![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Columbus is known for the Ohio Statehouse, a love of football, its arts scene – and unpredictable weather. While it’s hard to compete with Scioto Mile’s perfect green spaces, transforming your Arch City yard into a lush oasis isn’t as hard as it sounds. We’ve put together eight spring lawn care tips for Columbus to […]
\n","content":"\nColumbus is known for the Ohio Statehouse, a love of football, its arts scene – and unpredictable weather. While it’s hard to compete with Scioto Mile’s perfect green spaces, transforming your Arch City yard into a lush oasis isn’t as hard as it sounds.
\n\n\n\nWe’ve put together eight spring lawn care tips for Columbus to help you understand your lawn’s needs in the spring so it can thrive year-round.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nTo enjoy a fresh, healthy lawn in the summer, you’ll need to hit the ground running in the spring. This is when your lawn responds to nature’s wake-up call after a long, cold Columbus winter.
\n\n\n\nFrom mowing, watering, and fertilizing to treating lawn diseases, springtime lawn care is important if you want to enjoy a thick carpet of green come summer.
\n\n\n\nBy tackling a few tasks early, you’ll help your lawn defend itself against potential diseases, drought, and pests. With the proper maintenance, not only will your lawn burst with health, but it will seriously boost your curb appeal and make you the envy of your neighborhood.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf it’s springtime, it’s preparation time. Before the grass begins to grow, you’ll want to make sure your lawn equipment is in perfect working condition.
\n\n\n\nHere are some key maintenance checks you should perform sooner rather than later:
\n\n\n\nMaintenance makes a big difference, so get your tools ready ahead of time and have a stress-free summer.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lab](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Soil-Fertility-Analysis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alandmanson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFull, lush lawns can be a beautiful sight, but a lot goes into achieving and maintaining them. If yours isn’t exactly thriving, your soil could be the problem.
\n\n\n\nDepending on each yard, soil composition and acidity levels can differ. By conducting a soil test, you’ll be able to pinpoint soil nutrient needs. Specifically, you’ll get information on soil pH, cation exchange capacity, lime requirement index, and base saturation.
\n\n\n\nPlus, you’ll find out how much phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) your soil contains and whether you need to add soil amendments.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_33362501875_0d0e78d669_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn early spring, there is still enough rain to keep your lawn moist and healthy. Consider watering your lawn when you notice the first signs of grass growth. Once you start, make sure your cool-season grass gets around 1 inch of water per week. Balance is essential, and it’s best to let your lawn guide you.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also incredibly important to let your lawn dry between waterings. Too much water can invite fungal disease, weeds, and pests, something neither your lawn nor you will appreciate. While flowers and other landscape plants can handle everyday watering, don’t include your lawn in this schedule.
\n\n\n\nWatering deeply, but more infrequently, will lead to stronger root development and drought-resistance than doing so briefly every day.
\n\n\n\nSigns of an overwatered lawn:
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering won’t do your lawn any favors either. Not keeping up with regular watering will leave your turf looking dry and unhealthy. Your grass will turn gray or tan, and it will have imprints when you walk on it.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to water your lawn is before 10 a.m., preferably around 5 or 6 a.m. Your grass will be able to absorb the moisture before it evaporates. In the afternoon, try to water between 4 and 6 p.m. Watering late at night will make your lawn more susceptible to disease, as the moisture will just sit on your grass overnight.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhile lawn mowing is an actual ritual for some homeowners, there’s a certain technique involved.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend waiting until your grass is at least 2 inches tall. Our table below shows the recommended cutting heights for Columbus cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n| Grass type | Recommended height |
| Tall fescue | 3 – 3 ½ inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 ½ inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 ½ inches |
| Fine fescue | 2 ½ – 4 inches |
Once mowing season kicks off, follow these simple rules for a healthy lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Chickweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chickweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nChances are you love making good use of your Columbus lawn. What’s not so great? Those annoying weeds that seem to pop up out of nowhere. They’re an eyesore and embarrassment.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll definitely want to get rid of them as soon as they shoot up, but how do you go about it? We provide a couple of ways you can control pesky, deceiving weeds that masquerade as flowers.
\n\n\n\nIf cool-season weeds have taken up residence on your property, you’ll have to invest in post-emergent herbicide. Apply this solution in March or early April and keep in mind that it only targets weeds that have already germinated. It doesn’t work as a preventative measure.
\n\n\n\nFor that, look into a pre-emergent herbicide that targets weed seedlings. Apply it around Mid-March to get ahead of early spring and summer weeds.
\n\n\n\nAlso important to note is the difference between annual and perennial weeds.
\n\n\n\nAnnual cool-season weeds won’t bother you in the warmer months and generally die before you have to take action. On the flip side, perennial weeds are stubborn and stick around for longer, so investing in pre- or post-emergent herbicides will be necessary in this case.
\n\n\n\nSome of the most common annual and perennial weed types in Columbus include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilization helps your grass grow evenly and efficiently and reduces the likelihood of weeds. It supplies your soil with three important nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Each nutrient serves a different purpose.
\n\n\n\n| Nutrient | Key Benefits |
| Nitrogen | • Helps rapid growth and protein synthesis • Increases leaf development for dense lawns |
| Phosphorus | • Helps early root growth • Promotes plant maturity and seed development |
| Potassium | • Increases drought and disease resistance |
Fertilize your Columbus lawn in early to mid spring when your grass begins to grow. This is typically around March or April, when temperatures reach and stay around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In the early stages of grass growth, when shoots are tender, it’s important to fertilize more lightly. Once grass is actively growing, you can go in with a well-balanced fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYou also need to think about what kind of fertilizer you want to use for your yard. Controlled-release fertilizers are granular beads that release nutrients over a period of six to eight weeks. Quick-release fertilizers can be a liquid concentrate or water-soluble beads that act as soon as they’re watered.
\n\n\n\nTake a look at some advantages and disadvantages of both:
\n\n\n\n| Factors | Controlled-release | Quick-release |
| Advantages | • No toxic buildup on the soil • Helps with water movement and soil structure • Introduces beneficial soil microbes • Safer to use around children and pets | • Lower cost • Highly concentrated • Acts faster • Higher nutrient ratio |
| Disadvantages | • Lower concentrations of nutrients • Takes longer to absorb • Costs more | • Can cause more toxic buildup • Made from synthetic materials • Can pollute groundwater |
Fertilizer can be organic or synthetic and selecting the right one for your lawn is vital. Below, we’ve outlined the pros and cons:
\n\n\n\n| Factors | Organic fertilizer | Synthetic fertilizer |
| Advantages | • Doesn’t burn lawns • Slow and steady nutrient release • Contains many trace minerals and balanced nutrition for your grass • Improves soil health | • More commonly available • Formulas made for exact lawn needs • Acts quickly • Costs less |
| Disadvantages | • Less nutrient release in cooler temperatures • Costs more • Dependent on microorganisms in the soil • Can cause harmful runoff | • Shorter lifespan • Can deteriorate soil • Can burn lawn • May cause chemical runoff |
How to fertilize your lawn? It’s easier than you think. Run a spreader around the perimeter of your lawn first and then go over the rest of it, slightly overlapping each pass.
\n\n\n\nThe perks? You won’t have to worry about dirty hands and the fertilizer will be spread evenly.
\n\n\n\n![\"Fall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Fall-Armyworm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: uacescomm / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawn pests. We hate them and want them gone. But they’re stubborn and make it that much harder to achieve the perfect lawn most homeowners dream of.
\n\n\n\nIn Columbus, some of the most common springtime pests include grubs, sod webworms, billbugs, chinch bugs, and cutworms. Read on to find out how to identify them and get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nGrubs
\n\n\n\nWhat are they and how do you identify them? Grubs are the larval stage of different beetle species. As the name implies, they literally grub your grass and attack it at the root level, killing it. When the root system is compromised, grass can’t absorb nutrients and water, leading to severe damage.
\n\n\n\nGrubs are visible to the eye and have a white or brown body that curls into a C shape if bothered. If you notice beetles flying around, it’s a good sign that you have a grub infestation.
\n\n\n\nPlus, you’ll likely see irregular dead spots on your lawn and an increase in animal activity on your property. Raccoons, skunks, and birds like to feed on grub worms – which, if you think about it, is a great eradication method.
\n\n\n\nWays to get rid of them: In addition to limiting moisture, you can introduce beneficial nematodes to your lawn. It can take a few years to establish a colony large enough to eradicate grubs, but you won’t have to treat your lawn with chemicals.
\n\n\n\nAnother way is to apply milky spore, a bacteria that also takes a while to develop, but which is deadly to grubs. As a last resort, you can turn to pesticides – the lower the toxicity level, the better.
\n\n\n\nSod webworms
\n\n\n\nWhat are they and how do you identify them? Sod webworms are lawn-damaging caterpillars. They’re the immature larval stage of various moth types. They appear as small, white, or tan in color, with snout-like projections on their heads. They generally cling to grass blades and can be found with their heads pointing down and their wings rolled tight.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll know you have an infestation if you notice moths flying away as you mow. Moreover, your grass will appear brown and short in certain areas.
\n\n\n\nWays to get rid of them: Water regularly and keep thatch at an optimal level, to avoid stresses on your lawn. You can also use beneficial nematodes or insecticidal soap to kill this pest. Lastly, you can apply low-toxicity pesticides.
\n\n\n\nBillbugs
\n\n\n\nWhat are they and how do you identify them? Billbugs are particularly troublesome, as both the larvae and adults can damage grass. Adult billbugs chew holes in the grass blades and deposit eggs inside. When they hatch, the larvae start damaging the root system and kill the grass from the inside out.
\n\n\n\nThese insects are a type of weevil and can grow up to ½ inch in length. Their hard shells range in color from brown to near black and have a pitted texture. The larvae are white with reddish-brown heads.
\n\n\n\nDamage in this case is hard to diagnose. Grass turns brown, but can be mistaken for drought damage, fungal disease, or simply grass dormancy. Test an affected area by pulling out some grass. If billbugs are the culprit, the grass will break off at the soil line and will be accompanied by sawdust-like excrement.
\n\n\n\nWays to get rid of them: Billbug treatment calls for multiple approaches. Target adult billbugs in early spring before they lay their eggs and kill off newly-hatched larvae before they have a chance to wreak havoc on your lawn. Also, maintain your lawn height to reduce the ideal habitat for billbugs and treat your lawn with pesticides if needed.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs
\n\n\n\nWhat are they and how do you identify them? Chinch bugs are tiny insects that are difficult to spot due to their size. These pests are red in color when they’re young, but turn black as they mature. They also have a white spot on their back in the shape of an ‘X.’ They love St. Augustinegrass and usually live in the thatch layer.
\n\n\n\nChinch bug damage can look like lawn disease, with the grass turning brown in patches, but it’s important to never rule out a possible chinch bug infestation.
\n\n\n\nWays to get rid of them: If you suspect chinch bugs are damaging your lawn, it’s recommended that you contact a professional. Homeowners can have a difficult time getting rid of them on their own. Worse, these insects are known to develop a resistance to pesticides and overcome resistance in the host plant itself.
\n\n\n\nCutworms
\n\n\n\nWhat are they and how do you identify them? Cutworms are general feeders that can damage a wide range of plants. They are smooth, with some hairs, and a length of about 2 inches when fully grown. Different species have different colors, from brown or tan to pink, green, gray, or black. Some larvae are shiny, while others are dull.
\n\n\n\nThey curl their bodies around turfgrass blades or plant stems and feed on them. They’re most active in the evening or at night and hide in debris during the day. Adult moths don’t do damage.
\n\n\n\nWays to get rid of them: If you discover damage or larvae, you can opt for non-toxic removal methods, such as plucking and crushing the insects or dropping them in soapy water. Furthermore, you can try a wash of bleach-free dish soap or apply organic pesticides.
\n\n\n\nBy keeping up with your lawn care maintenance, you’ll have an easier time squashing any pest problem early. Otherwise, you’ll come up against a damaged lawn and pesky insects that can make spending time outdoors a nightmare.
\n\n\n\nIf you have to use pesticides, stay away from catch-all types that also kill beneficial insects. Instead, go for selective pesticides that act in a targeted way.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawn diseases can destroy your yard and cause incredible damage to your grass. If your turf is looking patchy, discolored, or just ‘off,’ lawn disease may be the culprit.
\n\n\n\nResidents of Columbus regularly deal with abnormally cool periods, intense heat, humidity, overcast skies, and drought, all factors that contribute to fungal growth. A susceptible lawn will easily succumb to disease pathogens, so it’s important to know what you’re dealing with.
\n\n\n\nWatch out for the following five types affecting Columbus cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nBrown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani)
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch:
\n\n\n\nDollar Spot (Sclerotinia homoeocarpa)
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nGray Leaf Spot (Magnaporthe oryzae)
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nPowdery mildew (Erysiphe graminis)
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat powdery mildew:
\n\n\n\nFairy Ring (Soil borne Basidiomycete fungi)
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat fairy ring:
\n\n\n\nTypically, the fertilizer and soil should be moist, but don’t water so much that puddles begin to form on your grass. About 20 minutes should be enough to avoid washing away the nutrients and carrying away the fertilizer itself. It can contaminate groundwater and nearby streams or ponds.
What are some of the biggest lawn care mistakes to watch out for?
If you’re a homeowner, you’re likely eager to care for your lawn yourself. But there are some things you should know before you start.
• Avoid leaving clippings on your lawn after mowing, as this may kill your grass.
• The best time for aeration and seeding is during the growing season of your particular grass type. Find out when that is and you’ll be good to go.
• Don’t cut your grass with dull lawn mower blades, as they can rip and shred your grass and decrease moisture.
• Don’t over or under water your turf – the former will carry away nutrients and increase the risk of disease, while the latter will dry out your grass.
• Don’t forget to fertilize. Without fertilizer, your grass won’t grow as healthy or green.
If your grass is turning brown and dying despite your best efforts, it may be a result of disease or pests setting up camp. It also may be affected by drought and improper fertilization. Identifying the exact cause will help you find a solution fit for the problem.
Columbus cool-season grasses produce beautiful lawns that can survive the region’s fluctuations in temperature. With some targeted springtime lawn care, you’ll be worry-free for the rest of the year and have a lush, healthy carpet of grass at your disposal.
Still, if lawn care is more of a chore than a hobby, hire a Columbus lawn care pro to take your yard to the next level and free up time for other activities.
Main Photo Credit: Topiary Garden / Slowking4 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.5
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\n","content":"\nSpring doesn’t always feel like spring in Cleveland, where temperatures can vary wildly and you might have to deal with the fluffy white stuff as late as April.
\n\n\n\nBut if you want a great lawn this summer and deep into the fall, this is the time to put the work in. Here are our 13 tips to turn your Cleveland lawn into a mini heaven.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Rake debris, remove dead plants, and clear fallen branches to help your lawn breathe more effectively. Removing debris also removes the barriers that block your grass from getting the nutrients it needs. Raking can split your grass blades, promoting straight grass growth.
\n\n\n\nAnd let’s face it, a yard without debris looks better any day. It also gives you a blank canvas for mowing, fertilizing, and performing other lawn activities.
\n\n\n\nNote: It’s nearly impossible to avoid thatch altogether as it keeps building up. Thatch less than an inch in thickness isn’t an issue and can actually be beneficial to your lawn as it provides nutrients for grass growth, protects the grass from damage, and helps preserve moisture in the soil.
\n\n\n\nIf there’s too much thatch on your lawn and raking doesn’t seem to help, dethatching is the solution.
\n\n\n\nAlright, but what’s thatch? Thatch is the grass clippings and leaves that accumulate in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAs mentioned above, thatch less an inch in thickness can be good for your lawn. But anything more than that can be too much because excessive thatch can attract pests, cause diseases, and deprive your grass of nutrients.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is necessary before aerating it. But even if your yard doesn’t need aerating, we recommend you dethatch it at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat’s the best time to dethatch lawns
\n\n\n\nYou should dethatch your lawn when the grass is actively growing. The best time to dethatch cool-season grass is from late summer to early fall. If you have warm-season grass, you can dethatch it between late spring and early summer.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland struggle with diseased lawns. Fungus loves Cleveland’s humid climate, which is why the city ranks No. 3 among the worst U.S. cities for weeds and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe beginning of spring is the best time for fungi to attack your lawn, so, take these precautionary steps to eliminate fungi at their source.
\n\n\n\nHere are the common Cleveland lawn diseases you should be aware of.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nPythium blight appears as small circular patches about a foot in diameter. The infected grasses show up as cottony white material. They appear clearly when the grass is wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium blight
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn, then treat it with a fungicide that includes mefenoxam or propamocarb.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nBrown patch appears as circular brownish-yellow patches between a few inches and several feet in diameter. Tall fescue grasses are more susceptible to brown patch than other grasses.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch
\n\n\n\nYou can use a fungicide that includes PCNB, propiconazole, triadimefon, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl as one of its active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nRed thread appears as pinkish-red patches that can be anywhere between two inches and two feet in diameter. They won’t usually kill your grass but can increase the susceptibility of your lawn to other diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat red thread
\n\n\n\nApply nitrogen fertilizer, water the grass, and mow your lawn. You may also apply fungicides, but they won’t be effective if you don’t maintain your yard correctly, as the disease will most likely return.
\n\n\n\nWell, you have treated lawn diseases and removed debris from your lawn. That’s great! But, if your grass still looks thin and has unattractive patches, you may have to overseed your yard.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is the process of spreading grass seeds over your existing lawn to improve grass density and fill in the patches. You should overseed your yard after aerating or dethatching it as it increases the access to soil.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland prefer cool-season grasses because of the climate, and early fall is the best time to plant cool-season grass seeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen you plant grass seeds in early fall, they get about three months to grow before winter starts. When spring kicks in, the soil temperature increases, thus accelerating the growth of grass. Before summer, the grass will have strongly established its roots to handle the stress.
\n\n\n\nLast but not least, ensure the newly planted grass seeds get sufficient water and fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: If only a few bare patches are in your yard, it may be because of a pest. So, before you overseed, ensure that a lawn pest isn’t causing the issue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Test-your-Soil.jpg\")
You should test your soil to know whether it contains the essential nutrients for your grass. You may test the soil yourself using a DIY kit or send it to the local soil testing laboratories.
\n\n\n\nMany Cleveland homeowners tend to test their soil before fertilizing their lawns. It’s a good practice to test your soil at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nDepending on the soil test result, add amendments such as potassium, magnesium, calcium, or phosphorus to your soil. Also, if you plan to fertilize, wait for at least four to five weeks so the fertilizer and amendments won’t negatively interact with each other.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn as your grass turns green and starts growing. This is typically in early spring (between March and April). You should avoid fertilizing too early, especially if you have cool-season grass, as it can promote rapid growth, which is bad for your yard.
\n\n\n\nYour soil test will tell you what kind of slow-release fertilizer to purchase. Generally, most fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in different percentages, as they are essential nutrients for plant growth.
\n\n\n\nFast-release fertilizers can make your grass grow quicker, but they can damage it. Sometimes, they can even burn it. Also, don’t spread fertilizers by hand. Instead, use a spreader to apply them evenly.
\n\n\n\nThe general recommendation is to fertilize your yard four times a year with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Here’s how to calculate how many pounds of fertilizer your lawn needs.
\n\n\n\nThis formula may sound complex, but it’s easy when you apply it practically. Make sure not to overfertilize your lawn, as it can damage the grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Equipment.jpg\")
Winter has come to an end. Spring has begun. Now it’s time to get your lawn mower and other equipment ready to bring your yard back into shape.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a checklist to bring your lawn mower back to form.
\n\n\n\nFollow these steps to sharpen your lawn mower blade.
\n\n\n\nDon’t forget to check if your hedge trimmer blades are sharp enough and weed eater has enough line.
\n\n\n\nTurn on your lawn mower and start mowing your lawn as soon as you notice your grass has hit 2 inches of height.
\n\n\n\nThe mowing height depends on your grass type. Here’s the recommended mowing height for common grasses in Cleveland.
\n\n\n\n| Grass type | Recommended height |
| Fine fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 1 ½ – 2 ½ inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 ½ – 3 inches |
Follow these tips for a perfect mow.
\n\n\n\nToo much or too little water can both harm your lawn. Overwatering can make your yard susceptible to pests and disease. It can also cause shallow root growth and excessive thatch buildup.
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering will cause your lawn to lose its color. If your grass is turning gray and footprints linger because the grass doesn’t bounce back quickly, you should water.
\n\n\n\nCleveland lawns generally require about two inches of water each week. However, the exact amount depends on the type of grass. Don’t forget to consider the rainfall for that week when watering.
\n\n\n\nFor the best efficiency, water your lawn in the morning before 9 a.m. If you water your yard at night, the extra water will remain in the soil, making your grass more susceptible to disease.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend you set up an automated irrigation system to make sure your lawn gets the right amount of water at the correct time.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the season when weeds start growing. It’s essential that you get rid of them to keep your lawn in good shape.
\n\n\n\nRemember the good old days when you have to pull the weeds with your hands? It’s a fun experience, but it can be a pain when there are too many weeds. Now, you don’t have to worry about removing the weeds yourself, thanks to pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nApply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds before they germinate. Early spring (around April) is the best time to apply pre-emergents to your Cleveland lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to overseed your lawn after applying pre-emergents, wait for at least four months, as they prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nIf you have already started to notice weeds on your lawn, it may be too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. In this case, go for post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Pests-in-Lawn-1.jpg\")
Prevention is better than cure. You can keep pests away from your lawn by correctly watering the grass, fertilizing, and dethatching.
\n\n\n\nBut! It’s practically impossible to avoid pests altogether. These pesky pests will somehow make their way into your yard. Spring is usually the time when lawn pests reproduce. Eliminate them before they get time to lay and fertilize their eggs.
\n\n\n\nHere are the pests common to Cleveland lawns.
\n\n\n\nSome of these pests only damage your lawn. But some can attack humans too. So, if you spot these pesky creatures in your yard, take immediate action.
\n\n\n\nUse pesticides that target the specific pest in your yard. Avoid catch-all pesticides as they are less effective and can harm beneficial insects and plants.
\n\n\n\nIt’s usually better to seek the help of a professional to get rid of pests, as some can be very aggressive and harmful to humans.
\n\n\n\nAeration is the process of perforating your soil with holes to allow air, water, and other nutrients to reach the roots easily. Generally, we recommend you aerate your lawn once a year.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to aerate the grass is when it grows. As most homeowners in Cleveland have cool-season grass, early spring can be the best time to aerate your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Aerate your lawn a day after you water your grass. It’s easier to aerate when the soil is moist.
\n\n\n\nA lawn without clean gutters isn’t perfect. So, don’t neglect cleaning your gutters. Here’s why:
\n\n\n\nSpring is the time of the year when your lawn needs your care again. Get your yard back to shape to enjoy the weekends with your family in your home.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re on a busy work schedule and don’t want to spend your weekends doing lawn chores, don’t worry. Wikilawn Cleveland lawn care experts can help you with everything needed to make your lawn lush and beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxfuel
\n","title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5056461731493098,"src":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/107df/Lawn-Care.jpg 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/293e9/Lawn-Care.jpg 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/f2cbb/Lawn-Care.jpg 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/c26c2/Lawn-Care.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/67b76/Lawn-Care.webp 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/8df11/Lawn-Care.webp 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/98a65/Lawn-Care.webp 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/3cc96/Lawn-Care.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When spring starts, your lawn needs your help again. Follow these tips to make your yard the place you desire the most."}}},{"node":{"id":"c00f4ae4-8c13-5db5-ad78-8f4571f36ebf","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-columbus","path":"/lawn-care/oh/columbus/fall-lawn-care-checklist-columbus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Andie Ioó is a writer for LawnStarter. In her free time, she enjoys traveling with her husband, sports, and trying out new healthy recipes. She also loves reading and watching reruns of classic '90s TV shows.","name":"Andie Ioo","id":"00424d9e-71f7-5a65-a764-eb85c6210e90","path":"/author/andie-ioo/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c7090b8e789516e6df2e9bd1a57a1ece?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"April 12th, 2023","excerpt":"Don’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and […]
\n","content":"\nDon’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and more beautiful lawn come spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll go over:
\n\n\n\nThe cool autumn weather is a great opportunity to fertilize your lawn, control weeds, and improve the overall health and appearance of your Columbus yard. With some effort on your part now, you’ll have a green, healthy carpet by the time spring rolls around.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEver notice how getting leaves off your lawn immediately boosts your home’s curb appeal? But there’s more to raking leaves than aesthetics.
\n\n\n\nYou can mulch them in your yard to provide some organic nutrients for your soil, but don’t build a thick layer as it can interfere with lawn care treatments and block sunlight. Alternatively, you can gather them up and add them to your compost.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nColumbus residents generally plant cool-season grasses that grow most vigorously in spring and fall. Careful watering in the fall will lead to healthy growth, strong roots, and a good fighting chance for your grass in winter.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn until the first freeze approaches, around October. Cool-season grass needs around 1 inch of water per week, which includes rainfall. Let your lawn guide you and watch for signs of overwatering, such as:
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering is bad for your lawn as well. A lack of regular watering will result in:
\n\n\n\nAs a rule of thumb, try to follow these watering guidelines:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDethatching is the removal of excess thatch (grass clippings, leaves, dead grass, and other organic matter) from your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDethatching is recommended for lawns that are dry, less dense, and unhealthy. It allows nutrients, air, and water to better reach the soil. Not to mention that it keeps pests at bay, which is always a plus.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to dethatch cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue is late August or early September. With proper lawn maintenance, dethatching only needs to be done once every few years.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you need to dethatch:
\n\n\n\nHow to dethatch your lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you dream of a lush lawn, you can’t overlook aeration. When you aerate, you reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizer, air, and water to penetrate your lawn’s root system. It’s best to aerate your cool-season grasses in fall.
\n\n\n\nOften, dethatching and aeration go hand in hand. When you dethatch, you remove the dead layer of matter preventing your soil from getting the proper nutrients. Then, you come in with aeration to help your lawn breathe.
\n\n\n\nAs a homeowner, there are three different types of aeration you should know about.
\n\n\n\nWhen to aerate: August through November are ideal for fall aeration in Columbus. Also, if possible, try to aerate around the time you fertilize to enhance root growth.
\n\n\n\nHow often to aerate: Most lawns benefit from annual aeration, but heavily used lawns may require aeration twice a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat to expect after aeration: Immediately after aeration, your lawn will be covered with the small plugs pulled from the soil, but worry not, as they’ll disappear into the lawn within a week or two.
\n\n\n\nAbout seven to 10 days after aeration, white active root growth will fill the holes – a sign that the grass is getting the necessary nutrients from the soil. With repeated aeration, your lawn will be able to go longer between waterings without wilting and its drought and heat tolerance will improve significantly.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Alandmanson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil tests are an excellent investment for lawns, gardens, and landscapes. They’re an inexpensive way to maintain soil health and provide an accurate diagnostic. You can get a complete picture of nutrient levels, also known as N-P-K levels (which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Though these nutrients are always present in your soil, their levels may not be optimal for grass growth.
\n\n\n\nBy having a soil sample tested, you’ll find out:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to have your soil tested, we explain the process below.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to give this process a shot, you can take advantage of the services provided by Ohio State University Extension in Licking County. The university will help you fill out the submission form and send the samples to an accredited lab. Depending on the soil test results, you’ll know what your lawn needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you look out into your yard, the last thing you want to see is brown patches, spots, and weeds. Luckily, overseeding can prevent all of that. It involves adding seed to your existing grass without tearing up the lawn or soil. Simply put, it’s an easy way to fill in bare spots, improve the density of turf, introduce new grass varieties to your lawn, and enhance color.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to overseed in Columbus is mid to late September, prior to the first frost. If you’ve aerated (which is strongly recommended), overseeding should be done within 48 hours to avoid issues such as decomposition of the aeration plugs or debris getting into the holes.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding can:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawns do a lot more for us than provide a green carpet for our toes to glide through. They improve air quality, reduce heat, and generate oxygen, so keeping them in top shape is important. One of the best ways to do that is to fertilize them.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer means knowing what your soil’s exact needs are. If you’re unsure, consider taking some soil samples and sending them out to a lab for testing (Ohio State University offers submission support and helpful information). The diagnostic will provide insight into your soil’s current condition and the correct nutrients it needs to flourish.
\n\n\n\nFor maximum winter hardiness, disease resistance, and root growth, select a fertilizer that has high concentrations of the macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (also known as N-P-K ratio).
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is vital for lawn growth and that lovely green grass color. The percentage of nitrogen is always the first number on a fertilizer bag, followed by phosphorus and potassium. It will always be higher than the others because soils generally contain enough phosphorus and potassium.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: When it comes to new lawns, you should pick a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, to get the lawn established. A typical N-P-K ratio in this case is 12-16-8 or 8-18-12.
\n\n\n\nThe second number represents the percentage of phosphorus. This nutrient is critical in developing and strengthening a healthy root system. Strong grass roots will keep your lawn healthy and sturdy even through the changing stresses of the seasons. It’s important to introduce phosphorus when first establishing turfgrass and continue application as the grass grows.
\n\n\n\nThe last macronutrient vitally important to lawn health is potassium. It supports water absorption, respiration, and protein production. In essence, potassium helps lawns withstand drought, stress, and disease.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers can be slow-release or quick-release.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release fertilizers are much better for your lawn, as they promote steady, uniform growth. As an added bonus, you won’t have to fertilize regularly.
\n\n\n\nQuick-release fertilizers are absorbed at a much faster pace, but there’s a high risk of burning your lawn. Plus, they don’t last as long, so you’ll need to re-apply.
\n\n\n\nWhen to fertilize: Plan for two fertilizer applications between late August and November. Summer heat is stressful on our lawns, so fall’s cooler temperatures provide the perfect opportunity for Columbus lawns to regain strength.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize because:
\n\n\n\nThe best time of day to apply fertilizer is in the morning or early evening. You’ll avoid the warm daytime temperatures that work against the process.
\n\n\n\nHow to fertilize:
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in fall, but did you know that weeds do, as well? There are many types of weeds lurking in our yards just waiting for a chance to sow seed. They’re a pain and can cause issues such as allergic reactions.
\n\n\n\nIn Columbus, you’ll likely encounter nuisances such as:
\n\n\n\nThankfully, there are a few good ways to combat these annoying plants. While fertilizer generally keeps weeds at bay, it may not be enough. Applying pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides is a great way to nip the problem in the bud.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicide acts by creating a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil and coating the seeds to prevent them from growing roots. Make sure it becomes incorporated into the soil via rainfall or irrigation, as it must be present whenever weed seeds are germinating.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It inhibits plant root growth, seed cell division, and specific enzymes critical to the growth of certain plants like weeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply pre-emergent herbicide: Timing is everything. Try to stick to an early to mid-September application and select the right herbicide for your yard.
\n\n\n\nSome weeds will slip past pre-emergent herbicides. In that case, post-emergent herbicide becomes your best friend. It controls weeds that have already germinated and are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It targets specific plant parts, such as leaves and stems. The mixture of chemicals kills the weed and prevents it from growing back.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply post-emergent herbicide: For Columbus cool-season grasses, post-emergents are best applied in early fall when temperatures are at or slightly above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nA non-selective herbicide kills pretty much everything it touches. In contrast, selective herbicide targets specific weed types and leaves other plants alone.
\n\n\n\nWeed control products are generally available in both granular and liquid forms and application varies. Granular herbicide is poured into a spreader and distributed evenly across the area of the lawn. Liquid herbicide is poured into a sprayer and sprayed all over the target area.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA good sign that you need to stop mowing is when your grass stops growing. It’s important that your lawn is cut to the right height before winter.
\n\n\n\nMow too high and your grass can develop snow mold during wintertime. Grass that’s cut too short may wither and die in the cold temperatures of Columbus.
\n\n\n\nOnce frost has arrived, stop mowing. Frost freezes the moisture inside the grass blades, so any activity on your turf can break the blade and significantly damage your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe table below highlights the mowing height appropriate for Columbus cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Suggested Fall Mowing Height |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Fine fescue | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Valve.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnless you properly winterize your irrigation system before winter, you’ll likely end up with cracked pipes and broken sprinkler heads come springtime.
\n\n\n\nColumbus homeowners are advised to winterize their sprinklers in October or early November, before the first freeze.
\n\n\n\nThe winterization process involves:
\n\n\n\nIt depends on how loose your soil is. Grass seeds should be placed on loose, prepared soil. If you simply throw it down, there may be some sprouting, but generally speaking the germination rate won’t be very successful. Taking the time to get your soil ready will ensure optimal results.
Good lawn care leads to a lush, great-looking lawn. Avoid making the following mistakes:
• Mowing too short. This causes your lawn to thin out and provides space for weeds to push through.
• Bagging your clippings. Contrary to popular belief, clippings don’t increase thatch. They provide around 25% of the fertilizer your lawn needs, so don’t deprive your grass of readily available free nutrients.
• Cutting your grass with dull mower blades. Don’t use dull mower blades to mow your lawn as the mower tears the grass blades rather than cutting them. The damage can leave your lawn susceptible to lawn disease.
Chemical fertilizers are generally a ‘quick fix’ solution. They provide the nutrients grass needs, but pollute our water, soil, and the environment within the soil itself. In contrast, organic fertilizers are made from natural ingredients that produce long-lasting feeding for your lawn, making them a much better alternative.
Fall in Columbus is a beautiful sight – the leaves are bright and colorful, the weather is perfect for your favorite sweater, and there are tons of activities to enjoy all week long.
\n\n\n\nBut before you go apple picking and pumpkin patch visiting, get your lawn ready for the long winter ahead. Start planning early to avoid being caught unprepared.
\n\n\n\nStill, if you’d rather go bike riding in one of the city’s metro parks or explore the Columbus zoo and aquarium, a Columbus lawn care pro can get your lawn ready for the cold season so you can continue doing all the things you love.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Ohio State University / Dan Keck / Flickr / CC0 1.0
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\n","content":"\nYour beautiful Central Ohio home is a source of pride and joy. Part of that joy is the sometimes-overwhelming task of yard care. Lawn mowing and maintenance in Columbus is, at the very least, a weekly chore — whether you do it yourself or hire a lawn service. Mowing, weeding, fertilizing, aerating … it’s all a piece of the puzzle that comes with owning a house or rental property.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are suitable for Columbus lawns because they can handle our cold winters. Chances are your turf consists of Kentucky bluegrass (KBG) – or a blend of KBG and perennial ryegrass, tall fescue or Buffalograss.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/c0m7Y3fthxqXa0hb0CNGUJ-8_L06QP5VtKXDihlDKJMOmUc1oUfXH1vsXQKpDem0MPLK4ellVHBlq9zF9EYxtGuJwE-uP8zpQytxx2jElgaFVzZhf3u8NS_suukto6XEpOG2utNq\")
If you’re reseeding or replacing a lawn in Franklin County, The Ohio State University Extension recommends having the soil tested to determine the best cool-season grass for your lawn. Geographical location, soil alkalinity, and temperature are important considerations.
\n\n\n\nSharpen the cutting blades on your gasoline or electric mower every season, and set the height relative to the lawn’s condition. Columbus tends to get an ample amount of rainfall in the spring and autumn, so you can lower the blades for a shorter cut. Kentucky bluegrass can be cut to about 2-1/2 inches if you’re only mowing once a week. In late July and into August’s extreme summer heat and dry weather, cool-season grass root systems tend to become shallow. Raise the blades to about 3-1/2 inches high. Cutting the grass too short in the hot summer months will stress it and keep it from staying green. You can mow KBG, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescues twice a week, if a lot of rain is prompting growth spurts.
\n\n\n\nMowing in straight lines, back and forth every time compacts the soil and pushes the grass blades into one direction, which leads to an irregular cut. Changing directions each mow allows individual blades to spring back. Lawnmowers work better on dry grass, but do not wait too long. The amount of Columbus rainfall is always hit or miss. Leave the grass clippings on the lawn. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and serves as excellent mulch.
\n\n\n\nFertilizing your Columbus lawn depends on its pH level, and that’s where having the soil tested comes in handy. Ohio soils vary, but the best range for grass is slightly acidic, in the pH range between 6.0 and 7.0. Commercial fertilizer contains measured portions of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Feed the lawn in early spring and summer or use slow-release chemicals over dry grass in August to December. Fertilize and follow with a deep watering every eight to 10 weeks.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/oV_ZyfWGU1MESsCrbWe92b6Nw4GUBCsdOBvA062DRf02pvWMctUOgh6Z8MTT20Hjhn44SVncioA9DUzhpxJqZnN6YyBbuP8umfyRvv2RwaaEiuenM3ip4C2aiyM8_r7YFma9B3wQ\")
Post-emergent herbicides will not keep new weeds from sprouting up, but they will kill existing ones. Weed-killing chemicals include dicamba, 4-DP and MCPP (in liquid and granular form). Apply them in early spring, the first couple of weeks in June, and then again in September. See “Controlling the Worst Weeds in Columbus” for more details.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a rotting tangled-up mass of fallen grass blades, rhizomes, and various organic material that spread into a type of vegetative rug. A little is good because it provides a moisture-holding zone where these materials can decompose into nutrients. But when it gets too thick, this woven carpet keeps new grass blades from growing. Bluegrass and some fescue blends may develop thatch that’s more than a half-inch thick. This prevents grass from absorbing enough nutrients and water. Raking, mowing, and fertilizing lawns regularly will help to control thatch.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e_Bh0WbjZQCcpLGIeyTjhzcQz93xfFJx06dDiLwjmjUroaKz5SoLr5JwuLm3Qkqg6A25NRx4Ke7xkD1g9H7LZ8FhvoeOv3He3dBuH5K-HHKwW-NHSwHlsc9EgDKDuzXy3TfyX361\")
Aeration is the process of pulling soil plugs from a thickening lawn so that water and nutrients can reach the roots. Core aerators are recommended for large properties, but if you have a smaller yard, a spading fork will work for a DIY job.
\n\n\n\nNo matter how you look at it, lawn mowing and maintenance in Columbus is a chore and will take a good chunk of the weekend’s leisure time. But the look and smell of a beautiful, well-kept expanse green grass make it all worth it. Any more questions about your lawn? Visit our Columbus lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nJill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.
The last thing you want to see is damage caused by annoying backyard pests. Here are a few of the worst in Cincinnati, along with tips on how to control them.
\n","content":"\nYou’ve worked hard and invested time and money to have a beautiful lawn and garden. The last thing you want to see is damage caused by annoying backyard pests. Here are a few of the worst in Cincinnati, along with some tips on how to control them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sTj6Eg1yn9nHAv_-kMu4YQ67rmYRw1XWpjuGvJEYDrnpJ9mjRdiA1cb1Wf4mvLbYQSr0aXEOcTx4GD2o1ijal2B3Vu5Y_vVYV27bO_d0nYPXTCpRgoqzbuvUxGMo8-2C2fAXZJJZ\")
Billbugs are grayish-black and have a snout or “bill” on their forehead. Adults live in the thatch layer of your lawn and can do some damage, but the larvae are far worse. Adult females lay their eggs in lawns in June. Within a few weeks, the eggs hatch and the larvae begin feasting on the grass as they move to the soil. You’ll start to see the damage in July or August, with discolored grass and brown patches. You also can easily pull up the grass in infested areas.
\n\n\n\nPrevention can start with varieties of billbug-resistant turf. You can use insecticides to kill the adults in May before they lay their eggs. Billbugs are harder to control when they reach the larval stage, but some newer insecticides have proven effective.
\n\n\n\nNot only do chinch bugs eat your grass; they inject it with their toxic saliva which kills it. The damage shows up as yellow patches in your lawn that eventually turn brown. Chinch bugs love dry grass, so watering your lawn properly can help keep them away. Keeping your grass longer can also help, as can aerating in the spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/vNM5UWNMh4tyNPVmLbp7UhdQjA5cNEumKHPpyGyYnRG4y6aB0XIytq_Sdjmg-lrIOxail0QOrri1CQMu1UrOa2urZtAOfE9U_aX4AN1PkgVluduPqPG3tfpMtJuKeYrtrxszDSqM\")
These pests annoy you, your pets, and even the squirrels in your yard. Fleas are most active in the summer and can inflict painful bites. Mowing the lawn and getting rid of tall overgrown weeds where fleas like to live can help. You can spray pesticide, but for a nontoxic alternative try nematodes. These small wormlike critters eat fleas in their pupae, larvae and pre-adult forms.
\n\n\n\nMosquitoes can make a backyard barbecue truly miserable. They’re annoying and often deadly since they can also spread disease. Females need water sources to lay their eggs, so one way to control them is to remove standing water from your property. Citronella candles, yellow light bulbs and insect repellent can also help. You can also try mosquito repelling plants such as chrysanthemums, basil, lavender, and marigolds.
\n\n\n\nThis pest does its damage in its larval or caterpillar stage. You’ll first notice lawn damage in the spring when larvae start eating the grass. As the larvae get larger you’ll start noticing larger brown spots in your lawn, often near driveways and curbs. Check for sod webworms by digging in the thatch layer, looking for their silk-lined tunnels. To get rid of them, you need to get rid of the larvae, not the adult moths. If you’re using a pesticide, choose one labeled for effectiveness against them. The larvae feed at night so it’s best to spray in the late afternoon.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs are the larval stage of several types of beetles, including Japanese and chafer beetles. They attack the roots of your grass, which causes yellow then brown patches. The turf becomes spongy and rolls back like carpet because the roots are gone. Adult females lay their eggs in mid-July, and the larvae can start feeding in August. They move deeper into the soil to survive the winter, move back to the surface in spring to pupate into adults. Then the cycle begins again. Pesticides can help get rid of them from July to mid-September, but you should only treat the affected area and not your entire lawn. Natural alternatives include nematodes (see above) or milky spore.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining a healthy lawn is one of the best ways to prevent insect infestation. If you’re replacing or planting new grass, consider perennial ryegrass. This variety stands up well to kids and pets and contains endophytes, a fungus that repels ground-feeding insects. It won’t get rid of all the bugs but will help control the worst backyard pests in Cincinnati.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Cincinnati? Visit our Cincinnati Lawn Care page.
\n","title":"Worst Backyard Pests in Cincinnati and How to Control Them","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3136288998357963,"src":"/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/f2cbb/mosquito.jpg","srcSet":"/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/107df/mosquito.jpg 320w,\n/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/293e9/mosquito.jpg 500w,\n/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/f2cbb/mosquito.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/98a65/mosquito.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/67b76/mosquito.webp 320w,\n/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/8df11/mosquito.webp 500w,\n/static/26d787bc3e5f1858ebe8a3d6c96d9589/98a65/mosquito.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Worst Backyard Pests in Cincinnati and How to Control Them | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"ef21a10f-8aef-5c89-be52-99e4dfd2bfa1","slug":"columbus-ohio-lawn-care-lawn-mowing-guide","path":"/lawn-care/oh/columbus/columbus-ohio-lawn-care-lawn-mowing-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"August 8th, 2022","excerpt":"We take pride in our lawns in Columbus. The grass that covers your landscape is like a cover to a book. People will assume the inside of your home is just as pristine as your yard. That’s why this quickstart guide to lawn care in Columbus is crucial. Contents: The 4 Most Popular Grass Types […]
\n","content":"\nWe take pride in our lawns in Columbus. The grass that covers your landscape is like a cover to a book. People will assume the inside of your home is just as pristine as your yard. That’s why this quickstart guide to lawn care in Columbus is crucial.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nSince we get more than the average amount of precipitation (more than 56 inches a year), lawn care in Columbus is relatively easy. We still need to water occasionally and mow often. How often you should mow, and water depends on the type of grass covering your landscape.
\n\n\n\n![\"tall](\"http://lawnstarter.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/tall-fescue.jpg\")
Tall fescue grass is perfect if you don’t want to spend a lot of time watering and maintaining your lawn. This variety is drought-resistant and will survive a hot, dry summer. It also holds up well during our cold winters.
\n\n\n\nIt does grow quickly and will need mowing at least once a week. It looks best when mowed between 3 and 3½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZJelm3O3DzG-doQdR0rekiXL7qGVKJkSrPMH5HtEnRlFQG1syvtDf97LmhStDSawKjpyNspADimLJDukiJt27dgNso9M6DtmZ149IM6dducfpnoF_YFeAlbSUpRE0mOR-BKOpiaO\")
This is the most common grass you’ll see on Columbus lawns. Kentucky bluegrass is an eye-catching shade of deep green, but in the spring, the bluish-purple buds tint the landscape blue.
\n\n\n\nAs a cold-season grass, Kentucky bluegrass holds up well to winters here. It’s long-lasting and resilient to heavy foot traffic, It’s also more resistant than other grasses to disease. If you’re planting a new lawn, keep in mind bluegrass takes one to three months to establish itself, so it’s best to plant it in the spring or fall. We recommend mowing this grass to a height of 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vzmTOQphoueWk2oivJZRNZ0nObnaicYDQED1O7Pkx_t6faunOvLpkDV07otpxZ4I801ugNHs1nBw_yCFJeamA6ZerGu-TMWtXd8WxmfCCxEd-Q5jq8q-VQSXgoyhNnuMpHH2mtUy\")
Got kids and pets? Perennial ryegrass is perfect for your yard. As one of the toughest sods, it can stand up to heavy foot traffic and hot and cold weather. Like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues, it continues to grow in poorly drained soil. It’s best to keep this grass shorter, 1½ to 2½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_pixnio-4149-2560x1920-1.jpg\")
Buffalo grass is a North American native turf you can plant and almost forget about. It’s extremely versatile and doesn’t require a lot of attention. It’s also durable and can bounce back after a heavy snowfall and a lot of foot traffic. You should mow Buffalo grass at a height of 2½ to 3½ inches.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third of the height of your grass. If you cut too much off at once, your grass becomes vulnerable to pests and diseases. Got an overgrown lawn? Sorry: Do multiple mows, taking off one-third each time. Most turfs need a weekly mow until late fall when the growth slows down or stops. Vary the pattern and direction each time you mow. It reduces compaction of the soil and stops your grass blades from leaning in one direction, making the cut uneven. Leave the clippings in the yard as you mow. They will decompose and fertilize your lawn. If you hire a lawn service professional, make sure to remind this person.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining your lawn mower is an essential part of lawn care in Columbus. A poorly maintained mower can damage your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_11pixnio-46676-6144x4096-1.jpg\")
Dull mower blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it. Shredded grass blades are ugly — and less disease-resistant. With sharp mower blades, you cut efficiently and put less strain on your mower’s engine. Many hardware stores can sharpen them for you, or you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Just make sure you disconnect the spark plug or cord first.
\n\n\n\nYou can adjust the cutting height by raising or lowering the mower’s wheel. Look on the side of your lawnmower and find a knob or lever that adjusts the height for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nClean the blades often, so you don’t spread fungus and other lawn diseases throughout your yard. The same goes for pruning shears and other gardening tools.
\n\n\n\nOnce you put the mower away, you’ll need to make sure your lawn stays thick and green once it comes out of dormancy in the spring. You can do this by preparing it in the fall.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will start to look tired and worn out after a summer of use. By raking up all debris and thatch and spreading fresh seed, you can replenish some of those bare patches over the fall and winter. A thinning lawn is an invitation for weeds and pests. You can spread seed over the smaller areas by hand, or rent a seed spreader for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nYour soil can become compacted after a summer full of heavy traffic. Poking tiny holes in the lawn, or aerating, gives the grass a chance to take in more moisture and nutrients. It also raises the lawn’s resistance to diseases and pests. Do this in the fall, just before you add fertilizer. Fertilizing the lawn at the end of September will help it make it through the cold winter. Before deciding which fertilizer to use, find out what your lawn needs. You can get a home soil test kit at your local home improvement store. The extension office at The Ohio State University can recommend labs in your area to test the soil for you.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn may need a little more moisture before it goes dormant over the winter. Keep your sprinkler ready until the first frost. A few good soakings will give the roots of the grass the strength it needs to make it through the winter. You also want to make sure the new seeds and fertilizer work their way into the soil. Check with the city or Wikilawn’s post for lawn watering restrictions in your area.
\n\n\n\nWhile you won’t be mowing in the winter, you can’t completely forget about your lawn after it goes dormant in fall. It’s crucial that you rake up the leaves, or mulch them finely with your mower. Wet leaves that pile up will suffocate your lawn and invite disease. Be sure to remove any lawn furniture from the grass and avoid walking on the lawn when it’s covered with snow or frost. This could damage the lawn when it’s dormant.
\n\n\n\n1. How do I clean my lawn mower blades?
\n\n\n\nLay the lawn mower on its side and spray down the mower casing and blade with a high-pressure hose to remove all the grass and debris. It’s crucial that you empty the gas tank and disconnect the spark plugs first.
\n\n\n\n2. Will lawn decorations harm my grass?
\n\n\n\nYes, especially if those ornamental decorations are heavy. Avoid heavy holiday decorations to save your grass from mold and tearing. As far as those garden gnomes? Look for smaller ones and place them at the edge of your yard. You may also want to move them around every so often to allow the sun and water to reach those covered spots.
\n\n\n\n3. Will long periods of snow in the winter damage my lawn?
\n\n\n\nIt can. When the snow and ice melt, your lawn becomes vulnerable to snow mold, a fungus that can affect cool-season grass types. You can prevent snow mold by avoiding walking on your snow-covered lawn and by fertilizing in the fall, before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or energy to keep your lawn looking pristine? We’ll help you find a lawn care and landscaping professional who can handle the work for you while you sit back and enjoy your yard.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Rawpixel
\n","title":"Your QuickStart Guide to Lawn Care in Columbus, Ohio","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5247776365946633,"src":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1789c/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/107df/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/293e9/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/f2cbb/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1789c/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/c26c2/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1dd6e/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/67b76/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/8df11/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/98a65/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1dd6e/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/3cc96/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Your QuickStart Guide to Lawn Care in Columbus, Ohio | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a lawn that will turn your neighbors green with envy? Our Columbus, Ohio lawn care & mowing guide will help you keep your lawn green and lush."}}},{"node":{"id":"77439955-8c92-58fd-ad71-ddecdf5222fd","slug":"best-grass-types-cincinnati","path":"/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/best-grass-types-cincinnati/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Michelle Selzer is a web developer, technical writer, and Linux enthusiast from the hills of Tennessee. Her hobbies include collecting toys, hiking to waterfalls, and writing short fan-fiction stories.","name":"Michelle Selzer","id":"ce795c2b-f287-56e6-a311-f91628ed456a","path":"/author/michelle-selzer/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/f05a59712d75dec705cc9870b2f909e7?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"cd94a504-1dfc-52f0-ae16-ea162e4c1f6a","name":"Cincinnati","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"May 4th, 2021","excerpt":"Cincinnati is known for its hilly terrain, abundant breweries, and world-class chili. However, when not at Skyline Chilli or Rhinegeist Brewery, many locals enjoy spending time outdoors. Picking the perfect grass for your Cincy home will beautify your yard and improve your outdoor living experience. For example, if you enjoy playing soccer, you should choose […]
\n","content":"\nCincinnati is known for its hilly terrain, abundant breweries, and world-class chili. However, when not at Skyline Chilli or Rhinegeist Brewery, many locals enjoy spending time outdoors. Picking the perfect grass for your Cincy home will beautify your yard and improve your outdoor living experience. For example, if you enjoy playing soccer, you should choose a grass variety that tolerates heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nWe researched and compiled a list of the best Cincinnati grass types. We break down each variety and explain its strengths and weaknesses. As a result, this guide empowers you to choose the best grass for your Cincinnati home.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost Cincinnati locals prefer cool-season grass because it can survive and flourish through long winters. Cool-season grasses grow best in the fall and spring and may go dormant in July and August, especially during dry spells. In addition, they usually go dormant in the winter once the soil is colder than 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Kentucky Bluegrass
Photo Credit: Ethan2039 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
The majority of lawns throughout Cincinnati have Kentucky bluegrass. It’s the most popular lawn grass in the United States and boasts the highest cold tolerance of all cool-season grasses. Homeowners love its lush appearance and appreciate how quickly it recovers after distress. In fact, the Great American Ballpark even uses a Kentucky bluegrass blend.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, Kentucky bluegrass is also high maintenance. It prefers well-drained soil, but Cincinnati’s soil contains a lot of clay, so it doesn’t always drain well. However, aerating your lawn will improve drainage and help you maintain healthy turf. Additionally, Kentucky bluegrass requires lots of water, sunshine, dethatching, and fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: During the summer it needs about 2 to 3 inches of water per week. Be sure to fertilize in the fall and as needed throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Perennial Ryegrass
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
Another popular turfgrass is perennial ryegrass. Its color and texture resemble Kentucky bluegrass, but it takes less time to establish and can handle heavier foot traffic. So, it is often used to overseed recreational turf.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass loves sunshine but many cultivars can tolerate partial shade. It prefers loamy soils that are well-drained and fertile, so be sure to aerate and fertilize. However, you probably won’t have to worry about dethatching because perennial ryegrass doesn’t develop significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Although it goes dormant in the summer, you should still water the lawn.
\n\n\n\nCincinnati homeowners who want a low-maintenance lawn with fine blades choose fine fescues, such as creeping red and chewing fescue. Fine fescue doesn’t require a lot of fertilizer, water, or mowing and thrives in cool and humid climates. However, it prefers well-drained soil so be sure to aerate. Although some residents have a pure fescue lawn, many homeowners prefer fine fescue blends.
\n\n\n\nIf you have a lot of trees in your yard, consider fine fescue, because it is the most shade tolerant cool-season grass. However, it isn’t suitable for sports or keg parties because fine fescue doesn’t like heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: You may need to dethatch the lawn every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nAnother low-maintenance turfgrass is tall fescue. Its coarse deep green blades don’t require a lot of fertilizer or water but require more mowing than fine fescue. And although tall fescue prefers cool temperatures, it is the most heat-tolerant cool-season grass, so it will survive a summer heat wave.
\n\n\n\nHowever, tall fescue is intolerant to foot traffic and slowly recovers when damaged. Although it isn’t recommended for outdoor sports or doggy playgrounds, some modern cultivars are better suited to handle foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Tall fescue is susceptible to a fungus called Acremonium coenophialum, which harms horses.
\n\n\n\nYes, although it is easier for cool-season grass to thrive in Cincinnati. Some Cincinnatians prefer cold-tolerant warm-season grasses, such as:
● Zoysia japonica
● Pensacola bahiagrass
● Yukon Bermudagrass
Aeration is part of Cincinnati’s fall lawn care checklist and the best months to aerate are September and October. Because the local soil contains a lot of clay, you must aerate to ensure proper soil drainage and prevent the soil from becoming compacted.
The best time to overseed your Cincy lawn is early Fall, within 48 hours of aerating. This is also a good time to apply fertilizer.
Spring lawn care in Cincinnati includes the following:
● Raking and removing debris: When the snow melts, wet yard waste traps moisture in your lawn, making it susceptible to snow mold.
● Resume mowing: Once the grass is about 2 inches tall, it is time to resume regular mowing. Never mow more than one-third of the grass’s height, and follow cutting guidelines for your turf species.
● Pre-emergent herbicides: Weeds tend to sprout in the spring.
● Pest control: Many of Cincinnati’s yard pests surface in the spring.
When selecting vegetation for your Cincinnati home, consider the following:
\n\n\n\nThe best way to maintain a lush lawn free of weeds, pests, and diseases is to hire a lawn care pro in Cincinnati. In addition to maintaining your property, landscaping professionals can help you maintain an alluring landscape that thrives in Cincy’s soil.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: David Ohmer / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Cincinnati, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5584415584415585,"src":"/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/1789c/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg","srcSet":"/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/107df/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg 320w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/293e9/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg 500w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/f2cbb/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg 800w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/1789c/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg 960w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/c26c2/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/1dd6e/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/67b76/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp 320w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/8df11/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp 500w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/98a65/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp 800w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/1dd6e/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp 960w,\n/static/30301a5f4502e639147f197d0e7a3a28/3cc96/Red-Fall-Trees-in-Cincinnati.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Cincinnati, OH | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"We made a list of the best turfgrasses for Cincinnati, including Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. Cool-season grasses grow best in Ohio's climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"f3aaf17d-f9ca-5766-b16c-d930f6163e26","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-cincinnati","path":"/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/watering-restrictions-in-cincinnati/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.","name":"Tina Hill","id":"05b33636-8a93-5cbe-a32e-4d72278ff06f","path":"/author/tina-hill/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f78fd5fd50db11dcceecbeb20de206e?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"cd94a504-1dfc-52f0-ae16-ea162e4c1f6a","name":"Cincinnati","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"August 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Watering restrictions are not a concern for Cincinnati, but it’s still a good idea to conserve.
\n","content":"\nDrought and local lawn watering restrictions are plaguing people across the country. Not so in Cincinnati. Cincy is fortunate: It draws 88 percent of its water from the large Ohio River. The other 12 percent comes from an underground aquifer. Watering restrictions in Cincinnati are rare since the river isn’t likely to run dry any time soon. In fact, in 2019 may be the third wettest year on record for the Queen City.
\n\n\n\nCincinnati is also humid, which helps keep things green. That said, some years our lawns and gardens often need more water than Mother Nature provides during the summer.
\n\n\n\nWatering smart involves knowing when and how much to water your lawn. The best time to give the grass a drink is in the morning, before 10 a.m. This allows the soil to absorb the water before it evaporates during the heat of the day and help your lawn thrive in hotter weather. It also gives the grass enough time to dry by nightfall. Too much water on your lawn overnight can lead to disease that can kill the grass.
\n\n\n\nEstablished lawns in Cincinnati need at least an inch of water weekly (the amount varies depending on your soil type). Instead of watering daily for shorter stretches of time, lawn experts recommend watering every few days for longer periods. This way, water soaks deeply into the soil, giving roots the moisture they need to survive. If Mother Nature is giving you a hand with rainfall, cut back on running those sprinklers.
\n\n\n\nProper mowing will help save water and keep your grass thick and healthy. Set your mower blade height to three inches or higher, and don’t mow too often. Taller grass will develop deeper roots which will hold up better during the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nWhile there aren’t any watering restrictions in Cincinnati right now, it’s still a good idea to keep water conservation in mind. The Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical garden gets kudos for installing underground tanks that reuse rainwater and save millions of gallons of water a year. Likewise, the University of Cincinnati received national recognition for its efforts to conserve water and to lessen the flow of stormwater into the city’s sewer system.
\n\n\n\nSo even though there’s an abundance of water right now, go with the flow and limit your watering. Our neighbors in the drought-stricken states will thank you.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Cincinnati? Visit our Cincinnati Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\nTina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.
Homowners can’t be blamed for getting frustrated if, after putting many hours of hard work into a creating a beautiful lawn, they find weeds cropping up. The weather in Columbus, Ohio, contributes to the weed population with hot and humid summers and periods of heavy rainfall. Being proactive and controlling the worst weeds in Columbus […]
\n","content":"\nHomowners can’t be blamed for getting frustrated if, after putting many hours of hard work into a creating a beautiful lawn, they find weeds cropping up. The weather in Columbus, Ohio, contributes to the weed population with hot and humid summers and periods of heavy rainfall. Being proactive and controlling the worst weeds in Columbus is possible.
\n\n\n\n![\"Poison](\"https://cdn.pixabay.com/photo/2016/08/31/20/20/poison-ivy-1634562_960_720.jpg\")
The State of Ohio has defined 31 weeds as noxious and deserving eradication anywhere they’re found on public right-of-ways. They’re a good starting point for homeowners looking to create their own “most unwanted” list, too. The weeds may be grassy or broadleaf. Some even have striking blooms and florets. Of about 700 nonnative plants found in Columbus and the rest of the Buckeye State, fewer than 100 of them are problems in natural areas. But all Ohio weeds can damage grass and gardens.
\n\n\n\nThe City of Columbus Code Enforcement division considers grass to be too high when it exceeds 12 inches. Noxious weeds that can cause unhealthy or unsafe conditions, such as poison ivy, oak or sumac, must be removed promptly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/AMvCybT5Ft9BTQK9NW6ebzgJySy7nhjSjE-DUTGtS-tnZNtfGtnBERndagGOhIwsO1Y3cTb57Z7vwMKXkr11OxHs59KAboIv8JoMsPFvkBNygbDW8jrXt0gavU9doL73dJrRMdXT\")
Bittercress is that winter weed with long stems and tiny white blooms that crops up every year. Pulling it up by hand with a weeding tool is recommended, but not always practical. Treating bittercress with chemical herbicide poses a risk to people, pets, and the environment. A pre-emergent herbicide product applied in late summer or early fall will prevent the seeds from germinating. The problem? Pre-emergents also stop grass seed from growing. Products containing MCPP or dicamba may be effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/3IunA4uMZLgePLApFvlo3DFe2aWhKaMl18-wWGVsHhpZLRaW00zoe1iJEUqtPlTVlzWFh8X2L2TKXUSHPPjlCY6G7KkaccrZpGPSEDpm1i4n18n1bFg7cwoQX3ofk99lH72dnX2Y\")
This invasive plant is rather attractive for a weed, with tiny white florets on a pinecone-like spike. Post-emergent weed killers are helpful but may need several applications.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chickweed,](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/VbcGgnm2p0lsuJZ_Cj4JUwOyzkVgU_GIrypVa4VDrqcsfWkLxthEm6JJ5TaOqzbkRvvUddoDodrYL6ggppV7oh2jEK8H0zauvCnE2wYKSs9c9KT88oWP-pqfDQBrAQpS6FgfVUDg\")
One of the most common grassy flower weeds, chickweed is a favorite of honeybees and other pollinating insects. The thin green stems with white flower buds are difficult to control without killing off the surrounding vegetation. The best way to remove shallow chickweed roots is to pull them out by hand and then aerate the soil. Watch out for bees!
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P0lWBEYObh6ResFkaZLQkJJE26ZbyKodgHSdw7SKSBCiVVp8Kkcbl-K89OTvgjBVf77n_UqcK4MDjxVqxdDXwt6-oCFDhG8tg1uQOJJaY91vrBXHgW9lL1YRyOSTp3o_vvVy82iY\")
Springtime is the beginning of this season-long weed, as it thrives in full sunlight. Leggy stems grow and spread out over the lawn. It can be hard to spot, but crabgrass color is a lighter shade of green. Pre-emergent herbicide is effective on young crabgrass plants – where only two or three leaves are present. Post-emergent weed killers work if there aren’t many weeds embedded in the lawn. But large areas of aged crabgrass that have swallowed up the turf will leave dead, brown stems if you treat it. Crabgrass dies with the first hard frost; in Columbus, that is usually in late October. Reseed in early autumn and apply a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring.
\n\n\n\nOne of the most persistent weeds, with their yellow petals that turn into white puffy seed balls. Broadleaf post-emergent weed killers are effective. But keep in mind the seeds are windborne, and it’s quite a chore to kill them before they germinate.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/VyYog62CrJoqXeotey7m0uKd4tlYKhGpAxWmPLHLVZzbmTv7ssF1GVnOq5ad3RVKv5Tf8LMXrkSkHOslZwaoC9U2z8rKClAUhih0P13j2-lTUvVyokAhQjlEcE2NjN3PFtS8wNAw\")
If left untreated, nutsedge can choke out healthy plants in its path. This weed starts out looking like grass blades — only taller and with an invasive root system. The perennial weed is resilient and comes back year after year. Post-emergent herbicides are your best bet, but their effectiveness is hit or miss.
\n\n\n\nThistle seed is a draw for songbirds in Columbus, but the spiky, prickly plants can be rough on bare feet! Weedkiller helps, but it’s better to don a pair of heavy gardening gloves and remove them by hand at the base of the plant.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/wZmdBQ6xEUuiV_ov-CP381Icoco1bEfVlgs2bDSaBCPBWDRYcHBcJ2wNhJu-ZZJSfjKkoBGLcWmx0K-R7ieJi9xBsI2QItT_TQ6GnSt_WxrfXMw43KSoZOAAXKCdaW16xJkDgPCl\")
Yes, those bright purple blooms are pretty, but wild violets are perennial weeds with heart-shaped foliage. Autumn is the best time to treat wild violets since the post-emergent chemical absorbs into the root system before winter’s freeze.
\n\n\n\nWhether you fight the weeds yourself or hire a lawn service, establishing a diligent plan will help you keep one step, and one weed ahead of the game.
\n\n\n\nNeed more information about lawn care in Columbus and Central Ohio? Check out our Columbus, OH Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\nJill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.
\n","title":"Controlling the Worst Weeds in Columbus","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.501466275659824,"src":"/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/1789c/spraying.-dandilions.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/107df/spraying.-dandilions.jpg 320w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/293e9/spraying.-dandilions.jpg 500w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/f2cbb/spraying.-dandilions.jpg 800w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/1789c/spraying.-dandilions.jpg 960w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/a2a79/spraying.-dandilions.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/1dd6e/spraying.-dandilions.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/67b76/spraying.-dandilions.webp 320w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/8df11/spraying.-dandilions.webp 500w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/98a65/spraying.-dandilions.webp 800w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/1dd6e/spraying.-dandilions.webp 960w,\n/static/0e0cb31d0e9b54f6446a8dca18e7553e/7aa54/spraying.-dandilions.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Controlling the Worst Weeds in Columbus | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Nothing can ruin a lush, green lawn faster than invasive weeds. Identifying them makes controlling the worst weeds in Columbus a breeze."}}},{"node":{"id":"3ebd0074-0403-5c7a-b6e2-447d002198f4","slug":"best-native-plants-cleveland","path":"/lawn-care/oh/cleveland/best-native-plants-cleveland/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7ba0d0fa-46fc-5a18-a83f-513673ed896c","name":"Cleveland","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/cleveland/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"April 5th, 2023","excerpt":"Cleveland is called the Forest City for a reason. It’s home to many gardens, including the world-famous Cleveland Cultural Gardens. You can have a fantastic garden, too, especially if you choose easy-to-maintain native plants that thrive in Ohio’s diverse climate. Here is a look at 10 of the best native plants for Cleveland. In this […]
\n","content":"\nCleveland is called the Forest City for a reason. It’s home to many gardens, including the world-famous Cleveland Cultural Gardens. You can have a fantastic garden, too, especially if you choose easy-to-maintain native plants that thrive in Ohio’s diverse climate.
\n\n\n\nHere is a look at 10 of the best native plants for Cleveland.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nNative plants, as the name suggests, belong to a local region. They are well-adapted to a region’s climate and soil conditions as they have been growing there for several years.
\n\n\n\nHere’s why native plants are better than non-natives.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/image-263.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBee balm looks beautiful with its bright scarlet flowers. The foliage has a minty fragrance as they are part of the mint family. Bee balm performs best in full sun and moist soil.
\n\n\n\nBee balm blooms throughout the summer, and the flowers attract bees and butterflies. Songbirds like to snack on their seed heads during fall and winter.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Rich, moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Wild-Geranium-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWild geranium features palmate-shaped leaves with five petals. The flowers come in pink or lavender colors. Wild geraniums are beautiful and attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nWild geraniums bloom for a lengthy period, from late spring to early summer. They prefer moist soil and grow well in full or partial sun.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Rich, moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Needs high watering during the growth period. Once matured, it requires watering only in drought conditions.
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic to children. Toxic to pets.
\n\n\n\n![\"Field](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/black-eyed-susan-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan blooms throughout the summer, adorning your lawn with bright-yellow flowers with dark brown beads in the center. They are fast-growing climbers that attract birds, butterflies, and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan requires low maintenance and grows best in full sun and well-drained soil. You can remove the dead heads of the faded flowers to keep black-eyed Susan in bloom for much longer.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 5 feet tall and 3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deep green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low, high drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/image-76.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: rockerBOO / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nCardinal flowers look attractive with their two-lipped bright red tubular flowers. They bloom during hot summers when most plants are done blooming. Cardinal flowers require low maintenance and can tolerate partial shade but not drought.
\n\n\n\nCardinal flowers depend on hummingbirds for fertilization as other insects can’t make their way in to reach the nectar because of the flower’s shape.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist,well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to humans and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Butterfly-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nButterfly weed features clusters of bright orange flowers that attract bees, hummingbirds, and especially monarch butterflies. They require little maintenance and can tolerate drought conditions.
\n\n\n\nButterfly weed blooms from late spring and stays the same throughout the summer. During fall, the leaves of butterfly weed turns dull yellow, and the flowers burst open to reveal their fluffy white seeds.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low, high drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to humans and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/White-Wood-Aster.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mets501 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWhite wood aster looks beautiful and blends well with other plants on your lawn. They bloom in late summer, producing small white flowers with yellow centers that gradually turn red. Butterflies love white wood asters.
\n\n\n\nWhite wood aster tolerates drought and can grow in rocky soil. These plants only require three hours of partial sunlight a day.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 3 feet tall and 4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial sun. Can tolerate full shade.
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil. Can survive in rocky soil.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low, high drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Coneflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nPerennial coneflower looks distinctive with reddish-purple petals. It blooms from early summer through early fall. Perennial coneflower attracts birds and butterflies when in full bloom.
\n\n\n\nThis plant grows in rocky soils, making it a great option for low-maintenance lawns. It tolerates drought but doesn’t tolerate shade very well.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 4 feet tall and about 1.5 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil. Can survive in rocky soil.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"picture](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Obedient-Plant.jpg\")
Photo Credit: F. D. Richards / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe obedient plant, also known as false dragonhead, blooms from late summer to fall. The flowers appear in light shades of pink and white. They attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators when in full bloom.
\n\n\n\nObedient plant is easy to grow and requires little maintenance. Wondering how obedient plant got its name? These plants hold their position when bent.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"picture](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Wood-Poppy.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nWood poppies look attractive with their bright yellow flowers. They can grow under full shade, making them a great option for shady lawns. They can resist diseases and perform best in well-drained soil.
\n\n\n\nWood poppies bloom from spring to early summer. Remove the dead heads of the old flowers to make the plant bloom much longer.
\n\n\n\nIf you like chipmunks, wood poppies are a must-have on your lawn. These cute creatures love the seeds produced by this plant.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to a foot tall and a foot wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Bluish green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial to full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to humans and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Savanna-Blazing-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rawpixel
\n\n\n\nSavanna blazing star is rare to spot in Cleveland, but it’s native to Ohio and can adapt to the climate of the Forest City. It looks appealing with its bright pink shaggy flower heads. Savanna blazing star grows best in full sun and can tolerate drought and rocky soil.
\n\n\n\nSavanna blazing star blooms from late summer to mid-fall and lasts about 1.5 months. They attract butterflies and hummingbirds when in full bloom.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Medium green
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nCleveland’s hardiness zone is 6, meaning the winters are cold and summers are warm. The plants listed here are native to Cleveland and survive nicely in the area’s climate. Select a plant that best suits your lawn’s conditions and satisfies your requirements.
\n\n\n\nIf you have children and pets playing on your lawn, we suggest you choose non-toxic plants. Make sure to consider a plant’s growing size when you purchase it. Some plants grow too big, which may not suit your yard.
\n\n\n\nHere are Cleveland nurseries that sell native plants.
\n\n\n\nSometimes, native plants may be already growing on your lawn. So, don’t forget to look around your yard for these plants.
\n\n\n\nNative plants can increase the appeal of your yard. But your lawn won’t be complete without planting the best grass types in Cleveland. A lush, green, and healthy lawn is a combination of everything, including proper maintenance.
\n\n\n\nIf you want someone to help you to maintain your lawn, consider hiring Wikilawn Cleveland lawn care experts.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"10 Best Native Plants for Cleveland, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/1789c/Native-plants-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/107df/Native-plants-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/293e9/Native-plants-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/f2cbb/Native-plants-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/1789c/Native-plants-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/c26c2/Native-plants-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/1dd6e/Native-plants-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/67b76/Native-plants-1.webp 320w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/8df11/Native-plants-1.webp 500w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/98a65/Native-plants-1.webp 800w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/1dd6e/Native-plants-1.webp 960w,\n/static/4b65b5c09faaee1d704dc648ce390c0f/3cc96/Native-plants-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"10 Best Native Plants for Cleveland, OH | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Turn your ordinary yard into a heavenly paradise by installing native plants that look great and thrive in Cleveland's diverse climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"e1895252-142c-52f8-9eef-cbe24b41612b","slug":"best-grass-types-columbus-ohio","path":"/lawn-care/oh/best-grass-types-columbus-ohio/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"May 4th, 2021","excerpt":"If you’re looking for new grass on your capital city lawn, we have four choices for you to consider: Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescues. Columbus, Ohio, lawns need cool-season grasses to endure the wide temperature swings throughout the year, but after that, the choice is yours. Here are some things to […]
\n","content":"\nIf you’re looking for new grass on your capital city lawn, we have four choices for you to consider: Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescues.
\n\n\n\nColumbus, Ohio, lawns need cool-season grasses to endure the wide temperature swings throughout the year, but after that, the choice is yours.
\n\n\n\nHere are some things to consider before grabbing the first bag of cool-season grass you see at the home supply store:
\n\n\n\nIf you like to host get-togethers or flag football games on your lawn, consider a grass with a high foot traffic tolerance. Shade is another big consideration for lawns. If you have partial shade in your lawn, you’ll likely need a mix with sun-shade tolerance.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a closer look at each of these four best grass types for Columbus, Ohio, lawns:
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a beautiful but high-maintenance lawn. It is often found in a mix with other grass species on this list. It requires full sun and needs regular watering to maintain a healthy, green look.
\n\n\n\nIf you have flower beds that border your lawn, put concrete or metal edging around them. Kentucky bluegrass rhizomes have a reputation for spreading and will tunnel underground to start growing new grass in your flower beds.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
Spreads by: Rhizomes
Shade Tolerance: Low
Drought tolerance: Moderate to High*
Foot traffic tolerance: Moderate, but will recuperate fast due to its network of rhizomes.
Maintenance Needs: High
Mowing Height: 2” – 2 1/2”
Potential for Disease: Moderate to high
Other Notes: Kentucky bluegrass is susceptible to grubs and may be susceptible to thinning in early summer. Too much nitrogen or water leads to a high level of thatch, so annual aeration is sometimes necessary to keep this in check.
\n\n\n\n* This grass will go dormant if not watered regularly. However, it has an excellent ability to recover from drought. This is due to its network of rhizomes that help it stay alive during drought and recover quickly once watering resumes.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is often combined with Kentucky bluegrass and has excellent foot traffic tolerance. Like Kentucky bluegrass, it prefers full sun and has a moderate to high maintenance requirement.
\n\n\n\nSince it has no stolons or rhizomes, perennial ryegrass will not form thatch, which is helpful, especially if it is used in a mix with Kentucky bluegrass. It will develop a deep root system and therefore has a moderate drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
Spreads by: No stolons or rhizomes. Bare patches will need to be re-seeded.
Shade Tolerance: Low – requires sun
Drought tolerance: Moderate
Foot traffic tolerance: High
Maintenance Needs: Moderate to high
Mowing Height: 2” – 3”
Potential for Disease: High
Other Notes: A sharp mower blade is required to cut through perennial ryegrass’s sturdy leaves. Endophyte-enhanced seed may help to reduce insect pressure.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for a low-maintenance grass with a high foot traffic tolerance, turf-type tall fescue is worth considering. This cool-season grass forms deep roots and can withstand most Ohio droughts with little to no watering.
\n\n\n\nUse an improved variety of tall fescue for the best results. (Kentucky 31 is not recommended for home lawns.)
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
Spreads by: Depends on the variety. Most varieties are bunching. Some varieties have short rhizomes.
Shade Tolerance: Partial shade
Drought tolerance: High
Foot traffic tolerance: High
Maintenance Needs: Low
Mowing Height: 2.5” – 3.5”
Potential for Disease: Low to medium
Other Notes: Use a blend of two or three cultivars if you’re not mixing with another grass species. Excessive water or fertilization can lead to pest and disease issues, but endophyte-enhanced seed can help reduce insect pressure.
\n\n\n\nFine fescues grow well in acidic soil and have a low potential for thatch. Fine fescues also require little nitrogen, which furthers their reputation as a relatively low-maintenance grass. Fine fescues often come in grass mixes with other species, such as Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
Spreads by: This is a bunching grass — no stolons or rhizomes. Creeping red fescue is an exception and has short rhizomes.
Shade Tolerance: Partial shade
Drought tolerance: High
Foot traffic tolerance: Low
Maintenance Needs: Low to moderate
Mowing Height: 2” – 3”
Potential for Disease: Low to moderate
Other Notes: Consider endophyte-enhanced seed. Endophytes are a type of fungus that repels billbugs, sod webworms, and chinch bugs, reducing insect pressure in the lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhichever of the four grass types you choose, you should have a green lawn ready for outdoor cookouts, games of flag football, and able to weather the cooler winters common in Columbus, Ohio.
\n\n\n\nWant a second opinion on the best grass type for your Columbus lawn — or someone to mow your grass? Hire a lawn care pro who can help you choose and install the ideal grass seed for your lawn’s needs or who can keep your yard looking fit and trim.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Dan Keck | Flickr | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Columbus Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/1789c/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/107df/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg 320w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/293e9/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg 500w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/f2cbb/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg 800w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/1789c/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg 960w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/c26c2/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/1dd6e/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/67b76/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp 320w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/8df11/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp 500w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/98a65/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp 800w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/1dd6e/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp 960w,\n/static/bfd183454829c12ef9ba3112cb0dd358/3cc96/rsz_49199500373_aedbe54b4d_h.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Columbus Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What are the best grass types for Columbus, Ohio, homes? Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescues."}}},{"node":{"id":"7ae7cbeb-9983-5aef-a412-86ed8f13ca72","slug":"common-lawn-weeds-ohio","path":"/lawn-care/oh/common-lawn-weeds-ohio/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"May 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Weeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both. In this article: How Weeds Harm Your Ohio Lawn? Weeds steal […]
\n","content":"\nWeeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal water, air, and nutrients from your grass and desirable plants. If there are weeds on your lawn when you fertilize them, they will quickly soak the nutrients, leaving your grass weak and prone to diseases and pests.
\n\n\n\nWeeds spread quicker than you’d imagine. So, take immediate action when you spot them. Weeds love low-nitrogen soils and thinning grass. With routine lawn maintenance, you can keep weeds under check.
\n\n\n\nYou can kill weeds with the good old hand-pulling technique and herbicides.
\n\n\n\nIf you have only a few weeds, it’s best to get rid of them by hand weeding. When pulling a weed, make sure to remove it entirely with the roots. Also, don’t forget to wear gloves, as many weeds cause skin irritation.
\n\n\n\nWeeds like dandelions have a taproot system, which can be hard to remove. You can use a dandelion fork or screwdriver to pry them loose.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf you want to control weeds before they germinate, using pre-emergent herbicides is the only way. They kill the infant root system, preventing the weeds from growing. Early spring is the best time to apply pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides are available in both granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf the weeds have already started to show up and there are too many of them to pluck by hand, use post-emergent herbicides. The weeds absorb the herbicide and die as the chemical travels down the root system. Post-emergent herbicides come in granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergents is when the weed is actively growing, usually during the spring.
\n\n\n\nNote: Avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day to prevent harming other ornamental plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Dandelion-Taraxacum-Officinale.jpg\")
Photo Credit: AnemoneProjectors / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nDandelions look good and actually have many medicinal benefits. But they’re invasive and can take over your lawn in no time. Dandelions usually start growing during spring, producing bright yellow ray flowers. These flowers mature into fluffy, white seeds that disperse by the wind.
\n\n\n\nYou can apply pre-emergent herbicides during early spring to prevent dandelions from germinating. This weed has a strong taproot, penetrating the soil up to 18 inches. Removing it by hand is very difficult, so we recommend using post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide (prodiamine), post-emergent herbicide (triclopyr)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Spotted-Spurge-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge is a low-growing, short-lived annual broadleaf plant with a mat-like growth habit. The stems of this plant choke desirable grasses. So, it’s not something you want to have on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge has a long taproot, making it difficult to remove manually. So, using herbicides is a more practical option. Spurge usually affects thinning grass. With proper fertilization, irrigation, and mowing, you can prevent this weed altogether.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; dry, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (pendimethalin), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellowe](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Black-Medic-Medicago-Lupulina.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBlack medic is a low-growing, short-lived perennial that produces small yellow flowers in clover-like clusters. It’s hairy, particularly the stems. The oval-shaped leaves grow in groups of three. Hand weeding works well for removing black medic as it grows from a central location.
\n\n\n\nBlack medic only affects compacted soil, so if you spot this weed in your lawn, it indicates that your grass needs aeration.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained fertile soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Knotweed-Reynoutria-Japonica.jpg\")
Photo Credit: W.carter / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed spreads quickly and grows fast. It reaches up to 15 feet in height, suppressing the growth of your turf grass and other plants. Removing Japanese knotweed by hand is next to impossible. In fact, even with herbicides, it takes about three years to eliminate Japanese knotweed.
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed starts growing during summer. Applying pre-emergent herbicides in early spring can prevent it from germinating.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (prodiamine), post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yellow-Woodsorrel-Oxalis-Stricta.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dcrjsr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel has clover-shaped leaves that remain open during the day and fold at night. It blooms from mid-spring to fall, producing small, five-petaled yellow flowers. Common yellow woodsorrel grows best in partial shade and moist soil but is highly adaptable and can withstand various conditions.
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel can be removed manually or using post-emergent herbicides that contain triclopyr. Late spring is the best time to use these herbicides as the weed will still be small.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Buckhorn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Buckhorn-Plantain-Plantago-Lanceolata.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBuckhorn plantain is easy to identify from its narrow, lance-like leaves and tall flower stalks. It usually grows in compacted soil and poorly irrigated lawns. Aerating your lawn and correctly watering it can help prevent this weed from growing.
\n\n\n\nLike some of the other weeds on this list, buckhorn plantain has a taproot system, making it difficult to remove with your hands. However, many herbicides effectively work against this weed.
\n\n\n\nFun fact: Buckhorn plantain can reduce the pain of insect stings because it contains antiseptic alkaloids.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; sandy, dry, low fertility soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/White-Clover-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nWhite clover is an attractive broadleaf perennial that blooms from mid-spring to late summer, producing small, white flowers that bees love. It also has many benefits. However, white clover is invasive and can quickly take over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover usually grows in areas with partial shade, but you can also find it in sunny spots. You can use post-emergent herbicides to get rid of this weed or remove it manually.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (isoxaben), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Puple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Ground-Ivy-Glechoma-Hederacea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nGround-ivy, otherwise known as creeping Charlie, spreads vigorously, choking your grass and ornamental plants. It has aromatic, fan-shaped leaves with scalloped edges. It also features funnel-shaped, purplish flowers near the tip.
\n\n\n\nIf ground-ivy is affecting only part of your lawn, it’s best to remove it manually. You can use post-emergent herbicides if there are too many of them. Also, don’t forget to apply pre-emergent herbicides in the upcoming spring to prevent this pesky invader from coming back.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial to full shade; damp, clay soil with good fertility
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chickweed-Stellaria-Media.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean and Fred Hort / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nChickweed is a low-growing perennial that produces star-shaped, white flowers during spring. This weed affects compacted soil, so, aerating your lawn at the correct intervals can prevent chickweed from sprouting.
\n\n\n\nChickweed is hard to get rid of completely. You can remove it manually along with the roots and apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring to prevent it from returning.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; rich, moist, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Crabgrass-Digitaria-Sanguinalis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rasbak / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass is among the most common weeds in Ohio. Many homeowners mistake it for their grass, especially fescues, but it is thicker and a darker green.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass only spreads by seeds and not rhizomes. So using pre-emergent herbicides prevents the seeds from germinating. If crabgrass is already growing, remove it by hand or use post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Bull](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bull-Thistle-Cirsium-Vulgare.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ron Clausen / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nBull thistle is a fast-growing perennial weed that thrives in moderately moist soil. It flowers from early summer to fall, producing bright pink flowers. The leaves have long, sharp spines, so be cautious when removing this weed manually.
\n\n\n\nYou can use post-emergent herbicides after bull thistle flowers to eradicate it. Also, it’s easy to prevent this weed from spreading as it doesn’t have rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Biennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 2 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; moderately moist, nitrogen-rich soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Slender-Speedwell-Veronica-Filiformis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell is a low-growing plant with a mat-like growth habit. You can identify it with its small, kidney-shaped leaves and lilac blue four-petal flowers that appear during spring. Slender speedwell may look beautiful, but it spreads very fast. You can remove it manually or use herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell usually attacks weak turf. So, with proper fertilization, aeration, and mowing, you can prevent this pesky invader from returning. Don’t forget to use pre-emergents during early spring.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Different](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Purslane-Portulaca-Oleracea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mokkie / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane is a low-growing plant with red multi-branched stems and succulent leaves. It has a mat-like growth habit and produces small, star-shaped yellow flowers with five petals.
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane has a long taproot system, so hand-weeding can be difficult yet effective. You can also use post-emergent herbicides with dicamba to eliminate common purslane. To prevent this weed from coming back, apply pre-emergent herbicides with dithiopyr.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (dicamba), hand removal
\n\n\n\nIt’s nearly impossible to achieve a weed-free lawn. But, with proper maintenance and by applying pre-emergent herbicides, you can prevent weeds from germinating to a great extent.
Preventing weeds altogether is next to impossible as they are inevitable. But here are some tips to achieve an almost weed-free lawn.
• Test your soil and fertilize your lawn with the nutrients it needs.
• Apply a thick layer of organic mulch around your flower bed. Mulch deprives weeds of light, preventing these pesky invaders from germinating.
• Apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring.
• Weeds love the sun, so grow ornamental plants close together to crowd out weeds.
• If you notice a weed, pull it out from its root to prevent it from spreading.
Selective herbicides work against a particular weed. Non-selective herbicides work against many weeds. But they can also harm beneficial plants. So, use them with caution.
No one likes weeds. If you want to prevent these pesky invaders from growing on your lawn, routine lawn maintenance is a must. Also, when you spot a weed, remove it immediately to stop spreading.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help eliminating the weeds taking over your beautiful lawn, call Wikilawn Ohio lawn care pros. We can also help you with your routine lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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