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Fort Worth has something to make everyone smile – plentiful sunshine, a square-jawed Western heritage, taco and barbecue joints everywhere and museums and universities galore. And lawns. Lots of lawns that need mowing watering and trimming. Here’s a guide to how to keep your Fort Worth lawn happy so you can spend more time on […]
\n","content":"\nFort Worth has something to make everyone smile – plentiful sunshine, a square-jawed Western heritage, taco and barbecue joints everywhere and museums and universities galore.
\n\n\n\nAnd lawns. Lots of lawns that need mowing watering and trimming. Here’s a guide to how to keep your Fort Worth lawn happy so you can spend more time on it, and more time enjoying the 13th-largest city in the United States.
\n\n\n\nFort Worth likes you to keep up the appearance of your lawn. In fact, it insists, in the form of a code compliance office that will issue you a notice if your grass is taller than 12 inches. Properties overgrown with high grass and weeds are not just unsightly, the city says, but “they pose a fire hazard, block visibility for driers, harbor rodents and snakes and contribute to pests like mosquitoes and chiggers.”
\n\n\n\nIgnore the notice for more than 10 days and the city will send out a crew to cut it for you. The cost: $250, payable within 30 days. Failure to pay can result in a lien being placed against the property.
\n\n\n\nIf your neighbor’s grass gets too high, the city makes it easy to file a complaint online.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass are the most common grasses for lawns in Fort Worth. Zoysia varieties are also making their mark.
\n\n\n\nIn the mood for something more exotic? Texas-bred native grasses based on buffalograss have great drought tolerance, though the appearance is scruffily untraditional. The Botanical Research Institute of Texas in Fort Worth is one of many buildings experimenting with a buffalograss blend.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses such as the ones that thrive in Fort Worth have their heaviest growth in the summer, so you’ll want to keep to a regular mowing schedule then. If you’re doing the job yourself in the 90+ degree heat, keep your mower blades sharp to prevent shredding that could injure your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMowing heights for different grass varieties are as follows:
\n\n\n\nIn the past, the typical practice was to remove lawn clippings and have them hauled to the landfill. That’s no longer the case, as lawn clippings are now seen as an important source of fertilizer for the lawn. On a typical lawn, leaving the clippings in place to decompose and return nitrogen to the soil for a full season added enough nutrients for you to skip one round of fertilization.
\n\n\n\nFort Worth’s climate is on the hot side, with average highs in the mid-90s in July and August. Expect about 40 inches of rain, with May, June and October the wettest months. That leaves a lot of hot, dry days in the mid to late summer in between, when your lawn will want a deep drink of water. But you’ll need to follow the city’s watering restrictions, imposed year-round to conserve the resource. Lawn irrigation by sprinkler or irrigation system is banned from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Penalties are stiff for violation: up to $2,000 for each offense.
\n\n\n\nBe polite and don’t mow too early or too late. The city has a noise ordinance. While it does not mention lawn mowers or leaf blowers specifically, it does bar “unreasonable noise,” especially at night.
\n\n\n\n
Have more questions about lawn mowing and maintenance in Fort Worth? We got you covered! Go to our Fort Worth, TX lawn care page for more information.
Not everyone is lucky enough to have a Hank Hill-level love affair with lawn mowing. But those with the habits of the “King Of The Hill” will probably enjoy a longer, healthier life than their sedentary pals. While circling the yard in a riding mower burns fewer calories than pushing a reel mower, either method […]
\n","content":"\nNot everyone is lucky enough to have a Hank Hill-level love affair with lawn mowing. But those with the habits of the “King Of The Hill” will probably enjoy a longer, healthier life than their sedentary pals. While circling the yard in a riding mower burns fewer calories than pushing a reel mower, either method burns calories and gets the job done. Let’s talk about the number of calories mowing the lawn can burn, so you can start using yard work as an excuse to skip the gym.
\n\n\n\nThanks to the level of physical activity it requires, any yard work will provide you with an easy to moderate workout. But calculating the calories burned can be a little tricky. The first factor affecting how many calories you burn on lawn care is your body weight. The heavier you are, the more calories you’ll burn.
\n\n\n\nFor example, according to a Harvard University study, a 135-pound person will burn around 165 calories in 30 minutes of mowing with a manual push (reel) mower. A 185-pound person will burn 244 calories in the same amount of time.
\n\n\n\nYes, even sitting on a riding lawn mower will stoke a little extra calorie burn, but you’ll only get about one-third the workout of a manual mower. An old-fashioned reel mower is eco-friendly and will give you a vigorous workout. But the amount of time it adds to the job makes it unreasonable for folks with large yards. The happy medium is a gas-powered push mower or a self-propelled mower, both of which require a moderate effort to operate.
\n\n\n\nAgain, according to the Harvard study, a powered push mower will burn 135 calories off a 135-pound person in 30 minutes. The 185-pounder will burn off 200 calories.
\n\n\n\nEven with a push mower, there are people who mow as if their lives depend on it. There are also those who mow like they have all day. The more briskly you move, the more likely you are to get a great workout. Mowing fancy stripes might be just the right challenge if you want to level-up your efforts. Sometimes you don’t have a choice about how much effort you put in. If your yard’s on a slope, you’re going to be working harder.
\n\n\n\nYou’re going to need to be a good calorie counter to make sure you’re getting the metabolic equivalent of a session at the gym.
\n\n\n\nCalorieLab and WebMd are good sources of online exercise calculators that include weeding, raking, and other common types of lawn work — including mowing. Remember to type in your weight for an accurate calculation.
\n\n\n\nFor many of us, those precious hours spent outdoors are some of the most beneficial for mental health and wellbeing. The activity of mowing, even with a hand mower, can have a soothing, meditative effect. Completing the task can lower your blood pressure, and the dose of vitamin D you get should be enough to motivate you to get outside and give your turf a trim.
\n\n\n\nAs adults, we should aim for 150 minutes of moderate physical activity per week, and lawn care can definitely contribute to that goal. However, as we age, we need to be mindful of our bodies. Margaret Martin, a physical therapist with 35 years of clinical experience, cautions, “Those of you with low bone density, osteopenia or osteoporosis, need to pay special attention to how you cut your grass.” She also recommends against getting too active with lawn care immediately after hip or knee surgery. She advises establishing a “power position” behind a push mower. The handle should be sitting somewhere above your hips and below your chest. “Mid-waist is an ideal power position,” and says. “Get your elbows in and push the lawn mower from the legs.”
\n\n\n\nMowing also tightens your core muscles and strengthens your back. Now pat yourself on the back for a good workout and nice-looking lawn!
I firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards. If you’re firmly […]
\n","content":"\nI firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re firmly in the Bahiagrass-grass-is-trash camp, let’s dive into different ways to get rid of Bahiagrass in your landscape!
\n\n\n\nWhether it’s in your lawn or taking up residence in your vegetable garden or flower beds, we’ve got options for you. I will also offer non-chemical approaches to get rid of Bahiagrass if you’re looking for sustainable solutions.
\n\n\nWhen you see Bahiagrass in your lawn or flower beds, the first instinct is to grab ahold of it and yank it out by hand. Manually pulling it out may work, but remember that it reproduces via rhizomes, so you have to remove the entire underground part of the plant, too. If you only hand-pull the top off, the rhizomes continue reproducing, sending out new grass shoots.
\n\n\n\nSo, with this in mind, you should attack Bahiagrass with a multi-pronged approach, employing cultural practices and chemical or natural herbicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nI understand if you’ve ever stood in the lawn chemical aisle at your local hardware or big box store feeling overwhelmed and dizzy by all the choices. There are shelves of different products claiming to control various weeds. And it is essential to pick the right one for the task.
\n\n\n\nBefore we get into specific products, let’s talk about two types of weed killers and what sets them apart from one another: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nI try to use pre-emergent herbicides whenever possible, as it’s easier to stop weeds from germinating (and yes, I’m going to classify Bahia as a weed in this situation) than it is to get rid of them once they sprout. You have limited pre-emergent options if you have Bahia growing on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlease note that it’s imperative to read the product label thoroughly. Only use herbicide you know is safe for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nCompared to pre-emergent products, you have many more options for post-emergent herbicides. However, care must still be taken to ensure you don’t harm your lawn. And be forewarned that you may need to apply these products more than once to control Bahia because of its deep rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nThe following selective herbicides are labeled for use on specific turf types, so they won’t harm the intended grass but should tackle the Bahia infestation. Plus, they’ll likely also get rid of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a little easier to control in flower beds or garden plots. While there is controversy surrounding glyphosate (commonly sold as RoundUp), it is an effective weed killer and works well when you are looking for something for spot treatment. Glyphosate is non-selective, killing anything it touches; be careful not to spray it when it’s windy or when the Bahia is close to other desired plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBeyond chemical treatment methods, you can implement some essential lawn care practices for the control of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nEncouraging a healthy, lush lawn is the best way to prevent unwanted grasses and weeds. A thick, dense carpet of grass will naturally choke out unwanted Bahia trying to take hold.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn on a regular schedule based on the type of grass you’re growing. For most grasses, this will be at least twice per year. Bahiagrass has low nutrient needs, so regular lawn fertilization will hinder its growth and keep it from returning.
\n\n\n\nBahia spreads primarily through underground rhizomes but also puts out distinctive, Y-shaped seed heads. These seed heads disperse and further spread the unwanted grass when left alone. Mowing your lawn consistently—at the appropriate lawn mower height for your turf type—helps prevent any Bahia in your grass from going to seed and spreading.
\n\n\n\nWhen dealing with Bahia that has gone to seed, you should bag and dispose of your grass clippings versus letting them fall back on the grass.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn so it isn’t too dry is a fantastic way to discourage Bahia from growing. Bahia is revered for its drought tolerance and will quickly move into established turf if the soil is too dry and the existing grass is stressed.
\n\n\n\nWater your grass deeply, yet infrequently, several times a week. Aim to give it about one inch of water (total) over the course of a week, but this amount varies slightly based on the grass you’re growing and the soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is opportunistic and will take over empty space, including the bare spots in your St. Augustine or Bermudagrass lawn. To help prevent it from sneaking its way in, anytime you see bare spots in your grass, sow grass seed quickly and cover the soil with a layer of mulch. Growing new grass as soon as possible will help keep Bahia at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFor those who want to veer away from traditional chemical control methods, you have a couple of options that may work. A quick caveat though: these methods typically have a lower success rate and take much longer to see results.
\n\n\n\nSome people swear by using vinegar (scientifically known as acetic acid) as a weed killer. Mix one cup of white distilled vinegar, one cup of water, and a few drops of dish soap from under your kitchen sink. Shake the ingredients together and spray or pour it directly on the Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nThe vinegar pulls water out of the plant, drying out the leaves and ultimately (hopefully) killing whatever you pour it on. This is why it’s essential only to spray it on weeds, making sure it doesn’t get on anything you want to keep.
\n\n\n\nI’ve tried this method myself and have gotten mixed results. I’ve found it works best if you apply it on hot, sunny days and then repeat it every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large Bahiagrass patches in your lawn or garden you want to get rid of, an effective way to tackle them naturally is to deprive the entire section of sunlight. Cover the Bahia with black plastic sheeting or large garbage bags, securing the corners so the covering stays in place. After a couple of weeks, everything under the plastic should be smothered out and dead.
\n\n\n\nPersonally, I think this method is best for your garden and flower beds. If you use it on your lawn, you’ll also kill any other grass in the area.
\n\n\n\nLastly, if you’re looking for an alternative pre-emergent method, you can apply corn gluten meal to your lawn. Use about 20 pounds of it per 1,000 square feet of grass for the best results.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal has been used as an organic, natural pre-emergent herbicide for many years. Researchers at Iowa State University unintentionally discovered its pre-emergent properties in the early 1990s. When applied to the soil, it releases dipeptides, organic compounds that dry out seeds, so they have trouble sprouting.
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a chemical control option, you must carefully choose a product that considers Bahia a “weed” and kills it without damaging your turf. Some commonly used post-emergent herbicides include metsulfuron-methyl, sethoxydim, and imazaquin. Always read the product label and double-check that the herbicide is safe for the type of grass you’re growing.
The biggest problem with leaving Bahiagrass mixed in your turfgrass is its potential to spread and take over. If left unchecked, it could push out your desired turf, whether St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, etc. Plus, Bahia seed heads are unsightly and pop up quickly when left unmowed.
Centipedegrass is the best choice if you’re looking for a warm-season turf that naturally keeps Bahiagrass out. It forms a dense, thick carpet of lawn that will usually keep Bahiagrass from creeping in or choke out any existing plants.
Hopefully, these ideas will help get rid of any unwanted Bahiagrass in your lawn. Once you’ve removed it, we’ve got plenty of resources online to help you with grass and lawn care to keep it from returning. And if you ever need help with lawn weed control, lawn care experts are only a click away!
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nWhen it comes to grasses that will flourish in Raleigh, you have a lot to choose from. North Carolina is in what’s called the “transition zone,” an area sandwiched between the cold north and warm south. We need grasses that can handle both conditions. There are 8 best grass types for Raleigh that thrive in warm and cold.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about each grass type to help you decide which one is perfect for your property.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses perform their best in the southern half of the U.S. and actively grow when the temperature is around 75 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. These are drought-tolerant grasses that are mowed at a lower height in the summer.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow best during hot North Carolina summers but will become dormant during the cold winter. For the best results, plant seeds in late spring and early summer.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are more suited to northern climates with cold winters. These grasses are able to remain green through most of the year, even in cooler temperatures. They thrive when temperatures are between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses should be seeded in late summer or early fall. Unlike warm-season grasses, they should be mowed at a taller height.
\n\n\n\nThe following warm-season and cool-season grass types are perfectly suited for the climatic and soil conditions of Raleigh:
\n\n\n\n![\"Bermudagrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Bermudagrass is dense with a dark green color, and grows very quickly, which makes it great for any bare spots in your lawn. It’s one of the toughest grasses and will even out-compete weeds – however, it also will invade and take over your flower beds if you don’t keep an eye on it.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass can be seeded, but can also be planted with sods and plugs. It thrives in full sun and goes dormant in the winter once the temperature goes below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of this, it will do best in lawns that get very little shade. If you have a significant number of trees that generate shade, then Bermudagrass will not work for you.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is available in several different improved and hybrid varieties that are used for golf courses, lawns, parks, roadsides, and sports fields.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and is able to outcompete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns. Tolerant of most soil types.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Centipedegrass.jpg\")
Centipedegrass is a popular choice in coastal areas since it adapts to infertile, acidic soils as well as salt and sand. It can only handle heavy clay soils if there is lots of drainage. This species of grass needs to be seeded regularly since it takes two or three years to fully mature and fill out your lawn. Once grown, it becomes granny-smith apple green with a dense, coarse texture.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass was initially used for low-maintenance cemeteries and eventually for lawns during and after the Great Depression. It is sometimes called “lazy man’s grass” or “poor man’s grass.” It has good shade and drought tolerance and can be spread by either seed or sod. Other varieties of centipedegrass have better cold tolerance and better performance in alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; doesn’t tolerate heavy traffic; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/St.-Augustinegrass-1.jpg\")
The Raleigh blend of St. Augustinegrass was developed and specifically adapted for the area by North Carolina State University in 1980 and has a higher cold tolerance than other blends. The most shade tolerant of warm-season grasses, Raleigh St. Augustine is a great choice for homes in heavily wooded areas.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is a lush, fast-growing grass with a medium blue-green color. It works best in moist, warm climates with plenty of drainage and rich soil and is well-suited for North Carolina’s warm weather.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Zoysiagrass is a dense, lush grass that is light- to medium green. It is weather-resistant and low maintenance but will take a long time to establish. It does best in heat and full sun, and the speed of its growth depends on how much sun it receives. Zoysiagrass turns brown at the first fall and goes dormant throughout the winter.
\n\n\n\nIt does not require frequent mowing and rarely needs irrigation, but it will become thatchy if not properly cared for. There are several species and cultivars of Zoysiagrass used in different aspects of landscaping, with some being fine-textured and others being coarse-textured.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"Fine](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Fine-Fescue.jpg\")
Fine fescues are known for their fine leaves. They tend to bunch and not spread out, so are often combined with Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. Fine fescue seeds establish quickly and are a deep green color with a fine texture that almost resembles pine needles.
\n\n\n\nThis grass is drought resistant, cold tolerant, and does very well in poor soil conditions. It is the most shade-tolerant of all grass types and prefers rocky or sandy soil and clay. Full sun reduces fine fescue quality and results in thinning. Fine fescue is recommended for northern gardens and warm, shady areas.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grasses with one exception: creeping red fescues possess rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage is a must; tolerates infertile soils; sandy soils generally work well
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Often used in a mix with other cool-season grasses, especially in sun/shade mixes
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Tall fescue is perhaps the most popular cool-season grass in the upper piedmont area thanks to it remaining green during winter. Considered a reliable, low-maintenance grass, tall fescue is both tolerant to heat and resistant to cold. It thrives in full sun and partial shade, and because it can withstand heat and sudden dips in temperature, tall fescue works well for lawns in transition zones of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue often needs to be irrigated to remain attractive during the summer. It grows best on fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 but can thrive in a wide range of soil conditions. It has a coarse texture, with a medium to dark green color and an extensive root system.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate, but low ability to recuperate from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Fast rate of growth, so plan to mow often
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations. Many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate under proper management conditions
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile, good drainage, but will tolerate a wider range of soil conditions
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Reseed every few years to repair bare spots and thinning; don’t plant old varieties such as Kentucky-31; look for “turf-type” tall fescue (TTTF). Seed blends with more than one TTTF cultivar give the best chance for a strong lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Goats](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
As great as it would be to have a folk band serenading you in your yard, Kentucky bluegrass is actually a species of cool-season grass. Also, despite what the name suggests, it’s not blue, but dark green.
\n\n\n\nConfusing, we know. Apparently, when early Kentucky settlers looked out at the fields, the seed heads had a purplish, blue-green hue in the sun, hence the name.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass (the plant) performs best when paired with tall fescue for a lush lawn that lasts throughout the year. It grows best in cool temperatures during the fall, winter, and spring, and its growth slows during the summer. Kentucky bluegrass tolerates some shade but prefers full sun.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate, but will survive by going dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency; a high-maintenance grass
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, fertile
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Produces a dense lawn under ideal conditions; many of these traits (shade tolerance, drought resistance, etc.) vary widely by cultivar, with newer cultivars generally being hardier, more resistant to disease, etc.; mow taller in summer; most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns
\n\n\n\n![\"Long](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Perennial ryegrass is the best grass for transition zone areas like Raleigh because it can withstand the warm season despite being a grass type for the cool season. Ryegrass is a thick, dense, dark green grass that can stand up to heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass is resistant to pests and thrives in well-drained soil. Its roots establish quickly, and it has a long growing season, all of which make it one of the most popular cool-season grasses. Perennial ryegrass is often used for winter overseeding on golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns to provide winter color in warm climates.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low (summer dormancy in some areas)
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but poor recuperative ability
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing requirement, depending on cutting height (lower cutting heights require more frequent mowing)
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, especially in areas with hot, humid summers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Most often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue in a cool-season mix; well known for its excellent striping ability, low mowing tolerance (reel mower fans, this one’s for you), and rapid germination rate (four to seven days). Needs moderate levels of fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe most commonly used grasses in North Carolina are warm season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
Fine fescues are finely bladed grasses that are the softest and most lush grasses for bare feet.
Tall fescue thrives in sun or medium shade in the mountains and is the best for a green lawn year-round.
Bermudagrass is the best for Raleigh and regions of North Carolina with warm temperatures since it has a deep root system and provides resistance from heat, drought, and insects.
For homeowners in Raleigh, it can be tricky picking out the right grass for your lawn. But thankfully, your location makes your decision more flexible since you can safely house both cool-season and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to learn more about how to care for your lawn for each season, you can check out our guide on spring and fall lawn care tips in Raleigh.
\n\n\n\nLooking for help from an experienced professional? You can keep your lawn looking lush and healthy with the help of Raleigh lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxhere
\n","title":"8 Best Grass Types for Raleigh, NC","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1789c/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg","srcSet":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/107df/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 320w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/293e9/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 500w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/f2cbb/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 800w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1789c/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 960w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/c26c2/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1dd6e/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/67b76/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 320w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/8df11/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 500w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/98a65/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 800w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1dd6e/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 960w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/3cc96/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Best Grass Types for Raleigh, NC | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Need a new lawn? You have the option of 8 different cool-season and warm-season grasses that thrive in a Raleigh yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"f3cedee9-3f12-5780-b5e8-eb8974ca3926","slug":"diy-hydroseeding","path":"/blog/diy-hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Are you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY […]
\n","content":"\nAre you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated. Let’s go over the steps.
\n\n\nAlso called hydraulic mulch seeding, hydroseeding is simply the process of seeding with a slurry mixture of seeds, water, mulch, and fertilizer. It has a slew of benefits, such as faster seed germination and a more uniform look.
\n\n\n\nThe slurry is sprayed with hydroseeding equipment or a pump. You can also buy a do-it-yourself hydroseeding kit that comes with the slurry ingredients and its own sprayer.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou need the following tools and materials for your hydroseeding project:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe very first step is planning out the specifics of your hydroseed slurry: the types of seeds you want to plant and the mulch that you’ll be using.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to seed grass types that match your area’s climate: cool-season grasses for the North and warm-season grasses down South. With hydroseeding, you can plant multiple types of grass instead of just one. Some people blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue, for example.
\n\n\n\nThere are many types of mulch that homeowners can use in their hydroseed slurries. Each one has its own pros and cons. Here are some of these mulch types:
\n\n\n\nFinding out the condition of your soil before you plant new seeds is a good move; it will tell you if the soil needs any amendments to ensure the most optimal growing conditions for your new grass. A soil test — either from a lab or from a home testing kit — will tell you your soil’s pH level and what nutrients it has.
\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. You can add lime if your soil is too acidic; add sulfur if it’s too alkaline. Any number outside of this pH range can cause your grass to grow poorly or even die.
\n\n\n\nUsing the soil test results, you can also determine what fertilizer to add to your hydroseed slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow it’s time to prepare your lawn for hydroseeding. The first step is clearing your lawn, as hydroseeding is most successful when applied to bare soil. Clear your lawn of existing grass (dead or alive), old plants, weeds, rocks, tools, toys, and other debris.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNext, you should mark any sprinkler heads around your lawn. This is especially important if you’re lugging around a heavy hydroseeding machine.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a sprinkler system but want to install one, you should do it while you’re prepping your lawn and before spraying the slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grading](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Grading-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JulNichols / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrading the soil is simply the process of adjusting its slope to prevent rainwater and runoff from getting to your house and other structures. When grading soil, it also gets leveled.
\n\n\n\nTo prepare your lawn for hydroseeding, grade your soil 2 ½ to 3 inches below the final grade you want it to be. The final grade is how high you want your lawn to be. Afterward, fill in holes and level your lawn with a rake and/or a yard leveler.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe next step is adding your soil additives: topsoil, compost, and sulfur or lime (if needed). The first two components stimulate healthy grass growth mainly because they supply your growing grass with nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAdd enough topsoil and compost so that it adds about 3 inches to your lawn’s grade. Then, churn it into the existing soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time to re-grade and level your lawn to the final grade you want it to have. It’s now ready to be hydroseeded!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo you have a hydroseeder? Chances are that the average homeowner doesn’t have one. In that case, you have three options: renting a hydroseeder, making one yourself, or buying a hydroseeding kit in-store or online. Buying a hydroseeding kit is not a bad option if you need to seed a smaller area.
\n\n\n\nYou can rent a hydroseeding machine for covering large areas from equipment rental companies like United Rentals, Sunbelt Rentals, and MacAllister Rentals.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather make your own hydroseeder, this video tutorial will show you how:
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your hydroseeding equipment, it’s time to mix your slurry. If you have a DIY hydroseeding kit, you only need to read the instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow much of each slurry component you need depends heavily on the size of the area you’ll be spraying. Typically, you’ll need 5 to 7 lbs of seed, 40 to 50 lbs of mulch, and 20 lbs of fertilizer for every 1,000 sq. ft. you’ll be hydroseeding. You’ll need enough water to fill your equipment about ¾ of the way. When in doubt, ask your materials supplier for guidance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding machines can vary in how they’re operated; always read the manual for specific instructions. However, you can expect this general process:
\n\n\n\nNow, it’s time to spray your lawn. It’s best to spray when it’s calm and cool outside, but it’s ok if it’s predicted to rain lightly that day. Wear your protective equipment before spraying, as you might be out in the sun for a while.
\n\n\n\nPlan your path ahead of time to prevent you from having to step on the areas you’ve just sprayed. Keep the nozzle at least 3 inches from the ground and spray slowly and evenly throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou might want to overlap your slurry a little bit while you spray. This ensures there aren’t any gaps that will result in bare patches later on. You can make this easier for yourself if you add lawn-friendly dye to your slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"hydroseeded](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCongratulations, you’ve now hydroseeded your lawn! However, this is only the beginning. You’ll need to maintain your new grass for it to grow into a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few hydroseeded lawn maintenance tips:
\n\n\n\nJust like when you’re planting grass seeds the old-fashioned way, the best time to hydroseed is during your chosen grass type’s growing season.
\n\n\n\nFor Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, you should hydroseed in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses, and other cool-season grasses should be hydroseeded from late summer to early fall.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can hydroseed in the summer, it can be a bit more challenging as you must keep your new lawn moist for the first few weeks, and water tends to evaporate in the hot summer sun before it can soak into the soil and reach the grass’s roots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to grow new grass in a larger area, then you should hydroseed. If you’re filling in bare patches, then it’s better to overseed the regular way. The hydroseed slurry can injure or kill your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOn average, the cost of professional hydroseeding ranges from 8 to 20 cents per square foot. The rate will depend on many factors, including your lawn’s condition and how big it is.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated and can make for an interesting project to tackle. You could save money on labor, too. However, it can be more beneficial to hire a professional because they have the knowledge and the equipment to hydroseed your lawn already. Besides, a pro will usually be more successful at hydroseeding than the average homeowner.
Wikilawn can connect you with dependable lawn care pros that can hydroseed, fertilize, and mow your lawn for you. Hire a lawn maintenance pro near you today for a lush lawn without all the work.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/107df/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/293e9/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/f2cbb/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/c26c2/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/67b76/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/8df11/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/98a65/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/3cc96/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Hydroseeding can give you the beautiful and lush lawn of your dreams. You can even do it yourself. Learn how with this DIY hydroseeding guide."}}},{"node":{"id":"dc059097-0781-5142-aaaf-839e875bd517","slug":"fire-resistant-landscaping-arizona","path":"/lawn-care/az/fire-resistant-landscaping-arizona/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A native of Ohio, Whitney Lehnecker is a career journalist and newspaper designer. She now lives in Central Florida with her husband and two pups, Goose and Bindi.","name":"Whitney Lehnecker","id":"a3d49656-3773-5908-9fcf-716640f40233","path":"/author/whitney-lehnecker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6f7e31a20c84b10fb9f62021b69489e7?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 15th, 2023","excerpt":"Wildfires are a fact of life here in Arizona. And while you can’t stop them from occurring, a really good fire-resistant landscaping strategy will help keep your home safe from serious damage, or even total ruin due to wildfires. Don’t get the wrong idea. There is no such thing as fireproof plants. Plants burn. But […]
\n","content":"\nWildfires are a fact of life here in Arizona. And while you can’t stop them from occurring, a really good fire-resistant landscaping strategy will help keep your home safe from serious damage, or even total ruin due to wildfires.
\n\n\n\nDon’t get the wrong idea. There is no such thing as fireproof plants. Plants burn. But if you select plants that don’t ignite violently, create a buffer zone around your house, and choose your hardscape materials wisely, you remove the fuel that wildfires need to be, well, wild.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/14179765885_c177dccc9d_c-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon Department of Forestry / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nDefensible space is the barrier between your property and the vegetation around it. It slows down or prevents fire from igniting your home. Not just that, but defensible space makes it easy for firefighters to put out the fire without endangering their lives.
\n\n\n\nThe University of Arizona Agricultural Extension Service recommends dividing a property’s defensible space into three zones:
\n\n\n\nZone 1
\n\n\n\nZone 1 extends 30 feet from home and should be free of fire hazards.
\n\n\n\nHere are some guidelines for this zone.
\n\n\n\nZone 2
\n\n\n\nZone 2 extends beyond 30 feet. Here are some guidelines to prepare this zone for fire.
\n\n\n\nZone 3
\n\n\n\nZone 3 extends to your property line. This zone obstructs the fire’s path and keeps the flames on the ground.
\n\n\n\nHere are some tips for this zone.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/gravel-mulch-1.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sten Porse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nMulch helps plants conserve water and reduce weed growth. But choosing the wrong mulch is like adding fuel to the fire.
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulches like gravel, pebbles, and river rocks have great fire resistance. These mulches also look good and require little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nIf you prefer organic mulches, we recommend wood chips as they are the least flammable. In fact, a study by the University of Nevada Cooperative Extension indicates that composted wood chips are the least flammable mulches.
\n\n\n\nAvoid the following mulches:
\n\n\n\n![\"Many](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/nature-plant-meadow-flower-purple-herb-1111339-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nThis term is a bit of a misnomer. No plants are fire-resistant. That is, they all burn and die when exposed to flames. But some plants won’t help spread flames.
\n\n\n\nFire-resistant plants:
\n\n\n\nHere are some of the most fire-resistant plants:
\n\n\n\nBut before you start growing these plants, be sure to plant them correctly.
\n\n\n\nFire travels faster uphill, so if you live on a hill, increase the distance between the plants.
\n\n\n\n| Slope Size | Shrub Distance | Tree Distance |
| Flat to mild slope (less than 20%) | 2 times the shrub’s height | 10 feet |
| Mild to moderate slope (20% to 40%) | 4 times the shrub’s height | 20 feet |
| Moderate to steep slope (greater than 40%) | 6 times the shrub’s height | 30 feet |
Wood fences, pergolas, and gazebos look great, but they quickly catch fire and spread. Metal is a fire-resistant alternative to wood.
\n\n\n\nMetal structures don’t look as classy and elegant as wood, but they are cheaper, more durable, and require less maintenance. Just wash metal structures regularly, and they will last for years without you having to worry about decay, rot, and insects.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chairs](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hardscape.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rochester Concrete / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are non-living materials added to a landscape design. They can be both decorative and practical, and more importantly, they create non-flammable barriers between a wildfire and your home.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes include:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re in an area prone to wildfires, you obviously shouldn’t use materials like wood for your hardscapes. Instead, use concrete, bricks, and metal to minimize fire spread.
\n\n\n\nInstalling retaining walls around plant beds can prevent flames from reaching the plants. Constructing walkways in between your garden can also slow fire spread.
\n\n\n\nLarger hardscapes like patios, pergolas, and gazebos can create fire-resistant zones around your home. They also help firefighters battle the fire without endangering their lives.
\n\n\n\nArizona is one of the most wildfire-prone states in the country, so it pays to put a little thought into how to protect your home.
\n\n\n\nCreating defensible space, growing fire-resistant plants, applying mulch, building hardscapes, and constructing metal structures can help minimize fire damage. Installing artificial grass can also help slow the advance of a fire.
\n\n\n\nSound like too big a job for one person? Get in touch with Wikilawn’s lawn care pros, who can help you create a yard that is both beautiful and safe.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Yuma, Arizona / Cbl62 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"How Landscaping Can Keep Your Arizona Home Safe From Wildfires","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/1789c/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/107df/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg 320w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/293e9/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg 500w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/f2cbb/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg 800w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/1789c/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg 960w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/c26c2/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/1dd6e/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/67b76/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp 320w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/8df11/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp 500w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/98a65/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp 800w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/1dd6e/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp 960w,\n/static/bdbd0069fd258cc77beaf1b575ca0579/3cc96/1280px-Norton_House_Yuma_AZ.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How Landscaping Can Keep Your Arizona Home Safe From Wildfires | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"With some careful planning and the right landscaping, you can minimize the threat of wildfire damage to your Arizona home"}}},{"node":{"id":"db13fc4a-2432-5470-8eec-78367823d3d1","slug":"best-grass-types-minnesota","path":"/lawn-care/mn/best-grass-types-minnesota/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Descendant of the Fulani tribe, Gettysburg-obsessed Marine Corps brat, and lover of all things writing and editing, Andréa Butler has penned articles for Sesi magazine and sites, such as LivingSocial, Talbot Digital, Xickle, and Rachel Ray. Andréa holds a B.A. in English from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and an M.A. in magazine journalism from Kent State University.","name":"Andréa Butler","id":"dae2e109-3ba9-5073-a19a-e341e567190e","path":"/author/andrea-butler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c671545b46efb40d2596d32a775f26a1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"April 29th, 2023","excerpt":"Living in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all […]
\n","content":"\nLiving in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all those nearby public green spaces. Achieve your landscaping ambitions by planting one of the best grass types for Minnesota, detailed below.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses boils down to their distinct biologies, which cause them to complete photosynthesis in different ways. Specifically, the number of carbon atoms the grass type carries during photosynthesis determines the type of weather in which various grass types can grow.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses contain four carbon atoms, meaning they can convert carbon dioxide into oxygen more easily in hot weather, favoring temps up to 95 degrees. Grasses under this classification typically grow from early summer through early fall, as they are drought-tolerant, lovers of full sun, and haters of frigid conditions.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses contain three carbon atoms, making them best suited for temperatures between 65 degrees and 75 degrees. Their prime growing season is from late winter to early spring, as they are unbothered by frost and can withstand shade and colder weather. They also actively grow in autumn.
\n\n\n\nWhile our summers are becoming increasingly warmer, it’s because of Minnesota’s cold winters that the only grass types that can flourish here are cool-season varieties.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Kentucky_Blue_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA favorite of homeowners across Minnesota, Kentucky bluegrass is beloved for its thick, carpet feel; dark green, rounded blades; and blue-tipped seedheads. Germination of this grass species takes place through subterranean stems called rhizomes, which can also help repair the grass if it starts to suffer under heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nThis turfgrass has little tolerance for shade and delights in full sun — as long as it gets plenty of water. Periods of drought are not welcomed by Kentucky bluegrass, but it can survive just fine, falling dormant to protect itself. Of all the cool-season grasses, though, this choice is the best at withstanding the below-freezing temps Minnesota is known for.
\n\n\n\nTo keep this high-maintenance turf in tip-top shape, be sure to seed, fertilize, aerate, dethatch, and use broadleaf weed control as needed between late summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For homeowners living in the Northeast region and Northwest region, an assorted mix of Kentucky bluegrass seed and turf-type tall fescue or perennial ryegrass thrives best; available premixed and bags are typically marked “Northern mixture”
\n\n\n\nRather than a single grass species, fine fescue is actually an umbrella term for a variety of grass types — from creeping red fescue to Chewings fescue to hard fescue to sheep fescue — and each one grows differently, depending on the surrounding conditions. For example, hard fescue and sheep fescue grow best in full sun, while Chewings and creeping red fescue grow really well in shaded areas. Variation is also seen in color, with hues ranging from dark green to light green to blue-green, contingent on type.
\n\n\n\nUnlike Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue loves shade; sandy, rocky, and clay-based soils; is salt-tolerant, and is super low-maintenance — and eco-friendly, as its manual water needs are virtually nonexistent. Area rainfall should more than suffice, and even if a drought comes along, this grass species will be just fine; although, it may go dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nMade up of pointy, but soft, narrow blades that feel smooth to the touch, fine fescue is a barefoot-friendly lawn grass. And while it’s not a fan of heavy foot traffic (think kids and pets regularly running around and playing on it), your lawn should be totally fine for average use.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions; prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well in all regions (Northwest region, Northeast region, Central region, the Metro, Southwest Region, South Central region, and Southeast region), especially when mixed with varieties of fine fescues or with other cool-season grasses
\n\n\n\nFiner than traditional tall fescue (which doesn’t hold up as well in Minnesota winters), this grass species isn’t troubled by heavy foot traffic or drought because of its deep roots. Identified by its emerald green color and coarse texture, turf-type tall fescue is another low-maintenance option and can thrive in either full sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is available to grow bunch-style or with rhizomes and has low water and fertilization needs. Plant as a combination of various turf-type tall fescue cultivars and expect an even deeper root system with stronger drought and disease resistance. You can also blend this type with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-style growth habit or rhizomes, depending on variety
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; grows well in partial shade and full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Weekly mowing; low water and fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2 and 4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained; use fungicide to fight brown patch
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5–7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well statewide. Most cold hardy in the Southeast region.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lolium_perenne_L._Perennial_Ryegrass_-_cultivated_3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Arthur Chapman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-2.0
\n\n\n\nThere’s a semi-quick fix for those bare patches and thinning areas bringing down the aesthetic vibe of your lawn — perennial ryegrass. Quick with the germination process, this fast-growing grass, which spreads via vertical “tillers,” produces a bunch-style growth with wide blades, a dark green hue, and a glossy sheen. While you can plant it on its own, experts suggest combining it with other cool-season grasses, such as turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not the most cold-hardy or drought-resistant of the cool-season grasses, but it does boast some salt tolerance and can withstand heavy foot traffic. This sun-loving grass should be planted in well-drained, fertile soil and must receive regular watering.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements; thatch is not significant
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 1.5 and 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: One of the best grass seeds for Northwest and Northeast regions; higher quality output.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is just what it sounds like — planting seeds over grass that already exists. This is done to fill in bare and thinning spots to produce a thicker, lusher lawn. In the Metro, as well as in other regions of our state, the best time to overseed is in the fall. The lack of extreme temps this time of year will allow optimal germination for the new seeds.
Now that you know the best grass seed to use on your lawn, let’s take a look at the ones you should avoid. When it comes to warm-season grasses, including bermudagrass and Zoysia, none are a fit with Minnesota’s climate.
And while perennial ryegrass is a nice pick for these upper midwestern temps, annual ryegrass is, well, not so much. The latter does not recur like its perennial sister, so it’s usually only used as a temporary cover.
Transforming your yard from traditional lawn to prairie is another sustainable option. In this scenario, you’d use native ornamental grasses as an alternative to turfgrass. Benefits of prairie lands include diverse flora and fauna and low-maintenance landscaping. Here are a few native grasses to use:
• switchgrass
• big bluestem
• Canada wildrye
• blue grama
• prairie dropseed
• yellow-fox sedge
• bottlebrush grass
Your selection of turfgrasses, ornamental grasses, and native plants should take into account the growing conditions of your yard: Is it shade- or sun-heavy? Is the soil rich and fertile or dry and sandy? What about the hardiness zone, maintenance commitment, and types of wildlife you’d like to attract?
\n\n\n\nIf you still have absolutely no clue where to start, hit up spots like Afton State Park and Roscoe Prairie Scientific and Natural Area for inspiration. Need to hire a Minnesota lawn care pro near you to maintain the yard’s new turf? Connect with trusted pros in Minneapolis and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Minnesota Office Building / Ken Lund / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/107df/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/293e9/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/f2cbb/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/c26c2/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/67b76/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/8df11/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/98a65/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/3cc96/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking to redesign your Minnesota landscape but don’t know which grass seed to use? We’ve broken down the four best grass types for Minnesota."}}},{"node":{"id":"64429b1f-2f8a-53b3-a1e0-32ebab2dd29c","slug":"lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"The amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do. The city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits […]
\n","content":"\nThe amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do.
\n\n\n\nThe city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits lawn watering between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. each day. This ban exists because of a state requirement for cities to enact a water supply plan. For the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to approve the plan, cities have to adopt several conservation methods. You’ll find similar restrictions in other metro area municipalities.
\n\n\n\nThe suburb of Blaine has the same daytime sprinkling ban in effect from May 15 to Sept. 15. Blaine’s lawn watering restrictions go one step further. People with addresses ending in an odd number can only water on odd-numbered days. Those with addresses ending in an even number only get to water on even-numbered days. This restriction is in place year-round.
\n\n\n\nSo how can Minneapolis and St. Paul get away with no lawn watering restrictions? It’s because most of their water comes from the Mississippi River. The suburbs get their water from underground aquifers which could run dry. According to the Water Treatment and Distribution Services (WTDS), Minneapolis pumps 21 billion gallons of water from the river each year. To make it drinkable, WTDS filters soften and disinfect the water. Fun fact: Minneapolis has more than 1,000 miles of underground water mains. That’s enough to stretch from Minneapolis to Denver.
\n\n\n\nSt. Paul Regional Water Services provides 40 million gallons of water to more than 425,000 customers a day. The city uses similar procedures as Minneapolis to make the water safe for drinking.
\n\n\n\nBoth Minneapolis and St. Paul ask customers to conserve water, even though lawn watering restrictions aren’t in place. Both cities recommend that you water lawns in the morning or evening and not at all when it’s windy. Only water your lawn when it needs it instead of using a fixed schedule and adjust your sprinklers to avoid the sidewalks. Finally, aerate your lawn to allow more water to soak in, and let the grass grow taller during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check with your city or county government for any lawn watering restrictions in your neighborhood. Penalties vary for violating the restrictions in suburban areas. If you live in the Twin Cities proper, join your suburban neighbors by watering smart this summer.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about pest control and prevention in your lawn? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
Mississippi’s diverse climate allows for both warm-season and cool-season grasses to grow, though high rainfall and hot temperatures sometimes hinder the successful growth of a lush lawn. Despite these challenges, agriculture has been successful in Mississippi for centuries thanks to its naturally fertile soils. Whether you choose a warm-season or cool-season grass for your landscape […]
\n","content":"\nMississippi’s diverse climate allows for both warm-season and cool-season grasses to grow, though high rainfall and hot temperatures sometimes hinder the successful growth of a lush lawn. Despite these challenges, agriculture has been successful in Mississippi for centuries thanks to its naturally fertile soils.
\n\n\n\nWhether you choose a warm-season or cool-season grass for your landscape depends on many factors. Our guide will tell you everything you need to know about choosing the best cultivar. Read on to discover the 7 best grass types for Mississippi.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re new to lawn care, distinguishing between cool-season and warm-season grasses can be challenging. Although many maintenance tips apply to both types, they have their share of differences.
\n\n\n\nNorthern Mississippi is in the transition zone, experiencing both hot summers and cold winters. Both cool-season and warm-season grass types grow well in these regions. In the rest of the Magnolia State, warm-season cultivars dominate.
\n\n\n\nEvery homeowner should know when their grass grows, when it goes dormant, and how it handles climate conditions. Whether you select a cool-season or warm-season grass depends on your preferences, location, and the characteristics of your landscape. Consider the unique traits of different grass types:
\n\n\n\nBottom line: Plant warm-season grasses in late spring or early summer, and stick to sowing cool-season varieties in the fall.
\n\n\n\nThe following grass types adapt to the climatic and soil conditions of Mississippi:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass, also known as Bahama grass or dog’s tooth grass, is an excellent choice for many parts of the South, including Mississippi. It is quick-growing and thrives in most soil types. Bermudagrass is drought, humidity, and salt-tolerant and grows best in full sun.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season cultivar stands up to heavy foot traffic, recovers quickly, and is disease resistant. Bermudagrass is relatively high-maintenance, requiring weekly fertilization and watering during the spring growing season.
\n\n\n\nCommon bermudagrass is coarser in texture, though hybrid cultivars can create a more fine-textured, albeit high-maintenance, lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and is able to outcompete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns. Tolerant of most soil types
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Carpetgrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sugeesh / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCarpetgrass likes tropical climates, moist, fertile soils, and full sun but can easily thrive in partial shade. In fact, experts recommend planting carpetgrass in Mississippi landscapes with large shade trees.
\n\n\n\nCarpetgrass thrives on one inch of water per week. It is a low-maintenance and adaptable grass with a coarse texture that creates a dense, light-to-medium green lawn. It is high-maintenance like bermudagrass and requires regular mowing.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow weekly to control seed heads
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Large patch is common
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Infertile, moist but not waterlogged, acidic, sandy
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Usually established by seed. Flourishes in warm and humid conditions along the Gulf Coast. Does not thrive in arid climates.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThough slow-growing, centipedegrass is a Mississippi favorite. This medium-textured grass has bright green leaves and a dense growth habit. It is low-maintenance and disease and pest-resistant. Cultivars grow well in partial shade but prefer full sun.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass isn’t exceptionally drought-tolerant and requires sandy, limestone soils for steady growth. It prefers acidic soils with a pH below 7.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; doesn’t tolerate heavy traffic; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_starr_070906-8518_zoysia_sp.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a drought and heat-tolerant warm-season grass that blooms in May. It prefers full sun and sandy, well-drained soils. It is more cold and shade-resistant than other warm-season cultivars thanks to a deep root system. Cultivars can hold their own against drought, heavy foot traffic, and weeds.
\n\n\n\nThis slow-growing, dark-green turfgrass produces a dense lawn that needs to be cut with sharp mower blades. Insects have a hard time invading zoysiagrass thanks to its thick blades and growth habit.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a popular cool-season grass, well suited for the northern regions of Mississippi. It is easy to establish, has a coarse texture, and remains green during the cold months when warm-season varieties turn brown and go dormant.
\n\n\n\nTall Fescue is a bunch-type grass that grows most vigorously during spring and fall. It is adaptable but prefers fertile, well-drained, clay soils. Cultivars require regular irrigation during the summer months. Tall fescue loves the sun but tolerates moderate shade.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch forming)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – doesn’t recover easily from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations, as many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate – can be susceptible to brown patch, leaf spot, seedling disease, cutworms, armyworms, grubs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fertilize it only once in September and November. To restore the lushness of your lawn and address thinning and patchy areas, it is recommended to sow new grass seeds every few years.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a high-maintenance, high-quality turfgrass with deep roots that rely on regular watering and fertilization. Kentucky bluegrass recovers quickly from injury, so active kids and pets running around won’t be a problem, and its beautiful bluish-green color increases curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nCultivars form a fine-textured, dense, carpet-like lawn, but take six months to thicken. While it grows best in the sun, it doesn’t tolerate high heat and drought unless it is well irrigated. Plank Kentucky bluegrass in northern Mississippi and Tennessee border regions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate, but will survive by going dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency; a high-maintenance grass
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, fertile
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Produces a dense lawn under ideal conditions; many of these traits (shade tolerance, drought resistance, etc.) vary widely by cultivar, with newer cultivars generally being hardier, more resistant to disease, etc.; mow taller in summer; most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lolium_perenne_TK_2021-06-26_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: T. Kebert / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is widely used throughout the U.S., but its application varies from region to region. Cultivars are commonly found in the northern regions of Mississippi, where cool and warm temperatures meet in the middle.
\n\n\n\nIt is a deep green-colored grass with a glossy texture and the highest traffic tolerance of any cool-season variety. Perennial ryegrass is often used around homes, schools, athletic fields, and parks.
\n\n\n\nThis rich, fine-textured grass wins major points for its fast germination rate, quick establishment, and disease resistance. While not as cold-hardy as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, perennial ryegrass thrives in moderate summers and cool winters. It is important to note cultivars are usually mixed with other grass types like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, or fine fescue to create a hardy and drought-tolerant lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low (summer dormancy in some areas)
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but poor recuperative ability
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing requirement, depending on cutting height (lower cutting heights require more frequent mowing)
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, especially in areas with hot, humid summers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Most often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue in a cool-season mix; well known for its excellent striping ability, low mowing tolerance (reel mower fans, this one’s for you), and rapid germination rate (four to seven days). Needs moderate levels of fertilizer
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is preferred when it comes to heavy foot traffic in the Southern states.
Zoysiagrass is one of the easiest turfgrasses to maintain. It withstands drought and survives in poor soil conditions with little upkeep. It also stands up to diseases, pests, and weeds.
Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are the best cool-season grass varieties for shaded lawns, while zoysiagrass is the most shade-tolerant warm-season cultivar.
When choosing a grass type for your lawn, consider sun exposure, soil type, watering capabilities, and maintenance needs.
\n\n\n\nThe grass type you select should match your needs and budget. Whether you pick bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, fine fescue, or any other cultivar, a well-maintained lawn is the difference between fab and drab. For additional inspiration, check out our guide detailing the best native plants for Mississippi.
\n\n\n\nFor a worry-free lawn care experience and a healthy outdoor space, let Wikilawn connect you with a local lawn care pro today. Our trusted experts are spread out across Jackson, Southaven, Olive Branch, Pearl, Ridgeland, and many other cities in the Magnolia State.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: ScottOldham / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"7 Best Grass Types for Mississippi","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.2396694214876034,"src":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1789c/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/107df/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/293e9/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/f2cbb/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1789c/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/c26c2/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1dd6e/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/67b76/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 320w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/8df11/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 500w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/98a65/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 800w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1dd6e/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 960w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/3cc96/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"7 Best Grass Types for Mississippi | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"From bermudagrass to Kentucky bluegrass, choose one of the 7 best grass types for Mississippi’s humid, subtropical climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"3c41a6a2-7e52-5d71-84fc-de4ecfbc94ed","slug":"the-pros-cons-of-diy-lawn-care-in-orlando-fl","path":"/lawn-care/fl/orlando/the-pros-cons-of-diy-lawn-care-in-orlando-fl/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"a47ebc3c-cc0b-5c7a-9e60-90ac2de0ec2d","name":"Orlando","count":10,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/orlando/"}],"date":"January 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Homeowners have to decide whether they want to higher a professional lawn care service for all of those important tasks or if they prefer the DIY lawn care route. Each option has positives and negatives, so you have to look at your unique situation! Orlando, FL residents need to consider the pros and cons of […]
\n","content":"\nHomeowners have to decide whether they want to higher a professional lawn care service for all of those important tasks or if they prefer the DIY lawn care route. Each option has positives and negatives, so you have to look at your unique situation! Orlando, FL residents need to consider the pros and cons of DIY lawn care to make the right choice.
Residents in Orlando, FL have a long growing season for their lawn when compared to other regions of the country. The higher temperatures and climate mean you do more lawn care than other homeowners, which makes Orlando unique. You need to closely consider the pros and cons of DIY lawn care vs. professional lawn care.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest pro for DIY lawn care is that it does TYPICALLY (not always) save you money. If you’re pinching pennies and making them scream, professional lawn care may not be in the budget for you.
One of the biggest areas you’ll save money is the cost of lawn mowing. If you have ¼ of an acre in Orlando, FL, the average cost to have your grass cut is $48.77. That doesn’t sound too bad, but during some periods of the year, you may have to cut your grass twice a week.
For our example, we’ll say it’s cut once a week. That’s $195.08 per month. You could spend over $2,340 per year on lawn mowing! A riding lawn mower costs anywhere between $500 and $2,000 depending on the make and model, and they last for years. You do need to pay for gas, but mowing your own grass does save you money.
Another example is the cost of overseeding your lawn. The cost can be anywhere from $500 to $1,000. Grass seed doesn’t cost that much; it’s the cost of the labor involved with overseeding. Overseeding will take you several hours to an entire day to finish yourself, but the savings there are large.
\n\n\n\nWho needs the gym? Taking care of your lawn is exercise enough, especially when the temperatures are high and you sweat a gallon or more. It’s a great way to get some exercise in or get some time alone with your headphones. No screaming kids in your ear is a bonus.
\n\n\n\nA lot of homeowners take serious pride in their lawn care and landscaping. You spend all of that time taking care of your lawn. It feels great to get the credit for how wonderful it looks! Taking care of your lawn yourself means that you can put your own creative spin on your design and how you want it to look.
\n\n\n\nYou aren’t a professional, and the results you wanted may not be achievable without their help. It takes time and practice to get it right.
The problem isn’t just not getting the results you wanted, but you might spend too much money trying to get the right results. Professionals can knock out weeds easier than homeowners can. You’ll spend weeks trying to find the right combination of chemicals and products when a professional would get it right the first time. They do this on a regular basis.
For example, core aeration is one task that can really make your lawn shine, but it can cost around $100 for a professional to aerate a 5,000 square foot lawn. It costs around $80 to rent a core aerator for the day, but it may take you more than one day to complete the task. If your results aren’t satisfactory, you may have to do it over again. In these cases, hiring a professional who can complete the task timely and properly the first time around is a wise investment of your money.
\n\n\n\nLet’s not forget that time is money as well. Do you want to invest a lot of your time taking care of your lawn? For some people, lawn care is a true joy, so taking the time for DIY lawn care is no problem for them.
You have to consider your schedule and flexibility. Do you have the time to spend on DIY lawn care? If so, that’s great, but you may find you have to give up something else to make the time.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll save money in some aspects of lawn care, but there will be hidden costs you don’t expect. Things can easily go wrong without a professional over-seeing your lawn care.
You might not notice patches of your grass starting to come up because of a grub infestation. The crabgrass weed may rapidly take over your lawn without you realizing it began! If you encounter a lawn disease or something that you don’t know how to fix, you’ll spend money fixing it and you might end up still having to call a professional.
The average cost of weed control in Orlando, FL is $60. If you have to experiment and purchase a few brands of weed killer, you’ll spend more than that! An average gallon of weed killer is around $20!
Don’t forget that you need to fertilize our lawn at least once or twice a year. The average cost of lawn fertilizing in Orlando, FL is $60 for ¼ of an acre. If you do that yourself, you will spend several hours and just a bit less in fertilizer. Homeowners forget to include the cost of things when they consider how much they’ll save by using DIY lawn care.
\n\n\n\nIf you love taking care of your lawn or if you don’t have any room in the budget, DIY lawn care could be right for you. In most circumstances, a professional lawn care service has many benefits. You benefit from their expertise, and they come well-equipped to handle anything that they might encounter. Plus, you’re reclaiming hours of your life that you can spend with your family or having fun!
In Music City, homeowners need a lawn that both stands out and blends with the local ecosystem. Native plants can be perfect for giving lawns a meadow-like appearance and attracting beautiful butterflies. Below, we break down the Nashville native plants that will make you the talk of the town. In this article: Why Go Native? […]
\n","content":"\nIn Music City, homeowners need a lawn that both stands out and blends with the local ecosystem. Native plants can be perfect for giving lawns a meadow-like appearance and attracting beautiful butterflies. Below, we break down the Nashville native plants that will make you the talk of the town.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nOne of the ways gardeners ensure that plants work well for their region is by referencing the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. This is especially important when selecting non-native plants for your yard. However, by selecting native plants, homeowners can ensure that their lawns will thrive.
\n\n\n\nAnother good resource for those looking to learn more about native plants is the Tennessee Native Plant Society. They advise homeowners who want native plants to familiarize themselves with their HOA or city ordinances that may classify some native plants as weeds. To avoid this, you can also place a sign on your lawn indicating that your plants are native and helping local pollinators.
\n\n\n\n![\"Northern](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Northern-Maidenhair-Fern.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Schnobby / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nNorthern maidenhair ferns are perfect for gardens with shade. This slow-growing native plant is typically considered low maintenance. Northern maidenhair is a dainty plant that grows naturally in wooded areas around Tennessee. Typically, this fern sprouts fiddleheads that are reddish purple or pink.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Fern
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moist soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers humus-rich well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 2 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Butterfly-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nButterfly weed is part of the milkweed family. This colorful long-lasting wildflower attracts butterflies and bees due to its abundant nectar. A large taproot allows this plant to survive harsh, dry conditions. But be careful. Butterfly weed tolerates drought but can struggle is overwatered.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium to dry
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers sandy loam
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Blue](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Blue-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sten Porse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBlue star is a feathery plant that features blue, star-shaped flowers and turns a lovely golden color in the fall. A low-maintenance plant, it attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Blue stars can survive in a variety of soil types including clay and sand. It is a long-lasting plant that resists pests such as deer and rabbits.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers humus-rich soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 3 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Dogwood](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dogwood.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA small low-maintenance tree, the dogwood works well as a screen or border accent. Dogwoods bloom white flowers in early spring and produce blue or red fruit in the fall. This native tree grows well in swampy or wetland areas. The dogwood attracts wildlife such as birds, butterflies, and bees.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to medium moisture
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers loam, tolerates sandy soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 8 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Maximillian](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Maximillian-Sunflowers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn addition to Maximilian’s sunflower, several other varieties of sunflowers are native to middle Tennessee. Sunflowers are best suited for gardens with plenty of space because they can grow up to 7 feet tall. These bright, showy yellow flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds. Maximilian’s sunflower spreads aggressively and is easy to grow.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderately wet to moderately dry
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 7 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Baptisia](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Baptisia-australis-Blue-False-Indigo.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fritzflohrreynolds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWild blue indigo sprouts blue flowers and becomes a robust bush-like plant when fully grown. This plant turns a silvery-gray color during the fall. Wild blue indigo can be difficult to transplant due to its extensive root system. Butterflies and bees enjoy the flowers.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun, tolerates some shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/American-Wisteria.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Photo by David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAmerican wisteria is a climbing vine with shiny dark green leaves. Its fragrant bluish-purple flowers are large and form in drooping clusters. American wisteria is frequently used as an ornamental plant. Additionally, this plant is important for butterfly larvae who use it as a food source. American wisteria can be susceptible to fungal diseases and chewing insects.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Vine
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moderately fertile loam
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 15 to 30 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Buttonbush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: The Cosmonaut / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe buttonbush is a shrub that has distinctive white flowers that grow in spherical clusters. These clusters of flowers resemble pincushions and give the plant a somewhat tropical appearance. The buttonbush grows brown ornamental fruit.
\n\n\n\nBecause buttonbush naturally grows around ponds and in swamps, it requires a particularly moist environment when grown in a garden. A honey plant, the buttonbush attracts bees, butterflies, and water birds such as ducks.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Tolerant of a variety of soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 5 to 12 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Scarlet-Bee-Balm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: H. Zell / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nScarlet bee balm has beautiful red flowers in mid to late summer. Because this herbaceous perennial is in the mint family, it will give off a minty scent when its leaves are crushed. Scarlet bee balm attracts wildlife such as bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Its flowers are also edible.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers rich humus soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\n![\"Woodland](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Woodland-Phlox.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWoodland phlox is a herbaceous perennial often used as an ornamental plant due to its lovely blue flowers. While it has attractive fragrant flowers, it is a fairly nondescript plant when not in bloom. Woodland phlox attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Unfortunately, it also draws deer and rabbits so it may need additional care and protection.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nSun: Part to full shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet to moderately wet soil
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefers rocky or sandy soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nPlants native to your area are more likely to establish quickly and thrive. These native plants create a natural habitat for local wildlife such as butterflies and birds in your backyard. Together, this means that native plants are usually lower maintenance and better for the environment.
It is typically best to plant your garden a few weeks before the last frost date, which, in Nashville, is April 15.
Blue star, wild blue indigo, American wisteria, and buttonbush can be toxic if ingested.
Alternatively, Maximilian’s sunflower and scarlet bee balm are edible plants.
These common Tennessee native plants each have features that make them perfect for your Nashville lawn. Homeowners in Nashville should choose the native plants that fit their preferred maintenance level and aesthetic needs. Ensure that you select native plants that bring desirable wildlife to your home and confirm the toxicity level of your plants if you have children or pets.
\n\n\n\nStill, looking for ways to enhance your Music City lawn? Check out our list of the best grasses for Nashville lawns to find a variety of options that are ideal for Tennessee’s transitional climate. For help with lawn maintenance in Nashville, contact your local professional.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Oak Hill Garden Club in Nashville / Carol Norquist, NGC Chairman / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"10 Best Native Plants for Nashville, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1789c/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg","srcSet":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/107df/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 320w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/293e9/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 500w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/f2cbb/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 800w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1789c/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 960w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/c26c2/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1dd6e/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/67b76/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 320w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/8df11/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 500w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/98a65/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 800w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/1dd6e/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 960w,\n/static/8240c61da8dbd61d17597595d699defc/3cc96/Oak-Hill-GC-Nashville-Tennessee.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Native Plants for Nashville, TN","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"These 10 native plants will thrive in Nashville’s transitional climate and attract beneficial wildlife to your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"f3b67bb5-6efc-5204-9fc2-8b87b2fb54f8","slug":"worst-lawn-weeds-dallas","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/worst-lawn-weeds-dallas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 18th, 2019","excerpt":"Weeds are like stealthy ninjas, gaining control of your lawn and bringing it to the brink of destruction. Even when you think you are doing everything right, diligently applying your pre-emergent herbicide and swooping in immediately to pull weeds that pop up in your lush Dallas lawn, these pesky invaders multiply before your eyes. Luckily, […]
\n","content":"\nWeeds are like stealthy ninjas, gaining control of your lawn and bringing it to the brink of destruction. Even when you think you are doing everything right, diligently applying your pre-emergent herbicide and swooping in immediately to pull weeds that pop up in your lush Dallas lawn, these pesky invaders multiply before your eyes. Luckily, we compiled a list of the most common lawn weeds in Dallas, including tips on how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeed Control Chemical Treatments
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLike a good con man, weeds love a weak spot. These lawn invaders signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health. They love low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Maintain a healthy lawn with routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization schedules, and the weeds won’t stand a chance.
\n\n\n\nCheck out some reasons why weed control is so important:
\n\n\n\nThere are two ways to control weeds in your lawn: chemical treatments and hand pulling. Pulling weeds by hand is the safest removal method, but it isn’t always the best. Be sure to identify the type of weed you are dealing with before selecting your removal method.
\n\n\n\nExperts agree, hand weeding is just as important as chemical removal methods. You should aim to weed your yard and garden weekly or bi-weekly. Here are some tips to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Annual-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAnnual bluegrass, also known as Poa annua, is an annual grass that reproduces with creeping stolons. It appears in late summer and lasts through fall. It has a dense, clumping growth pattern with serrated, boat-shaped leaves.
\n\n\n\nAnnual bluegrass grows rapidly, easily out-competing existing turfgrass. It is important to note this annual weed is adaptable and responds well to mowing, and it is used as turfgrass in commercial settings like golf courses.
\n\n\n\nAnnual bluegrass is best controlled using a pre-emergent herbicide in the fall and responding to follow-up growth with a post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers disturbed, cultivated soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Bull-Thistle.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Morefield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKnown as Texas thistle in Dallas, bull thistle is a broadleaf biennial, meaning it takes two years to complete its life cycle when left undisturbed. It blooms dark-pink, prickly flowers, and puffy seed heads spread in the air for germination like dandelions.
\n\n\n\nSpray Texas thistle with post-emergent herbicide after it flowers, usually in early to late spring. Don’t worry if you have to come back and spray the pesky weed again. It can take several applications to get rid of the hardy biennial completely.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf biennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; prickly flowers, mildly toxic to humans and livestock
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nCommon chickweed appears during North Texas winters. Star-shaped white flowers bloom in low-growing mats of leaves. The broadleaf annual stands up to mowing well, making it difficult to get rid of.
\n\n\n\nIt is an edible weed and is often fed to poultry. Chickweed thrives in moist, shaded areas. Removal methods include pulling the weed by hand, being sure you get the root system and spraying pre-emergent herbicide in early spring.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, shady lawns and gardens, especially near buildings
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; edible but large quantities cause stomach irritation in humans
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass thrives in the Dallas summer. This annual grassy weed prefers dry soil. Its blades and leaf sheaths are covered by dense hairs that irritate the skin, and the high stalks steal valuable nutrients from your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt reproduces quickly and grows faster than your lawn. Crabgrass loves the sun and overtakes thin lawns. Think twice before cutting your grass extremely short to lessen your mowing frequency, as the fast-growing weed will overtake it quickly.
\n\n\n\nThe best method to get rid of crabgrass is to use a pre-emergent herbicide and maintain a healthy and dense lawn with routine fertilization and a consistent watering schedule.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Sparse, disturbed habitats like thin lawns, gardens, vacant lots, roads, and grass paths
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide, and routine lawn maintenance
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Creeping-Charlie.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Sturner / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCreeping Charlie, or ground ivy in Texas, is a broadleaf perennial herb. Its distinguishable scalloped leaves and clusters of purple flowers pop up in the spring and quickly spread, or creep, to form a dense green carpet.
\n\n\n\nThe minty-smelling weed loves unhealthy, patchy grass, low-fertility soils, and shady spots. The best way to unfriend this herb isn’t to ignore it. Instead, maintain your lawn’s pH levels by following a regular fertilization plan and use post-emergent broadleaf herbicide to eliminate the pest.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5-9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, shaded locations
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; toxic to horses in large quantities
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide, regular fertilization schedule
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Dallisgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nDallisgrass is a warm-season perennial grass that loves to invade Texas turfgrass, especially bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass. It is aggressive and difficult to control thanks to multiple reproductive methods, including seeds, rhizomes, and stolons. Dallisgrass has a clumped, circular appearance with rough edges.
\n\n\n\nProper lawn maintenance is the best line of defense against this aggressive grassy weed. It also responds well to hand pulling and pre-emergent herbicides in the spring.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; prefers moist disturbed habitats like lawns, pastures, paths, and sidewalks
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; non-toxic but susceptible to ergot fungus, which is toxic to livestock and horses
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Routine lawn maintenance, pre-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Dandelion.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDandelions seem like fun when you are a kid, but they turn into nightmares when you own your own lawn. These perennials behave like annuals and are a broadleaf weed. Dandelions pop up in the Dallas spring, beginning with their trademark bright yellow flowers before turning into light, puffy helicopter blade seeds that want nothing more than to be airborne.
\n\n\n\nDandelions have a taproot that grows vertically downward between 6 to 18 inches deep. Unfortunately, removing the entire dandelion by hand is next to impossible, and the best removal method is a broadleaf herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; prefer disturbed habitats like lawns, pastures, paths, and sidewalks
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; edible but may cause irritation in some people
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Hairy-Bittercress.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katja Schulz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHairy bittercress thrives in moist environments, popping up after early spring rains with blooms of tiny white flowers. The annual’s flowers turn into pods, dispersing seeds to propagate the plant. Post-emergent weed control is the best method to manage hairy bittercress before the seeds disperse.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Cultivated and open ground, rocks, and walls
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Henbit.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Miltos Gikas / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHenbit is a cool-season broadleaf annual with square branching stems. It is hairy with circular leaves and purple flowers. It spreads aggressively in the North Texas winters. Thankfully, it has shallow roots and responds well to hand pulling and pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-8
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; prefers disturbed lawns, pastures, gardens, nursery plots, and building edges
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Purslane.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Júlio Reis / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.5
\n\n\n\nPurslane is a low-growing succulent and broadleaf annual weed. It loves the rocky soil of North Texas, thriving in between cracks. It is adaptable and will easily encroach on turfgrass. Purslane is drought and heat-tolerant, surviving hot Dallas summers.
\n\n\n\nPurslane grows through spreading in a matted web. It has purple stems, alternating oval leaves, and yellow flowers. The best method to control purslane is hand pulling, ensuring you remove the whole root system.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Nutsedge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeevan Jose, Kerala, India / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nNutsedge, “the world’s worst weed,” is a perennial sedge weed with a triangular stem. It is drought-tolerant but prefers moist, undrained Texas soil. It grows faster than turfgrass and thrives in warm weather before going dormant in cool weather, only to pop up again when it warms back up.
\n\n\n\nTreat nutsedge with post-emergent herbicide and ensure your lawn is thick and healthy, being sure to fix drainage issues. Left unattended, the sedge perennial will thrive in bare spots, coming back year after year.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Sedge perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, poorly drained soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"picture](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Quackgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nQuackgrass sounds made up, but this perennial grass loves the Texas fall and winter seasons. It out-competes turfgrass and other weeds, spreading in large clumps with rhizomes. Quackgrass has coarse blades and resembles wheat.
\n\n\n\nPull quackgrass by hand, being sure to remove the roots. The perennial grass also responds well to spot treatment using post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Perennial grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist areas
\n\n\n\nDanger: Noxious; quickly overtakes fields and crops
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Spotted-Spurge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nEven though spotted spurge is a broadleaf annual, it is a nuisance. Like dandelions, this resilient weed has a long taproot which seemingly brings this zombie weed back from the dead. Spurge grows fast, and its tangled web of leaves spreads low. It loves dry, Texas soil and sun.
\n\n\n\nPull spotted spurge by hand, but be sure to wear gloves. The zombie plant exudes a skin-irritating milky sap. This annual responds well to pre-emergent herbicide, or you can opt for a post-emergent herbicide if your spurge has already bloomed.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; prefer sunny, dry, disturbed habitats like lawns, pastures, paths, and sidewalks
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; irritating milky sap
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent, post-emergent, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhite clover is another broadleaf perennial like dandelions that loves Dallas yards. It thrives in sparse turfgrass, blooming white flowers in the summer. Clover typically signals low nitrogen levels in your soil.
\n\n\n\nTo remove the pesky good-luck charm, douse it with iron-based herbicides. You can also weed them by hand, taking care to remove their root systems.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Broadleaf perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Nitrogen-poor, grassy habitats
\n\n\n\nDanger: Toxic; damaged leaf tissues release cyanide
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent, iron-based herbicide and hand removal
\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides control specific weeds or weed families.
Non-selective herbicides are typically more potent than selective herbicides. They work on many weeds, including grassy and broadleaf. However, they also wipe out good vegetation and turfgrass. These heavy-duty herbicides are best left to the professionals.
Perennial weeds are the toughest to control thanks to their underground reproductive systems, including rhizomes and tubers. These weeds regrow season after season. Perennial weeds include clover, spotted spurge, dandelion, crabgrass, and chickweed. The best method to prevent perennial weeds from returning is hand weeding, ensuring you remove the entire root system.
Weeds are a nuisance, and no matter how diligent you are, they will pop up in your yard. The best defense against an invasion is a healthy lawn. There are many low-maintenance landscaping options available for Dallas, including weed-controlling mulch, and be sure to check out our list of the best native plants that will thrive in your Texas landscape.
\n\n\n\nIf you need some help killing weeds before your next backyard barbecue, contact a Dallas lawn care pro today to keep your lawn healthy year-round.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Leonora (Ellie) Enking / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"14 Worst Lawn Weeds in Dallas, TX (and How to Get Rid of Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/1789c/Lawn-Weeds.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/107df/Lawn-Weeds.jpg 320w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/293e9/Lawn-Weeds.jpg 500w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/f2cbb/Lawn-Weeds.jpg 800w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/1789c/Lawn-Weeds.jpg 960w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/c26c2/Lawn-Weeds.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/1dd6e/Lawn-Weeds.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/67b76/Lawn-Weeds.webp 320w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/8df11/Lawn-Weeds.webp 500w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/98a65/Lawn-Weeds.webp 800w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/1dd6e/Lawn-Weeds.webp 960w,\n/static/a202eb421861797e466cba25e04ec42d/3cc96/Lawn-Weeds.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"14 Worst Lawn Weeds in Dallas, TX (and How to Get Rid of Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Weeds are common in Dallas thanks to the Texas sun and warm weather. Get rid of them with a few simple tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"37dc5c64-df1b-5279-9f8b-9bc31b4505f9","slug":"best-trees-for-utah","path":"/lawn-care/ut/best-trees-for-utah/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Judith Gallova","id":"8e48e42f-071a-5523-a889-6dab4c49dd54","path":"/author/judith-gallova/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/537ca09b018493e40c3fb0df17ebacbe?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"65f3de7c-13d9-573a-b422-7e8ea533aaa7","name":"Utah","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ut/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2023","excerpt":"Whether you want a bit of shade to protect you from Utah’s scorching sun or you want to provide food and habitat for local wildlife, there are many reasons to plant a tree. But with Utah’s unpredictable climate, which likes to fluctuate between hot summers and freezing winters, it’s wise to know the best trees […]
\n","content":"\nWhether you want a bit of shade to protect you from Utah’s scorching sun or you want to provide food and habitat for local wildlife, there are many reasons to plant a tree. But with Utah’s unpredictable climate, which likes to fluctuate between hot summers and freezing winters, it’s wise to know the best trees for your Utah landscape.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Apples](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Apple-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Famartin / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want a tree that looks great and produces delicious, nourishing snacks, why not plant an apple tree? There are various apple tree cultivars out there, and most grow better when another variety is planted nearby; so if you feel up to it, plant a couple. Standard apple trees may live for more than 50 years.
\n\n\n\nTake note that they’re also likely to attract birds and a variety of animals to your yard to snack, so consider humane ways to keep them off your apples.
\n\n\n\nApple trees are versatile, don’t need as much care as other fruit trees, and usually grow well in Utah. So if you want to enjoy fresh, organic apples straight from your backyard, planting an apple tree may be a great idea.
\n\n\n\nThe tree doesn’t have serious hazards, but apples’ stems, leaves, and seeds shouldn’t be eaten, as they’re toxic.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 9
Growing conditions: Grows well in well-drained, moist soil, but occasional dryness is fine; its soil texture should be clay, loam, or sand
Sunlight: Either full sun or a little shade, but at least 8 hours of sun per day
Mature size: 15 to 30 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic stems, leaves, and seeds
![\"Blue](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blue-Spruce.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Qirille / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBlue spruce is a stunning, coniferous evergreen tree that may live for over 600 years. Though it’s also commonly called Colorado blue spruce, the tree is also native to the Beehive State; in fact, it’s Utah’s state tree. Because it’s a native, it’s well accustomed to Utah’s climate, easy to care for, and beneficial for wildlife. As one of the most popular evergreens, it will add a touch of beauty and elegance to your landscape.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 2 to 7
Growing conditions: Needs normal moisture, but tolerates floods and drought to an extent; adaptable; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, rich, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: Should get full sun with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 50 to 75 feet
Leaf retention: Evergreen
Flowering?: No
Potential hazards: None known, but caution is always advised
\n\n\n\n![\"Bur](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bur-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Justin Meissen from St Paul, United States / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBur oak provides a great deal of shade with its crown, which often becomes wider than the tree’s height. It tolerates a variety of moisture and soil conditions but thrives in full sun. With a lifespan of over 300 years, bur oak may adorn your yard for generations. It’s also great for local wildlife such as butterflies, moths, beetles, treehoppers, and more.
\n\n\n\nTake note that all parts of the tree, including acorns, are toxic for you and your pets. However, the acorns are safe to eat for some birds and other wildlife, so you can provide them with food by planting the tree.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Needs moderate moisture but tolerates drought to an extent; grows in acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils.
Sunlight: Prefers full sun with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily
Mature size: 50 to 80 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Hot](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hot-Wings-Maple.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Le.Loup.Gris / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHot wings maple, also known as Tatarian maple, is a showy tree that will make a fun addition to your Utah yard. Hot wing maple’s fragrant spring blossoms are followed by double samaras (wing trees) that fall from the tree, oftentimes called “spinners” or “helicopters.”
\n\n\n\nAlthough no hot wings actually grow on this tree, it will brighten your yard with its vibrant red foliage and provide some shade during summer barbecues. The tree’s size makes it perfect for smaller landscapes. It may live for over 70 years.
\n\n\n\nThough the tree poses no known hazards, be sure not to confuse your hot wings maple for a red maple or another toxic tree.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Tolerates various soil conditions and drought
Sunlight: Can grow in either full or partial sun
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: None known, but practice caution; be sure not to confuse your hot wings maple for red maple or another toxic tree
![\"Japanese](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Cherry-Blossom-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kurt Kaiser / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJapanese cherry blossom tree, also known as Kanzan tree, features stunning double pink blossoms that bloom in the spring. They also display stunning fall foliage. The tree is shaped like a vase, and once it matures, its crown is often wider than the tree is high. Though it sometimes grows quite tall, it can also be planted as a bonsai tree.
\n\n\n\nAlthough Japanese cherry blossom tree doesn’t tolerate drought as well as some other trees, it can still handle mildly dry conditions. However, if you want the tree to thrive, you should keep its soil moist. This beautiful tree usually lives for between 15 and 25 years, but its numerous benefits make it well worth planting in your yard.
\n\n\n\nTake note that the tree doesn’t bear fruits, and its leaves, stems, and seeds are toxic.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Growing conditions: Prefers moist conditions but tolerates dry weather to an extent; grows in acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy, well-drained, wet and clay soils.
Sunlight: Should grow in full sun, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 30 to 40 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Northern](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Northern-Red-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katrin Schneider, korina.info – CC-BY-SA-4.0 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor a pop of color during the fall months, consider planting the Northern red oak. This beautiful tree grows a dense crown, perfect for providing shade and improving your home’s curb appeal. It usually lives up to 300 years, although some northern red oaks have lived up to as many as 500 years.
\n\n\n\nIt tolerates a variety of conditions, such as compacted soil, pollution, and drought, but prefers moist soil and lots of sunlight. While acorns are toxic for some animals, birds and rodents like to feast on them.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
Growing conditions: Prefers moisture, but can handle some drought; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: should grow in full sun, with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 60 to 75 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Peach](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Peach-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want a tree that bears juicy, delicious fruit, another option is the peach tree. The peach tree thrives in Utah’s hot days and cold nights during the growing season, looks beautiful year-round, and has many available cultivars. It also attracts butterflies, birds, and even squirrels and raccoons. If you don’t want your peaches to be snacked on that much, you can consider a humane way to protect your peach tree.
\n\n\n\nPeach and nectarine trees usually live about 12 years. To keep your peach tree healthy and bearing delicious fruit, make sure to take proper care of it, prune it, and protect it from diseases and insect pests.
\n\n\n\nTake note not to eat the seeds and wilted leaves, as they’re poisonous.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9
Growing conditions: Grows well in well-drained, moist soil; its soil texture should be clay, loam, or sand.
Sunlight: Should get full sun, with at least 6 hours of sun per day
Mature size: 15 to 25 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic seeds and wilted leaves
\n\n\n\n![\"Pinyon](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pinyon-Pine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: S. Rae / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre you looking for year-round green foliage? Pinyon pine is one of the most drought-tolerant evergreens, making it a great fit for Utah’s arid climate. What’s more, the tree yields delicious and healthy pine nuts that can be consumed raw or toasted.
\n\n\n\nRemarkably, pinyon pine may live as long as 1,000 years. It’s somewhat oval-shaped when young and becomes more open as it ages. If you want to provide local wildlife with food, you’ll be glad to know that the tree attracts birds and squirrels.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 8
Growing conditions: Best not to irrigate once established; should get well-drained soil; can grow on dry, poor, or alkaline soils, but not wet soils; drought-tolerant.
Sunlight: Should get at least 6 hours of sunlight per day
Mature size: 25 to 50 feet
Leaf retention: Evergreen
Flowering: No
Potential hazards: None known for humans or pets, but caution is always advised
![\"Rose](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rose-of-Sharon.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eric Kounce TexasRaiser / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRose of Sharon is a perennial plant that yields beautiful blossoms year after year for 20 to 30 years. The blossoms’ colors include white, blue, lavender, pink, and red, and sometimes they’re even combined. Moreover, rose of Sharon is also drought-tolerant and versatile, making it a great addition to your Utah landscape. It also attracts wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nTake caution, though; this type of hibiscus is reported to be toxic to pets.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 5 to 9
Growing conditions: If in full or partial sun, tolerates various soil temperatures, moisture conditions, and PH, but needs moisture and protection during midday and afternoon sunshine.
Sunlight: Prefers at least 4 hours of sunlight per day; it also needs a little pruning and shaping
Mature size: 8 to 12 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Star](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Star-Magnolia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Photo: Myrabella / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe showy star magnolia’s striking, fragrant blossoms stand out in contrast to its dark green leaves, making it a beautiful addition to any landscape. A healthy star magnolia may live for as long as 120 years. It also provides food and shelter for local wildlife.
\n\n\n\nThe tree is easy to maintain and resistant to Utah’s varying temperatures. Although it’s quite versatile, you’re more likely to enjoy more of star magnolia’s magnificent flowers if you plant it in full sun.
\n\n\n\nThe tree is generally seen as non-toxic, but some sources report that it may have some poison characteristics; caution is always advised.
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zones: 4 to 9
Growing conditions: Withstands some flooding and drought; grows in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils.
Sunlight: Needs full sun and partial shade with at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day; trees exposed to full sun flower better
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet
Leaf retention: Deciduous
Flowering: Yes
Potential hazards: Most sources report that star magnolia has no toxic effects, but a few sources claim they may have some poison characteristics; caution is always advised
Caring for your tree is important to help it thrive in your landscape. As such, you should research the specific needs of your tree, and make sure that you provide it with the right maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few tips to make your Utah tree thrive:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve planted your tree, make sure you give it regular checkups to ensure its health and growth. Be sure to check all parts of the tree and monitor its annual growth.
\n\n\n\nAccording to Salt Lake City Public Lands Department, new trees typically need to be watered 1 to 2 times per week. In summer, you should increase the frequency to 3 to 4 times per week.
According to the University of Maryland, most trees shouldn’t need fertilizer, especially when they’ve become mature. It’s definitely better to avoid fertilizing at planting time because it can stunt growth. You should also certainly not use fertilizer if the tree has recently suffered root damage.
If you want to plant a fruit tree, the apple tree is among the easiest to grow. It’s relatively low maintenance and a great way to start your fruit tree growing journey.
As we’ve discussed, a lot goes into making sure that your fruit tree thrives, but there are some things you can do to make tree care easier. For example, you can choose a low-maintenance tree species that won’t need as much care and attention as other kinds of trees.
\n\n\n\nTo make it easier to care for your whole yard, consider xeriscaping techniques, hardscapes, and planting low-maintenance grass and plants. If you live in Salt Lake City, be sure to check out our Salt Lake City grasses guide. ****
\n\n\n\nHowever, if you’d like some extra help with caring for your Utah yard and trees, be sure to contact one of WikiLawn’s pros in Utah.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Capital of Utah / Raman Patel / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
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