![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Want a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston: Bermudagrass Seashore Paspalum St. Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass 1. Bermudagrass Popular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has […]
\n","content":"\nWant a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston:
\n\n\n\nPopular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has a coarse to a medium-fine texture. Its wide leaf ranges in color from light green to dark green, depending on the cultivar (or type).
\n\n\n\nClassification: Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems).
Shade tolerance: Bermudagrass prefers full sun at all times.
Drought tolerance: High. Regular rainfall should be enough to water it. This type will go dormant during extended dry periods.
Foot traffic tolerance: Its sturdiness withstands high levels of foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: High. Bermudagrass requires monthly fertilization during the summer. Water as needed to the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Thatch buildup is a threat.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 1 to 2 inches once or twice a week to keep up with its incessant growth rate.
Also resilient in saltwater environments is seashore paspalum. Great for waterfront properties, this type is low-growing and has pointy, medium-coarse blades and a blue-green hue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Prefers full sun, but can withstand shade better than Bermudagrass.
Drought tolerance: Low. Seashore paspalum prefers very moist growing environments. Due to its high saline tolerance, you can use saltwater in irrigation.
Foot traffic tolerance: High. Seashore paspalum’s dense turf stands up well to heavy foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: Requires little fertilization throughout the growing season. Over-fertilizing can lead to scalping, which exposes the grass’s roots, opening it up to disease, stress, and stunted growth.
Recommended mowing height: For a well-manicured, dense lawn, mow to a height of 1 inch.
With its dark green color and curved, wide leaf, St. Augustinegrass is another favorite among Houstonians. This salt-resistant grass is one of the most selected options for lawns in the Houston area.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons.
Shade tolerance: Unlike most other warm-season types, St. Augustinegrass is able to thrive in shade.
Drought tolerance: Some degree of drought tolerance, but will begin to show stress during long periods of dryness.
Foot traffic tolerance: Light. Regular lawn foot traffic is no problem.
Maintenance needs: Fertilize every eight to 10 weeks and recycle grass clippings to help provide nutrients to this type of lawn. If rainfall isn’t enough, water to a soil depth of 6 inches when the grass is showing signs of dullness and stress. Over-watering and over-fertilizing can lead to thatch problems.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 2.5 inches.
Zoysiagrass is a popular choice because of its low-maintenance nature. There are many varieties, but Zoysia japonica is one of the best grass types for Houston Lawns. It has a high salt tolerance, pointy leaf blades, and a light- to medium-green color. It turns brown in early winter, going dormant soon after the first frost in November.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Moderate shade won’t bother this turf, but it does grow best in full sun and temperatures of 80 degrees or hotter.
Drought tolerance: Zoysia can withstand periods of drought, but as a dry period lingers, it will go dormant and turn brown. Once watered, it will revert to its green color once again.
Foot traffic tolerance: Zoysiagrass grows well in high-traffic areas.
Maintenance needs: Low. Fertilize with about two pounds of nitrogen a year, and water about 1 inch a week during the growing season.
Recommended mowing height: Keep mower blades sharpened to tackle these stiff leaves, and cut to a height of 1 to 2 inches weekly.
1. When is the best time to plant grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nEarly March to late May, when the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees. This is the best time for warm-season grasses to germinate and become established in time for the first frost.
\n\n\n\n2. Can I plant a cool-season grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should wait until September when the ground is a bit cooler (about 50 degrees.) Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue will give you a greener lawn in the winter, but will not do well in the heat and humidity of the summer.
\n\n\n\n3. Is there such a thing as a no mow grass for Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, buffalograss is one of the easiest grasses to care for. It’s one of the best grass types for Houston since It only needs occasional mowing and is extremely drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have the time or energy to replant or reseed your lawn, we’ll find a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg","srcSet":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/107df/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/293e9/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/f2cbb/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1ff5b/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 1290w","srcWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/67b76/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/8df11/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/98a65/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/bdec4/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 1290w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a gorgeous lawn that will stay lush and green most of the year. We list the four best grass types for your Houston lawn."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"dc9d69b9-4c83-5b51-a60d-e92c73f52fc7","slug":"when-to-overseed-a-lawn","path":"/blog/when-to-overseed-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Overseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type. Experts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to […]
\n","content":"\nOverseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to overseed a lawn in southern areas where grass grows more actively in the spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPopular in the northern states, cool-season grasses grow most actively in spring and fall. These grasses should be overseeded in late summer or early fall. This way the seeds will have time to germinate before your lawn comes out of dormancy in the spring. Most weeds have stopped growing by fall, so your new grass seed will have less competition.
\n\n\n\nIdeal conditions for growing cool-season grasses are when the soil is between 50 and 65 degrees. You can use a soil thermometer to check this out.
\n\n\n\nThere are many varieties of cool-season grasses, but the most common ones include:
\n\n\n\nAnother thing to consider when overseeding is when you expect the first frost. It’s important to overseed at least 45 days before the ground freezes so the new seeds have time to take root. Any closer to the first frost than that, and the grass seeds may die.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are most active in late spring and early summer and best for lawns in the southern United States. It’s best to overseed with warm-season grass seeds in the late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees. These types of grasses prefer prolonged temperatures around 75 degrees and lie dormant during winter.
\n\n\n\nThe most popular kinds of warm-season grasses are drought-tolerant. They include:
\n\n\n\nYou may want to overseed your warm-season grass with a cool-season variety such as ryegrass. This will help your lawn stay green longer into the winter season. If this is your goal, you need to overseed in the fall, ideally when the soil temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees.
\n\n\n\nAnnual ryegrass will provide winter color in the far South, while perennial ryegrass is better suited to lawns in the middle of the country. Perennial varieties will lie dormant through the summer and return next fall. The extreme temperatures in the South are not hospitable to perennial ryegrass, so you’ll want to overseed with annual ryegrass each autumn.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll want to consider blending grass types in states near the Mason-Dixon line. Summers tend to be too warm for cool-season grasses, but winters are too cold for warm ones.
\n\n\n\nHome supply stores typically sell grass seed mixes, especially for the transition zone. You’ll find overseeding with this mixture is a great way to keep your lawn green and healthy year-round.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses should be overseeded in the first few weeks of spring when the existing lawn first turns green.You want to overseed when your lawn is at its most active, but you also want to be sure you have enough time to complete the process.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns will require overseeding every couple of years, but you may want to make it an annual chore if your lawn suffers from:
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find valuable information on the seed packaging specific to each type of grass. The labels will indicate how much seed to apply per square foot, as well as other tips for attaining a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\n1. How much grass seed should I use when overseeding?
\n\n\n\nApply 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet on bare soil. Using too little will leave bare spots and patches. Too much seed will force the grass to compete for water, light, and other nutrients. Read the directions on the seed package.
\n\n\n\n2. Should I mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nYes. Before overseeding, cut your grass shorter than usual and bag the clippings. It’s important to loosen the top layer of solid and remove any dead grass or thatch so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n3. Should I use a weed treatment while overseeding?
\n\n\n\nThis is a big no-no. Pre-emergents herbicides work by preventing germinating seeds from establishing roots. These products don’t know the difference between weed seeds and grass seeds. You also want to hold off on post-emergent weed treatments since they can kill young grass seed.
\n\n\n\n4. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should see the grass sprout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n5. How soon and how often should I water the lawn after overseeding?
\n\n\n\nWater the overseeded area lightly right away, for about half an hour, to force the seed into the soil. A light spray is best so as not to wash away the grass seed. You’ll want to water two or three times a day for the first week, and then once a day for the next three weeks.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project. But you might not want to spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating. We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who will overseed your lawn and help it grow.
Main Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"When to Overseed a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1789c/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/107df/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/293e9/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/f2cbb/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1789c/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/c26c2/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1dd6e/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/67b76/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/8df11/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/98a65/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1dd6e/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/3cc96/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When to Overseed a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Description: Different grass types grow at different rates. We’ll look at when you should overseed your lawn with each grass type."}}},{"node":{"id":"53e3700b-c3ef-578e-9ab5-2cbee2ccab48","slug":"cool-season-grasses","path":"/blog/cool-season-grasses/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2023","excerpt":"Not all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing […]
\n","content":"\nNot all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing guide will teach you about these grass types and the best ways to maintain them.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are grasses that grow mostly in the spring and fall in the northern regions of the U.S. These grasses include tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. They grow and thrive during cooler temperatures between 60 to 75 degrees, and they withstand extremely cold temperatures well.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are perennials. Therefore, they will come back year after year if they are cared for properly. Although they thrive in cool regions, some of these grasses are also drought-tolerant and can thrive in hotter regions. However, when it is hot, they tend to become dormant until the weather cools. Sometimes, they develop lawn diseases in extreme heat and drought.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost cool-season grasses are native to northern regions of the U.S. See the map below to find out if you live in the cool-season grass growing zone, the warm-season grass growing zone, or the transition zone, where both cool-season and warm-season grasses can thrive.
\n\n\nIllustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nHere are some states where you can expect cool-season grasses to grow:
\n\n\n\nIf you reside in one of these states, you most likely have cool-season grass growing in your yard. For more help identifying the grass your lawn is made of, you can contact your local Cooperative Extension Office.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you already know, cool-season grasses thrive in areas where the temperatures are much cooler throughout the year. Warm-season grasses, on the other hand, grow best in hot summer temperatures, so they tend to grow in the South.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow most actively in temperatures from 75 to 95 degrees. They become dormant below 55 degrees. Popular warm-season grasses include centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe most popular cool-season grass types for lawns in the northern U.S. include:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nIf your grass is a medium to dark green color and grows out of the ground as a wide blade that ends at a point, like a ribbed sword, it is likely you have tall fescue grass growing in your yard. It is a very coarse grass that grows in bunches.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type can handle drought and foot traffic well, but it is a high-maintenance grass. While it may not need fertilizer and water as much as other cool-season grasses, it will require frequent mowing because it grows pretty fast.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nWhen you have fine fescue growing on your lawn, you know it because it is a slender, green-bladed grass type that tends to wilt as it grows. It is not grass that sticks upward like tall fescue. Because it is much thinner, it has a low tolerance for foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nOn a brighter note, this grass can tolerate drought well, and you may see fine fescue in the transition zone. Another excellent quality is that this particular grass doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grasses. There are four common types of fine fescue, including creeping red fescue, Chewings fescue, hard fescue, and sheep fescue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nWhen observing your grass, if you notice that it has a moderate to dark green hue and is a thin blade with a canoe shape, you probably have Kentucky bluegrass. This grass is sturdy and can grow well in the transition zone. But it will go dormant when temperatures rise above 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nThis type of grass can tolerate high foot traffic, making it great for recreational use. However, it is also high maintenance since it needs frequent mowing and lots of irrigation.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you have perennial ryegrass growing in your yard, it tends to be pale green in color and is slender in shape and pointed as it grows. One of its best qualities is that it can stand plenty of foot traffic. It is often combined with Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type will require lots of cutting and irrigation. It will also need plenty of sun.
\n\n\n\nSo, you’ve determined that you have one of the common cool-season grasses on your lawn. That’s a great first step in improving your lawn’s health! Knowing your grass type means you can tailor your lawn care practices to your grass’s specific needs.
\n\n\n\nHere are some ways to keep your cool-season grass healthy and ensure a green lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to watering cool-season grasses, it is ideal to water less often for longer periods so that the water can penetrate the root system. Deep irrigation once a week, ensuring that the grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water, is ideal.
\n\n\n\nOnly water the grass when temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the chances of water freezing on the grass blades. Also, water the grass in the morning, preferably before 8 a.m., as watering in the middle of the day leads to excess evaporation, and evening watering may encourage the growth of lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with a proper lawn irrigation schedule – especially if you want to water the lawn early in the morning before you typically wake up – can be much easier if you install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system with an automatic timer.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nNature provides a majority of what cool-season grasses need to thrive. However, fertilizers can help make your lawn healthier and protect it. Not all fertilizers are the same, however. You must choose the right one for your cool-season grass.
\n\n\n\nIt is ideal to fertilize your lawn at least once a year, preferably in the fall. Overfertilizing your grass can damage it or even kill it, especially if you fertilize in the middle of summer when your cool-season grass is dormant.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen growing cool-season grasses, lawn aeration is also important. This is the process of taking a spike or plug aeration tool and sticking it into the soil to loosen up compacted soil. Aeration allows fresh air, nutrients, and water to penetrate deeper into your grass for better health and growth.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll only need aeration once a year, if that, and it should be done in the fall for cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nOver time, as you water, mow, and fertilize your grass, a small layer of dead and living organic matter called thatch will develop close to the soil. This can make it difficult for water and nutrients to penetrate through the soil to your grass’s roots and can also attract lawn pests.
\n\n\n\nIf this thatch buildup becomes more than one inch thick, it is time to dethatch your lawn using a dethatching rake or mechanical dethatching tool. Cool-season grasses should be dethatched in fall during their most active growth period.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nMowing will vary according to the type of cool-season grass you have in your yard or want to plant. Fine fescue doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grass types. When mowing your grass, make sure that you avoid cutting more than one-third of its height at once.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grass will grow the fastest and need the most frequent mowing in spring and fall. In summer, it’s best to allow your cool-season grass to grow as long as you’re willing to. Longer grass means deeper roots, which means increased drought tolerance. Tall grass also shades the soil and helps it retain water, which is crucial for cool-season grasses in the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nFor best results, ensure that your mower’s blades are sharp to keep the grass from becoming vulnerable to disease and pests. Additionally, make sure the lawn mower blades are clean after previous clippings so that you won’t inadvertently spread disease around the yard from infected blades.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDiseases and pests are two destructive elements that can attack cool-season grasses. Keep in mind there isn’t a one-size fits all process for eliminating disease or pests from your grass. You must identify the specific pest or disease destroying your grass to ensure you use the right fungicide or insecticide. Otherwise, the treatment won’t be effective at all.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Hands](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAnother problem you may encounter is weeds. Unfortunately, they can compete with your cool-season grass for resources. Some of the most common lawn weeds affecting cool-season grasses include but are not limited to the following:
\n\n\n\nTo eliminate these weeds, you’ll have to make sure you treat them properly. Treatments include pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides will block weeds from growing in your yard. They prevent weeds from growing by interrupting the growth process at the start. Ideally, it’s good to use such herbicides when temperatures are between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Pre-emergent herbicides will do nothing to stop weeds that are already growing in your yard.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides are used to treat weeds that are currently growing in your yard. They may be liquid or granular. It is critical that you use such herbicides when it is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Following manufacturer guidelines for application is best.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDamage to your grass can be corrected when you overseed your lawn. This is the process of spreading grass in bare spots to encourage a healthier lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you have recently had a disease on your lawn or you have damaged your grass with fertilizer, adding grass seed helps fill in the thinning grass. For cool-season grasses, overseed in fall at least 45 days before the first frost.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFind specific lawn care tips for every season in this cool-season lawn maintenance calendar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses prefer the cooler regions of the Northern U.S. However, it is possible for cool-season grasses to grow in warmer climates in the transition zone.
Kentucky bluegrass is a cool-season grass that can grow in warmer regions. If it gets too hot for this grass to grow, dormancy will set in.
For cool-season grasses, the dormant period typically begins in winter when temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the year. In northern regions, this can be in the fall.
Cool-season grasses may also go dormant in summer if the temperatures stay above about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If this happens, the grass will turn brown to conserve energy, but it will spring back to life come cooler weather.
The best time to plant cool-season grasses is in the early fall when temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
If maintaining grass isn’t your favorite thing to do, consider hiring a local lawn care pro who will help maintain a healthy lawn and keep it vibrant throughout the growing season. Local pros will know how to deal with all kinds of cool-season grasses, including the specific type in your yard.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: mccawleyphoto / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/107df/cool-season-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/293e9/cool-season-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/f2cbb/cool-season-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/c26c2/cool-season-grass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/67b76/cool-season-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/8df11/cool-season-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/98a65/cool-season-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/3cc96/cool-season-grass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you live in the northern U.S., this guide to cool-season grasses can help you identify your grass type and take care of it properly."}}},{"node":{"id":"ff5060d1-0b95-5566-8d4f-fdefd13e6b51","slug":"how-to-grow-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-grow-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Looking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need! Bahiagrass […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need!
\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: With a moderate to high growth rate, it needs frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nInsect pest tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown along the Gulf Coast and in the Southeastern U.S. It does best in acidic soils and is not the best grass if your soil is naturally alkaline. It doesn’t tolerate salt water well.
\n\n\n\nWhile this may come as a surprise to many, Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) is used mainly as a pasture grass and for hay production across the southeastern United States. However, selected varieties—Argentine and Pensacola, especially—work well as turfgrass species for lawns. Behind St. Augustinegrass, Bahia is the second most common turfgrass across much of the southeastern United States, and for a good reason.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is well-adapted to low-fertility soils and is excellent for homeowners wanting a low-maintenance, low-input lawn. It puts down a deep root system that spreads via underground rhizomes. This root system makes it great for areas prone to drought or lawns without an irrigation system. However, Bahia doesn’t form the same dense carpet as other warm-season grasses that spread using above-ground stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Bahiagrass is not the best choice for every Southern lawn, but it is ideal in many situations, especially if you have many acres of property to cover.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low water needs
\n\n\n\n✓ Low fertilizer requirements
\n\n\n\n✓ Lower maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\n✓ Deep root system
\n\n\n\n✓ Does well in sandy and other low-fertility soils
\n\n\n\n✓ Minimal insect and disease problems
\n\n\n\n✓ Thatch is generally not a concern
\n\n\n\n✓ Establishes from seed or sod
\n\n\n\n✗ Does not form a dense carpet
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed head stems dull mower blades quickly
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed heads need regular mowing, or they become an eyesore
\n\n\n\n✗ Only a few varieties are available for home lawns
\n\n\n\n✗ Open growth habit leaves space for weeds to grow
\n\n\n\nIf you’re considering switching your lawn to Bahiagrass or using it to start grass at a fresh build, you have the option of seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, some crucial differences between the two methods must be considered when choosing.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no denying that planting grass from seed is by far the cheaper of the two options and is much easier labor-wise to “install.” For homeowners with economic constraints, this makes seeding attractive. On the flip side, if you opt for seeding, the grass needs considerably more babysitting during the establishment process and takes quite a bit of time to grow into a beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod comes with a pretty hefty price tag, and the process is back-breaking – even more so for Bahiagrass sod, as it tends to fall apart unless you spend extra money for sod with a netting material to hold it together. That being said, once you get it down, you automatically have a nice green lawn, and it doesn’t take micromanaging to get it established like seeding does.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Depending on where you purchase seed from, expect to pay $100-$110 for a 25 lb bag of Pensacola Bahiagrass seed.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: A 400-square-foot pallet of Bahiagrass sod costs approximately $113 to $134.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Getting grass seed down in late spring or early summer is best. Warm-season grasses like Bahia grow the most when the air temperatures hit a whopping 85 to 95°F, so you want to plant just before temps climb this high. This helps your grass establish as quickly as possible, putting down a sound root system so it is well-prepared to go dormant and survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nNote: Not all grass seeds you scatter will germinate; some Bahiagrass seeds lay dormant and may sprout later in the season.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: Sod is a little more forgiving timing-wise and can be put down whenever you have time to tackle the project. However! You’ll have a much easier time getting it established if you do it in the spring or fall when temperatures are more moderate.
\n\n\n\nSince Bahia grows a little more sparsely than other turfgrasses, you can overseed your lawn annually with more Bahiagrass seed to keep it as thick as possible. Remember that no matter what you do, it will never grow as thick as Zoysia or other turfs with dense growth habits.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Yes, I’ve said that Bahiagrass is low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need your attention at all. Here are the basic rules of Bahiagrass lawn maintenance to follow.
\n\n\n\nIt was mentioned that Bahiagrass is fantastic for large acres and properties without irrigation. This doesn’t mean it will stay green regardless of how little or how much water it gets.
\n\n\n\nWhen you’re growing Bahiagrass without irrigation, it will go into a state of dormancy and turn brown during long periods of drought. Once the rain returns, the grass greens back up and resumes growing. In climates such as Florida, where it rains most days, you may not ever need to give a Bahia lawn supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nIf you can water your lawn, it’s best to keep an eye on it and watch for signs it needs water. You’ll see folded grass blades, a color change, and footprints will remain on the grass after you walk across it. So, if you see these things, turn on the sprinklers and give your grass one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water to get it green and perky.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer specifics will depend on the soil in your yard and how you’ve managed it before. You need to account for soil type, organic matter content, if you’ve mulched clippings back into the lawn, etc. To get an exact recommendation, perform a soil test before seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nAs a general rule of thumb, apply 1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of yard annually.
\n\n\n\nAlways check local guidelines for lawn fertilizer blackout dates or ordinances regarding its application.
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer, Bahia is known for its characteristic Y-shaped, two- or three-branched seed heads. To keep them in check and your grass looking nice, expect to mow your lawn every one to two weeks. During the hottest parts of summer, you may need to cut it a little more frequently unless you don’t mind the seed heads, but you’ll want to keep your grass 3 to 4 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nThe seed head stems are tough on mower blades, so you may need to sharpen them more frequently than with other grasses. Keeping mower blades sharp will help give you an excellent crisp cut when you mow instead of tearing the tops of the grass off with dull mower blades.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a Bahiagrass lawn weed-free is a challenge since Bahia doesn’t grow as thick or dense as some grass types. Weeds love to come in and reside in those bare spots and compete with your grass for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo do this, keep your grass mowed to the proper height, irrigate when you see signs of drought stress, and fertilize throughout the growing season. You can also consider periodically overseeding to help fill in some bare spots where the weeds like to hang out.
\n\n\n\nWhen proper lawn management doesn’t succeed in weed control, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are available in both chemical and organic formulations. Just stay away from products containing atrazine and metsulfuron because they damage Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, Bahia lawns experience very few insect and disease problems. Watch for mole crickets, Bahiagrass billbugs, and fall armyworms, as they may cause issues in Bahiagrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nThe two classifications of turfgrass are distinguished by where they have adapted to grow the best. Warm-season grasses prefer hot summers and mild winters and grow in the South. Cool-season grasses like temperate summers and can tolerate brutal winters; they grow mainly in the northern United States.
Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass.
Bahiagrass is typically grown on sandy soils in coastal areas, so there isn’t a need to aerate, as these soils don’t compact. Also, it isn’t a grass type that develops a lot of thatch, so dethatching isn’t usually necessary.
Sometimes, when it’s growing where it isn’t wanted, Bahiagrass is considered a weed rather than a turfgrass. If Bahiagrass is a weed in your book, and it’s overrunning your lawn, see our guide on how to get rid of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nIf you think a Bahiagrass lawn is a good fit for your landscape, contact one of our highly-qualified local lawn professionals. They can help get your lawn started or care for your established turf, giving you more time to spend doing what matters most to you – without sacrificing the quality of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/107df/Bahiagrass.jpg 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/293e9/Bahiagrass.jpg 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/f2cbb/Bahiagrass.jpg 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/c26c2/Bahiagrass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/67b76/Bahiagrass.webp 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/8df11/Bahiagrass.webp 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/98a65/Bahiagrass.webp 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/3cc96/Bahiagrass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Bahiagrass is a great, low-maintenance grass for Southern lawns with sandy soils. We have all the information you need if you’re looking to grow it!"}}},{"node":{"id":"bd23c7a6-56c1-5baf-b0d7-e3b495e7ae45","slug":"pre-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/pre-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"There’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn weeds. Don’t worry. We get it, and we got you. This article explains how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weeds from ever sprouting in your lawn again.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe timing of pre-emergent herbicide application is everything. Pre-emergents will not help you with pesky dandelions or foxtails that seem to be stalking you if they are already sprouting in your lawn. You must apply pre-emergent herbicides before the times of year when weed seeds begin to germinate.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSpring pre-emergent herbicide applications prevent summer annual weeds, like goosegrass and crabgrass. Apply when the soil temperature is about 55 degrees or higher for 48 hours or longer.
\n\n\n\nThe month or time of the month you apply weed control will be determined by what part of the country you live in since climates and weather differ according to location. That’s why it’s better to sync your herbicide applications with the soil temperature rather than a specific date. You can find a soil thermometer online or at your local gardening supply store for less than $10.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApplying pre-emergent herbicide in the early fall prevents winter annual weeds, like common chickweed and annual bluegrass. Apply when the soil temperature falls to around 70 degrees for three days or more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse the product as instructed on the package, including following the proper measurement amounts per area covered. It is also important that you protect yourself from these toxic chemicals.
\n\n\n\nProtective gear to wear when applying herbicides:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re protected, you can apply pre-emergent herbicides in one of two ways, depending on whether the product you purchased is granular or liquid.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Professional](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Professional-Gardener-with-Lawn-and-Garden-Seed-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGranules are applied by hand or via a shaker bag or spreader. A spreader is best when covering a large area. A cup can be filled with granules and then shaken out from the cup onto the lawn, but this method can take a while.
\n\n\n\nWater the lawn after spreading granules so the herbicide can penetrate the soil, allowing the active ingredients to attack the weed seeds.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Preparing-Pest-Control-Spraying-Equipment.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiquid pre-emergents come in ready-to-use or concentrated forms. If the liquid is in concentrated form, it requires mixing with water, and a sprayer is used for application. Ready-to-use pre-emergents don’t need mixing and typically come in a spray bottle or sprayer.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve been doing your homework and researching weed control solutions, you have come across both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating. They do not kill weed seeds that have already germinated or actively growing weeds.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, post-emergent herbicides control weeds that have sprouted and are growing.
\n\n\n\nA few herbicides contain chemicals that perform as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. Products with Dithiopyr are examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe active ingredients in pre-emergents are triggered when watered, which allows the chemicals to penetrate the soil. The chemicals form a barricade on the top of the soil which stops seeds from germinating. Depending on the chemicals in the product, they may stop the roots from growing, prevent seed cell division, or inhibit growth enzymes.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s important to make sure you get the right type of pre-emergent herbicide for your specific weed problem. Otherwise, you might end up hurting your lawn, too, and not just the weeds. The two categories of pre-emergent herbicides are selective and nonselective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides control specific weeds without adversely affecting other plants. Most pre-emergent herbicides used for home lawns fall into this category.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNonselective herbicides kill all plants. Because of this, nonselective herbicides are used to spot-treat specific plants rather than being applied to the whole lawn or garden. Don’t apply nonselective herbicides around the same time you seed new grass, or they will prevent the grass from growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPre-emergents should only be used on turfgrass that has been established for at least one year. Grass can be damaged if pre-emergents are applied too soon after reseeding or overseeding the lawn.
\n\n\n\nSome cool-season grasses that can be injured by pre-emergent applications after the grass has been seeded are tall fescue and ryegrass. Warm-season grasses adversely affected are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nExamples of grasses that can be damaged by pre-emergent herbicides after sodding or sprigging are the warm-season grasses St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot all weed killers kill all weeds. So, knowing the type of weed that is growing is important. Make sure you are identifying the weed correctly. Some weed killers destroy broadleaf weeds like spurge, clover, and ragweed. Others are chemically formulated to control grassy weeds, like foxtail and barnyardgrass.
\n\n\n\nAlso, knowing your grass type is important. As previously explained, certain weed killers are recommended for use on certain types of grass seed, while some come with a warning to never be used on specific grass types.
\n\n\n\nSome products are weed killers and fertilizers in one. But homeowners should only fertilize plants and lawns when they are growing actively. Therefore, using a weed and feed product may not be a good idea. Homeowners should never use a two-in-one herbicide on warm-season turfgrasses like Zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of active ingredients in pre-emergent herbicides and what grass types or kinds of plants on which they can be used safely:
\n\n\n\nAtrazine:
\n\n\n\nBenefin:
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr:
\n\n\n\nIndaziflam:
\n\n\n\nProdiamine:
\n\n\n\nWait at least eight to 10 weeks after using weed killers to reseed your lawn, or the seeds can be killed by the weed control chemicals.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal can be used on henbit in early spring to inhibit seed germination. If the seeds have already germinated, applying the meal can cause the weed to grow. Apply corn gluten meal when it is going to be dry for at least two days; roots in moist soil can absorb nutrients that activate weed growth. Monthly reapplications may be necessary.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass that is not properly maintained can result in weed growth. Lawns need to be mowed at the correct heights, fertilized regularly, and watered at the proper frequency to grow thick enough to crowd out weeds. Thin or bare turfgrass can promote weed growth.
\n\n\n\nIn gardens, new weed seeds can be introduced by mowers used on grass that had weeds. However, most weeds in gardens are from seeds that developed in previous years in the garden. Weeds can also emerge when plants are spaced too far apart.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHere are some things you can do to manage weeds:
\n\n\n\nHere are some proactive weed management tips:
\n\n\n\nWhile dinitroanilines control some broadleaf weeds, they do not control perennials, like nutsedges, for example.
\n\n\n\nHerbicides can contain chemicals that both attract and harm pets. Animals can be adversely affected by eating plants treated with herbicides and by inhaling the toxins from treated plants. Some tips to keep pets safe are:
\n\n\n\nBeing one step ahead of weeds is the only way to prevent them. If you know when weed seeds are germinating, you can apply pre-emergent herbicide to keep them from ever sprouting in your lawn. And if you prevent weeds, you’ll never have to pull them.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes down to it, weed management can be a pain. You have to keep up with a regular schedule, and if you miss just one herbicide application, you could end up with a lawn full of weeds in no time. If you prefer to let someone else manage your lawn care, we can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can keep your lawn pristine and weed-free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Henfaes / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4388489208633093,"src":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/107df/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/293e9/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/f2cbb/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/c26c2/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/67b76/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/8df11/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/98a65/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/3cc96/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Find out how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides, including examples of which chemicals prevent which weeds and answers to FAQs."}}},{"node":{"id":"0b042427-3c41-556f-9dc9-902ee6349ea0","slug":"the-14-major-metro-areas-with-the-most-new-homes","path":"/blog/the-14-major-metro-areas-with-the-most-new-homes/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"April 6th, 2019","excerpt":"By John Egan They’re truly raising the roofs in the Austin, TX, metro area. A WikiLawn analysis of new data from the U.S. Census Bureau shows that among the country’s 50 biggest metros, the Austin area boasts the largest share of homes (nearly 3.3 percent) built in 2014 or later. No other major metro surpassed […]
\n","content":"\nBy John Egan
They’re truly raising the roofs in the Austin, TX, metro area.
A WikiLawn analysis of new data from the U.S. Census Bureau shows that among the country’s 50 biggest metros, the Austin area boasts the largest share of homes (nearly 3.3 percent) built in 2014 or later.
No other major metro surpassed the 3 percent mark for new housing units, such as houses, apartments and condos. Nationwide, 0.9 percent of all housing units were considered new as of 2017, the Census Bureau data indicates.
Rounding out the top five were:
2. Raleigh, NC (a little over 2.4 percent).
\n\n\n\n3. Houston, TX (a little over 2.2 percent).
\n\n\n\n4. San Antonio, TX (nearly 2.2 percent).
\n\n\n\n5. Nashville, TN, (nearly 2.1 percent).
The full list appears below.
The newly released Census Bureau data, gathered through the American Community Survey, gives estimates of a host of housing, economic and demographic milestones in the U.S. through 2017. Among them is the number of housing units constructed from 2014 to 2017 in every U.S. metro.
Of the 14 major metro areas with the most new homes, our analysis finds that four of them are in Texas — Austin, Dallas-Fort Worth, Houston and San Antonio. Two metros in Florida appear in our tally (Jacksonville and Orlando), as do two in North Carolina (Charlotte and Raleigh).
Not surprisingly, all of the metros on our new-housing list have experienced significant surges in population in recent years. After all, a bump in population ordinarily prompts a need for more places to live.
Among the 10 U.S. metros with the fastest-growing population (on a percentage basis) from 2016 to 2017, only Austin also shows up in our new-home ranking. In just one year, the Austin area’s population climbed 2.7 percent, Census Bureau data shows.
Examined another way, though, five of the 14 metros on our list also are among the country’s fastest-growing.
From 2016 to 2017 alone, Dallas-Fort Worth led all U.S. metro areas for the raw number of residents added (146,238), according to the Census Bureau. Houston was No. 2, adding 94,417 residents; Seattle, WA, was No. 6, with 64,386 new residents; Orlando was No. 8, with 56,498; and Austin was No. 9, with 55,269.
While areas like the ones in our ranking are putting up new housing units at a fairly speedy clip, that’s not enough to meet overall demand. According to new research from mortgage lender Freddie Mac, the annual rate of housing construction across the U.S. currently is about 370,000 units shy of the level required to satisfy housing needs — especially the rising demand for affordable homes and apartments — over the long term.
Aggravating the housing supply-and-demand imbalance is an escalating shortage of laborers and subcontractors for construction of single-family homes.
While Austin sits at No. 1 in our ranking for the heftiest share of new homes, the Austin Strategic Housing Blueprint estimated that at least 135,000 more housing units would need to be built just in the city — not the entire metro area — from 2015 through 2025 to accommodate even more residents. The Austin City Council adopted the blueprint in 2017.
“The biggest problem with housing is that there’s just not enough of it to go around,” Austin Mayor Steve Adler said in 2017. “I’m here to tell you that the law of supply and demand, and its relationship to prices, applies even in Austin. We simply don’t have enough housing supply now to keep up with demand. And by not creating enough housing in Austin, we’re pushing people out of town to cheaper housing in surrounding communities, adding to their commute, our congestion and everyone’s expenses.”
Making matters worse: The population boom in Austin and the surrounding suburbs isn’t cooling off anytime soon. If current projections are accurate, the Austin metro area will have welcomed more than 190,000 residents from 2017 to 2020.
“Due to rapid population growth throughout Central Texas, Austin continues to have one of the highest demands for housing in the nation,” Brandy Guthrie, 2017 president of the Austin Board of Realtors, said in December 2017.
Led by Austin, here’s our list of the 14 Metro Areas With the Most New Homes (as a percentage of all housing units).
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Austin-TX.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 786,584
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 25,850
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 3.29%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Raleigh-NC.jpg\")
Total housing units: 511,414
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 12,435
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 2.43%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Houston-TX.jpg\")
Total housing units: 2,499,292
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 55,934
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 2.24%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Antonio-TX.jpg\")
Total housing units: 874,247
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 19,141
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 2.19%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Nashville-TN-1.jpg\")
Total housing units: 747,845
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 15,515
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 2.07%
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Dallas-TX.jpg?fit=1024%2C563&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 2,696,167
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 51,922
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.93%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Orlando-FL.jpg\")
Total housing units: 995,591
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 17,989
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.81%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Oklahoma-City-OK.jpg\")
Total housing units: 563,445
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 9,878
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.75%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Jacksonville-FL.jpg?fit=1024%2C681&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 625,888
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 10,709
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.71%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Denver-CO.jpg\")
Total housing units: 1,136,616
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 18,588
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.64%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Charlotte-North-Carolina.jpg\")
Total housing units: 993,111
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 16,061
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.62%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Salt-Lake-City-UT.jpg\")
Total housing units: 405,112
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 6,057
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.50%
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Seattle-WA.jpg?fit=1024%2C498&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 1,544,134
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 22,148
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.43%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Portland-OR.jpg?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 966,346
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 12,245
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.27%
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
Surely there is another way to kill stubborn weeds than using dangerous chemicals or expensive organic herbicides, right? Right. This article discusses how to use salt to kill weeds. It turns out you can get rid of weeds in a way that does not pose a health risk to you and your loved ones. And […]
\n","content":"\nSurely there is another way to kill stubborn weeds than using dangerous chemicals or expensive organic herbicides, right? Right. This article discusses how to use salt to kill weeds. It turns out you can get rid of weeds in a way that does not pose a health risk to you and your loved ones. And it’s right in your kitchen cabinet!
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to learn how to kill weeds with salt instead of toxic chemicals like Roundup.
\n\n\nWho knew sodium chloride, aka regular ole table salt, could be so useful in the yard? Even if all you have is the salt you use to season your food, you can use it to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location where it gets icy regularly, you may also keep rock salt, the salt placed on the ground to eat away ice in winter, in the house. It can also be used to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nSolutions more concentrated with salt can disrupt the soil composition and hurt other plants you want to keep. So, a 1-to-2 salt-to-water mixture is best in a flower bed or on your lawn. You can start with a 1:3 salt-to-water ratio and increase the salt content daily until it starts killing the weeds.
\n\n\n\nIn areas where soil health preservation is not important, like cracks in the driveway, a 2:1 or 3:1 salt-to-water ratio can be used to kill the weeds more quickly and with fewer applications.
\n\n\n\nAdd a little white vinegar and liquid dish soap to make the salt solution more effective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nThere are a couple of ways to apply rock salt as a post-emergent weed killer.
\n\n\n\nEasy No-Mix Rock Salt Weed Killer: Sprinkle a little rock salt on the ground at the base of the weed. This is a fast method for controlling weeds sprouting in driveways and walkways and between pavers. The pesky plants will die within about a week and a half. Rock salt will also kill grass and other plants and stop anything from growing where it has been sprinkled, giving it a pre-emergent herbicidal quality. Rain will eventually dissipate the effects.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Spray Recipe: Add 1 cup of rock salt to 1 gallon of hot water. Mix until the salt is dissolved. Put the combination into a spray bottle. This solution is a good way to kill weeds in grass and flower beds because you can spray it directly on weeds and keep it from coming into contact with the plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/using-spray-to-kill-a-weed-in-mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: killerb10 / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve mixed your salt spray, spray it directly onto the weeds you want to kill. Be careful not to get too much salt water on your grass or ornamental plants. After five days, respray the weeds. Wait another five days and reapply. If there is torrential rain, it could dilute the salt, and you may have to reapply it sooner than five days.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t want to saturate your soil with salt water. It can harm the soil and nearby plants. So, after spraying weeds with salt water, thoroughly water the roots of any nearby vegetation to dilute any salt solution that made contact with grass or ornamentals.
\n\n\n\nOverall, a salt spray is best for small-scale weed problems.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe type of salt used is important. It must be rock salt or sodium chloride to kill weeds. Table salt that is iodized or non-iodized will work. Avoid using sea salt and magnesium sulfate, which is also known as Epsom salt.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSalt is so effective at killing weeds that it can kill other plants and disrupt the soil composition so that nothing grows for a few years. As previously stated, this prevention of regrowth gives salt a pre-emergent herbicidal quality.
\n\n\n\nSalt contains acetic acid, which pulls out moisture. The way salt kills weeds is by dehydrating them and disrupting the plant cells’ internal water balance. Weeds absorb this natural weed killer more when water is added to the salt. Salt burns the foliage and prevents the plant from getting sufficient water.
\n\n\n\nWhite vinegar also has acetic acid, so adding a little of it to your salt solution will increase the moisture extraction effects.
\n\n\n\nAdding a little liquid dish soap to your solution can also make the salt more effective because dish soap is a surfactant, meaning it reduces the water’s surface tension, enabling the plant to absorb more of the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"salt](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/salt-being-poured-from-someones-fingers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: taffpix / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt is not toxic like chemical herbicides. However, applying salt as a weed killer does come with advantages and disadvantages. Let’s look at some:
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\n✓ Does not cause health risks that herbicidal chemicals containing ingredients like 2,4-D and glyphosate are linked to, such as endocrine disruption and cancer
✓ Cheaper weed killer than commercial herbicides
✓ Children and pets do not have to stay off the grass to avoid toxic exposure
✓ Effectively kills smaller weeds
✓ Can be used near edible plants without exposing them to dangerous chemicals
Cons:
\n\n\n\n✗ Large quantities can change the pH level of the soil and make it sterile
✗ Can kill nearby plants and grass
✗ May not work on salt-tolerant plants
✗ Not as effective on large plants
✗ Should be used for weed killing on a small scale
Salt is not the only homemade weed killer that can effectively replace toxic chemical herbicides.
\n\n\n\nBoiling water has some of the same benefits and disadvantages as a salt solution. Surrounding plants can be damaged if boiling water splashes on them. On the other hand, boiling water will not disturb the chemical composition of the soil and damage it or prevent future growth.
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions usually include adding salt, but the amount of salt is less. The most effective vinegar mixtures are made with vinegar that is 20% acetic acid, also known as herbicidal vinegar. These weed killers, like salt, can change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\nUltimately, the decision of which homemade weed-killing method to use is up to you. To salt or not to salt? That is the question. All of these non-toxic herbicides are safer for pets and humans than their commercial herbicide counterparts.
\n\n\n\nIt typically takes about 10 days for a salt and water solution to kill existing weeds.
Practicing good lawn care management regularly will help prevent weeds in the first place. It is difficult for unwanted plants to sprout in a well-kept lawn or garden. Here are some tips for preventing weeds in your landscape:
● Use mulch in gardens and on the lawn. Mulch stops weed growth. Apply organic mulch to decrease weed germination. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn after mowing is a natural way to fertilize the grass and suppress weeds. However, leaving clippings when you have lawn weeds will spread the seeds.
● Check for weeds regularly so you can eliminate them when they are young and few.
● Plant grass seed adapted to your area, which will thrive in your climate and more easily outcompete local weeds.
● Mow, water, and fertilize the grass as recommended for your grass type. See recommendations for cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses in our guides.
● Treat the lawn for diseases and insects to keep the grass healthy and weed-resistant.
● Pull up weeds with a tool or by hand and remove the taproot to prevent regrowth.
● Plant ground cover. These ornamentals spread quickly, providing a dense carpet that smothers and suppresses weeds.
Pulling weeds by hand or with a tool is an eco-friendly method that doesn’t affect the soil or other plants. It is easier to manage weeds this way when there are only a few of them and they are young. Wet the soil to remove weeds more easily. Ensure you have removed the entire root system to prevent regrowth.
Having a way to manage weeds that is cheaper and more convenient than commercial herbicides is nice. Having a way to manage weeds that is safer for your family, fur babies, and the environment is priceless. Salt is both!
\n\n\n\n
But if you need a break from DIY landscape maintenance, there is a way you can have your cake and eat it, too. Enjoy a beautiful, thriving yard and some leisure time by connecting with qualified lawn care professionals in your area to do all the work while you chill.
Main Photo Credit: ac_bnphotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/107df/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/293e9/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/f2cbb/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/c26c2/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/67b76/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/8df11/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/98a65/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/3cc96/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Did you know you have an ingredient in your kitchen that can kill weeds? Learn how to use salt to kill weeds instead of dangerous herbicides."}}},{"node":{"id":"0cae6c7f-d05a-55a4-9bf8-5213acbf89bd","slug":"victory-garden","path":"/blog/home-and-garden/victory-garden/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Brenda Stuart is a radio journalist and content manager whose goal is to have the greenest lawn and prettiest garden on the block.","name":"Brenda Stuart","id":"fcad9a7b-532b-583f-832f-0cffbbcfa0a3","path":"/author/brendastuartryangmail-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5e5ae7b8ac8b21db046b4f507fbec2aa?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"}],"date":"April 14th, 2020","excerpt":"How a Modern-Day ‘Victory Garden’ Can Help You Through the Coronavirus Pandemic As the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to […]
\n","content":"\nAs the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to lay in enough food, water, medicine, disinfectants, and other supplies to last for several weeks of self-isolation.
\n\n\n\nDuring uncertain times like these, it’s natural to wonder whether you could practice social distancing and simultaneously minimize your long-term dependency on the grocery store by growing food and natural remedies in your own backyard. The answer is yes — with plenty of planning, effort, and time (which, if you’re stuck at home, you’ll have more of than usual). Here are things to think about, plus tips for preparing, planting, and maintaining a garden that can help you survive an emergency.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t have to become a full-blown prepper or try to survive exclusively off the land. Think of it more like the victory gardens your grandparents or great-grandparents may have planted. You can grow some herbs and vegetables in pots on a balcony or convert a large portion of your yard to staple crops, or anything in between. Either way:
\n\n\n\nAnyone! Obviously, the space you have and the time you’re willing to spend will determine the scale. Few people can completely support themselves, especially right away — but anything you grow helps your budget and saves a trip to the store.
\n\n\n\nEspecially if you’re new to the gardening game, it can help to:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ajPU9FrhuAjKC-fQLjorDE1Vor0MHxPQqBa8Q9l0T-sG2jnvW9tG5b3pS30SEzuT-nwjcTJXJgAGF5p5JAmmpFgm--1oJFdPCXGymEU8A6Csz8DBImQLpd7cyF1LONqtRLpJ8uJZ\")
If you want good results, you can’t just start sticking plants in the ground. Gardening depends on a lot of factors, and you need to consider them first. (THEN you can start sticking plants in the ground!)
Think about:
\n\n\n\nThe country’s median garden size is about 96 square feet (8 feet by 12 feet). That’s very close to 100 square feet — the ideal size for a summer vegetable garden that can fill the needs of one person.
\n\n\n\nSo, how much food can a space like that yield? One gardener writing for Mother Earth News calculated her 100-square-foot plot’s annual yield at 77.5 pounds of tomatoes, 15.5 pounds of bell peppers, 14.3 pounds of lettuce, 2.5 pounds of basil, and 126 pounds of zucchini!
\n\n\n\nAlso pay attention to the amount of sun and shade your intended plot will get, so you can decide which plants should go where. Lots of gardening websites offer garden planners to help you visualize and design your plot.
\n\n\n\nA clean water supply is important, of course. Unless your area gets a lot of rainfall, you’ll probably be watering from your household water supply by hand, hose, or sprinkler. It’s easy to install a water filter to prevent chlorine, salts, and other chemicals from getting into your soil and your food — there are filters that screw right onto your garden hose!
\n\n\n\nYou’ll also need fertile soil that’s been tilled or loosened and is free of rocks and debris. If you’re converting a yard from turf, turning the soil for the first time will be one of the most time- and labor-intensive steps in the process. Prepare yourself now!
\n\n\n\nYou can learn things about your soil in the process, including its history of pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer use. You’ll also get to know the consistency of the soil texture — what proportions of sand, silt, clay, or loam it contains — plus how much rock you’ll need to remove.
\n\n\n\nA garden will take up as much time as you give it, but most sources seem to agree that once plants are in the ground and growing, you’ll devote at minimum 5-10 hours per week to planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc.
\n\n\n\nAlso, when starting a survival garden, you probably want the period from planting to harvest to take as little time as possible, so consider sowing some fast-growing plants in your first crop. (See 17 Fastest-Growing Backyard Crops, below, for suggestions.)
There are some basic tools every backyard gardener needs to begin with, including:
\n\n\n\nOnce your garden starts growing and you get a little deeper in, you also might need:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FCQrAn04mB_snbI5J9SjwmYuTLmEicgYhZF9N0T6y1cl_h2p4XyTEf-acUONsMvrIsACQPGYgYJ4s6K_if6UsVvKi3QNmBLrONRS3rdQp_N7JFdA-zW_2Mo9ThUqh4iTc4bWeAN2\")
When it comes to selecting crops for a survival garden, everybody has different needs and tastes. Here’s a basic example of the types of staple crops you can plant:
\n\n\n\nThese veggies have different growing seasons, which can allow you to start a few kinds of plants at a time and focus on establishing them before it’s time to get the next crop going. (Just make sure to plan your garden layout with enough room for everybody.) This also means there should be something new that’s ready to harvest throughout most of the year.
\n\n\n\nThere are plenty of different lenses to help you focus your plant choices. You can consider growing time; ease of cultivation; protein, calorie or vitamin content. Luckily, many plants show up on multiple lists and grow well in your area. If you like to eat them (and bonus: if your kids like to eat them), then give them a try in your victory garden!
\n\n\n\nRemember growing bean sprouts in school? There’s a reason kindergarten teachers everywhere choose them: The seeds sprout and turn in visible results in almost no time.
| Food | Average days from sowing to harvest |
| green onions | 20-30 days |
| radishes | 25 days |
| spinach | 30 days |
| arugula | 30 days |
| carrots | 30-50 days |
| lettuce | 30-45 days |
| summer squash/ zucchini | 35 days |
| bush beans | 60 days |
| bok choy | 45-60 days |
| cucumbers | 50 days |
| beets | greens: 30 days / roots: 50 days |
| okra | 50-55 days |
| kale | 50-65 days |
| snow peas | 60 days |
| broccoli | 60 days |
| turnips | greens: 40 days / roots: 60 days |
Start your first survival garden season with some of these fast-growing crops, and you could be harvesting dinner within a few months.
Some crops are just easier than others. First-timer? You might want to stick with the crops easiest to grow in your area. Got some dirt under your nails? Go for the more finicky varieties.
\n\n\n\n| Easier-to-grow crops | Harder-to-grow crops |
| cucumbers | arugula |
| garlic | bok choy |
| green beans | broccoli |
| kale | cauliflower |
| lettuce | eggplant |
| peas | mustard greens |
| potatoes | onions |
| radishes* | radishes* |
| summer squash/ zucchini | spinach |
*Wondering why radishes show up on both the easy-to-grow and hard-to-grow lists? Because it’s easy to get radishes sprouted and growing, but not always easy to keep this cool-weather plant from bolting (prematurely flowering and going to seed before producing food) in warm weather. The same is true for many on the hard-to-grow list.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7Yq5PyMIaG19xvaGbAMWwzljZf_L_koSskCafJvn8meFWXnRMFxb0edNXNBihTTJW1xyEGBoMtLgMgnN88fiY6iGmKuroL_LpaSULhzy8WrKYPzC1Dz2pvOe9cD4-PU8MBa6s8Mn\")
If you’re trying to keep your family fed in a crisis situation, calories (boosting them, that is — not cutting them down!) may become more important than you ever thought possible. These are among the most calorie-dense crops you can plant.
| Food | Average calories |
| sunflower seeds | 700 kcals per cup (shelled) |
| avocado | 370 kcals per cup (puréed) |
| soybeans | 300 kcals per cup |
| potatoes | 260 kcals each (medium) |
| lima beans | 210 kcals per cup |
| corn | 130 kcals per ear |
| sweet potatoes | 130 kcals each (medium) |
| pinto beans | 80 kcals per cup |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Protein is also important for maintaining proper health. There are plenty of ways to get protein into your garden and onto your plate.
| Food | Average protein per cup |
| soybeans | 68 grams |
| pumpkin seeds | 36 grams |
| pinto beans | 28 grams |
| quinoa | 24 grams |
| buckwheat | 22 grams |
| peanuts | 16 grams |
| chickpeas | 14 grams |
| broccoli | 2.5 grams |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Besides legumes and grains, many green veggies are high in protein — such as broccoli, which contains more protein per calorie than steak. (You’d just have to eat many more mouthfuls of greens to get the same number of calories as you’d get from the animal products.)
A smart way to reduce food waste and get more of the crops you already like to eat is to regrow food from cuttings. This also saves unnecessary trips to the store or garden center. If you’ve never done this before, now is a great time to start. Here are some foods you can regrow.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/foods-grow-from-cuttings-424x1024.png\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/y3g3ijCjNGPvHrh4BSQpVnskWjnV4j85j1X7lgbPoC-vgSwK_MwmBaOl4IP53eiGu8hBPZhcrGx_RW2KUFt1aGmOGdgsxLiV-GaYCIJbtpPFAPpQyyH8fM8kgdJ2rZlnDTlybKUp\")
Both in the soil and in your home, vegetables in your survival garden will be complemented by other plants. Medicinal herbs can replace store-bought supplements or pharmaceuticals in healing injury and relieving illnesses, and other plants can help you replace household items.
\n\n\n\nSelf-sufficiency is always a great feeling, but it’s of much greater importance during a crisis. If store-bought pharmaceuticals are unavailable, you might be able to harvest something from the garden to help relieve an injury or malady. These are some conditions that have been treated using medicinal herbs:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/medicinal-gardening-plants-515x1024.png\")
For centuries, people have made tea from the leaves of various plants to relieve certain ailments. Here are some plants that make herbal teas believed to offer health benefits:
\n\n\n\nBecause of their natural antiseptic and pain-relieving benefits, these plants can be made into topical applications — oils, ointments, washes, poultices, or salves — to relieve skin irritation, inflammation, or muscular pain, as well as heal cuts, scrapes, bruises, and burns.
\n\n\n\nSome medicinal plants look like other plants that can be toxic or even deadly, so make sure you pay attention. (And remember: This is by no means a comprehensive list!)
\n\n\n\nAlso, some plants have similar names. For example, don’t confuse black cohosh — used for easing menstrual cramps and hot flashes — with blue cohosh, which can cause miscarriage in pregnant women. The raw berries also can cause vomiting and diarrhea in children if ingested.
Hopefully, you won’t run out of toilet paper or any of the next-most-useful replacements like tissues, napkins, or paper towels. But if you get to the point of looking for rugged, old-school solutions, leaves are your best bet. Check your backyard. The following trees and plants are good candidates because of the size, softness, thickness, and durability of their leaves. As a bonus, they also generally don’t contain any skin-irritating chemicals.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/leaves-toilet-paper-530x1024.png\")
If you don’t already have access to any of these, it might not be a bad idea to plant a few — just in case. Mullein, mallow, lamb’s ear, and asters do well in gardens across the U.S. Corn lily and thimbleberry are mountainous and grow best at higher altitudes. (Remember: It’s important to make sure you know exactly what a plant is before you use it on any part of your body.)
Of course you’ve stocked plenty of rope among your supplies. But what happens if it gets lost, stolen, or somehow compromised? You make your own rope, of course — armed with know-how, plenty of time, immense patience, no small amount of labor, and any of these plants.
![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/plants-to-use-for-rope-792x1024.png\")
Some of these fibrous plants will work better than others in your garden. Milkweed complements mainstream garden life, encouraging butterflies that help with pollination. Conversely, because of their unfriendly properties, dogbane and stinging nettle require a more out-of-the-way spot.
The United States is immense, so there’s no single typical growing season or harvest period. Instead, the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture has designated “plant hardiness zones” to guide planting all across the country. The zones are determined by the lowest winter temperatures (historically averaged) as they occur across the geographic areas of the U.S.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/HQQYKeGK6GIU9sUn_w4EXbso5sQmYqCPfoOlFyo9Mrdbcdq9nkiAHy5FYKOjtyyqKW_7BIexOk_bETF1_Iz7Obdrki04UicfuEG07ykbCRvc2TgpT4-5lyMpf0C1Wxf8Nazx10r-\")
Hardiness zone maps are also accessible by state or by region. Using them to figure out the specific temperature range for your area can help you gauge which plants will grow best and last longest.
\n\n\n\nOnce you know your zone, you can begin to figure out a timetable that will work for gardening in your area. Several websites provide a planting and harvest calendar for each zone, as well as suggestions for vegetables and general planting advice.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve decided what to grow and planned where and when to grow it, it’s finally time for the how: Get your hands dirty and dig into the soil!
\n\n\n\nRaised beds
\n\n\n\nOne of the most common gardening methods, planting in raised beds involves turning the bed soil, then adding more soil and compost on top. Beds can be contained in boxes where the entire surface is raised, or soil can be formed into mounds or rows above the original surface. A raised-bed design can offer several advantages:
\n\n\n\nHills
\n\n\n\nYou’ve heard the expression “doesn’t amount to a hill of beans?” Yep, beans grow best in hills. Planting in hills (or mounds) works well for vining plants like beans, squash, cucumbers, and melons. Often they’re planted with a vertical frame for the vines to climb.
\n\n\n\nRows
\n\n\n\nTraditional gardens planted in rows can be especially useful for supporting large crops like corn, canning tomatoes, potatoes and other produce that takes up a lot of room.
\n\n\n\nWhen your food is coming from it, you want to make sure your soil is as clean, chemical-free, and nutritious as possible. If you or previous land occupants have used pesticides or herbicides in the bed soil, you’ll probably want to make raised beds and add organic soil and compost. After that, adding an annual layer of compost adds nutrients and continually improves the soil.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers From the Kitchen
\n\n\n\nYou’re also probably looking for a shorter timeline than it takes for a compost pile to “ripen” for use, so meanwhile, you can divert these classic compost ingredients directly into the soil as DIY fertilizers:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/things-to-add-to-soil-compost.png\")
Vegetables and other plants vary in the forms they best grow from: seeds or seedlings. Here’s an overview of each type, plus some advice on getting them started:
\n\n\n\nTo grow some vegetables, you can just stick a seed in the ground, let it germinate, and cultivate it from there. Easier than cuttings, and cheaper than seedlings! These plants include:
\n\n\n\nThe basics of planting seeds, of course, are the much the same as for any type of planting:
\n\n\n\nCreative planting tip: Did you know you can sprout seeds in eggshells? Simply take several clean, empty shells, carefully poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each, then set into an egg carton. Fill each shell with some potting soil, sprinkle a few seeds of your choice, then lightly rake a little soil over them. Set in a sunny spot and keep moist with a mister until leaves sprout. Then, you can plant the entire thing into a pot, and the eggshell will fertilize the plant it helped sprout! This can also be done with hollowed-out citrus peels.
\n\n\n\nSome plants are notoriously hard to germinate from seeds and/or keep alive. Seedlings are more mature and stronger (as well as more pest-resistant) when they’re transplanted, so you’re less likely to lose plants at the beginning. Plants grown from seedlings also mature faster, getting you to harvest sooner.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/EvElFSghgX6CRJsBbzhdgW8IBwqB2VQdCWHX82pxMRbEMLUZ2xKkrbPyO2RRH-sP__hp1iw3HS_ZOS7aPx0QSCPsHKlOHY6dJsT5IZ8DMPUoLv0VOF574z4yYHiaZ6YAFFyAi6aU\")
Once they’re in the ground and doing their thing, your job is to keep watch over your plants and protect them from all the things that can cause them harm. Fortunately, there are several creative gardening hacks to help you tend your plants and help them grow. Here are just a few.
\n\n\n\nThese are the planting seasons for vegetables, some fruits, and herbs in different parts of the country.
\n\n\n\n| What and When to Plant in the U.S. | ||||
| Region | Spring (March-May) | Summer (June-Aug) | Fall (Sept-Nov) | Winter (Dec-Feb) |
Pacific Northwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | apples, artichokes, arugula, asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, blueberries, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, greens, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, onions, parsnips, peas, pears, pole beans, potatoes, pumpkins, raspberries, radishes, scallions, shallots, snap peas, snow peas, strawberries, spinach, sorrel | bush beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, eggplants, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, peppers, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, summer squash, tomatoes, turnips, winter squash, parsley, rhubarb | fava beans, garlic, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, chives | |
West Coast (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | beans, beets, blackberries, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, green beans, kale, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, tomatoes, turnips, basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary | beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, corn, cucumbers, onions, peppers, radishes, squash, tomatoes | beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, peas, spinach, squash | |
South Central and Southwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3b-11a) | asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, cantaloupes, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, figs, garlic, cherry tomatoes, melons, okra, onions, peanuts, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, scallions, snap peas, spinach, tomatoes, watermelons, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley | beans, beets, cantaloupes, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, gourds, kale, lettuce, melons, mustard greens, okra, peanuts, peas, tomatoes, tomatillos, turnips, beans, sweet peppers, hot peppers, watermelon, basil, cilantro, dill | arugula, beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, garlic, kale, leek, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsnips, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, cilantro, dill, parsley | beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, lettuce,snow peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley |
Midwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-7b) | apples, arugula, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, cantaloupe, cauliflower, carrots, chard, cherries, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, lima beans, parsnips, peaches, peas, pears, persimmons, potatoes, radishes, radicchio, scallions, spinach, squash (summer and winter), strawberries, turnips, watermelon, basil, chives, cilantro, fennel, parsley, sorrel, summer savory, witch hazel | arugula, beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, okra, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, pumpkin, scallions, squash (summer and winter), turnips, watermelon, basil, cilantro, parsley, sorrel | arugula, broccoli, cabbage, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips | |
| Southeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 5b-11a) | broccoli, blackberries, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, eggplant, figs, lettuce, okra, onions, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, sweet potatoes, basil, cilantro, dill, lavender, oregano, thyme, witch hazel | beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, kale, lima beans, pole beans, tomatoes, watermelon, winter squash | chard, kale, onions, pumpkins, rosemary, turnips | |
| Northeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-8a) | beets, broccoli, cantaloupe, carrots, corn, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, melons, sweet peppers, snap peas, squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, basil, chamomile, ginger, mint, parsley, witch hazel | beets, bok choy, broccoli, cantaloupe, cabbage, carrots, chard, corn, greens, cucumbers, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, pole beans, snap beans, snap peas, snow peas, spinach, squash, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, arnica, basil, borage, chamomile, dill, fennel, marshmallow, oregano, parsley, purslane, skullcap, thyme | arugula, beets, broccoli, garlic, greens (mesclun, rapini, mache, frisee, etc.), kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips,cilantro, chamomile, echinacea, holy basil, lemon balm, oregano, purslane, skullcap, sorrel, thyme | arugula, kale, lettuce, basil, cilantro, dill(start indoors in pots) |
Aerating – Loosening soil or compost to allow air to circulate
\n\n\n\nAnnuals – Varieties that complete their life cycle in one year or less, requiring sowing every year. Annual flower varieties often bloom profusely and over a long period of time.
\n\n\n\nBiennials – Varieties, both flowers and vegetables, that complete their life cycle in two years, usually just showing only leaf growth the first year, and flowers the next
\n\n\n\nCompanion planting – Planting different plants together that benefit one another. For example, sowing a plant that attracts pollinators next to a plant that requires pollination; corn, squash, and beans are common companions.
\n\n\n\nCutting – Developing a new plant by cutting a piece of leaf, stem, root, or bud from a parent plant, then inserting it into a growing medium (water or soil) to form roots
\n\n\n\nComposting – Using decomposed plant material to replenish soil nutrients while reducing landfill waste
\n\n\n\nFertilizing – Adding organic or synthetic material to soil or plant to improve the nutrient value and help plants grow stronger
\n\n\n\nGermination – The moment when a seed begins to grow
\n\n\n\nHydroponics – Growing plants in water instead of soil
\n\n\n\nPlanting/ sowing – Putting seeds in soil and allowing them to germinate and grow
\n\n\n\nPerennials – Varieties that grow and flower for two or more years. These can be evergreen or may die back to the ground but will grow again the following season.
\n\n\n\nPollination – The fertilization of a flower by wind, insect, birds, etc., resulting in a seed, sometimes surrounded by an edible fruit
\n\n\n\nSeedling – Tiny plant developing from a germinated seed, ready for planting
\n\n\n\nThinning – Reducing the number of seedlings so remaining plants are spaced properly to grow
\n\n\n\nTransplanting – Transferring a plant to a different growing space or medium
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones – Zones designated for planting as determined by the historical, average, lowest winter temperature in specified geographic areas of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nVariety – A species that has naturally formed a unique characteristic distinguishing it from similar plants (For example, kale and kohlrabi each adapted unique characteristics that differ from cabbage, the original species from which they came.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5086792452830189,"src":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/107df/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/293e9/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/f2cbb/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/19c60/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 1999w","srcWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/67b76/social-distancing-backyard.webp 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/8df11/social-distancing-backyard.webp 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/98a65/social-distancing-backyard.webp 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/acfdf/social-distancing-backyard.webp 1999w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"2aabb5c7-2f2c-5f83-b362-bdc7bbaf0dd5","slug":"the-25-top-pet-peeves-of-your-neighbors","path":"/blog/the-25-top-pet-peeves-of-your-neighbors/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"April 22nd, 2019","excerpt":"All of us have or have had that annoying neighbor who drives them mad. From rowdy fraternities to the daybreak lawn mowers, some neighbors aren’t very neighborly. And while many of these offenses don’t warrant a call to the police, they may have us considering building higher fences or even putting our house on the […]
\n","content":"\nAll of us have or have had that annoying neighbor who drives them mad. From rowdy fraternities to the daybreak lawn mowers, some neighbors aren’t very neighborly. And while many of these offenses don’t warrant a call to the police, they may have us considering building higher fences or even putting our house on the market.
And while we know that we aren’t perfect when it comes to being the best neighbor ever, there are times when a neighbor just goes too far in annoying us. Some of these may not be high on your own list of pet peeves but these are the pet peeves that we have found are most common when it comes to less than neighborly neighbors. Let’s take a look at the worst offenders.
It’s tough not to notice a neighbor who doesn’t keep their lawn mowed on a regular basis. Without proper lawn maintenance, their overgrown lawn starts to look like a jungle and the weeds overtake the area and threaten your own sculpted yard. Those lawns are also a breeding ground for snakes. Cora bought her house next to a golf course thinking she’d always have a great view. But the golf course wasn’t controlled by the homeowners association and the outlying grass was more than a foot tall. She’s had to call a critter control expert several times to get rid of the rattlesnakes that creep into her backyard.
Who cares if their bark is worse than their bite if it’s the noise that’s keeping you up at night! It’s enough to encourage you to put up the “for sale” sign. Consider asking neighbors to bring their dog inside during certain hours of the day. Other options include asking them to use a bark collar in order to help curb the incessant barking.
Outdoor cats don’t know boundaries, so they invariably become neighborhood cats. They aren’t too bad until you notice that your yard or kid’s sandbox has become their litter box. Wildlife control officers suggest spraying a cat repellent around your property. You can also do things to deter cats from your yard like not petting them or having anything outdoors that they could eat or drink.
Having a friend or two over is fine….but a few hundred? Not so great, especially when parties become loud and obnoxious. Any outdoor party that goes past midnight can cause issues for the next door neighbors and anyone else in the neighborhood who wasn’t invited. If it’s a one-time party you may have to just grin and bear it. If it’s a constant pattern you may want to alert your homeowner’s association before calling the police.
Neighbors who seem to collect random items in their yard create an eyesore. Usually, those items are in some state of disrepair and end up staying much longer than originally intended. Most cities have ordinances regulating the state of a front yard. A simple call to code enforcement officer might do the trick.
Most of us have had to work on our car in the driveway. But having a broken down car in the driveway can create problems. Cars that are up on blocks and are always being worked on are an eyesore and create a lot of unwanted noise in a neighborhood. Once again, a call to the city’s code enforcement officer may be in order,
Your neighbor may mean well but living next to the Griswolds (from the movie “Christmas Vacation”) can get old really fast. Add to it those neighbors who keep their decorations up well past the holiday and you’ve got a big pet peeve for many homeowners. You may offer to lend your neighbor a helping hand after the holidays to help remove some of the decor.
Nosy neighbors who seem to know all of your business, as well as everyone else’s, can become quite annoying. Your best bet is to avoid gossiping about your neighbors with anyone. Kindly confront neighbors who have spread rumors about you and remember that sometimes the best way to stop nosy neighbors is to not engage them and give them the cold shoulder.
Having a few items around your trash cans can be normal but those neighbors who don’t pay for trash service can create quite a nuisance. Large amounts of trash not only smell bad, but they also attract animals that can easily create a problem. Sounds like another city code enforcement issue.
Everyone enjoys different kinds of music but it can be hard to live next to neighbors who are always blaring their own music for everyone else to hear. This includes neighbors who always have their windows open with the music on which can create a difficult situation for others. Most municipalities have noise ordinances but they don’t usually go into effect until after 10 p.m.
Those neighbors who use their front lawn as more of a used car lot can quickly get on people’s nerves. Cars can be either in working condition or in multiple stages of disarray and become an eyesore. Check the zoning in your neighborhood to see if your neighbor is breaking the law.
Peeling paint and falling gutters can be a time and money issue but those neighbors who have really let their house go can become wearisome for the neighborhood and lower property values. The addition of mold and overgrown vegetation can easily engulf a house as well. Consider checking your neighborhood zoning code to see if a neighbor is in violation.
Neighbors who always seem to be grumpy or just plain mean can be a pet peeve. These neighbors seem to always have something bad to say about your home, family members, or even yourself…and they aren’t shy about sharing their opinions. Consider killing a mean-spirited neighbor with kindness by getting to know them better or bringing them a plate of cookies. You never know what problems a neighbor can be facing until you ask.
We all enjoy talking to our neighbors from time to time, but there are those who always seem to be outside when you are and a cordial conversation turns into an hour-long saga about their best friend’s sisters’ cat recent visit to the vet. Consider coming up with some predetermined excuses on how to get out of a long conversation by saying you need to use the bathroom or even stating that you have something that could burn in the oven.
Even if you don’t have a dog, you may find your front lawn is being used as a dog relief area from neighbors who walk their dogs on a daily basis. Picking up someone else’s dog mess is just not okay. Place funny signs in your yard that are humorous, but also make a point, to remind neighbors about allowing their dog to use your lawn.
Those neighbors who smoke outside have every right to do so but it can become frustrating for those nearby who see the onslaught of cigarette butts on their property. Consider asking neighbors to refrain from leaving their cigarette butts on your lawn. If needed, try picking up the butts when they are outside as well to make a point.
The overtired mom next door may always send her kids outside which can make your own outside time much less enjoyable. Too many kids can mean a lot of noise, crying, and arguing that can get old really fast. Investing in a great pair of noise-canceling headphones can help keep those screams and cries out of earshot.
Nothing is worse than wanting to sleep in on a Saturday morning only to be woken up by the neighbor who is mowing his lawn or blowing a leaf blower at 6 am. Kindly ask a neighbor to wait to mow the lawn until an appropriate hour. Consider sharing certain aspects of your life, like a late night work shift or a newborn baby, in order to help neighbors understand your issue.
Those neighbors who always seem to be in some sort of marital spat can create an uncomfortable situation for neighbors who are slyly trying to make it from their car to the front door without being seen. Try to talk to neighbors who are having issues and remember that everyone can have a bad day sometimes.
Neighbors who are loud in the bedroom, even without their windows open, can create some uncomfortable situations for others, especially during the daytime. Use subtle hints with your overly vocal neighbors who may not realize that they can be heard from the street.
Flooding your property with safety lights may seem like a bright idea, but many homeowners enjoy the beauty of the night sky without the need for police-style floodlights on all of the time. Suggest motion detector light options that will help conserve energy as well as your sanity.
An occasional cup of sugar is one thing. When you find yourself lending out your lawnmower, chainsaw, hairdryer, vacuum cleaner, and kitchen chairs it starts to get old…especially when you have to repeatedly ask for the items to be returned. Make a habit to stop allowing neighbors to borrow items when they aren’t returned in a timely manner.
While many residents enjoy checking the mail there is always that one neighbor who seems to let the mail pile up and spill out of their mailbox or crowd their front door. Consider taking the neighbors mail to their door with a small note about how crowded their mailbox was to drop a hint.
Living next to a home with boarded-up windows or doors creates an eyesore and invites a level of danger to a neighborhood. Ask neighbors if you can help them with their property or possibly bring up the situation to the local zoning board as well.
Those neighbors who need their lawns in mint condition can easily become a pet peeve. Those who are always mentioning that one bush branch that keeps on creeping over the fence line or the leaves from your tree landing in their yard are the worst. Do your best to comply with your neighbor’s concerns but don’t kill yourself over every single leaf.
Keep in mind, there’s no such thing as a perfect neighborhood. So before you consider retaliating, calling the police or complaining to the neighbor in person, ask yourself “would I be happier living anywhere else?” Even a deserted island has loud wildlife that’s sure to keep you awake!
\n\n\n\nHappen to have questions about lawn care? Visit our lawn care page for more information.
\n","title":"The 25 Top Pet Peeves of Your Neighbors","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5005861664712778,"src":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1789c/human-3429797_1280.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/107df/human-3429797_1280.jpg 320w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/293e9/human-3429797_1280.jpg 500w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/f2cbb/human-3429797_1280.jpg 800w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1789c/human-3429797_1280.jpg 960w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/356ef/human-3429797_1280.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1dd6e/human-3429797_1280.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/67b76/human-3429797_1280.webp 320w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/8df11/human-3429797_1280.webp 500w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/98a65/human-3429797_1280.webp 800w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1dd6e/human-3429797_1280.webp 960w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/93f70/human-3429797_1280.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 25 Top Pet Peeves of Your Neighbors | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"75e3c7b8-add3-5089-a595-32f9d21fd618","slug":"how-to-install-a-lawn-sprinkler-system","path":"/blog/how-to-install-a-lawn-sprinkler-system/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 10th, 2022","excerpt":"Learning how to install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system is nearly as easy as turning on the water. Home irrigation system kits now come with all the necessary components so you can install a multi-zone system in just two or three days. Expect to spend around $500 for each zone, depending on the features you […]
\n","content":"\nLearning how to install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system is nearly as easy as turning on the water. Home irrigation system kits now come with all the necessary components so you can install a multi-zone system in just two or three days.
\n\n\n\nExpect to spend around $500 for each zone, depending on the features you choose. Most yards will require 2 or 3 zones for complete coverage. A residential control system will cost between $175 and $200. So you can easily install a 2-zone system for about $1,500.
\n\n\n\nHere we’ll break down the 9-step process to help you install a lawn sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Prep](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_296-12530440930zpi.jpg\")
![\"Tech.](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_tech-sgt-mike-deangelo-a-facility-manager-from-the-129th-transportation-flight-63af96-1024.jpg\")
Most systems connect to an exterior water supply, much like connecting a garden hose to the valve at the side of the house. You may also be able to use a well or other water source. This can drastically cut down on the cost of running your irrigation system.
\n\n\n\nA programmable timer allows you to water your lawn regularly, applying the right amount of water at the right times. A watering schedule also keeps your lawn eco-friendly by conserving water, which helps save money.
\n\n\n\nYou can find the gallons per minute (GPM) average from your city, but for a more accurate measurement, you’ll want to do it yourself. Understanding the water pressure flowing through your system tells you how far each sprinkler head will reach and the amount of time you’ll need to run each zone.
\n\n\n\nAttach a pressure gauge to the outside spigot to measure the flow rate in pounds per square inch (PSI). For an accurate reading, all of the other faucets on your property should be turned off.
\n\n\n\nMost homes have a PSI between 40 and 80 PSI. Sprinkler system kits typically require between 30 and 50 PSI. Read the directions carefully to find the proper amount of water pressure for your system.
\n\n\n\nMany different in-ground lawn sprinkler systems are available, including smart systems that allow you to control everything from your phone via Wi-Fi. Research your options and choose the best fit for your yard, water pressure, climate, and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large areas to water, you may need to connect multiple zones. This isn’t any more complicated than just one zone. Consider an automatic sprinkler system that rotates through each zone regularly.
\n\n\n\nMultiple zones will help you care for areas that are shaded, get a lot of sun, are prone to puddling, or have recently been fertilized.
\n\n\n\nIn areas where it freezes in winter, you need to drain the system each autumn. This prevents freeze damage to the pipes, sprinklers, and valves. Winterizing can be a DIY job, but it might be best to hire a professional if this is your first in-ground sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\n1. What kind of piping should I use?
\n\n\n\nMost people use PVC pipes, but polyethylene is another option. Polyethylene pipes are flexible and well suited to colder climates with frequent freezes.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I know what size piping to use?
\n\n\n\nThe system’s piping must match the supply line. You can wrap a piece of string around the supply line to measure its size.
\n\n\n\n3. Do I need backflow prevention?
\n\n\n\nSome municipalities require backflow preventers, but it’s a good idea in all areas. Backflow prevention protects the main water supply from chemicals that may enter the system from your yard.
\n\n\n\n4. What do I do if a sprinkler head isn’t working?
\n\n\n\nFirst, check to see if the sprinkler head is clogged. If it’s free of debris, you might need to replace it. The good news is that it is pretty simple to replace a malfunctioning head.
\n\n\n\n5. Will a pop-up system work for my flower beds?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should consider adding a drip irrigation system around flower beds. This will provide a more consistent and gentle watering system than an in-ground sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\n
If installing a lawn sprinkler system is a bit over your head, we can help you find a landscaping professional.
Main photo credit: Brenda Stuart | Wikilawn
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\n","content":"\nUnlike delicious mushrooms in your marinara sauce, the fungi growing on your lawn could make your kids and pets sick. They could also trigger an allergic reaction. So how do you get rid of mushrooms in your yard?
\n\n\n\nYou can pull them up, use natural methods, or resort to chemicals. This guide explores ways to eliminate mushrooms and keep them from coming back.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nYou can avoid using harmful chemicals on your lawn with these natural methods.
\n\n\n\nYou can hand pick all the mushrooms and toss them in the trash. It’s important to wear gloves to avoid an allergic reaction, and it’s crucial that you dispose of them immediately. Put them in a plastic bag, as even carrying them across the yard to your garbage can spread the mushroom spores onto other parts of the lawn.
\n\n\n\nVinegar works after you’ve removed the mushrooms by hand. We’re not talking about the vinegar in your pantry, but rather a concentrated horticultural vinegar (a good alternative to glyphosate) that you will have to dilute.
\n\n\n\nMix one part white vinegar with four parts water in a spray bottle and coat the mushrooms. Wear gloves when you spray this solution onto the area, because vinegar can burn your skin.
\n\n\n\nBaking soda won’t burn your hands, but you must dilute it so it won’t burn your grass. Mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour lightly over the mushrooms and in the area where the lawn fungi may be living.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chemical](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_screenshot_12.jpg\")
When natural methods don’t do the trick, you may have to use stronger chemical treatments to keep the mushrooms out of your yard.
\n\n\n\nFungicides stamp out mushrooms at the source. They don’t kill mushrooms but rather eliminate the fungus. Most fungicides such as Lustre or Spectrum work by destroying fungal cell membranes to stop them from producing.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll still have to hand pick the mushrooms before you apply the fungicide to the area, but they will keep the mushrooms from coming back. Therefore, it’s a good idea to remove the mushrooms first. You may have to use the fungicide several times to get the desired results.
\n\n\n\nThe same nitrogen fertilizer you use on your lawn is great for preventing mushrooms. It doesn’t kill the fungus, but it speeds up organic decomposition. Therefore, mushrooms won’t have an opportunity to grow on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSpray a solution of dish soap and water to disrupt the lifecycle of the fungus that’s growing underneath the mushrooms you removed.
\n\n\n\nRemoving the mushrooms from your yard is only half the battle. The fungus that causes the mushrooms is still present in the soil. Here are seven ways to minimize the fungus and keep new mushrooms from growing.
\n\n\n\n![\"Mushroom's](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_frank-eiffert-_zsw5aeb4ee-unsplash.jpg\")
Like plants, mushrooms are the “flowers” or fruiting bodies that result from the hyphae or fungus in your lawn’s soil. If you don’t remove the mushrooms immediately, they will reproduce by spreading spores around your yard via air or pests.
\n\n\n\nSome common reasons you are starting to see more mushrooms growing in your yard?
\n\n\n\nDon’t automatically assume mushrooms in your yard are a threat. There are very few poisonous mushrooms that can grow on your property, but even the non-toxic mushrooms are unsightly and a magnet for dogs who like to dig.
\n\n\n\nThey can be. The destroying angel and the autumn skullcap are two fatal types of mushrooms that could grow on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe destroying angel mushroom is white with a white stalk and white gills that could turn green or grayish as the mushroom matures. The autumn skullcap has a yellow-brown tint on its cap and brownish gills.
\n\n\n\nNo, unless you’ve purchased mushroom plants from the store and are growing them in your vegetable garden. Unless you’re an expert at identifying wild mushrooms, it’s best to toss the mushrooms you find in your yard.
\n\n\n\nYes. Mushrooms are a sure sign your soil is healthy and has the nutrients for other plants, trees, and flowers. Some plants will actually benefit from the fungus in the soil.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or find it gross to remove the mushrooms from your yard? We can find a lawn care pro near you to remove them and keep the fungus at bay. They can also mow, weed, edge, and dethatch to keep the mushrooms from coming back.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Pixabay | Michal Jarmoluk
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Mushrooms in Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1789c/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/107df/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 320w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/293e9/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 500w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/f2cbb/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 800w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1789c/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 960w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/c26c2/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1dd6e/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/67b76/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 320w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/8df11/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 500w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/98a65/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 800w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1dd6e/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 960w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/3cc96/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Mushrooms in Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Unsightly and sometimes dangerous, we’ll tell you how to get rid of mushrooms in your yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"8b1ccec7-8674-5ebe-a821-930ad25bdf16","slug":"hydroseeding","path":"/blog/hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Starting a new lawn from scratch may seem daunting. Seeding takes effort and takes a while to show results; laying sod, on the other hand, is instant but expensive. Well, let us introduce you to a third option: hydroseeding, also called hydraulic mulch seeding. In this article: Hydroseeding Explained Hydroseeding is pretty straightforward: It’s just […]
\n","content":"\nStarting a new lawn from scratch may seem daunting. Seeding takes effort and takes a while to show results; laying sod, on the other hand, is instant but expensive. Well, let us introduce you to a third option: hydroseeding, also called hydraulic mulch seeding.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is pretty straightforward: It’s just the process of seeding an area using a slurry. This slurry is composed primarily of water, seeds, mulch, and fertilizer, but some hydroseed mixtures also include lawn-friendly dye and a tackifier. Here’s what each slurry component brings to the table.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWater is the main component and what makes the hydroseed mixture fluid enough to be a sprayable slurry (it’s also where the “hydro” comes from). When mixed with mulch, the slurry becomes denser, heavier, and sticky, helping the slurry stick to the soil. The abundant water also makes the seeds germinate and grow faster compared to those that were hand-seeded.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOne of the advantages of hydroseeding is that you can pick and choose what types of grass seeds you want to include in your hydroseed slurry. With sod, you can only typically use one type of turf.
\n\n\n\nWhile many hydroseeding slurries use grass seeds, you can also use the seeds of different types of plants. Some hydroseed projects use wildflower seeds, for example.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: christina rutz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen mixed with water, mulch helps seeds stick to the soil. It also has other functions, mainly protecting seeds from the elements like wind, sunlight, and temperature fluctuations. Mulch also nourishes the growing grass seedlings as it starts decomposing.
\n\n\n\nHydroseed slurries can use a variety of mulches with different levels of effectiveness. Here are some of them:
\n\n\n\nThe last crucial component of a hydroseed slurry is the fertilizer. It contains nutrients that will feed your new grass as it grows to become a healthy lawn. The fertilizer typically doesn’t last throughout the growing period, so it’s a good idea to fertilize your new lawn again later on.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor the best results, the hydroseed slurry should be sprayed evenly across bare soil. A lawn-friendly dye helps show where the slurry has already been sprayed to ensure even coverage. This component is optional, though.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs the area you’re hydroseeding prone to soil erosion and runoff? Your hydroseed mixture might need a tackifier, which is a binding agent that helps the slurry stick to the soil. Typically, flat lawns don’t need a tackifier, as there’s little erosion risk.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSo what makes hydroseeding a great seeding method? Here are some benefits of hydroseeding and hydroseeded lawns:
\n\n\n\nHowever, hydroseeding is not perfect. Here are some disadvantages of hydroseeding:
\n\n\n\nThe most enticing aspect of sod is how it gives you a beautiful lawn very fast; after a short waiting period, you’ll be able to walk on your new lawn. Laying sod has a few disadvantages, though. It can look artificial, and it’s typically less hardy than a hydroseeded or traditionally-seeded lawn. It’s also more expensive to boot.
\n\n\n\nIf you can get past the wait time, hydroseeding seems like the better option, and not just because of the lower price tag. Although it takes a while to grow, seeded lawns (including hydroseeded lawns) are hardier and more disease-resistant than sod because they have stronger root systems. Hydroseed also offers more customization and looks more natural than sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, hydroseeded lawns are more delicate while they’re growing. They need a lot of water and can’t be walked on for about 5 weeks. Since you’re growing grass from seed, you also can’t hydroseed outside of your turf’s growing season, while you can install sod at any time of year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTraditional seeding is the cheapest seeding method and is as customizable as hydroseeding; however, it has a whole slew of disadvantages that may deter you from hand-seeding your lawn. Hand-seeding takes longer, and traditionally seeded lawns take longer to germinate. It may even grow patchy, requiring more work for your lawn to look uniform.
\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is more expensive and uses more water, but it’s more convenient. Hydroseeded lawns also sprout faster and tend to grow more uniformly than traditionally seeded lawns.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeding-of-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe best time to hydroseed is the same as if you were hand-seeding; always hydroseed during the turf’s growing season. Warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and Bahiagrass should be hydroseeded in late spring or early summer, while cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues should be hydroseeded in late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nLet’s compare hydroseeding in the spring, fall, and summer:
\n\n\n\nNow that you know the best time to hydroseed, it’s time to learn how the hydroseed process works. If you ever want to hydroseed your lawn DIY, here is a short step-by-step guide:
\n\n\n\nFor a more in-depth look at hydroseeding your own lawn, you can read our complete guide to DIY hydroseeding.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining your new hydroseed lawn is important in ensuring success. Here’s how to maintain your hydroseeded lawn:
\n\n\n\nThe cost of professional hydroseeding depends on many factors, such as the condition of your lawn and how big it is. However, homeowners can typically expect hydroseeding to cost an average of 8 to 20 cents per square foot. A 3,000 sq. ft. lawn would cost anywhere from $240 to $600 to be hydroseeded.
\n\n\n\nProfessionals will typically charge a discounted rate if you’re hydroseeding by the acre. Rates can also vary drastically depending on where you live in the US.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen watering your hydroseeded lawn, make sure not to run your sprinklers for more than 15 minutes. Otherwise, you might overwater your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWalking on your new hydroseeded lawn before it’s established can form bare spots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWait for at least 3 to 4 months before using weed control products on your hydroseed lawn. Make sure to get rid of weeds before starting your hydroseed project. In case you find any weeds, you can try hand-pulling them.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s generally not recommended to do so, but you can. It’s just not a good idea because the hydroseed slurry can kill your existing grass. Try overseeding instead if you want to fill out bare patches in your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is a good option to consider if you want to grow a new lawn relatively quickly without breaking the bank. It’s more cost-effective than laying sod, more efficient than traditional seeding, and isn’t too difficult to DIY. But why risk hydroseeding your lawn yourself when you can hire a professional lawn care service instead?
Wikilawn can help you find a lawn care pro near you to help you with hydroseeding and your other lawn care needs, including regular maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
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\n","content":"\nRather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is simply spreading fresh grass seed directly into the existing lawn without tearing up the turf or the soil. It’s an excellent way to make your lawn thicker and greener. By mixing types of grass seed, you can even prolong the life of your lawn and enjoy it year-round.
\n\n\n\nLet’s face it: We all end up making twice as many trips to the home store as anticipated, looking for that one last item we forgot. Start here, gather your materials, and finish your shopping in one day.
\n\n\n\nThe first step is deciding when to spread the seeds. This is typically done in late summer or early fall, depending on if you have cool-season or warm-season grass in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLike any plant, grass seeds need to find their way to the soil to germinate. But thatch can get in the way. Thatch is the organic matter like grass and leaves that accumulates atop the soil. If you can’t see soil between your existing grass, remove the thatch with a dethatcher.
\n\n\n\nAfter dethatching, you’ll need to aerate. Spike aeration pokes holes in the solid while core aeration pokes holes and removes plugs of soil, giving your grass seed the space it needs to germinate.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: It’s unlikely you have a dethatcher or aerator hanging out in your shed. The local home supply store should have a selection to choose from. Look for rental opportunities while you pick up the fertilizer and grass seed.
\n\n\n\nIn order to help the seeds reach the soil, cut the grass to about one inch. This is likely shorter than you normally mow, so you’ll need to drop the blade.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to bag the trimmings and remove them. Again, this is all about increasing the likelihood of the new seeds making soil contact and germinating successfully. If you don’t have a way to bag the clippings, the next step will help.
\n\n\n\nRake up all of the leaves, twigs, clippings, and other debris on your lawn. It’s best if you add a little muscle to the raking process, allowing the rake tines to loosen up the soil as well.
\n\n\n\nUse a fertilizer spreader to add a layer of enriched topsoil on top of your grass. This top layer of soil is filled with organic matter and microorganisms necessary for life to develop. Topsoil makes sure the seeds have access to water, nutrients, and space to germinate.
\n\n\n\nThis layer should be about ¼-inch thick. Some grass seed mixtures include topsoil, so you won’t need to add additional topsoil and can jump to the next step.
\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time for seeding! Like most aspects of lawn care, it’s essential to know just what type of grass you’re working with. Either use the same seed as your existing lawn or a variety that compliments it. For example, overseed a Zoysiagrass lawn with Zoysia seed, or a cool-season ryegrass to add color in the winter.
\n\n\n\nRead the bag’s instructions for how much seed to apply per square foot, and fill your drop spreader or broadcast spreader accordingly. Walk the spreader across your lawn in the same direction you mow, depositing the seed in rows.
\n\n\n\nTo jumpstart growth and ensure the new seeds have what they need, use a fertilizer spreader to add a starter fertilizer appropriate for your lawn. Starter mixes are specially designed for new growth and should be applied wherever you spread the seeds.
\n\n\n\nIf your grass seed mixture already contains fertilizer, you can skip this step.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Stay away from “weed and feed” mixtures as these herbicides can damage to new growth.
\n\n\n\nNew plants always require water, and your new grass seed is no different. As soon as you finish spreading seed and fertilizer, give your lawn a good, healthy drink.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then water your lawn lightly two to three times each day, ensuring the soil stays moist. This should continue until the new grass is as tall to established grass. Always water in the morning or after sundown so as to prevent evaporation.
\n\n\n\nYou should also look for signs of overwatering, such as puddles or squishy soil. If you notice this, stop watering right away and wait until conditions return to normal.
\n\n\n\nAlong with consistent watering, you should also stay off your grass until it has had a chance to develop. Limit foot and paw traffic until the grass has at least 1- to 2-inches of growth, and don’t pull out the mower until the new grass is similar in height to the established grass. Giving your new lawn a chance to take hold is the final step in overseeding.
\n\n\n\nWhen you overseed your lawn, you give it the ability to resist disease, drought conditions, and heavy foot traffic. A thicker lawn is also more resistant to lawn damaging insects. It also requires less fertilizer and maintenance.
\n\n\n\n1. Why mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nA shorter lawn gives the seeds a better chance of reaching the soil. It’s also important to loosen the top layer of soil and remove any dead grass or thatch, so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I prevent the birds from eating the grass seed?
\n\n\n\nAdd a layer of topsoil over the seeded areas. This prevents the birds and other wildlife from getting to the seed. If you notice birds or rabbits near the area, get a roll of burlap and place strips of it over the seeded area. Anchor the strips with tent stakes.
\n\n\n\n3. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should start to see the grass spout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. How often should I overseed my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAnnually. Most lawn care professionals recommend overseeding each year to keep your lawn coming back thicker and greener every spring. If you only see bald spots and thinning every once in a while, you can probably overseed once every two or three years.
\n\n\n\n5. Do I need to apply fertilizer when overseeding my lawn?
\n\n\n\nOnly if you didn’t fertilize in spring. Adding more fertilizer isn’t necessary, and may actually hinder your new grass seed from growing. Fertilizing just before or after reseeding will force the germinating seeds to compete with the existing grass and weeds. It’s best to wait until the following spring to fertilize.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project, but if you’d rather not spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating, we can help you find a lawn care professional near you.
Main Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
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