![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/rtfKol5HRJKtKH-SXHIY2nvHAEriCnCHsoKBq_nI_ESaziHd1R7vlZpwKIq8Qr5ivZJz_b4oSEHLFFQK5MF-BhuzOzVS5fQCTMsbUD9ZCwGz8ToidwDbGS_r9GV4xHA4lnnD9VHc\")
Your lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. Here are Virginia Beach’s worst offenders.
\n","content":"\nYour lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. After all the time and money you’ve put into maintaining your grass, weeds spread effortlessly and quickly. They compete with existing vegetation for water and sunlight, produce a lot of seeds and become the dominant greenery. Invasive plants may look pretty at first, but they can turn your dream lawn into a nightmare. Here are some of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach yards and gardens and ways to deal with them.
\n\n\n\nThis oh-so-familiar shaggy, yellow flower is everywhere. We pick them as kids, blow the seeds into the wind and, spread that weed even more. The common dandelion (picture above) sprouts all year but mostly in the fall and spring. They’re everywhere — in fields, roadsides, and lawns — and they tolerate mowing. The leaves and stem have a milky sap. The yellow flowers turn into fluffy balls of white seeds that are taken by the wind, sometimes miles from where the original plant grows. There are several ways to keep your lawn from becoming a sea of yellow flowers. The best non-chemical method involves digging. But you have to make sure you get the entire root, or the weed will regenerate. You could try pouring an industrial-strength vinegar on the root, but beware. The vinegar will also kill any grass it touches. If you opt for a synthetic weed-killer, shop for a selective broadleaf herbicide that kills dandelions but not your turf. Better still, get in the habit of inspecting your lawn and at the first sign of the yellow flower, pull it up, before it has a chance to go to seed.
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant is known for its vigorous growth. The shiny, waxy leaves are dark green on top and lighter green underneath. Leaves are 2 to 4 inches long with small white hairs. It’s sometimes used for decorative purposes and makes an excellent indoor plant. But outside, it quickly overwhelms everything growing nearby. The ivy climbs buildings, the rootlets attaching to cracks and fissures, causing structural damage. It can even choke out tree growth by wrapping around the trunk and branches and limiting access to water and sun. There are two options for getting rid of English ivy. The first is chemical. This can be tough because the waxy ivy leaves are hard to penetrate. If you decide to go this route, glyphosate is the most effective. Because it kills everything it touches, be sure to spray only the ivy and none of the surrounding vegetation. The second method is manual. Cut small vines with pruning shears and pull them up by the roots. If you don’t remove the roots, the vines will keep growing back.
\n\n\n\nHairy bittercress is part of the mustard family and you CAN eat it. But you don’t want it taking over your yard. This is one of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach because it grows pretty much anywhere, but mostly in lawns and flower gardens. Once it’s in your lawn, it’s hard to get rid of. This annual invasive plant seeds over winter and starts growing at the end of the season, into early spring. The small plant can hide among your and disperse thousands of seeds, causing the weed to multiply quickly. The key to getting rid of hairy bittercress is to start early before seed pods form. Use a weeding tool to dig down and remove each plant. Like most weeds, pulling it usually leaves the roots behind. Do not add pulled plants to the compost pile, in case they manage to set seed.
\n\n\n\nThis weed flowers from June through November. It’s a broadleaf plant that shows up in turfgrass across the Southeastern United States. Virginia buttonweed flourishes in moist and wet areas and tolerates mowing. It can overtake your lawn, stealing vital nutrients from the grass. Overwatering and too much rain encourage its growth. Virginia buttonweed is difficult to get rid of because pieces of the plant or root continue to regenerate. One way to control it is to improve the health of your lawn with deep, infrequent watering. This gives the grass a fighting chance to compete with weeds. Pre-emergence herbicides are ineffective on Virginia buttonweed but some post-emergence weed control has proven effective.
\n\n\n\nHenbit produces a pretty purple flower, but unless you want those flowers across your entire yard, you’ve got to wage war on this weed. It’s a member of the mint family but doesn’t have the distinct minty smell. Henbit flowers in early spring and is self-pollinating. It spreads easily by seed and is part of a meadow ecosystem. But, unless you live in a meadow, you’ll want to remove it from your lawn and garden. The best control is to remove the entire plant before it sets seed. Hand weed and then mulch the garden beds. Be careful not to break the roots. A pre-emergent herbicide can prevent henbit from sprouting in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nKnowing how to spot and control thee weeds will keep the worst weeds in Virginia Beach off your lawn. Remember, maintaining a healthy, thick lawn is the best way to discourage these weeds from getting a foothold.
\n\n\n\nWant to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Virginia Beach? visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Portland is home to picturesque landscapes and beautiful hiking trails. If you’ve ever been to the Columbia River Gorge or Forest Park, you know exactly what we’re talking about. All this nature might inspire you to redesign your outdoor living space, but where do you start? We’ve listed 8 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Portland that […]
\n","content":"\nPortland is home to picturesque landscapes and beautiful hiking trails. If you’ve ever been to the Columbia River Gorge or Forest Park, you know exactly what we’re talking about. All this nature might inspire you to redesign your outdoor living space, but where do you start? We’ve listed 8 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Portland that will give you the inspiration and knowledge you need to kickstart the project.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nFAQ About Low-Maintenance Portland Landscaping
\n\n\n\nProfessional Landscaping Services in Portland
\n\n\n\nAdding mulch to your garden or flower bed is a great start to obtain a low-maintenance landscape. It is an easy task that doesn’t require a professional landscaper. Mulch smothers weeds before they grow, retains moisture in the soil, and helps make the garden design look more attractive. Depending on your plants and preferences, there are two types of mulch for you to choose from:
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The amount you spend on mulch depends on which type you choose. Wood mulch costs $3 to $5 per 2 cubic foot bag, while landscape gravel costs $4 to $30 per 0.5 cubic foot bag.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/red-elderberry.jpg\")
Red elderberry
Photo Credit: Leslie Seaton / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
For anyone who wishes for a low-maintenance landscape in the Pacific Northwest, native plants are absolutely essential. They could improve your yard’s visual appeal, and serve as a valuable food source for hummingbirds and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nNative plants will thrive in your area because they’ve already adapted to its dry spells, cold temperatures, and rainy days. Once established, they won’t need much fertilizing, watering, or other types of maintenance. With dozens of Portland native plants to choose from, here are a few suggestions:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Depending on the plant’s type and size, expect to pay between $600 and $3,000 per flower bed, $25 and $50 per shrub, $150 and $3,000 per tree.
\n\n\n\nWith native perennials, you won’t need to think about adding new plants year after year. As the name suggests, perennials live longer than 3 years and come back on their own after their dormant season. They can provide some shade, attract pollinators, and improve the air quality in and around your property. Overall, these low-maintenance plants will adorn your landscape for years to come.
\n\n\n\nBelow are some perennials that thrive in Portland’s USDA hardiness zones:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of perennials:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of perennials depends on the plant’s size and type. On average, a perennial plant will cost you between $10 and $100.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/xeriscaping.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tom Hilton / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nUnlike traditional gardens, a xeriscaped yard does not require much water. That is essentially the entire point, to use as little water as possible while still maintaining an aesthetically pleasing landscape. Xeriscapes typically feature drought-tolerant plants such as succulents, local boulders, and shade trees.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping is a terrific idea for a wildlife-friendly, low-water, and low-maintenance landscape. Some other examples include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of xeriscaping ranges from $5 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nAn automatic irrigation system can help your landscape through dry spells. With this technology, you can have a watered lawn without manually watering the grass yourself. It helps you save time and reduce your water bill. All you need to do is set the timer and the sprinklers will take care of the rest.
\n\n\n\nInstalling an irrigation system is not a cheap addition to your landscape. However, it is a worthy investment that could help increase your home’s resale value.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of automatic irrigation systems:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Hiring a landscape contractor to install an irrigation system will cost you between $2,000 and $4,900, depending on your yard size and the system you choose.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/bunchberry.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Gillfoto / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nGroundcovers are low-growing plants with lower maintenance requirements than traditional turfgrass. You will no longer have to mow, drain, or aerate your lawn. If you’re looking for a more traditional appearance, there are plain green groundcovers that will suit your preferences. On the other hand, you can go for the aesthetically pleasing groundcovers that add plenty of color to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nBelow are hardy and evergreen groundcovers for you to choose from:
\n\n\n\nBenefits of groundcovers:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of planting groundcovers ranges from $10 to $25 per square foot without installation.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are non-living elements that are naturally low-maintenance, such as decorative or practical structures. They require no pruning, watering, or fertilizing. Hardscape features can help define areas in your yard, and improve your outdoor space functions. However, they will still require the occasional cleaning, just to keep your landscape neat!
\n\n\n\nIf you lack the proper tools or experience to install such features, it is best to hire a professional landscaping company to get the job done. Here are some hardscaping examples:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost depends on the project size and the type of feature you choose. Expect to pay between $1,140 and $3,690 for a water feature, $2,600 and $7,300 for a patio, $2,100 and $6,000 for a pergola.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/artificial-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Soft Surfaces Ltd / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWith artificial grass, you won’t have to worry about your kids or pets causing any damage from running in the yard. It will provide you with a green lawn all year round with minimal maintenance work. You won’t have to worry about mowing, watering, or harsh weather conditions affecting the synthetic turf.
\n\n\n\nInstalling artificial grass may seem costly at first, with no benefits to the environment, but is ideal for homeowners looking for a maintenance-free lawn.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of artificial grass:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of hiring a pro to install artificial grass ranges from $5 to $20 per square foot on average.
\n\n\n\nOrnamental grasses are versatile, low-maintenance, and easy to grow. You can plant small ones in groups, while the larger types can stand alone as a focal point. Ornamental grasses are an attractive addition, and can be a major component of a low-maintenance landscaping design.
Below are some examples of drought-tolerant ornamental grasses:
● English blue fescue
● Porcupine grass
● Hameln fountain grass
There are dozens of plants that thrive in Oregon, but not all of them are native to this part of Willamette Valley. There are several wildflowers, shrubs, conifers, or herbaceous perennials you can plant in your backyard.
We’ve the done the research and come up with these Portland native plants for you to consider:
● Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
● Western juniper (Juniperus occidentalis)
● Oregon Grape Holly (Mahonia aquifolium)
● Bitter Cherry (Prunus emarginata)
● Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea)
● Saskatoon Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
● Red Alder (Alnus rubra)
● Oregon White Oak (Quercus garryana)
● Bigleaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum)
● Vine Maple (Acer circinatum)
Succulents are naturally drought-tolerant, and you almost never have to worry about watering them. Even a minor rainfall will provide these plants with sufficient water to survive. Additionally, showy succulents add plenty of color and boost your garden’s visual appeal.
You can plant any of these sedum succulents in your front or backyard: Spathulifolium, dasyphylum, and divergens.
Designing a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape can seem like a daunting task, but it gets easier once you break it down to one small project at a time.
\n\n\n\nYou can start by adding mulch, which is an easy-to-do task that doesn’t require a professional gardener. Next you may move on to native, drought-tolerant plants that are a good fit to your lawn and Portland’s hardiness zone. You can keep the momentum going and install non-living elements such as pergolas or concrete pavers. These features can spruce up your backyard without the need for regular upkeep.
\n\n\n\nHowever, no outdoor living space can remain functional without the occasional maintenance. If you need help with outdoor chores, such as mowing, trimming, and edging, hire a lawn care pro near you to check off your to-do list.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Ian Poellet / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
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\n","content":"\nYour lawn and landscape create the frame for your picture-perfect home. It’s the first thing people see when they drive up to your house, so you want the grass to be greener and neat and trim on your side of the fence. Fortunately, Atlanta’s climate makes it easy to grow a lush, green lawn. We get nearly 50 inches of rainfall a year, and our temperatures range between 34 and 90 degrees. The mercury rarely drops below freezing, so Atlanta lawns stay green longer than most. Here is your quickstart guide to lawn care in Atlanta.
\n\n\n\nThe fluctuating seasons puts Atlanta in a transitional zone, meaning both warm-season and cool-season grasses will thrive. We recommend a mixture of both. Choosing the right grass type is the first step toward a healthy, well-manicured lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZHNuWfARMcUhgkWrY4Aw9eDm29nUm1hU7cp8NZWN--bm0UNgjuF-0WYWHWLaVRNvfAKhP8XqrSMW9eBR20qT5urgtEMFglHhmmbxgwqQv4_Qx_X_tqPyaAzeW4XF7tMFR7jLQUXZ\")
This warm-season grass stands up well to heavy foot traffic, drought and cold. It’s the most common type of grass for Atlanta lawns, sports fields, and golf courses. Bermudagrass will grow well when planted in sunny areas with high humidity but tends to wilt in the shade.
\n\n\n\nSince it grows quickly, you may have to mow your lawn twice a week during the summer. We recommend mowing this grass to a height of 1 to 1½ inches and giving it 1½ inches of water a week. You may also want to overseed it with tall fescue to add some green color during the winter when Bermudagrass goes dormant.
\n\n\n\nA cool-season grass, this one is a favorite for those of you who love walking barefoot on the lawn. This turf works well by itself or blended with other types such as Bermuda. It resists heat and drought but may need more watering than warm-season varieties.
\n\n\n\nIt does best when planted in shady areas where it will need little maintenance. It doesn’t grow very fast, so it only needs mowing every nine days at a height of 2 to 3 inches. It doesn’t bounce back as quickly as Bermudagrass, so it may need reseeding more often.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass is another low maintenance sod. It doesn’t need much fertilizer and will tolerate some shade. It can stand up to heat, but not drought and may need frequent watering during dry periods. It will remain green all winter, but will not survive repeated frosts.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass grows slowly, so you can get away with mowing once every two weeks to a height on 1½ to 2 inches. You will have to dethatch your lawn in the fall before reseeding. Be careful about which grass types you use for overseeding. Ryegrass will compete with the existing turf, eventually killing the centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/yQ6euhlqlmS_0wDZLjr_dPtUITtJMUl3pTbmDGCDYp8M7hAVgG-9bOSaTL0heiE6ByOLiFFxUmnV4OUUUAXAq5HuiPMC5bYln0r-xfYKBXDPl2cAOVhVngoqnCZeY2Wi4DV1cy6G\")
This tough warm-season turf can stand up to heat and tolerate the cold. It doesn’t need much maintenance and handles pets and kids with ease. Although it’s drought-resistant, Zoysia needs more water during the summer than other warm-season grasses. Its fine texture also makes it perfect for running barefoot across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nZoysia will cover your yard with a dense carpet of grass. This quality means you’ll have to aerate and dethatch in the spring. Mow to a height of 1 to 1 ½ inches to keep it green and weed-free all summer.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third of the height of your grass. If your grass is too short, it is vulnerable to pests and lawn diseases. Most turfs need a weekly mow until late fall when the growth slows down or stops. Consider varying the pattern and direction each time you mow. Otherwise, your grass blades will lean in one direction, making your lawn look unbalanced. After mowing, leave the clippings behind. They will decompose and fertilize your lawn. If you hire a lawn service professional, make sure to remind this person.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sPCP3-iv3M0DLJ1oXkzLccWVSA6S0VCdAAOsf0dCvpOTI1gf4eiHorPsx2nlKwrNbyYDpSJO7z_IiHHBLXOiINZNGEX9MaL1kL_nitlA6Tn15UNKwJiyhhgkQ6v96yUpf2x5tMQV\")
Dull mower blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it. As a result, your lawn will turn brown. With sharp mower blades, you only need to pass over your lawn once instead of several times to get the job done. Most hardware stores can sharpen them for you, or you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Just make sure you disconnect the spark plugs first.
\n\n\n\nYou can adjust the cutting height by raising or lowering the mower’s wheel. Look on the side of your lawnmower and find a knob or lever that adjusts the height for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will start to look tired and worn out after a summer of use. By raking up all debris and thatch and distributing seed, you can replenish some of those bare patches over the fall and winter. A thinning lawn is an invitation for weeds and pests. You can spread seed over the smaller areas by hand, or rent a seed spreader for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe heavy foot traffic over the summer has likely compacted your soil. Poking tiny holes in the lawn, or aerating, gives the grass a chance to take in more moisture and nutrients. It also raises the lawn’s resistance to diseases and pests. Do this in the fall, just before you add fertilizer. Fertilizing the lawn at the end of September will help it make it through the cold winter. Before deciding which fertilizer to use, find out what your lawn needs. You can get a home soil test kit at your local home improvement store. If you prefer, you can mail a sample the extension office at the University of Georgia, and they’ll test the soil for you and recommend a fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIn spite of all the rain that blesses Atlanta, your lawn may need a little more moisture before it goes dormant over the winter. Keep your sprinkler ready until the first frost. A few good soakings will give the roots of the grass the strength it needs to make it through the winter. You also want to make sure the new seeds and fertilizer work their way into the soil. If you want to learn more about local watering restrictions, visit Wikilawn’s Atlanta city page.
As hurricane season approaches, homeowners begin to prepare their homes for potential damage. While many focus on strengthening their home’s structure, they may overlook the importance of hurricane-resistant landscaping. A landscape that’s well-designed will not only add beauty to your home but also provide protection from wind and water damage during a hurricane. By using […]
\n","content":"\nAs hurricane season approaches, homeowners begin to prepare their homes for potential damage. While many focus on strengthening their home’s structure, they may overlook the importance of hurricane-resistant landscaping. A landscape that’s well-designed will not only add beauty to your home but also provide protection from wind and water damage during a hurricane.
\n\n\n\nBy using hurricane-resistant plants, designing windbreaks, and implementing proper maintenance, your landscaping can help reduce the risk of damage to your property. Here are 12 hurricane-resistant landscaping ideas for St. Augustine to help you prepare for the upcoming hurricane season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can follow these suggestions to make your landscape aesthetically pleasing and capable of enduring the turbulent winds and heavy rainfall that come with the hurricane season:
\n\n\n\nIf your property is situated on the waterfront, it is imperative to construct a seawall. The purpose of seawalls is to shield your home against the unrelenting pummeling of waves and avert erosion. Plus, having a seawall can help you avoid floods during storm surges.
\n\n\n\nWhen selecting a seawall for your property, you must consider various aspects, like the material to use and the associated cost. Opt for a seawall material that can endure the forces of the Atlantic Ocean, such as the following:
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a seawall, the shoreline will progressively erode. This, in turn, can inflict substantial damage to your waterfront property. Apart from helping you prevent flooding of your property during storms, seawalls can save you a considerable amount of money in terms of repairs. Hence, it’s crucial not to use materials that decay or corrode over time.
\n\n\n\nMaterials to avoid:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of building a seawall will depend on the material chosen, with costs varying between $113 to $770 per linear foot. But if you leave your property unprotected, the cost of restoring water damage can be significantly higher.
\n\n\n\nWhen preparing for a hurricane, homeowners often neglect backyard fences. Nevertheless, choosing the right type of fence appropriate for your home can have a significant impact. Remember to prioritize durability.
\n\n\n\nBenefits of hurricane-resistant fencing:
\n\n\n\nYou might think that a solid privacy fence is most effective because it can obstruct the wind. However, the absence of air circulation can cause it to give way under the force of high winds. Wooden fences, even the most robust, can be toppled over easily if there are no gaps large enough to permit the wind to flow through.
\n\n\n\nTypes of fencing to avoid:
\n\n\n\nAvoid spending a lot of money on fence replacements and repairs after a storm by investing in a fence that can resist hurricanes. Choose fences that have slats. The following are types of fencing that enable wind to move through with minimal obstruction:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Fence installation costs fluctuate depending on the material you choose, with the cost usually ranging from $8 to $46 per linear foot. Chain-link fences are typically priced between $12 and $33 per linear foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/palm-trees-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shadowmeld Photography / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nHaving a hurricane-resistant landscape with wind-resistant trees can be extremely helpful when a hurricane passes through. These types of trees have robust and deep roots, a lower center of gravity, and sturdy trunks, reducing the probability of being uprooted by high-speed winds. This decreases the likelihood of your trees becoming a danger to your property or community.
\n\n\n\nEach tree species has unique characteristics, and some are more susceptible to wind damage than others. Here are some of the most exceptional tree species with excellent wind resistance:
\n\n\n\nAvoid planting certain trees in areas prone to hurricane winds, as they are more susceptible to wind damage. The University of Florida IFAS Extension states that the following trees should be avoided in hurricane-prone regions like St. Augustine:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of professional tree planting services can vary significantly, ranging from $22 to $3,300. The total cost will be influenced by several factors, including the type of tree species, as well as its age and size. Typically, the expenses will be lower for small saplings than for larger, more mature trees.
\n\n\n\nFor homeowners who want to maintain a healthy lawn, living near the coast presents a unique challenge due to salty coastal air that can damage plants not suited for the environment. However, choosing the right plants can help. You should select native and salt-tolerant plants that can adapt to local environmental conditions and thrive in areas with high salt content in the soil and air.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners in St. Augustine prefer native plants because they have already evolved to survive in the specific climate and soil of the region. In addition, salt-tolerant plants can withstand high levels of salt water, making them perfect for coastal gardens.
\n\n\n\nOne of the key benefits of choosing salt-tolerant and native plants is that they require less maintenance and watering, which can save time and money. They also lessen the need for pesticides, fertilizers, and other environmentally harmful chemicals.
\n\n\n\nThe University of Florida IFAS extension recommends several popular native and salt-tolerant plants for coastal landscapes, including:
\n\n\n\nGrasses:
\n\n\n\nGroundcovers and flowers:
\n\n\n\nTrees and shrubs:
\n\n\n\nVines:
\n\n\n\nThese plants not only make your coastal landscape beautiful, but they also help support local ecosystems.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of planting a tree can range from a budget-friendly $90 to a more expensive $3,212. Similarly, planting a flower bed can cost anywhere from $861 to $3,100, depending on factors such as the size of the bed and the type of flowers you choose.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tree-Placement.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matthew Paul Argall / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCareful consideration of tree placements is crucial to prevent them from causing property damage during a storm. While trees help enhance a property’s curb appeal and provide shade, you must keep them away from structures such as buildings and power lines.
\n\n\n\nTo determine where to plant your trees, consider their size at maturity and their root systems. A tree planted too close to a home or power line may cause property damage or power outages during a storm.
\n\n\n\nKeeping trees away from structures can bring many benefits. It can reduce the risk of property damage during a storm, prevent power outages caused by falling or swaying trees, and reduce maintenance costs. Planting trees too close to power lines or your home may require more frequent pruning and maintenance, which can be time-consuming and expensive.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure safe and effective tree placement, follow these tips:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The typical cost of tree removal services ranges from $347 to $1,117 per tree. For transplanting trees, it can cost anywhere between $158 and $880.
\n\n\n\nTrees can provide functional and aesthetic benefits when planted strategically. Planting trees in clusters of five or more can improve their resilience to high winds by over 10%, making them more effective in safeguarding your property during hurricane season. Additionally, grouping five trees with diverse appearances and heights can further enhance your property’s visual appeal.
\n\n\n\nHowever, you should avoid planting trees in a straight line. The University of Florida recommends a natural and unforced arrangement for planting trees – each tree must be within 10 feet of the other. This approach can create a strong and sustainable windbreak.
\n\n\n\nBy planting trees in groups, you can enjoy many benefits beyond just the beauty they bring to your lawn. Here are a few advantages of grouping trees:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Tree prices vary greatly depending on species and size, but the usual costs range from $150 to $1,850. To lower the cost per tree or sapling, you can purchase them in bulk. Plus, installing several trees will be less expensive per tree than having a single tree installed, so consider this when planning your landscape.
\n\n\n\nCreating a backyard buffer is a great way of preventing flooding and erosion caused by hurricanes while also creating a beautiful natural environment in your backyard.
\n\n\n\nA backyard buffer or riparian buffer is made up of trees, shrubs, flowers, and mulch that work together to absorb and slow down wind and water. By preventing the full force of the storm from reaching your home, the buffer can protect your property from damage and protect waterways from overheating.
\n\n\n\nOnce established, your backyard buffer can provide many benefits, including:
\n\n\n\nTo create a backyard buffer, choose native plants that can withstand heavy rains and high winds, such as Southern live oak and bald cypress. They also have strong roots that help keep the soil in place and prevent erosion. Additionally, you can use low-maintenance shrubs like firebush and wax myrtle to create a buffer zone around your home.
\n\n\n\nWhen installing your backyard buffer, remember to consult with garden centers, local nurseries, or environmental organizations for expert advice on creating a buffer suited for St. Augustine.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: There are many options for selecting plants, and prices will vary depending on the type of plant. For example, small native perennials are generally less expensive and can cost anywhere from $4 to $25 each. On the other hand, planting a tree can cost much higher, ranging from $22 to $3,300, depending on the tree species, size, and age.
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/tree-grass-light-plant-field-lawn-1359857-pxhere.com-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nHurricane season can wreak havoc on your garden beds, so you should prepare them accordingly. Mulch is an essential part of maintaining a healthy garden, but remember to select the right kind to prevent damage during high winds.
\n\n\n\nOrganic, soft mulches are highly recommended for areas like St. Augustine that experience high winds. During a storm, hard and heavy mulches can become dangerous projectiles, causing damage to your property and neighboring homes.
\n\n\n\nExamples of organic, soft mulch:
\n\n\n\nUnlike hard mulches, such as pebbles, pea gravel, stones, and river rock, organic mulches remain in place better. Plus, they offer numerous benefits to plants, like providing insulation to plant roots, suppressing weed growth, and retaining moisture in the soil.
\n\n\n\nWhen selecting the type of soft mulch, avoid using any materials that may harbor disease or pests. Freshly cut grass clippings should be avoided since they can generate heat and attract harmful organisms. Also, avoid using straw or hay as they may contain weed seeds that will proliferate in your garden beds.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: On average, aged wood chips are priced at approximately $70 per cubic yard, while shredded bark mulch costs around $65 per cubic yard. Alternatively, you can get fresh wood chips for free from a certified arborist or a local tree recycling center. Or you can make your own mulch by composting leaves, providing a nutrient-rich material for your garden beds.
\n\n\n\nTo protect your yard from the effects of extreme weather, you should prioritize regular maintenance. This applies not just to your garden and lawn but also to your trees.
\n\n\n\nInspecting your existing trees regularly is an important part of maintaining a healthy and resilient landscape, particularly in the months leading up to hurricane season. Damaged or diseased trees can pose a significant threat to your property and safety during extreme weather events.
\n\n\n\nDuring inspections, look for signs of damage or disease, such as yellowing leaves, dead branches, and cracks in the trunk. If you leave dying or weakened trees untouched, even mild winds can cause them to fall. So if you want to avoid more problems later on, you should address these issues immediately.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure you identify all hazardous trees on your property, consider hiring a certified arborist to inspect them. These professionals can identify hazardous trees in your yard, and you can work together to develop an effective plan for safely removing them.
\n\n\n\nTo avoid property damage caused by falling branches during a storm, it’s important to take preventive measures in your landscape. Strong winds can easily snap branches, creating a potential hazard for your property. A seemingly harmless long branch hanging over your roof could cause significant damage if it’s not removed in time.
\n\n\n\nTo prevent such scenarios, be sure to prune and trim any weak or overgrown branches on your existing trees. Regular maintenance will ensure your plants are healthy and strong, and won’t succumb to high winds during a storm. If you don’t want a broken branch to smash through a window, damage your car or cause injury, you should keep your trees in good shape.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your property safe during high winds requires more than just tree maintenance. You also should keep your lawn and garden well-maintained by regularly mowing, weeding, and removing debris. This will prevent any hazards from flying around during storms. Regularly fertilizing your lawn and garden can help ensure that your plants remain strong and healthy, and able to withstand extreme weather conditions.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Bush trimming can range from $45 to $75 per hour or $7 to $24 per bush, depending on the type of bush and the amount of work needed. Hedge trimming can cost between $56 and $85 per hour, while tree trimming costs can range from $227 to $708, depending on the size and complexity of the job.
\n\n\n\n![\"storm](\"https://lawnlove.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/rsz_6447392233_f7b09919fa_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fried Dough / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nTo prevent potential damage caused by rain, you should take precautions to ensure the proper flow of stormwater. This includes:
\n\n\n\nStanding water or puddling can be a risk to your property and weaken roots, making trees more susceptible to damage during storms. A French drain is an effective solution to prevent water from pooling in your yard. This involves installing a drainpipe that redirects water away from your home and ensures proper drainage.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Be prepared to spend anywhere from $154 to $1,059 to have your yard cleaned up. If you’ll be having a French drain installed, it can cost from $500 for a small, simple project to $18,000 for a larger or more complex installation.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to clearing debris, trimming trees, and installing drainage systems, another way of preparing your yard for an impending storm is to provide extra protection for your plants. This can be achieved by wrapping trees and large plants with burlap, which will help to reduce the impact of strong winds.
\n\n\n\nFor smaller plants, using a floating row cover and securing it to the ground with garden stakes is a good option. Although these covers may not withstand severe hurricanes, they can still provide protection and lessen the amount of damage.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Burlap comes in different sizes and prices, ranging from $7 to $180 per roll. On the other hand, floating row covers have a cost of $11 to $240 per cover, depending on their size and type.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure your lawn and plants recover quickly after a hurricane, you should be mindful of the amount of water they receive. While automatic sprinklers can be convenient during the year, they can cause further damage during a storm. Excessive water can saturate your lawn, and the plants may struggle to recover from it.
\n\n\n\nYou should turn off your water supply entirely to prevent damage from burst pipes during a storm. Once the hurricane has passed, assess the damage and adjust the watering schedule accordingly to give your plants the time they need to recover.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: You don’t have to spend a dime. In fact, it can help lower your monthly water bill.
\n\n\n\nEven though St. Augustine is not as susceptible to hurricane damage as other cities, you must take the necessary precautions and be prepared before hurricane season arrives. Keeping yourself updated with weather forecasts and following storm warnings can help you minimize potential damage to your home and ensure your family’s safety.
\n\n\n\nDo the following to prepare for a hurricane:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for hurricane-resistant grass options, Zoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass are the best grass types for you.
Zoysiagrass is a warm-season turfgrass that is highly resistant to strong winds and requires minimal maintenance. Additionally, it’s an excellent choice for homes located along the First Coast due to its salt tolerance.
On the other hand, the warm-season St. Augustinegrass is native to coastal areas. It’s known for its resilience in humid and hot weather conditions, heavy foot traffic, and rough weather conditions. It’s also salt-tolerant and can be an excellent option for homeowners looking for hurricane-resistant grasses.
The Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean offer a conducive environment for hurricanes to develop and strengthen, especially during the peak of the hurricane season, which falls between mid-August and late October. But hurricane season usually begins June 1 and lasts until Nov. 30.
Like Jacksonville, St. Augustine is highly susceptible to hurricanes because of its location along the East Coast. While hurricanes can strike this area at any time, the frequency of these storms varies from year to year.
According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), St. Augustine has been affected by tropical storms or hurricanes approximately every two to three years over the past century. Note, though, that this is not a fixed pattern, and some years may see more or fewer storms. You must always remain vigilant and prepared for the potential impact of these powerful storms.
As St. Augustine homeowners know all too well, hurricanes are an ever-present threat during the storm season. However, taking proactive steps to prepare for hurricanes can go a long way.
\n\n\n\nOne key aspect of hurricane preparedness is creating hurricane-resistant landscaping. By selecting the right plants, installing barriers and drainage systems, and securing loose items in your yard, you can help minimize damage to your home and ensure your family’s safety.
Don’t wait until the next storm is on the horizon to take action. Reach out to a St. Augustine landscaping professional today and create a beautiful and resilient landscape that can withstand even the toughest storms.
Main Image Credit: Wallpaperflare
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\n","content":"\nA maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into it even longer than homeowners in cooler climates. But it’s not complicated! Here are some tips to lawn mowing and maintenance in DFW.
\n\n\n\nThe key here is not to “scalp” your grass, meaning cut it too short. Scalping lets precious water evaporate more quickly in the Texas heat. It also stresses your grass, leaving it vulnerable to diseases and pests.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn is most likely a warm-season variety like St. Augustine, Zoysia grass, buffalo grass or Bermudagrass. Your proper grass length depends on the variety you have. Experts recommend St. Augustine be cut 2 to 2.5 inches tall. The recommended height for common Bermuda is 1.25 to 1.5 inches tall. Zoysias should be between 2 to 3 inches tall, and buffalograss is the longest, with a recommended height of 3 to 4 inches. Look to mow the lawn about once a week during the hot season. Pro tip: mow in a different direction each time. This helps the blades of the grass stand up straight and prevent ruts. The grass will most likely be dormant from about November to early March.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/vHG1MducY0LBd579jO3HRCClmLbPu7eobddVBdtvyq6LejozJUEYiFyff7lSvOMfM_exP_OHNp5DTONuAVImxUt4WWvqa13zi45JPLA3-I6Kwt2i7W6nJCa-bQkGcv9viKxaH9ig\")
Don’t bag those clippings. The clippings add vital nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. As long as you mow at the proper height, the clippings will break down quickly.
\n\n\n\nSharpen the blades, change the oil and spark plugs once a year. Dull blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it, leaving it susceptible to disease and pests.
\n\n\n\nSome make a ritual out of applying weed and feed to their lawns every Super Bowl Sunday in February. This counts as “early spring” in Texas, and the grass is beginning to green up. That’s when it needs feeding. The rule of thumb is generally between February and April. This is also the time to stop weeds in their tracks — before they ever get a firm root in your yard. You can also find weed and feed mixtures that contain fire ant killer, to keep the nasty little insects from digging up mounds of dirt in your lawn and biting you.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/YptMC0oZEqtKFy16WxPQfFmKZxvkrn2ezC8E6g2hLw1UorINVbEqlEWsbuFmtq1VRcm8Lj7A5etV3aw4Rx0lq8Imaxp-LHNfyA8g9SNKFhvVOW-JWV9udULXgXxH7RSKY-hpAHP3\")
Your lawn needs a good long drink every five to ten days, generally. Keep that in mind before you overwater the grass. Also, your city probably has ordinances or recommendations on what days you can water and what time. Use your sprinkler two times a week, and don’t water between 10 am and 6 pm. In most cases, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and hand watering are allowed any day of the week. Ideally, you water early in the morning — giving your grass a good drink of water, but allowing the droplets on the blades to evaporate over the daytime hours. This lowers your lawn’s risk of fungus problems.
\n\n\n\nThe key to a lush, green lawn in north Texas is consistency over the course of the long, hot growing season. If you begin tending to it on a regular basis when it first begins to green, and maintain it through the triple-digit temperatures of the summer, and into the fall, it will reward you with beautiful, emerald green grass.
\n\n\n\nDo you want to know more about what plants to grow in DFW? Visit our Dallas, TX lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock is unique. The metropolitan city experiences all four seasons. Centrally located, Little Rock has short but cold winters, leaving you more springtime than the average homeowner. Use this extra time to implement our 9 spring lawn care tips to help prepare your yard for backyard parties, barbecues, and the humid Arkansas summer. In […]
\n","content":"\nLittle Rock is unique. The metropolitan city experiences all four seasons. Centrally located, Little Rock has short but cold winters, leaving you more springtime than the average homeowner. Use this extra time to implement our 9 spring lawn care tips to help prepare your yard for backyard parties, barbecues, and the humid Arkansas summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nSpring is all about new beginnings. It is a transformative time, and the springs in Little Rock are warm and extremely wet. From March to May, Arkansans tend to their warm-season grasses hoping to encourage fresh growth before the heat and humidity take over in June.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care in Arkansas is more than watering and mowing. As your yard goes through its green-up, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots that need some TLC. With the proper spring maintenance plan, you will set your yard up for success.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Mow more is probably the last thing you want to hear. It is tempting to mow our lawns short to make less work for ourselves. Unfortunately, for most grass types, cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury and weeds, and taller grass blades develop deeper roots.
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the spring. The city’s short winters give way to prolonged wet springs. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nBegin mowing your lawn when it turns green, typically beginning in April or May. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in spring, and never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nAlways aim to cut less, more often. You should mow every five to seven days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nUnlike centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass go dormant, turning brown, in the winter. Before the spring green-up, you can mow your lawn to remove dead leaf blades and reduce shading of fresh growth and increase soil temperatures.
\n\n\n\nBegin mowing normally when your lawn turns green in April or May, following the recommended height for your grass type. Mow often, every five to seven days, and never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf blade. Like other warm-season varieties, leave clippings on the lawn to act as fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 2.5 inches |
![\"Small](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/water-sprinkler.jpg\")
Lawns seldom need irrigating thanks to the rainy Little Rock springs, and this applies to all turfgrass varieties unless your lawn is brand new. If hot, dry, or windy conditions occur for an extended period, begin a watering regimen in April or May, aiming for 1 inch of water per week for all varieties.
\n\n\n\nIf you notice a dark blue-gray color, foot-printing, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves, your lawn needs water no matter what variety it is.
\n\n\n\nThe humid conditions in Arkansas create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi. Maintain a healthy lawn with routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization schedules, and diseases won’t stand a chance. Some of the most common diseases affecting Arkansas turfgrasses are large patch, gray leaf spot, dollar spot, and spring dead spot.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that affects St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. Resist the urge to reach for a fungicide and call it a day. The most effective method to control and prevent large patch is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nGrey leaf spot is another turfgrass fungus affecting St. Augustinegrass in Little Rock. Watch for grass that appears yellow, mottled, or scorched. Treat gray leaf spot with proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nReduce or remove thatch and improve air circulation. Do not apply post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active and avoid fertilization. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects bermudagrass. It is extremely common in the Southeast and is caused by a fungus living in Arkansas soils. Keep an eye out for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nTreat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer. Additionally, minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage and watering deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nSpring dead spot is another soil-dwelling fungus affecting bermudagrass in the Southeast. Watch for circular patches of dead grass ranging in diameter from 6 inches to several feet. The easiest way to spot spring dead spot is to monitor your lawn during its active green-up phase. Areas affected by spring dead spot will not go through the green-up process.
\n\n\n\nTreat spring dead spot by removing thatch and aggressively aerating affected areas to relieve soil compaction. The dense, clay soils in Little Rock are prone to soil compaction, making spring dead spot incredibly common.
\n\n\n\n![\"Gloves,](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Little Rock’s wet spring climate creates the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds love to invade your lawn, signifying an underlying problem with its health. They thrive in low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf.
\n\n\n\nThe stealthy plant ninjas steal vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and plants while simultaneously spreading pests and diseases. You can stop weeds in their tracks and minimize the number that pops up come summer using pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination.
\n\n\n\nAlways wait three weeks after your grass has gone through its green-up. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early March to all turfgrass varieties to control crabgrass.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds typically become a nuisance during Little Rock summers. However, post-emergent herbicides target broadleaf weeds you can see, disrupting their growth, no matter the season. Never apply over two applications per year and always wait 30 days between applications.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common broadleaf weeds in Little Rock you might find in the spring:
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock springs are traditionally very wet, which deters most turfgrass pests. In the unlikely event of a dry spring, chinch bug infestation in St. Augustinegrass may occur. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nSoil provides nutrients for your grass to thrive. Unfortunately, Little Rock soils are notoriously nutrient deficient, requiring fertilization and other nutrient applications. Arkansas homeowners can send in a soil sample for free soil testing.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a core sample to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances, nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\nClay soils dominate in Central Arkansas. It is dense, compact, and nutrientless. Aeration is a common lawn method to combat compacted soil and introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns. There are two types of common aeration, core aeration and spike aeration. Aerate your lawn in late May or early June if you notice compacted soil.
\n\n\n\nAeration creates holes in the soil so it can breathe. A core aerator punches into the ground, removing plugs of soil to create small holes. Unfortunately, this method leaves the leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, which remain an eye sore until Mother Nature breaks them down.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for clay soils. These aerators do a better job of breaking through compacted soil to improve nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aeration is like core aeration, but less effective on severely compacted soils. Spike aerators rotate to punch small holes in the ground. Unlike core aeration, this method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no loss of aesthetic appeal.
\n\n\n\nNo one wants a thin and patchy lawn. The rainy spring conditions in Little Rock make it the prime time to seed or replant your lawn and encourage fresh growth.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and centipedegrass are low-maintenance cultivars that respond well to overseeding. Overseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Arkansas lawn in March, April, or May at least two months after applying a pre-emergent herbicide. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet for bermudagrass and centipedegrass varieties.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass do not respond to overseeding. Instead, plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in April or May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart. Water well daily and be sure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide that does not affect root growth to keep crabgrass at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Fertilizing.jpg\")
Fertilizer promotes healthy growth, but be careful, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape. The best time to apply fertilizer is after your lawn has gone through its green-up and before the Arkansas summer heat sets in. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your variety of turfgrass and your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn three weeks after it turns green, typically in late May. Apply 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.
\n\n\n\nUnlike other warm-season turfgrass, centipedegrass does not need nitrogen. Instead, apply iron three weeks after your lawn has turned green in May if you notice a yellow appearance.
\n\n\n\nYes. Fresh grass seed or sod plugs require more water than just the average spring rainfall in Little Rock. Aim to water your grass seed three times a day for the first week. During the second week, water two times per day, and in the third week, water once per day if it does not rain.
Organic mulch provides moisture retention and nutrients for your plants. Experts recommend laying new mulch on top of your existing mulch annually in the spring after the last frost. In Little Rock, lay a new layer of mulch anytime from March to May.
Warm-season grasses like the varieties in Little Rock take longer to germinate than cool-season grasses. It can take two months for your new lawn to grow long enough to require mowing and a full year before it is matured and dense.
Wet spring weather creates lush green backdrops for Little Rock homeowners. With the proper spring lawn care schedule, your yard can experience its green-up and glow-up in time for the humid summer months to set in.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, spring isn’t the only busy time for yard-loving Arkansans. Thanks to Little Rock’s four seasons, be sure to check out our fall lawn care checklist to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term lawn care maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and need help setting your landscape off on the right foot, contact a Little Rock lawn care pro to help you establish deep roots so your lawn can survive the humid summer.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Adam Bartlett / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Little Rock, AR","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1789c/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg","srcSet":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/107df/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 320w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/293e9/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 500w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/f2cbb/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 800w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1789c/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 960w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/c26c2/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1dd6e/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/67b76/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 320w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/8df11/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 500w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/98a65/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 800w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1dd6e/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 960w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/3cc96/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Little Rock, AR | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 9 valuable tips for maintaining a lush spring lawn in Little Rock and prepare your grass for the humid Arkansas summers."}}},{"node":{"id":"0a80aabf-c968-5b55-b67c-0f3577ed7703","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-baltimore","path":"/lawn-care/md/baltimore/spring-lawn-care-tips-baltimore/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Stuart Kushner is a writer and aspiring product designer based in New York City. When he isn’t doing either, Stuart enjoys heavy metal music, exercise, and trying new food and drinks.","name":"Stuart Kushner","id":"82e51515-0cd6-5b19-a026-570eb408a24e","path":"/author/stuart-kushner/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/159400686ba92aeb1f5d3503e0246fc1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"d65d5975-f3bf-56a0-86b3-804de72f0ba7","name":"Baltimore","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/md/baltimore/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"2a5e33f9-ad47-575e-b414-2fa0c9049fd1","name":"Maryland","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/md/"}],"date":"May 15th, 2023","excerpt":"Spring has sprung, and for Baltimore homeowners that means a return to yard work. Your lawn needs all the help it can get to recover from the long, wet winter, and knowing how to care for your lawn in Baltimore will provide the foundation it needs to thrive all year long. These nine spring lawn […]
\n","content":"\nSpring has sprung, and for Baltimore homeowners that means a return to yard work. Your lawn needs all the help it can get to recover from the long, wet winter, and knowing how to care for your lawn in Baltimore will provide the foundation it needs to thrive all year long. These nine spring lawn care tips will set you up well for the warm-weather months ahead.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nTo ensure your lawn absorbs the sunlight, air, water, and nutrients it needs, you have to clear away any leaves, trash, limbs, and debris on your lawn. Yard trash acts like a blanket on your lawn that blocks sun and water from penetrating to grass roots and the soil. Additionally, take out any plants that died over the winter.
\n\n\n\nWith warmer months comes yard care, so make sure you get your lawn gear back in shape. Here is a short checklist of tasks to do:
\n\n\n\n✓ Change your lawn mower’s oil, and drain and refill its gas tank.
\n\n\n\n✓ Tighten any loose screws.
\n\n\n\n✓ Sharpen its blades.
\n\n\n\n✓ Ensure that your lawn mower and line trimmer work as well.
\n\n\n\nBy checking these tasks off your list, you’ll minimize the chance of any unexpected problems occurring and adding more to your plate.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nTo prevent runoff, fertilizer should only be applied when the grass begins to grow. Apply fertilizer twice, once in early spring and once in late spring.
\n\n\n\nHow to fertilize your lawn: Never apply fertilizer by hand. Instead, use a drop or rotary spreader to apply it evenly to your lawn. Always fertilize 10 to 15 feet away from waterways. Spread half the fertilizer in a north-south direction and the other half in an east-west direction.
\n\n\n\nGive your lawn a quick cut before you start mowing so you understand what shape your lawn is in and can put a mowing schedule together. Once you start mowing, follow these rules:
\n\n\n\nDon’t know how tall you should mow your grass? The following table will give you the recommended mowing heights.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Tall Fescue | 2.5 to 3.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 2.5 to 3.5 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 2.5 to 3.5 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1.5 to 2 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1.5 to 2 inches |
Watering your lawn might seem like another chore you must do, but it’s a bit more complex than you’d expect.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t want to water the lawn until the grass grows, as the soil is still moist from winter. Also, you don’t want to overwater your lawn, as it would cause pests, fungi, and excessive thatch to form. Underwatering your lawn will starve it and dry it out.
\n\n\n\nWhen watering, follow these tips:
\n\n\n\n![\"brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/31418522411_f5e1d31798_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kris Lord / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFew things destroy a nice lawn as surely as diseases. They can make it look patchy and, if left unchecked, can spread and leave you with vast expanses of bare ground.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to deal with disease is prevention. But if disease does rear its head, you should also know how to diagnose it and treat it.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few of the most common ones:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat red thread:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat snow mold:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch:
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides are applied twice: once in both early spring and late spring. If you experience crabgrass, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in mid-March through mid-April. Apply post-emergent herbicides in early summer and fall to control any weeds that have sprouted.
Fall is the best time to overseed your lawn, preferably 45 days before the first frost.
Yes, test your soil in either fall or spring, giving you enough time to assemble a lawn care plan based on your results. Testing your soil once every three years is recommended.
Making your lawn as beautiful as the flowers blooming in spring is entirely doable, but it takes effort.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have the time or energy to do the work, call one of our lawn care pros, and we’ll happily take over, giving you the time to enjoy your city. Perhaps a Ravens or Orioles game?
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Lawn, Baltimore / Pxhere
\n","title":"Spring Lawn Care Tips for Baltimore, Md","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/1789c/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/107df/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/293e9/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/f2cbb/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/1789c/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/c26c2/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/1dd6e/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/67b76/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp 320w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/8df11/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp 500w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/98a65/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp 800w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/1dd6e/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp 960w,\n/static/85db42cd9f172c9a60eb104f3da66cd6/3cc96/landscape-lawn-mansion-house-flower-building-593903-pxhere.com-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Spring Lawn Care Tips for Baltimore, Md | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spring is when your grass needs your attention again, and doing it correctly will give your lawn the foundation it needs to thrive all year long"}}},{"node":{"id":"aa1f8a5e-a3cc-513e-bc2b-c928c3b74445","slug":"when-and-how-to-fertilize-your-lawn","path":"/blog/when-and-how-to-fertilize-your-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Maintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most […]
\n","content":"\nMaintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most of it.
\n\n\n![\"Fertilizers](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_14457202926_6d52aae30a_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to fertilizing your lawn, timing is everything. The answer to the “when” question depends on the following:
\n\n\n\nBut there is one general rule: Don’t feed the lawn during periods of dormancy – only fertilize your grass at the time of year when it grows actively.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of grasses: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses, and both have different growth and fertilization requirements. You have cool-season grass if you live in the northern third of the country and warm-season grass if you live in the southern third. If you live in the middle of the US, you may have either or both types of grass.
\n\n\n\nBut what is the right time to fertilize either of them? Here is the answer:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass grow actively in cooler months. Usually, the grass grows most actively in fall, so the best time to fertilize your lawn is once in early fall and once in late fall, at least 6 weeks before the expected first frost. During these times, the grass is actively developing and can best use the fertilizer’s nutrients.
\n\n\n\nYou can also apply fertilizer to your lawn in early spring because it’s the time when the grass greens up after winter dormancy and has a brief period of growth before the heat of summer sets in. It is the optimal time if you want to apply a third application of fertilizer to your lawn in addition to those done in fall.
\n\n\n![\"Cool](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone-1024x709.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, or Zoysiagrass, have totally different fertilization times. Because they actively grow in the warmer months, late spring and early summer is usually the best time to apply fertilizer. This helps the grass to receive nutrients during its active development phase while remaining lush throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a fall fertilizer application, early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first frost, is also suitable for your warm-season lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can read our guide to the ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to learn more about when to fertilize your lawn.
\n\n\n\nGenerally, apply fertilizer to your lawn two to four times per year. The frequency might vary depending on the type of grass, the makeup of your soil, the local climate of your area, and the type of fertilizer used. Slow-release fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks, so you should wait at least 6 weeks between applications. Immediate-release fertilizers need to be applied more often to remain effective, about every 4-6 weeks.
\n\n\n\nThe most common frequency recommendation for lawn fertilizer application is:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re sure you’ve got the timing right, follow these steps to fertilize your lawn in the best and most efficient way possible.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nBefore applying fertilizer to your lawn, you should do a few things to ensure the best results and minimize any potential harm to your grass or the environment. Preparing your lawn ahead of time will set up the foundation for successful fertilization.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests are like bloodwork for your soil. They describe the type of soil, the level of plant nutrients, and the soil pH, among other things. Get your soil tested by sending a sample to your local county Cooperative Extension office or buy an at-home test kit for quicker but less detailed results.
\n\n\n\nBased on the soil test results, amend your soil to make it adaptable for the turfgrass and fertilizer. Adjust the soil’s pH so that it’s between 6.5 to 7 (ideal for most grass types) by adding lime for lawns to increase the pH or sulfur to decrease the pH.
\n\n\n\nRemove any lawn weeds, moss, or excessive thatch growth in your lawn before fertilizing. Obstacles like these can prevent fertilizer from reaching the soil, which is where it needs to be for your grass to absorb its nutrients.
\n\n\n\nIdeally, you should mow the grass slightly lower than its typical maintenance height before fertilizing. Shorter grass permits the fertilizer to reach the soil more effectively and reduces the possibility of the fertilizer sitting on top of tall blades and causing burn or uneven distribution.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn well for at least three to four days before fertilizing it. Moist soil improves nitrogen uptake and reduces the risk of fertilizer burn. Overwatering, on the other hand, can cause the fertilizer to seep away or become less effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nIt is essential to apply lawn fertilizer carefully to ensure nutrients reach the plant roots and deliver maximum benefits.
\n\n\n\nFirst, choose the right tool according to your lawn’s area and fertilizer type. There are various kinds of fertilizer spreaders, including:
\n\n\n\nFill your chosen tool with fertilizer on a non-grassy, hard surface like a driveway or sidewalk. This keeps spills or excess fertilizer from reaching the grass before you begin, which again reduces the risk of fertilizer burn.
\n\n\n\nStart Applying the Fertilizer: Begin walking across your lawn at a slow, steady pace, pushing the spreader consistently. If you’re using a sprayer, spray a wide arc in front of you, from side to side, as you walk. Then turn around and walk the other way in a line parallel to your first pass. Continue walking back and forth across the lawn in parallel lines until you’ve covered the whole area.
\n\n\n\nTo achieve thorough coverage and eliminate missed spots, overlap each pass slightly. If you’re using a granular fertilizer, check the grass for any prominent clumps or heaps of granules once you’ve finished applying it. Use a sweep or rake to disperse these clumps to ensure even dispersion.
\n\n\n\nNote: After each usage, properly clean your spreader or sprayer. Rinse it with water to remove any residual fertilizer, which can damage the equipment if not removed.
\n\n\n\n![\"close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_150456484_cef7d54b8f_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shaylor / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWatering your lawn after fertilizing is essential for activating the nutrients in the fertilizer and ensuring optimum absorption by the grass’s roots. It is best to water your grass immediately after fertilizing it. This reduces the risk of burn from concentrated nutrients lingering on the grass blades.
\n\n\n\nUse an in-ground sprinkler system or a hose with a sprinkler attachment for even coverage. To avoid overwatering certain areas and underwatering others, make sure the water is distributed evenly across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nNote: If you use liquid fertilizer, wait two to four hours for the fertilizer to dry, and then water your lawn. Don’t water immediately after applying liquid fertilizer because it will wash the fertilizer away before it’s had time to soak into the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"broom](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/broom-for-sweeping-sidewalk-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: undefined undefined / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIn addition to cleaning your spreader or sprayer, it’s important to clean excess fertilizer off impervious surfaces near your grass, such as a driveway or patio. For granular fertilizers, sweep off any granules that may have landed on sidewalks or driveways to prevent runoff into nearby bodies of water. Fertilizer runoff can cause water pollution and harmful algae blooms.
\n\n\n\nBe especially diligent about sweeping up excess fertilizer if you have curious pets or small children in your family who might try to play with or even eat the tiny granules.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer for your lawn is critical. First of all, check your soil’s nutrient requirements through your soil test. Then select a fertilizer with a suitable nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus ratio according to your soil’s needs.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to finding a lawn fertilizer with the right nutrient blend, you’ll need to decide what type of fertilizer is best for your lawn. You’ll have to choose between slow-release and immediate-release fertilizers, synthetic and organic fertilizers, and liquid and granular fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about each of these options and figure out which one is best for you, see our guide on How to Choose Lawn Fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYes, organic fertilizers are an excellent choice for lawn care. They come from natural sources and provide slow-release nutrients that improve soil health and microbial activity. Organic fertilizers are less harmful to the environment and contribute towards eco-friendly lawn care.
\n\n\n\nLook for organic fertilizers designed exclusively for lawns in our guide to organic lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIt’s critical to act quickly if you mistakenly over-fertilize. Thoroughly water the lawn to help dilute and flush out extra nitrogen and other nutrients. Mow as little as possible until the grass recovers, and consider skipping the next scheduled fertilization to let the grass rebalance. If extensive damage develops, such as the grass turning brown, your grass may be dead. Seek the advice of a lawn care specialist to figure out the best path forward.
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat or drought. High heat and dry weather can cause stress on the grass, and fertilization during this time may worsen the stress.
\n\n\n\nRegular fertilization not only improves the general health and appearance of your lawn, but it also increases its resistance to external stressors like severe temperatures and foot traffic. It’s an essential technique contributing to a beautiful, healthy lawn you can enjoy all year. For help keeping up with a regular fertilization schedule, connect with a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn today.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SVproduction / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"When and How To Fertilize Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/1789c/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/107df/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/293e9/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/f2cbb/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/1789c/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/c26c2/beautiful-green-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/1dd6e/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/67b76/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/8df11/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/98a65/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/1dd6e/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/07637c07f2782bb7524931b2cb73d1cd/3cc96/beautiful-green-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When and How To Fertilize Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"In this guide, learn when and how to fertilize your lawn the right way so you can have a lush, beautiful lawn all year-round."}}},{"node":{"id":"7afd625a-0d74-5637-99ee-b850a6d114f0","slug":"worst-pests-columbus","path":"/lawn-care/oh/columbus/worst-pests-columbus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jay Keaton is a lawn care specialist who focuses on organic pest control. His yard is filled with chrysanthemums, basil, borage, marigolds and other plants that repel bugs.","name":"Jay Keaton","id":"aa1543ca-6fab-5e4b-bd0c-12f87aa13f51","path":"/author/jay-keaton/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6abb3b96ee2a6dcce741112f06af213b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"August 12th, 2019","excerpt":"You look forward to it all year long: backyard barbecue season. But the bugs really put a damper on things — especially in Central Ohio where heat, humidity, and rain attract the worst pests in Columbus. Mosquitos, stinkbugs, ticks, crickets, and other creepy-crawly things love to call Columbus home. And they love to make […]
\n","content":"\nYou look forward to it all year long: backyard barbecue season. But the bugs really put a damper on things — especially in Central Ohio where heat, humidity, and rain attract the worst pests in Columbus.
\n\n\n\nMosquitos, stinkbugs, ticks, crickets, and other creepy-crawly things love to call Columbus home. And they love to make themselves at home in your backyard. Along with proper lawn care, there are some ways to curtail the worst pests in Columbus. Learn how to get rid of them and control infestations.
\n\n\n\nThese bloodsuckers are part of every backyard. Bats and some birds are natural predators, but some people are more freaked out by the idea of a bat house. Insect repellants with DEET or Picaridin are effective in warding off the little buggers. Citronella candles are also helpful, although not as long-lasting.
\n\n\n\nAlong with vegetation, mosquitoes like moisture. They breed in stagnant water such as puddles, storm pipes, and rain buckets. Dump out standing water from buckets, old tires, and outdoor containers. Mosquito-repelling plants include marigolds, lavender, lemon eucalyptus, peppermint, chrysanthemums, and citronella.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find these critters in most Columbus backyards, snacking on flowers and leaves of ornamental trees and shrubs. These bright metallic green insects appear in late June through September, and they’re tough to get rid of. If it’s a small infestation, you may be able to remove them by hand or use a pheromone trap. A word of warning: Those “bag a bug” methods tend to attract more insects than they catch. A neem or pyrethrin insecticide is often more effective.
\n\n\n\nNeem oil is an organic pesticide that controls a host of backyard bugs, including aphids, cabbage loopers, leafhoppers, scale, sawflies, chinch bugs, and spider mites.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d6m8zouFNIdaVgNXK1wRhHkLhom97CrMMkPc4gRTzgPGPvFz8fUyYXv-shuB3UYDtxsV7xqBfRKi6F4Yxntb2ry0fJ4QLLnFdT5Ne0bUvr1dS2NOUq0DEnx-Mla6Nsisk8STOthU\")
These are the worst backyard pests in Columbus if you’re sensitive to droning noise. You’ll hear them singing their trilling, ringing songs in Central Oho backyards from June until September. They feed off leaves, roots, and trees where the soil is moist but not too wet. Cicadas are often mistaken for locusts. Chemical treatments are usually not effective or necessary. If you really want to get rid of cicadas, spray a garden hose into trees and shrubs to knock the insects out of them. Protect plants with sticky tape or netting to prevent cicadas from feeding or laying eggs.
\n\n\n\nColumbus and Central Ohio have its share of backyard pests and the list is rather daunting.
\n\n\n\nSoapy water helps to remove small numbers of aphids, mealybugs, and thrips. For higher populations, insecticidal soap or pesticides are more suitable. You can make an eco-friendly bug spray with soap, oil, and water.
\n\n\n\nDifficult to control with ordinary pesticides but insecticidal soap works on some of the immature larvae.
\n\n\n\n![\"Caterpillar,](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/21AG80_bT15o-L7m9aCvdufz636l9K8xhW8zovdN38s-WJqUXWHsWPfnZdNpPz339kyN3vxMa32c11B1jmw11t2NxcZly7n_js5Rc8QfVglCKnNVqc-266qGo_lw3CZlJh9EBGAf\")
Registered pesticides are best for these insects, with the granules applied directly to the soil.
\n\n\n\nAphids have a lot of natural backyard predators (lady beetles and lacewings, etc.). You can also control them with insecticidal soaps, neem oil, and strong jets of water.
\n\n\n\nThere is no magic cure to get rid of all backyard insects. The Ohio State University Extension calls it integrated pest management — a process to minimize damage. Pesticides, whether they’re organic or chemical, can sometimes kill the beneficial insects. These are the bugs that eat the worst backyard pests in Columbus.
\n\n\n\nYou can squash the bug problem by choosing disease-controlled and insect-resistant plants and trees. Keep in mind, native plants have built up resistance to the bugs over the years. Keep your grass mowed and weed-free, so the pests have no place to hide or nest.
\n\n\n\nNeed more information about lawn care in Columbus and Central Ohio? Check out our Columbus Lawn Care page.
Try as you might, you can’t get every plant to thrive in Central Texas’ humid subtropical climate. Why not give your garden a better chance with Texas native plants? The best native plants for Central Texas are much more likely to be: Remember, Texas is a big state with several different climates. A plant that […]
\n","content":"\nTry as you might, you can’t get every plant to thrive in Central Texas’ humid subtropical climate. Why not give your garden a better chance with Texas native plants? The best native plants for Central Texas are much more likely to be:
\n\n\n\nRemember, Texas is a big state with several different climates. A plant that does well in the Panhandle or East Texas may not do well in Central Texas. Look for plants native to your region for the best results.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a look at some of the best natives for Central Texas.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Ashe-Juniper-Juniperus-ashei.jpg\")
Photo Credit: katsrcool / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCentral Texas has been home to the Ashe juniper for tens of thousands of years, so it certainly qualifies as a native. Its trunk may be twisted or grooved and is covered with shaggy bark, which golden-cheeked warblers use for nests. The branches start low on the trunk, sometimes very close to the ground. Ashe juniper can serve as a shade tree.
\n\n\n\nFemale trees have blue seed cones that look like berries. Small mammals and birds snack on the seed cones, and butterflies visit its small flowers. When leaves drop off this small tree, they create rich, well-drained soil that benefits many local plants. Ashe junipers have a pleasant smell, but you may not enjoy breathing in its plentiful pollen. Anyone with cedar allergies may want to avoid this tree. It also may cause minor illness if ingested.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7 to 9
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 30 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Part shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained soils made up of limestone, sand, loam, or clay
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Minor toxicity if eaten
\n\n\n\n![\"Flower](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Black-Eyed-Susan-Rudbeckia-hirta-var.-pulcherrima.jpg\")
Photo Credit: grassrootsgroundswell / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nDo you dream of your own personal meadow? Black-eyed Susans will add a lovely pop of color to your Texas landscape with their daisy-like yellow flowers and brown centers. They are native to 48 U.S. states and can bloom from spring to fall. Black-eyed Susans attract monarch butterflies and host silvery checkerspot larvae.
\n\n\n\nThough black-eyes Susans can survive in many conditions, they do best in full sun with dry, sandy soils. These flowering plants are safe for humans and pets, though they may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions if eaten.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 3 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Can grow in most soil types but prefers dry and sandy soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Not poisonous to humans, but can be a skin irritant or cause allergic reactions if consumed; could be poisonous to grazing animals
\n\n\n\n![\"Bunch](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Blackfoot-Daisy-Melampodium-leucanthum.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Zbigniew Niepokój / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAlso known as plains blackfoot, this flower is native to prairies and meadows. These low, bushy plants produce 8 to 13 flowerheads per plant in spring and summer. Blackfoot daisies are white with a yellow center and smell like honey. Their nectar attracts bees, butterflies, and insects, while the seeds appeal to birds.
\n\n\n\nBlackfoot daisy is relatively heat, drought, and deer-resistant. You can encourage more flowers with rich soil and abundant water, but this will likely result in a shorter lifespan. This flower is popular for rock gardens since it prefers rocky and sandy soils. It’s also a good choice for dog owners since it’s safe for pets and humans.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4a to 11b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6 to 12 inches tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers acidic, dry, rocky, gravelly, and sandy soils that are well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Cardinal-Flower-Lobelia-cardinalis.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: linnaeus / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nLike the bird it shares a name with, these flowers are brilliant red. They attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Cardinal flowers die back in winter, but the shiny leaves resist cold. This plant is a good candidate for container gardens or border plantings. Watch out for snails and slugs which may wish to make a meal of the foliage.
\n\n\n\nCardinal flowers are generally low-maintenance. However, they will require frequent watering to maintain the moist soil they prefer. Some afternoon shade will shield them from the heat and prevent them from drying out. While historically used for medicine, all parts of the plant are poisonous. It’s not the best choice for parents or pet owners.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3a to 9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 6 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Rich, moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Can be toxic if large quantities are eaten
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Flame-Acanthus-Anisacanthus-quadrifidus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Earl McGehee / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso known as Mexican flame or hummingbird bush, this deciduous shrub is native to Central and South Texas. Its red-orange tubular flowers bloom from summer to fall and are especially prolific when it rains. Flame acanthus attracts hummingbirds and butterflies, hosting janais patch and Texan crescentspot larvae. Its bark is exfoliating, and its light-green leaves have a spearhead shape.
\n\n\n\nFlame acanthus is native to areas with rocky, calcareous soils but can adapt to heavier soils. Since it is drought and heat tolerant, it does well in xeriscapes. You can use it in landscapes, pots, and dense, low hedges.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7 to 10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3 to 5 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained sand, clay, loam, caliche, or limestone
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Halberd-Leaved-Rose-Mallow-Hibiscus-laevis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andrew C / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhether you call it a rose-mallow or hibiscus, this flowering plant adds a tropical charm to your garden. Though it resembles various imported hibiscus, the halberd-leaved rose-mallow is native to marshes in North Central Texas. The pink or white flowers bloom between May and November, opening in the daytime and closing at night.
\n\n\n\nHalberd-leaved rose-mallows are low-maintenance with few insect and disease problems. They are excellent border plants for rain, butterfly, or pollinator gardens. They also do well on properties near ponds and streams. If you want to plant more, you can collect seeds in the summer from your existing plants. This type of hibiscus is safe for humans, dogs, and cats.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4a to 9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4 to 6 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Tolerates wet, acidic, sand, loam, or clay soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lemon-Beebalm-Monarda-citriodora.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Hayes / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLemon mint or beebalm gets its name from its citrusy smell. White, lavender, or pink flowers encircle the stem, blooming in spring, summer, and sometimes fall. Bees love this plant, but so do hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s also edible for humans — use the leaves in salad, tea, or other culinary creations.
\n\n\n\nSince it’s an annual, lemon beebalm will die off each year, though it can reseed itself. However, its aggressive growth can be a double-edged sword if you want to keep it contained. It’s a good choice for backyard meadows and edible gardens. Keep an eye out for powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4a to 9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 4 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Annual
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, sandy, loamy, rocky, or clay
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Pink-Evening-Primrose-Oenothera-speciosa.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: ZooFari / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis plant produces fragrant pink or white cup-shaped flowers. Though the name suggests pink evening primroses flower in the evening, they usually open in the morning in the American South. They also tend to be darker pink than northern populations. Pink evening primrose can bloom whenever temperatures are above freezing, but each flower only lasts a day. The flowers attract bees and birds, especially finches.
\n\n\n\nThis species is hardy and drought-resistant, but flowers will be smaller during dry spells. It may also go dormant if soils dry up entirely in summer — water sparingly to prevent this. Pink evening primroses are an excellent dense ground cover for xeriscapes, though they may aggressively spread if you aren’t careful. They will only bloom if in full sunlight. Though this plant is generally low-maintenance, you can fertilize it in spring to encourage flowering.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 2 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained soils that are dry, moist, fertile, poor, loamy, clay, sandy, or gravely
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Purple-Coneflower-Echinacea-sp.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThese flowers look like purple daisies, each with its own stem. The flowers bloom from June to October and attract butterflies and bees. Though many species share a common name, Echinacea purpurea and Echinacea angustifolia are the best fits for Texas.
\n\n\n\nPurple coneflower’s low-maintenance, drought tolerance, and summer flowers make it a welcome addition to Texas gardens in groupings or borders. They also look lovely when cut for a vase or bouquet. Though purple coneflowers have few disease and pest problems, Japanese beetles may eat their leaves and flowers.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3a to 8b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 to 4 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but tolerates light shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Fertile, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May cause allergic reactions if consumed
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Rock-Rose-Pavonia-lasiopetala.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nWhile it may not be a traditional rose, this ornamental shrub still rocks. The rock rose blooms from spring until the first frost. The pink flowers attract various pollinators. When not in bloom, you can enjoy its dark green leaves with a frosted appearance. Use in flower beds, border plantings, rock gardens, or xeriscapes.
\n\n\n\nThough it’s native to the Hill Country, Texas A&M AgriLife Research has designated this shrub a Texas Superstar due to its versatility throughout the state. Rock roses can handle several types and tolerate sun, heat, and drought. It’s also easy to propagate, accessible, and affordable. Though this evergreen shrub tolerates shady areas, it will bloom less and be more susceptible to powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Small shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8 to 13
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 to 4 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to light shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained soils of various fertility and pH levels
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Standing-Cypress-Ipomopsis-rubra.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nThese plants live up to their name — they stand up straight and tall, showing off tubular red, orange, or yellow flowers on stiff stems. They can grow up to 6 feet tall but are usually shorter. The opening of the standing cypress flower resembles a star. These flowers are great for ornamental or hummingbird gardens.
\n\n\n\nStanding cypress is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance. Since this plant is biennial, you must replant it to enjoy it for more than two years. It will develop in the first year and flower in the second, so plant them yearly if you want flowers every season. You can prune stalks that are done blooming to encourage new growth and flowering.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6 to 9
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 6 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Biennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained sand, loam, or limestone
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: sonnia hill / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nDo you need a drought-resistant ground cover with few pest and disease problems? Texas lantana produces round clusters of yellow, orange, and red flowers. Your local butterfly and hummingbird population will feed on its nectar, and birds will snack on its black seeds. Texas lantana blooms from spring until the first frost, then dies back. You can protect this plant from the cold with mulch.
\n\n\n\nYou can occasionally prune Texas lantanas during the growing season to encourage new flower growth, but be warned — this plant’s leaves release an unpleasant odor when pruned or crinkled. Its toxicity makes it deer-resistant, but you must also be careful around it if you have pets or children. Consuming any part of these native shrubs could be fatal.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 to 6 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Tolerates many soil types but prefers well-drained sandy and gravelly soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: All parts are poisonous if ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Texas-Prickly-Pear-Opuntia-engelmannii-var.-lindheimeri.jpg\")
Photo Credit: William L. Farr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThe Texas prickly pear is common in Central and South Texas. This succulent has a good heat tolerance and does better the more south you go. It can grow tall or form spread-out thickets up to 8 feet across. Bowl-shaded red, yellow, or orange flowers bloom in June. From July to September, those flowers will produce red to purple fruits called tuna.
\n\n\n\nThe prickly pear fruit and pads are edible for humans and animals, but the older pads may cause oxalic acid poisoning. You should also watch out for the spines and barbed bristles. They are difficult to remove from your skin, so this plant may not be suitable for curious children and pets.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Succulent or shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 9 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry soils with acidic or neutral pH
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Painful spines and bards; oxalic acid poisoning from consuming old prickly pear pads
\n\n\n\n![\"Small](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Texas-Sage-Salvia-texana.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Gideon Pisanty / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nBring the prairie to your home with Texas sage. This plant is native to the well-drained limestone soils in Texas and Mexico. The delicate, purple-blue blooms attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds while releasing a fragrant scent. The flowers bloom from March through May.
\n\n\n\nTexas sage can survive many challenges nature sends its way. It’s resistant to cold, heat, drought, and deer. It does well when used as a ground cover or in xeriscapes. Pair Texas sage with other purple flowers and short prairie grasses.
\n\n\n\nNote: Another Texas native, Leucophyllum frutescens, shares the name Texas sage but is also called Texas barometer bush or cenizo.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6a to 9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 24 inches tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained and alkaline soils that are sandy or clay
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Many](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Yellow-Sundrops-Calylophus-serrulatus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Patrick Standish / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSometimes called yellow evening primrose or plains evening primrose, this plant will bring sunshine into your life with its cheery four-petaled flowers. Sundrops bloom from April until July, though the loveliest flowers appear at the beginning of the season. The rest of the plant is bushy with thin leaves.
\n\n\n\nSince its native habitat is plains and prairies, this plant does well in hot, dry weather. It tolerates many conditions and fits xeriscapes or rock gardens well. For the best growth, cut back in the spring and apply mulch in winter for cold protection.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 8 to 30 inches tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry and well-drained; tolerates clay, loam, and sand
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None
\n\n\n\nThe easiest way to gauge a plant’s suitability for your area is to check its USDA Hardiness Zone. The USDA Hardiness Zone measures the annual minimum temperature in an area. Central Texas falls in zones 7b to 8b, which experiences temperatures as low as 15 degrees Fahrenheit. If a plant falls within these zones, it can likely tolerate the temperatures in the area.
\n\n\n\nTemperature and hardiness zone aren’t everything. Soil conditions also affect a plant’s growth ability. Though general soil maps can provide some information, a soil test will give you the best idea of your garden bed’s texture and nutrient content. Other microclimate factors affecting plant growth include moisture, salinity, and sun or shade levels.
\n\n\n\nThe last but most important consideration is your personal preferences. Do you want flowering, edible, or pet-safe plants? How much time do you have for maintenance? Though most native plants are low-maintenance, some may require additional pruning, irrigation, and fertilization to get the results you want.
\n\n\n\nThe following drought-tolerant plants need less water than most:
• Blackfoot daisy
• Flame acanthus
• Lemon beebalm
• Rock rose
• Texas lantana
• Texas prickly pear
• Texas sage
If you want a native groundcover, consider the following from our plant list:
• Pink evening primrose
• Texas lantana
• Texas sage
The best turfgrasses for Central Texas are:
• Bermudagrass
• Buffalograss
• St. Augustinegrass
• Texas bluegrass
• Buffalograss
Do you need help jumpstarting your native plant landscape design? Whether you live in Austin, Pflugerville, Round Rock, or any other Texas city, our landscaping professionals can do the heavy lifting and provide expert advice.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Pixabay
\n","title":"15 Best Native Plants for Central Texas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/1789c/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/107df/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/293e9/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/f2cbb/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/1789c/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/c26c2/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/1dd6e/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/67b76/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp 320w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/8df11/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp 500w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/98a65/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp 800w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/1dd6e/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp 960w,\n/static/9c98c00f859734b123a02fb86abb8f6c/3cc96/Texas-Lantana-Lantana-urticoides-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"15 Best Native Plants for Central Texas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want to embrace Texas’ natural beauty? The best native plants for Central Texas are low-maintenance and good for the ecosystem."}}},{"node":{"id":"55544e92-5767-5ed0-9e58-cbdcd6d01e03","slug":"best-grass-types-central-virginia","path":"/lawn-care/central-virginia/best-grass-types-central-virginia/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Based in the south of France, Jeffery holds a master of science degree from the International University of Monaco. His hobbies include hiking, cycling, and traveling across Europe.","name":"Jeffery Keusseyan","id":"75c05140-c87e-540a-8d34-da174527f4cc","path":"/author/jeffery-keusseyan/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/12a7b239a959b7f6feee4e4b9495d63f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"25cd38af-fffb-5477-8494-0145c9f36f4f","name":"Central Virginia","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/central-virginia/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 30th, 2023","excerpt":"Home to the state capital, Central Virginia is a historic region with plenty to offer for its nature-loving residents. You can enjoy long, refreshing walks in Powhatan State Park and cherish everything that mother nature has to offer. But every once in a while, you just feel like sluggin’ it in your backyard. When you […]
\n","content":"\nHome to the state capital, Central Virginia is a historic region with plenty to offer for its nature-loving residents. You can enjoy long, refreshing walks in Powhatan State Park and cherish everything that mother nature has to offer. But every once in a while, you just feel like sluggin’ it in your backyard. When you choose the best grass types for Central Virginia, you can transform that grim-looking turf into a lush green lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive when temperatures range from 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They actively grow in late spring and summer, entering dormancy as temperatures drop in winter. These turfgrasses have low frost-tolerance, enjoy high temperatures, and require less water than cool-season grasses. They include bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, cool-season grasses thrive when temperatures range from 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They tolerate frost and lower temperatures, actively growing in spring and fall. Cool-season turfgrasses include tall fescue, creeping red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nCentral Virginia lies in USDA plant hardiness zone 7a, though some parts of Richmond and Chesterfield are in 7b. When it comes to choosing the right turfgrass, the state’s location in the transition zone is a far more decisive factor. The grasses mentioned below are suitable for Central Virginia, and should be able to thrive under the right conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a perennial, bunch-type grass that can adapt to a wide variety of soils. It withstands drought conditions and hot summers better than other cool-season turfgrasses. Tall fescue performs best in full sun, but is also known for its moderate shade-tolerance.
\n\n\n\nTo get the best out of this cool-season grass, overseeding is recommended to maintain a dense lawn and minimize weed competition. With its notable versatility, tall fescue is a great choice for Central Virginia homeowners.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is vital for cool-season grass seed mixes in transition zones, including Virginia. It grows well in early spring and fall, but becomes dormant during the summer. Perennial ryegrass is able to survive severe climates, though Virginia is not prone to such conditions. While it can tolerate lightly shaded lawns, it prefers full sun.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial turfgrass is used to overseed warm-season grasses to extend the lawn’s winter green color.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is another great choice for a Central Virginia lawn. It spreads by both rhizomes and tillers, forming a dense sod. New shoots are primarily produced in the spring and late summer. However, new shoots and leaves are produced year-round in the transition zone. This grass type has good drought tolerance, but little to no shade tolerance. For shady lawns, fine fescue might be a better choice.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass can tolerate heavy foot traffic, making it a great choice for families who enjoy playing Cornhole.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is a bunch-type grass with several species, including creeping red and chewings. Its needle-like leaves are quite unique and distinctive. It is a slow-growing grass that does not tolerate poorly-drained soils. Seed mixtures of fine fescue and Kentucky bluegrass are commonly found in garden centers across the state.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is the most shade-tolerant cool-season turfgrass, with all species able to thrive in our Central Virginia climate.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is one of the most cold-tolerant warm-season grasses. It produces a dense, cushiony turf when established. It can withstand wear and tear, and requires less water than most cool-season grasses. Its thick growth helps it control crabgrass and other summer weeds. Perennial ryegrass can be used to overseed zoysia for a green winter color.
\n\n\n\nDuring the hot summer months, zoysiagrass will boost your lawn’s visual appeal with an attractive green color. If you enjoy lawn games and outdoor activities, this warm-season turfgrass won’t let you down.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but recovers slowly from damage
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low nitrogen fertilization requirements, although, it’s prone to thatch build-up.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 1 and 2 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a warm-season grass that spreads by both stolons and rhizomes. It has excellent drought, wear, and salt tolerance. Bermudagrass enters dormancy in early winter, which is when the leaves turn straw-brown in color. Due to its rapid growth rate, this turfgrass may develop excessive thatch. Fortunately, it is capable of recovering from injury very quickly.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass will perform very poorly in lawns with constant shade. Despite that, it is well-adapted to most soils and can be used in athletic fields and golf courses.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; thrives in full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set the mowing height between 0.5 and 1.5 inches for hybrid Bermudagrass cultivars. Mow common Bermudagrass down to 1.5 to 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn regularly endures high traffic, a mixture of turf-type tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is an excellent choice. Kentucky bluegrass has a spreading root system that allows your turf to quickly recover from excessive traffic or drought damage. As mentioned previously, both grass types are suitable for Central Virginia’s climate.
Centipedegrass is a warm-season grass that can only be grown in the Tidewater area. Additionally, this turfgrass cannot withstand heavy foot traffic, so your lawn would be much better off with zoysia or Kentucky bluegrass.
Not only can cogongrass be found in Central Virginia, but throughout the entire state. It is an aggressive and invasive perennial grass that creates dense groundcovers, displacing native plants and some ground-nesting animals.
You can control this invasive species by mowing, grazing, or burning. Unfortunately, none of these methods are entirely effective. To completely remove this plant from your back or front yard, the rhizomes must be destroyed.
Another way to deal with this problem is herbicide control. Imazapyr and glyphosate are two active ingredients that have proven successful in dealing with this non-native plant.
The best grass types for Northern Virginia include:
● Tall fescue
● Kentucky bluegrass
● Perennial ryegrass
● Fine fescue
● Zoysiagrass
● Bermudagrass
With 6 grass types to choose from, the decision-making process might get slightly difficult. You should consider your lawn’s soil type, sun exposure levels, and activity level to help you choose the right grass for your turf. Add some more research to your thinking, and you’ll get to plant some native trees or wildflowers to help boost the local ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nBut why stop there when you can create the ultimate outdoor space? Consider low-maintenance landscaping ideas for your Virginia lawn, including mulching and hardscaping.
\n\n\n\nLooking for a Virginia lawn care pro near you? We have trusted lawn care pros in Powhatan, Mechanicsville, Glen Allen, and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Karen Blaha / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Central Virginia","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.444043321299639,"src":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1789c/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/107df/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/293e9/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/f2cbb/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1789c/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/c26c2/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1dd6e/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/67b76/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 320w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/8df11/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 500w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/98a65/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 800w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1dd6e/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 960w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/3cc96/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Central Virginia | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Tired of looking at patchy spots on your lawn? Transform your grim-looking turf with the best grass types for Central Virginia."}}},{"node":{"id":"1a0c0738-28df-59e5-8559-5d5e7a104891","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors.
\n","content":"\nVirginia Beach is one of the lucky metropolitan areas when it comes to lawn watering. Watering restrictions in Virginia Beach are pretty much nonexistent. A representative of the public utility says Virginia Beach has plenty of water. But the truth isn’t quite as simple as that, and the city asks people to follow a list of water conservation recommendations. Here’s a little bit of the history behind this, along with the city’s conservation recommendations.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest drought of the last century took place in 1930. The United States Geological Survey says that was one of the most severe droughts recorded in the state. Things dried up again in 1938-1942, and 1962-1971 and other years, like in the 1980s More recently, a milder drought hit Virginia in 2002.
\n\n\n\nToday, Virginia Beach pumps in millions of gallons a day from Lake Gaston. That abundant water supply allows the city to skirt water restrictions. But this didn’t come without a court challenge from the state of North Carolina, where part of the lake is located. Virginia Beach prevailed, but the water supply is a hard-fought resource, and the city promotes conservation.
\n\n\n\nThe city of Virginia Beach has a list of recommendations for outdoor and indoor water use on its website. Those recommendations include watering your lawn in the early morning. Morning watering is also best for the grass since it allows the roots time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. Watering during the day wastes water and watering at night leaves the lawn vulnerable to disease and fungus. The city also recommends replacing some of your grass with mulched garden beds and choosing native plants, which are adapted to the climate of Virginia Beach. Other common-sense tips include aiming your sprinklers away from driveways and streets and towards your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line is that you can water as much as you want and when you want, and the city of Virginia Beach is not going to come after you. Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors. Save the water for a rainy day … or rather several dry days when we really need it!
\n\n\n\nWant more information about lawn care and landscaping in Virginia Beach? Visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Finding any weed in your Jacksonville lawn can be frustrating, but some are easy to control with common lawn sprays. But, there are a few weeds that require a bit more work.
\n","content":"\nPicture this: You’ve gone outside to enjoy a sunny Jacksonville day when you notice something odd on your lawn. It sure doesn’t look like the rest of your grass, and upon closer inspection, you may notice dying turf near it. You’ve stumbled upon a weed, but what should you do about it?
\n\n\n\nThe best way to deal with these leafy intruders is to identify them so you can create an appropriate game plan. Let’s learn about some of the worst Jacksonville weeds so you can grab the right tools and get your lawn back to normal.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWeeds compete for the water, nutrients, and sun your turfgrass needs. Left unaddressed, they can spread over your lawn, garden, and neighboring properties.
\n\n\n\nBesides the competition for resources, weeds are usually a sign of something wrong. Overwatering is one of the most common problems that encourage weed growth. However, it also may be that your turf isn’t getting the nutrients it needs or is mowed too low to reach a healthy density.
\n\n\n\nYou may feel torn about what weed control method to try first. When choosing between manual and chemical control, you’ll need to consider time, effectiveness, and environmental concerns.
\n\n\n\nRemoving weeds by hand is the most eco-friendly method. However, it can take a lot of time, especially if you have more than a few weeds. You must pull up all plant parts to effectively remove weeds by hand. Many weeds can grow back from roots or tubers left in the ground.
\n\n\n\nHere are some tips to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\nHerbicides are specially-formulated products designed to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides target specific plants, such as grassy or broadleaf weeds. On the other hand, non-selective herbicides kill plants more indiscriminately.
\n\n\n\nAlways read herbicide labels carefully to avoid hurting you, your lawn, or your pets.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis weed can be tricky to spot, but you’ll see it everywhere once you recognize it. It resembles turfgrass but is often a lighter green with broader leaves. Crabgrass gravitates toward bare patches in your lawn. It germinates in spring and dies in fall, leaving brown patches and making your lawn’s color uneven.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass can show up on any lawn. The best way to keep it at bay is to choose an appropriate grass type for Jacksonville. Keep your lawn thick and healthy with proper maintenance, so there are no bare spots for crabgrass to invade. If prevention doesn’t work, apply pre-emergent herbicides in early March before temperatures are consistently above 65 to 70 degrees to avoid harming your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers dry soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollarweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ranjith-chemmad / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA rose by any other name would smell just as sweet, but this weed is just as annoying whether it’s called dollarweed or pennywort. The coin-themed names come from the size and round shape of the leaves. Dollarweed is low to the ground and spreads with seeds, rhizomes, and the occasional tuber. Its small white flowers can bloom year-round.
\n\n\n\nDollarweed can thrive in many soil types, with or without sun, but prefers moist soil. To discourage this weed, avoid overwatering your lawn and improve drainage. Once you spot them, pull them out by hand or use selective or non-selective herbicides. Ensure you pull out all the white rhizomes, or it might make a comeback.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates sandy, loam, or clay soils with acidic to neutral pH
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling, pre-emergent herbicides, or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"honeybee](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dandelion.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDandelions are some of the most iconic weeds. They’re easy to spot once they have their signature yellow flowers or fluffy white seedheads. Your inner child may want to blow those seeds away and make a wish, but resist the temptation — you’d only be spreading them around your yard and neighborhood. These plants are best dealt with before they produce seeds.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent dandelions is to keep your turf dense and healthy, so there’s no room for them. Hand pulling isn’t a very effective removal method because it has deep roots, but it may be feasible in small yards.
\n\n\n\nApply pre-emergent herbicides before dandelions germinate when soil temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Spot treat with broadleaf herbicides but avoid triclopyr because it can harm the warm-season turfgrasses in Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; dandelions are edible unless you have a latex allergy
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Broadleaf herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Goosegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso called wiregrass or crowfootgrass, goosegrass gets its name from finger-like spikes that pop out from the same spot when it flowers. Before it reaches that point, it will be low-growing in matted, grass-like clumps with a white leaf sheath at the base. Because of its growth pattern, it survives low mowing remarkably well.
\n\n\n\nGoosegrass grows so aggressively in thin lawns it might give you goosebumps. Its favorite soils are compact and wet, so aeration may help make your yard less welcoming. Need to break out the herbicides? You can use pre- or post-emergent herbicides with ingredients like dithiopyr, oryzalin, pendimethalin, or prodiamine.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers compact, wet soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre- or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chamberbitter.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Prenn / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant will leave you bitter if it takes over your Jacksonville lawn. Chamberbitter has small, round leaves on long stems with bursting pods that launch seeds everywhere. It looks similar to the powderpuff mimosa, a native groundcover in Florida. Two kinds are found in the Sunshine State – long-stalked chamberbitter (Phyllanthus tenellus) and the smaller gripeweed (Phyllanthus urinaria).
\n\n\n\nGripeweed loves moist, overwatered soils and can survive even when mowed 2 inches high. This weed germinates from early summer to early fall. You can pull out these weeds by hand, but don’t shake the roots before tossing them in the trash — you could accidentally spread their seeds.
\n\n\n\nYoung chamberbitter can be controlled by pre- or post-emergent herbicide, but older, woody specimens may need two or three applications to die back. Apply pre-emergent applications in April to get ahead of germination and seed spreading. Be cautious applying post-emergent herbicides to centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, since they also may be harmed.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers warm soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides work best, but you also can use post-emergent or hand-pulling
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sedges.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Tann / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSedges may look like grass, but you can identify these weeds by the angular shape of their stems. Yellow nutsedge (Cyperus escuelentus) and purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus) can be identified by their small flowers when in bloom. Summer is the season they’re at their peak, but they can grow year-round in temperate Florida.
\n\n\n\nSedges attack lawns without well-established root systems. Avoid overwatering and excessive foot traffic to address the root problem, then try removal. Nutsedges spread with tubers on their roots, making them difficult to remove by hand. Check periodically to see if they grow back. You may need to repeatedly treat this weed with herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10B for yellow nutsedge and 3A-10B for purple nutsedge
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most types, but prefers moist soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling and herbicides
\n\n\n\nDandelion weeders are a popular tool for weed removal in lawns and gardens. You also can use garden hoes.
While you can kill individual weeds, the war with weeds will never end. A gust of wind or an animal passing through could bring new weed seeds with them. However, preventative methods like pre-emergent herbicides and proper lawn maintenance give you the best chance of avoiding sprouted, visible weeds.
It depends on what your lawn goals are. If you want a picturesque lawn, no. Weeds will always compete with your grass and create an inconsistent appearance, if not patches and brown spots.
However, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. A weed is only a weed if it’s unwanted or threatens something desirable. Several weeds are beneficial to Florida’s ecosystem. Thus, some homeowners choose to have a wild, less manicured lawn to be eco-friendly.
If this is the route you want to go, research your options thoroughly. Simply letting your lawn grow unattended isn’t necessarily going to create a natural utopia. You will likely need to actively cultivate some native plants and eliminate any invasive species that try to return. Your yard will become lower-maintenance once fully established.
You’ll need a vigilant eye and a dedicated lawn care regime to keep your lawn weed-free. If you’d rather not give up your weekend outing to Riverside Park, consider hiring a Jacksonville lawn care professional to do the dirty work. A pro can identify weeds quickly and has the best products on the market to eliminate them for good.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Pixabay
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