![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatch-Your-Lawn.jpg\")
The `Boro shares its parks and restaurants with 25,000 Middle Tennessee State University students for most of the year. Situated 35 miles southeast of downtown Nashville, Murfreesboro’s warmer spring temperatures, ranging from 57 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit, bring students and residents outdoors. Execute our 10 spring lawn care tips and take advantage of the pleasant […]
\n","content":"\nThe `Boro shares its parks and restaurants with 25,000 Middle Tennessee State University students for most of the year. Situated 35 miles southeast of downtown Nashville, Murfreesboro’s warmer spring temperatures, ranging from 57 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit, bring students and residents outdoors. Execute our 10 spring lawn care tips and take advantage of the pleasant weather to prepare your yard for the humid summer just around the corner.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTennessee is in the transition zone, and both cool and warm-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Spring in Murfreesboro hits the sweet spot between not too hot and not too cold. Average March temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit gradually increase to 80 degrees by May, setting off the active growing season for many Tennessee native plants and grasses.
\n\n\n\nTennesseeans care for their warm or cool-season grasses from March to May, hoping to encourage fresh growth before the heat and humidity take over in June. Spring lawn care is more than mowing your lawn and setting the timer on your irrigation system. As your yard goes through its most active growing season, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots. With the proper spring maintenance plan, your lawn will be ready to take on the Tennessee summer.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Rawpixel
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro winters are short, cold, and very wet, causing warm-season grass cultivars and even some cool-season cultivars to go dormant and develop thatch. Thatch is the tight layer of dead grass intertwined with living grass blades and roots that accumulates just above your soil level and below eye line visibility. A thin layer of thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nWatch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Aim to dethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately.
\n\n\n\nTennessee warm-season grass cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass actively grow in late spring and summer. Cool-season varieties such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their green-up phases in early spring and again in the fall. It is important to understand your grass variety. Dethatch your warm-season lawn in mid-spring to early summer and save your cool-season cultivar dethatching session for fall.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro receives around 54 inches of rain per year, well over the national average of 38 inches. Springtime is notoriously wet in the `Boro with precipitation occurring in 30% of the days. Aeration is a common method to introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. There are two types of common aeration: spike aeration and core aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass, and early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators create small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators remove plugs of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, creating airflow, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/CSIRO_ScienceImage_1739_Testing_soil_pH.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nPlants and turfgrasses growing in loam soil require regular fertilization and irrigation. Spring soil preparation is crucial to the success of your Murfreesboro landscape. Proper preparation provides nutrients for your grass to thrive, even in the deficient soils of middle Tennessee. Residents should send in a soil sample for testing in March or September.
\n\n\n\nMail in a one-cup sample, collected and combined from different areas of your lawn, to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances and nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\nHealthy lawns resist insects, weeds, and diseases, and taller grass blades develop deeper roots and a dense appearance. Mowing is necessary for maintenance, but it stresses your turfgrass, leaving it more susceptible to pests, drought, and sunscald. Murfreesboro’s warm, wet springs kick-start the active growing season for most plants and warm-season turfgrasses in March.
\n\n\n\nYour grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height. To avoid injuring your lawn, never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade regardless of your cultivar. and always cut less, more often. You should mow weekly during the active growing season and aim to mow every two weeks during your turfgrass’ off-season.
\n\n\n\nAlways mow within the recommended range for your grass type and leave clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
Bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass are all low-maintenance, warm-season cultivars that go dormant during Murfreesboro’s cold winter months. Growth peaks in summer, but the active growing season begins in late spring. Aim to mow every seven to 10 days to maintain the recommended mowing height for your cultivar and encourage deeper roots and a more dense and resilient turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee turfgrasses include fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Unlike their warm-season counterparts, these cultivars remain green through most winter months but can go dormant during hot, dry months in the summer.
\n\n\n\nActive growth for cool-season varieties peaks in the early spring and fall. Mow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during early spring. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nUnless your lawn is brand new, all grass varieties respond well to the typical conditions of a Murfreesboro spring. The best watering method for Tennessee turfgrasses is as needed early in the morning, starting in May. It is true what they say about April showers bringing May flowers. April in the `Boro is wet, typically providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all varieties twice per week, aiming for one-half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"Weed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Contorl-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s subtropical climate and wet spring weather create the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health and maintenance plan. They thrive in low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning damaged turf.
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your grass and spread pests and diseases. The best control and prevention method is routine maintenance, coupled with supplemental chemical methods like post-emergent herbicides and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides minimize the number of weeds in your yard by killing seeds before germination. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in mid-March when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit to control grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nLook for solutions containing prodiamine, dithiopyr, benefin, or pendimethalin. Wait 60 days and apply a second application of pre-emergent herbicide in mid to late May.
\n\n\n\nCommon grassy weeds in Murfreesboro include:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides target annual and perennial broadleaf weeds, disrupting their growth. Use these herbicides year-round to target weeds you can see.
\n\n\n\nDo not use post-emergent herbicides if temperatures rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or if your lawn is moisture stressed. Additionally, be sure to wait a few days after a fresh mow before applying chemical treatments.
\n\n\n\nCommon perennial and annual broadleaf weeds include:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/iStock-1351445035-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Istock
\n\n\n\nDifferent insects invade particular grass cultivars at different times. The most common Murfreesboro springtime pests include chinch bugs, billbugs, and sod webworms.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs affect most Tennessee turfgrasses. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity. These foliage-seeking insects suck vital plant juices from your turfgrass until fall with peak activity occurring in March or April.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nThere are several species of billbugs affecting Tennessee turfgrasses. Hunting billbugs are a problem for homeowners with Zoysiagrass and centipedegrass, while bluegrass billbugs wreak havoc on Kentucky bluegrass. Watch for irregular-shaped patches of dead turf. Like chinch bugs, billbugs feed on the roots of turfgrasses, sucking vital nutrients from the plant.
\n\n\n\nInfestations are often misdiagnosed as dormancy in middle Tennessee, but billbug activity peaks in the late spring and lasts through summer. Treat billbugs with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin, beta-cyfluthrin, or imidacloprid.
\n\n\n\nSod webworms are the nocturnal larvae of lawn moths. These pests feed on grass blades and create tunnels just below your lawn’s surface. Sod webworms attack most grass cultivars, preferring fescues and bluegrass. Watch for small brown spots of dead turfgrass that rapidly increase in size during dry spells. Treat sod webworms with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Diseases.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kris Lord / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLawn diseases and fungi love Tennessee’s subtropical climate. The best defense against these lawn invaders is routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization for a healthy and dense lawn. Some of the most common diseases affecting Murfreesboro turfgrasses are large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, and rust.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus affecting many Tennessee turfgrasses, including ryegrass, tall fescue, and bermudagrass. The fungus typically occurs in April or May and lasts through the end of summer in cool-season cultivars. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter.
\n\n\n\nMost large patch infestations do not respond to fungicide applications. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage and air movement. Monitor patches and limit fertilization in affected areas. Avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. It is caused by a fungus living in Tennessee soils. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins in spring through fall.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during dry periods, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots. Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms. Watch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods.
\n\n\n\nNematode populations peak in fall but remain a problem for some homeowners in the spring, and nematodes need moisture to survive. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nPowdery mildew affects Kentucky bluegrass in the cool, wet months of early spring. This fungus produces a white or gray powdery growth on grass blades. Watch for yellow areas of dying turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat powdery mildew with proper lawn maintenance and fungicide applications. Remove thatch, avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active, and monitor and fix drainage issues. Avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus active in spring through fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf. Rust affects bluegrass, ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat this turfgrass disease using a fungicide, and prevent the fungus with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions.
\n\n\n\nSoil-dwelling fungus, spring dead spot affects Murfreesboro bermudagrass. Keep an eye out for circular patches of dead grass ranging in diameter from 6 inches to several feet. The easiest way to spot spring dead spot is to monitor your lawn during its active growth phase in May. Areas affected by spring dead spot will not go through the growth process.
\n\n\n\nTreat spring dead spot by removing thatch and aggressively aerating affected areas to relieve soil compaction and increase airflow.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time to seed your warm-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while fall is the best time to seed cool-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Bermudagrass and centipedegrass are low-maintenance, warm-season cultivars that respond well to spring overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Tennessee lawn in May. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet for bermudagrass and 4 ounces per 1,000 square feet for centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass does not respond to overseeding. Instead, plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart and water well daily. Keep crabgrass at bay by applying a root-safe pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spreading-fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply fertilizer to your Murfreesboro turfgrass is March or April, depending on your grass type. Fertilizer promotes healthy growth. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your turfgrass cultivar and your unique soil sample analysis results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 15-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that Tennessee’s soil can be high in phosphorus and potassium. It is often unnecessary to apply fertilizer containing one or both of these chemicals. Instead, apply straight nitrogen depending on your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nWarm season grasses such as bermudagrass, centipedegrass and Zoysiagrass only need one spring fertilizer application. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around April 15, but keep in mind that shaded grass requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass need two spring fertilizer applications to prepare the turfgrasses for the hot summer temperatures. Aim to apply 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around March 15. Apply a second round of fertilizer around April 15.
\n\n\n\nMature centipedegrass has low nitrogen requirements. Always follow the amendment recommendations from your soil sample test results. Centipedegrass does not respond well to overfertilization, and nitrogen applications are not typically necessary. High nitrogen levels lead to centipedegrass decline, increased insect activity, and thatch accumulation.
\n\n\n\nUse sprinklers or an automatic irrigation system to apply water in 10- to 20-minute segments, once per day, until the seeds have germinated. The germination process typically takes 10 to 14 days in Tennessee. Be sure to skip watering sessions if it rains.
You should stop fertilizing your lawn at least one month before overseeding to give the new seeds a chance to germinate and grow without struggling against actively growing grass.
Additionally, you can apply fertilizer after overseeding, which is the preferred method. Apply a slow-release fertilizer immediately after overseeding or wait two to three weeks and apply a fast-release fertilizer to your newly seeded lawn.
Overwatering your turfgrass stresses your lawn, leading to increased pests and diseases. Watch for these signs you are overwatering your turfgrass:
• Thick layer of thatch over ¾ inch thick
• Fungus growth including mushrooms
• Increased weed growth, including crabgrass and nutsedge
• Signs of pest activity
• Spongy grass and footprint indents
• Pooling water and increased runoff
Murfreesboro homeowners love three things: hitting the trails outdoors, the MTSU Raiders, and donuts. With the proper spring lawn care schedule and our fall lawn care checklist, you can get your lawn ready for summer or winter and save yourself time so you can get up early to grab your donut before spending the day outdoors.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help identifying a pest or lawn disease, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your landscape recover and establish deep southern roots.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Benjamine House-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"10 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.675977653631285,"src":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1789c/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg","srcSet":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/107df/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 320w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/293e9/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 500w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/f2cbb/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 800w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1789c/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 960w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/c26c2/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1dd6e/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/67b76/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 320w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/8df11/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 500w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/98a65/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 800w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1dd6e/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 960w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/3cc96/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"10 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 10 valuable tips for maintaining a green spring lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the humid Tennessee summers."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"7b5a68ed-1cba-5219-8ff1-1581ee03aef7","slug":"best-native-plants-durham","path":"/lawn-care/nc/durham/best-native-plants-durham/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Judith Gallova","id":"8e48e42f-071a-5523-a889-6dab4c49dd54","path":"/author/judith-gallova/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/537ca09b018493e40c3fb0df17ebacbe?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"3c4f0f7e-d959-5ea1-9a84-f914bbb6828f","name":"Durham","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/durham/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0946c7b5-fa0e-522f-b876-ff6b33c2d842","name":"North Carolina","count":17,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/"}],"date":"April 11th, 2023","excerpt":"You can admire Durham’s captivating native plants in local forests and parks, but why not also grow them in your own yard? Not only will they be a beautiful addition to your property, but they’re good for the environment and easier to care for than non-natives. Read on to find out more about native plants […]
\n","content":"\nYou can admire Durham’s captivating native plants in local forests and parks, but why not also grow them in your own yard? Not only will they be a beautiful addition to your property, but they’re good for the environment and easier to care for than non-natives.
\n\n\n\nRead on to find out more about native plants that work well in your Durham yard.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t already have native plants growing in your garden, it’s time to make the switch. Native plants are adapted to your local climate and soil, and they’re beneficial in numerous ways. For example:
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Highbush_blueberries.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ryjial Christianson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAs you may have guessed, the highbush blueberry isn’t just a feast for the eyes. The plant’s bell-shaped blossoms give way to delicious blueberries that are perfect for snacking. Moreover, the highbush blueberry provides food for wildlife. In fact, watch out; once your blueberries ripen, birds may like them so much that you need to cover them with netting.
\n\n\n\nBlueberries take about 6 to 8 years to fully mature, but you can plant different cultivars together to increase your berry yield. If you want optimal growth, use acidic soil and remove spent flowers regularly. Starting in the third year after planting, prune your blueberry plant as needed. Laying organic mulch is also beneficial for your highbush blueberries to grow healthy.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Edible shrub
Hardiness zones: 3 to 8
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: High (1 inch of water per week)
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy; acidic, organically rich, well-drained, medium to wet
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 3 to 12 feet
Potential hazards: None known
![\"3,4](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3890892940_425fc87659_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: RHal4D / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nRiver birch, also called water birch, black birch, and red birch, can be a beautiful addition to your landscape the whole year round. This tree can reach 60 feet at maturity, and, because it naturally grows along riverbanks, it thrives in wet weather. However, it handles periods of drought relatively well, too.
\n\n\n\nYou can help your river birch tree stay hydrated by giving it a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch. The best time to trim the tree is in late spring or early fall. Don’t prune in spring when its sap is running.
\n\n\n\nNote that the tree has toxic effects if any part of it is consumed.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
Hardiness zones: 4 to 9
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, average, medium to wet, moist, acidic, fertile; tolerates drier soils and poor drainage
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 30 to 60 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Red_maple_leaves.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Heng Wang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe red maple is notorious for its samaras, sometimes called “helicopter seeds.” These winged seeds spin when they fall from the tree, creating a fun and unique display. The tree is also the first to bloom in spring and change color in the fall, making it a showy addition to your yard throughout the year.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it will take a number of years, the tree can grow up to as high as 120 feet in full sun or partial shade. The tree tolerates many kinds of soil, but to retain moisture and keep your red maple healthy, you should lay a layer of mulch.
\n\n\n\nHowever, take note that the red maple is highly toxic to humans and animals, especially its leaves and bark. If you have children or pets, make sure they don’t ingest any part of the tree.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
Hardiness zones: 2 to 9
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, average, medium to wet, well-drained; tolerant of various soils but prefers moist, slightly acidic soils
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 40 to 120 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"bright](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Rhododendron_atlanticum_-_Rendeux_9c_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe coastal azalea forms a dense hedge, creating privacy and curb appeal. It has fragrant flowers that are a magnet for butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. Depending on the variety and your soil type, your coastal azalea may grow up to 8 feet tall, but it usually grows up to 2 to 3 feet tall.
\n\n\n\nYou should ideally provide your azalea with consistent moisture, but make sure that your soil is well-draining to avoid root rot. Because most of Durham has clay-heavy Utisol soil, it’s advisable to plant your azalea in a raised flower bed.
\n\n\n\nTo keep your azalea looking its best, clip off its spent flower clusters after bloom. Mulching can help the soil retain moisture and manage its temperature. Full sun exposure can damage the plant, so make sure you provide it with the right amount of shade.
\n\n\n\nTake note: azaleas are severely toxic. Don’t eat any part of the plant, and make sure children and pets stay away from it.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering shrub
Hardiness zones: 1 to 8 (some may grow shorter, depending on variety and soil type)
Sun: Partial shade
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Light, acidic, sandy, well-drained; tolerates well-drained humusy loams
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 6 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8173412518_9b3cd7aa35_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andrey Zharkikh / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLance-leaved coreopsis, also called tickseed, is a lovely yellow wildflower that can grow up to 2 feet even in bare areas. It doesn’t only look appealing to the human eye but also attracts pollinators and birds.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial wildflower is quite durable and resists heat, drought, and humidity. Because the plant spreads so easily, make sure to contain it so that it doesn’t overtake your garden. On the other hand, if you want to encourage new blooms, you should deadhead your lance-leaved coreopsis flowers with scissors.
\n\n\n\nThere are various plants in the Coreopsis species, and they’re generally seen as non-toxic. However, there isn’t a lot of data about the toxicity of lance-leaved coreopsis in particular, and there are some reports of toxicity to livestock Because the plant may have toxic effects, it’s always better to be cautious.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Wildflower
Hardiness zones: 4 to 9
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Loamy, sandy, dry to medium moisture, well-drained; ideally poor, sandy or rocky soils
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 1 to 3 feet
Potential hazards: Some reports of toxicity
![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3972750375_f55529b403_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Pavelka / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAre you looking to add a pop of color to your yard? Consider planting the American beautyberry, which produces clusters of bright purple berries in the fall. The berries are not only beautiful but also a valuable food source for birds during the winter months. Moreover, the American beautyberry can even act as a natural mosquito repellant.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for a low-maintenance option, you’ll be glad to find out that this shrub is relatively easy to care for. The American beautyberry doesn’t have any big problems with pests, and it can also handle some drought, though too much of it could be a problem.
\n\n\n\nYou may need to prune your American beautyberry in winter if you want to encourage more growth. Also, make sure to remove dead wood in spring. The plant thrives in full sun but can tolerate light shade.
\n\n\n\nAmerican beautyberry is listed as non-toxic to humans on calpoison.org. Its berries can even be made into jelly. However, some sources report that they may have mildly toxic effects. To find out more information, you can discuss any dietary changes with a medical professional. Because there’s a lack of data about the plant’s toxicity to domestic animals, you should keep them from eating it.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
Hardiness zones: 6 to 10
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Low
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, moist, well-draining, rich in organic matter; tolerant of various soil types as long as it gets good drainage
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 3 to 8 feet
Potential hazards: Mild toxic effects reported; a lack of data regarding toxicity to pets
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/winter-berry-tree-background.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nIf you want to add a bit of color to your lawn through the winter, the winterberry holly, also known as the black alder, is a fitting choice. The plant features red berries throughout the winter and also provides food and shelter for birds and pollinators in the summer.
\n\n\n\nWhile it can grow in the shade, this shrub also tolerates heat and drought. It handles wet, swampy, or boggy conditions and both light and heavy soils. Its preference is, however, for moist, organic, acidic soils. Moreover, the winterberry holly is susceptible to some plant diseases, so make sure that you address any signs of infection promptly.
\n\n\n\nTake note that although the plant provides food for wildlife, it’s toxic to humans, domestic animals, and livestock, including dogs, cats, and horses.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree or large shrub
Hardiness zones: 3 to 9
Sun: Full sun, partial shade, deep shade
Water needs: Moderate
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, average, medium to wet soils; ideally moist, organic and acidic soils
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 3 to 15 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/766px-Heartleaf_aster_1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Nadiatalent / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe heart-leaved aster is also called the heart-leaved American aster and blue wood aster. It produces delicate blue-purple wildflowers that attract butterflies and bees.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for an easy-care plant, the heart-leaved aster is a great option. It’s resilient and low-maintenance, and can thrive in partial shade. Provide it with good air circulation to avoid diseases.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t deadhead your heart-leaved aster, it’s likely to self-seed. Moreover, you should pinch back stems a number of times before mid-July if you want to control the plant’s look and height. If you do this, you may not need to stake the plant.
\n\n\n\nLittle is known about the hazards of the heart-leaved aster. However, the aster species includes many different types of plants, some of which are severely toxic, so practice caution.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herb
Hardiness zones: 3 to 8
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Low
Soil: Loamy, sandy, average, well-drained; ideally rich and dry to moist (not too moist)
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: Typically 2 to 5 feet; occasionally can grow to 6 feet
Potential hazards: None known due to a lack of data; other plants of the species are highly toxic, so practice caution
![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3912256151_865e2a4b51_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you want to add a dash of vibrance to your landscape, you can consider switchgrass. Not only can it grow quite tall, but it stands out with its colorful foliage.
\n\n\n\nThe first shoots of this tall grass emerge in the summer and brighten up the space with a burst of green. As fall approaches, it turns red and purple. Finally, switchgrass stays yellow throughout the winter.
\n\n\n\nWhile this ornamental grass prefers moist, clay, or sandy soils, it can grow in a variety of soils. Overly rich soils may cause the grass to flop. You should cut your switchgrass clumps back between late winter and early spring.
\n\n\n\nSwitchgrass is also a source of food for pollinators and birds. However, it’s toxic to some animals, so be cautious with your pets.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Ornamental grass
Hardiness zones: 5 to 9
Sun: Full sun, partial shade
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Clay, loamy, sandy, average, medium to wet; prefers moist clay or sandy soil; can tolerate periods of drought and flooding
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 3 to 6 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic to some animals
![\"Orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/35788220756_6c924b709e_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nButterfly weed is also known as orange milkweed. The milkweed family is the only host plant for monarch caterpillars as well as a delicious food source for adult butterflies. Apart from butterflies, hummingbirds also like to snack on butterfly weed’s nectar.
\n\n\n\nApart from being an important natural food for wildlife, butterfly weed can also look amazing on your lawn. It may take up to 2 or 3 years to establish, but after that, you’ll get a yearly display of bright orange flowers.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to caring for your butterfly weed, think about the right spot to plant it. It should stay in its place once established and not be transplanted because of its deep taproot. To thrive, it should grow in full sun. It’s drought tolerant, so warm summer weather shouldn’t pose a problem. If you don’t want your butterfly weed to self-seed, remove seed pods before they split open.
\n\n\n\nTake caution; butterfly weed is a toxic plant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herb
Hardiness zones: 4 to 10
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: Low
Soil: Sandy, poor, average, dry to medium, well-drained
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 1 to 2 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/47964802722_6865f7b1d4_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: peganum / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nGreen and gold has delicate, golden-yellow flowers that bloom in the spring and summer. Don’t let its outward appearance fool you, though. This evergreen ground cover is resilient and can withstand weeds and diseases. Moreover, it also attracts songbirds and pollinators, including bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nThis ground cover is also perfect for filling in gaps between other plants in your garden because it grows in shady areas. If your turfgrass can’t handle the shade, green and gold is a great option to make your lawn look complete and lush. Just watch out for mildew and contain the plant by removing spent flower stems.
\n\n\n\nGreen and gold has no known toxic effects, but it isn’t confirmed to be non-toxic either, so always proceed with caution.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Ground cover
Hardiness zones: 5 to 9
Sun: Partial shade, deep shade; tolerates full sun only if it grows in consistently moist soils
Water needs: Medium
Soil: Loamy, medium moisture, average, well-drained; ideally moist, acidic, rich with organic matter
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 1 to 2 inches
Potential hazards: None known (lack of data)
Each Durham native has its own unique characteristics. Make sure you consider the unique traits of the plant, such as soil needs, shade needs, and potential hazards, before you pick the plants for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nAlso, take note that just because a plant doesn’t have known hazards doesn’t mean it’s completely safe, so be careful and keep an eye on children and pets around all plants. If you want to know about the medicinal or edible uses of any plant, consult a medical professional.
\n\n\n\nOne more important thing to consider is your area’s hardiness zone. Durham’s hardiness zone is 7b, which means its minimum temperatures are between 5 and 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Any plants you get need to match this hardiness zone to handle Durham’s coldest weather conditions. But there’s no cause for concern; all the plants in this article are a good fit for Durham’s climate.
\n\n\n\nDurham has a number of stunning native plants. But if you spot any of them in nature, don’t bring them home. Moving plants out of their natural habitat can disrupt the ecosystem and harm wildlife. Instead, get your plants ethically from local nurseries.
\n\n\n\nExamples of Durham nurseries are:
\n\n\n\nOnce you pick your natives, you’re one step closer to establishing a beautiful landscape, but you’re not done just yet. Don’t forget to also pick the right grass type. and consider all the maintenance work you’ll need to do throughout the year.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to provide your landscape with the right care, consider hiring one of WikiLawn’s local pros who can handle it for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Red maple / David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"11 Native Plants That Will Make Your Durham, NC, Yard Pop","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/1789c/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg","srcSet":"/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/107df/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg 320w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/293e9/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg 500w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/f2cbb/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg 800w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/1789c/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg 960w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/c26c2/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/1dd6e/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/67b76/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp 320w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/8df11/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp 500w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/98a65/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp 800w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/1dd6e/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp 960w,\n/static/86d3ab1550ff364f40eb24296028acc5/3cc96/Acer_rubrum_Red_Sunset_9zz.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Native Plants That Will Make Your Durham, NC, Yard Pop | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When it comes to Durham grass types, there are a variety of options. Let’s see which ones are right for your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"9b773e35-df5b-51f7-8c97-481acd7b2771","slug":"how-to-design-a-rain-garden-in-austin-texas","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/how-to-design-a-rain-garden-in-austin-texas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"February 21st, 2019","excerpt":"Austin, Texas is definitely one of those cities that sticks with you no matter the length of time you spend there. From the eclectic collection of shops, amazing food down every main street and back ally, or the legendary Texas hospitality and charm, Austin really lives up to the hype of its tongue in cheek […]
\n","content":"\nAustin, Texas is definitely one of those cities that sticks with you no matter the length of time you spend there. From the eclectic collection of shops, amazing food down every main street and back ally, or the legendary Texas hospitality and charm, Austin really lives up to the hype of its tongue in cheek motto ‘Keep Austin Weird’ in more ways than are obvious to the casual observer. Being a center for creative design and out of the box thinking, Austinites have embraced the idea of getting innovative when it comes to the way they view landscaping and water management. One of these ways is with the healthy use of Rain Gardens. Although the use of rain gardens, bioswales, and other forms of using the landscape to manage rainwater have gained in popularity in the past years, it is good to know the basic fundamentals of what makes for a successful rain garden that can withstand the extremes of the Central Texas climate.
A Solid Foundation. Let’s start by defining what exactly is a rain garden. There are lots of terms and descriptors used to categorize these very similar landscape applications, but they all differ from each other in one way or another. A rain garden is perhaps the simplest of them all. A rain garden is purely an area of planting that you install in a low spot in your landscape. Rain gardens should be designed to hold water for only a brief period of time after a storm, with water quickly infiltrating back into the ground.
\n\n\n\nUnlike a pond or wetland, rain gardens should not generally be more than a foot deep at any given point and should not use any sort of liner. The actual depth and size of your rain garden will vary depending upon how much rainfall you need to collect from your roof or other impervious surfaces.
\n\n\n\nBelow are examples of a rain garden in a dry state versus a wet state.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/IZtgwprugCTW6rZfud7Qw5dmJ2qoRXmqzN2xAmCUBS8XmBegxcU4sqHmdh7wvr437JxtdLLoqGjtLrWGp4_rbPHdII_qjLYnXuLQjnmB_8I7ZW3fkpV2anv8HpUFo9Uzm_m7TT_R1EVzVTfdrw\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_MSsZiTdiwZFgSLW5TcZA8NOJgtdX0HB7Y-xxrKmVxgUIx8PUk5_DBG3dOT6DPtDc3ml6HjVqiooQ65lOUtP4OjHj85P3HKmAPDAHT9CWS-eZPY3MKHvV-JjYwTifhsfWEfePS40DRs8GNGJ8Q\")
Small plantings packing a BIG punch. The benefits of rain gardens are multifold. Firstly, they help prevent pollution from runoff water. The water that falls off our roofs, down the street, or across a parking lot isn’t pure rainwater; it collects pollutants as it flows, especially excess nitrogen and phosphorus from lawn fertilizers. These pollutants can harm rivers and ponds by causing algae blooms and fish kill. The deep roots of native plants readily absorb these nutrients, protecting groundwater quality. During heavy to moderate rain events, this storm surge can cause damaging erosion, sediment buildup, and bring a number of other harms to freshwater ecosystems, negatively impacting freshwater mussels and other aquatic life.
\n\n\n\nRain gardens can also play a part to protect Austin properties from floods. A mature stand of rain garden plants will take up excess water that might normally puddle in your yard, leading to water damage issues in your home. When you get rid of standing water, you also reduce mosquito breeding problems around your home.
\n\n\n\nRain gardens create habitats for wildlife. The traditional Austin front yard is turf grass, a monoculture that does little to nurture wildlife, but a mixed planting of native Texas flowers and grasses will draw butterflies, bees, beneficial insects, and birds. Rain gardens also help conserve water. Once established the native plants that thrive in the rain garden won’t need supplemental irrigation, as they are deep-rooted and have evolved to survive periods of drought between rains.
\n\n\n\nGetting s
If you’re planning to divert your roof gutters into your rain garden, you won’t want to install the feature too far away from your home, but you must place it at least ten feet away from your home. Underground utilities and tree roots may also influence the placement of the rain garden.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check for these two things before you begin to dig.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/2Esyi2eVKRoMKak2UnqoBo4JPdg5DkL4jJUDn8ivE8u9SaQkRaCMvZceYQm97QzCHvIKNEpkUXrPgEUx61iuKp4jt6i6Lkmf3basdfESz35HM-fhBzwH4IlS1mn7ys2BHpWVGxYxsh3ArH6npg\")
Choosing the Right Plants. In order to properly design a rain garden, only use perennial plants. This is because a rain garden functions as a water remediation (cleaning) feature and greatly depends on the deep roots of perennial plants. When considering plants, look at their soil moisture requirements and plan accordingly. While your rain garden should favor plants that can tolerate occasional flooding, this does not mean you are limited to only wetland species or that they are necessarily the best fit for a rain garden. In places like Austin, where rain may be seasonal or intermittent, drought tolerance should be a greater consideration than tolerance of flooding. Luckily, Austin native plants with deep roots that are useful for driving water back into the earth are often drought tolerant as well—making them an excellent choice for rain gardens.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few good choices of plants for each zone of a rain garden that are well suited to Austin:
\n\n\n\nAdd Some Height. Although a rain garden is not the place to grow a large shade tree, you can add a small ornamental tree or shrub to act as a focal point in the landscape. A Texas redbud tree has beautiful pink-red flowers in the spring and will reach a mature height of 15-20 feet. A cypress or cedar elm specimen can work in a larger landscape, and will greatly increase the water absorption ability of your rain garden. Trees also lend much-needed shade along a street or sidewalk when rain gardens are used in those settings.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bw0nehWRO3FijgqiVY6ni0q7qzRHA_lBeGHvI23vzit05SDMbDt0LdSfjhV_KQ-XxLnxh4korfL2cBKGcH76X8SXDlP5pO4uuI6NK8wVogiMXQV8HTSG9Oh9kJyjnOdQRbun24Fm7FBxdObJJw\")
Create a long life for your g
Rain gardens need to be kept free of weeds, both for plant health and aesthetic value. The best time to weed is right after a strong Austin rain event when the soil becomes soft and weed roots release their hold more easily. Additionally, by adding a three-inch layer of mulch on top of the soil surface weed growth will be further suppressed. Use a fine hardwood mulch, as it’s less likely to float away after a heavy rain.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/GAC1IlHN4g6UVu3tqj_NNysGh0QYYz_hfzfhXHhqicwfYyPkgEBP_auAm0HOQogjouBH3a-eLhAzAln7NJ85nc74CW0yNytgWgFTO0CPDvFnQcEQJ35mjPJ6mUQ3SrkPTvhVxaP_1i7kO5LA9A\")
Top Photo: Source
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care? Please visit our Austin, TX lawn care page by clicking here.
\n","title":"How to Design a Rain Garden in Austin, Texas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.6,"src":"/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/1789c/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg","srcSet":"/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/107df/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg 320w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/293e9/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg 500w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/f2cbb/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg 800w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/1789c/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg 960w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/c26c2/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/1dd6e/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/67b76/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp 320w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/8df11/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp 500w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/98a65/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp 800w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/1dd6e/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp 960w,\n/static/34ff10423e0fac92880e54d6c9860aa7/3cc96/carlos-delgado-732806-unsplash-e1550710438919.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Design a Rain Garden in Austin, Texas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"8cde88dd-63e4-529d-86ed-78c173eac13a","slug":"best-grass-types-michigan","path":"/lawn-care/michigan/best-grass-types-michigan/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tatiana Barrie is a writer with a background in law and tech, passionate about environmental sustainability and animal welfare. When she’s not writing, Tatiana enjoys reading, camping, hiking, and traveling the world.","name":"Tatiana Barrie","id":"8c60c769-47b8-542b-b658-4947278b51c5","path":"/author/tatiana-barrie/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2efff47c9ef277fa369b6224bb184e40?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"75fb394d-179e-5e85-92bb-a24a339af8a6","name":"Michigan","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/michigan/"}],"date":"April 28th, 2023","excerpt":"From the chilly shores of the Upper Peninsula to the warmer lawns of the southern region, Michigan’s climate can be as unpredictable as a Spartans vs. Wolverines coin toss. So, finding the perfect grass to withstand this moody weather is essential – not only to maintain a stunning lawn but also to ensure the health […]
\n","content":"\nFrom the chilly shores of the Upper Peninsula to the warmer lawns of the southern region, Michigan’s climate can be as unpredictable as a Spartans vs. Wolverines coin toss. So, finding the perfect grass to withstand this moody weather is essential – not only to maintain a stunning lawn but also to ensure the health and longevity of your green oasis. To help you narrow down your search, we’ve compiled a list of the 5 best grass types for Michigan yards.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, as the name suggests, thrive in cooler temperatures and are the ideal choice for the weather swings we experience in the Great Lake State from season to season. In this article, we’ll explore 5 cool-season grasses: Tall fescue, fine-leaf fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, creeping bentgrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nNow, keep in mind that you’ll need to consider some key factors, such as your soil type and maintenance preferences, before choosing the perfect cool-season grass for your Michigan yard.
\n\n\n\nHere’s what we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are ideal for regions with hot summers and mild winters, such as the southern United States. They grow best in temperatures ranging from 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit and will go dormant and turn brown during cooler months.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are perfect for areas with cold winters and moderate summers, like the northern United States. They thrive in temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which allows them to stay green for most of the year, except in extreme heat or cold (when they go dormant).
\n\n\n\nMichigan is divided into different USDA hardiness zones, ranging from the frigid 4a zone in the Upper Peninsula to the relatively toasty 6b zone in the southern part. This means that the northern region of Michigan (Marquette, Houghton, Sault Ste) has very cold winters and short, mild summers, while the southern area (Grand Rapids, Kalamazoo, Ann Arbor) has a slightly warmer climate, especially in summer.
\n\n\n\nNow, despite these differences, cool-season grasses are the only type of grass that can thrive in the Great Lake State. Why? Michigan’s overall temperature is on the cooler side, with summer highs only reaching mid-70s to low 80s degrees Fahrenheit and winter lows dropping to 20s or even colder. Warm-season grasses, which prefer hot climates, simply can’t handle Michigan’s tough winters and milder summers.
\n\n\n\nThe following cool-season turfgrasses are not only the best options for Michigan, but also suitable for lawns across the entire state:
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re living in the southern third of the Lower Peninsula, tall fescue is an excellent choice for your lawn. It has a deep root system that helps it stay strong during the hot summer months of cities like Jackson, Battle Creek, Coldwater, and Lansing. Got some big, beautiful oak trees shading your yard? No problem. Tall fescue can also grow in cool, shady areas – however, it’ll perform best with 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
\n\n\n\nThis grass species has strong durability and resistance to common Michigan turf diseases, so you can spend your weekends rooting for the Pistons or the Red Wings without worrying about your lawn’s health. Just keep in mind that fall fescue grows quickly and requires frequent mowing. Also, avoid over-fertilizing. This can cause excessive growth, making your lawn more vulnerable to diseases, such as brown patch or pythium blight.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Young tall fescue seedlings might need some extra care during the winter months. Without proper maintenance, they won’t be able to handle extreme cold temperatures. However, once they’re all grown and established, they can make it through most of Michigan’s chilly winters just fine.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man's](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red-Fescue-a-species-of-fine-fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFine-leaf fescue is another type of fescue grass, which is known for its fine, narrow blades and its ability to grow in a variety of soil types —even the acidic, infertile soils of the western Upper Peninsula and northern areas of the Lower Peninsula. It can withstand extreme temperatures better than other types of grasses do, and since it grows at a slower rate than other varieties (like perennial ryegrass), you won’t need to spend as much time maintaining your yard.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your lawn’s conditions, you can choose between the various cultivars of fine-leaf fescue to find the best fit for your specific needs. For example, if your lawn sees a lot of foot traffic, you may want to opt for a hardier variety, like creeping red fescue, which is known for its wear resistance. If, on the other hand, your yard has a significant amount of tree cover, chewings fescue is a better choice —it’s one of the most shade-tolerant fine fescue cultivars.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red Fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. It prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fine fescue isn’t typically recommended as a standalone option. If you ¡decide to use it in your lawn, it’s important to mix it with other grass types such as Kentucky bluegrass, and Perennial ryegrass for best results.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is one of the most widely used grass types across all of Michigan’s cities. It’s cold-tolerant, which means it can handle the frosty winter months and come back in full force once spring rolls around. When summer arrives, it’s ready to take on the heat and bring a lush, green vibrancy to your lawn. However, if you live in the southeastern or southwestern regions of Michigan, you’ll need to make sure to water it consistently during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is also incredibly durable and can bounce back from the wear and tear of backyard BBQs, games of catch, and lazy afternoons spent lounging in the sun. Plus, it self-repairs quickly, which makes it a top pick for high-traffic lawns with active families or pets that love to run around outside. It’s important to note, though, that it has a low tolerance for shade, so it’s important to plant it in areas that receive full sun.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low shade tolerance, among the lowest of any cool-season grass.
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate – if the lawn is not properly irrigated during hot months, the grass will become brown.
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – however, its rhizomes give it an exceptional capacity to quickly recover from damage.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5 – 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: There are different types of Kentucky bluegrass. For example, some may be better suited for high-traffic areas, while others may be more drought-tolerant. To create a resilient and adaptable lawn, it’s recommended to blend between 2 to 4 cultivars together. Some great options include Alpine, Boutique, Total Eclipse, and Nuglade cultivars.
\n\n\n\n![\"Blades](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/3820997510_5ae18bbfb3_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCreeping bentgrass grows best in Michigan’s northern and central regions, where the climate is cooler and the summers are mild. It’s a fine-bladed grass that can create a dense, uniform lawn when properly maintained. Now, while it can give your yard a lush, green look, it’s actually pretty rare in Michigan lawns.
\n\n\n\nWhy? Well, creeping bentgrass requires a lot of maintenance. It’s prone to certain diseases, like dollar spot and brown patch, so you’ll need to be diligent about monitoring your lawn and treating any issues that arise. Additionally, it prefers well-draining soils, so if you live in an area with heavy clay or compacted soil (like the southern region of Michigan), you may need to amend your soil before planting.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Requires frequent watering, fertilizing, dethatching, and mowing.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 0.5 – 0.125 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High disease potential. Common infections include dollar spot and brown patch.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers moist soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Creeping bentgrass is known for its aggressive, spreading growth habit. If you’re using creeping bentgrass in a mixed turf area, it’s important to contain its spread to prevent it from invading other grass types.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a cool-season grass with fine, shiny leaves that will leave your lawn looking like a Pure Michigan ad. While Michigan’s cold winters can be tough on this grass type, its rapid establishment can help it recover quickly from any damage. Plus, it’s also highly resistant to pests and diseases commonly found in Michigan, making it a top choice for homeowners who prefer to keep chemical pesticides at bay.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type thrives in areas such as the southwestern and southeastern parts of the Lower Peninsula, where the climate is moderated by the proximity to the Great Lakes. The coastal zones along Lake Michigan or Lake Erie can also benefit from Perennial Ryegrass’s adaptability to various soil types, including sandy soils with some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch buildup isn’t significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Perennial Ryegrass is often used in grass seed mixtures with other cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue. This combination creates a dense turf that is more resistant to drought, pests, and diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types for Northern Michigan include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and fine-leaf fescue. Their deep root system allows them to withstand the freezing winters while also providing excellent drought tolerance during the summer months.
While all of the grass types in this list will fit Detroit’s yards, tall fescue is certainly a top pick. Detroit’s climate, with its hot summers and cold winters, can be harsh on lawns, but tall fescue is a resilient turfgrass that can handle the warmer temperatures of the southern region of Michigan.
Additionally, this low-maintenance grass offers resistance to most local pests and diseases, which is essential considering Detroit’s humidity.
Tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass are the best grass types for Southern Michigan’s climate. Tall fescue is a cool-season grass that’s resistant to drought and heat stress, making it ideal for the hot summers of cities like Detroit, St. Joseph, and Grand Haven.
Kentucky bluegrass is also well-suited for the fluctuating temperatures of Southern Michigan. It has a high tolerance for cold conditions, so it can withstand the freezing temperatures that the region experiences during the winter months.
Choosing the right grass for your Michigan lawn can make all the difference in creating a beautiful landscape that can thrive in our unique climate. However, don’t forget to check your yard’s conditions before making a decision. Some items to consider include:
\n\n\n\nAlso, while we’ve mentioned some low-maintenance grass options, keeping a well-groomed lawn still requires some effort and care. If you want to spend more time hiking in the Porcupine Mountains or enjoying the shores of Lake Erie, try out some low-maintenance landscaping ideas, like pairing these grasses with native plants for Michigan. You’ll have a stunning yard that not only requires less care but also contributes to the local ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nNeed to hire a Michigan lawn care pro near you? Connect with trusted professionals in Detroit, Grand Rapids, and many other cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Wave Field / Dwight Burdette / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Types for Michigan","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/1789c/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/107df/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg 320w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/293e9/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg 500w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/f2cbb/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg 800w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/1789c/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg 960w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/c26c2/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/1dd6e/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/67b76/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp 320w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/8df11/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp 500w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/98a65/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp 800w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/1dd6e/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp 960w,\n/static/f2475d1923fb17fc2a41bc293b8bd015/3cc96/The-Wave-Field-Earthwork-Sculpture-University-of-Michigan-Campus.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Types for Michigan","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Need to plant new grass seed? Discover the five best grass types for Michigan's unique climate in our guide."}}},{"node":{"id":"36ce7c7b-d94e-58a3-a1f6-1eab325ec71f","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro","path":"/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"27e940f6-30a2-50ad-939d-b73973245b23","name":"Murfreesboro","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Pumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care […]
\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care begins in the fall, and September is a crucial month for fertilizer. Follow our fall lawn care checklist to maintain your lawn and prepare it for the winter playoff season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nResidents love Tennessee’s mild autumns. The southern state is in the transition zone, and both warm and cool-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Proper fall lawn care from September through November sets the foundation for your landscape during the winter months and spring green-up. Proper maintenance during these cool transition months helps your lawn grow deeper, stronger roots.
\n\n\n\nFall lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s mild fall gives way to a short, cold, and wet winter, causing some cool-season grass cultivars and most warm-season grass cultivars to go dormant, developing thatch. Thatch is the tight, intermingled layer of dead grass, living grass blades, and roots that accumulate above soil level but below eye line visibility. Thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Watch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately to avoid suffocating your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to identify your grass variety. Tennessee cool-season grass cultivars like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass actively grow in the fall and early spring. Warm-season varieties such as bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass hit their green-up phase in late spring and summer. Dethatch your cool-season lawn in early fall and save your warm-season cultivar dethatching session for spring.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. Aeration is a common method to introduce this element back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of common aeration: core aeration and spike aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass and mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators extract cores of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover cores of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, reducing compaction, increasing air exchange, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators poke small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nEarly fall is one of the best times to test your soil to ensure it has all the nutrients it needs to thrive. Middle Tennessee is home to many soil types and some are nutrient deficient. It is important to understand exactly what nutrients your grass is lacking. Murfreesboro homeowners should send in a soil sample for testing in September.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a one-cup core sample to receive your results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications and lime for soil pH imbalances.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/green-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nLate summer and early fall are the best times to seed your cool-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while spring is the best time to seed warm-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are cool-season cultivars that respond well to fall overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your cool-season Tennessee lawn in late August or early September. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your turfgrass cultivar, a fall fertilizer application promotes deep roots and sets your grass up for success during its fall green-up or winter dormancy period. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape, so it is important to start with a soil test. The best time to apply fertilizer depends on your turfgrass cultivar, while the best type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize cool-season grass cultivars like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass as they hit their active growing season. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn on Sept. 1, Oct. 15, and Nov. 15 to improve root depth and turf density. Be sure to select a fertilizer that satisfies your soil test results with the proper N-P-K ratio.
\n\n\n\nA fall fertilizer application helps warm-season turfgrasses like centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass resist winter weeds and improves turf color and spring recovery rates. Fertilize your warm-season lawn with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn around Sept. 1. Pay attention to the potassium and phosphorus needs on your soil test results and select a low-nitrogen, high-potassium or phosphorus blend, if needed.
\n\n\n\nLime is a fall soil amendment like fertilizer composed of limestone rock ground into powder. It contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The addition of lime to your turfgrass increases nutrients and soil alkalinity, spreading beneficial bacteria. The ideal pH for your soil depends on the type of turfgrass in your landscape. Apply lime in September, October, or November if your soil test recommends it.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Fine Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 6.0 – 7.0 |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Tall Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nThe `Boro’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the fall. The city’s autumns are warm with a 49% chance of cloud cover and give way to short, wet, and cold winters. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, it is tempting to mow your lawn short and make less work for yourself, but most grass types benefit from longer grass blades in the fall. Cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury, weeds, and cold stress. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots, setting your lawn up for winter success and a better spring green-up.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass benefit from higher mowing heights in the fall to increase insulation and encourage deeper roots before winter.
\n\n\n\nRaise the height of your cut by a half inch in mid-September. Continue mowing through fall until the first frost. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in the fall, and never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow every seven to 14 days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn. Always aim to cut less, more often.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their active growth phase in the early fall after summer dormancy
\n\n\n\nMow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during fall. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
No matter what variety of turfgrass your lawn has, Murfreesboro lawns seldom need daily irrigating in the fall unless it is brand new. Water as needed early in the morning throughout fall. Winters in the `Boro are usually wet, providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all Tennessee turfgrass varieties twice per week if it hasn’t rained, aiming for a half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYour best defense against lawn disease is routine maintenance, including watering, fertilization, and proper mowing heights. Tennessee’s mild fall temperatures and subtropical climate create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi, including large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, rust, nematodes, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that appears as brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. This disease affects bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue. It does not respond well to fungicides. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is caused by a Tennessee soil-dwelling fungus that thrives in the warm, moist weather of spring and fall. It affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nFairy rings, caused by mushroom or puffball-producing fungi, affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. Be on the lookout for an arc or ring of dead grass surrounded by healthy grass. Many infections also produce mushrooms or puffballs around the ring.
\n\n\n\nLike large patch, fairy rings do not respond well to fungicides. Till or remove the soil around the affected area and reseed for severe infestations. For mild infestations, remove thatch, aerate, and perform routine maintenance, ensuring proper irrigation.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during cool, moist fall weather, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. These unsegmented roundworms need moisture to survive, and populations peak in the fall. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Spores germinate through moisture and dew, and active infections pop up throughout spring into fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf.
\n\n\n\nTreat rust using a fungicide, and prevent this Tennessee turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions to minimize leaf moisture.
\n\n\n\nStripe smut is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It is a serious fall disease causing stunted root growth, stiff and erect leaf blades, and a yellow and brown appearance.
\n\n\n\nOnce an outbreak occurs, smut fungus grows rapidly in fall temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Treat the turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance, including infrequent but deep waterings and proper fertilization. Fungicide applications can help reduce active infections.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWeeds love Murfreesboro’s subtropical climate. These pests signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health, including low-nitrogen levels, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds siphon vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and spread pests and diseases. Two common methods of weed control include post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nAll cool-season Tennessee turfgrasses, including tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass benefit from a fall application of pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination. Additionally, both Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass benefit from a September pre-emergent herbicide application to control annual bluegrass, a common Tennessee weed.
\n\n\n\nWhile these herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds, they will help control the emergence of new winter annual and perennial broadleaf and grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter grassy weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth of winter broadleaf weeds that become a nuisance during Murfreesboro falls. Always apply the herbicide directly to the active weed. Wait 30 days between applications, and never apply more than two applications per year.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter broadleaf weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nLocations with four seasons like Murfreesboro attract many homeowners with promises of warm summers, changing fall foliage, and a chance for a white Christmas. Watching leaves change from green to autumn gold, bronze, and red is something to look forward to as you sip your pumpkin spice latte and gear up for Friday night football. Unfortunately, the colorful leaves drop to the ground, creating a fluffy and crunchy layer over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nLeaves block out the sun, trap moisture, reduce airflow, and lead to dead spots of turfgrass. They increase pest problems and spread disease, so be sure to remove them as soon as possible. Wait until the leaves are dry to rake and prepare to rake your lawn before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the leaves and layer of thatch left behind. It does not matter if you rake as your leaves fall or wait until all the leaves in your yard have fallen.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners can stop mowing their warm-season Murfreesboro lawns in mid-October. These cultivars include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Homeowners with cool-season varieties, including Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue, can typically stop mowing after the first frost in early December.
Warm-season turf gasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass will go dormant during the end of fall and the beginning of winter. These cultivars dry out and turn brown.
The best way to determine if your grass is dormant is by pulling on it. If the grass comes out of the ground easily, it is likely dead. However, if there is resistance from deep roots when you pull on your grass, it is dormant.
No. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients. It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Tennessee turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass.
Mild fall weather creates a prime environment for routine yard work that will set your lawn up to take on the wet, cold Tennessee winter and prepare it for a better green-up in the spring. Be sure to check out our spring lawn care tips to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and would rather watch football or hit the trails, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your lawn establish deep roots so it can survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tarpely Farm-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.606425702811245,"src":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/107df/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/293e9/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/f2cbb/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/c26c2/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/67b76/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/8df11/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/98a65/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/3cc96/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 11 valuable tips for maintaining a fall lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the cold Tennessee winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"4c56138e-9103-52c6-81f9-eb3c6bc55d56","slug":"best-grass-types-boston","path":"/lawn-care/ma/boston/best-grass-types-boston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp award-winning garden writer, editor, and speaker. (She speaks at libraries, garden clubs, public gardens, home and garden shows, Master Gardener groups, and horticulture industry events.) Known as a hortiholic, she frequently says her eyes are too big for her yard. She blogs at hoosiergardener.com.","name":"Jo Ellen Meyer Sharp","id":"7ac166e7-66c5-5908-b0ac-d817298c8751","path":"/author/jo-ellen-meyer-sharp/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/63824390c841836ff2ffdaeb32c90d34?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"bc5dd326-c9ae-59ac-ad82-e4a08e14955d","name":"Boston","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ma/boston/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"33c4a526-c6f7-5d9e-96d4-d1803a4d03b7","name":"Massachusetts","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ma/"}],"date":"April 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Boston is known for its Emerald Necklace, defined by the Frederick Law Olmsted-designed system of green spaces. You can have a little bit of the Emerald Necklace in your landscape with the correct selection of the best grass types for your Boston lawn. These are recommendations for seed or sod. In this article Kentucky Bluegrass […]
\n","content":"\nBoston is known for its Emerald Necklace, defined by the Frederick Law Olmsted-designed system of green spaces. You can have a little bit of the Emerald Necklace in your landscape with the correct selection of the best grass types for your Boston lawn. These are recommendations for seed or sod.
\n\n\n\nIn this article
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ethan2039 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWant a lawn that feels perfect under bare feet? Something soft, able to withstand kid’s play or lounging on the lawn? Kentucky bluegrass is the way to go. Although it requires a little more maintenance, Kentucky blue is one of the top choices in lawns throughout the country.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance includes regular irrigation, mowing and fertilization to retain its bluish-green good looks, even in winter. Pay particular attention to irrigation. Adequate nitrogen application is important, too. Always read and follow the label directions.
\n\n\n\nIf it gets too hot and dry and there’s no irrigation, Kentucky bluegrass will go dormant. Cooler weather, rain or renewed watering the lawn will revive it quickly, unless it went more than about six weeks without water.
\n\n\n\nPerennial Ryegrass
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
Unlike Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass is a good low-maintenance alternative for your Boston landscape. Perennial rye can handle foot traffic and child play, and is great for relaxing on the deep green turf.
\n\n\n\nThe blades of perennial ryegrass are medium textured rather than fine like Kentucky bluegrass. Because it germinates quickly, it sometimes is mixed in with other grass types for overseeding or to fill bare spots. Although a clump grower, it may compete with other grasses to create an odd-looking mix in the lawn. Use about a 20% perennial rye when mixing with Kentucky blue or fine fescue.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is susceptible to fungal diseases like red thread and dollar spot. Several cultivars of perennial ryegrass contain beneficial fungal endophytes. These internal compounds help protect plants and enhance growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Fine-leaf-Fescue.jpg\")
Fine-leaf Fescue
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
This type includes creeping fescue, chewings fescue and hard fescue. Each can be used alone or mixed with other grasses. Fine fescues have medium to dark green narrow leaves. They tolerate acidic or low pH soil and also tolerate shade and drought.
\n\n\n\nFine fescues do not like hot humid conditions, heavy fertilization or excess foot traffic, however. These may also get fungus disease, such as red thread. Although considered low maintenance, fine fescues do best when irrigated and mowed regularly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Tall Fescue
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
As a rough-and-tumble lawn grass, tall fescue is at the top of the list. It is rooted in lawns throughout the country and appreciated for its low maintenance and durability. It tends to grow quickly in spring and fall, especially in open, sunny areas.
\n\n\n\nAlthough slow to establish, tall fescue requires little fertilizer and resists many pests and diseases. This makes it ideal for Boston homeowners who don’t want lawn worries. The leaf color ranges from medium to dark green with a bit of a rough. texture. Newer varieties have been developed with finer textures.
\n\n\n\nThe only warm-season grass that is winter hardy in the Boston area is zoysiagrass. It is available in the market, but homeowners should give it some thought before planting it.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it has many attributes, they may not offset other zoysia habits. For instance, zoysiagrass turns brown as soon as temperatures drop and returns to medium green when the warm season returns. In cold climates, zoysiagrass tends to be brown for a longer period than it is green.
\n\n\n\nZoysia also spreads by under- and above-ground stems (rhizomes and stolons). It readily creeps out of its space to gardens and landscape beds and the neighbor’s yard. Your neighbor will hate it.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass withstands heat, drought and foot traffic, but will thin in shade. It rarely needs to be mowed. It does need regular aeration, however. Also on the plus side, its dense growing habit discourages weeds.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like zoysiagrass grow most actively in late spring and summer when temperatures are around 75 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They perform best in the Southern United States.
\n\n\n\nA good lawn and garden center will stock the type of seed that is best for your Boston lawn, but it’s important to understand that most turf grass seed is a blend of seeds. The reason there are mixes is to get a fast-germinating seed to come on first to hold soil in place while slower-germinating seeds start to grow. Usually, a mixed seed selection can be used broadly in the landscape, from moderately shady locations to full sun. Grass seed also is sold as individual types.
\n\n\n\nBuy the best grass seed you can find. Grass is inexpensive compared to other plants in your Boston landscape. Current grass seed products are much improved over what your parents or grandparents sowed.
\n\n\n\nNewer products have been perfected with coatings that ensure good germination, such as a mini dose of fertilizer and enough moisture to get the seed growing.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses grow most actively in early spring and fall when temperatures are around 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They’re well-suited to northern climates with distinct seasons and cold winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to sow grass seed is from mid-August to mid-September. The soil still retains summer warmth to help the seed germinate. Rains in fall also help grass seed take root and grow.
\n\n\n\nEven overseeding – sowing seed to fill in bare spots or thicken the lawn – is best down in early fall.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re a busy bee and want to save time, opt for perennial ryegrass and fescues.
Fine fescue is the best option for lawns with abundant shade.
Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass can withstand a lot of foot traffic. Zoysiagrass is also good for a busy lawn.
Fine fescue doesn’t require as much watering as other grass types. Zoysia also needs little watering.
Don’t have time to keep up with your lawn care duties? Hire a Boston lawn care pro to turn your lawn into an emerald jewel.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Unsplash
\n","title":"The Best Grass Types For a Boston Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4943960149439601,"src":"/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/1789c/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg","srcSet":"/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/107df/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg 320w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/293e9/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg 500w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/f2cbb/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg 800w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/1789c/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg 960w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/c26c2/Grassy-Lawn-3.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/1dd6e/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/67b76/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp 320w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/8df11/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp 500w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/98a65/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp 800w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/1dd6e/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp 960w,\n/static/86e6d238eeb89cef0308e3c00537bc4e/3cc96/Grassy-Lawn-3.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Best Grass Types For a Boston Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Reseeding some bare patches in your grass or putting in a new lawn? Here are the grass types that thrive best in Boston."}}},{"node":{"id":"a07bc1c4-b053-5fa1-a782-1d07cda67165","slug":"phoenix-watering-guide-conserving-water","path":"/lawn-care/az/phoenix/phoenix-watering-guide-conserving-water/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"90f74182-5f0d-5dd3-8d32-576a5a21d01d","name":"Phoenix","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/phoenix/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Phoenix, AZ is no stranger to tumultuous droughts, especially during summer and spring seasons. The conservation of water is especially important in this area to support local guidelines in year-long drought protections. While a green lawn may seem unattainable here, there are watering techniques that make grass very efficient in conserving water with not very […]
\n","content":"\nPhoenix, AZ is no stranger to tumultuous droughts, especially during summer and spring seasons. The conservation of water is especially important in this area to support local guidelines in year-long drought protections. While a green lawn may seem unattainable here, there are watering techniques that make grass very efficient in conserving water with not very much water at all. Here are some tips on achieving that luscious lawn during drought season.
\n\n\n\nWatering a lawn is most efficient when wind speeds and evaporation are minimized. The time of day that this usually aligns with is in the morning when the sun is rising and at night time. Watering at night is slightly more risky than watering in the morning. However, if night time fits your schedule better, you will just want to keep a closer eye on how much water the grass is getting. It is easier to over water a lawn when the sun isn’t helping to soak up excess water.
\n\n\n\nUnderstand that with different weather, a watering schedule will change from week to week. If the weather is cold or windy, it is best to not water as much that day. In general, although it varies with different grass types, a lawn should receive about an inch of water each week.
If the goal is to have a green lawn the course of action has to be to train roots to grow deep. You do this by watering deep and infrequently. When you water, whether in the morning or at night, the grass should have water trickle to about ten inches deep. To test this, you can use a screwdriver about an hour after watering to see how deep the soil will allow it to go. If it is around the 10-inch range then you are watering properly. If it is not then you need to water a little more.
\n\n\n\nBermuda grass is a great option for Phoenix homes. It is drought tolerant and resistant to traffic and other stresses. This is a warm-season grass and will go dormant during the winter. To maintain green all year you can overseed with R
Midiron is another grass type that thrives in Phoenix for its drought tolerance and resistance to traffic. This lawn requires very low maintenance and like Bermuda grass needs about an inch of water every week during peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nIrrigation systems take the sweat out of consistently watering the lawn. They are reliable and mostly last very long. Timers allow for the homeowner to designate how much water the lawn receives and when it receives it. Most of human error can be taken out through one of these systems.
\n\n\n\nDrip Irrigation has been coined as the most efficient form of irrigation. The Drip systems are incorporated by the base of the grass and or plants. The water drips directly into the base of the grass minimizing runoff and evaporation. This type of system works really well in a desert environment. Sometimes soil becomes overly dry and when it is watered there becomes a flux of runoff. If you’re looking for the best conservation of water, this is it. This system is more geared towards smaller lawns.
\n\n\n\nSprinklers offer a wider coverage than drip irrigation and are a very popular choice for residential properties. Automatic sprinklers will come with a timer that can be adjusted. These should be watched closely after instillation to ensure there is not runoff water. If runoff occurs change the settings to smaller durations of watering time. If used correctly these can be efficient for water conservation.
\n\n\n\nIn any region, residents should aim to plant plants that are native to the area. For Phoenix especially, you will want to plants plants that do not rely on much additional water. Plants like Cacti, Succulents and native wildflowers do really well in this climate and may not even need any extra water. If you are planting any trees remember that shaded areas of the lawn do not need as much water as exposed sections of the lawn.
\n\n\n\nRead more: 5 Native Plants for Easy Gardening in Phoenix, AZ
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care advice? Visit our Phoenix, AZ lawn care page for a list of pros and additional lawn care tips.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Dean Terasaki
\n","title":"The #1 2019 Phoenix Watering Guide: Conserving Water","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4981273408239701,"src":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/f2cbb/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg","srcSet":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/107df/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 320w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/293e9/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 500w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/f2cbb/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/98a65/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/67b76/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 320w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/8df11/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 500w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/98a65/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The #1 2019 Phoenix Watering Guide: Conserving Water | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"11a46912-2115-56c3-8a87-2d3efa09b79d","slug":"florida-friendly-landscaping-ideas","path":"/lawn-care/florida-friendly-landscaping-ideas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 8th, 2023","excerpt":"Florida is blessed with sunshine, gorgeous beaches, warm temperatures, stunning natural landscapes, and lush vegetation year-round. But with the Sunshine State’s unique weather conditions and soil types, creating and maintaining a beautiful and resilient landscape can be a challenge. In addition, Florida is prone to hurricanes and tropical storms, which can cause severe damage to […]
\n","content":"\nFlorida is blessed with sunshine, gorgeous beaches, warm temperatures, stunning natural landscapes, and lush vegetation year-round. But with the Sunshine State’s unique weather conditions and soil types, creating and maintaining a beautiful and resilient landscape can be a challenge.
\n\n\n\nIn addition, Florida is prone to hurricanes and tropical storms, which can cause severe damage to homes and gardens. With this in mind, these 9 Florida-friendly landscaping ideas can help you achieve the perfect garden for your home.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTo have a beautiful and healthy garden, you need a sustainable approach like the Florida-Friendly Landscaping or FFL program that’s suitable for your Florida home. The FFL program is a statewide initiative that encourages sustainable landscaping practices ideal for the state’s unique climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nThis program was established in 1993 by the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS extension) and the Florida Department of Environmental Protection. It was their response to concerns about water quality and conservation in the state.
\n\n\n\nWith a range of educational resources and training programs for homeowners, landscapers, and other professionals, the program has numerous goals, including:
\n\n\n\nThese resources include workshops, online training, and educational materials such as books, brochures, and videos.
\n\n\n\nWith numerous recognition and awards for its contributions to water quality and conservation efforts, the FFL program has been successful in promoting sustainable landscaping practices throughout the state.
\n\n\n\nOne of the key features of the Florida-Friendly Landscaping program is the use of nine key principles that form the basis of sustainable landscaping practices in the state. These FFL principles include using native plants, mulching, minimizing fertilizer and pesticide use, and promoting wildlife habitat conservation and management.
\n\n\n\nCreating a sustainable and easy-to-maintain home landscape design is achievable by ensuring that each plant is positioned in the most suitable location. But first, you’ll need to choose Florida-friendly plants that are suited to your property’s soil type, lighting conditions, water availability, and climate.
\n\n\n\nSince native plants require little to no additional water, fertilization, or pesticides once established, it translates to time and cost savings. But remember to stay away from invasive plants like Chinese tallow and Australian pine in your plant selection. Instead, opt for salt-tolerant plants like seagrape and Southern wax myrtle.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting, check if it’s safe to dig in that area. Otherwise, you may damage your utility lines, which will cause tremendous problems for you. Also, avoid planting trees too close to your home and power lines to prevent issues down the line.
\n\n\n\nThe benefits of following the “Right Plant, Right Place” approach include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Several factors can influence the cost of professional tree planting. It’s typically higher for larger and more established trees, while smaller saplings tend to be more affordable. But you can expect to pay between $22 and $3,300.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nTo promote healthy plant growth, you must ensure they receive the appropriate nutrients they need. Though plants naturally obtain nutrients from the soil, providing them with supplemental nutrients can help them grow much better. Fertilizers can:
\n\n\n\nHowever, you need to use the right fertilizers. Otherwise, using fertilizers not suitable for your plants can damage them and cause severe environmental consequences.
\n\n\n\nTo determine the right type and amount of fertilizer you need for your lawn, a soil test done by your local extension office can help. By analyzing soil samples, it can reveal crucial information about the nutrient levels, pH, and organic matter content of the soil. For example, if a soil test reveals that the soil is deficient in nitrogen, a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content may be recommended.
\n\n\n\nAlso, fertilize at the right time to prevent nutrient runoff and leaching. The UF/IFAS Extension recommends fertilizing between February and March or September to October. Doing so can help ensure that your lawn receives adequate nutrients to thrive while protecting Florida’s waters from pollution.
\n\n\n\nAlways follow fertilizer label directions carefully and adhere to any local fertilizer ordinances. Plus, ensure that your landscape professional is licensed and has undergone the GI-BMP (Green Industries Best Management Practices) training.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: On average, the cost of fertilization for an average-sized lawn is around $380, with costs ranging from $88 to $544. The final cost depends on factors including the size of the lawn, the type of fertilizer used, and the lawn care company hired to perform the service.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nImplementing an effective irrigation system can have a significant impact on water conservation and reducing pollution. With a well-designed and calibrated irrigation system that uses less water, your plants will have the right amount of water necessary for optimal growth while you help conserve water resources.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, an efficient irrigation system can enhance the aesthetic appeal of the yard, which can bring a sense of satisfaction. Plus, it can help minimize nutrient leaching and runoff, resulting in a more sustainable environment. Also, adjust your watering schedule accordingly to conform with the local government’s ordinance on water restrictions.
\n\n\n\nWhen designing an irrigation system, remember to:
\n\n\n\nAnother way of helping reduce the strain on municipal water systems is to use rain barrels for collecting and storing rainwater for irrigation. Doing so can help lower your water bills. Plus, collecting rainwater with rain barrels before it hits the ground can help prevent erosion and promote healthy soil.
\n\n\n\nAlways remember that overwatering can be harmful to your lawn. So, only water your garden as needed while considering the best time to water in Florida.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: On average, the installation cost for underground sprinkler systems is approximately $0.60 per square foot, with the total cost averaging around $3,150. This amount can fluctuate depending on various factors, such as the complexity of the system design, the size of the yard, and the type of sprinkler heads being installed.
\n\n\n\nYou might be surprised at what a layer of mulch can do for your landscape. It conserves moisture, protects plants, and reduces weed growth. Mulch is also an excellent choice for shady areas and hard-to-mow spots. It creates a neat and uniform appearance that is both visually pleasing and functional.
\n\n\n\nUsing mulch provides many benefits for your landscape, including:
\n\n\n\nMaximize the benefits of mulching by maintaining a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer on plant beds. Be careful not to pile mulch against the trunk of your trees, as this may cause rot. Instead, leave a 2-inch space around the trunk. Allowing fallen leaves to remain under your trees creates a self-mulching area that enriches the soil. When choosing mulch, consider sustainability.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of mulch – inorganic and organic. Inorganic mulch is made from synthetic materials like rubber or plastic. In contrast, organic mulch is made from natural materials like bark, leaves, and straw.
\n\n\n\nThe pros and cons of inorganic mulch are:
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, organic mulch has the following pros and cons:
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nSince it provides many benefits to the soil, it’s better to use organic mulch for your Florida yard. While inorganic mulch has its advantages, it does not contribute to soil health in the same way as organic mulch.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The price of mulch varies depending on the type and quantity purchased. On average, a cubic yard of mulch costs around $17 to $68, or approximately $2 to $5.50 per bag. Prices also may differ based on the supplier, location, and quality of the mulch.
\n\n\n\nWith its vast array of water bodies, Florida is home to around 7,800 lakes and over 10,000 miles of streams and rivers. In fact, it has the second-longest coastline in the country. Do your part in safeguarding these natural resources by maintaining a 10-foot low-maintenance zone along the water’s edge.
\n\n\n\nAvoid mowing, fertilizing, or using pesticides in these areas to protect native aquatic plants, such as maidencane and giant bullrush. Additionally, you should remove exotic species like purple loosestrife and water hyacinth because they have invasive growth habits.
\n\n\n\nOther protective measures you can do include:
\n\n\n\nThe benefits of protecting your waterfront include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: You will actually save money by letting nature maintain the 10-foot low-maintenance zone along the water’s edge. But if you need to transplant flood-tolerant trees and plants along the shoreline, the cost can range anywhere from $158 to $880. If you are installing a seawall, expect to pay around $113 to $770 per linear foot.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to preserve water quality, it’s crucial to avoid stormwater runoff that can carry pollutants such as fertilizers, pesticides, and soil debris. This way, you can keep as much rainfall and irrigation water on your property as possible.
\n\n\n\nExamples of what you can do include:
\n\n\n\nThese stormwater control features not only add beauty to the landscape but also reduce pollution and protect the environment by filtering stormwater through plants and soil. The collected water can even be used for irrigation and, at the same time, prevent erosion and maintain a healthy landscape.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Hiring a professional crew to help you create a sustainable landscape that can reduce stormwater runoff may cost between $7 and $11 per foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spraying-pesticide.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nA gardening strategy called Integrated Pest Management (IPM) aims to control pests using minimal chemicals. This technique involves selecting pest-resistant plants and placing them in appropriate locations to prevent disease and insect outbreaks. If a problem arises, remove the affected parts of the plant or physically remove the insects by hand.
\n\n\n\nAvoid over-treating by spot-treating only and using selective, rather than broad-spectrum, insecticides. And remember to always follow the instructions on insecticide labels.
\n\n\n\nThe benefits of managing your yard pests include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of IPM services can vary depending on the type of treatment required and the severity of the pest infestation. Generally, you may have to spend between $7 and $14 per month for each unit.
\n\n\n\nOne important aspect of maintaining a healthy landscape is managing yard waste generated by maintenance activities like raking, mowing, and pruning. Keeping these materials onsite can help conserve nutrients and reduce the energy required for transportation.
\n\n\n\nAs organic matter decomposes, it releases nutrients back into the soil – which plants ultimately absorb. Composting yard waste is an environmentally sustainable method of producing organic fertilizer, which can help enrich the soil and improve plant growth.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, using uncomposted leaves and pine straw as mulch can reduce the need for purchasing mulch, further saving money and resources.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: None – it can even help you save money.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/pipevine-swallowtail-john-flannery-cc20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Flannery / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re interested in attracting more wildlife to your yard, consider designing a landscape that provides food and habitat for various species:
\n\n\n\nBy reducing your use of insecticides, you’ll also help protect native animals and beneficial insects while promoting a healthy ecosystem in your yard. Enjoy the benefits of observing and supporting Florida’s diverse wildlife while enhancing your landscape.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: A bird bath can come in many forms, from a simple $2 ceramic saucer placed on the ground to an extravagant marble one that can set you back $2,000 or more. If you opt for a rain garden, the cost can vary greatly, depending on its size and the number of plants used, ranging from $3 to $15 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nBy following the FFL principles, you can enjoy a beautiful and healthy landscape, as well as these benefits:
\n\n\n\nThe best Florida-friendly turfgrass for your lawn depends on several factors, such as your location, soil type, amount of shade and sun, and maintenance preferences. Some of the most commonly used warm-season grasses in the Sunshine State include St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass.
Each turfgrass has its own advantages and disadvantages, so you must do your research and consult with a local landscape expert to determine which one is best suited for your specific needs. Additionally, choosing a turfgrass that is drought-tolerant and pest-resistant can help reduce water usage and minimize the need for chemical treatments.
Yes, you can use groundcovers instead of turfgrass for your lawn. In fact, using groundcovers is often a more sustainable and Florida-friendly option because they require less water, fertilizer, and pesticides than traditional turfgrass lawns.
Some examples of groundcovers suitable for Florida’s climate include Asiatic jasmine, liriope, and mondo grass. Consider the amount of sunlight and foot traffic in the area, as well as the soil type and moisture level.
Additionally, some HOAs or municipalities may have restrictions on the use of groundcovers, so you must check local regulations and ordinances before making any changes to your lawn.
There are several hurricane-resistant trees that can be planted in Florida to help reduce damage from strong winds and storms. Some of the top hurricane-resistant trees include:
Incorporating Florida-friendly landscaping practices in your outdoor space can help you conserve natural resources while creating a beautiful landscape. Moreover, by minimizing stormwater runoff and reducing pollution, you also can contribute to the health of Florida’s waterways and native wildlife.
\n\n\n\nWith these home landscape ideas, you can transform your garden into a functional and visually appealing environment. Whether you are a seasoned gardener in Miami, St. Augustine, Tampa, Orlando, Pensacola, Jacksonville, or another city in the Sunshine State, these strategies can help you create a landscape that is both practical and eco-friendly.
But if you don’t want to get your hands dirty, consider hiring a landscaping pro to help with your Florida-friendly landscape design.
Main Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare
\n","title":"9 Florida-Friendly Landscaping Ideas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4943960149439601,"src":"/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/1789c/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/107df/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg 320w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/293e9/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg 500w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/f2cbb/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg 800w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/1789c/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg 960w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/c26c2/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/1dd6e/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/67b76/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp 320w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/8df11/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp 500w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/98a65/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp 800w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/1dd6e/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp 960w,\n/static/3c161f55ba18dedb35cd8b257694a411/3cc96/landscape-grass-architecture-sky-lawn-house-486532-pxhere.com-2-2.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Florida-Friendly Landscaping Ideas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Level up your yard with these 9 Florida-friendly landscaping ideas and keep your property safe and beautiful."}}},{"node":{"id":"a4004a53-8114-5035-b3c0-7fc3929c7037","slug":"best-grass-for-arizona","path":"/lawn-care/az/best-grass-for-arizona/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A native of Ohio, Whitney Lehnecker is a career journalist and newspaper designer. She now lives in Central Florida with her husband and two pups, Goose and Bindi.","name":"Whitney Lehnecker","id":"a3d49656-3773-5908-9fcf-716640f40233","path":"/author/whitney-lehnecker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6f7e31a20c84b10fb9f62021b69489e7?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 1st, 2023","excerpt":"The American Southwest evokes images of stunning red rock canyons and cactus bristling with needle-sharp thorns while also bursting with stunning flowers. A lush green lawn? Maybe not so much. But hang on. Yes, grass does in fact grow in the arid desert climate of Arizona, provided you know which varieties do well there and […]
\n","content":"\nThe American Southwest evokes images of stunning red rock canyons and cactus bristling with needle-sharp thorns while also bursting with stunning flowers. A lush green lawn? Maybe not so much.
\n\n\n\nBut hang on. Yes, grass does in fact grow in the arid desert climate of Arizona, provided you know which varieties do well there and take care of your lawn properly. So while your neighbors might instead embrace drought-tolerant xeriscaping that needs little water, if you just can’t live without a lawn, we’ve got a list of the best grasses that grow best in Arizona.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWhat do these grasses have in common? We’ll get into the particulars below, but in general, they handle the heat well and don’t require as much water as other species, which makes them well-suited to the searing, dry desert climate.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the fastest-growing of all the warm-season grasses, making it difficult to control, especially around flower beds or borders. But its fast growth rate means it stands up well to heavy foot traffic. Bermudagrass likes direct sun and needs soil with good drainage, making it ideal for this climate. And best of all, it’s equally well adapted to the low desert valleys of Phoenix and the higher elevations of northern Arizona, around Flagstaff.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Good; can go dormant during extended periods of drought, however
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1½ to 2 ½ inches
\n\n\n\nNote: Bermudagrass goes dormant in the winter and stays dormant longer than other warm-season grasses like Zoysia.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Palmetto-St.-Augustine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nPalmetto St. Augustinegrass is akin to its East Coast cousin, St. Augustinegrass, but is darker and has a finer texture. It does well in all kinds of conditions — shade, cold, heat, and drought – making it an excellent choice for Arizona lawns. It also endures foot traffic reasonably well and doesn’t need a great deal of water – about an inch a week on average.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Good
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Good
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 ½ to 2 ½ inches
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Midiron.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nThe most widely used turf grass in Arizona, Midiron is a tough, durable, medium-textured grass known for its beautiful blue-green color. Midiron is a hybrid Bermudagrass, so it tolerates drought, requires little maintenance, and can withstand a great deal of foot traffic. Although it goes dormant in the winter, it recovers quickly when overseeded, so you can transition back to a green yard as the weather warms up. It also can be planted in hard soils like sand or clay, which are found in abundance here in Arizona.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 inches
\n\n\n\nJust because all these grasses do well in Arizona, doesn’t mean they all work equally well for you. The type of grass you choose also has to do with your lifestyle, your aesthetic, and the amount of effort you are willing to commit to maintaining your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some things to consider:
\n\n\n\nIf you would rather spend more time enjoying life and less time dealing with your lawn, go with midiron.
If so, the only option is Palmetto St. Augustinegrass. All the other grasses struggle in shade.
If you need a lawn that can stand up to heavy foot traffic, choose midiron or Bermudagrass.
With the desert climate in Phoenix, warm-season grasses look beautiful through spring and summer but can leave your lawn brown and unattractive in winter.
\n\n\n\nYou can avoid this by overseeding with cool-season grasses like annual and perennial ryegrass and creeping bentgrass.
\n\n\n\nThe University of Arizona recommends overseeding in October when the daytime temperatures are between 80 degrees and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nNeed help choosing the best grass for your Arizona yard? Contact a local lawn care professional to install and maintain your beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Mcmillin24 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"4 Grasses That Grow Best in Your Arizona Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/1789c/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/107df/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/293e9/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/f2cbb/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/1789c/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/c26c2/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/1dd6e/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/67b76/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/8df11/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/98a65/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/1dd6e/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/06038abca20921bf920dd548b81e7efa/3cc96/Grass-in-Arizona-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Grasses That Grow Best in Your Arizona Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Yearning for a green lawn amid the arid Arizona scenery? It’s actually possible if you start with a grass that thrives in our climate"}}},{"node":{"id":"aa1f8a5e-a3cc-513e-bc2b-c928c3b74445","slug":"when-and-how-to-fertilize-your-lawn","path":"/blog/when-and-how-to-fertilize-your-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Maintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most […]
\n","content":"\nMaintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most of it.
\n\n\n![\"Fertilizers](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_14457202926_6d52aae30a_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to fertilizing your lawn, timing is everything. The answer to the “when” question depends on the following:
\n\n\n\nBut there is one general rule: Don’t feed the lawn during periods of dormancy – only fertilize your grass at the time of year when it grows actively.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of grasses: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses, and both have different growth and fertilization requirements. You have cool-season grass if you live in the northern third of the country and warm-season grass if you live in the southern third. If you live in the middle of the US, you may have either or both types of grass.
\n\n\n\nBut what is the right time to fertilize either of them? Here is the answer:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass grow actively in cooler months. Usually, the grass grows most actively in fall, so the best time to fertilize your lawn is once in early fall and once in late fall, at least 6 weeks before the expected first frost. During these times, the grass is actively developing and can best use the fertilizer’s nutrients.
\n\n\n\nYou can also apply fertilizer to your lawn in early spring because it’s the time when the grass greens up after winter dormancy and has a brief period of growth before the heat of summer sets in. It is the optimal time if you want to apply a third application of fertilizer to your lawn in addition to those done in fall.
\n\n\n![\"Cool](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone-1024x709.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, or Zoysiagrass, have totally different fertilization times. Because they actively grow in the warmer months, late spring and early summer is usually the best time to apply fertilizer. This helps the grass to receive nutrients during its active development phase while remaining lush throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a fall fertilizer application, early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first frost, is also suitable for your warm-season lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can read our guide to the ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to learn more about when to fertilize your lawn.
\n\n\n\nGenerally, apply fertilizer to your lawn two to four times per year. The frequency might vary depending on the type of grass, the makeup of your soil, the local climate of your area, and the type of fertilizer used. Slow-release fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks, so you should wait at least 6 weeks between applications. Immediate-release fertilizers need to be applied more often to remain effective, about every 4-6 weeks.
\n\n\n\nThe most common frequency recommendation for lawn fertilizer application is:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re sure you’ve got the timing right, follow these steps to fertilize your lawn in the best and most efficient way possible.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nBefore applying fertilizer to your lawn, you should do a few things to ensure the best results and minimize any potential harm to your grass or the environment. Preparing your lawn ahead of time will set up the foundation for successful fertilization.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests are like bloodwork for your soil. They describe the type of soil, the level of plant nutrients, and the soil pH, among other things. Get your soil tested by sending a sample to your local county Cooperative Extension office or buy an at-home test kit for quicker but less detailed results.
\n\n\n\nBased on the soil test results, amend your soil to make it adaptable for the turfgrass and fertilizer. Adjust the soil’s pH so that it’s between 6.5 to 7 (ideal for most grass types) by adding lime for lawns to increase the pH or sulfur to decrease the pH.
\n\n\n\nRemove any lawn weeds, moss, or excessive thatch growth in your lawn before fertilizing. Obstacles like these can prevent fertilizer from reaching the soil, which is where it needs to be for your grass to absorb its nutrients.
\n\n\n\nIdeally, you should mow the grass slightly lower than its typical maintenance height before fertilizing. Shorter grass permits the fertilizer to reach the soil more effectively and reduces the possibility of the fertilizer sitting on top of tall blades and causing burn or uneven distribution.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn well for at least three to four days before fertilizing it. Moist soil improves nitrogen uptake and reduces the risk of fertilizer burn. Overwatering, on the other hand, can cause the fertilizer to seep away or become less effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nIt is essential to apply lawn fertilizer carefully to ensure nutrients reach the plant roots and deliver maximum benefits.
\n\n\n\nFirst, choose the right tool according to your lawn’s area and fertilizer type. There are various kinds of fertilizer spreaders, including:
\n\n\n\nFill your chosen tool with fertilizer on a non-grassy, hard surface like a driveway or sidewalk. This keeps spills or excess fertilizer from reaching the grass before you begin, which again reduces the risk of fertilizer burn.
\n\n\n\nStart Applying the Fertilizer: Begin walking across your lawn at a slow, steady pace, pushing the spreader consistently. If you’re using a sprayer, spray a wide arc in front of you, from side to side, as you walk. Then turn around and walk the other way in a line parallel to your first pass. Continue walking back and forth across the lawn in parallel lines until you’ve covered the whole area.
\n\n\n\nTo achieve thorough coverage and eliminate missed spots, overlap each pass slightly. If you’re using a granular fertilizer, check the grass for any prominent clumps or heaps of granules once you’ve finished applying it. Use a sweep or rake to disperse these clumps to ensure even dispersion.
\n\n\n\nNote: After each usage, properly clean your spreader or sprayer. Rinse it with water to remove any residual fertilizer, which can damage the equipment if not removed.
\n\n\n\n![\"close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_150456484_cef7d54b8f_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shaylor / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWatering your lawn after fertilizing is essential for activating the nutrients in the fertilizer and ensuring optimum absorption by the grass’s roots. It is best to water your grass immediately after fertilizing it. This reduces the risk of burn from concentrated nutrients lingering on the grass blades.
\n\n\n\nUse an in-ground sprinkler system or a hose with a sprinkler attachment for even coverage. To avoid overwatering certain areas and underwatering others, make sure the water is distributed evenly across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nNote: If you use liquid fertilizer, wait two to four hours for the fertilizer to dry, and then water your lawn. Don’t water immediately after applying liquid fertilizer because it will wash the fertilizer away before it’s had time to soak into the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"broom](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/broom-for-sweeping-sidewalk-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: undefined undefined / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIn addition to cleaning your spreader or sprayer, it’s important to clean excess fertilizer off impervious surfaces near your grass, such as a driveway or patio. For granular fertilizers, sweep off any granules that may have landed on sidewalks or driveways to prevent runoff into nearby bodies of water. Fertilizer runoff can cause water pollution and harmful algae blooms.
\n\n\n\nBe especially diligent about sweeping up excess fertilizer if you have curious pets or small children in your family who might try to play with or even eat the tiny granules.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer for your lawn is critical. First of all, check your soil’s nutrient requirements through your soil test. Then select a fertilizer with a suitable nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus ratio according to your soil’s needs.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to finding a lawn fertilizer with the right nutrient blend, you’ll need to decide what type of fertilizer is best for your lawn. You’ll have to choose between slow-release and immediate-release fertilizers, synthetic and organic fertilizers, and liquid and granular fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about each of these options and figure out which one is best for you, see our guide on How to Choose Lawn Fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYes, organic fertilizers are an excellent choice for lawn care. They come from natural sources and provide slow-release nutrients that improve soil health and microbial activity. Organic fertilizers are less harmful to the environment and contribute towards eco-friendly lawn care.
\n\n\n\nLook for organic fertilizers designed exclusively for lawns in our guide to organic lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIt’s critical to act quickly if you mistakenly over-fertilize. Thoroughly water the lawn to help dilute and flush out extra nitrogen and other nutrients. Mow as little as possible until the grass recovers, and consider skipping the next scheduled fertilization to let the grass rebalance. If extensive damage develops, such as the grass turning brown, your grass may be dead. Seek the advice of a lawn care specialist to figure out the best path forward.
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat or drought. High heat and dry weather can cause stress on the grass, and fertilization during this time may worsen the stress.
\n\n\n\nRegular fertilization not only improves the general health and appearance of your lawn, but it also increases its resistance to external stressors like severe temperatures and foot traffic. It’s an essential technique contributing to a beautiful, healthy lawn you can enjoy all year. For help keeping up with a regular fertilization schedule, connect with a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn today.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SVproduction / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nTampa offers beachside views and aquatic wildlife for locals and tourists to enjoy. You can enjoy a stroll along Bayshore Boulevard, the United States’ longest continuous sidewalk, before enjoying Tampa’s unique cuisine. With all the bounteous emerald greenery of Tampa’s tropical vegetation, you want a lawn that is just as lush and green.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are the best types of grass in Florida since they are able to withstand hot, muggy days and high humidity. Several types of grasses thrive in Tampa’s hot summers and mild winters.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are the best kinds of grasses for the Sunshine State. They originate from tropical regions, making them perfect for a subtropical climate like Tampa.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. This makes warm-season grasses a perfect fit for the Tampa Bay area, since the climate is hot and humid year-round.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bahia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass boasts a pleasing dark green hue and an extensive root system that helps it survive drought. Bahiagrass flourishes in full sun, though it isn’t so hardy when faced up against a lot of foot traffic or cold weather. Luckily, Florida’s mild winters make it a great fit for Tampa lawns.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is adaptable with nearly any type of soil. However, the drought-tolerant grass does not thrive in areas with salt or saltwater spray, so it’s best for more inland Tampa properties. If your yard is patchy because you have poor soil that is sandy or acidic, you might want to try switching to bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; mow 1-2 times a week and fertilize during peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Resistant to diseases and insects, although dollar spot is common, and bahiagrass may attract bahiagrass billbugs, fall armyworms, or mole crickets.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Poor, sandy, or acidic
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass needs fertilization during the peak growing season. Luckily thatch isn’t a concern with bahiagrass, so you don’t need to dethatch or aerate your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a classy choice for golf courses and commercial properties. Foot traffic doesn’t faze it, as this hardy grass type is built to withstand wear and tear. What does hurt bermudagrass is a lot of shade and cold winter temperatures.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass grows to be a vivid light green color. Hybrid bermudagrass has a fine texture, while the texture of common bermudagrass is usually coarser.
\n\n\n\nA sun-loving grass, bermudagrass is a deep-rooted grass that grows densely quickly. The thickness of the grass acts as a defense against weeds, forming a barrier that chokes them out. Bermudagrass is a high maintenance turf, but it’s durable and able to withstand rough weather conditions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Below-ground rhizomes and above-ground stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor – needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High. Bermudagrass is a fast-growing and invasive grass. It needs to be mowed weekly to keep it from growing in garden beds and fertilized regularly.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance against diseases, although it commonly suffers from diseases such as dollar spot, leaf spot, spring dead spot, and root decline. Bermudagrass has low resistance to insects and may be invaded by pests such as white grubs, armyworms, and webworms.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermudagrass only needs reseeded once a year. It requires regular mowing during the growing season to keep it at its ideal height.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nIf you dream of an evergreen lawn that even persists through the chilly winter months, then buffalograss is the grass for you. Buffalograss is a low-maintenance lawn that keeps its blue-green hue year-round.
\n\n\n\nNative buffalograss thrives in the western and central regions of the Great Plains, but there are new turf-type cultivars that are well adapted for home lawns. Despite being named for the bison that populates North America, buffalograss doesn’t like stampeding herds of visitors, making it bad for heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nIt can tolerate Tampa’s extreme heat and bouts with drought. Avoid planting buffalograss if you have a yard shaded by big big trees. Buffalograss doesn’t require much water, so homeowners have to be careful to avoid overwatering this type of grass. Since it has a more open growth pattern, weeds are always a problem..
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good tolerance against diseases. Although buffalograss has a good tolerance against bugs, it tends to attract chinch bugs, white grubs, webworms, and mealyworms.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Between 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Native soils, not sandy soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Like with most grasses, it takes effort to get buffalograss established in your yard, but once they are established, they should be low maintenance. They don’t typically need dethatching or aeration, and they don’t require much fertilizing.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a low-maintenance grass, centipedegrass is a good choice. Centipedegrass is durable and versatile, as it thrives in acidic and infertile soils with a low pH. It is a slow-growing grass, which means it doesn’t need to be mowed as often as other warm-season grasses. Centipedegrass is not a good grass if you have pets and kids because it doesn’t stand up to foot traffic. But it does hold up well during droughts.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it is an attractive grass, you won’t be the only one who finds centipedegrass appealing. Pests such as nematodes love centipedegrass. It’s also susceptible to fungal diseases and other pesky bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Above-ground stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects; may suffer from iron chlorosis or centipedegrass decline. Nematodes and ground pearl insects are a common insect problem for centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Sandy and infertile soils, silt, loam
\n\n\n\nOther notes: When it is first installed in your yard, centipedegrass will be high-maintenance until it is established in the yard, then it will be low maintenance and not require much care. Centipedegrass can be sensitive to over-fertilizing.
\n\n\n\n![\"bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/saint-augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is the most popular grass found in Florida lawns. Tolerant of heat and shade, St. Augustinegrass is a great fit for any Tampa yard shaded by trees.
\n\n\n\nA native to coastal areas, St. Augustinegrass performs best where there’s salty sea air and high moisture and humidity. Its thick, dark green blades go dormant in the winter and turn brown before returning to their vibrant color in the spring. There are several types of St. Augustinegrass, but there are two primary types: standard and dwarf cultivars.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is used to getting a lot of water, so it will have to be watered often to keep it healthy and happy. But don’t give it too much water or fertilizer because it is susceptible to thatch. St. Augustinegrass grows in dense patches that makes it weed-resistant. And it’s not the best for families with pets or kids, since it doesn’t do well with heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Above-ground stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; St. Augustinegrass grows quickly, so it will need frequent mowings
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; chinch bugs can be a problem with St. Augustinegrass. Nematodes, grubs, and webworms might also plague St. Augustinegrass, and it can suffer from diseases like large patch and gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: St. Augustinegrass can be planted any time of year in Tampa. Prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWhat makes Zoysiagrass so great for Tampa yards is its high salt tolerance. Zoysiagrass can endure some shade, but it thrives if it receives six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a great barefoot grass because it’s so soft to walk on. It’s the perfect grass for your family and pets because it accommodates a lot of rowdy play and outdoor activities while also being soft and comfortable to walk on.
\n\n\n\nIts growth pattern makes it difficult for weeds to take root among the dense, dark green grass blades. However, the dense growth requires weekly mowing during the growing season.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; good disease and insect tolerance overall. Might encounter problems with diseases such as brown patch, gray leaf spot, or take-all root rot. Insects like white grubs, chinch bugs, sod webworms, or mole crickets might pose a threat to zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained soils. Adaptable to almost any kind of soil, from clay to sandy soil.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Although Zoysia is usually low maintenance, it does produce thatch, which requires aeration and dethatching. Zoysiagrass is also a slow starter; new grass takes one to three months before it grows.
\n\n\n\nSeveral types of sun-loving grasses thrive in Tampa, but the best types of grasses for lawns that receive a lot of direct sunlight include St. Augustine, Celebration bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Several types of sun-loving grasses thrive in Tampa, but the best types of grasses for lawns that receive a lot of direct sunlight include St. Augustine, Celebration bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Bermudagrass consumes the least amount of water, which means it doesn’t have to be watered as frequently and it is very drought-resistant. Other types of grass that are drought tolerant and can do well with little water include bahiagrass, centipedegrass, and buffalograss.
Tampa lawns need to withstand hot, humid temperatures and thrive in coastal climates. These varieties thrive in the Tampa Bay area, so you’ll want to consider what type of grass is the right fit for your yard.
\n\n\n\nCreating your perfect yard isn’t just finding the right type of grass for your lawn. There are other ways you can enhance your Tampa yard. Check out our list of low-maintenance landscaping ideas or our list on hurricane-resistant landscaping ideas designed to help your landscaping withstand harsh hurricane weather.
\n\n\n\nDon’t wait to install new sod. Contact a Tampa lawn care pro today so that you can have the lawn of your dreams.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Free Nature Stock / Canva / License
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Tampa, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/1789c/Lawn-Grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/107df/Lawn-Grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/293e9/Lawn-Grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/f2cbb/Lawn-Grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/1789c/Lawn-Grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/c26c2/Lawn-Grass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/1dd6e/Lawn-Grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/67b76/Lawn-Grass.webp 320w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/8df11/Lawn-Grass.webp 500w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/98a65/Lawn-Grass.webp 800w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/1dd6e/Lawn-Grass.webp 960w,\n/static/e0fc68b5973cfd4b2aa279303bd46e64/3cc96/Lawn-Grass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Tampa, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Are you looking to get a new lawn? There are several types of warm-season grasses that are perfect for Tampa’s humid climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"d9cce5a6-995d-5a53-bba2-372ecd6563c2","slug":"low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-phoenix","path":"/lawn-care/az/phoenix/low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-phoenix/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"90f74182-5f0d-5dd3-8d32-576a5a21d01d","name":"Phoenix","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/phoenix/"}],"date":"April 17th, 2023","excerpt":"When you live in Phoenix, you don’t want to spend weekends taking care of your lawn in the scorching Sonoran Desert. Yet at the same time, no one wants a patch of bare earth surrounding their house. You’re in the right place if you’re trying to find a balance between low-maintenance and curb appeal. We’ve […]
\n","content":"\nWhen you live in Phoenix, you don’t want to spend weekends taking care of your lawn in the scorching Sonoran Desert. Yet at the same time, no one wants a patch of bare earth surrounding their house. You’re in the right place if you’re trying to find a balance between low-maintenance and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nWe’ve come up with a list of low-maintenance landscaping ideas to create a beautiful yard while reducing the time you spend outside maintaining it!
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Xeriscaping](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Xeriscaping-Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simeon87 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nXeriscaping is a popular landscaping trend in Western desert climates, so chances are you’ve heard of the idea if you’ve lived in Phoenix for any length of time. But if you haven’t heard of it, it’s an adaptive landscape design that uses little or no water beyond natural rainfall.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners love a xeriscape‘s environmental sustainability and its benefits. Here are some general ideas:
\n\n\n\nDon’t be discouraged if you can’t transform your entire landscape with xeriscaping in one fell swoop. Start small by replacing one flower bed with a decorative rock garden accented with succulents or replacing a thirsty non-native tree with a cactus. As you can, continue with the change until your entire yard doesn’t need supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: It costs about $5 to $20 per square foot to xeriscape. However, it is estimated xeriscaping saves you about $0.36 per square foot yearly in watering costs.
\n\n\n\n![\"plants](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Succulent-Garden.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAdding cacti and other succulent plants is a great way to make your landscaping low-maintenance. FYI: cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti.
\n\n\n\nSucculents are plants that have adapted to desert life and low rainfall amounts by storing water in their stems and leaves. Many types have thick, fleshy leaves or engorged stems filled with sap that hold moisture, but not all do. One of the best parts (depending on how you look at it) is that most succulents hate wet soil and will die if you try to water them.
\n\n\n\nPlus, succulents come in a fantastic variety of shapes, sizes, and colors to fit every landscape design.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of succulents:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The price of succulents depends on the size and type of plant, ranging from $5 to more than $100 per plant at your local Lowe’s or Home Depot. Saguaro cacti can run anywhere from $100 to $4,000 or $5,000, depending on the size and number of arms.
\n\n\n\n![\"Firecracker](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Firecracker-penstemon.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAnother great low-maintenance landscaping option is to include plants native to the Sonoran Desert in your landscape. Native plants have always been in an area and weren’t introduced from somewhere else. They have adapted to thrive in the local desert over time so that they can flourish in your yard with little care.
\n\n\n\nThere are many Arizona native plants for you to choose from, but here are a few popular ones:
\n\n\n\nNote: For more information on the best native plants for Phoenix, check out our article.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: How much you spend depends on the exact type and the plant size, but ballpark prices are $600 to $3,000 for a new flower bed, $25 to $50 per new shrub, or $150 to $3,000 per new tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"Blanket](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Blanket-Flower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPlants are designated as perennials or annuals, depending on their lifecycle. Annuals with beautiful, colorful flowers are commonly seen at big box stores and garden supply centers. But they only live for a single season and die after they flower, and temperatures drop in the winter.
\n\n\n\nPerennials, however, can withstand the cooler winter temperatures and bloom year after year. Since they last for several years, or even decades, they require considerably less maintenance than annuals that need replanting yearly.
\n\n\n\nGreat heat-tolerant perennials for Phoenix:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of perennials:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of perennial plants varies widely depending upon the type of plants you choose, where you purchase them, and if you plant them yourself or hire a landscape contractor to do the work. If you go the DIY route, expect to spend about $10 to $60 per plant.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Rock-Garden-Wall.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Public Domain Pictures
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA low-maintenance landscape with minimal flowers will reduce the time you spend sweating in the garden. However, a low-maintenance yard doesn’t mean a dull, empty space without any visual interest. You can easily create an oasis with hardscaping elements.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are features in your yard that aren’t green, living things. They are permanent, unchanging, man-made structures. The following offer limitless options for designing a space you’ll love while boosting curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nThe best part about hardscapes is they don’t require maintenance like turfgrass and plants. You don’t have to worry about mowing, fertilizing, watering, or weeding, thus cutting down on the time you spend caring for your landscape. However, the initial costs can be expensive, but you’ll save in the long run.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Expect to spend approximately $2,500 to $6,000 for a new patio, $5,000 to $11,000 for a new composite deck, $250 to $3,000 for a new fire pit, or $2,000 to $9,000 for a new pergola. Stone paver projects cost about $10 to $30 per square foot to install, depending on the type of stone.
\n\n\n\n![\"Creeping](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Creeping-Red-Thyme.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Own Herby talk thyme / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI get it. Sometimes you want to look out the kitchen window and see a thick green carpet of grass. How about switching that traditional turf out for a low-maintenance ground cover? You’ll still get a look similar to a green lawn while saving yourself from mowing grass in the scorching sun.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are a group of plants that usually only grow a few inches tall. Once planted, they spread quickly to fill in space and can create the look of a lawn.
\n\n\n\nThese heat-loving, drought-tolerant ground covers are great for Phoenix.
\n\n\n\nRemember that ground covers are still plants, so they may need irrigating and will benefit from occasional fertilization to keep them looking their best. They are still much less work than grass, though.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of ground covers:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Replacing your turf with ground cover costs $3.50 to $12.50 per square foot, depending on the type of ground cover plant you choose. Expect to spend more if you need to remove your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Artificial-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Nick Bastian / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf the idea of a living ground cover still sounds like too much work, yet you still want to see green, consider installing artificial turf. Don’t worry! Your yard won’t look like a football field! Artificial turf has made significant advances, and some styles are designed to look like specific grass types. With a bit of research, you can choose something that is hard to tell that it isn’t real grass!
\n\n\n\nArtificial turf is great in many ways, but let’s take a minute and talk about the downsides. First, artificial turf is expensive to install, and it can damage the soil underneath it, which may have adverse effects. However, some studies show the environmental impact is no more significant than those associated with traditional turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of artificial turf:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional installation of artificial turf costs anywhere from $5.50 to $19 per square foot, depending on the type you choose and your yard’s shape.
\n\n\n\n![\"Plants](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Plants-with-Mulch.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners are familiar with mulch and use it in their landscapes. Mulch is a loose material spread on the ground to help retain soil moisture, keep weeds at bay, and protect the plant’s roots from temperature extremes. Using it in planting beds is an easy, inexpensive way to reduce maintenance needs.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to mulch, there are many different options, including some organic and some inorganic. Organic mulches offer a more traditional look, but products like woodchips and pine straw must be replaced as they break down over time. When they decompose, they do add nutrients to the soil, which is a benefit. Gravel and rubber nuggets are great inorganic options because they have a long lifespan.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of mulch varies depending on the type. When buying by the bag, expect to pay $2 to $5 per 2-cubic-foot bag for wood mulch. Rubber mulch runs $7 to $10 per 0.8-cubic-foot bag. Landscape rock differs a lot more in price, ranging from $5 to $45 per 0.5-cubic-foot bag. (Pricing based on products at Lowe’s and Home Depot). You can buy it in bulk to save money if you need a lot of mulch.
\n\n\n\nLiving in the Arizona desert doesn’t mean spending hours and hours taking care of grass or having a dusty, dry patch of dirt for a lawn. Many different low-maintenance landscaping options will give you a beautiful yard, even in Phoenix! Hopefully, this helps give you some great ideas on creating a space you love that doesn’t require all your free time.
\n\n\n\nBut we also understand that even a few minutes outside in the hot summer sun can feel miserable. If you’d rather hire someone to do the work, check out the services our local lawn care pros offer in Phoenix and surrounding areas.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Desert Botanical Garden / Simeon87 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"Low-Maintenance Landscaping Tips for Phoenix, Arizona","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/1789c/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/107df/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg 320w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/293e9/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg 500w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/f2cbb/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg 800w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/1789c/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg 960w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/c26c2/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/1dd6e/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/67b76/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp 320w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/8df11/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp 500w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/98a65/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp 800w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/1dd6e/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp 960w,\n/static/6d7d8a5b0ecb29f0f544a0ec9c7652d6/3cc96/Desert-Botanical-Garden-Phoenix-Arizona.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Low-Maintenance Landscaping Tips for Phoenix, Arizona | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"You don't have to melt in the Arizona sun to have a great yard. Get an amazing yard without much effort with these low-maintenance landscaping ideas"}}},{"node":{"id":"f3cedee9-3f12-5780-b5e8-eb8974ca3926","slug":"diy-hydroseeding","path":"/blog/diy-hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Are you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY […]
\n","content":"\nAre you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated. Let’s go over the steps.
\n\n\nAlso called hydraulic mulch seeding, hydroseeding is simply the process of seeding with a slurry mixture of seeds, water, mulch, and fertilizer. It has a slew of benefits, such as faster seed germination and a more uniform look.
\n\n\n\nThe slurry is sprayed with hydroseeding equipment or a pump. You can also buy a do-it-yourself hydroseeding kit that comes with the slurry ingredients and its own sprayer.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou need the following tools and materials for your hydroseeding project:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe very first step is planning out the specifics of your hydroseed slurry: the types of seeds you want to plant and the mulch that you’ll be using.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to seed grass types that match your area’s climate: cool-season grasses for the North and warm-season grasses down South. With hydroseeding, you can plant multiple types of grass instead of just one. Some people blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue, for example.
\n\n\n\nThere are many types of mulch that homeowners can use in their hydroseed slurries. Each one has its own pros and cons. Here are some of these mulch types:
\n\n\n\nFinding out the condition of your soil before you plant new seeds is a good move; it will tell you if the soil needs any amendments to ensure the most optimal growing conditions for your new grass. A soil test — either from a lab or from a home testing kit — will tell you your soil’s pH level and what nutrients it has.
\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. You can add lime if your soil is too acidic; add sulfur if it’s too alkaline. Any number outside of this pH range can cause your grass to grow poorly or even die.
\n\n\n\nUsing the soil test results, you can also determine what fertilizer to add to your hydroseed slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow it’s time to prepare your lawn for hydroseeding. The first step is clearing your lawn, as hydroseeding is most successful when applied to bare soil. Clear your lawn of existing grass (dead or alive), old plants, weeds, rocks, tools, toys, and other debris.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNext, you should mark any sprinkler heads around your lawn. This is especially important if you’re lugging around a heavy hydroseeding machine.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a sprinkler system but want to install one, you should do it while you’re prepping your lawn and before spraying the slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grading](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Grading-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JulNichols / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrading the soil is simply the process of adjusting its slope to prevent rainwater and runoff from getting to your house and other structures. When grading soil, it also gets leveled.
\n\n\n\nTo prepare your lawn for hydroseeding, grade your soil 2 ½ to 3 inches below the final grade you want it to be. The final grade is how high you want your lawn to be. Afterward, fill in holes and level your lawn with a rake and/or a yard leveler.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe next step is adding your soil additives: topsoil, compost, and sulfur or lime (if needed). The first two components stimulate healthy grass growth mainly because they supply your growing grass with nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAdd enough topsoil and compost so that it adds about 3 inches to your lawn’s grade. Then, churn it into the existing soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time to re-grade and level your lawn to the final grade you want it to have. It’s now ready to be hydroseeded!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo you have a hydroseeder? Chances are that the average homeowner doesn’t have one. In that case, you have three options: renting a hydroseeder, making one yourself, or buying a hydroseeding kit in-store or online. Buying a hydroseeding kit is not a bad option if you need to seed a smaller area.
\n\n\n\nYou can rent a hydroseeding machine for covering large areas from equipment rental companies like United Rentals, Sunbelt Rentals, and MacAllister Rentals.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather make your own hydroseeder, this video tutorial will show you how:
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your hydroseeding equipment, it’s time to mix your slurry. If you have a DIY hydroseeding kit, you only need to read the instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow much of each slurry component you need depends heavily on the size of the area you’ll be spraying. Typically, you’ll need 5 to 7 lbs of seed, 40 to 50 lbs of mulch, and 20 lbs of fertilizer for every 1,000 sq. ft. you’ll be hydroseeding. You’ll need enough water to fill your equipment about ¾ of the way. When in doubt, ask your materials supplier for guidance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding machines can vary in how they’re operated; always read the manual for specific instructions. However, you can expect this general process:
\n\n\n\nNow, it’s time to spray your lawn. It’s best to spray when it’s calm and cool outside, but it’s ok if it’s predicted to rain lightly that day. Wear your protective equipment before spraying, as you might be out in the sun for a while.
\n\n\n\nPlan your path ahead of time to prevent you from having to step on the areas you’ve just sprayed. Keep the nozzle at least 3 inches from the ground and spray slowly and evenly throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou might want to overlap your slurry a little bit while you spray. This ensures there aren’t any gaps that will result in bare patches later on. You can make this easier for yourself if you add lawn-friendly dye to your slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"hydroseeded](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCongratulations, you’ve now hydroseeded your lawn! However, this is only the beginning. You’ll need to maintain your new grass for it to grow into a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few hydroseeded lawn maintenance tips:
\n\n\n\nJust like when you’re planting grass seeds the old-fashioned way, the best time to hydroseed is during your chosen grass type’s growing season.
\n\n\n\nFor Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, you should hydroseed in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses, and other cool-season grasses should be hydroseeded from late summer to early fall.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can hydroseed in the summer, it can be a bit more challenging as you must keep your new lawn moist for the first few weeks, and water tends to evaporate in the hot summer sun before it can soak into the soil and reach the grass’s roots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to grow new grass in a larger area, then you should hydroseed. If you’re filling in bare patches, then it’s better to overseed the regular way. The hydroseed slurry can injure or kill your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOn average, the cost of professional hydroseeding ranges from 8 to 20 cents per square foot. The rate will depend on many factors, including your lawn’s condition and how big it is.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated and can make for an interesting project to tackle. You could save money on labor, too. However, it can be more beneficial to hire a professional because they have the knowledge and the equipment to hydroseed your lawn already. Besides, a pro will usually be more successful at hydroseeding than the average homeowner.
Wikilawn can connect you with dependable lawn care pros that can hydroseed, fertilize, and mow your lawn for you. Hire a lawn maintenance pro near you today for a lush lawn without all the work.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
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