![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/fKqAFK-BIfeGLfsB02ztqOp27X_hc7_J5yUkbbuOJ4avGMmK6t24WABV03IxEZIkqZT65nDzIVtMIh07lrEzN5fZP7sIKIdhTDGsbESB3Qb_h49ENOJ0DRtodRhn06c7Hg2aJQUz\")
Weeds are troublesome plants growing where we don’t want them, and Houston has plenty of them. They’re classified in several different groups: grasses and broadleaf, and perennials and annuals. Annuals have winter and summer varieties: winter weeds die when it gets hot, and summer annuals die when it cools off in the fall. Many of […]
\n","content":"\nWeeds are troublesome plants growing where we don’t want them, and Houston has plenty of them. They’re classified in several different groups: grasses and broadleaf, and perennials and annuals. Annuals have winter and summer varieties: winter weeds die when it gets hot, and summer annuals die when it cools off in the fall. Many of Houston’s worst weeds are winter annuals because not much plant life holds up in the summer heat. Here are our picks for Houston’s worst weeds:
\n\n\n\nThis pervasive weed looks a lot like the grass in your lawn. It’s not always noticeable if you have St. Augustinegrass, a popular type of lawn grass in Houston. While it’s an annual weed that dies in winter, it’s a prolific seeder, and those seeds can stick around for years. It grows in clumps and will choke out your lawn if not removed
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/FFpSpRfFW2Pzol_KlS6X1A7-x0zyxaClVT-flOoOslcCvy9sNy_ydnFWlmqci6Pi3X4cg2cCKXZMvMkF7ykVLbfBFasdCvAjfA7C2WfbvifMAmVmmbq9GjS-f9Fj2ilRiJawyCpH\")
Bluegrass is a winter annual that’s common in Houston. Its upright tufts stand out in dormant St. Augustine lawns. Don’t confuse it with the Kentucky bluegrass that grows in northern climates – winter bluegrass is its homely relative. It appears when the temperatures begin to cool in the fall. It turns a yellowish-white after seeding, which can happen several times over the winter but usually occurs in the spring. It’s a prolific seeder, so you’ll want to remove it before seeding starts.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/5kplB1mD-VCgQ08Hmqcua5w9UoolnJCB98xN8CVpjuyIcUmEfGW9Zaj2A9Axd2kd-r614PSDQCzhmP__sY5t6wdGRUQNPy3gxtApjI87yq2h-QnM0NtpWuIDIMfKit3Bp7x8_muG\")
This is a newer weed on the Houston lawn scene, and it loves the hot, humid climate. It resembles grass and has a small purple flower. It looks innocent enough but does major damage to a yard in a short amount of time. It kills grass then leaves brown patches when it dies in winter. It can spread from yard to yard with lawn clippings.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/uhx0oMNJUdg3GQ5JuG2aNwQROQvaJqCor9wc1j2RRcy36F9h-74I3MSriqrO90a8xgTH8XcqYSiCKQ5EirdnyW1focBKkbqLa3CzMIKqb09XGzQYYhfotDmRACgNIbeTD3QrSE4Q\")
Like doveweed, this hard-to-control weed appears from May to June and loves Houston’s hot and wet conditions. It also spreads quickly and aggressively, then dies in winter. It’s a low-growing, vine-like weed with tiny white flowers.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IRNj46kd1SLINUuuOhiTa_mbT7PgDQhxFdNfzub3v0YA2o3whSHZqEfP_q2zi3h2k4VMS5Ss4M6QB2GdywZj0DrlOEBLCt_SCZFSaJBFQQqtWlhjh_GN6U8DaM68cte-47sPc5zi\")
Your bare feet will have no problem identifying this waxy winter annual. It fruits in late spring with small, sharp (and painful) barbs. Treat spurweed with a pre-emergent herbicide in the fall when the plants first emerge.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/ihVKW82DGkzDnVGHmzokPzP5g8b3czdeHjIOOAmUagYdLL-eVpzrTVTzHPRT2j-gd89sPe_NwYC3fjGbYORWshC5r-bXqQdM7NElali5LhGyh1w1IZCdXdtflclhCrTNGXZRaM8h\")
Buttercups are a perennial weed with a pretty yellow flower. The name comes from the shiny, waxy appearance of the flower’s petals. They grow and spread in early spring and will take over your garden year after year if not removed. While they’re attractive and grown in some areas as a desired plant, they’re best left out of lawns and gardens.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/v0moNDc_n0hw0Nasljdm4ol652I-iI-VXTBOlhW-rhdCr8DHjqHyNfFsRqpfnWkZ6X5t5ePpA6wvNMjwRN7bPewtPVzZxH406VObvHRmhrvQsvCEDQcbcIsfctJYr4V-Xn6bJZ9P\")
This grass-like weed may drive you nuts because it’s extremely hard to kill. It has thicker leaves at its base than your regular grass and typically grows in groups of three blades. To get rid of it, you have to get rid of the nut at its base. Here’s the hard part: You have to get rid of all the nuts, every single one, or they’ll be back in short order.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Duchesnea_indica9.jpg\")
While it may seem sad to kill anything with the name “strawberry,” this weed will invade your flowerbeds and produce a decidedly not-tasty (but not poisonous) fruit. Mock strawberry is common in wooded areas or open meadows. It has rounded red berries with hard, protruding seeds.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that a healthy lawn is your best defense against weeds. Aerate, fertilize in spring and fall, mow properly and remove thatch. Work with your lawn care service or local nursery on other strategies to control weeds.
\n\n\n\n
Have more questions about lawn care in your lawn? Visit our Houston, TX lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
Choosing the best grass seed for your Iowa lawn can be tricky. On some maps, the state lies just above the northern edge of what is considered the “transition zone” for growing grass, and some maps have the very southern border of Iowa within the transition zone boundary. This can leave homeowners scratching their heads. […]
\n","content":"\nChoosing the best grass seed for your Iowa lawn can be tricky. On some maps, the state lies just above the northern edge of what is considered the “transition zone” for growing grass, and some maps have the very southern border of Iowa within the transition zone boundary.
\n\n\n\nThis can leave homeowners scratching their heads. Is it best to declare yourself a solid Midwesterner and grow cool-season grasses like the North, or should you approach your lawn like homes further south that are classified in the transition zone?
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nBefore jumping headfirst into different grass types, it’s imperative to touch on the transition zone concept, so you understand why you may be facing some challenges when growing grass.
\n\n\n\nThe continental United States is divided into different turf-growing regions based on annual average temperatures and relative humidity levels. It’s similar to USDA growing zones for your ornamental plants but also slightly different. These five regional classifications, though, help homeowners and landscapers decide what type of grass is best.
\n\n\n\nThe area in the central part of the country where 4 of the five regions overlap is known as the transition zone. This 200-mile section runs from the Atlantic Coast to eastern New Mexico and encompasses a range of climates that see weather patterns of the North and South, where temperate and subtropical meet.
\n\n\n\nGrowing grass in the transition zone can be difficult. There isn’t an ideal turfgrass adapted to the climate. Your winter weather may be too cold to maintain warm-season grasses, but warmer summers make it hard to grow cool-season turfgrasses. Unlike Goldilocks’ famed porridge, the temperate is never “just right” for one primary grass type.
\n\n\n\nChoosing whether to go with cool-season or warm-season grass is ultimately a personal decision. It’s helpful to contact your local county extension office for suggestions and talk to your friends and neighbors to see what they grow.
\n\n\n\nNow that you understand the transition zone better, let’s talk cool-season and warm-season grasses. Similar to how plants are classified as annuals or perennials, turf is known as cool-season or warm-season depending on how it grows and what climate it prefers.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses grow across much of the northern part of the country. They are adapted to colder temperatures and can survive being buried under snow during the winter.
\n\n\n\nThey’ll start greening up when temperatures climb into the low 40s and grow like crazy in the spring when soil and air temps are 65 to 75°F. They aren’t suited for the heat, though, and growth will slow down in the summer; they also need more water in July in August to stay green. When the temperatures dip again in the fall, they’ll grow vigorously until October or November, when they go dormant.
\n\n\n\nCommon cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, warm-season grasses are better adapted to the summer heat experienced across southern climates. They thrive when temperatures soar (when they grow the most) and don’t need supplemental irrigation, but their growth falls off once the thermometer drops. They’ll go dormant much earlier in the fall than cool-season types.
\n\n\n\nCommon warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMidwesterners love their Kentucky bluegrass (KBG), and it comes in as our number-one pick for homeowners in Iowa. KBG creates a dense, dark green turf blanket with exceptional winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a cool-season grass that will grow in the sun to partial shade and handles foot traffic well since it spreads via rhizomes. This growth habit does make it slower to germinate and establish, but it’s a fantastic choice for yards with kids and pets.
\n\n\n\nThe shorter root system on KGB makes it less heat tolerant than other turfs, especially warm-season grasses, so you must water it more to keep it green during Iowa summers. That being said, it also needs more frequent mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you need to grow grass quickly, look no further than perennial ryegrass. It’s a cool-season bunchgrass known for its rapid germination (you’ll see sprouts in under a week) that helps this beautiful medium to dark green grass establish rapidly.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass has excellent foot traffic tolerance, making it a number one pick if you have kids or pets running around the yard often. The soft-to-the-touch blades also feel wonderful on bare feet! It will handle the abuse well, but be forewarned, that since it’s a bunchgrass, it can’t self-repair once it thins or becomes damaged. It is also pretty temperamental regarding the cold and may thin out when temps drop below 30°F for long periods.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a cool-season bunchgrass that grows in upright clumps and sends off vertical shoots at the bottom of each bunch. Since it propagates by these tillers, it continuously creates identical clumps of medium to dark green grass. Over time, these clumps grow in size (and spread) to fill in bare spots across the lawn, albeit slowly. Many people choose to reseed to help repair thin areas more quickly..
\n\n\n\nThis grass does well in full sun and will handle partial shade as well, especially if it’s light to moderate afternoon shade. It sends down roots two to three feet into the ground, making it resilient about drought. If you want a low-maintenance lawn that doesn’t need irrigating, tall fescue is a great choice! Especially if your soil is slightly more acidic.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bermudagrass\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Robert McPherson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nComing in as the first warm-season turf species on our list, bermudagrass is a non-native plant commonly used in warmer climates to create beautiful lawns, athletic fields, and fairways. It holds up well to heavy foot traffic and quickly recovers.
\n\n\n\nWhen mowed once or twice a week, irrigated regularly, and fertilized a handful of times during the year, you can grow a stunning bermudagrass lawn. Many homeowners opt to cultivate an improved common variety instead of a hybrid species, as the improved common types require a little less routine maintenance. The common variety does provide a slightly lower quality lawn, compared to the hybrids that are finer textured.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a good warm-season grass for the transition zone because of its cold tolerance. Of all the grasses for warm climates, it can handle the lowest temperatures with the fewest adverse effects. It also handles some shade and a fair amount of foot traffic. Zoysia japonica is one of two widely grown Zoysia species in the United States.
\n\n\n\nThe coarse-textured, light green grass is slow to germinate and establish, so it is often started by plugs or laying sod instead of seeding. But it does love the summer heat and will grow vigorously when temperatures are hot to produce a dense, attractive lawn.
\n\n\n\nOne of the most significant drawbacks to growing Zoysia is its need to be dethatched or power-raked every year or two. It develops thatch quickly, and when left on the soil surface, this layer of debris can increase disease and insect problems and may prevent water, nutrients, and air from moving down into the root zone.
\n\n\n\n![\"California](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/UC-Verde-Buffalograss-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nComing in as our honorable mention, buffalograss is a warm-season grass species that is often used as a turfgrass. This native US species has been historically used for pastures and grazing, but its low-maintenance needs make it popular with homeowners looking for an easy-to-care-for lawn. While a warm-season turf, it has good drought tolerance and better cold resistance than some others.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is a fantastic choice if you’re looking for a sustainable lawn option with a traditional turf aesthetic. The finely textured perennial grass is one of the few native prairie grasses that forms a soft, dense sod that creates a suitable lawn with minimal mowing.
\n\n\n\nGrowth will slow a bit if you’re trying to grow it in a shady location, and it will start entering dormancy as soon as the first autumn frost hits.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no doubt you have plenty of options to choose from in terms of grasses for your Iowa lawn. The most important part when picking a turfgrass is to find something that thrives in your yard. With this in mind, make sure to consider the three main things.
\n\n\n\nHow much sun does your yard get?
\n\n\n\nFirst and foremost, this should be the most critical consideration. You have to match your turf to your yard’s sun exposure.
\n\n\n\nIf you have a yard that gets plenty of sunlight all day and isn’t shaded by your neighbor’s house or large trees, opt for Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, bermudagrass, or buffalograss that love full sun.
\n\n\n\nIf your yard is shaded by a privacy fence or a large apartment building next door, you’ll want to go with tall fescue since it is happy to grow in the shade.
\n\n\n\nStick with zoysia or tall fescue if your yard mixes sun and shade.
\n\n\n\nIs your yard a raceway, or is there minimal foot traffic?
\n\n\n\nMatching the activity in your yard to how it handles foot traffic is also essential. If you always have dogs or kids running through the grass, you’ll want cool-season perennial ryegrass, tall fescue (or a blend with either), warm-season bermudagrass, and zoysia.
\n\n\n\nIf foot traffic isn’t a concern, you should stick with Kentucky bluegrass or buffalograss, which doesn’t stand up well to frequent activity.
\n\n\n\nWhat are your availability and desire?
\n\n\n\nLet’s also be honest about how much time and energy you will put into keeping your lawn looking good. For people that like mowing, weeding, and fertilizing, you’ll be rewarded with a phenomenal yard if you choose Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, Bermuda, or zoysiagrass. However, if you’d rather do anything besides mowing, you will be best off planting lower-maintenance buffalograss or tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners across the Midwest (and other parts of the country) often grow lawns containing a blend of different turf types. The genetic diversity of two or three grass types is fantastic if your yard is a mix of shade and sun because you’ll benefit from the different species. You’ll often see better disease, insect, and drought resistance.
\n\n\n\nThe problem, though, is that you are severely limited when buying warm-season grass blends. It’s not uncommon to find a mix of Bermudagrass cultivars but not a blend containing Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, and St. Augustine grass.
\n\n\n\nSince there’s such a marked difference in the traits—color, shade tolerance, watering needs—of the different warm-season grasses, they typically aren’t blended.
\n\n\n\nWhatever you do, don’t try to get fancy and blend warm-season and cool-season grass types. You’ll likely end up with a lawn that has patches of different textures and colors.
\n\n\n\nThe goal of seeding a new lawn or overseeing your established yard is to throw seed down just before the grass usually kicks growth into high gear for the season.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Cool-season grasses are best seeded between August 15 and October 1. They’ll have about six weeks to grow before the first fall frost. Warm-season grasses are best planted between April 15 and June 10. They’ll germinate and have a few weeks of solid growth before it gets hot.
\n\n\n\nThese timelines aren’t set in stone. They’re just the recommended dates for best germination and optimal establishment.
\n\n\n\nWhen you plant depends on your regional climate and the turfgrass type you’re growing. It’s best to plant cool-season grasses in the fall in northern regions. You want to wait for hot summer temperatures to subside, but give the grass time to establish before the first fall frost. In the south, the best time to plant warm-season turfgrasses is in late spring or early summer, just as the temperatures begin warming up. In the transition zone, you sow based on the type of grass you’re growing.
Warm-season turfgrasses need hot summer temperatures and mild winters without snow; they grow mainly in the southern United States. Cool-season grasses need more temperate summer conditions but can survive harsh winters; they grow primarily in the northern United States. Both types will grow in the transition zone, but the mixed climate presents some challenges.
Ideally, you want to get cool-season grass seed down at least six weeks before your area’s first anticipated hard freeze. Your grass then has about a month to establish roots and prepare itself before it goes dormant. It’s similar for warm-season grass types, but they’ll do better planted earlier in the fall.
Remember that warm-season grasses stop growing once temperatures are below 55°F, and cool-season grasses won’t grow if temperatures are below 40 or 42°F. If you don’t hit that cutoff, you’ll have lackluster growth, and your grass might not be robust enough to survive the winter.
Being stuck in the middle is never fun, which certainly applies to homeowners bordering the transition zone’s edge. It can be tricky enough to establish a new lawn or reseed one that’s struggling without the woes of whether to plant warm-season or cool-season grasses. Hopefully, this guide helps you make a decision that you feel confident about, and you’ll have a gorgeous new yard in no time.
\n\n\n\nBut don’t fret if you’re still unsure! The WikiLawn experts want you to have a yard that makes your neighbors green with envy. If you need help choosing grass seed or finding highly-rated landscape professionals, we’re here to help!
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Bayliss Park in downtown Council Bluffs, Iowa / Smallbones / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Seeds for Your Iowa Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/1789c/Bayliss-Park.jpg","srcSet":"/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/107df/Bayliss-Park.jpg 320w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/293e9/Bayliss-Park.jpg 500w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/f2cbb/Bayliss-Park.jpg 800w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/1789c/Bayliss-Park.jpg 960w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/c26c2/Bayliss-Park.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/1dd6e/Bayliss-Park.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/67b76/Bayliss-Park.webp 320w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/8df11/Bayliss-Park.webp 500w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/98a65/Bayliss-Park.webp 800w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/1dd6e/Bayliss-Park.webp 960w,\n/static/051b7a90fea7cd4d6afdd865efe24e23/3cc96/Bayliss-Park.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 6 Best Grass Seeds for Iowa","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Grass is so much easier to grow and maintain if you start with a variety that is hardy and well-adapted to Iowa's varying weather conditions. Here are six."}}},{"node":{"id":"7ae7cbeb-9983-5aef-a412-86ed8f13ca72","slug":"common-lawn-weeds-ohio","path":"/lawn-care/oh/common-lawn-weeds-ohio/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"May 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Weeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both. In this article: How Weeds Harm Your Ohio Lawn? Weeds steal […]
\n","content":"\nWeeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal water, air, and nutrients from your grass and desirable plants. If there are weeds on your lawn when you fertilize them, they will quickly soak the nutrients, leaving your grass weak and prone to diseases and pests.
\n\n\n\nWeeds spread quicker than you’d imagine. So, take immediate action when you spot them. Weeds love low-nitrogen soils and thinning grass. With routine lawn maintenance, you can keep weeds under check.
\n\n\n\nYou can kill weeds with the good old hand-pulling technique and herbicides.
\n\n\n\nIf you have only a few weeds, it’s best to get rid of them by hand weeding. When pulling a weed, make sure to remove it entirely with the roots. Also, don’t forget to wear gloves, as many weeds cause skin irritation.
\n\n\n\nWeeds like dandelions have a taproot system, which can be hard to remove. You can use a dandelion fork or screwdriver to pry them loose.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf you want to control weeds before they germinate, using pre-emergent herbicides is the only way. They kill the infant root system, preventing the weeds from growing. Early spring is the best time to apply pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides are available in both granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf the weeds have already started to show up and there are too many of them to pluck by hand, use post-emergent herbicides. The weeds absorb the herbicide and die as the chemical travels down the root system. Post-emergent herbicides come in granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergents is when the weed is actively growing, usually during the spring.
\n\n\n\nNote: Avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day to prevent harming other ornamental plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Dandelion-Taraxacum-Officinale.jpg\")
Photo Credit: AnemoneProjectors / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nDandelions look good and actually have many medicinal benefits. But they’re invasive and can take over your lawn in no time. Dandelions usually start growing during spring, producing bright yellow ray flowers. These flowers mature into fluffy, white seeds that disperse by the wind.
\n\n\n\nYou can apply pre-emergent herbicides during early spring to prevent dandelions from germinating. This weed has a strong taproot, penetrating the soil up to 18 inches. Removing it by hand is very difficult, so we recommend using post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide (prodiamine), post-emergent herbicide (triclopyr)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Spotted-Spurge-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge is a low-growing, short-lived annual broadleaf plant with a mat-like growth habit. The stems of this plant choke desirable grasses. So, it’s not something you want to have on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge has a long taproot, making it difficult to remove manually. So, using herbicides is a more practical option. Spurge usually affects thinning grass. With proper fertilization, irrigation, and mowing, you can prevent this weed altogether.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; dry, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (pendimethalin), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellowe](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Black-Medic-Medicago-Lupulina.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBlack medic is a low-growing, short-lived perennial that produces small yellow flowers in clover-like clusters. It’s hairy, particularly the stems. The oval-shaped leaves grow in groups of three. Hand weeding works well for removing black medic as it grows from a central location.
\n\n\n\nBlack medic only affects compacted soil, so if you spot this weed in your lawn, it indicates that your grass needs aeration.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained fertile soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Knotweed-Reynoutria-Japonica.jpg\")
Photo Credit: W.carter / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed spreads quickly and grows fast. It reaches up to 15 feet in height, suppressing the growth of your turf grass and other plants. Removing Japanese knotweed by hand is next to impossible. In fact, even with herbicides, it takes about three years to eliminate Japanese knotweed.
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed starts growing during summer. Applying pre-emergent herbicides in early spring can prevent it from germinating.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (prodiamine), post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yellow-Woodsorrel-Oxalis-Stricta.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dcrjsr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel has clover-shaped leaves that remain open during the day and fold at night. It blooms from mid-spring to fall, producing small, five-petaled yellow flowers. Common yellow woodsorrel grows best in partial shade and moist soil but is highly adaptable and can withstand various conditions.
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel can be removed manually or using post-emergent herbicides that contain triclopyr. Late spring is the best time to use these herbicides as the weed will still be small.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Buckhorn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Buckhorn-Plantain-Plantago-Lanceolata.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBuckhorn plantain is easy to identify from its narrow, lance-like leaves and tall flower stalks. It usually grows in compacted soil and poorly irrigated lawns. Aerating your lawn and correctly watering it can help prevent this weed from growing.
\n\n\n\nLike some of the other weeds on this list, buckhorn plantain has a taproot system, making it difficult to remove with your hands. However, many herbicides effectively work against this weed.
\n\n\n\nFun fact: Buckhorn plantain can reduce the pain of insect stings because it contains antiseptic alkaloids.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; sandy, dry, low fertility soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/White-Clover-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nWhite clover is an attractive broadleaf perennial that blooms from mid-spring to late summer, producing small, white flowers that bees love. It also has many benefits. However, white clover is invasive and can quickly take over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover usually grows in areas with partial shade, but you can also find it in sunny spots. You can use post-emergent herbicides to get rid of this weed or remove it manually.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (isoxaben), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Puple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Ground-Ivy-Glechoma-Hederacea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nGround-ivy, otherwise known as creeping Charlie, spreads vigorously, choking your grass and ornamental plants. It has aromatic, fan-shaped leaves with scalloped edges. It also features funnel-shaped, purplish flowers near the tip.
\n\n\n\nIf ground-ivy is affecting only part of your lawn, it’s best to remove it manually. You can use post-emergent herbicides if there are too many of them. Also, don’t forget to apply pre-emergent herbicides in the upcoming spring to prevent this pesky invader from coming back.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial to full shade; damp, clay soil with good fertility
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chickweed-Stellaria-Media.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean and Fred Hort / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nChickweed is a low-growing perennial that produces star-shaped, white flowers during spring. This weed affects compacted soil, so, aerating your lawn at the correct intervals can prevent chickweed from sprouting.
\n\n\n\nChickweed is hard to get rid of completely. You can remove it manually along with the roots and apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring to prevent it from returning.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; rich, moist, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Crabgrass-Digitaria-Sanguinalis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rasbak / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass is among the most common weeds in Ohio. Many homeowners mistake it for their grass, especially fescues, but it is thicker and a darker green.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass only spreads by seeds and not rhizomes. So using pre-emergent herbicides prevents the seeds from germinating. If crabgrass is already growing, remove it by hand or use post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Bull](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bull-Thistle-Cirsium-Vulgare.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ron Clausen / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nBull thistle is a fast-growing perennial weed that thrives in moderately moist soil. It flowers from early summer to fall, producing bright pink flowers. The leaves have long, sharp spines, so be cautious when removing this weed manually.
\n\n\n\nYou can use post-emergent herbicides after bull thistle flowers to eradicate it. Also, it’s easy to prevent this weed from spreading as it doesn’t have rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Biennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 2 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; moderately moist, nitrogen-rich soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Slender-Speedwell-Veronica-Filiformis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell is a low-growing plant with a mat-like growth habit. You can identify it with its small, kidney-shaped leaves and lilac blue four-petal flowers that appear during spring. Slender speedwell may look beautiful, but it spreads very fast. You can remove it manually or use herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell usually attacks weak turf. So, with proper fertilization, aeration, and mowing, you can prevent this pesky invader from returning. Don’t forget to use pre-emergents during early spring.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Different](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Purslane-Portulaca-Oleracea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mokkie / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane is a low-growing plant with red multi-branched stems and succulent leaves. It has a mat-like growth habit and produces small, star-shaped yellow flowers with five petals.
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane has a long taproot system, so hand-weeding can be difficult yet effective. You can also use post-emergent herbicides with dicamba to eliminate common purslane. To prevent this weed from coming back, apply pre-emergent herbicides with dithiopyr.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (dicamba), hand removal
\n\n\n\nIt’s nearly impossible to achieve a weed-free lawn. But, with proper maintenance and by applying pre-emergent herbicides, you can prevent weeds from germinating to a great extent.
Preventing weeds altogether is next to impossible as they are inevitable. But here are some tips to achieve an almost weed-free lawn.
• Test your soil and fertilize your lawn with the nutrients it needs.
• Apply a thick layer of organic mulch around your flower bed. Mulch deprives weeds of light, preventing these pesky invaders from germinating.
• Apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring.
• Weeds love the sun, so grow ornamental plants close together to crowd out weeds.
• If you notice a weed, pull it out from its root to prevent it from spreading.
Selective herbicides work against a particular weed. Non-selective herbicides work against many weeds. But they can also harm beneficial plants. So, use them with caution.
No one likes weeds. If you want to prevent these pesky invaders from growing on your lawn, routine lawn maintenance is a must. Also, when you spot a weed, remove it immediately to stop spreading.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help eliminating the weeds taking over your beautiful lawn, call Wikilawn Ohio lawn care pros. We can also help you with your routine lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"13 Most Common Lawn Weeds in Ohio (And How To Control Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1789c/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg","srcSet":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/107df/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 320w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/293e9/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 500w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/f2cbb/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 800w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1789c/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 960w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/c26c2/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1dd6e/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/67b76/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 320w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/8df11/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 500w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/98a65/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 800w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1dd6e/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 960w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/3cc96/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"13 Most Common Lawn Weeds in Ohio (And How To Control Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Weeds can take over your lawn quicker than you'd imagine. Here are some common lawn weeds in Ohio and measures to control them."}}},{"node":{"id":"7a9468f8-d9d2-55f4-98e0-b5ebd5b69905","slug":"kansas-city-watering-restrictions","path":"/lawn-care/mo/kansas-city/kansas-city-watering-restrictions/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"05d0f445-881a-5277-b62a-ce38f7c7af9f","name":"Kansas City","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mo/kansas-city/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"08e64923-2067-5321-ba20-42c35858c2cd","name":"Missouri","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mo/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2019","excerpt":"There are no current watering restrictions in Kansas City, which gets an abundant supply of water from the Missouri River. But conservation is still a good idea.
\n","content":"\nUnlike many other cities across the United States, Kansas City is in a fortunate position when it comes to water supply. The Missouri River provides an abundance of water flowing through the metropolitan area — more than enough to provide for Kansas City’s drinking and irrigation needs, without the need for water restrictions.
\n\n\n\nBut during hot, dry summers and periods of unexpected drought, the KC Water division will put the kibosh on your watering plans. While the city can usually handle its water needs, you’ll want to keep your eyes and ears open for news of any watering restrictions in Kansas City, Mo.
\n\n\n\nThe city treats and distributes water to 170,000 residences and businesses in greater Kansas City, as well as 32 wholesale customers in the metro area. The water division is now working on system development plans for expected growth within the region.
\n\n\n\nMunicipalities within a short drive from KC are likely to have watering restrictions when water treatment facilities hit their near-capacity for several days in a row. This sometimes happens in Gardner, Kansas. When the Hillsdale Water Treatment Facility operates at more than 90 percent capacity for five days straight, Gardner will issue the following mandatory water cutbacks:
\n\n\n\nLawn watering and car washing for even-numbered addresses are OK in Gardner before 10 a.m. and after 9 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. Homeowners whose addresses end in odd numbers may water on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. When it comes to refilling a swimming pool, you can do that only one evening a week after sunset. Want to completely fill a privately owned pool? That will have to wait until the city lifts the watering ban.
\n\n\n\nNearby Cameron, Mo., has seen its share of drought during the last few summers. Even with four reservoirs, mandatory water restrictions go into effect during these droughts and high usage. Cameron is part of the Tri-State Water Resource Coalition, which is building new water lines for surrounding areas.
\n\n\n\nIt’s easy to forget that water is a precious resource. There are several ways to preserve this liquid gold:
\n\n\n\nA single person uses about 100 gallons of water a day to drink, bathe, perform personal hygiene, and clean their house. That number goes up significantly when you water the lawn or fill the swimming pool.
\n\n\n\nThe best reason to conserve water is so that we don’t run out. This is a community-wide effort because it’s easy to assume the tap will continue to flow, even in severe drought. Your water company does its best to fulfill demand, but it cannot control the weather. Another reason to cut back on water and energy usage is more tangible. Who doesn’t want lower utility bills?
\n\n\n\nYour water division is working on long-term projects to improve the water main lines. Updating the infrastructure of KC includes improving sewers and wastewater treatment. The city gets its drinking water from the Missouri River and surrounding floodplain. It’s cleaned and sanitized from lawn fertilizers, oil, dirt, pet waste and whatever other pollutants it picks up along the way.
\n\n\n\nIf you have questions about Kansas City tap water, or if there are restrictions in place, the division is open during regular business hours.
\n\n\n\nDo you have questions about lawn care and gardening in Kansas City? Visit our Kansas City lawn care page.
If you’ve been thinking of ways to ditch the gas-guzzling lawn mower in favor of an environmentally friendly way of mowing your lawn, you’re hardly alone. Sure, you could use an old-fashioned reel lawn mower, but another lawn care option threatens to put mowing crews out of business: lawn goats. But before you head to […]
\n","content":"\nIf you’ve been thinking of ways to ditch the gas-guzzling lawn mower in favor of an environmentally friendly way of mowing your lawn, you’re hardly alone. Sure, you could use an old-fashioned reel lawn mower, but another lawn care option threatens to put mowing crews out of business: lawn goats.
\n\n\n\nBut before you head to the livestock auction, take a minute to learn about these mammalian mowing machines and decide if they’re right for you. You may want to start out by renting a goat. A simple Google search reveals that rent-a-goat businesses are everywhere, spinning the labor of grazers into gold.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/goat-2089809_needpix-1024x682.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/PIXNIO-28965-goat-eating-forest.jpeg\")
Goats are not exactly the lawn mowing masters people like to make them out to be. Your average goats will eat everything but grass before they even glance down at the turf beneath their hooves. Goats eat poison ivy, poison oak, brambles, and invasive kudzu with gusto. They’ll pull branches from trees and take down saplings through a combination of trampling and devouring. Think of them as a string trimmer with no boundaries, which makes them extremely effective at brush control. When you hear about Google renting goats to mow its Mountain View, Calif., campus, it’s a little misleading. The goats are not creating a manicured lawn, but are rather being used for their abilities to clear brush efficiently.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to not being selective, goats are also not very savvy about what they shouldn’t eat. They’ll destroy your ornamental flower beds and strip the bark off trees, killing them. But they will also eat poisonous plants, which can mean killing themselves. Tammy Dunakin of Rent-a-Ruminant in Seattle laments that goats “won’t eat tin cans or other litter. Only paper and vegetation,” she says, adding that the herd works on their own time: “goat time.”
\n\n\n\nIf you still think goats are a sensible approach to lawn care for your yard, then make sure you understand a few critical facts about them. First, you’ll need more than one. Goats are social animals that belong in a herd. A solo goat is a sad, lonely, and shockingly loud creature. Let’s say you want a pair of goats to manage your property. If you want them to perform a stellar job of managing your lawn, you’re going to have to provide them with a few essentials.
\n\n\n\nGood fencing makes good neighbors and good goats. It’s critical for controlling what the animal eats. Electric net fencing is ideal because you can move it around to do rotational grazing and use it to protect trees and flower beds. Goats need lots of water, so they need a bucket close by at all times. And as much as you want your goats to focus all their efforts on your yard, they’ll need another food source, too. Most goat owners feed supplemental pellets to make sure the animal is getting enough nutrition.
\n\n\n\nGoats evolved to eat a wildly varied diet, and grass alone isn’t sufficient. They also need a mineral block similar to a salt lick but specially formulated for goats. Goats need their hooves trimmed at least once a month, so you’ll need to learn how to handle hoof trimming tools and rowdy animals. Finally, goats need a warm, dry place to shelter from rain and sleep at night.
Goat lawn care is not for everyone, but if your property is riddled with blackberry brambles, brush, and other nasty overgrowths, it may be for you. On the other hand, if you’re just trying to keep the weeds under control, you may be better off with backyard chickens.
Lawn grubs are a part of the ecosystem. And, of course, we want to preserve the ecosystem. But too much of anything can be a bad thing. Grub worms become a problem when there is a large grub population. They eat grass roots, weakening the bond between the grass and roots and ultimately killing the […]
\n","content":"\nLawn grubs are a part of the ecosystem. And, of course, we want to preserve the ecosystem. But too much of anything can be a bad thing. Grub worms become a problem when there is a large grub population. They eat grass roots, weakening the bond between the grass and roots and ultimately killing the grass. This article tells you how to get rid of grubs in your lawn using natural methods and conventional chemicals.
\n\n\nGrubs are the larvae of beetles like June bugs, Japanese beetles, and June beetles. After the beetles lay eggs, they hatch into larvae that feed on grass roots and need moisture to survive. They are slimy-looking, squishy, and C-shaped, with legs close to their brown heads.
\n\n\n![\"Japanese](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/aa92a5f5-8ab5-406e-a721-72ac486709fc.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nThe eggs hatch, and the white grubs become active in the spring and summer. In the fall, they feed and tunnel further into the soil for protection against upcoming winter weather.
\n\n\n\nGrubs do more than make your grass look unhealthy. By weakening the bond between the grass and grass roots, grubs cause your grass to become unstable. When pulled, patches of grass come up easily and roll up like a carpet. Grass will quickly die once the roots are severed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are a few telltale signs of lawn grubs, like increased animal activity, as critters like skunks and raccoons flock to your yard to feed on the grub worms.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs dig into grass roots and cause dead patches. Multiple dead patches that do not improve can be a sign of a grub infestation. Although brown patches can be a sign of lawn disease or drought, they are also a major indicator that grub control may be needed if the grass pulls up easily. Remember, patches of grass will roll up like carpet if there is grub damage.
\n\n\n\nBefore you start the process to get rid of grubs, test your yard to make sure grubs are the problem:
\n\n\n\n— In the suspected area, dig up 1 square foot that is about 3 inches deep.
— If you see 5 or fewer grubs, your lawn is normal. Treatment is unnecessary.
— Unhealthy grass will require grub control if there are five to 10 grubs in a single square foot.
— If you see more than 10 grubs, your infestation qualifies as severe, and you may need professional help to treat it.
You can kill grubs without injuring beneficial insects by using organic methods. Natural treatment can take several years, but you, your loved ones, and the environment will be safer for it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"beneficial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/85f15946-4a9d-4367-824e-fec8e65433b8.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nThese microscopic worms are natural parasites that kill grubs by releasing bacteria. They naturally live in the soil. Homeowners can purchase them at retailers like Walmart and even online from Amazon. Use them soon after purchase, before they die. Water the grass before and after you release the beneficial nematodes into the lawn. The best time to apply the worms is in the afternoon.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMilky spore comes in powder form and can be sprinkled on the lawn. It is a bacterial disease that only kills Japanese beetle grubs. It can take many years for this bacterium to get rid of grubs.
\n\n\n\nTypically, milky spore can be purchased at the same locations as beneficial nematodes. You can find them online at Home Depot and Amazon.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHomeowners can control grubs with a DIY neem oil solution. Neem oil naturally contains ingredients that act as pesticides, like Azadirachtin.
\n\n\n\nRecipe and Directions. Mix 1 teaspoon of pure Castile soap with 1 gallon of warm water. Add 2 tablespoons of raw 100% cold-pressed neem oil. Place the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray your lawn weekly until the grubs are gone, or the population is reduced to a normal level. Apply at dawn or dusk to keep from harming beneficial insects.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"bird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/d5635a6c-233a-43ad-9848-d4f3f21986db.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anmol Dash / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrubs are tasty little treats for birds like bluejays and robins. Put out birdhouses, birdbaths, and food for birds to attract them to your yard. They will eat your grub problem away while you sit back and watch.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re in an area where you experience droughts in the summer, take advantage of it. Dry out the soil even more by not watering your grass for three to four weeks. Since beetle eggs need moisture to live, drought will act as a natural pesticide and kill the eggs. The dry soil will decrease the subsequent year’s grub population.
\n\n\n\nSome grass types are more drought-tolerant than others, but most healthy lawns will green up when you start re-quenching the grass’s thirst.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nConventional grub control products, like other conventional lawn care agents such as herbicides and insecticides, come with risks to humans, pets, and the environment. Be sure to read product labels and follow the instructions, taking any necessary safety precautions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCuratives eliminate larvae before they become pupae. They do not kill beetles when they are in their pupae stage, which is after they are larvae but before they become adult beetles. Products that have the ingredients carbaryl or trichlorfon are effective curative products for grubs.
\n\n\n\nCarbaryl kills grubs in about 10 to 14 days. It is more effective at eliminating certain types of grubs, like European chafer grubs, than trichlorfon. Beneficial insects, including bees, are also harmed by carbaryl.
\n\n\n\nTrichlorfon starts to kill grubs in about one to five days.
\n\n\n\nMow the lawn immediately before applying these chemicals to protect bees. Carbaryl and trichlorfon are toxic to these crucial pollinators. They can be harmed if they visit flowering weeds after the lawn is sprayed. Mowing removes the flowers. After the application of curative products, water the lawn with at least 0.5 inches of water.
\n\n\n\nTreat the grass in the early spring or fall with curative killers since this is when grubs are most vulnerable to pesticides. Do not apply curative treatments after mid-May because grubs are no longer feeding. Using carbaryl or trichlorfon in September will kill 20 – 80% of grubs. They will kill 20 – 55% when used in late October.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you already have a grub problem, preventative pesticides will not work. Preventative products are for homeowners who have had past grub problems or who have noticed that their neighbor probably has grubs. These pesticides will decrease your chances of a grub infestation and stop white grubs from invading in the future.
\n\n\n\nChoose preventative pesticides with the chemicals halofenozide or imidacloprid. Imidacloprid and clothianidin are effective on young grubs like European chafers and will kill them as they hatch.
\n\n\n\nPreventative chemicals are more effective at decreasing the grub population than curative methods. Products with these active ingredients can be used in late summer, fall, and early spring. These chemicals kill 75 – 100% of grubs when applied in early summer, in June or July. Be sure to irrigate immediately after application with 0.5 inches of water to get the optimal killing potential.
\n\n\n\nJust as you would with curative agents, mow the lawn immediately preceding the application of preventative pesticides to protect beneficial insects and to ensure the product reaches the grubs in the soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: silver bullet66 / Pixabay / License
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn healthy will help prevent grubs from taking over and injuring your yard. Thriving turfgrass that is watered regularly (but not overwatered) can withstand five or more grubs per square foot without damage. You want to maintain your grass in a way that facilitates a deeper root system. These lawn care practices will establish the healthy lawn needed to prevent lawn grubs:
\n\n\n\nAre there insecticides that do not work on grubs?
\n\n\n\nYes. The chemicals listed below will not work on grubs unless they are combined with preventative chemicals that are effective for grub control. Do not use products that contain only these chemicals:
\n\n\n\n— Bifenthrin
— Gamma-cyhalothrin
— Lambda-cyhalothrin
— Deltamethrin
— Permethrin
— Cyfluthrin
When is it safe for children and pets to return to the grass after grub control treatment?
\n\n\n\nInsecticides and herbicides, in general, are harmful to humans, especially children, and pets. Wait until after you have watered the grass, and it has completely dried before allowing humans or pets into the affected area.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any active ingredients safe for bees?
\n\n\n\nThe chemical chlorantraniliprole is safe for bees. This active ingredient can be found in some preventive conventional grub control products.
\n\n\n\nUnlike other preventives, it can be used on the lawn any time in the spring after green-up. It is not as effective as other preventive agents, but it will decrease grubs by 65 – 80%. You can apply it between early April and mid-July, but applying it before June ensures maximum killing potential.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo grubs go away without treatment?
\n\n\n\nNo, they do not. They not only spread quickly, but they also cause both aesthetic damage and damage to grass root systems. Test for grubs or call a professional if you have signs, and start treatment immediately.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow do you apply conventional curative and preventive grub control products?
\n\n\n\nBoth of these types of products come as liquid and dry granules. Read labels and follow application directions. Liquid pesticides can be applied with a hose spray bottle or a hose sprayer. Granules can be applied with a fertilizer spreader. Some granules need to be mixed with water and sprayed. Some grub control products come in attach-to-hose bottles where the water is automatically mixed upon application.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou have several options to manage a lawn grub infestation. Fortunately, a few grubs do not indicate a problem. A healthy lawn may contain about five grubs per square foot and not have any damage. Always do a test before starting treatment. For the most accurate analysis, call a lawn pest control professional.
WikiLawn can connect you to qualified lawn care pros in your area for all your lawn care needs, including grub detection and treatment.
Main Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.492537313432836,"src":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1789c/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/107df/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/293e9/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/f2cbb/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1789c/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/c26c2/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1dd6e/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/67b76/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/8df11/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/98a65/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1dd6e/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/3cc96/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn about natural living organisms that kill grubs, DIY solutions, and conventional chemicals that get rid of grubs from your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"55544e92-5767-5ed0-9e58-cbdcd6d01e03","slug":"best-grass-types-central-virginia","path":"/lawn-care/central-virginia/best-grass-types-central-virginia/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Based in the south of France, Jeffery holds a master of science degree from the International University of Monaco. His hobbies include hiking, cycling, and traveling across Europe.","name":"Jeffery Keusseyan","id":"75c05140-c87e-540a-8d34-da174527f4cc","path":"/author/jeffery-keusseyan/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/12a7b239a959b7f6feee4e4b9495d63f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"25cd38af-fffb-5477-8494-0145c9f36f4f","name":"Central Virginia","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/central-virginia/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 30th, 2023","excerpt":"Home to the state capital, Central Virginia is a historic region with plenty to offer for its nature-loving residents. You can enjoy long, refreshing walks in Powhatan State Park and cherish everything that mother nature has to offer. But every once in a while, you just feel like sluggin’ it in your backyard. When you […]
\n","content":"\nHome to the state capital, Central Virginia is a historic region with plenty to offer for its nature-loving residents. You can enjoy long, refreshing walks in Powhatan State Park and cherish everything that mother nature has to offer. But every once in a while, you just feel like sluggin’ it in your backyard. When you choose the best grass types for Central Virginia, you can transform that grim-looking turf into a lush green lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive when temperatures range from 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They actively grow in late spring and summer, entering dormancy as temperatures drop in winter. These turfgrasses have low frost-tolerance, enjoy high temperatures, and require less water than cool-season grasses. They include bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, cool-season grasses thrive when temperatures range from 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They tolerate frost and lower temperatures, actively growing in spring and fall. Cool-season turfgrasses include tall fescue, creeping red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nCentral Virginia lies in USDA plant hardiness zone 7a, though some parts of Richmond and Chesterfield are in 7b. When it comes to choosing the right turfgrass, the state’s location in the transition zone is a far more decisive factor. The grasses mentioned below are suitable for Central Virginia, and should be able to thrive under the right conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a perennial, bunch-type grass that can adapt to a wide variety of soils. It withstands drought conditions and hot summers better than other cool-season turfgrasses. Tall fescue performs best in full sun, but is also known for its moderate shade-tolerance.
\n\n\n\nTo get the best out of this cool-season grass, overseeding is recommended to maintain a dense lawn and minimize weed competition. With its notable versatility, tall fescue is a great choice for Central Virginia homeowners.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is vital for cool-season grass seed mixes in transition zones, including Virginia. It grows well in early spring and fall, but becomes dormant during the summer. Perennial ryegrass is able to survive severe climates, though Virginia is not prone to such conditions. While it can tolerate lightly shaded lawns, it prefers full sun.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial turfgrass is used to overseed warm-season grasses to extend the lawn’s winter green color.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is another great choice for a Central Virginia lawn. It spreads by both rhizomes and tillers, forming a dense sod. New shoots are primarily produced in the spring and late summer. However, new shoots and leaves are produced year-round in the transition zone. This grass type has good drought tolerance, but little to no shade tolerance. For shady lawns, fine fescue might be a better choice.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass can tolerate heavy foot traffic, making it a great choice for families who enjoy playing Cornhole.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is a bunch-type grass with several species, including creeping red and chewings. Its needle-like leaves are quite unique and distinctive. It is a slow-growing grass that does not tolerate poorly-drained soils. Seed mixtures of fine fescue and Kentucky bluegrass are commonly found in garden centers across the state.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is the most shade-tolerant cool-season turfgrass, with all species able to thrive in our Central Virginia climate.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is one of the most cold-tolerant warm-season grasses. It produces a dense, cushiony turf when established. It can withstand wear and tear, and requires less water than most cool-season grasses. Its thick growth helps it control crabgrass and other summer weeds. Perennial ryegrass can be used to overseed zoysia for a green winter color.
\n\n\n\nDuring the hot summer months, zoysiagrass will boost your lawn’s visual appeal with an attractive green color. If you enjoy lawn games and outdoor activities, this warm-season turfgrass won’t let you down.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but recovers slowly from damage
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low nitrogen fertilization requirements, although, it’s prone to thatch build-up.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 1 and 2 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a warm-season grass that spreads by both stolons and rhizomes. It has excellent drought, wear, and salt tolerance. Bermudagrass enters dormancy in early winter, which is when the leaves turn straw-brown in color. Due to its rapid growth rate, this turfgrass may develop excessive thatch. Fortunately, it is capable of recovering from injury very quickly.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass will perform very poorly in lawns with constant shade. Despite that, it is well-adapted to most soils and can be used in athletic fields and golf courses.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; thrives in full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set the mowing height between 0.5 and 1.5 inches for hybrid Bermudagrass cultivars. Mow common Bermudagrass down to 1.5 to 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn regularly endures high traffic, a mixture of turf-type tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is an excellent choice. Kentucky bluegrass has a spreading root system that allows your turf to quickly recover from excessive traffic or drought damage. As mentioned previously, both grass types are suitable for Central Virginia’s climate.
Centipedegrass is a warm-season grass that can only be grown in the Tidewater area. Additionally, this turfgrass cannot withstand heavy foot traffic, so your lawn would be much better off with zoysia or Kentucky bluegrass.
Not only can cogongrass be found in Central Virginia, but throughout the entire state. It is an aggressive and invasive perennial grass that creates dense groundcovers, displacing native plants and some ground-nesting animals.
You can control this invasive species by mowing, grazing, or burning. Unfortunately, none of these methods are entirely effective. To completely remove this plant from your back or front yard, the rhizomes must be destroyed.
Another way to deal with this problem is herbicide control. Imazapyr and glyphosate are two active ingredients that have proven successful in dealing with this non-native plant.
The best grass types for Northern Virginia include:
● Tall fescue
● Kentucky bluegrass
● Perennial ryegrass
● Fine fescue
● Zoysiagrass
● Bermudagrass
With 6 grass types to choose from, the decision-making process might get slightly difficult. You should consider your lawn’s soil type, sun exposure levels, and activity level to help you choose the right grass for your turf. Add some more research to your thinking, and you’ll get to plant some native trees or wildflowers to help boost the local ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nBut why stop there when you can create the ultimate outdoor space? Consider low-maintenance landscaping ideas for your Virginia lawn, including mulching and hardscaping.
\n\n\n\nLooking for a Virginia lawn care pro near you? We have trusted lawn care pros in Powhatan, Mechanicsville, Glen Allen, and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Karen Blaha / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Central Virginia","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.444043321299639,"src":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1789c/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/107df/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/293e9/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/f2cbb/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1789c/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/c26c2/lawn-in-UVA-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1dd6e/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/67b76/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 320w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/8df11/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 500w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/98a65/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 800w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/1dd6e/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 960w,\n/static/069518ca1f7eb31e8a051cdc22a52915/3cc96/lawn-in-UVA-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Central Virginia | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Tired of looking at patchy spots on your lawn? Transform your grim-looking turf with the best grass types for Central Virginia."}}},{"node":{"id":"9fc458a7-dc2c-59cf-8a99-b4ed5505b920","slug":"best-grass-types-st-petersburg","path":"/lawn-care/fl/st-petersburg/best-grass-types-st-petersburg/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"734573d5-65ff-50b5-a3d5-4fe6344a5027","name":"St. Petersburg","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/st-petersburg/"}],"date":"April 17th, 2023","excerpt":"It would be tough to find a better climate than St. Petersburg’s, with its warm temps and abundant sunshine. This tropical weather makes it a great place to live and play, but it also gives you an opportunity to have a magnificent lawn year-round, provided you know what grasses thrive here. Let’s take a look […]
\n","content":"\nIt would be tough to find a better climate than St. Petersburg’s, with its warm temps and abundant sunshine. This tropical weather makes it a great place to live and play, but it also gives you an opportunity to have a magnificent lawn year-round, provided you know what grasses thrive here.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a look at the seven best grass types for St. Petersburg.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nAll grass types come under these two categories.
\n\n\n\nAs you might have guessed, warm-season grasses thrive best in St. Petersburg’s humid subtropical climate.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a quick-spreading and fast-growing turf that looks gorgeous. It requires high maintenance and grows best in full sun.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass tolerates drought but requires you to fertilize it five times a year and mow once per week. It tolerates high foot traffic too, and can quickly recover from damages. In fact, Bermudagrass is used on football fields and golf courses because of its durability.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/St.-Augustinegrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 US
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is among the most popular turfs in the Tampa Bay area. It grows best in full sun but can tolerate shade. St. Augustinegrass looks beautiful with its dense green to blue-green coarse grass blades.
\n\n\n\nIf you have kids and pets running around your yard, St. Augustinegrass isn’t a good option, as it can’t tolerate high foot traffic. It’s a high-maintenance grass that requires you to fertilize it four times a year and mow once a week. Avoid irrigating St. Augustinegrass with salt water as it can’t tolerate salt much.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a beautiful grass that’s light to medium green in color. It’s slow growing but requires little maintenance when established. Centipedegrass grows best in full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass takes about two years to form a dense turf. During this period, you should keep the weeds in control. Centipedegrass can resist most insects but can’t tolerate high foot traffic and salt.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss looks beautiful with its bluish-green, fine-textured grass. It’s soft on bare feet, but it can’t tolerate high foot traffic. Buffalograss grows well in clay soil and can thrive in soils with pH levels between 6.0 to 8.0.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss grows best in full sun and tolerates drought. Don’t overwater it, as the grass can attract weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nZoysia is a popular grass across Florida because it’s beautiful, durable, and can tolerate high foot traffic. It grows slowly and takes time to recover from damages. If your home is near St. Pete Beach, Zoysia can be a great option, as it can tolerate salt.
\n\n\n\nZoysia prefers full sun but can grow in partial shade too. It can resist diseases and insects, so you don’t have to worry about chinch bugs destroying your grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bahia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is distinctive with its light green appearance. It prefers full sun and can’t tolerate high foot traffic. Bahiagrass requires little maintenance and can tolerate drought. But when you don’t water the grass for an extended period, it can turn brown because of drought-induced dormancy.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass resists diseases and insects. If you have salt water in your irrigation system, stay away from this grass as it can’t tolerate salt much.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Seashore-Paspalum-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum can be a great option for homes near St. Pete Beach as it has incredible salt tolerance. It grows best in full sun and can tolerate high foot traffic. Seashore paspalum requires frequent mowing, but be careful when mowing this grass as it takes a long time to recover from damage.
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum can’t tolerate drought and is susceptible to diseases like large patches and dollar spots.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and buffalograss are hardy and do well in dry conditions.
If your lawn is shady, you can plant St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass, Zoysia, and bahiagrass.
Buffalograss, Zoysia, and bahiagrass are the best options for low-maintenance lawns.
If you want to enjoy a lush green lawn year-round, it’s possible with these warm-season grasses. Choose a grass type that best suits your requirements and your lawn’s condition.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass and Zoysia are the most popular grass types among St. Petersburg homeowners. They both look beautiful and can tolerate high foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nPlanting the right grass can increase the appearance of your lawn. But if you want your yard to look complete, you should select the right plants and maintain your yard correctly.
Keep your lawn in good shape with Wikilawn St. Petersburg lawn care experts.
Main Image Credit: John O’Neill / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"7 Best Grass Types for St. Petersburg, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5873015873015872,"src":"/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/1789c/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/107df/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/293e9/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/f2cbb/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/1789c/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/c26c2/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/1dd6e/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/67b76/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp 320w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/8df11/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp 500w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/98a65/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp 800w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/1dd6e/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp 960w,\n/static/f3322f7450c3506d550786323da7bcdb/3cc96/lawn-in-st-petersburg-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"7 Best Grass Types for St. Petersburg, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"St. Petersburg has a tropical climate, but not all grasses thrive here. Here is a look at the grass types that look great and will thrive in this heat and humidity"}}},{"node":{"id":"37684193-2009-5ceb-a525-e1b1f4e1559e","slug":"best-grass-west-texas","path":"/lawn-care/tx/best-grass-west-texas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Stuart Kushner is a writer and aspiring product designer based in New York City. When he isn’t doing either, Stuart enjoys heavy metal music, exercise, and trying new food and drinks.","name":"Stuart Kushner","id":"82e51515-0cd6-5b19-a026-570eb408a24e","path":"/author/stuart-kushner/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/159400686ba92aeb1f5d3503e0246fc1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"May 4th, 2023","excerpt":"West Texas is a desert – dry as a bone, hot as a stovetop, and with rainfall as scarce as hen’s teeth. In short, maintaining a lush lawn here can be difficult. So establishing a great yard begins with selecting grass that’s best for West Texas lawns. In this article: Bermudagrass Photo Credit: Bidgee / […]
\n","content":"\nWest Texas is a desert – dry as a bone, hot as a stovetop, and with rainfall as scarce as hen’s teeth. In short, maintaining a lush lawn here can be difficult. So establishing a great yard begins with selecting grass that’s best for West Texas lawns.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is one of the most popular grasses grown in West Texas. It is highly drought-resistant (perfect for Texas) and handles foot traffic nicely, recovering quickly after your kids and pets play in the yard.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass comes in many varieties, many of which are used in lawns, golf courses, and athletic fields. But if you want low-maintenance grass, this isn’t it. It requires frequent mowing, regular fertilization, and constant dethatching.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Both stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWest Texas’ arid climate is no problem for Zoysiagrass. Even in such high temperatures, Zoysiagrass retains its green color, only losing it during extreme drought. It can handle shade but does best in sunlight.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass needs more fertilization than usual during the growing season to maintain its green color. It also requires dethatching, so you need to keep after it to reap the benefits.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow about once a week
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nIf you want a low-maintenance lawn, buffalograss is worth looking into. It’s highly drought-tolerant and prefers the heavy clay soils in West Texas. Planting it in areas with high rainfall risks inviting invasive weeds and Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nAvoid planting buffalograss if your lawn is shady or if you plan on having many legs running around the yard.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizome
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum thrives in the southern third of Texas becauses it doesn’t like prolonged low temperatures. It best suits golf course fairways, sports turf, and high-maintenance lawns.
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum is highly tolerant of saline soils, so if you live in an area with high salinity, consider planting this grass. The catch? It’s also highly prone to diseases like large patch and dollar spot.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate fertilizer and frequent mowing.
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nWith so many grass types at your fingertips, picking the right one can take time and effort. The key is to narrow down your options based on your yard and how much work you plan to do:
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is your best choice if you want grass that can tolerate shade. Avoid Bermudagrass and buffalograss, as they don’t like the shade.
All grasses can handle the hot sun, but Bermudagrass and buffalograss are the best at doing so.
Do you plan on having kids and pets run around the yard often? Do you plan on throwing parties or barbecues? Though each grass can handle foot traffic well, Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass handle feet the best.
There’s no such thing as a no-maintenance lawn, but the closest you’ll get to one is buffalograss, as it doesn’t require as much mowing, fertilizing, or dethatching as the others do.
Growing a lush, green lawn in the desert can be challenging but doable. If you need help, contact Wikilawn’s lawn care professionals, and we’ll help you with whatever problems you have.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Robert Gray / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"The Best Grasses for West Texas Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/1789c/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/107df/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg 320w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/293e9/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg 500w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/f2cbb/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg 800w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/1789c/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg 960w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/c26c2/Lawn-in-West-Texas.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/1dd6e/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/67b76/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp 320w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/8df11/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp 500w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/98a65/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp 800w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/1dd6e/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp 960w,\n/static/a3525567a2ecb2c4118ac7b22a9e6656/3cc96/Lawn-in-West-Texas.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Best Grasses for West Texas Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a lush, green lawn for your West Texas home? These are the very best grasses for West Texas lawns."}}},{"node":{"id":"6ba29152-fc73-502b-8a6c-d72e769a7d6d","slug":"a-guide-to-summer-lawn-care-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/a-guide-to-summer-lawn-care-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"A great looking Virginia lawn doesn’t happen overnight. It takes work and adjustments, discovering just the right thing needed for thick, green grass.
\n","content":"\nA great looking Virginia lawn doesn’t happen overnight. It takes work and adjustments, discovering just the right thing needed for thick, green grass. Each season has its own requirements to keep your yard in tip-top shape and summer’s no different. With a few simple steps and this guide to summer lawn care in Virginia Beach, your lawn will hold up through the heat and humidity.
\n\n\n\nA Virginia Beach lawn is hard to maintain if you don’t start with the right type of grass.
\n\n\n\nGrass has two major types — cool-season grasses, suited to Northern climates, and warm-season grasses, bred to thrive in the Southern heat. The state of Virginia is in the “transition zone” where both can be grown, but each will have challenges. Warm-season grasses will struggle in the winter, while cool-season grasses will wilt in the summer.
\n\n\n\nHowever, Virginia Beach’s climate is moderated by the ocean, so it rarely gets bitterly cold. In addition, it has sandy soils. Both those conditions mean warm-season grasses are the better choice, according to the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service.
\n\n\n\nSo, the experts recommend a warm-season grass like Bermuda, Bahia, or Zoysia have strong roots and the ability to tolerate drought. However, the cool-season fescue remains the most-dominant grass type.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Kt4OrHtGmwhVVVi0vJhB6QUlx_Q22P9zDVbDpVF69Zl7eXzD50J7Tbv_ABitXg2gn5PkN3P6WOHkgJvxIXP2FQhcOrpIyizcEaUs206KR05iONT3c9Rr-9VvEGwMU5mN_IqLNuH\")
Regular mowing is one of the most important things you can do for a healthy lawn. Doing it right creates a low-maintenance yard that also resists drought. The correct mowing height depends on the type of grass you plant. Mowing to the proper height makes the turfgrass thicker and promotes deep root growth. It also helps the grass stand up better against weeds and environmental stresses. Also, never cut more than one-third of the top at one time.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass: 1 to 1 1/2 inches
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass: 2 to 4 inches
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass: 1 1/2 to 3 inches.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is dry, water it or wait for rain before cutting. Mowing parched grass stresses the turf by exposing it to the wind and sun.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zx62tJ30i-O-bkkh_NrPb4LgtdpUzxpwXaap5rC1ebC1TJP74vcl-vur8cX_Qp36i03HEMnSyPOqLJU2nFwaGtcJ1bxkhWR9rsrjjaY2TfHDYpsNb3JmV9mK9bUEZL9jLEov5DFc\")
When you mow regularly, and the grass isn’t too tall, the volume of clippings left behind aren’t enough to warrant raking. Nor should you. Clippings left after mowing act as a fertilizer. They decompose, leaving water and nutrients behind in your yard. Clippings are rich in nitrogen and can reduce both the need for chemical fertilizer and the risk of the chemicals burning the lawn. It’s also better for the environment. There are, however, a few instances where it’s better to bag the clippings. Rake when the grass is wet, or you waited too long between mowings. Pick the clippings up if you need them for your compost pile. And definitely, don’t leave the clippings behind if you have spots of disease in the lawn. Bag them up and throw them away to prevent spreading the disease to other areas of your yard.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will survive a Virginia Beach summer without a lot of watering, except during severe drought conditions. But this guide to summer lawn care in Virginia Beach recommends watering about an inch per week in dry weather. The best time is early morning. Watering during the heat of the day will put stress on the lawn, and much of the water will evaporate. When water is needed, water deeply to encourage deep grass roots.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d like more information about lawn care and landscaping, visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Tennessee is home to unconquered natural beauty, from the Great Smoky Mountains to the Mississippi River. Against this stunning backdrop, it would be a shame to have a bare, dull yard when you could incorporate some of that natural beauty into your own outdoor space with these 11 great native plants of Tennessee. In this […]
\n","content":"\nTennessee is home to unconquered natural beauty, from the Great Smoky Mountains to the Mississippi River. Against this stunning backdrop, it would be a shame to have a bare, dull yard when you could incorporate some of that natural beauty into your own outdoor space with these 11 great native plants of Tennessee.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nNative plants grow naturally in Tennessee, so they have a number of advantages over non-natives, such as:
\n\n\n\nTennessee is a diverse state consisting of different regions that vary in climate, hardiness zone, and elevation. Your area may impact your choice of plants. The different regions include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Spicebush-Lindera-benzoin-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fritzflohrreynolds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nSpicebush peaks in the fall when it produces yellow leaves and bright red berries that attract a variety of birds. If you find yourself missing flowers late in the year, don’t worry. In late winter, spicebush flowers with small yellow blooms.
\n\n\n\nAlthough spicebush naturally lives in wet and shady areas, it’s often planted in full sun, where it grows denser. If you’re getting multiple spicebush plants, you’ll need both male and female plants to produce berries.
\n\n\n\nThere aren’t any known toxic effects of the spicebush, but it’s always better to practice caution anyway.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Moderately moist
Soil: Prefers fertile, loamy soil but tolerates sandy loam as well
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 6 to 12 feet
Potential hazards: None known, but practice caution in any case
![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Wild-Azalea-Rhodefondron-Canescens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nWild azalea grows visually appealing white and pink flowers that bloom from March to April and complement a variety of landscapes. If you decide to plant it, don’t fertilize it and don’t let its leaves get wet. Provide it with well-drained soil to avoid potential problems, and be sure to lay mulch to maintain the plant’s moisture.
\n\n\n\nNote that the wild azalea may scorch in full sun and that it’s susceptible to diseases and insect pests, so be sure to take care of it if you want to keep it looking pretty. However, the plant doesn’t only look great; it also benefits local ecosystems by serving as food for pollinators like bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nYet, take note: the plant is severely toxic, and its ingestion can be fatal. You should never eat it or feed it to animals.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Moderate moisture
Soil: Prefers soil with a high organic matter content but tolerates sandy and loam soils; the soil must be acidic
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 6 to 8 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Large-Tickseed-Coreopsis-Major.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nLarge tickseed has bright yellow, showy flowers that will bring vibrancy to your yard year after year. The plant is native to Middle and East Tennessee, so if you’re from either of these regions, it may be a great addition to your garden.
\n\n\n\nLarge tickseed spreads easily, isn’t invasive, and attracts pollinators. It also feeds birds, who like to snack on its seeds, which look like ticks (hence the plant’s name).
\n\n\n\nThe Coreopsis species are listed as non-toxic on the ASPCA website, but there are some reports of toxicity in some Coreopsis varieties. Also note that the plant is susceptible to diseases to some extent.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Dry or moderately dry
Soil: Will tolerate most soils, but sandy or rocky preferred
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 3 feet
Potential hazards: No data reporting toxicity for this variety, but practice caution in any case
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cardinal-Flower-Lobelia-cardinalis-1.jpeg\")
Photo by: ALAN SCHMIERER / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nCardinal flower’s vibrant, red flowers will make your garden a real showstopper when they bloom in the summer. Because the plant thrives in wet conditions, you’ll want to mulch to retain moisture in the soil. It’s an ideal plant for rain gardens, too. The cardinal flower also provides food for pollinators like butterflies.
\n\n\n\nHowever, take note: this plant is severely toxic, and ingesting it can be fatal. You should never ingest it or feed it to animals.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Wildflower
Sun: Partial shade
Water needs: Needs to stay moist at all times
Soil: Prefers moderately wet to wet soil that is rich and mildly acidic; likes to live next to streams or in moist meadows or woodland habitats
Duration: Perennial; divide every three years to perpetuate this flower
Mature height: 2 to 4 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Blue](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Wild-Blue-Phlox-Phlox-Divarcicata.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWild blue phlox, also known as woodland phlox and wild sweet William, produces delicate flowers that range between white, pink, and blue in color. It forms strong colonies over time that are sure to complement any Tennessee yard.
\n\n\n\nFurthermore, wild blue phlox provides a natural habitat for various species and enhances local biodiversity. You may need to protect your phlox plants from rabbits by elevating them or installing a net.
\n\n\n\nPhlox plants usually aren’t toxic, but it’s best to always practice caution anyway. Also, don’t confuse the wild sweet William with sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) or another toxic species that may look similar or have a similar name.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
Sun: Partial shade, full shade
Water needs: Tolerates medium-dry to medium-wet soils
Soil: Widely adapted, but prefers soil with lots of organic matter
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: Up to 1.5 feet
Potential hazards: None known, but practice caution in any case
![\"American](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/American-Beautyberry-Callicarpa-Americana-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eric Hunt / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAmerican beautyberry is a shrub mainly found in Eastern Tennessee, although it sometimes appears in Western Tennessee, too. It especially lives up to its name in the fall, when it produces clusters of bright, purple berries. It doesn’t typically have any major pest problems, and it tolerates drought to some extent, too. To control your American beautyberry’s size and keep it looking beautiful, you can prune it in the spring before new flowers begin to grow.
\n\n\n\nBeautyberries serve as a great source of food for various wildlife. Some sources report it as non-poisonous to humans as well. Others, however, claim that it may have mild toxic effects. You can speak to a professional about any dietary changes. There’s a lack of data regarding the plant’s toxicity to domestic animals, so avoid letting them eat it.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Low
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, moist, well-draining, rich in organic matter; tolerant of various soil types as long as it gets good drainage
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 3 to 8 feet
Potential hazards: Mild toxic effects reported; a lack of data regarding toxicity to pets
![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Flowering-Dogwood-Cornus-florida-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Hippopx
\n\n\n\nFlowering dogwood is a small tree that produces delicate flowers in the spring and red berries in the fall. If you want to provide food or habitat for local animals, this plant is a great choice. The tree is enjoyed by various wildlife, like pollinators and birds, and bees and butterflies even use the flowering dogwood to lay eggs.
Despite the appearance and name of the flowering dogwood berries, be warned: they’re very poisonous, so neither humans nor pets should ever eat them, or any part of the tree. Instead, allow wildlife that won’t harm itself to snack on it.
Plant type: Small tree
Sun: Full sun, partial shade; prefers partial shade
Water needs: Can handle occasional dryness; prefers moist, acidic, well-drained soil
Soil: Prefers high organic matter content; will tolerate sand, loam, and clay mixes
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 12 to 30 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tulip-Poplar-Liriodendron-Tulipifera.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dcrjsr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe tulip poplar is the state tree of Tennessee. It adds beauty to any landscape with its tulip-shaped flowers. If you like a little color variety in your yard, you’ll appreciate that these unique blossoms are green and orange in the summer and turn bright yellow in the fall. Birds and pollinators like to snack on the tulip poplar, too.
Don’t let the tulip poplar’s size intimidate you; although it can reach a height of 120 feet, there are smaller cultivars, like Little Volunteer, that are easier to maintain in backyards.
\n\n\n\nWhile ASPCA lists this tree as non-toxic to some domestic animals, take note that some sources report that this tree is toxic to both people and pets. It’s always better to be cautious.
Plant type: Large tree
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Moist or occasionally dry in well-drained soil
Soil: Slightly acidic loam
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 70 to 120-plus feet
Potential hazards: Some reports of toxicity
![\"Bunch](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Black-eyed-Susan-Rudbeckia-hirta-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan adds a yellow pop of color that is not only attractive to humans but also to pollinators such as butterflies. Although it takes around a year to see the first blossoms, once they appear, they’ll accompany your yard for months.
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan is mainly present in Middle and Eastern Tennessee but can also be found in Western Tennessee. It’s easy to care for and tolerates various conditions, including heat, drought, and cold.
\n\n\n\nHowever, black-eyed Susan is also toxic to animals, so be sure to keep them away. Although the data regarding its toxicity is limited, we know it can also cause allergic reactions and asthma in humans. Don’t consume or touch it, and use protective gloves while handling it.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Wildflower
Sun: Full sun to partial shade
Water needs: Moderate
Soil: Average, well-draining, acidic
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 3 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Little-Bluestem-Schizachyrium-Scoparium.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you want your yard to pop even more, you might want to add some ornamental grass, like little bluestem. This grass is bluish in the summer and orange-red in the fall, adding the extra touch of vibrancy you may be looking for.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, little bluestem is a great food source for birds and is also beneficial to butterflies that lay eggs in it. The grass thrives in hot, humid conditions and grows well on hillsides. Once established, it tolerates drought and needs little maintenance. To keep it looking beautiful, cut it back in late winter or early spring.
\n\n\n\nLittle bluestem doesn’t have known toxic effects, but it’s always better to err on the side of caution anyway.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Ornamental grass
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Occasionally; dry to moist
Soil: Any type (clay, loam, sand, rocky) but must be well-drained
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 4 feet
Potential hazards: None known, but practice caution in any case
![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yarrow-Achillea-Millefolium.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jitaeri / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nYou’ve probably seen the fragrant common yarrow during a stroll in the park, but why not make this easy-care plant a part of your yard? You can get a pink, white, or yellow variant, depending on which one’s the best fit for your outdoor space. No matter which color variant you pick, your common yarrow will attract pollinators and birds, providing them with nectar and seeds to snack on. Starlings even like to use common yarrow to build their nests.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to encourage more blooms on your common yarrow, be sure to cut off its dead flowers. Even though the plant is tolerant of various conditions, you may need to treat its common problems, such as mildew and root rot. It can also become weedy in poorly managed areas.
\n\n\n\nTake note, that common yarrow is toxic and should never be ingested by you or your pets. Touching the plant may cause irritation.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
Sun: Full sun, partial shade, full shade
Water needs: Once established, usually survives on natural rainfall; water no more than once a month in summer
Soil: Tolerates most soil types
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 1 to 3 feet tall
Potential hazards: Toxic
As you can see, there’s a broad selection of native plants that can thrive in your Tennessee landscape. When- picking the ones that are right for your yard, consider factors such as:
\n\n\n\nOf course, if you want a beautiful yard, there’s more to it than planting flowers, shrubs, or trees. You also need to maintain your yard regularly by mowing the lawn, trimming the hedges, removing weeds, and watering.
\n\n\n\nNeed a hand? Don’t hesitate to contact one of WikiLawn’s lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"11 Best Native Plants for Your Tennessee Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/1789c/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg","srcSet":"/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/107df/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg 320w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/293e9/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg 500w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/f2cbb/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg 800w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/1789c/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg 960w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/c26c2/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/1dd6e/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/67b76/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp 320w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/8df11/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp 500w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/98a65/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp 800w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/1dd6e/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp 960w,\n/static/583329a1dc15f1dc90da0a75ac9a9db7/3cc96/Best-Native-Plants-for-Your-Tennessee-Yard.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Best Native Plants for Your Tennessee Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"It would be a shame to have a bare yard in the midst of the natural wonders of Tennessee, so here’s a guide to11 popular native plants of the region."}}},{"node":{"id":"6eb8b89d-24d7-5d63-aeac-870487ac9062","slug":"best-native-plants-nashville","path":"/lawn-care/tn/nashville/best-native-plants-nashville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Beck Carter","id":"3b38b422-934a-5aae-81e6-7a8844634ab1","path":"/author/beck-carter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/faa5e8711d89766a0fe69560b04f52b1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"6022ebc8-f59a-5092-819f-17d84814cacf","name":"Nashville","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/nashville/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"April 4th, 2023","excerpt":"In Music City, homeowners need a lawn that both stands out and blends with the local ecosystem. Native plants can be perfect for giving lawns a meadow-like appearance and attracting beautiful butterflies. Below, we break down the Nashville native plants that will make you the talk of the town. In this article: Why Go Native? […]
\n","content":"\nIn Music City, homeowners need a lawn that both stands out and blends with the local ecosystem. Native plants can be perfect for giving lawns a meadow-like appearance and attracting beautiful butterflies. Below, we break down the Nashville native plants that will make you the talk of the town.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nOne of the ways gardeners ensure that plants work well for their region is by referencing the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. This is especially important when selecting non-native plants for your yard. However, by selecting native plants, homeowners can ensure that their lawns will thrive.
\n\n\n\nAnother good resource for those looking to learn more about native plants is the Tennessee Native Plant Society. They advise homeowners who want native plants to familiarize themselves with their HOA or city ordinances that may classify some native plants as weeds. To avoid this, you can also place a sign on your lawn indicating that your plants are native and helping local pollinators.
\n\n\n\n![\"Northern](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Northern-Maidenhair-Fern.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Schnobby / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nNorthern maidenhair ferns are perfect for gardens with shade. This slow-growing native plant is typically considered low maintenance. Northern maidenhair is a dainty plant that grows naturally in wooded areas around Tennessee. Typically, this fern sprouts fiddleheads that are reddish purple or pink.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Fern
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moist soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers humus-rich well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 2 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Butterfly-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nButterfly weed is part of the milkweed family. This colorful long-lasting wildflower attracts butterflies and bees due to its abundant nectar. A large taproot allows this plant to survive harsh, dry conditions. But be careful. Butterfly weed tolerates drought but can struggle is overwatered.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium to dry
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers sandy loam
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Blue](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Blue-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sten Porse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBlue star is a feathery plant that features blue, star-shaped flowers and turns a lovely golden color in the fall. A low-maintenance plant, it attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Blue stars can survive in a variety of soil types including clay and sand. It is a long-lasting plant that resists pests such as deer and rabbits.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers humus-rich soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 3 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Dogwood](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dogwood.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA small low-maintenance tree, the dogwood works well as a screen or border accent. Dogwoods bloom white flowers in early spring and produce blue or red fruit in the fall. This native tree grows well in swampy or wetland areas. The dogwood attracts wildlife such as birds, butterflies, and bees.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to medium moisture
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers loam, tolerates sandy soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 8 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Maximillian](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Maximillian-Sunflowers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn addition to Maximilian’s sunflower, several other varieties of sunflowers are native to middle Tennessee. Sunflowers are best suited for gardens with plenty of space because they can grow up to 7 feet tall. These bright, showy yellow flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds. Maximilian’s sunflower spreads aggressively and is easy to grow.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderately wet to moderately dry
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 7 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Baptisia](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Baptisia-australis-Blue-False-Indigo.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fritzflohrreynolds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWild blue indigo sprouts blue flowers and becomes a robust bush-like plant when fully grown. This plant turns a silvery-gray color during the fall. Wild blue indigo can be difficult to transplant due to its extensive root system. Butterflies and bees enjoy the flowers.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun, tolerates some shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/American-Wisteria.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Photo by David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAmerican wisteria is a climbing vine with shiny dark green leaves. Its fragrant bluish-purple flowers are large and form in drooping clusters. American wisteria is frequently used as an ornamental plant. Additionally, this plant is important for butterfly larvae who use it as a food source. American wisteria can be susceptible to fungal diseases and chewing insects.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Vine
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moderately fertile loam
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 15 to 30 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Buttonbush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: The Cosmonaut / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe buttonbush is a shrub that has distinctive white flowers that grow in spherical clusters. These clusters of flowers resemble pincushions and give the plant a somewhat tropical appearance. The buttonbush grows brown ornamental fruit.
\n\n\n\nBecause buttonbush naturally grows around ponds and in swamps, it requires a particularly moist environment when grown in a garden. A honey plant, the buttonbush attracts bees, butterflies, and water birds such as ducks.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 5 to 12 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Scarlet-Bee-Balm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: H. Zell / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nScarlet bee balm has beautiful red flowers in mid to late summer. Because this herbaceous perennial is in the mint family, it will give off a minty scent when its leaves are crushed. Scarlet bee balm attracts wildlife such as bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Its flowers are also edible.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers rich humus soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Woodland](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Woodland-Phlox.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWoodland phlox is a herbaceous perennial often used as an ornamental plant due to its lovely blue flowers. While it has attractive fragrant flowers, it is a fairly nondescript plant when not in bloom. Woodland phlox attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Unfortunately, it also draws deer and rabbits so it may need additional care and protection.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Part to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers rocky or sandy soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nPlants native to your area are more likely to establish quickly and thrive. These native plants create a natural habitat for local wildlife such as butterflies and birds in your backyard. Together, this means that native plants are usually lower maintenance and better for the environment.
It is typically best to plant your garden a few weeks before the last frost date, which, in Nashville, is April 15.
Blue star, wild blue indigo, American wisteria, and buttonbush can be toxic if ingested.
Alternatively, Maximilian’s sunflower and scarlet bee balm are edible plants.
These common Tennessee native plants each have features that make them perfect for your Nashville lawn. Homeowners in Nashville should choose the native plants that fit their preferred maintenance level and aesthetic needs. Ensure that you select native plants that bring desirable wildlife to your home and confirm the toxicity level of your plants if you have children or pets.
\n\n\n\nStill, looking for ways to enhance your Music City lawn? Check out our list of the best grasses for Nashville lawns to find a variety of options that are ideal for Tennessee’s transitional climate. For help with lawn maintenance in Nashville, contact your local professional.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Oak Hill Garden Club in Nashville / Carol Norquist, NGC Chairman / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"10 Best Native Plants for Nashville, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1789c/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg","srcSet":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/107df/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 320w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/293e9/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 500w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/f2cbb/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 800w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1789c/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 960w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/c26c2/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1dd6e/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/67b76/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 320w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/8df11/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 500w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/98a65/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 800w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1dd6e/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 960w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/3cc96/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Native Plants for Nashville, TN","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"These 10 native plants will thrive in Nashville’s transitional climate and attract beneficial wildlife to your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"1a0c0738-28df-59e5-8559-5d5e7a104891","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors.
\n","content":"\nVirginia Beach is one of the lucky metropolitan areas when it comes to lawn watering. Watering restrictions in Virginia Beach are pretty much nonexistent. A representative of the public utility says Virginia Beach has plenty of water. But the truth isn’t quite as simple as that, and the city asks people to follow a list of water conservation recommendations. Here’s a little bit of the history behind this, along with the city’s conservation recommendations.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest drought of the last century took place in 1930. The United States Geological Survey says that was one of the most severe droughts recorded in the state. Things dried up again in 1938-1942, and 1962-1971 and other years, like in the 1980s More recently, a milder drought hit Virginia in 2002.
\n\n\n\nToday, Virginia Beach pumps in millions of gallons a day from Lake Gaston. That abundant water supply allows the city to skirt water restrictions. But this didn’t come without a court challenge from the state of North Carolina, where part of the lake is located. Virginia Beach prevailed, but the water supply is a hard-fought resource, and the city promotes conservation.
\n\n\n\nThe city of Virginia Beach has a list of recommendations for outdoor and indoor water use on its website. Those recommendations include watering your lawn in the early morning. Morning watering is also best for the grass since it allows the roots time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. Watering during the day wastes water and watering at night leaves the lawn vulnerable to disease and fungus. The city also recommends replacing some of your grass with mulched garden beds and choosing native plants, which are adapted to the climate of Virginia Beach. Other common-sense tips include aiming your sprinklers away from driveways and streets and towards your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line is that you can water as much as you want and when you want, and the city of Virginia Beach is not going to come after you. Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors. Save the water for a rainy day … or rather several dry days when we really need it!
\n\n\n\nWant more information about lawn care and landscaping in Virginia Beach? Visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
![\"lawn](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ZaJpJzTvLJW2CAMfO0RcAuW4An7qGVU_lYKSXuCzftZxVpbbKUrujSk1q7qBJ1osnMYrsKCORAT-UU256N4Wzk-uHsDO6lKUQ5J202PgdmS2ytmo1JYRD2mJB50c0bXhnYQ-Ng8U\")