![\"Apples](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Apple-Tree.jpg\")
Whether you want a bit of shade to protect you from Utah’s scorching sun or you want to provide food and habitat for local wildlife, there are many reasons to plant a tree. But with Utah’s unpredictable climate, which likes to fluctuate between hot summers and freezing winters, it’s wise to know the best trees […]
\n","content":"\nWhether you want a bit of shade to protect you from Utah’s scorching sun or you want to provide food and habitat for local wildlife, there are many reasons to plant a tree. But with Utah’s unpredictable climate, which likes to fluctuate between hot summers and freezing winters, it’s wise to know the best trees for your Utah landscape.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Famartin / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want a tree that looks great and produces delicious, nourishing snacks, why not plant an apple tree? There are various apple tree cultivars out there, and most grow better when another variety is planted nearby; so if you feel up to it, plant a couple. Standard apple trees may live for more than 50 years.
\n\n\n\nTake note that they’re also likely to attract birds and a variety of animals to your yard to snack, so consider humane ways to keep them off your apples.
\n\n\n\nApple trees are versatile, don’t need as much care as other fruit trees, and usually grow well in Utah. So if you want to enjoy fresh, organic apples straight from your backyard, planting an apple tree may be a great idea.
\n\n\n\nThe tree doesn’t have serious hazards, but apples’ stems, leaves, and seeds shouldn’t be eaten, as they’re toxic.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 9
Growing conditions: Grows well in well-drained, moist soil, but occasional dryness is fine; its soil texture should be clay, loam, or sand
Sunlight: Either full sun or a little shade, but at least 8 hours of sun per day
Mature size: 15 to 30 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic stems, leaves, and seeds
![\"Blue](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blue-Spruce.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Qirille / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBlue spruce is a stunning, coniferous evergreen tree that may live for over 600 years. Though it’s also commonly called Colorado blue spruce, the tree is also native to the Beehive State; in fact, it’s Utah’s state tree. Because it’s a native, it’s well accustomed to Utah’s climate, easy to care for, and beneficial for wildlife. As one of the most popular evergreens, it will add a touch of beauty and elegance to your landscape.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 2 to 7
Growing conditions: Needs normal moisture, but tolerates floods and drought to an extent; adaptable; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, rich, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: Should get full sun with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 50 to 75 feet
Leaf retention: Evergreen
Flowering?: No
Potential hazards: None known, but caution is always advised
\n\n\n\n![\"Bur](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bur-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Justin Meissen from St Paul, United States / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBur oak provides a great deal of shade with its crown, which often becomes wider than the tree’s height. It tolerates a variety of moisture and soil conditions but thrives in full sun. With a lifespan of over 300 years, bur oak may adorn your yard for generations. It’s also great for local wildlife such as butterflies, moths, beetles, treehoppers, and more.
\n\n\n\nTake note that all parts of the tree, including acorns, are toxic for you and your pets. However, the acorns are safe to eat for some birds and other wildlife, so you can provide them with food by planting the tree.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Needs moderate moisture but tolerates drought to an extent; grows in acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils.
Sunlight: Prefers full sun with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily
Mature size: 50 to 80 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Hot](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hot-Wings-Maple.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Le.Loup.Gris / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHot wings maple, also known as Tatarian maple, is a showy tree that will make a fun addition to your Utah yard. Hot wing maple’s fragrant spring blossoms are followed by double samaras (wing trees) that fall from the tree, oftentimes called “spinners” or “helicopters.”
\n\n\n\nAlthough no hot wings actually grow on this tree, it will brighten your yard with its vibrant red foliage and provide some shade during summer barbecues. The tree’s size makes it perfect for smaller landscapes. It may live for over 70 years.
\n\n\n\nThough the tree poses no known hazards, be sure not to confuse your hot wings maple for a red maple or another toxic tree.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Tolerates various soil conditions and drought
Sunlight: Can grow in either full or partial sun
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: None known, but practice caution; be sure not to confuse your hot wings maple for red maple or another toxic tree
![\"Japanese](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Cherry-Blossom-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kurt Kaiser / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJapanese cherry blossom tree, also known as Kanzan tree, features stunning double pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. They also display stunning fall foliage. The tree is shaped like a vase, and once it matures, its crown is often wider than the tree is high. Though it sometimes grows quite tall, it can also be planted as a bonsai tree.
\n\n\n\nAlthough Japanese cherry blossom tree doesn’t tolerate drought as well as some other trees, it can still handle mildly dry conditions. However, if you want the tree to thrive, you should keep its soil moist. This beautiful tree usually lives for between 15 and 25 years, but its numerous benefits make it well worth planting in your yard.
\n\n\n\nTake note that the tree doesn’t bear fruits, and its leaves, stems, and seeds are toxic.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Growing conditions: Prefers moist conditions but tolerates dry weather to an extent; grows in acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy, well-drained, wet and clay soils.
Sunlight: Should grow in full sun, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 30 to 40 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Northern](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Northern-Red-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katrin Schneider, korina.info – CC-BY-SA-4.0 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor a pop of color during the fall months, consider planting the Northern red oak. This beautiful tree grows a dense crown, perfect for providing shade and improving your home’s curb appeal. It usually lives up to 300 years, although some northern red oaks have lived up to as many as 500 years.
\n\n\n\nIt tolerates a variety of conditions, such as compacted soil, pollution, and drought, but prefers moist soil and lots of sunlight. While acorns are toxic for some animals, birds and rodents like to feast on them.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Prefers moisture, but can handle some drought; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: should grow in full sun, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 60 to 75 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Peach](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Peach-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want a tree that bears juicy, delicious fruit, another option is the peach tree. The peach tree thrives in Utah’s hot days and cold nights during the growing season, looks beautiful year-round, and has many available cultivars. It also attracts butterflies, birds, and even squirrels and raccoons. If you don’t want your peaches to be snacked on that much, you can consider a humane way to protect your peach tree.
\n\n\n\nPeach and nectarine trees usually live about 12 years. To keep your peach tree healthy and bearing delicious fruit, make sure to take proper care of it, prune it, and protect it from diseases and insect pests.
\n\n\n\nTake note not to eat the seeds and wilted leaves, as they’re poisonous.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9
Growing conditions: Grows well in well-drained, moist soil; its soil texture should be clay, loam, or sand.
Sunlight: Should get full sun, with at least 6 hours of sun per day
Mature size: 15 to 25 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic seeds and wilted leaves
\n\n\n\n![\"Pinyon](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pinyon-Pine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: S. Rae / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre you looking for year-round green foliage? Pinyon pine is one of the most drought-tolerant evergreens, making it a great fit for Utah’s arid climate. What’s more, the tree yields delicious and healthy pine nuts that can be consumed raw or toasted.
\n\n\n\nRemarkably, pinyon pine may live as long as 1,000 years. It’s somewhat oval-shaped when young and becomes more open as it ages. If you want to provide local wildlife with food, you’ll be glad to know that the tree attracts birds and squirrels.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Growing conditions: Best not to irrigate once established; should get well-drained soil; can grow on dry, poor, or alkaline soils, but not wet soils; drought-tolerant.
Sunlight: Should get at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 25 to 50 feet
Leaf retention: Evergreen
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: None known for humans or pets, but caution is always advised
![\"Rose](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rose-of-Sharon.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eric Kounce TexasRaiser / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRose of Sharon is a perennial plant that yields beautiful blossoms year after year for 20 to 30 years. The blossoms’ colors include white, blue, lavender, pink, and red, and sometimes they’re even combined. Moreover, rose of Sharon is also drought-tolerant and versatile, making it a great addition to your Utah landscape. It also attracts wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nTake caution, though; this type of hibiscus is reported to be toxic to pets.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9
Growing conditions: If in full or partial sun, tolerates various soil temperatures, moisture conditions, and PH, but needs moisture and protection during midday and afternoon sunshine.
Sunlight: Prefers at least 4 hours of sunlight per day; it also needs a little pruning and shaping
Mature size: 8 to 12 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Star](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Star-Magnolia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Photo: Myrabella / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe showy star magnolia’s striking, fragrant blossoms stand out in contrast to its dark green leaves, making it a beautiful addition to any landscape. A healthy star magnolia may live for as long as 120 years. It also provides food and shelter for local wildlife.
\n\n\n\nThe tree is easy to maintain and resistant to Utah’s varying temperatures. Although it’s quite versatile, you’re more likely to enjoy more of star magnolia’s magnificent flowers if you plant it in full sun.
\n\n\n\nThe tree is generally seen as non-toxic, but some sources report that it may have some poison characteristics; caution is always advised.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 4 to 9
Growing conditions: Withstands some flooding and drought; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: Needs full sun and partial shade with at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day; trees exposed to full sun flower better
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Most sources report that star magnolia has no toxic effects, but a few sources claim they may have some poison characteristics; caution is always advised
Caring for your tree is important to help it thrive in your landscape. As such, you should research the specific needs of your tree, and make sure that you provide it with the right maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few tips to make your Utah tree thrive:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve planted your tree, make sure you give it regular checkups to ensure its health and growth. Be sure to check all parts of the tree and monitor its annual growth.
\n\n\n\nAccording to Salt Lake City Public Lands Department, new trees typically need to be watered 1 to 2 times per week. In summer, you should increase the frequency to 3 to 4 times per week.
According to the University of Maryland, most trees shouldn’t need fertilizer, especially when they’ve become mature. It’s definitely better to avoid fertilizing at planting time because it can stunt growth. You should also certainly not use fertilizer if the tree has recently suffered root damage.
If you want to plant a fruit tree, the apple tree is among the easiest to grow. It’s relatively low maintenance and a great way to start your fruit tree growing journey.
As we’ve discussed, a lot goes into making sure that your fruit tree thrives, but there are some things you can do to make tree care easier. For example, you can choose a low-maintenance tree species that won’t need as much care and attention as other kinds of trees.
\n\n\n\nTo make it easier to care for your whole yard, consider xeriscaping techniques, hardscapes, and planting low-maintenance grass and plants. If you live in Salt Lake City, be sure to check out our Salt Lake City grasses guide. ****
\n\n\n\nHowever, if you’d like some extra help with caring for your Utah yard and trees, be sure to contact one of WikiLawn’s pros in Utah.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Capital of Utah / Raman Patel / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n","title":"The Best Trees for a Utah Landscape","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/1789c/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/107df/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg 320w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/293e9/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg 500w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/f2cbb/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg 800w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/1789c/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg 960w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/c26c2/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/1dd6e/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/67b76/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp 320w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/8df11/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp 500w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/98a65/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp 800w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/1dd6e/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp 960w,\n/static/4fee2173e5f6eaf6fdd286aa999f3b2f/3cc96/Capital-of-Utah-Salt-Lake-City.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 10 Best Trees for a Utah Landscape","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Not every tree will thrive in Utah’s challenging climate, but these 10 will, and they look great as well."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"a2686088-d2d1-5a1c-b532-7c5463bbae8f","slug":"best-grass-types-dallas","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/best-grass-types-dallas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"March 5th, 2019","excerpt":"With an average temperature of 79 degrees Fahrenheit in October, it is easy to see why backyard barbecues and frozen margaritas are so popular in Dallas, Texas, and it would be a shame not to show off your lush, green yard. The best grass types for Dallas need little water to thrive in the city’s […]
\n","content":"\nWith an average temperature of 79 degrees Fahrenheit in October, it is easy to see why backyard barbecues and frozen margaritas are so popular in Dallas, Texas, and it would be a shame not to show off your lush, green yard. The best grass types for Dallas need little water to thrive in the city’s hot summers. If you’re installing a new lawn or ready to take your existing yard from drab to fab, consider one of these options for results that will survive the Texas heat.
\n\n\n\nThe city’s hot summers, cold winters, and low precipitation levels are best suited to warm-season grass varieties. Warm-season grasses soak up the sun and actively grow during late spring and go dormant around mid-fall. These varieties grow best in the southern United States, preferring growing temperatures between 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most popular Texas grass variety. The hardy, fine-textured turfgrass withstands drought and heavy traffic, making it a durable and versatile option for athletic fields, home lawns, golf courses, and more. It is an aggressive grass that recovers quickly from damage, leading some to consider it an aggressive species.
\n\n\n\nDallas is home to many types of sun-loving bermudagrass. Common bermudagrass has a light green color and coarse texture, while hybrid cultivars have a finer texture and dark green appearance. Common bermudagrass requires less maintenance than hybrid varieties but is less dense with a more sparse appearance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St-Augustine-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nDeep roots are one thing Texans and St. Augustinegrass have in common. This warm-season grass is a popular choice for urban Dallas thanks to its shade tolerance. While the quick-growing grass is easy to establish, it does not stand up well to heavy traffic and might struggle during unusually cold Texas winters.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is dark-emerald to blue-green and coarse-textured. It is not as hardy as other warm-season grass types and is susceptible to disease and pests like chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysia-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThere are around eleven cultivars of Zoysiagrass available in Texas. These grasses tolerate low mow heights, drought, cold, shade, and heavy traffic, and have low fertilization requirements. Cultivars of Zoysiagrass grow densely, blocking out weed growth thanks to thick stiff leaf blades.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is recognizable for its dense appearance and dark green color. Cultivars are not prone to disease or insect infestation but grow slowly.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nTexas native Buffalograss loves to be undisturbed to soak in the Dallas sun. The warm-season grass is drought and cold-tolerant. It requires little fertilization and less mowing than most varieties. Unfortunately, the low-fuss cultivar does not stand up to heavy traffic, shade, or weeds.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss loves hot summers and its gray-green blades are pest and disease resistant.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low — best suited for full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low, but light use or rare heavy use is OK
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency — once per week or less
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches or leave unmowed
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good tolerance against diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Native soils, not sandy soils
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a low-maintenance cultivar, requiring little mowing, fertilization, or water to remain lush and green. The smooth, flat-bladed grass does not handle heavy traffic, shade, cold, or herbicides well.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass has a pronounced light green color and medium texture. The slow-growing grass is prone to pests and disease when improperly maintained or over watered.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow when the Texas temperatures hit 65 degrees Fahrenheit, usually toward the end of February or the beginning of March. The growing season typically ends with your grass going dormant when temperatures drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit around mid-November.
You should plant your grass seed in March or April. This gives the seed plenty of time to germinate before the hot Texas summer.
St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-friendly grass type for Dallas.
Dogs and cats love to soak up the summer sun as much as your Texas plants. If your furry friend spends a lot of time outdoors, bermudagrass is your best option. This variety grows densely, withstands heavy traffic, and recovers quickly when man’s best friend has the urge to dig.
All Texas grass varieties thrive in warm weather, but different cultivars have different characteristics and needs. Choose a variety that works well for your space and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nYour grass variety is just one component of your complete landscape. There are numerous low-maintenance landscaping options available for Dallas. Check out our list of the best native plants that will thrive in the dry summer heat.
\n\n\n\nA lush backyard oasis is within reach. Contact a Dallas lawn care pro today to keep your lawn and landscaping green and healthy.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Michael Barera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Types for Dallas, TX","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4943960149439601,"src":"/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/1789c/Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/107df/Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/293e9/Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/f2cbb/Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/1789c/Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/c26c2/Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/1dd6e/Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/67b76/Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/8df11/Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/98a65/Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/1dd6e/Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/006172dedcf0f6cf1b7ed20b656edef1/3cc96/Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Types for Dallas, TX | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season, drought-tolerant grasses are the best choice for Dallas, and these five species are great options."}}},{"node":{"id":"89d4f5bf-07c5-58c6-b032-db8a18fef31c","slug":"best-grass-types-dearborn","path":"/lawn-care/michigan/dearborn/best-grass-types-dearborn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nick Crawford is a blog writer based in Philadelphia. He enjoys writing just as much as he enjoys reading a good book, cooking, and working out in his spare time.","name":"Nick Crawford","id":"5213edde-9943-5767-a5ae-163493ecfae5","path":"/author/nick-crawford/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7ce3281d49bd9eb99cb1c4f0200247d3?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"3245d8e6-f8d1-5861-b7b9-483ccf7c3781","name":"Dearborn","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/michigan/dearborn/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"75fb394d-179e-5e85-92bb-a24a339af8a6","name":"Michigan","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/michigan/"}],"date":"April 12th, 2023","excerpt":"In Dearborn, we get to enjoy all four seasons to the fullest. So do our plants. The balanced mix of rain, shine, and mild temperature is great for most plants. And candidly, it wouldn’t be fair to live in a plant-friendly city and not have an amazing lawn to flaunt. Four grass types, in particular, […]
\n","content":"\nIn Dearborn, we get to enjoy all four seasons to the fullest. So do our plants. The balanced mix of rain, shine, and mild temperature is great for most plants. And candidly, it wouldn’t be fair to live in a plant-friendly city and not have an amazing lawn to flaunt.
\n\n\n\nFour grass types, in particular, thrive in this environment, and understanding them will help you achieve a fantastic lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThere are generally two categories of grass: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses tend to grow thicker and lusher in warmer climates. However, it can get rather chilly in the Midwest, and Michigan is no exception.
\n\n\n\nProximity to the Great Lakes means a lot of cool breezes, so you’ll want to choose cool-season grasses. These grasses germinate faster and perform better in temperatures between 60 degrees and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, making them well-suited for mild summers.
\n\n\n\nHere are the grass types that will give you an amazing lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky Bluegrass is the most popular and well-known type of turfgrass in Michigan. This cool climate varietal spreads quickly, perhaps even aggressively, in some areas. Its rapid growth allows it to effectively patch bare spots in your lawn, and it provides a visually appealing blue-green turf.
\n\n\n\nWhile Kentucky bluegrass prefers full sun, it can also tolerate light shade and some cloudy days. It performs best in well-drained, fertile soil with a higher pH between 6.0 and 7.0, but it can also grow in the sandier soil of lakeshore regions.
\n\n\n\nHowever, Kentucky bluegrass does not hold up well to foot traffic. And it is a maintenance-intensive grass, requiring constant watering and a lot of fertilizer to thrive. With its shallow roots, bluegrass is also less resistant to drought and heat than other grass types.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes (underground stems)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low (prefers sunlight)
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Medium to high
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFine fescue encompasses several kinds of grass, all of which tolerate shade and drier soil conditions. In fact, numerous grass seed mixtures contain some percentage of fescue with the intent to pass on the species’ shade and drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nThe fescue grasses are Chewings fescue, creeping red fescue, sheep fescue, and hard fescue. Each varietal grows with a gray-green color and a fine texture to its leaves. In addition, fine fescues do not require as much maintenance as other grasses
\n\n\n\nWhile fine fescue benefits many seed mixes, it’s rare to see it grown alone. Overwatering, excessive fertilization, and rapid thatch development can cause thinning in a fine fescue lawn, especially during the summer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Red fescue spread by below-ground rhizomes, while hard and Chewings fescues are bunch-forming and spread through tillers.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a popular cool-season grass that tolerates all but the most severe of cold weather conditions. As indicated by its name, this grass grows taller than most species.
\n\n\n\nOne of the biggest benefits of tall fescue is its ability to control and limit weed growth. Its height allows it to dominate sunlight intake over weeds that may be lurking. In addition, tall fescue is a low-maintenance grass that requires occasional watering and a small amount of fertilization.
\n\n\n\nHowever, tall fescue’s growth rate, combined with its height, means that you will need to mow your lawn more often. And it may not be an ideal choice if you find coarse grass objectionable.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunches, occasionally rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/7370356864_c9e8d6081f_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a hardy and drought-resistant varietal that stays green in dry conditions. Once planted, this grass grows and spreads quickly, allowing it to act as an erosion-controlling factor. In addition, it holds up well to foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nBecause of their similar qualities, perennial ryegrass is often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass to keep your lawn verdant during times when other grass types would typically go dormant.
\n\n\n\nPart of the reason perennial ryegrass is seen in mixes is that despite its resilience, it does not tolerate high heat or intense cold on its own. Ryegrass, alone, also has a poor mowing quality due to its tough, fibrous leaves.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunches
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Very high, including brown patch, red thread, and rust
\n\n\n\nA mix of fine fescue and perennial ryegrass will have the highest chance of maintaining a healthy green color all year round. Both types of grass are drought resistant and complement each other’s strengths while shoring up their weaknesses.
Cool-season grasses perform well in the Michigan climate, and the best time to plant them is mid-to-late fall. The general rule of thumb is to plant cool-season grass at least 45 days before the estimated time of the first frost.
Fine and tall fescues are very easy to maintain. They are both hardy and crowd out weeds, though tall fescue does so better than fine fescue.
To maintain a beautiful lawn in Dearborn, Michigan, you will need to plant cool-season grasses that can stand up to the chill of the Midwest. You’ll also need to take the proper steps to care for that grass once it’s established. If you would like help with mowing, landscaping, and other general yard maintenance, feel free to hire a lawn care professional to put your mind at ease.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Nicole Yeary / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types For Dearborn, Michigan","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.492537313432836,"src":"/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/1789c/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/107df/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg 320w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/293e9/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg 500w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/f2cbb/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg 800w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/1789c/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg 960w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/c26c2/Lawn-in-Dearborn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/1dd6e/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/67b76/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp 320w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/8df11/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp 500w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/98a65/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp 800w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/1dd6e/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp 960w,\n/static/b5c43e79de1ce895dc8124d43345c117/3cc96/Lawn-in-Dearborn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types For Dearborn, Michigan | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you’re living in Dearborn and want your lawn to look stunning, you should know which grasses are best for your area."}}},{"node":{"id":"87d3348f-0de8-5a75-8c39-3d89a6894e1d","slug":"how-to-make-spring-lawn-care-miserable-what-not-to-do-this-spring","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-make-spring-lawn-care-miserable-what-not-to-do-this-spring/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"September 8th, 2018","excerpt":"Ever wondered how your perfect neighbor down the street has a top-notch lawn at the beginning of every spring? Maybe the guy is a former landscaper at Augusta National Golf Club. Or maybe he sold his soul in exchange for the best lawn in your whole county, annually. I’m sure you’d like to believe one […]
\n","content":"Ever wondered how your perfect neighbor down the street has a top-notch lawn at the beginning of every spring? Maybe the guy is a former landscaper at Augusta National Golf Club. Or maybe he sold his soul in exchange for the best lawn in your whole county, annually.
\nI’m sure you’d like to believe one of those possibilities. But most likely, the man simply stays on top of his yard work during the winter time. He is prepared. His reward is not struggling during March and April in order to get his Bermuda lawn back under control.
\nWhile you are missing your kid’s ball games and skipping lake trips to fight off all manner of weeds, “Mr. Yard of the Month” has plenty of time to relax and enjoy his property.
\nSo let’s continue your streak of terrible yard experiences each and every year. Use these tips to make your spring lawn care as miserable as possible, or avoid the satire and follow these laughable statements as what to easily not do.
\nYou know deep down that your Toro mower is not designed to be a wood chipper. But you just can’t help yourself. So keep leaving those fallen tree limbs and branches all over the yard.
\nEven if you don’t want to destroy your mower deck and blades, surely you enjoy picking up limbs on the first sunny day in April, right? It sure beats a trip to your favorite hiking trail.
\nPro tip: It would be a good idea to prune any weak looking limbs during the winter so they don’t add to the fallen branches. Also, protect your eyeballs and prevent concussions. Go ahead and trim those limbs you’ve banged your head on for the past decade.
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/wheelbarrow-full-of-garden-equipment-300x200.jpg\")
Photo: Flickr / Paul Johnson
\nFor me, there is nothing better than saving money with low effort. I don’t like handing hard-earned cash over to the mower repair shop.
\nBut since you want to cause yourself plenty of stress when the flowers bloom, don’t dare winterize your lawn equipment.
\nPro tip: A couple of repair guys told me that ethanol resulted in about 80 percent of their work.
\nNobody has time for fun in the sun come May. Keep yourself busy with nonsense like cleaning out those gutters full of November leaves. Sure, you could have cleaned them out easier when they were 100 percent leaf material. Now they are wet and resemble potting soil as they decomposed over the winter. Have fun with the rubber gloves.
\nAnd most lawn procrastinators will toss the gutter debris right on the grass. That’s a great way to kill off spots of turf as the debris weighs down the young blades of grass.
\nSince you like testing yourself, let those lawn pests build up for a fight. No need battling a few ants when you can let them form an army over the winter.
\nPro tip: Fire ants may be coming to your area soon. They are found in 17 U.S. states currently and only cause $1.2 billion in damage each year.
\nDon’t bother using these tricks to get a jump on lawn pests:
\nYour neighbor with the lush lawn likes pre-emergent herbicides to keep weeds away. But you wouldn’t want to bother with that in the winter. You have better things to do, like watch 23 meaningless college football bowl games.
\nPre-emergents work gradually so they are used by homeowners with patience. Guys who don’t use them end up using post-emergents all spring and summer. It’s a giant time-suck!
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/flower-bed-spring-lawn-care-300x221.jpg\")
Photo: Flickr / danielle_hp
\nLeaves in the flower beds may look festive in the fall, but not in December. It’s a miserable chore to get those soggy leaves out of mulch beds in March. Dry leaves can be blown easily with a blower in the fall. But be prepared to get your hands dirty and blistered with a rake once they have been in the beds for three long months.
\nA proper lawn guy would wait no later than mid-November to clean those flower beds up. You want to have a neat yard when the family visits on Thanksgiving anyway.
\nIt can cost you a pile of money to buy yard tools that you only use once per year. Do you really need a 10-foot extendable gas-powered chainsaw very often? It would be a good plan to get together with five of your buddies from the neighborhood and create a tool co-op. This setup allows you all to use each other’s tools. Most homeowners don’t need ten different lawn tools. Share and save money.
\nBy the way, this is another way to stay connected to your neighbors. Flying solo is unhealthy mentally. Be the lone wolf and enjoy the misery. Or join the pack so you can break your tool addiction.
\nWinter time is a good opportunity to adapt to “The Great Outdoors” of your backyard. If you can come up with ways to enjoy the patio when it’s really cold, then you can enjoy the days in April – September with less than perfect weather. Storms and cold fronts also come in the warmer seasons.
\nBut if you love misery, just stay piled up on the couch all winter. Don’t give any thought to the ways you can heat the patio with a chiminea, natural gas heater, or a simple DIY fireplace. Your pasty skin will be your reward.
\nSince you treat your mower like a tank when in use, you can do the same while it sits idle before spring. It would be a waste of time for you to inspect the tires, right? You never ran over any debris last year I’m sure.
\nPro tip: Even with tough “no-flat” type tires, you may have wheel bearings that get dirty and need greasing.
\nAnd mower belts last forever, don’t they? They must be in great shape even after chips of limbs flew around the belts with your patented wood-chipping style! And since you’re not a mower repair expert, belt replacement will eat up half of your Saturday in early spring.
\nTo make your mowing take longer and damage your grass, don’t even think of sharpening the blades after your last cut in the fall. Just do your usual… buy new blades once you see chunks of metal missing (unsafe… do not do!).
\nThose tips should make your life pretty tough when spring pops up. Maybe you learned this vicious cycle from your dad. You must think it’s a rite of passage to struggle in the springtime with mowing, lawn pests, and running to Home Depot every day.
\nIt is not!
\nJust take a look at “Mr. Yard of the Month” as you drive by this spring. He’s laying up in his hammock, sipping a cold one, and teaching his dog to fetch. He’s also found time to coach his daughter’s softball team to a 5-0 record. And I bet he walks around barefoot on that awesome lawn for the heck of it.
\nThere’s still time for that to be you. All it takes is some attention to your yard when the weather is not so perfect. For additional reading on how to actually take care of your lawn and prepare it for the spring, here a couple resources:
\nLiving in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all […]
\n","content":"\nLiving in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all those nearby public green spaces. Achieve your landscaping ambitions by planting one of the best grass types for Minnesota, detailed below.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses boils down to their distinct biologies, which cause them to complete photosynthesis in different ways. Specifically, the number of carbon atoms the grass type carries during photosynthesis determines the type of weather in which various grass types can grow.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses contain four carbon atoms, meaning they can convert carbon dioxide into oxygen more easily in hot weather, favoring temps up to 95 degrees. Grasses under this classification typically grow from early summer through early fall, as they are drought-tolerant, lovers of full sun, and haters of frigid conditions.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses contain three carbon atoms, making them best suited for temperatures between 65 degrees and 75 degrees. Their prime growing season is from late winter to early spring, as they are unbothered by frost and can withstand shade and colder weather. They also actively grow in autumn.
\n\n\n\nWhile our summers are becoming increasingly warmer, it’s because of Minnesota’s cold winters that the only grass types that can flourish here are cool-season varieties.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Kentucky_Blue_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA favorite of homeowners across Minnesota, Kentucky bluegrass is beloved for its thick, carpet feel; dark green, rounded blades; and blue-tipped seedheads. Germination of this grass species takes place through subterranean stems called rhizomes, which can also help repair the grass if it starts to suffer under heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nThis turfgrass has little tolerance for shade and delights in full sun — as long as it gets plenty of water. Periods of drought are not welcomed by Kentucky bluegrass, but it can survive just fine, falling dormant to protect itself. Of all the cool-season grasses, though, this choice is the best at withstanding the below-freezing temps Minnesota is known for.
\n\n\n\nTo keep this high-maintenance turf in tip-top shape, be sure to seed, fertilize, aerate, dethatch, and use broadleaf weed control as needed between late summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For homeowners living in the Northeast region and Northwest region, an assorted mix of Kentucky bluegrass seed and turf-type tall fescue or perennial ryegrass thrives best; available premixed and bags are typically marked “Northern mixture”
\n\n\n\nRather than a single grass species, fine fescue is actually an umbrella term for a variety of grass types — from creeping red fescue to Chewings fescue to hard fescue to sheep fescue — and each one grows differently, depending on the surrounding conditions. For example, hard fescue and sheep fescue grow best in full sun, while Chewings and creeping red fescue grow really well in shaded areas. Variation is also seen in color, with hues ranging from dark green to light green to blue-green, contingent on type.
\n\n\n\nUnlike Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue loves shade; sandy, rocky, and clay-based soils; is salt-tolerant, and is super low-maintenance — and eco-friendly, as its manual water needs are virtually nonexistent. Area rainfall should more than suffice, and even if a drought comes along, this grass species will be just fine; although, it may go dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nMade up of pointy, but soft, narrow blades that feel smooth to the touch, fine fescue is a barefoot-friendly lawn grass. And while it’s not a fan of heavy foot traffic (think kids and pets regularly running around and playing on it), your lawn should be totally fine for average use.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions; prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well in all regions (Northwest region, Northeast region, Central region, the Metro, Southwest Region, South Central region, and Southeast region), especially when mixed with varieties of fine fescues or with other cool-season grasses
\n\n\n\nFiner than traditional tall fescue (which doesn’t hold up as well in Minnesota winters), this grass species isn’t troubled by heavy foot traffic or drought because of its deep roots. Identified by its emerald green color and coarse texture, turf-type tall fescue is another low-maintenance option and can thrive in either full sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is available to grow bunch-style or with rhizomes and has low water and fertilization needs. Plant as a combination of various turf-type tall fescue cultivars and expect an even deeper root system with stronger drought and disease resistance. You can also blend this type with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-style growth habit or rhizomes, depending on variety
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; grows well in partial shade and full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Weekly mowing; low water and fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2 and 4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained; use fungicide to fight brown patch
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5–7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well statewide. Most cold hardy in the Southeast region.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lolium_perenne_L._Perennial_Ryegrass_-_cultivated_3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Arthur Chapman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-2.0
\n\n\n\nThere’s a semi-quick fix for those bare patches and thinning areas bringing down the aesthetic vibe of your lawn — perennial ryegrass. Quick with the germination process, this fast-growing grass, which spreads via vertical “tillers,” produces a bunch-style growth with wide blades, a dark green hue, and a glossy sheen. While you can plant it on its own, experts suggest combining it with other cool-season grasses, such as turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not the most cold-hardy or drought-resistant of the cool-season grasses, but it does boast some salt tolerance and can withstand heavy foot traffic. This sun-loving grass should be planted in well-drained, fertile soil and must receive regular watering.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements; thatch is not significant
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 1.5 and 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: One of the best grass seeds for Northwest and Northeast regions; higher quality output.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is just what it sounds like — planting seeds over grass that already exists. This is done to fill in bare and thinning spots to produce a thicker, lusher lawn. In the Metro, as well as in other regions of our state, the best time to overseed is in the fall. The lack of extreme temps this time of year will allow optimal germination for the new seeds.
Now that you know the best grass seed to use on your lawn, let’s take a look at the ones you should avoid. When it comes to warm-season grasses, including bermudagrass and Zoysia, none are a fit with Minnesota’s climate.
And while perennial ryegrass is a nice pick for these upper midwestern temps, annual ryegrass is, well, not so much. The latter does not recur like its perennial sister, so it’s usually only used as a temporary cover.
Transforming your yard from traditional lawn to prairie is another sustainable option. In this scenario, you’d use native ornamental grasses as an alternative to turfgrass. Benefits of prairie lands include diverse flora and fauna and low-maintenance landscaping. Here are a few native grasses to use:
• switchgrass
• big bluestem
• Canada wildrye
• blue grama
• prairie dropseed
• yellow-fox sedge
• bottlebrush grass
Your selection of turfgrasses, ornamental grasses, and native plants should take into account the growing conditions of your yard: Is it shade- or sun-heavy? Is the soil rich and fertile or dry and sandy? What about the hardiness zone, maintenance commitment, and types of wildlife you’d like to attract?
\n\n\n\nIf you still have absolutely no clue where to start, hit up spots like Afton State Park and Roscoe Prairie Scientific and Natural Area for inspiration. Need to hire a Minnesota lawn care pro near you to maintain the yard’s new turf? Connect with trusted pros in Minneapolis and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Minnesota Office Building / Ken Lund / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/107df/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/293e9/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/f2cbb/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/c26c2/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/67b76/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/8df11/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/98a65/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/3cc96/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking to redesign your Minnesota landscape but don’t know which grass seed to use? We’ve broken down the four best grass types for Minnesota."}}},{"node":{"id":"c00f4ae4-8c13-5db5-ad78-8f4571f36ebf","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-columbus","path":"/lawn-care/oh/columbus/fall-lawn-care-checklist-columbus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Andie Ioó is a writer for LawnStarter. In her free time, she enjoys traveling with her husband, sports, and trying out new healthy recipes. She also loves reading and watching reruns of classic '90s TV shows.","name":"Andie Ioo","id":"00424d9e-71f7-5a65-a764-eb85c6210e90","path":"/author/andie-ioo/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c7090b8e789516e6df2e9bd1a57a1ece?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"April 12th, 2023","excerpt":"Don’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and […]
\n","content":"\nDon’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and more beautiful lawn come spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll go over:
\n\n\n\nThe cool autumn weather is a great opportunity to fertilize your lawn, control weeds, and improve the overall health and appearance of your Columbus yard. With some effort on your part now, you’ll have a green, healthy carpet by the time spring rolls around.
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEver notice how getting leaves off your lawn immediately boosts your home’s curb appeal? But there’s more to raking leaves than aesthetics.
\n\n\n\nYou can mulch them in your yard to provide some organic nutrients for your soil, but don’t build a thick layer as it can interfere with lawn care treatments and block sunlight. Alternatively, you can gather them up and add them to your compost.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_33362501875_0d0e78d669_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nColumbus residents generally plant cool-season grasses that grow most vigorously in spring and fall. Careful watering in the fall will lead to healthy growth, strong roots, and a good fighting chance for your grass in winter.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn until the first freeze approaches, around October. Cool-season grass needs around 1 inch of water per week, which includes rainfall. Let your lawn guide you and watch for signs of overwatering, such as:
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering is bad for your lawn as well. A lack of regular watering will result in:
\n\n\n\nAs a rule of thumb, try to follow these watering guidelines:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDethatching is the removal of excess thatch (grass clippings, leaves, dead grass, and other organic matter) from your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDethatching is recommended for lawns that are dry, less dense, and unhealthy. It allows nutrients, air, and water to better reach the soil. Not to mention that it keeps pests at bay, which is always a plus.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to dethatch cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue is late August or early September. With proper lawn maintenance, dethatching only needs to be done once every few years.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you need to dethatch:
\n\n\n\nHow to dethatch your lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you dream of a lush lawn, you can’t overlook aeration. When you aerate, you reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizer, air, and water to penetrate your lawn’s root system. It’s best to aerate your cool-season grasses in fall.
\n\n\n\nOften, dethatching and aeration go hand in hand. When you dethatch, you remove the dead layer of matter preventing your soil from getting the proper nutrients. Then, you come in with aeration to help your lawn breathe.
\n\n\n\nAs a homeowner, there are three different types of aeration you should know about.
\n\n\n\nWhen to aerate: August through November are ideal for fall aeration in Columbus. Also, if possible, try to aerate around the time you fertilize to enhance root growth.
\n\n\n\nHow often to aerate: Most lawns benefit from annual aeration, but heavily used lawns may require aeration twice a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat to expect after aeration: Immediately after aeration, your lawn will be covered with the small plugs pulled from the soil, but worry not, as they’ll disappear into the lawn within a week or two.
\n\n\n\nAbout seven to 10 days after aeration, white active root growth will fill the holes – a sign that the grass is getting the necessary nutrients from the soil. With repeated aeration, your lawn will be able to go longer between waterings without wilting and its drought and heat tolerance will improve significantly.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lab](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Soil-Fertility-Analysis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alandmanson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil tests are an excellent investment for lawns, gardens, and landscapes. They’re an inexpensive way to maintain soil health and provide an accurate diagnostic. You can get a complete picture of nutrient levels, also known as N-P-K levels (which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Though these nutrients are always present in your soil, their levels may not be optimal for grass growth.
\n\n\n\nBy having a soil sample tested, you’ll find out:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to have your soil tested, we explain the process below.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to give this process a shot, you can take advantage of the services provided by Ohio State University Extension in Licking County. The university will help you fill out the submission form and send the samples to an accredited lab. Depending on the soil test results, you’ll know what your lawn needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you look out into your yard, the last thing you want to see is brown patches, spots, and weeds. Luckily, overseeding can prevent all of that. It involves adding seed to your existing grass without tearing up the lawn or soil. Simply put, it’s an easy way to fill in bare spots, improve the density of turf, introduce new grass varieties to your lawn, and enhance color.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to overseed in Columbus is mid to late September, prior to the first frost. If you’ve aerated (which is strongly recommended), overseeding should be done within 48 hours to avoid issues such as decomposition of the aeration plugs or debris getting into the holes.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding can:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawns do a lot more for us than provide a green carpet for our toes to glide through. They improve air quality, reduce heat, and generate oxygen, so keeping them in top shape is important. One of the best ways to do that is to fertilize them.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer means knowing what your soil’s exact needs are. If you’re unsure, consider taking some soil samples and sending them out to a lab for testing (Ohio State University offers submission support and helpful information). The diagnostic will provide insight into your soil’s current condition and the correct nutrients it needs to flourish.
\n\n\n\nFor maximum winter hardiness, disease resistance, and root growth, select a fertilizer that has high concentrations of the macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (also known as N-P-K ratio).
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is vital for lawn growth and that lovely green grass color. The percentage of nitrogen is always the first number on a fertilizer bag, followed by phosphorus and potassium. It will always be higher than the others because soils generally contain enough phosphorus and potassium.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: When it comes to new lawns, you should pick a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, to get the lawn established. A typical N-P-K ratio in this case is 12-16-8 or 8-18-12.
\n\n\n\nThe second number represents the percentage of phosphorus. This nutrient is critical in developing and strengthening a healthy root system. Strong grass roots will keep your lawn healthy and sturdy even through the changing stresses of the seasons. It’s important to introduce phosphorus when first establishing turfgrass and continue application as the grass grows.
\n\n\n\nThe last macronutrient vitally important to lawn health is potassium. It supports water absorption, respiration, and protein production. In essence, potassium helps lawns withstand drought, stress, and disease.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers can be slow-release or quick-release.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release fertilizers are much better for your lawn, as they promote steady, uniform growth. As an added bonus, you won’t have to fertilize regularly.
\n\n\n\nQuick-release fertilizers are absorbed at a much faster pace, but there’s a high risk of burning your lawn. Plus, they don’t last as long, so you’ll need to re-apply.
\n\n\n\nWhen to fertilize: Plan for two fertilizer applications between late August and November. Summer heat is stressful on our lawns, so fall’s cooler temperatures provide the perfect opportunity for Columbus lawns to regain strength.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize because:
\n\n\n\nThe best time of day to apply fertilizer is in the morning or early evening. You’ll avoid the warm daytime temperatures that work against the process.
\n\n\n\nHow to fertilize:
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in fall, but did you know that weeds do, as well? There are many types of weeds lurking in our yards just waiting for a chance to sow seed. They’re a pain and can cause issues such as allergic reactions.
\n\n\n\nIn Columbus, you’ll likely encounter nuisances such as:
\n\n\n\nThankfully, there are a few good ways to combat these annoying plants. While fertilizer generally keeps weeds at bay, it may not be enough. Applying pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides is a great way to nip the problem in the bud.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicide acts by creating a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil and coating the seeds to prevent them from growing roots. Make sure it becomes incorporated into the soil via rainfall or irrigation, as it must be present whenever weed seeds are germinating.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It inhibits plant root growth, seed cell division, and specific enzymes critical to the growth of certain plants like weeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply pre-emergent herbicide: Timing is everything. Try to stick to an early to mid-September application and select the right herbicide for your yard.
\n\n\n\nSome weeds will slip past pre-emergent herbicides. In that case, post-emergent herbicide becomes your best friend. It controls weeds that have already germinated and are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It targets specific plant parts, such as leaves and stems. The mixture of chemicals kills the weed and prevents it from growing back.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply post-emergent herbicide: For Columbus cool-season grasses, post-emergents are best applied in early fall when temperatures are at or slightly above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nA non-selective herbicide kills pretty much everything it touches. In contrast, selective herbicide targets specific weed types and leaves other plants alone.
\n\n\n\nWeed control products are generally available in both granular and liquid forms and application varies. Granular herbicide is poured into a spreader and distributed evenly across the area of the lawn. Liquid herbicide is poured into a sprayer and sprayed all over the target area.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA good sign that you need to stop mowing is when your grass stops growing. It’s important that your lawn is cut to the right height before winter.
\n\n\n\nMow too high and your grass can develop snow mold during wintertime. Grass that’s cut too short may wither and die in the cold temperatures of Columbus.
\n\n\n\nOnce frost has arrived, stop mowing. Frost freezes the moisture inside the grass blades, so any activity on your turf can break the blade and significantly damage your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe table below highlights the mowing height appropriate for Columbus cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Suggested Fall Mowing Height |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Fine fescue | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Valve.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnless you properly winterize your irrigation system before winter, you’ll likely end up with cracked pipes and broken sprinkler heads come springtime.
\n\n\n\nColumbus homeowners are advised to winterize their sprinklers in October or early November, before the first freeze.
\n\n\n\nThe winterization process involves:
\n\n\n\nIt depends on how loose your soil is. Grass seeds should be placed on loose, prepared soil. If you simply throw it down, there may be some sprouting, but generally speaking the germination rate won’t be very successful. Taking the time to get your soil ready will ensure optimal results.
Good lawn care leads to a lush, great-looking lawn. Avoid making the following mistakes:
• Mowing too short. This causes your lawn to thin out and provides space for weeds to push through.
• Bagging your clippings. Contrary to popular belief, clippings don’t increase thatch. They provide around 25% of the fertilizer your lawn needs, so don’t deprive your grass of readily available free nutrients.
• Cutting your grass with dull mower blades. Don’t use dull mower blades to mow your lawn as the mower tears the grass blades rather than cutting them. The damage can leave your lawn susceptible to lawn disease.
Chemical fertilizers are generally a ‘quick fix’ solution. They provide the nutrients grass needs, but pollute our water, soil, and the environment within the soil itself. In contrast, organic fertilizers are made from natural ingredients that produce long-lasting feeding for your lawn, making them a much better alternative.
Fall in Columbus is a beautiful sight – the leaves are bright and colorful, the weather is perfect for your favorite sweater, and there are tons of activities to enjoy all week long.
\n\n\n\nBut before you go apple picking and pumpkin patch visiting, get your lawn ready for the long winter ahead. Start planning early to avoid being caught unprepared.
\n\n\n\nStill, if you’d rather go bike riding in one of the city’s metro parks or explore the Columbus zoo and aquarium, a Columbus lawn care pro can get your lawn ready for the cold season so you can continue doing all the things you love.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Ohio State University / Dan Keck / Flickr / CC0 1.0
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\n","content":"\nTexas might be booming, but Austin is on fire. In 2016, Austin was the 3rd fastest growing city and #1 in the rankings for the most new home construction in the United States for good reasons. Not only is the Austin economy on the rise with unemployment dropping, but it also has a happening live music and food scene.
Austin residents enjoy low cost of living with high home values. More and more families are flocking to this area, seeking the diversity and low crime rates. The city also boosts the 3rd lowest crime rate in the country in 2012 – impressive.
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Top Photo: Flickr // Danny Shrode
\n\n\n\nLooking for lawn care service? Check out our Austin, TX lawn care page.
\n","title":"31 Pictures Showing Why Everyone is Moving to Austin, Texas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.673202614379085,"src":"/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/1789c/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/107df/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg 320w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/293e9/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg 500w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/f2cbb/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg 800w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/1789c/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg 960w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/a2a79/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/1dd6e/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/67b76/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp 320w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/8df11/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp 500w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/98a65/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp 800w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/1dd6e/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp 960w,\n/static/d7bf6c9eed1cf949c431bbf01863353a/7aa54/austin-tx-skyline-for-top-31-photos-list.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"31 Pictures Showing Why Everyone is Moving to Austin, Texas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"3b81bd36-8155-58a5-944f-cba74714aff9","slug":"best-grass-types-washington","path":"/lawn-care/wa/best-grass-types-washington/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"7987b7f7-662d-55d4-9011-4af5647aa2dd","name":"Washington","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/wa/"}],"date":"April 29th, 2023","excerpt":"After enjoying the rainforests at Olympic National Park or the stunning waterfall at Snoqualmie Falls, you may want to return home to a landscape just as beautiful and inviting. That’s why we’ve gathered the best grass types for Washington that thrive in the state’s cool weather and rainy conditions. It doesn’t matter if you live […]
\n","content":"\nAfter enjoying the rainforests at Olympic National Park or the stunning waterfall at Snoqualmie Falls, you may want to return home to a landscape just as beautiful and inviting. That’s why we’ve gathered the best grass types for Washington that thrive in the state’s cool weather and rainy conditions.
\n\n\n\nIt doesn’t matter if you live in the rainier, milder climate of western Washington or the drier, colder temperatures of eastern Washington, you’ll find grass with properties that work best for your home and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen choosing a grass type for your lawn, your options include warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Washington has a diverse climate and is broken down into several major regions. Even with the differences in weather, cool-season grasses thrive best in all areas of the state.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in hot, humid climates. They go dormant during the cold winter months, from late autumn through early spring, as temperatures cool. The grass turns brown when the temperatures drop below freezing.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grass thrives best in areas with hot summers and short, mild winters, so most grasses in the southern regions of the country are warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nWhile warm-season grass is green in the summer, cool-season grass is brown and dormant during this time of year. Like warm season-grasses, freezing temperatures send cool-season grasses into dormancy. But cool-season grasses go dormant later in the season than warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grass thrives when air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Another characteristic of cool-season grasses is that they are well-adapted to areas that experience wide variations in temperatures. Because they grow best in cool to mild weather, most grasses in the northern regions of the United States are cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nThe climates in western Washington and eastern Washington are different. Because different climates, soil types, and other factors affect grass health and growth, we identify which grass types are best for each major region:
\n\n\n\nThe most prevalently used grass in the United States is Kentucky bluegrass. It is well adapted to eastern Washington’s soil and extreme temperature fluctuations. However, it’s not well-suited for the soil and mild, cool, and moist climate of western Washington.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass requires a lot of maintenance, like frequent mowing, watering, and fertilization, but the hard work may be worth the benefits. Bluegrass quickly fills in bald patches after a lawn is established. So, if you have bare spots, you may want to consider bluegrass. This grass type also helps prevent erosion.
\n\n\n\nIt has a dark green color and establishes into a lush, dense lawn. Kentucky bluegrass prefers properties that get a lot of sun. If trees or buildings block out the light on your property, fine fescue or tall fescue have more shade tolerance and are better options.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is soft, has moderate foot-traffic tolerance, and recovers quickly from damage. These characteristics have made it a common choice for sports fields in adapted areas. Therefore, Kentucky bluegrass is right at home on properties with homeowners who love to have lawn parties or host play dates full of children playing hide-n-seek across the lawn a few times a month.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and high fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2.5 to 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Used in most pastures in the northeastern part of the country because it tolerates heavy grazing. Varieties developed for lawn use need more watering, dethatching, and fertilization than varieties used for animal feeding.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is an excellent choice for Washington because it thrives in both eastern and western Washington. If you live in the dividing zone of the Cascade range, you’ll have the comfort of knowing this grass is well-suited for both sides of the line.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass mixes well with other grass types like bentgrass, fine fescues, and Kentucky bluegrass. Although Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice for quickly filling in bare spots, ryegrass may be a better option for bald spots or if you need to overseed or start a new lawn. Ryegrass germinates and establishes more quickly than some other grass types, including Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass’s blades are a glossy sheen on one side, and the stem base is reddish-purplish. Perennial has the least shade and drought tolerance of all the grasses on this list. With all of the rain the Cascade range and western Washington receive, a home in these regions will be a good place for this grass variety.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is ideal for those who like to entertain outdoors. It has more wear resistance than other grasses adapted to the Pacific Northwest area. Its fine texture provides a soft landing for falls. If your lawn is host to hide-n-seek games a few days a week, you’ll love perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Helps with weed suppression. Lawns are made more traffic-resistant and disease-resistant when perennial ryegrass is mixed with Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Festuca_arundinacea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bildoj / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is another grass type that homeowners gravitate towards because it grows early and mixes well with other types of grass, like Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass, and turf-type perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners overseeding an existing lawn or filling in blank patches may choose fine fescue over perennial ryegrass or Kentucky bluegrass because fine fescue is the most shade-tolerant of all the cool-season grasses. It’s a better option if your home is significantly shady and plants don’t get much direct sunlight. The chewings variety is the most shade-tolerant fine fescue species.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a blue-green tint. Its fine texture provides a soft cushion for bare feet, but its traffic tolerance is low to moderate. It won’t tolerate routine kickball games or lawn parties.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has low fertilizer, mowing, and watering requirements, so it’s possible to have an immaculate lawn without a lot of work. Its moderate to high-drought tolerance makes it a good selection for the drier Rocky Mountain Region, Plateau Region, and Eastern Cascade Range.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue thrives across the entire Washington area.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Sheep fescue, hard fescue, creeping red fescue, slender creeping red fescue, and chewings fescue are the most commonly used varieties.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3863142192_bea9f90f09_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTall fescue has wide leaves and a dark green, glossy color. It’s well-adapted to cold, heat, and shade. To prevent damage and stress during long dry spells, homeowners need to mow and water tall fescue often.
\n\n\n\nHowever, it won’t need as much irrigation as some other grasses in non-drought conditions, like perennial ryegrass. This is because tall fescue has moderate to high-drought tolerance, making it ideal for the drier eastern Washington area.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue grows well in both eastern and western Washington.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when the grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Some varieties remain green year-round, like Falcon, Olympic, and Houndog.
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/27944336965_d3cbf50ee2_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andreas Rockstein / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nColonial bentgrass has a light green color and dense covering. It grows best when it gets sunlight in the morning and shade in the afternoon and when nights are cool.
\n\n\n\nColonial bentgrass has moderate to high maintenance needs. In addition to requiring mowing at least once weekly, bentgrass also needs to be dethatched, watered, and fertilized often. Although it’s adapted to both the east and west sides of Washington, its high watering needs make it ideal for the heavier rainfall in western Washington and the Cascade region.
\n\n\n\nColonial bentgrass has a soft texture and average foot-traffic tolerance. It’s not the best choice for regular get-togethers on the lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Short rhizomes that may bring about short stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nTraffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high. Best when mowed short, at least once weekly.
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Set the mowing height between 0.5 and 1 inch.
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: Moderate. Susceptible to Fusarium patch in the winter. Vulnerable to Take-all patch when young but severity decreases as turf develops.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates poor soil conditions, but prefers moist and fertile soil.
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Highland Colonial Bentgrass is a cultivar that’s slightly more heat and drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types to grow in Western Washington include:
\n\n\n\nThe mild, cool, and moist climate of western Washington, which includes cities like Tacoma and Seattle, is what cool-season grasses crave. Summer temperatures usually remain at 79 degrees Fahrenheit or below. Although winter days typically don’t fall below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, temperatures can drop into the low 20’s. Cool-season grasses have the necessary hardiness to survive these freezing lows.
\n\n\n\nThe Cascades are somewhat ambiguous, as they separate or sit between eastern and western Washington. The Cascade Mountains divide the state into two major provinces: eastern Washington and western Washington.
\n\n\n\nThe northern part of the mountains is in eastern Washington and includes most of the Columbia River Plateau. The western part of the Cascade range has the greatest population and includes cities like Vancouver, Seattle, Bellingham, Olympia, and Tacoma. The mountains get a lot of snow and rain, making it a wet area.
\n\n\n\nThe following regions are located in western Washington:
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types to grow in eastern Washington include:
\n\n\n\nEastern Washington does not have the wet reputation of western Washington because the Cascades thirstily drink up most of the rain. The eastern side of Washington, which includes cities like Ellensburg, Wenatchee, and the Tri-Cities, has a dry climate and experiences summers and winters with more extreme temperatures. It’s usually between 0 degrees Fahrenheit and the upper 30s in the winter, compared to western winter days that rarely go lower than 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nSummer temperatures average between the high 80s and mid-90s. Although warm-season grasses thrive best in higher temperatures, eastern Washington needs grass types that can withstand its freezing winter days, too. Cool-season grasses grow best in extreme temperatures, so it is best suited for an area like eastern Washington, which battles both extreme heat in the summer and cold in the winter.
\n\n\n\nThe best types of grass for Seattle are the cool-season grasses discussed in this article, except for Kentucky bluegrass. It’s recommended that Kentucky bluegrass be used only as a mixture with other grasses for the western Washington area.
Seattle homeowners are advised not to use Kentucky bluegrass as monostands, meaning it should not be planted as the only grass type. So, fine fescue, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and colonial bentgrass are the best grasses for Seattle.
According to Washington State University, warm-season grasses like Zoysia, St. Augustine, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass are not adapted to Washington’s climate and should not be used.
At the time of that publication, buffalograss was being evaluated for use in the area. A more recent article reported it should not be used in western Washington. It can be used in central Washington, but only in areas that are low to moderately maintained.
Kentucky bluegrass will work for you if you live on the eastern side of the Cascade range. But Kentucky bluegrass is not recommended for western Washington. If you’re not quite sure what side you’re on, or you’re closer to the middle, avoid bluegrass and stick with perennial ryegrass, the fescues, and colonial bentgrass.
There’s not much difference between the grasses that thrive in the different regions of Washington, except for Kentucky bluegrass and colonial bentgrass. Nevertheless, if you live in drier regions like the Rocky Mountain Region and Plateau Region, you may want to choose grasses with the highest drought tolerance, like fine fescue or tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nFungal lawn disease spreads in the humidity and cool temperatures in the Pacific Northwest area west of the Cascades. If you live in this area, opt for grasses that are immune to diseases these conditions cause. For example, perennial ryegrass has good immunity.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to choose grass that is well-suited for your yard’s characteristics and your family’s lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nLooking for a Washington lawn care pro near you? We have trusted lawn care pros in Seattle, Tacoma, Spokane, and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: House Seattle Washington / Wonderlane / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Types for Washington","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5018773466833542,"src":"/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/1789c/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/107df/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/293e9/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/f2cbb/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/1789c/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/c26c2/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/1dd6e/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/67b76/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/8df11/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/98a65/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/1dd6e/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/dcc5705fee323b99d10f2f84d9205b49/3cc96/5846283977_2b596e7bdd_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Types for Washington | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Growing a new lawn in The Evergreen State? This article explores the best grass types within eastern and western Washington."}}},{"node":{"id":"9244667c-3d25-5ede-964a-92e92b3b3df8","slug":"worst-backyard-pests-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/worst-backyard-pests-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Ruma Akter","id":"b4adb332-066f-5309-a11a-ada9d71b73f7","path":"/author/opushaon10/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ebb2426fcf700731e458d89422adc475?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 19th, 2019","excerpt":"Jacksonville’s warm climate is something that backyard pests really appreciate, too. Here’s a list of the biggest pests, and what to do about them.
\n","content":"\nJacksonville’s warm climate and proximity to many bodies of water create the perfect environment for pests. These backyard pests can create many issues for homeowners. Here are some of the worst backyard pests in Jacksonville, and more importantly, how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nYay, Jax! In 2019 the city broke into the list of the top U.S. cities …for mosquitoes. Some people tend to get bitten only a few minutes after stepping outside while others aren’t mosquito magnets at all. Either way, it’s essential to keep the mosquito population down around your home. These bloodsuckers can spread disease and cause significant health problems for your family and pets. There’s no doubt they’re among the worst pests in Jacksonville and one of the deadliest in the world.
\n\n\n\nMake sure to rid your lawn and garden from any standing water where mosquitoes can lay eggs. Buy a mosquito zapper and wear bug repellent while outdoors. Guard the family pooch against heartworms spread by infected mosquitoes as well. Use natural mosquito repellent plants around your home. Catmint, marigolds, and citronella have a scent that bugs mosquitoes.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/c2sdWdrobROzG-bFF6MjtV360OrNNqfe4j_m2OocW71AZDXYMWMG4PXszf8dxZlBEwGzc3c_Voz0VC964QSQGMnSNKLIefrBeSPgZL-D-qizb2tt14TstRkT0-0BlixNc54a4zIZ\")
While these flying lovers aren’t harmful to humans, their sheer numbers can wreak havoc in the Jacksonville area. They are also known as the honeymoon fly, but they’re nothing lovable about them. These bugs mate and then remain attached for several days afterward. Lovebugs are commonly found flooding sides of buildings and splattering across the front of cars.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/TfsJW9tGCddH6YzJVE-Fjio2NpwLdYMxJeyVmndOt83zAGmeW_TADhv8cJoJIUTAqSykzVwg2dx5pOpIIj1beQ52nl-set_T3hjEifv3C7XeFZSEijk8rC9SXCFSCdJyM8TVDLdC\")
2019 was a particularly bad year (actually a good year for the bugs, bad for us,) thanks to a lack of rainfall that encouraged eggs production. There isn’t much you can do to prevent or rid your backyard of these swarms of lovebugs other than use screened-in outdoor areas. Cutting down on piles of plant debris in the yard could also help keep these amorous pests away. They especially like feeding on Brazilian pepper.
\n\n\n\nAny wood structures are targets for termites in the Jacksonville area. It doesn’t take long for these small wood eaters to do some costly damage to homes, garages, sheds, and backyard playgrounds. Walk around any wood structures on your property to look for mud tubes and droppings that look like sawdust. Ridding your property of any wood piles or dead trees is one way to prevent termites from entering your area. If you’ve got an infestation, it’s time to call a professional exterminator.
\n\n\n\nThese small gnats are also known as sand fleas in the Jacksonville area. They tend to hang out on the sandy beaches but can also fly around the city. No-see-ums are usually active in the mornings or late afternoons, and their sting is easy to feel. You’ll most likely feel a no-see-um before you lay eyes on it.
\n\n\n\nApplying insect repellent before going outside is one way to prevent these little critters from causing issues. Carbon dioxide traps are also popular to use in backyards.
\n\n\n\nWhile Florida may be a prime target for many bugs, you can prevent some of the worst pests in Jacksonville from making themselves at home in your home. Keep your grass mowed, and remove any yard debris. Most pests are looking for tall grass and woodpiles to breed and nest. You don’t have to use harmful chemicals to control the pest population, but it will take plenty of perseverance and patience.
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care in Jacksonville? Make sure to check our Jacksonville, FL lawn care page.
A healthy lawn is good for your soul, but lawn care problems are not. Austin is home to Lady Bird Lake, live music, and food truck tacos, but it also has compacted soil, high temperatures, and minimal rain. These factors cause problems that devastate a healthy lawn. Read on to discover how to identify common […]
\n","content":"\nA healthy lawn is good for your soul, but lawn care problems are not. Austin is home to Lady Bird Lake, live music, and food truck tacos, but it also has compacted soil, high temperatures, and minimal rain. These factors cause problems that devastate a healthy lawn. Read on to discover how to identify common lawn care problems in Austin and how to fix them.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll discover:
\n\n\n\nFrom dollar spot to drought, Austin has more than its fair share of lawn problems. Learn how to identify and solve common lawn problems in Austin.
\n\n\n\nWith the high temperatures and minimal rainfall, warm-season grasses thrive best in Austin lawns. However, not all warm-season grass types can handle compacted soils. If you’re having trouble growing a thick lawn, consider switching your grass type.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types for Austin lawns are:
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is light-green and fine-textured. This fast-growing grass is used in home lawns, sports fields, and parks. It has excellent drought tolerance, high traffic tolerance, and low to moderate disease potential. However, it has low shade tolerance and is moderately high maintenance.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass grows quickly, creating a thick, coarsely textured, dark green lawn. Its nickname is “carpet grass” thanks to its dense growth habit. It has good drought tolerance and high shade tolerance but is more vulnerable to chinch bugs than other warm-season cultivars. St. Augustinegrass has low traffic tolerance and high disease potential.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is soft, fine-textured, and gray-green or blue-green. Although slow-growing, it won’t invade flower beds like many fast-growing grass types. It has excellent drought tolerance, very low water needs, and goes dormant later than other warm-season grass types. The downside is it has low traffic and shade tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is emerald green with a medium to fine leaf texture. It grows quickly and stays green longer than most warm-season specimens. It has low to moderate disease potential, great drought tolerance, and moderate to high traffic tolerance. However, it recovers slowly and requires moderate maintenance
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven the healthiest lawns can develop a disease. Once a lawn disease takes hold, the problem continues to worsen until the disease is eradicated. Three factors converge to cause lawn disease:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch causes a smoke ring, resembling a grayish-purple-bordered ring. This fungal disease doesn’t affect grass roots but will infect the blades and leave brown patches in your lawn. It develops with a wet lawn and nighttime temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Brown patch affects bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nTake all patch is a fungal disease that is most active during moist spring’s moderate temperatures. This devastating, hard-to-control disease begins with yellowing leaves and darkening roots. Soon, turf thins as the roots and stolons turn black and die. Take all patch effects bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nIn the spring through fall, dollar spot present as round, white or tan, silver dollar-sized circles. This fungal disease is active when the grass is wet for 10 to 12 hours daily and the nights are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Drainage, mowing, and foot traffic spread dollar spot. This disease affects most grasses, including bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nDuring spring and early summer, gray leaf spot develops on St. Augustinegrass and buffalograss when the temperature is warm, and the grass is moist, especially in shaded areas. The fungus causes oval, tan lesions with brown or purplish borders on the grass blades. When the grass eventually dies, the turf appears burned or scorched.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustine Decline, or SAD, is an incurable viral disease that only affects St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass. At first, SAD resembles nutrient deficiency or insect issues. The grass blades appear spotty, yellow, and weak, and the stolon growth will slow. When fertilizers and fungal treatments do not help your declining turfgrass, it’s probably SAD.
\n\n\n\nRust prefers warm, humid conditions and grass stressed by drought, low nitrogen, and shade. This fungal disease begins as small orange to reddish-brown flecks that enlarge to form small, oval blisters containing powdery orange to reddish-brown spores. The blisters turn black, and the leaf dies. Rust affects Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nThe majority of lawn diseases are fungal, so using a fungicide is the best solution. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions. Too much fungicide burns grass, and too little is ineffective.
\n\n\n\nIf you prefer a natural solution, there are a few options, including:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPests are a nuisance and bad for lawns. There are two types of pests in Austin that cause lawn damage: insects and wildlife.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass are more pest-prone while Zoysiagrass and buffalograss are more resistant. If a problem pops up, act fast before the pests spread, causing irreversible damage.
\n\n\n\nFire ants damage lawns by tunneling and creating ant hills. Their mounds can grow up to 18 inches tall. Apply fire ant bait, following the manufacturer’s directions. Sometimes the colony will abandon the mound and create a new one a few yards away. If this cycle continues, consider hiring a professional to handle the problem.
\n\n\n\nGrubs are small, fat, white, c-shaped beetle larvae with burnt orange heads and six legs near the front of their body. Grubs feast on your grass roots, causing brown spots and dead turf. To eliminate them, use a grub-specific pesticide. For a natural method, apply nematodes or milky spores. Regular dethatching and aeration help by limiting their food supply.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs are tiny black insects with white wings. They suck the sap from the base and stolons of grass blades before injecting a toxic substance that prevents the plant from transporting water. Without water, patches of your lawn turn yellow and eventually die. In the spring, apply preventive insecticides. In the summer and fall, use targeted insecticides.
\n\n\n\nDespite the name, armyworms are dark brown caterpillars with white, orange, or yellow stripes. They devour grass blades. Use commercial-grade pesticides to prevent these invaders, and maintain your lawn, as they like dense, thatched, moist areas.
\n\n\n\nNote: Mow and irrigate your lawn a full twenty-four hours before insecticide applications. It’s best to use a broad-spectrum non-repellent insecticide containing carbaryl or pyrethroid to treat affected areas. Experts advise applying preventative treatments in May and June.
\n\n\n\nDespite being the 10th largest city in the country, Austin has a surprising amount of wildlife. While it’s lovely to see nature’s friends as you bustle about your day, they can pose problems for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDeer are among the most troublesome animals affecting yards. They eat vegetation such as flowers, young leaves, and broad-leaf weeds. Sprinkling dog or human hair around your lawn helps keep them at bay or try a deer-repellent product found at Lowe’s, Tractor Supply, or other home outdoor retailers.
\n\n\n\nRaccoons, skunks, and opossums tear up lawns looking for insects or places to bury nuts. Keep a close eye on insect problems to restrict the food supply for these animals. Apply capsaicin or mint to repel these invaders. However, note that you will need to reapply after rainfall.
\n\n\n\nRabbits love to eat grass, and their concentrated urine causes brown spots. If you notice spots in your area that appear to be mowed down, you may have a rabbit problem. To stop Thumper, spray odors on your grass, like capsaicin, castor oil, or predator urine.
\n\n\n\nNot all tunneling animals will eat your plants and grass, but they do destroy your lawn. Moles won’t eat your lawn, but they love digging for bugs. Voles and gophers feast on grass and roots. Use traps, bait, or repellent. For a natural method, try peppermint oil, castor oil, coyote, cat, and dog urine, garlic, coffee grounds, fish oil, or scented dryer sheets.
\n\n\n\nCats and dogs dig and urinate on lawns and flower beds, causing brown spots. To keep cats and dogs off your lawn, try repellent, motion-activated sprinklers, or ultrasonic devices. For a more natural solution, try using citrus, coffee grounds, vinegar, pipe tobacco, blood meal, or essential oils.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chickweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chickweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds love an unhealthy lawn and signify a deeper problem. To make matters worse, weeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your grass, all while creating an ideal environment for pests and diseases. One of the best ways to control weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are two ways to control weeds: chemical treatments and hand pulling. Often, hand pulling is the safest way to remove weeds. Identify the type of weed before selecting your removal method to ensure proper elimination.
\n\n\n\nFollow these weeding tips:
\n\n\n\nWeeds are everywhere, but some are a bigger pain in the grass than others. Here are a few particularly nasty Austin weeds.
\n\n\n\nAnnual sow thistle grows everywhere, including roadsides, lawns, and gardens. Like dandelions, they have yellow flowers that turn into white, fluffy seeds that attract and harbor pests.
\n\n\n\nChickweed is challenging to remove. One plant has over 25,000 seeds that stay viable for ten years. It grows in a thick mat and is identifiable by its small, smooth, oval-with-a-point leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers. Chickweed sucks the nitrogen from the soil, depleting resources.
\n\n\n\nNutsedge is often declared the world’s worst weed. It resembles grass but grows twice as fast. Its roots are tubers and rhizomatous that grow 6 to 12 inches deep. Nutsedge is horrible because if you rip out the plant, the tubers are left behind to create new plants. To eliminate nutsedge, apply multiple treatments.
\n\n\n\nAlthough there are 35 crabgrass varieties, smooth crabgrass thrives in Austin’s warm weather. It grows everywhere. Smooth crabgrass is low-growing with dull green leaves. It tolerates mowing and produces seeds, making it difficult to eliminate.
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge is a prostrate-growing, groundcover plant. It has small, dark green, oval leaves with a dark red to purple spot in the middle. Spotted Surge is a skin irritant to some people and toxic to some animals.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCompacted soil and thatch will strangle a lawn, but they also attract pests and disease. Unfortunately, Austin’s soil is prone to soil compaction and thatch.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil has pore space that allows water, oxygen, and nutrients to filter to roots. Compacted soil is pressed together, reducing pore space and disallowing roots to grow. Compacted soil stunts and starves grass. It also reduces beneficial earthworm activity, which boosts fertility, breaks down thatch, and improves soil structure.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration relieves compacted soils. It is the process of removing plugs from the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate your lawn. Plugs are about 2 to 3 inches long, three-quarter inches wide, and 3 to 4 inches apart, allowing roots to grow deeply, creating a stronger, more robust lawn. You can purchase or rent an aerator from a home improvement store.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of dead and living roots. You get thatch build-up when turf produces grass faster than it is broken down. Some thatch is good because it insulates the soil and retains water. But thatch over a half inch will reduce water and nutrient absorption, starving your grass.
\n\n\n\nMany Austin lawns are prone to thatch build-up, because:
\n\n\n\nThatch-prone grass types include:
\n\n\n\nTo get rid of thatch, you have a few options. Liquid dethatching increases enzymes and thatch-eating organisms. A dethatching rake works for mild thatch, but if you have moderate build-up or more, use a power-driven dethatcher.
\n\n\n\n![\"Orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Orange-sprinkler-in-dry-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bignai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBeing an Austinite, you know that summers are hot and dry, but sometimes we get even less rain than normal. Like all living things, your grass needs water to survive, so restricted water access causes stress. Grasses turn brown, go dormant, and in extreme cases, die.
\n\n\n\nHere are some best practices for lawn care during a drought:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/heatwave-gb5348e647_1280-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWatering practices have a powerful effect on your lawn’s health. Your grass and native plants are adapted to Austin’s USDA Hardiness Zone, 8, but they still face high temperatures, drought, and water restrictions. Consider investing in an automatic irrigation system that allows you to program it for your lawn’s needs.
\n\n\n\nFollow these tips to get the most out of your watering practices:
\n\n\n\nFollow the water recommendations for common Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Dont-Mow-too-much.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nImproper mowing causes brown, damaged turf. Proper mowing is one of the best ways to maintain a healthy lawn. This means mowing at the right time, the right frequency, and the right height.
\n\n\n\nFollow these mowing tips to maintain a healthy lawn:
\n\n\n\nKnowing when to mow is also critical for a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe frequency of mowing changes with the seasons. Growth rates vary by grass type, but here’s an approximate mowing schedule by season:
\n\n\n\nGrass type is a significant factor for mowing best practices. These are the recommended summer mowing heights and frequencies for popular Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Different-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: evgenyb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you start spreading fertilizer, be sure to understand your soil.
\n\n\n\nAustin has three ecoregions: the Edwards Plateau, the Blackland Prairies, and the Post Oak Savannah Floodplains. Each ecoregion has a different soil type:
\n\n\n\nOther factors that affect soil quality include:
\n\n\n\nKnowing your soil type is essential. Experts recommend getting your soil tested every 1 to 3 years. Once you receive your results, plan a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns need fertilization, but too much will burn the grass. Here are a few fertilizing tips to help you feed your lawn without causing damage:
\n\n\n\nThe average grass needs about 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, but each grass type differs. Here are the typical fertilization needs for common Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"Mushrooms](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Mushrooms-in-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe list of problems a lawn can face is as long as a child’s wish list to Santa. Along with the common lawn problems in this article, lawns can face many more challenges, including:
\n\n\n\nAll of these problems put stress on or kill healthy turfgrass, leaving you with a yellowing, thinning, or patchy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo solve yellow, thinning, or patchy grass, you first need to address the underlying problem. Whether it’s grubs or brown patch, solve the problem before beginning repair. To repair, remove dead grass, apply grass seed, and then water and fertilize as needed. If the underlying problem is the soil, address those needs before planting fresh sod or seed.
\n\n\n\nMany lawn problems that Austin faces can be avoided with routine maintenance. For more information on how to care for your turf, check out our comprehensive guide to summer lawn care in Austin.
\n\n\n\nYes, lawn care chemicals can be dangerous. Herbicides and pesticides were designed to kill insects and broadleaf weeds, and they can be harmful to humans and pets if used incorrectly. However, the EPA maintains that lawn care products used according to the manufacturer’s directions are safe.
However, some studies have shown that some lawn care products can cause health problems. Round-up, for example, has lost multiple lawsuits, and one of its products was banned in France. According to the World Health Organization, the IARC classified glyphosate–many herbicide’s active ingredient–as “probably carcinogenic to humans.”
Regular lawn care should begin at the very beginning of the growing season. In Austin, the growing season starts in February or March, depending on temperatures and the weather.
Yes and no. Some experts cite multiple reasons why lawns are bad for the environment, while others tout their benefits. Here are the environmental pros and cons of home lawns:
Pros
• Lawns are carbon sinks, lowering carbon dioxide and cooling the air
• They prevent erosion and reduce flooding
• Improves water and soil quality
• Reduce noise and light reflection
Cons
• Gas-powered equipment: EPA says 5% of all air pollution comes from lawnmowers
• Synthetic fertilizers: Runoff pollutes local groundwater and other aquatic ecosystems, creating a spike in toxic algae. Soil microbes turn additional synthetic fertilizer into nitrous oxide gas, the third most abundant greenhouse gas.
• Fresh water use: In arid climates, lawns use a lot of fresh water, causing groundwater decline and depletion.
Having a backyard party-worthy lawn takes a lot of work and constant vigilance, but that’s time away from your family, friends, and hobbies. Instead of breaking your back, let Wikilawn set you up with a local lawn care professional. They’ll take care of your lawn problems and maintenance, so you can get back to making memories with your loved ones.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Harry Rose, Macleay Grass Man / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify Common Lawn Care Problems in Austin, TX","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1789c/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/107df/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/293e9/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/f2cbb/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1789c/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/c26c2/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1dd6e/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/67b76/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/8df11/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/98a65/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1dd6e/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/3cc96/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify Common Lawn Care Problems in Austin, TX","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Maintaining a healthy lawn is tricky, and lawn problems make it harder. Discover common lawn care problems in Austin and how to fix them."}}},{"node":{"id":"64429b1f-2f8a-53b3-a1e0-32ebab2dd29c","slug":"lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"The amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do. The city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits […]
\n","content":"\nThe amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do.
\n\n\n\nThe city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits lawn watering between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. each day. This ban exists because of a state requirement for cities to enact a water supply plan. For the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to approve the plan, cities have to adopt several conservation methods. You’ll find similar restrictions in other metro area municipalities.
\n\n\n\nThe suburb of Blaine has the same daytime sprinkling ban in effect from May 15 to Sept. 15. Blaine’s lawn watering restrictions go one step further. People with addresses ending in an odd number can only water on odd-numbered days. Those with addresses ending in an even number only get to water on even-numbered days. This restriction is in place year-round.
\n\n\n\nSo how can Minneapolis and St. Paul get away with no lawn watering restrictions? It’s because most of their water comes from the Mississippi River. The suburbs get their water from underground aquifers which could run dry. According to the Water Treatment and Distribution Services (WTDS), Minneapolis pumps 21 billion gallons of water from the river each year. To make it drinkable, WTDS filters soften and disinfect the water. Fun fact: Minneapolis has more than 1,000 miles of underground water mains. That’s enough to stretch from Minneapolis to Denver.
\n\n\n\nSt. Paul Regional Water Services provides 40 million gallons of water to more than 425,000 customers a day. The city uses similar procedures as Minneapolis to make the water safe for drinking.
\n\n\n\nBoth Minneapolis and St. Paul ask customers to conserve water, even though lawn watering restrictions aren’t in place. Both cities recommend that you water lawns in the morning or evening and not at all when it’s windy. Only water your lawn when it needs it instead of using a fixed schedule and adjust your sprinklers to avoid the sidewalks. Finally, aerate your lawn to allow more water to soak in, and let the grass grow taller during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check with your city or county government for any lawn watering restrictions in your neighborhood. Penalties vary for violating the restrictions in suburban areas. If you live in the Twin Cities proper, join your suburban neighbors by watering smart this summer.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about pest control and prevention in your lawn? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
Houston, we have a problem … a lawn problem. East Texas is humid, rainy, and blazing hot, with frequent hurricanes. Such volatile weather conditions make lawn care difficult but certainly not impossible. Warm-season grasses grow best in hot summer areas, letting them thrive in East Texas’ intense heat. Below are the best grasses for East […]
\n","content":"\nHouston, we have a problem … a lawn problem. East Texas is humid, rainy, and blazing hot, with frequent hurricanes. Such volatile weather conditions make lawn care difficult but certainly not impossible.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow best in hot summer areas, letting them thrive in East Texas’ intense heat. Below are the best grasses for East Texas and its sometimes-intense climate.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is drought-tolerant, moderately shade-tolerant, and cold-tolerant, making it a popular choice for lawns in East Texas. It also handles foot traffic well, so it does well on lawns.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass comes in at least 11 varieties, all used as turfgrass. Some varieties perform better at higher mowing heights, while others have improved shade tolerance. The type of Zoysiagrass you choose depends on your environment and how much work you plan to do.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow about once a week
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCompared to other warm-season grasses, St. Augustinegrass tolerates shade well. It’s drought tolerant as well (although not as much as Zoysiagrass) and can handle being cut at higher heights.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Handles tall mowing heights
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2.5 to 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Centipedegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want a low-maintenance lawn, consider centipedegrass. Centipedegrass performs best in East Texas’ acidic soils and requires little mowing, fertilization, and irrigation. However, it needs irrigation to combat drought (which it can be sensitive to). It also doesn’t like heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow every 7 to 10 days
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is versatile because it tolerates drought and foot traffic exceptionally well. For this reason, it’s perfectly suited for golf courses, athletic fields, and lawns and comes in many varieties.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass isn’t low-maintenance, as it requires frequent mowing and occasional fertilization. It also doesn’t like shady areas, so avoid it if you have a shady backyard.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Both stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nIf you have a shady lawn, St. Augustinegrass is your best bet. Zoysiagrass and centipedegrass are also shade-tolerant, but avoid bermudagrass, which doesn’t like shade.
The most drought-tolerant grasses are St. Augustinegrass and Bermudagrass.
Zoysiagrass only requires mowing once a week, making it the most low-maintenance, but centipedegrass is worth looking into if you don’t mind mowing a little more often (7 to 10 days).
If you plan on having many people and animals on your lawn often, bermudagrass and zoysiagrass are the way to go.
Picking the right grass for your East Texas lawn boils down to your living space and how much work you want to put into your lawn. There isn’t a “one size fits all” type of grass.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re ready with your chosen grass, contact Wikilawn’s lawn care pros, and we’ll give you a green, lush lawn. You won’t need to lift a finger.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Alamo / Nan Palmero / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"The Best Grass for Your East Texas Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/1789c/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/107df/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg 320w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/293e9/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg 500w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/f2cbb/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg 800w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/1789c/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg 960w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/c26c2/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/1dd6e/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/67b76/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp 320w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/8df11/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp 500w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/98a65/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp 800w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/1dd6e/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp 960w,\n/static/b69d46043650923cd64c68d6673fd918/3cc96/The-Alamo-in-Downtown-San-Antonio.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Best Grass for Your East Texas Lawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"East Texas has unpredictable weather and intense heat, but these grasses don’t mind the weather and will thrive in East Texas."}}},{"node":{"id":"6cdf929c-6ad5-577b-95e6-d5fde1b1fb29","slug":"washington-dc-guide-to-watering-the-lawn","path":"/lawn-care/washington-dc/washington-dc-guide-to-watering-the-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"30ecf80b-c320-5679-942e-29dcd7b95c66","name":"Washington DC","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/washington-dc/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Washington DC is a great place to be during springtime and summer with its moderately but not overly hot temperatures. This area is not a stranger to drought, however it usually gets the brunt of its rainfall in the peak of summer (which is great for lawn care). Conserving water has turned into a nationwide […]
\n","content":"\nWashington DC is a great place to be during springtime and summer with its moderately but not overly hot temperatures. This area is not a stranger to drought, however it usually gets the brunt of its rainfall in the peak of summer (which is great for lawn care). Conserving water has turned into a nationwide initiative, so we made an article that outlines tips on how to conserve water while maintaining the beautiful lush lawn that we all strive for.
\n\n\n\nIrrigation can offer a very efficient way in watering the lawn as well as a method for water conservation: if used correctly. Here are some tips in achieving the best irrigation practices.
\n\n\n\nCertain areas of the yard will not need as much water as other parts of the yard. Consider areas of the lawn that need no water at all, including driveways and sidewalks. Avoiding these areas will ensure there is no runoff water from your irrigation system. Heavily shaded areas do not need as much water as highly exposed areas however they will need a moderate amount. Obviously, the most exposed areas of the lawn need the most water. An irrigation system needs to work with these areas and they should be mapped out prior.
\n\n\n\nDrip Irrigation does very well in conserving water. It uses a drip technique that slowly releases water throughout the day, minimizing water lost by evaporation and runoff. These systems do well with smaller lawns or gardens and are not recommended for large lawns.
Automatic sprinkler systems are the most popular form of irrigation system for homeowners. They cover a wide area of land and have timer settings which leaves little to worry about. Homeowners should take into consideration that adjustments will need to be made throughout the year depending on the weather. If used correctly these systems can conserve water, however making sure there is no run off and that the sprinkler doesn’t hit any driveways or sidewalks is very important.
Hand watering can be therapeutic for some people. If hand watering is something you like to do, make sure the lawn is getting enough water and not too much. The soil should be able to give way with the length of a screwdriver an hour after watering. This method works for any lawn, but may take some time with a larger lawn.
For more information on irrigation and a detailed look on irrigation throughout the year click here.
\n\n\n\nIn any region, it is best practice to use native plants and trees of the area. These varieties work well with the climate of the region and do not need much additional water. The sprinkler systems should be geared more towards hydrating the grass and only slightly watering additional plants. Using these types of plants will conserve water and make your irrigation system not work as hard.
\n\n\n\nKeeping the grass at a medium height, at around 1.5- 2 inches, will shade the roots from sun exposure: meaning less water. If the lawn is cut shorter than this it will encourage grass roots to become short and shallow. This is not energy efficient and will require that the grass needs much more water to stay green.
\n\n\n\nEvery household should have a small water collector that measures the amount of rainfall each week. All too often there will be sprinklers running while it is raining. Try not to be this person. Your lawn only needs about an inch of water each week in total.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: You should also keep track of your own water usage around the home. You can do so in Washington DC by clicking here.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to water a lawn is in the morning between the hours of 6 and 10 a.m. You can also water in the evening, however this can lead to over watering of the lawn. The morning is optimal because there is a low evaporation rate and it allows the water to soak into the roots. Any leftover water will quickly be evaporated when the sun rises.
There are currently no water restrictions in Washington D.C. however there is an application that tracks how much water usage you have and alerts you when it is higher than normal.
\n\n\n\nRead more: The District of Columbia Water and Sewer Authority’s Landscaping & Watering Guide
\n\n\n\nStill looking for lawn care advice? Visit our Washington DC lawn care page, it’s the #1 lawn care resource for DC residents on the web!
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Zuzka Grujbárová
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