![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Dandelion-Taraxacum-Officinale.jpg\")
Weeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both. In this article: How Weeds Harm Your Ohio Lawn? Weeds steal […]
\n","content":"\nWeeds are a nuisance that can wreck the lawn you’ve spent so much time cultivating. Identifying the weeds is half the battle; knowing how to deal with them is the other half. This guide on common lawn weeds in Ohio helps you accomplish both.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal water, air, and nutrients from your grass and desirable plants. If there are weeds on your lawn when you fertilize them, they will quickly soak the nutrients, leaving your grass weak and prone to diseases and pests.
\n\n\n\nWeeds spread quicker than you’d imagine. So, take immediate action when you spot them. Weeds love low-nitrogen soils and thinning grass. With routine lawn maintenance, you can keep weeds under check.
\n\n\n\nYou can kill weeds with the good old hand-pulling technique and herbicides.
\n\n\n\nIf you have only a few weeds, it’s best to get rid of them by hand weeding. When pulling a weed, make sure to remove it entirely with the roots. Also, don’t forget to wear gloves, as many weeds cause skin irritation.
\n\n\n\nWeeds like dandelions have a taproot system, which can be hard to remove. You can use a dandelion fork or screwdriver to pry them loose.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf you want to control weeds before they germinate, using pre-emergent herbicides is the only way. They kill the infant root system, preventing the weeds from growing. Early spring is the best time to apply pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides are available in both granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nIf the weeds have already started to show up and there are too many of them to pluck by hand, use post-emergent herbicides. The weeds absorb the herbicide and die as the chemical travels down the root system. Post-emergent herbicides come in granular and liquid forms.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergents is when the weed is actively growing, usually during the spring.
\n\n\n\nNote: Avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day to prevent harming other ornamental plants.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: AnemoneProjectors / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nDandelions look good and actually have many medicinal benefits. But they’re invasive and can take over your lawn in no time. Dandelions usually start growing during spring, producing bright yellow ray flowers. These flowers mature into fluffy, white seeds that disperse by the wind.
\n\n\n\nYou can apply pre-emergent herbicides during early spring to prevent dandelions from germinating. This weed has a strong taproot, penetrating the soil up to 18 inches. Removing it by hand is very difficult, so we recommend using post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicide (prodiamine), post-emergent herbicide (triclopyr)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Spotted-Spurge-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge is a low-growing, short-lived annual broadleaf plant with a mat-like growth habit. The stems of this plant choke desirable grasses. So, it’s not something you want to have on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge has a long taproot, making it difficult to remove manually. So, using herbicides is a more practical option. Spurge usually affects thinning grass. With proper fertilization, irrigation, and mowing, you can prevent this weed altogether.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; dry, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (pendimethalin), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellowe](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Black-Medic-Medicago-Lupulina.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBlack medic is a low-growing, short-lived perennial that produces small yellow flowers in clover-like clusters. It’s hairy, particularly the stems. The oval-shaped leaves grow in groups of three. Hand weeding works well for removing black medic as it grows from a central location.
\n\n\n\nBlack medic only affects compacted soil, so if you spot this weed in your lawn, it indicates that your grass needs aeration.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained fertile soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Knotweed-Reynoutria-Japonica.jpg\")
Photo Credit: W.carter / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed spreads quickly and grows fast. It reaches up to 15 feet in height, suppressing the growth of your turf grass and other plants. Removing Japanese knotweed by hand is next to impossible. In fact, even with herbicides, it takes about three years to eliminate Japanese knotweed.
\n\n\n\nJapanese knotweed starts growing during summer. Applying pre-emergent herbicides in early spring can prevent it from germinating.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (prodiamine), post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yellow-Woodsorrel-Oxalis-Stricta.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dcrjsr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel has clover-shaped leaves that remain open during the day and fold at night. It blooms from mid-spring to fall, producing small, five-petaled yellow flowers. Common yellow woodsorrel grows best in partial shade and moist soil but is highly adaptable and can withstand various conditions.
\n\n\n\nCommon yellow woodsorrel can be removed manually or using post-emergent herbicides that contain triclopyr. Late spring is the best time to use these herbicides as the weed will still be small.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Buckhorn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Buckhorn-Plantain-Plantago-Lanceolata.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBuckhorn plantain is easy to identify from its narrow, lance-like leaves and tall flower stalks. It usually grows in compacted soil and poorly irrigated lawns. Aerating your lawn and correctly watering it can help prevent this weed from growing.
\n\n\n\nLike some of the other weeds on this list, buckhorn plantain has a taproot system, making it difficult to remove with your hands. However, many herbicides effectively work against this weed.
\n\n\n\nFun fact: Buckhorn plantain can reduce the pain of insect stings because it contains antiseptic alkaloids.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; sandy, dry, low fertility soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/White-Clover-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nWhite clover is an attractive broadleaf perennial that blooms from mid-spring to late summer, producing small, white flowers that bees love. It also has many benefits. However, white clover is invasive and can quickly take over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover usually grows in areas with partial shade, but you can also find it in sunny spots. You can use post-emergent herbicides to get rid of this weed or remove it manually.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (isoxaben), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Puple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Ground-Ivy-Glechoma-Hederacea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nGround-ivy, otherwise known as creeping Charlie, spreads vigorously, choking your grass and ornamental plants. It has aromatic, fan-shaped leaves with scalloped edges. It also features funnel-shaped, purplish flowers near the tip.
\n\n\n\nIf ground-ivy is affecting only part of your lawn, it’s best to remove it manually. You can use post-emergent herbicides if there are too many of them. Also, don’t forget to apply pre-emergent herbicides in the upcoming spring to prevent this pesky invader from coming back.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Partial to full shade; damp, clay soil with good fertility
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dacthal), post-emergent (triclopyr), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chickweed-Stellaria-Media.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean and Fred Hort / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nChickweed is a low-growing perennial that produces star-shaped, white flowers during spring. This weed affects compacted soil, so, aerating your lawn at the correct intervals can prevent chickweed from sprouting.
\n\n\n\nChickweed is hard to get rid of completely. You can remove it manually along with the roots and apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring to prevent it from returning.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual, short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 11
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun, partial shade, full shade; rich, moist, compacted soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Crabgrass-Digitaria-Sanguinalis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rasbak / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass is among the most common weeds in Ohio. Many homeowners mistake it for their grass, especially fescues, but it is thicker and a darker green.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass only spreads by seeds and not rhizomes. So using pre-emergent herbicides prevents the seeds from germinating. If crabgrass is already growing, remove it by hand or use post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Bull](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bull-Thistle-Cirsium-Vulgare.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ron Clausen / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nBull thistle is a fast-growing perennial weed that thrives in moderately moist soil. It flowers from early summer to fall, producing bright pink flowers. The leaves have long, sharp spines, so be cautious when removing this weed manually.
\n\n\n\nYou can use post-emergent herbicides after bull thistle flowers to eradicate it. Also, it’s easy to prevent this weed from spreading as it doesn’t have rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Biennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 2 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; moderately moist, nitrogen-rich soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent (glyphosate)
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Slender-Speedwell-Veronica-Filiformis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell is a low-growing plant with a mat-like growth habit. You can identify it with its small, kidney-shaped leaves and lilac blue four-petal flowers that appear during spring. Slender speedwell may look beautiful, but it spreads very fast. You can remove it manually or use herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSlender speedwell usually attacks weak turf. So, with proper fertilization, aeration, and mowing, you can prevent this pesky invader from returning. Don’t forget to use pre-emergents during early spring.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (2,4-D), hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Different](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Purslane-Portulaca-Oleracea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mokkie / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane is a low-growing plant with red multi-branched stems and succulent leaves. It has a mat-like growth habit and produces small, star-shaped yellow flowers with five petals.
\n\n\n\nCommon purslane has a long taproot system, so hand-weeding can be difficult yet effective. You can also use post-emergent herbicides with dicamba to eliminate common purslane. To prevent this weed from coming back, apply pre-emergent herbicides with dithiopyr.
\n\n\n\nLife cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 10
\n\n\n\nGrowing condition: Full sun; well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nPossible hazards: Low
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent (dithiopyr), post-emergent (dicamba), hand removal
\n\n\n\nIt’s nearly impossible to achieve a weed-free lawn. But, with proper maintenance and by applying pre-emergent herbicides, you can prevent weeds from germinating to a great extent.
Preventing weeds altogether is next to impossible as they are inevitable. But here are some tips to achieve an almost weed-free lawn.
• Test your soil and fertilize your lawn with the nutrients it needs.
• Apply a thick layer of organic mulch around your flower bed. Mulch deprives weeds of light, preventing these pesky invaders from germinating.
• Apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring.
• Weeds love the sun, so grow ornamental plants close together to crowd out weeds.
• If you notice a weed, pull it out from its root to prevent it from spreading.
Selective herbicides work against a particular weed. Non-selective herbicides work against many weeds. But they can also harm beneficial plants. So, use them with caution.
No one likes weeds. If you want to prevent these pesky invaders from growing on your lawn, routine lawn maintenance is a must. Also, when you spot a weed, remove it immediately to stop spreading.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help eliminating the weeds taking over your beautiful lawn, call Wikilawn Ohio lawn care pros. We can also help you with your routine lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"13 Most Common Lawn Weeds in Ohio (And How To Control Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1789c/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg","srcSet":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/107df/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 320w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/293e9/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 500w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/f2cbb/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 800w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1789c/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 960w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/c26c2/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1dd6e/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/67b76/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 320w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/8df11/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 500w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/98a65/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 800w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/1dd6e/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 960w,\n/static/561e3319e17dfd3257bef60eaa600155/3cc96/Common-Lawn-Weeds-in-Ohio.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"13 Most Common Lawn Weeds in Ohio (And How To Control Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Weeds can take over your lawn quicker than you'd imagine. Here are some common lawn weeds in Ohio and measures to control them."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"c5ef6238-ac97-57ac-96bd-feccea1e6ce6","slug":"fire-resistant-landscaping-montana","path":"/lawn-care/mt/fire-resistant-landscaping-montana/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"851f9dd2-d0b9-5a5b-a0a0-cf65224620d5","name":"Montana","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mt/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Montana is nicknamed “The Last Best Place” for its natural, rugged terrain. It is home to some of the last uninhabited areas in North America, and every year, residents expand further into its remote regions, increasing populations across the wild landscapes and the chances of wildfires. Wildfire activity continues to increase thanks to Montana’s semi-arid […]
\n","content":"\nMontana is nicknamed “The Last Best Place” for its natural, rugged terrain. It is home to some of the last uninhabited areas in North America, and every year, residents expand further into its remote regions, increasing populations across the wild landscapes and the chances of wildfires. Wildfire activity continues to increase thanks to Montana’s semi-arid climate. All residents, especially those living in Wildland-Urban Interface (WUI) areas in remote locations near undeveloped forests or grasslands, should implement these fire-resistant landscaping ideas to protect their homes, families, and landscapes.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nBenefits of Fire-Resistant Montana Landscaping
\n\n\n\n6 Fire-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana
\n\n\n\nFAQ About Fire-Resistant Landscaping in Montana
\n\n\n\nFire-resistant landscaping offers many benefits to Montanans, including:
\n\n\n\nWildfires are part of Montana’s past, present, and future. There is no such thing as a completely fireproof landscape. However, you can take steps to protect your home and yard through fire-smart landscaping practices.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Dethatcher.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nMay is Wildfire Awareness Month in Montana. The primary goal of firewise landscaping is to keep a wildfire low, minimizing its intensity. Wildfire risk reduction is an ongoing process requiring regular attention to landscape maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMontana wildfire preparedness lawn maintenance activities include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Three](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blanketflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMontana’s mountainous western regions, with their continental climates, receive over 35 inches of annual rainfall. Unfortunately, the steppe climates in the central and eastern regions of the Treasure State only receive around 15 inches of rain or less, far below the national average rainfall of 30 inches, creating a fire-prone habitat.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to note that no plant is fireproof, and any plant will burn under the right conditions. However, some plants resist ignition and are better suited to withstanding extreme heat. Fire behavior, climate, moisture content, plant size, and flammable or inflammable compounds inside bark or leaves all affect a landscape’s ability to resist ignition.
\n\n\n\nCheck out some of the best fire-resistant plants for the Treasure State:
\n\n\n\nHerbaceous Perennials
\n\n\n\nLow-Growing Groundcover
\n\n\n\nMontana Turfgrass
\n\n\n\nTrees and Shrubs
\n\n\n\nSucculents
\n\n\n\nNot all landscape plants are created equal. In fact, most succulents, salt-tolerant plants, and deciduous trees and shrubs are naturally fire-resistant. Watch for the following characteristics when choosing non-native and native Montana plants:
\n\n\n\nConversely, avoid the following characteristics when choosing landscape plants:
\n\n\n\nFirewise construction comes together with your firescaping to create a complete, fire-resistant landscape. FIrewise structures must reduce fuel sources and exposure. Like plants, not all materials are created equal and many construction materials are combustible.
\n\n\n\nLook for the following characteristics:
\n\n\n\nDefensible space, now known as survivable space, involves modifying landscape design, building materials, and inorganic and organic fuel sources to decrease the likelihood of home ignition caused by wildfire. Fire experts encourage all Montana homeowners to firescape and maintain their survivable space, 100 to 200 feet in all directions. This area is known as the Home Ignition Zone (HIZ).
\n\n\n\nYour home is more likely to survive a wildfire without fire suppression and intervention if grasses, plants, trees, and man-made structures are spaced regularly to reduce a fire’s intensity.
\n\n\n\nMontana recognizes three home zones:
\n\n\n\n| Zone | Distance from Structure | Things to Avoid | Recommendations |
| Zone 1 | 0-30 feet | • Woody, aromatic, or resinous plants • Closely spaced plants • Organic mulch • Woodpiles • Wooden decks, pergolas, or trellises | • Fire-resistant plants, shrubs, and trees • Short, green, well-maintained turfgrass • 100-foot garden hose attached to home • Gravel, flagstone, and non-flammable composite decking and hardscapes • Accessible driveway with visible address |
| Zone 2 | 30-100 feet | • Vegetation near wood piles, fuel tanks, or outbuildings • Dense, closely-spaced vegetation • Organic debris piles | • Location for storage shed or outbuilding • Recycle or compost instead of burning • Thin and prune coniferous trees • Store woodpiles and propane tanks |
| Zone 3 | 100-200+ feet | • Dense thickets of shrubs or trees • Overgrowth | • Prune and thin trees • Regularly monitor re-sprouting |
![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hardscaping.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sailko / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nNative plants are adapted to the harsh and dry conditions of Big Sky Country. The unpredictable weather can make outdoor lawn maintenance a burden, while the semi-arid climate makes growing a dense, green yard difficult. Consider hardscaping your backyard to add sustainable visual interest while eliminating the need for weekly maintenance and watering and reducing your landscape’s fire risk.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are man-made features, including:
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are a set-it-and-forget-it choice for your landscape. They don’t require watering, pruning, or mowing. In fact, they don’t require maintenance at all except for an annual cleaning. Be sure to consider materials and location when choosing and installing your hardscapes. Keep wooden structures away from vegetation inside Zone 2 of your home’s survivable space. Stone hardscapes and garden paths make great additions to Zone 1.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nAccording to the National Park Service, humans cause almost 85% of all wildfires in the the U.S. Creating defensible space, maintaining your landscape, and planting fire-resistant species are small steps you can take to help increase the survivability of your property while using common sense and adopting fire-smart habits to decrease Montana’s chances of wildfires.
\n\n\n\nFire-smart habits include:
\n\n\n\nYes. Your roof comprises two-thirds of your home’s outer structure, and it is its most vulnerable component. It can easily catch fire from floating embers. Select a Class A roofing material for the best fire resistance and limit the length of eaves and overhangs.
Montana’s fire season runs from May through October, but wildfires can occur at any time under the right conditions.
In Montana, human negligence from debris burning, campfires, or landscaping and farm equipment cause 75% of all wildfires.
Fire-prone regions like Big Sky Country are arid, and drought-resistant landscaping performs best under these conditions. Switching to drought-resistant landscaping means less time, effort, water, weeding, mowing, and pests. In steppe climates like Montana where average rainfall is less than 15 inches per year, water conservation is important. Consider integrating our drought-resistant landscaping tips into your fire-resistant landscape.
\n\n\n\nFire-resistant landscaping is only a small part of your fire preparedness plan. From designing evacuation routes to creating emergency supply kits and securing furry family members, there is a lot to consider.
Give yourself peace of mind and check one thing off your to-do list. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local landscaping company that can handle your fire-resistant landscape design.
Main Photo by: Jeremy Levine / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"6 Fire-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/1789c/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/107df/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg 320w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/293e9/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg 500w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/f2cbb/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg 800w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/1789c/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg 960w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/c26c2/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/1dd6e/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/67b76/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp 320w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/8df11/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp 500w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/98a65/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp 800w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/1dd6e/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp 960w,\n/static/b8762ae6facb6fa9bbbfd0777b6b5c8f/3cc96/rsz_fire_resistant_landscaping_ideas.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Fire-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Keep your property safe from wildfire with these 6 fire-resistant landscaping ideas for Montana and enhance your outdoor space while staying protected."}}},{"node":{"id":"5fc7656f-555a-5c98-8e1f-8e6c5ee9567b","slug":"identify-common-lawn-problems","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/identify-common-lawn-problems/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nicki DeStasi is a writer, author, and teacher who grew up in western Massachusetts and currently resides in the Austin area. She enjoys flower and vegetable gardening, reading, cooking, listening to true-crime podcasts, and spending time with her husband, two children, dog, and cat.","name":"Nicki DeStasi","id":"ffbf62e2-d627-5a5f-a041-4eaa9ac66924","path":"/author/nicki-destasi/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9846092d7afb2db8d0a4daa2454074f0?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 30th, 2018","excerpt":"A healthy lawn is good for your soul, but lawn care problems are not. Austin is home to Lady Bird Lake, live music, and food truck tacos, but it also has compacted soil, high temperatures, and minimal rain. These factors cause problems that devastate a healthy lawn. Read on to discover how to identify common […]
\n","content":"\nA healthy lawn is good for your soul, but lawn care problems are not. Austin is home to Lady Bird Lake, live music, and food truck tacos, but it also has compacted soil, high temperatures, and minimal rain. These factors cause problems that devastate a healthy lawn. Read on to discover how to identify common lawn care problems in Austin and how to fix them.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll discover:
\n\n\n\nFrom dollar spot to drought, Austin has more than its fair share of lawn problems. Learn how to identify and solve common lawn problems in Austin.
\n\n\n\nWith the high temperatures and minimal rainfall, warm-season grasses thrive best in Austin lawns. However, not all warm-season grass types can handle compacted soils. If you’re having trouble growing a thick lawn, consider switching your grass type.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types for Austin lawns are:
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is light-green and fine-textured. This fast-growing grass is used in home lawns, sports fields, and parks. It has excellent drought tolerance, high traffic tolerance, and low to moderate disease potential. However, it has low shade tolerance and is moderately high maintenance.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass grows quickly, creating a thick, coarsely textured, dark green lawn. Its nickname is “carpet grass” thanks to its dense growth habit. It has good drought tolerance and high shade tolerance but is more vulnerable to chinch bugs than other warm-season cultivars. St. Augustinegrass has low traffic tolerance and high disease potential.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is soft, fine-textured, and gray-green or blue-green. Although slow-growing, it won’t invade flower beds like many fast-growing grass types. It has excellent drought tolerance, very low water needs, and goes dormant later than other warm-season grass types. The downside is it has low traffic and shade tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is emerald green with a medium to fine leaf texture. It grows quickly and stays green longer than most warm-season specimens. It has low to moderate disease potential, great drought tolerance, and moderate to high traffic tolerance. However, it recovers slowly and requires moderate maintenance
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven the healthiest lawns can develop a disease. Once a lawn disease takes hold, the problem continues to worsen until the disease is eradicated. Three factors converge to cause lawn disease:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch causes a smoke ring, resembling a grayish-purple-bordered ring. This fungal disease doesn’t affect grass roots but will infect the blades and leave brown patches in your lawn. It develops with a wet lawn and nighttime temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Brown patch affects bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nTake all patch is a fungal disease that is most active during moist spring’s moderate temperatures. This devastating, hard-to-control disease begins with yellowing leaves and darkening roots. Soon, turf thins as the roots and stolons turn black and die. Take all patch effects bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nIn the spring through fall, dollar spot present as round, white or tan, silver dollar-sized circles. This fungal disease is active when the grass is wet for 10 to 12 hours daily and the nights are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Drainage, mowing, and foot traffic spread dollar spot. This disease affects most grasses, including bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and buffalograss.
\n\n\n\nDuring spring and early summer, gray leaf spot develops on St. Augustinegrass and buffalograss when the temperature is warm, and the grass is moist, especially in shaded areas. The fungus causes oval, tan lesions with brown or purplish borders on the grass blades. When the grass eventually dies, the turf appears burned or scorched.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustine Decline, or SAD, is an incurable viral disease that only affects St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass. At first, SAD resembles nutrient deficiency or insect issues. The grass blades appear spotty, yellow, and weak, and the stolon growth will slow. When fertilizers and fungal treatments do not help your declining turfgrass, it’s probably SAD.
\n\n\n\nRust prefers warm, humid conditions and grass stressed by drought, low nitrogen, and shade. This fungal disease begins as small orange to reddish-brown flecks that enlarge to form small, oval blisters containing powdery orange to reddish-brown spores. The blisters turn black, and the leaf dies. Rust affects Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nThe majority of lawn diseases are fungal, so using a fungicide is the best solution. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions. Too much fungicide burns grass, and too little is ineffective.
\n\n\n\nIf you prefer a natural solution, there are a few options, including:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPests are a nuisance and bad for lawns. There are two types of pests in Austin that cause lawn damage: insects and wildlife.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass are more pest-prone while Zoysiagrass and buffalograss are more resistant. If a problem pops up, act fast before the pests spread, causing irreversible damage.
\n\n\n\nFire ants damage lawns by tunneling and creating ant hills. Their mounds can grow up to 18 inches tall. Apply fire ant bait, following the manufacturer’s directions. Sometimes the colony will abandon the mound and create a new one a few yards away. If this cycle continues, consider hiring a professional to handle the problem.
\n\n\n\nGrubs are small, fat, white, c-shaped beetle larvae with burnt orange heads and six legs near the front of their body. Grubs feast on your grass roots, causing brown spots and dead turf. To eliminate them, use a grub-specific pesticide. For a natural method, apply nematodes or milky spores. Regular dethatching and aeration help by limiting their food supply.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs are tiny black insects with white wings. They suck the sap from the base and stolons of grass blades before injecting a toxic substance that prevents the plant from transporting water. Without water, patches of your lawn turn yellow and eventually die. In the spring, apply preventive insecticides. In the summer and fall, use targeted insecticides.
\n\n\n\nDespite the name, armyworms are dark brown caterpillars with white, orange, or yellow stripes. They devour grass blades. Use commercial-grade pesticides to prevent these invaders, and maintain your lawn, as they like dense, thatched, moist areas.
\n\n\n\nNote: Mow and irrigate your lawn a full twenty-four hours before insecticide applications. It’s best to use a broad-spectrum non-repellent insecticide containing carbaryl or pyrethroid to treat affected areas. Experts advise applying preventative treatments in May and June.
\n\n\n\nDespite being the 10th largest city in the country, Austin has a surprising amount of wildlife. While it’s lovely to see nature’s friends as you bustle about your day, they can pose problems for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDeer are among the most troublesome animals affecting yards. They eat vegetation such as flowers, young leaves, and broad-leaf weeds. Sprinkling dog or human hair around your lawn helps keep them at bay or try a deer-repellent product found at Lowe’s, Tractor Supply, or other home outdoor retailers.
\n\n\n\nRaccoons, skunks, and opossums tear up lawns looking for insects or places to bury nuts. Keep a close eye on insect problems to restrict the food supply for these animals. Apply capsaicin or mint to repel these invaders. However, note that you will need to reapply after rainfall.
\n\n\n\nRabbits love to eat grass, and their concentrated urine causes brown spots. If you notice spots in your area that appear to be mowed down, you may have a rabbit problem. To stop Thumper, spray odors on your grass, like capsaicin, castor oil, or predator urine.
\n\n\n\nNot all tunneling animals will eat your plants and grass, but they do destroy your lawn. Moles won’t eat your lawn, but they love digging for bugs. Voles and gophers feast on grass and roots. Use traps, bait, or repellent. For a natural method, try peppermint oil, castor oil, coyote, cat, and dog urine, garlic, coffee grounds, fish oil, or scented dryer sheets.
\n\n\n\nCats and dogs dig and urinate on lawns and flower beds, causing brown spots. To keep cats and dogs off your lawn, try repellent, motion-activated sprinklers, or ultrasonic devices. For a more natural solution, try using citrus, coffee grounds, vinegar, pipe tobacco, blood meal, or essential oils.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chickweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chickweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds love an unhealthy lawn and signify a deeper problem. To make matters worse, weeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your grass, all while creating an ideal environment for pests and diseases. One of the best ways to control weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are two ways to control weeds: chemical treatments and hand pulling. Often, hand pulling is the safest way to remove weeds. Identify the type of weed before selecting your removal method to ensure proper elimination.
\n\n\n\nFollow these weeding tips:
\n\n\n\nWeeds are everywhere, but some are a bigger pain in the grass than others. Here are a few particularly nasty Austin weeds.
\n\n\n\nAnnual sow thistle grows everywhere, including roadsides, lawns, and gardens. Like dandelions, they have yellow flowers that turn into white, fluffy seeds that attract and harbor pests.
\n\n\n\nChickweed is challenging to remove. One plant has over 25,000 seeds that stay viable for ten years. It grows in a thick mat and is identifiable by its small, smooth, oval-with-a-point leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers. Chickweed sucks the nitrogen from the soil, depleting resources.
\n\n\n\nNutsedge is often declared the world’s worst weed. It resembles grass but grows twice as fast. Its roots are tubers and rhizomatous that grow 6 to 12 inches deep. Nutsedge is horrible because if you rip out the plant, the tubers are left behind to create new plants. To eliminate nutsedge, apply multiple treatments.
\n\n\n\nAlthough there are 35 crabgrass varieties, smooth crabgrass thrives in Austin’s warm weather. It grows everywhere. Smooth crabgrass is low-growing with dull green leaves. It tolerates mowing and produces seeds, making it difficult to eliminate.
\n\n\n\nSpotted spurge is a prostrate-growing, groundcover plant. It has small, dark green, oval leaves with a dark red to purple spot in the middle. Spotted Surge is a skin irritant to some people and toxic to some animals.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCompacted soil and thatch will strangle a lawn, but they also attract pests and disease. Unfortunately, Austin’s soil is prone to soil compaction and thatch.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil has pore space that allows water, oxygen, and nutrients to filter to roots. Compacted soil is pressed together, reducing pore space and disallowing roots to grow. Compacted soil stunts and starves grass. It also reduces beneficial earthworm activity, which boosts fertility, breaks down thatch, and improves soil structure.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration relieves compacted soils. It is the process of removing plugs from the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate your lawn. Plugs are about 2 to 3 inches long, three-quarter inches wide, and 3 to 4 inches apart, allowing roots to grow deeply, creating a stronger, more robust lawn. You can purchase or rent an aerator from a home improvement store.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of dead and living roots. You get thatch build-up when turf produces grass faster than it is broken down. Some thatch is good because it insulates the soil and retains water. But thatch over a half inch will reduce water and nutrient absorption, starving your grass.
\n\n\n\nMany Austin lawns are prone to thatch build-up, because:
\n\n\n\nThatch-prone grass types include:
\n\n\n\nTo get rid of thatch, you have a few options. Liquid dethatching increases enzymes and thatch-eating organisms. A dethatching rake works for mild thatch, but if you have moderate build-up or more, use a power-driven dethatcher.
\n\n\n\n![\"Orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Orange-sprinkler-in-dry-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bignai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBeing an Austinite, you know that summers are hot and dry, but sometimes we get even less rain than normal. Like all living things, your grass needs water to survive, so restricted water access causes stress. Grasses turn brown, go dormant, and in extreme cases, die.
\n\n\n\nHere are some best practices for lawn care during a drought:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/heatwave-gb5348e647_1280-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWatering practices have a powerful effect on your lawn’s health. Your grass and native plants are adapted to Austin’s USDA Hardiness Zone, 8, but they still face high temperatures, drought, and water restrictions. Consider investing in an automatic irrigation system that allows you to program it for your lawn’s needs.
\n\n\n\nFollow these tips to get the most out of your watering practices:
\n\n\n\nFollow the water recommendations for common Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Dont-Mow-too-much.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nImproper mowing causes brown, damaged turf. Proper mowing is one of the best ways to maintain a healthy lawn. This means mowing at the right time, the right frequency, and the right height.
\n\n\n\nFollow these mowing tips to maintain a healthy lawn:
\n\n\n\nKnowing when to mow is also critical for a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe frequency of mowing changes with the seasons. Growth rates vary by grass type, but here’s an approximate mowing schedule by season:
\n\n\n\nGrass type is a significant factor for mowing best practices. These are the recommended summer mowing heights and frequencies for popular Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Different-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: evgenyb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you start spreading fertilizer, be sure to understand your soil.
\n\n\n\nAustin has three ecoregions: the Edwards Plateau, the Blackland Prairies, and the Post Oak Savannah Floodplains. Each ecoregion has a different soil type:
\n\n\n\nOther factors that affect soil quality include:
\n\n\n\nKnowing your soil type is essential. Experts recommend getting your soil tested every 1 to 3 years. Once you receive your results, plan a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns need fertilization, but too much will burn the grass. Here are a few fertilizing tips to help you feed your lawn without causing damage:
\n\n\n\nThe average grass needs about 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, but each grass type differs. Here are the typical fertilization needs for common Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\n![\"Mushrooms](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Mushrooms-in-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe list of problems a lawn can face is as long as a child’s wish list to Santa. Along with the common lawn problems in this article, lawns can face many more challenges, including:
\n\n\n\nAll of these problems put stress on or kill healthy turfgrass, leaving you with a yellowing, thinning, or patchy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo solve yellow, thinning, or patchy grass, you first need to address the underlying problem. Whether it’s grubs or brown patch, solve the problem before beginning repair. To repair, remove dead grass, apply grass seed, and then water and fertilize as needed. If the underlying problem is the soil, address those needs before planting fresh sod or seed.
\n\n\n\nMany lawn problems that Austin faces can be avoided with routine maintenance. For more information on how to care for your turf, check out our comprehensive guide to summer lawn care in Austin.
\n\n\n\nYes, lawn care chemicals can be dangerous. Herbicides and pesticides were designed to kill insects and broadleaf weeds, and they can be harmful to humans and pets if used incorrectly. However, the EPA maintains that lawn care products used according to the manufacturer’s directions are safe.
However, some studies have shown that some lawn care products can cause health problems. Round-up, for example, has lost multiple lawsuits, and one of its products was banned in France. According to the World Health Organization, the IARC classified glyphosate–many herbicide’s active ingredient–as “probably carcinogenic to humans.”
Regular lawn care should begin at the very beginning of the growing season. In Austin, the growing season starts in February or March, depending on temperatures and the weather.
Yes and no. Some experts cite multiple reasons why lawns are bad for the environment, while others tout their benefits. Here are the environmental pros and cons of home lawns:
Pros
• Lawns are carbon sinks, lowering carbon dioxide and cooling the air
• They prevent erosion and reduce flooding
• Improves water and soil quality
• Reduce noise and light reflection
Cons
• Gas-powered equipment: EPA says 5% of all air pollution comes from lawnmowers
• Synthetic fertilizers: Runoff pollutes local groundwater and other aquatic ecosystems, creating a spike in toxic algae. Soil microbes turn additional synthetic fertilizer into nitrous oxide gas, the third most abundant greenhouse gas.
• Fresh water use: In arid climates, lawns use a lot of fresh water, causing groundwater decline and depletion.
Having a backyard party-worthy lawn takes a lot of work and constant vigilance, but that’s time away from your family, friends, and hobbies. Instead of breaking your back, let Wikilawn set you up with a local lawn care professional. They’ll take care of your lawn problems and maintenance, so you can get back to making memories with your loved ones.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Harry Rose, Macleay Grass Man / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify Common Lawn Care Problems in Austin, TX","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1789c/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/107df/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/293e9/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/f2cbb/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1789c/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/c26c2/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1dd6e/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/67b76/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/8df11/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/98a65/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/1dd6e/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/65db01f98f927181acdb0e85ab9b8253/3cc96/Pennisetum-clandestinum-yellowing-fungul-disease.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify Common Lawn Care Problems in Austin, TX","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Maintaining a healthy lawn is tricky, and lawn problems make it harder. Discover common lawn care problems in Austin and how to fix them."}}},{"node":{"id":"36ce7c7b-d94e-58a3-a1f6-1eab325ec71f","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro","path":"/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"27e940f6-30a2-50ad-939d-b73973245b23","name":"Murfreesboro","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Pumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care […]
\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care begins in the fall, and September is a crucial month for fertilizer. Follow our fall lawn care checklist to maintain your lawn and prepare it for the winter playoff season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nResidents love Tennessee’s mild autumns. The southern state is in the transition zone, and both warm and cool-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Proper fall lawn care from September through November sets the foundation for your landscape during the winter months and spring green-up. Proper maintenance during these cool transition months helps your lawn grow deeper, stronger roots.
\n\n\n\nFall lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s mild fall gives way to a short, cold, and wet winter, causing some cool-season grass cultivars and most warm-season grass cultivars to go dormant, developing thatch. Thatch is the tight, intermingled layer of dead grass, living grass blades, and roots that accumulate above soil level but below eye line visibility. Thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Watch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately to avoid suffocating your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to identify your grass variety. Tennessee cool-season grass cultivars like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass actively grow in the fall and early spring. Warm-season varieties such as bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass hit their green-up phase in late spring and summer. Dethatch your cool-season lawn in early fall and save your warm-season cultivar dethatching session for spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. Aeration is a common method to introduce this element back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of common aeration: core aeration and spike aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass and mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators extract cores of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover cores of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, reducing compaction, increasing air exchange, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators poke small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nEarly fall is one of the best times to test your soil to ensure it has all the nutrients it needs to thrive. Middle Tennessee is home to many soil types and some are nutrient deficient. It is important to understand exactly what nutrients your grass is lacking. Murfreesboro homeowners should send in a soil sample for testing in September.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a one-cup core sample to receive your results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications and lime for soil pH imbalances.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/green-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nLate summer and early fall are the best times to seed your cool-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while spring is the best time to seed warm-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are cool-season cultivars that respond well to fall overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your cool-season Tennessee lawn in late August or early September. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your turfgrass cultivar, a fall fertilizer application promotes deep roots and sets your grass up for success during its fall green-up or winter dormancy period. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape, so it is important to start with a soil test. The best time to apply fertilizer depends on your turfgrass cultivar, while the best type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize cool-season grass cultivars like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass as they hit their active growing season. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn on Sept. 1, Oct. 15, and Nov. 15 to improve root depth and turf density. Be sure to select a fertilizer that satisfies your soil test results with the proper N-P-K ratio.
\n\n\n\nA fall fertilizer application helps warm-season turfgrasses like centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass resist winter weeds and improves turf color and spring recovery rates. Fertilize your warm-season lawn with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn around Sept. 1. Pay attention to the potassium and phosphorus needs on your soil test results and select a low-nitrogen, high-potassium or phosphorus blend, if needed.
\n\n\n\nLime is a fall soil amendment like fertilizer composed of limestone rock ground into powder. It contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The addition of lime to your turfgrass increases nutrients and soil alkalinity, spreading beneficial bacteria. The ideal pH for your soil depends on the type of turfgrass in your landscape. Apply lime in September, October, or November if your soil test recommends it.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Fine Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 6.0 – 7.0 |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Tall Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nThe `Boro’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the fall. The city’s autumns are warm with a 49% chance of cloud cover and give way to short, wet, and cold winters. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, it is tempting to mow your lawn short and make less work for yourself, but most grass types benefit from longer grass blades in the fall. Cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury, weeds, and cold stress. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots, setting your lawn up for winter success and a better spring green-up.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass benefit from higher mowing heights in the fall to increase insulation and encourage deeper roots before winter.
\n\n\n\nRaise the height of your cut by a half inch in mid-September. Continue mowing through fall until the first frost. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in the fall, and never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow every seven to 14 days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn. Always aim to cut less, more often.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their active growth phase in the early fall after summer dormancy
\n\n\n\nMow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during fall. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
No matter what variety of turfgrass your lawn has, Murfreesboro lawns seldom need daily irrigating in the fall unless it is brand new. Water as needed early in the morning throughout fall. Winters in the `Boro are usually wet, providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all Tennessee turfgrass varieties twice per week if it hasn’t rained, aiming for a half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYour best defense against lawn disease is routine maintenance, including watering, fertilization, and proper mowing heights. Tennessee’s mild fall temperatures and subtropical climate create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi, including large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, rust, nematodes, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that appears as brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. This disease affects bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue. It does not respond well to fungicides. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is caused by a Tennessee soil-dwelling fungus that thrives in the warm, moist weather of spring and fall. It affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nFairy rings, caused by mushroom or puffball-producing fungi, affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. Be on the lookout for an arc or ring of dead grass surrounded by healthy grass. Many infections also produce mushrooms or puffballs around the ring.
\n\n\n\nLike large patch, fairy rings do not respond well to fungicides. Till or remove the soil around the affected area and reseed for severe infestations. For mild infestations, remove thatch, aerate, and perform routine maintenance, ensuring proper irrigation.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during cool, moist fall weather, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. These unsegmented roundworms need moisture to survive, and populations peak in the fall. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Spores germinate through moisture and dew, and active infections pop up throughout spring into fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf.
\n\n\n\nTreat rust using a fungicide, and prevent this Tennessee turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions to minimize leaf moisture.
\n\n\n\nStripe smut is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It is a serious fall disease causing stunted root growth, stiff and erect leaf blades, and a yellow and brown appearance.
\n\n\n\nOnce an outbreak occurs, smut fungus grows rapidly in fall temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Treat the turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance, including infrequent but deep waterings and proper fertilization. Fungicide applications can help reduce active infections.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWeeds love Murfreesboro’s subtropical climate. These pests signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health, including low-nitrogen levels, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds siphon vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and spread pests and diseases. Two common methods of weed control include post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nAll cool-season Tennessee turfgrasses, including tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass benefit from a fall application of pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination. Additionally, both Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass benefit from a September pre-emergent herbicide application to control annual bluegrass, a common Tennessee weed.
\n\n\n\nWhile these herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds, they will help control the emergence of new winter annual and perennial broadleaf and grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter grassy weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth of winter broadleaf weeds that become a nuisance during Murfreesboro falls. Always apply the herbicide directly to the active weed. Wait 30 days between applications, and never apply more than two applications per year.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter broadleaf weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nLocations with four seasons like Murfreesboro attract many homeowners with promises of warm summers, changing fall foliage, and a chance for a white Christmas. Watching leaves change from green to autumn gold, bronze, and red is something to look forward to as you sip your pumpkin spice latte and gear up for Friday night football. Unfortunately, the colorful leaves drop to the ground, creating a fluffy and crunchy layer over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nLeaves block out the sun, trap moisture, reduce airflow, and lead to dead spots of turfgrass. They increase pest problems and spread disease, so be sure to remove them as soon as possible. Wait until the leaves are dry to rake and prepare to rake your lawn before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the leaves and layer of thatch left behind. It does not matter if you rake as your leaves fall or wait until all the leaves in your yard have fallen.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners can stop mowing their warm-season Murfreesboro lawns in mid-October. These cultivars include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Homeowners with cool-season varieties, including Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue, can typically stop mowing after the first frost in early December.
Warm-season turf gasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass will go dormant during the end of fall and the beginning of winter. These cultivars dry out and turn brown.
The best way to determine if your grass is dormant is by pulling on it. If the grass comes out of the ground easily, it is likely dead. However, if there is resistance from deep roots when you pull on your grass, it is dormant.
No. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients. It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Tennessee turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass.
Mild fall weather creates a prime environment for routine yard work that will set your lawn up to take on the wet, cold Tennessee winter and prepare it for a better green-up in the spring. Be sure to check out our spring lawn care tips to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and would rather watch football or hit the trails, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your lawn establish deep roots so it can survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tarpely Farm-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.606425702811245,"src":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/107df/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/293e9/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/f2cbb/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/c26c2/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/67b76/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/8df11/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/98a65/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/3cc96/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 11 valuable tips for maintaining a fall lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the cold Tennessee winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"9667e3d2-dcaa-59eb-8fe1-655d7f1993e5","slug":"when-to-fertilize-lawn","path":"/lawn-care/when-to-fertilize-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Judith Gallova","id":"8e48e42f-071a-5523-a889-6dab4c49dd54","path":"/author/judith-gallova/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/537ca09b018493e40c3fb0df17ebacbe?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 5th, 2023","excerpt":"Like us, turfgrass needs proper nutrition to grow and thrive. But grasses come in different shapes and sizes, and have different needs. So one of the keys to getting the most out of your lawn here in Indiana is to understand how and when to fertilize it. Fertilizing is not a one-size-fits-all proposition. Just as […]
\n","content":"\nLike us, turfgrass needs proper nutrition to grow and thrive. But grasses come in different shapes and sizes, and have different needs. So one of the keys to getting the most out of your lawn here in Indiana is to understand how and when to fertilize it.
\n\n\n\nFertilizing is not a one-size-fits-all proposition. Just as there are different kinds of grasses, there are different kinds of fertilizer that affect grasses in unique ways. This guide will walk you through the best way to feed your lawn so you get the most out of it now, and year-round.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nIn the wild, grasses draw nutrition from decomposing organic material. It’s not as simple when the grass is in someone’s yard, though. Grass planted in rich soil thrives with just some grass clippings as food. But when soil lacks nutrition, fertilizers are sent to the rescue.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers mainly supply lawns with three nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These nutrients are abbreviated as N-P-K. Here’s what each of them does:
\n\n\n\n| Nutrient | Key Benefits |
| Nitrogen | • Helps rapid growth and protein synthesis • Increases leaf development for dense lawns |
| Phosphorus | • Helps early root growth • Promotes plant maturity and seed development |
| Potassium | • Increases drought and disease resistance |
Before you embark on your fertilizing journey, make sure that you:
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fertilization.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nHow much fertilizer you use (or if you fertilize at all) depends on a number of factors:
\n\n\n\n| Needs More Fertilizer | Needs Less Fertilizer |
| Kentucky bluegrass | Zoysiagrass |
| Perennial ryegrass | Turf-type tall fescue |
| Fine fescue |
What’s a soil test? A soil test analyzes the nutrient content, pH level, and other properties of the soil to determine how well your grass can grow. It identifies the nutrients your soil lacks and recommends the right fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYou can do either a DIY soil test or send a soil sample to a laboratory for a detailed report. Purdue University recommends testing your soil every 3 to 5 years, but more frequent soil tests can be beneficial too.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to fertilize, Purdue University recommends fertilizing in these months for optimal performance:
\n\n\n\n| April | If you apply a pre-emergent herbicide, use a product with little to no nitrogen; if it does contain any nitrogen, it should be slow-release, ideally organic |
| May | If you didn’t fertilize in April, fertilize now with a product containing mostly slow-release nitrogen |
| June | Consider fertilizing with nitrogen if there’s been a severe disease outbreak |
| July | Fertilize with a product containing slow-release nitrogen if there have been above-average rainfalls or if you’ve been irrigating |
| August | Consider fertilizing with nitrogen if there’s been a severe disease outbreak |
| September | Fertilize with nitrogen |
| October | Consider fertilizing with nitrogen if there’s been a severe disease outbreak |
| November | Purdue University recommends using quick-release fertilizer in November, but be aware that it may be harmful to the environment and wildlife; slow-release fertilizer is better |
You may not need to fertilize this much; these tips are for the most high-maintenance lawns.
\n\n\n\nFor precise dosages and more information, you can check out this lawn care calendar from Purdue University.
\n\n\n\nWhen we talk about fertilizer, we’re often referring to chemical products. However, organic fertilizers are also effective and have the added benefit of being environmentally friendly. They release nutrients slowly over time, promoting healthy soil and plant growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for fertilizing your lawn organically, but they can be summed up into these two categories:
\n\n\n\nBecause organic fertilizers are natural, many people think that they’re harmless. The truth is, organic fertilizers still contain ingredients that may harm people and animals. Plus, animals are often attracted to some organic fertilizers because of their smell. Moreover, many store-bought fertilizers are mixed with hazardous ingredients to make them more efficient.
\n\n\n\nSo what’s the bottom line? Regardless of which fertilizer you use, be cautious and follow the instructions carefully.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: CanvaPro
\n\n\n\nApart from organic and inorganic fertilizers, fertilizers are further categorized so that homeowners can get a product that’s right for their needs.
\n\n\n\nYou can choose from dry or liquid fertilizers:
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to note the difference between slow- and quick-release fertilizers:
\n\n\n\nIn summary, most lawns can benefit from using slow-release fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThere are some conditions that aren’t ideal for fertilizing. Those include:
\n\n\n\nFeeding your lawn the right nutrients is vital to its overall health and appearance. But it’s necessary that you also perform other maintenance jobs throughout the year, such as mowing, watering, overseeding, and so forth.
\n\n\n\nSounds like a lot of work? Wikilawn connects you to the best best Indiana lawn care pros so let them take yard care off your to-do list.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Canva Pro
\n","title":"How (And When) to Fertilize Your Lawn in Indiana","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/1789c/Fertilizer-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/107df/Fertilizer-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/293e9/Fertilizer-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/f2cbb/Fertilizer-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/1789c/Fertilizer-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/c26c2/Fertilizer-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/1dd6e/Fertilizer-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/67b76/Fertilizer-1.webp 320w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/8df11/Fertilizer-1.webp 500w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/98a65/Fertilizer-1.webp 800w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/1dd6e/Fertilizer-1.webp 960w,\n/static/56d31d86a8f5a702c7ed840a266e1d20/3cc96/Fertilizer-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How (And When) to Fertilize Your Lawn in Indiana | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Make sure your lawn gets fed with all the nutrients it craves. Here’s when and how to fertilize your lawn in Indiana."}}},{"node":{"id":"6ee7be36-9433-558c-bcf3-e6dfa3da2dfd","slug":"best-grass-types-las-vegas","path":"/lawn-care/nv/las-vegas/best-grass-types-las-vegas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"e27810b8-f282-526d-9421-b74733ea3ddb","name":"Las Vegas","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nv/las-vegas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"013fbac6-10a0-54dd-8196-03ea2813f6d0","name":"Nevada","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nv/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Las Vegas, the shimmering jewel of the Nevada desert, is famous for its bright lights, world-renowned casinos, and luxurious hotels. But beyond the glitz and glamour lies a challenging environment for growing a lush, green lawn. With temperatures soaring to triple digits during the scorching summer months and water in short supply, choosing the right […]
\n","content":"\nLas Vegas, the shimmering jewel of the Nevada desert, is famous for its bright lights, world-renowned casinos, and luxurious hotels. But beyond the glitz and glamour lies a challenging environment for growing a lush, green lawn. With temperatures soaring to triple digits during the scorching summer months and water in short supply, choosing the right grass type is crucial for any homeowner in Sin City.
\n\n\n\nThankfully, these 6 best grass types for Las Vegas are well-suited to the area’s hot and arid climate. From the drought-resistant buffalograss to the heat-tolerant Zoysiagrass, each variety has unique characteristics that can withstand the harsh desert sun.
\n\n\n\nLas Vegas has a unique climate that can be challenging for plants, especially grasses. When selecting the best grass type for your lawn in the Mojave Desert region, it’s essential to understand their growth patterns and requirements. Categorizing grasses into two general groups based on their temperature preferences simplifies the selection process and helps you make an informed decision.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses: Grass types like bermudagrass, buffalograss, and Zoysiagrass are the best fit for Las Vegas lawns. These warm-season grasses grow actively during the hot summer months when temperatures range between 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate drought and high temperatures, making them perfect for the Las Vegas environment. Late spring or early summer is the perfect time to plant these grasses.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses: These grasses, which include fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and tall fescue, prefer colder temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. These grass types are best suited for spring and fall when the temperatures are milder. However, they may struggle during the hot summer months, which are prevalent in Las Vegas.
\n\n\n\nPicking the perfect grass variety that suits your lawn’s specific characteristics and the prevailing climatic conditions is essential in maintaining a flourishing and visually appealing lawn all year long.
\n\n\n\nWith a hot and dry climate, Vegas offers a unique challenge for homeowners who want a lush and beautiful lawn. Fortunately, the city is in a transition zone, allowing both warm-season and cool-season grasses to be planted.
\n\n\n\nBut due to the scarcity of water coming from the Colorado River, you need the best grass type that can withstand the hot summers of Southern Nevada while also being water-efficient.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis versatile grass species is incredibly hardy and can easily withstand the harsh, arid climate of Las Vegas. With its stunning appearance and resistance to high foot traffic, bermudagrass can be used in a variety of settings, from residential lawns to athletic fields and golf courses.
\n\n\n\nIn terms of appearance, bermudagrass boasts a rich green color and a fine texture that is pleasant to the touch. Its density and ability to spread quickly make it ideal for those who want a lush, full lawn without having to wait years for it to fill in. With proper care, this drought-tolerant grass can thrive and enhance your Vegas lawn for many years.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – but some bermudagrass cultivars require more direct sun exposure than others
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – extended periods of drought may cause it to turn brown and become dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – you’ll have to mow and fertilize more often
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches – during periods of extreme drought or heat, you may have to increase the mowing height to retain moisture
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – may be susceptible to leaf spot, spring dead spot, brown patch, and dollar spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – can be prone to hunting billbugs, mole crickets, white grubs, and armyworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers loam soil but can grow in most types of soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: To achieve the best results when reseeding this grass type, it’s essential to sow during the optimal temperature range of 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, typically occurring in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nKnown for its hardiness and low-maintenance requirements, buffalograss has a high drought tolerance and an ability to withstand the harsh desert climate. In fact, it can tolerate temperatures up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit, making it perfect for the scorching Las Vegas summers.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass has a fine texture and a greenish-blue color that adds a natural look to any landscape. Its low growth pattern makes it perfect for high-traffic areas such as playgrounds, golf courses, and sports fields. Since it requires little water once established, buffalograss is perfect for Southern Nevada, where water conservation is paramount.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – it doesn’t need more than 25 inches of water a year
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – may be prone to dollar spot, brown patch, spring dead spot, and leaf spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – can be susceptible to mole crickets, armyworms, hunting billbugs, and white grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers well-drained, fertile, loamy, and clay soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass variety is not suitable for sandy and saline soils. While it’s relatively low-maintenance, it can be hard to cultivate buffalograss from seed. But it can survive with little to no fertilizer, herbicides, or pesticides.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWith its fine texture, soft feel, and green color, fine fescue is often used in residential lawns, golf courses, and parks. This grass type is highly tolerant of drought and cold temperatures, which makes it a perfect choice for the unpredictable climate of Las Vegas.
\n\n\n\nWhile it’s commonly used in shaded areas, fine fescue also can thrive in sunny spots with proper care. Since it requires minimal maintenance, it’s perfect for homeowners who don’t have the time or resources to dedicate to a high-maintenance lawn. Plus, its deep root system allows it to absorb nutrients and water more efficiently.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescues spread through short rhizomes, while other fescues have bunch-type growth
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – can be prone to dollar spot, red thread, summer patch, leaf spot, and downy mildew
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance – mostly susceptible to billbugs, chinch bugs, grubs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers well-drained, sandy soil but can tolerate infertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: While it has relatively good disease resistance, note that over-fertilization can lead to thatch buildup and increase the risk of disease.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nWhile it may not be the first type of grass that comes to your mind when thinking of your Vegas lawn, this cool-season grass is actually a great option as it can thrive in the desert climate. Known for its rich, deep green color and fine texture, Kentucky bluegrass is perfect for outdoor entertaining and relaxation.
\n\n\n\nNote, though, that this grass variety may need more water and maintenance than the other grass types suitable for Nevada. But under ideal conditions, it can give you a dense and beautiful lawn that will not die during droughts and extreme dry spells.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches – mow taller during summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high – mostly prone to fairy rings, snow molds, dollar spot, summer patch, leaf spot, and necrotic ring spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate to high – can be susceptible to grubs, greenbugs, bluegrass billbugs, sod webworms, armyworms, and chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: You can mix it with other grass types, like tall fescue, to create a lush lawn. However, you’ll need to water it regularly due to its relatively shallow root system. But newer cultivars are generally hardier and more disease-resistant.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3863142192_bea9f90f09_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nAnother popular cool-season grass known for its adaptability and resilience, tall fescue can thrive in Southern Nevada’s climate. But while this grass type can withstand foot traffic, it can’t easily recover from wear. So, if you have children and pets who love running around the yard, this is not the grass type for you.
\n\n\n\nWith its deep green color and fine texture, tall fescue can add a touch of elegance to any lawn. It’s tolerant of a wide range of environmental conditions, including drought, heat, and cold. It thrives in moderate temperatures and can tolerate shade. Plus, it can access nutrients and water deep in the soil with its deep root system, allowing it to survive periods of low rainfall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch forming)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – doesn’t recover easily from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Refer to the local state guidelines for your particular cultivar, as several types of tall fescue grass tend to flourish when mowed at a taller height.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate – can be prone to leaf spot, brown patch, and seedling disease
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate – mostly susceptible to armyworms, cutworms, grubs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers clay soil but grows in most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Consider sowing new grass seeds every few years to address patchy and thinning areas. Applying fertilizer just once during the fall months, preferably in September or November, can help ensure optimal growth and vibrancy of your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Zoysiagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 US
\n\n\n\nKnown for its fine texture, tight growth pattern, and beautiful emerald-green color, Zoysiagrass can increase the curb appeal of any property. It’s well-suited to the arid and hot climate of Las Vegas due to its heat and drought tolerance, as well as its ability to thrive in both sun and partial shade.
\n\n\n\nCommonly used in residential lawns, parks, and golf courses, this slow-growing grass can tolerate heavy foot traffic and recover quickly from damage. It requires less water than other grass types, making it one of the best options for conserving water.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – it requires more direct sun exposure
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – but you’ll have to give it supplemental watering during extended periods of drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – can be susceptible to spring dead spot, fairy wings, rust, curvularia, dollar spot, root decline, brown patch, leaf spot, and powdery mildew
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance – common pests include chinch bugs, sod webworms, hunting billbugs, armyworms, mole crickets, grubs, and nematodes
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers well-drained, loamy soil but can still grow in most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Despite its deep root system and ability to tolerate compacted soil, Zoysiagrass may not thrive as much in these conditions as it would in well-aerated soil.
\n\n\n\nNevada passed a law (Assembly Bill 356) restricting the use of non-functional turfgrass in certain areas of the state. The law aims to conserve water, promote sustainability, and reduce water waste in urban areas.
\n\n\n\nUnder the law, non-functional turf is defined as any turf used for aesthetic or ornamental purposes rather than functional ones, such as sports fields or parks. The law prohibits the installation of non-functional turf in new developments or re-landscaping projects in certain areas of Nevada. It also requires existing non-functional turf to be removed and replaced with water-efficient landscaping by Jan. 1, 2027.
\n\n\n\nThe areas where the law is in effect are:
\n\n\n\nThe law exempts certain types of properties from the restriction, including single-family homes, golf courses, and cemeteries.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking to have a lush and healthy yard, a soil test is highly recommended. Since Nevada’s climate and soil conditions can make it challenging to grow certain plants and grasses, knowing what nutrients your soil lacks can help you decide which plants to grow and how to care for them.
Soil tests can determine your soil’s pH level, which is important because it affects the availability of nutrients to your plants. They also can tell you if your soil lacks essential nutrients, such as potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus.
Fortunately, soil testing is a straightforward and inexpensive process. You can purchase a home testing kit or send your soil sample to a testing laboratory for analysis. The report will contain specific recommendations on how to amend your soil to optimize plant growth.
Among the top choices for a low-maintenance yard in Las Vegas are buffalograss, fine fescue, and Zoysiagrass. These grass types are drought-tolerant and require less watering compared to other grasses. They also have the added benefit of being more heat-resistant, making them ideal for Southern Nevada summers.
Since Las Vegas has a harsh desert climate, watering your lawn properly is crucial for keeping it healthy and lush. You also should remember to use water efficiently to help conserve it. Here are some tips to ensure efficient watering of your lawn:
Having the right grass type for your Sin City lawn is crucial in ensuring its long-term health and beauty. With the increasing water scarcity concerns, you must select a drought-resistant variety that can survive on restricted watering schedules.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, these warm-season and cool-season grasses can thrive in the hot and arid climate of Southern Nevada. By considering factors such as water and maintenance requirements, you can have the best grass type ideal for your lawn’s unique qualities. For a low-maintenance yard, pair your turfgrass with the best desert landscaping plants and trees suitable for Las Vegas.
Reach out to a local lawn care pro today for help in selecting the right grass that can add value and curb appeal to your property.
Main Image Credit: Lawn, Las Vegas / Dan Perry / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Las Vegas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/1789c/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/107df/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/293e9/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/f2cbb/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/1789c/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/c26c2/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/1dd6e/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/67b76/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp 320w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/8df11/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp 500w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/98a65/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp 800w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/1dd6e/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp 960w,\n/static/81a7e77e1cda5ab29642964e3e6124e0/3cc96/264003428_9fc095ac50_o-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Las Vegas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking for the perfect grass for your yard? Discover the 6 best grass types for the subtropical hot desert climate of Las Vegas."}}},{"node":{"id":"03dd2102-8e63-5cee-a960-06a4e9d62bd3","slug":"protecting-your-sprinkler-heads","path":"/lawn-care/protecting-your-sprinkler-heads/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Ruma Akter","id":"b4adb332-066f-5309-a11a-ada9d71b73f7","path":"/author/opushaon10/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ebb2426fcf700731e458d89422adc475?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"November 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Your sprinkler heads are easily the most vulnerable part of your sprinkler system — prone to sprinkler head damage from lawnmowers, your trimmer, freezing cold air and anything else that hits this part of the sprinkler that sits above ground. Here is what you need to know about protecting your sprinkler heads. Sprinkler donuts sound like […]
\n","content":"\nYour sprinkler heads are easily the most vulnerable part of your sprinkler system — prone to sprinkler head damage from lawnmowers, your trimmer, freezing cold air and anything else that hits this part of the sprinkler that sits above ground. Here is what you need to know about protecting your sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nSprinkler donuts sound like something delicious, but they are actually a lot less fun than a donut with sprinkles. Sprinkler head donuts are a quick, inexpensive solution to damage from lawnmowers. You can choose between durable concrete donuts or plastic ones — either way, they are designed to prevent broken sprinkler heads. Keep in mind the concrete donuts may cost a little more, but they are tougher than the plastic ones, and they won’t float away in a heavy rain like the plastic donuts have been known to do.
\n\n\n\nYour local landscaper may have installers who can put them in for you, but really it’s a DIY home improvement project. Your garden center or home improvement store should have the donuts, and only common garden tools are needed.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of whether you do it yourself or hire someone, the donuts will save you the headache of replacing those lawn sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nThe pop-up sprinkler is actually a solution to the problems caused by permanent sprinkler heads. “Mowing around permanent sprinklers in the landscape was quite a chore. Grass had to be manually trimmed near the sprinklers and occasionally one of the sprinklers was the victim of an inattentive worker on a mower. The ‘pop-up’ sprinkler was developed to alleviate this problem,” says the Clemson Cooperative Extension Home And Garden Information Center website.
\n\n\n\nThe other big threat to your pop-up sprinkler — or any watering method, like drip irrigation or even a faucet — is freezing temperatures. If water is left in the spray head when a hard freeze comes along, you could be looking at several broken sprinkler heads. The cardinal lawn care rule when frigid temperatures come along is to drain the water out of anything vulnerable.
\n\n\n\nHere are some things to do to prepare for pipe-bursting cold temperatures:
\n\n\n\nA good sprinkler system is a significant and convenient part of lawn care, but it’s also a complicated system with a lot of parts vulnerable to damage. That damage is avoidable if you take the right measures. A few sprinkler head donuts and a good draining in the fall will help keep your sprinkler heads in good working order throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: “Broken,” Daniel R. Blume, CC by-SA 2.0
\n","title":"Protecting Your Sprinkler Heads","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3769363166953528,"src":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/f2cbb/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg","srcSet":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/107df/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 320w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/293e9/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 500w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/f2cbb/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/98a65/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/67b76/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 320w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/8df11/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 500w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/98a65/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Protecting Your Sprinkler Heads | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"3be857f9-2184-5df9-a047-d3e9978d2031","slug":"summer-lawn-care-guide-austin","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/summer-lawn-care-guide-austin/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nicki DeStasi is a writer, author, and teacher who grew up in western Massachusetts and currently resides in the Austin area. She enjoys flower and vegetable gardening, reading, cooking, listening to true-crime podcasts, and spending time with her husband, two children, dog, and cat.","name":"Nicki DeStasi","id":"ffbf62e2-d627-5a5f-a041-4eaa9ac66924","path":"/author/nicki-destasi/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9846092d7afb2db8d0a4daa2454074f0?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Austin temperatures climb as spring turns into summer and rainfall becomes scarce. Add inconsistent soil and constant city construction, and maintaining a healthy lawn isn’t easy. It takes hard work and vigilance. However, if you follow our guide to summer lawn care in Austin, you can rest easy knowing you’re giving your lawn a fighting […]
\n","content":"\nAustin temperatures climb as spring turns into summer and rainfall becomes scarce. Add inconsistent soil and constant city construction, and maintaining a healthy lawn isn’t easy. It takes hard work and vigilance. However, if you follow our guide to summer lawn care in Austin, you can rest easy knowing you’re giving your lawn a fighting chance.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith an average temperature of 96 degrees Fahrenheit and only three days of rain in July and August, it’s safe to say Austin’s summers are hot and dry. Both heat and low rain stress your lawn, making it vulnerable. Proper summer lawn maintenance–like watering, mowing, dealing with pest or disease problems, and more–is vital to a healthy, vibrant, backyard party-worthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe best lawn care maintenance plan starts with understanding your soil and choosing the best type for your lawn. From there, fertilize when needed, aerate, dethatch, and maintain your grass with good watering and mowing practices. Fall all this up by protecting your lawn from ugly, Austin lawn problems, like pests, diseases, and weeds.
\n\n\n\nWith the high temperatures and low rainfall, warm-season grass types thrive in Austin lawns. However, warm-season grasses go dormant in the fall and winter, so mixing in cool-season grass cultivars allows Austinites to have a gorgeous, green lawn year-round. Here are some of the best grass types for Austin lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass-3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in regions with hot summers and mild winters. Winter temperatures stress warm-season grasses, and when temperatures drop, these cultivars go dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nLight-green and fine-textured bermudagrass is a popular choice. This fast-growing grass is used in home lawns, sports fields, and parks.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass grows quickly, creating a thick, coarsely textured, dark green lawn. Its nickname is “carpet grass” thanks to its dense appearance.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is soft, fine-textured, and gray-green or blue-green. Although slow-growing, it won’t invade flower beds like many fast-growing grass types.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is light to medium emerald green with medium to fine leaf texture. It grows quickly and stays green longer than most warm-season grass types.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nLike bermudagrass, seashore paspalum is light to medium green with a fine leaf texture. It has a dense root system and grows quickly.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nWhile cool-season grasses grow in the North, preferring cold winters and mild summers, they also thrive in the mild Southern winters. Heat is the major hurdle for cool-season grasses, so they need more energy to stay green when temperatures rise. Eventually, they’ll go dormant in the summer.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lolium_perenne_L._Perennial_Ryegrass_-_cultivated_3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Arthur Chapman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a fine-textured, medium-green grass. Along with lawns and golf courses, it’s popular for construction areas. It is often used to prevent erosion because of its fast germination rate.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nA hybrid between Kentucky bluegrass and Texas native grass, Texas bluegrass remains green in the summer. Its dark green color lasts longer than most cool-season grasses. This turfgrass is fine-textured and densely growing.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/pxfuel.com-7-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nEveryone knows Austin likes to “keep it weird,” but you may not know that three ecoregions converge in the city. The Edwards Plateau, the Blackland Prairies, and the Post Oak Savannah Floodplains have different soil types.
\n\n\n\nThe Edwards Plateau covers most of West Austin, with 1st Street being the approximate dividing line. It has the following properties:
\n\n\n\nThe Blackland Prairie covers Northeast Austin near I-290 and Southeast Austin in the Onion Creek area. You can expect to find the following properties:
\n\n\n\nThe Post Oak Savannah Floodplain covers East Austin, downtown through Del Valle. Expect to find:
\n\n\n\nSoil type is only one factor affecting soil quality. Other factors include:
\n\n\n\nTo ensure your soil is in tip-top shape, get your soil tested every one to three years. Once you receive your results, you’ll better understand what your lawn needs, including fertilization.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns will need some fertilization, but too much is harmful. Here are a few fertilizing tips to help you feed your lawn and minimize damage:
\n\n\n\nThe average grass cultivar needs about 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, but each grass type has different needs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_33362501875_0d0e78d669_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nYour watering practices have a significant effect on your lawn’s health. While your grass and native plants are adapted to Austin’s USDA hardiness Zone, 8, they still face high temperatures, drought, and water restrictions.
\n\n\n\nHere are some helpful tips to get the most out of your watering practices:
\n\n\n\nTake a look at the recommended watering amounts for popular grass types in Austin:
\n\n\n\n| Warm-Season Grass Type | Weekly Watering Needs in Inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1.25 |
| Buffalograss | 1 |
| St. Augustinegrass | 1 |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 |
![\"orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nTo make a significant impact on the health of your lawn, mow like a pro. It is important to know what time to mow, how often to mow, and how high you should mow.
\n\n\n\nHere are some pro mowing tips to keep your lawn looking its best:
\n\n\n\nUnderstanding when to mow is also critical to keeping your lawn green.
\n\n\n\nMowing frequency changes with the seasons. Here’s an optimal mowing schedule for each season:
\n\n\n\n| Season | Mowing Frequency |
| Spring | Once per week |
| Summer | 1-2 times per week |
| Fall | Once every 7-10 days |
| Winter | Rarely, as needed |
The largest factor affecting your mowing frequency is your lawn’s turfgrass cultivar. Here are the recommended summer mowing heights and frequencies for popular Austin grass types.
\n\n\n\n![\"tool](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3409167404_35aeb9659b_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBecause Austin sits on the convergence of three different ecoregions, there are three distinctly different soil types. Two of the three soils are compacted, requiring regular aeration and turfgrass dethatching.
\n\n\n\nAeration involves poking small holes in the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients into the lawn. Doing this allows the roots to grow deeply, creating a stronger, more robust lawn.
\n\n\n\nAeration relieves soil compaction. Compacted soils prevent proper absorption of air, water, and nutrients within the soil. Excess organic debris, like leaves and thatch, starve the roots of essential nutrients.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a mixture of dead and living roots, and build-up occurs when turf produces waste faster than the environment can break it down. A little thatch is good as it helps insulate the soil and maintains moisture levels. However, thatch over ½ inch hinders water and nutrient absorption, starving your grass.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, many Austin lawns are prone to thatch build-up, because:
\n\n\n\nSome creeping grass types that are prone to thatch include:
\n\n\n\nIf you need to dethatch, you have a few options. Liquid dethatching increases enzymes and thatch-eating organisms. If thatch build-up is just forming, try a dethatching rake. But if you moderate build-up or more, use a power-driven dethatcher, like a vertical mower.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red_Ants_1214176165.jpg\")
Photo Credit: William Cho / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nBugs are the worst, and since Austin is in the South, we get our fair share of them. Some Austin bugs are nuisances, some carry diseases, and some will destroy your carefully crafted lawn and garden.
\n\n\n\nHere are some annoying, sometimes harmful pests you’ll encounter in your Austin backyard:
\n\n\n\nWhile these common pests are a nuisance and sometimes dangerous to your family and pets, they don’t affect your lawn. However, some lawn pests lay devastation, and you’ll need to intervene quickly.
\n\n\n\nWhile most ants cause damage to your lawn by boring through the dirt, fire ants are awful, creating mounds and messing up your soil and turf. If you step on a mound, you’re in trouble. This invasive species latches on with its barbed mandibles and stabs you repeatedly with its venomous stinger, leaving itchy pus-filled bites that take days to heal.
\n\n\n\nKeep an eye out for dirt mounds in your lawn. If you spot one, apply fire ant bait, following the manufacturer’s directions. Unfortunately, some colonies abandon mounds and create new ones a few yards away. Consider hiring a professional to eliminate the pesky invaders.
\n\n\n\nGrubs are small, fat, white, c-shaped, caterpillar-like insects you often find while gardening or digging. They’re actually beetle larvae, and they feed on your grass’ roots, causing brown spots and dead turf. If you’re unsure if your turfgrass problem is caused by grubs or a disease, tug on the grass blades. If they come out easily, you may have a grub infestation.
\n\n\n\nTo get rid of grubs, use a grub-specific pesticide. Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully, or you could harm your lawn. Additionally, apply nematodes or milky spores if you want a natural method. Dethatching and aeration help by giving the grubs less to eat.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs are tiny black insects with white wings. While they may be small, they cause colossal problems. They suck the sap from the base and stolons of grass blades and inject a toxic substance that prevents the plant from transporting water. Soon, patches of your lawn will turn yellow, then brown, before dying. The damage will spread until you handle the infestation.
\n\n\n\nBecause the damage often resembles drought stress or disease, you may not realize the problem immediately. Good lawn maintenance–dethatching, aeration, and not overwatering– help control chinch bugs. Applying preventative pesticides in the spring and targeted insecticides in the summer and fall will eliminate the pests.
\n\n\n\nArmyworms are not actually worms. They’re dark brown caterpillars with white, orange, or yellow stripes, and they can wreck your lawn in a few days by gobbling up grass blades. Armyworms are only two inches long but travel in large groups. They typically go unnoticed until the damage is severe.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent armyworms is applying preventative, commercial-grade pesticides and maintaining your lawn. Armyworms prefer a dense, over-thatched, moist lawn, so a well-maintained lawn eliminates their preferred habitat.
\n\n\n\nSome grasses are more susceptible to pests than others. Here’s what you can expect from common Austin grasses:
\n\n\n\nIrrigate and mow your lawn twenty-four hours before insecticide applications. Use a broad-spectrum, non-repellent insecticide containing carbaryl or pyrethroid to treat affected areas. Apply preventative treatments in May before the heat of summer sets in and then another in June.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nLawn diseases are not fun to deal with, and if you’re an Austin homeowner, you may know this from personal experience. They’ll turn a stunning lawn into a brown, patchy mess.
\n\n\n\nLawns catch a disease when a trio of factors occur:
\n\n\n\nLet’s look at each of these a little closer:
\n\n\n\nMost diseases need daytime temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees. They also need moisture from dew, irrigation, or rainfall to infect the blades. Lastly, stressed grass is easier to infect and a strong, healthy lawn is more resistant to attack.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, we can’t control the weather, but we can take steps to reduce stress and encourage growth. Here are some key tips to encourage a strong lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause most lawn diseases are fungal, use a fungicide to eliminate problems. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions. Too much fungicide will burn your grass, and too little won’t be effective.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather treat the fungus naturally, there are several solutions:
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_stellaria_media_common_chickweed_ჟუნჟრუკი.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nLike diseases, weeds love an unhealthy lawn. If you see weeds, some underlying problems include low-nitrogen, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds suck up vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass while simultaneously creating an ideal environment for pests and diseases. To control weeds, maintain a healthy lawn with routine maintenance.
\n\n\n\nThere are two ways to control weeds in your lawn: chemical treatments and hand pulling. Pulling weeds by hand is the safest removal method, but it isn’t always the best. Be sure to identify the type of weed you are dealing with before selecting your removal method.
\n\n\n\nFollow these summer weeding tips:
\n\n\n\nBefore you blink, weeds take over and ruin your gorgeous green grass. Here are five common Austin weeds:
\n\n\n\nCheck out our guide covering the 12 worst weeds in Austin to learn more.
\n\n\n\nSome grass types are more resistant to weeds than others. Check out the most common Austin grass types:
\n\n\n\nLawn maintenance can be overwhelming, but there are some steps you can take to create a low-maintenance Austin lawn that will save time and money.
• Xeriscape: low-maintenance landscaping emphasizing water conservation
• Rock Garden: little to no maintenance hardscaping
• Native plants: adapted to Austin’s climate, requiring little care
• Hardscapes: reduce green vegetation with functional hardscapes like a fire pit, patio, or pergola
• Automatic Irrigation: set-it-and-forget-it smart irrigation saves times and money and conserves water
• Mulch: reduces weeds
Organic mulch needs to be replaced yearly. Inorganic mulch, like gravel or rubber, needs to be replaced every 5-10 years.
In Austin, plant grass seed in March or April. Spring planting helps avoid late-season frost and gives the seed time to germinate before the summer heat sets in.
Summer is the perfect time for lounging on Lady Bird Lake, tubing the Comal River, backyard barbecuing, and pool partying. It’s also the time for rapid plant growth and lawn maintenance. Instead of sweating in the Austin heat, let Wikilawn match you with a local lawn care professional who will take care of your lawn so you can get back to enjoying your summer.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Texas, Austin / dszc / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Austin, TX","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.263157894736842,"src":"/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/1789c/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/107df/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/293e9/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/f2cbb/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/1789c/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/c26c2/solar-panels-working-10-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/1dd6e/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/67b76/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp 320w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/8df11/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp 500w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/98a65/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp 800w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/1dd6e/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp 960w,\n/static/2c41b1c20aca19ce39f486cf427d945c/3cc96/solar-panels-working-10-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Austin, TX | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"With this comprehensive guide to summer lawn care in Austin, you can overcome the heat and drought to have the green lawn of your dreams."}}},{"node":{"id":"ecb92e1a-57d0-5745-a174-28d6c5b59345","slug":"best-grass-types-washington-dc","path":"/lawn-care/best-grass-types-washington-dc/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Stuart Kushner is a writer and aspiring product designer based in New York City. When he isn’t doing either, Stuart enjoys heavy metal music, exercise, and trying new food and drinks.","name":"Stuart Kushner","id":"82e51515-0cd6-5b19-a026-570eb408a24e","path":"/author/stuart-kushner/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/159400686ba92aeb1f5d3503e0246fc1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"30ecf80b-c320-5679-942e-29dcd7b95c66","name":"Washington DC","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/washington-dc/"}],"date":"April 24th, 2023","excerpt":"Living in the nation’s capital, you know that having a beautiful lawn isn’t a right but a choice. As such, it behooves you to get to know the candidates for your lawn turf so you can pick the grass that gives your yard the best chance at prospering long into the future. Here are the […]
\n","content":"\nLiving in the nation’s capital, you know that having a beautiful lawn isn’t a right but a choice. As such, it behooves you to get to know the candidates for your lawn turf so you can pick the grass that gives your yard the best chance at prospering long into the future.
\n\n\n\nHere are the leading candidates:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe grass of choice for the White House, tall fescue is an excellent grass choice for your DC lawn. Its extensive root system gives it a high drought tolerance, it resists disease, it doesn’t require much water, and it can handle heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Most are bunching-type grasses; some have rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: At least 2 inches in summer
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Between 5.5 – 7.0
\n\n\n\n![\"Fine](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/nature-grass-plant-field-lawn-meadow-743848-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nIf you have a shady lawn, fine fescue is a fine choice. However, it can adapt to full and partial sun conditions and is very persistent in dry conditions and somewhat poor soils.
\n\n\n\nAre you planning on having your kids and pets run wild in the yard? Pick another grass, as fine fescue doesn’t handle foot traffic well.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Most are bunching-type grasses; some have rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: At least 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Between 5.5 – 7.5
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5552536384_1bc90958b3_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ferran Pestaña / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWith its dark green color and fine to medium leaf blades, Kentucky bluegrass provides some of the prettiest lawns in the DC area. It grows well in both sun and shade and comes in numerous varieties.
\n\n\n\nHowever, growing such a pretty lawn requires a lot of maintenance. For example, Kentucky bluegrass requires a lot of water, as it’ll go dormant otherwise. If you want a low-maintenance lawn, this isn’t it.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: 3-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year.
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Between 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_1perennial_rygrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Levin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nA medium-textured bunching grass with deep green blades, perennial ryegrass is the most interesting grass here. Because of disease susceptibility, the University of Maryland recommends avoiding a pure perennial ryegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is usually used in seed mixtures because it germinates quickly, and even then, it never takes up more than 5 to 15 percent of the mixture, as it doesn’t last long due to its vulnerability to diseases.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunching-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1 – 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Between 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is the best grass for a shady lawn, but tall fescue and perennial ryegrass tolerate moderate shade. Kentucky bluegrass needs full sun, so avoid it.
Fine fescue is the best grass for a shady lawn, but tall fescue and perennial ryegrass tolerate moderate shade. Kentucky bluegrass needs full sun, so avoid it.
Kentucky bluegrass is a high-maintenance grass, so avoid it. Tall fescues, fine fescues, and perennial ryegrass are low-maintenance grasses, making them good choices for lawns that don’t need much TLC.
Perennial ryegrass has a low drought tolerance, so it isn’t recommended for drought-heavy areas. Tall fescues, fine fescues, and Kentucky bluegrass have moderate to high drought tolerance, so they’ll manage just fine in such areas.
Now that you know what grasses to pick, where do you go from here?
\n\n\n\nStart by adding some native plants to your yard. They’ll help the ecosystem and look good in your yard while not needing much maintenance.
\n\n\n\nYou can eliminate doing any maintenance altogether by contacting one of Wikilawn’s lawn care pros. They’ll do the dirty work for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: APK /Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Grass Types That Thrive in Washington DC","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/1789c/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg","srcSet":"/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/107df/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg 320w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/293e9/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg 500w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/f2cbb/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg 800w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/1789c/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg 960w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/c26c2/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/1dd6e/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/67b76/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp 320w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/8df11/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp 500w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/98a65/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp 800w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/1dd6e/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp 960w,\n/static/9ceeb5ccb1c21b4b9c31a956836c9b5b/3cc96/Dumbarton_House_-_Washington_D.C.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Grass Types That Thrive in Washington DC | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Make your lawn worthy of being in the nation’s capital with these grasses. Learn how they handle this challenging transition zone."}}},{"node":{"id":"c8cb1160-0b8f-588d-b96a-a6f0b70731c6","slug":"worst-lawn-weeds-atlanta","path":"/lawn-care/ga/atlanta/worst-lawn-weeds-atlanta/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f552cb4e-e448-57f4-a5a4-d001c98833f6","name":"Atlanta","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ga/atlanta/"},{"id":"e4b1764d-a5cd-56e1-942a-7fc609f1b8e9","name":"Georgia","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ga/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 18th, 2019","excerpt":"In the bustling city of Atlanta, homeowners and gardeners alike are constantly battling against a common enemy: weeds. From the stubborn dandelion to the invasive yellow nutsedge, these pesky plants can quickly overtake green lawns and colorful gardens, causing frustration and headaches for those who take pride in their outdoor spaces. But which weeds are […]
\n","content":"\nIn the bustling city of Atlanta, homeowners and gardeners alike are constantly battling against a common enemy: weeds. From the stubborn dandelion to the invasive yellow nutsedge, these pesky plants can quickly overtake green lawns and colorful gardens, causing frustration and headaches for those who take pride in their outdoor spaces.
\n\n\n\nBut which weeds are the worst offenders in Atlanta? And, more importantly, how can they be eradicated for good? Take a closer look at the eight worst lawn weeds in Atlanta and discover expert tips on how you can get rid of them once and for all.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\nWeeds are the bane of any lawn enthusiast because they look unsightly and cause a whole host of problems. In Atlanta, where the weather can be hot and humid, weeds can quickly take over if left unchecked. Weeds are bad for your Atlanta lawn because they:
\n\n\n\nWhile it can be daunting to get rid of weeds in your lawn, there are two primary methods of doing so – by hand or with herbicides. Both have pros and cons, and which method you choose will depend on your preferences and the severity of the weed problem in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nGetting rid of weeds by hand is a more natural method and doesn’t involve the use of chemicals. Remove unwanted weeds on a weekly or bi-weekly basis and follow these tips:
\n\n\n\nHerbicides designed to kill weeds are often more effective than hand weeding and can save you time and effort:
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Annual-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nOne of the worst and most common weeds that plague homeowners and gardeners in Atlanta, annual bluegrass is notoriously difficult to control and can quickly take over lawns and gardens if left unchecked.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying annual bluegrass can be tricky, as it can often be mistaken for desirable grass species. However, there are a few key characteristics to look out for. It has a more upright or erect growth habit than most grasses, and its leaves are more pointed and finely textured.
\n\n\n\nThis low-growing weed can reach up to 6 inches tall and has bright green leaves that are narrow and tapered, with a boat-shaped tip. The seed heads of annual bluegrass are also distinctive, with a cluster of tiny green or purplish flowers that resemble a crow’s foot.
\n\n\n\nAnnual bluegrass germinates from fall to winter and grows in cooler months. It can grow in a variety of grasses, including fescue, bermudagrass, and Zoysia, and is commonly found in golf courses and lawns throughout the Atlanta area.
\n\n\n\nIt’s easier to pull by hand due to its shallow root system, but its prolific seed production can make it difficult to eradicate completely. Cultural practices – like maintaining healthy soil and mowing at a higher height – can help prevent annual bluegrass from establishing.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual cool-season grass weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers moist and fertile soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: No safety hazards
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Use pre-emergent herbicide in the fall to prevent germination and post-emergent herbicides to kill existing weeds. Hand-pulling the weed and overseeding with desirable grass species also can be effective methods of control.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Bull-Thistle.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Morefield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKnown for having prickly spines covering its stem, leaves, and purple-pink flower head, bull thistle is one of the most noxious weeds in Atlanta that can injure both humans and animals. It can grow and spread quickly, crowding out desirable plants. This tall broadleaf weed typically grows in grassy areas and can grow up to 7 feet tall.
\n\n\n\nThis biennial plant grows in the second year after germination. It can spread through wind-blown seeds or by root fragments, making it a difficult weed to control once it becomes established. It’s also a prolific seed producer, with each invasive plant producing up to 10,000 seeds that remain viable in the soil for years.
\n\n\n\nBull thistle has a long taproot, so it can be difficult to control and completely eradicate once established. You can prevent this invasive weed from spreading by performing proper lawn maintenance and regular weeding.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Biennial broadleaf weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist to dry, adaptable to many soil types
\n\n\n\nDanger: Can be harmful to humans and animals due to sharp spines, some species are toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling is an option for small infestations, but post-emergent herbicides may be necessary for larger areas. Due to its sharp spines, remember to wear protective gloves and clothing when handling bull thistle.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nCommon chickweed is a pervasive weed in Atlanta and one of the worst offenders for gardeners and lawn enthusiasts. This common winter annual weed grows during the cooler months, making it difficult to control in the fall and early spring.
\n\n\n\nTo identify common chickweed, look for its characteristic small white flowers with deeply lobed petals and pointed, oval leaves that are arranged oppositely along its stem. It can grow up to 8 inches tall and forms a dense mat on the ground, often outcompeting grass and other desirable plants in lawns and gardens.
\n\n\n\nThis lawn weed grows in a variety of soil types and is often found in disturbed areas such as lawns, gardens, and fields. It spreads quickly by seed – a single plant can produce up to 15,000 seeds per year.
\n\n\n\nPrevention is key to controlling this weed. Maintaining a healthy lawn or garden with good soil health, regular watering, and proper fertilization can help prevent its growth.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual cool-season broadleaf weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist to mesic conditions
\n\n\n\nDanger: The saponins in its leaves are toxic but are usually broken down with cooking. Plus, they would just pass through the body without causing harm.
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling or hoeing is effective if done early in the season before the plants have produced seeds. Applying pre-emergent herbicides specifically formulated for broadleaf weed control also can be effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAn annual warm-season grass weed that grows aggressively during the warm months in Atlanta, crabgrass can quickly take over a lawn. It typically starts to sprout in late spring and continues to grow throughout the summer. The plant will start to die off in the fall when temperatures cool.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying crabgrass is relatively easy – just look for the star-shaped pattern of the leaves and the clumping growth habit. Its long, flat leaves are light green in color and spread out from the stem in a star pattern. It can grow up to 2 feet tall and has small, greenish-purple flowers that bloom in the summer.
\n\n\n\nOften found in lawns with poor soil health or mowed too short, crabgrass typically grows in thin or bare areas where there’s disturbed soil, such as along the edges of driveways or sidewalks. Preventing crabgrass involves maintaining a healthy lawn and soil. This includes regular fertilization, proper watering, and maintaining a healthy grass height.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual warm-season grass weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Thin spots, disturbed and dry soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic to humans and animals, but its natural pesticide can kill other plants near it
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: One option is to use a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring before the weed has a chance to germinate. Another option is to remove the weed manually by hand or with a hoe (remove the entire plant, including the root system, to prevent regrowth.)
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Dandelion.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDandelions are a common sight in Atlanta, and they are one of the worst lawn weeds due to their prolific and persistent nature. These perennial weeds are known for their yellow flowers and deeply serrated leaves, which can grow up to 12 inches long. Dandelions can quickly spread throughout lawns, flower beds, gardens, and fields, making them difficult to control and eliminate.
\n\n\n\nWith a long, thick taproot that can extend up to 10 inches into the soil, their leaves grow in a rosette formation close to the ground. The bright yellow flowers resemble miniature suns, with numerous petals radiating outward from a central yellow disc. Once the flowers have bloomed, they develop into spherical seed heads known as “blowballs,” which disperse seeds with the slightest breeze.
\n\n\n\nDandelions can grow in a variety of grasses, including fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass. They typically begin growing in early spring and continue to thrive throughout the summer and fall. Dandelions thrive in nutrient-rich soil and can quickly take over lawns and gardens that are not adequately maintained.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Nutrient-rich soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low, may cause skin irritation or contact dermatitis after exposure to its sap
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Use a post-emergent herbicide specifically formulated for broadleaf weed control. Regular mowing and proper irrigation can help keep lawns healthy and prevent weed growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Henbit.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Miltos Gikas / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nOne of the most common and invasive weeds in Atlanta, henbit is an annual broadleaf weed that can quickly spread throughout lawns and gardens and is often difficult to control.
\n\n\n\nHenbit typically grows up to 12 inches tall, with rounded, deeply lobed, and coarsely toothed leaves. The leaves are typically a dull green but can have a purplish tint. The plant also produces pink to purple flowers, which bloom from March to June.
\n\n\n\nOften found in lawns, gardens, and along roadsides, henbit grows during the cooler months – from fall to spring. Various factors cause its growth, including poor lawn maintenance, soil compaction, and over-watering. To prevent henbit, maintain a healthy lawn by regularly fertilizing, mowing, and minimizing soil compaction.
\n\n\n\nNote that henbit can attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies, so consider leaving some in less visible areas of your lawn or garden.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual cool-season broadleaf weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-8
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers moist and fertile soils, but can grow in a variety of soil types
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic to humans and animals
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent weed control in the fall can help prevent its growth. Hand-pull when it’s still young and hasn’t produced flowers or seeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhite clover has aggressive growth habits and can compete with grass for nutrients and moisture. It’s a low-growing perennial plant that produces white or pinkish flowers and thrives in moist, nutrient-rich soil. While it’s often used as a groundcover in gardens, white clover can quickly overtake a lawn, forming dense mats that suffocate the grass and cause brown spots.
\n\n\n\nTo identify white clover, look for its characteristic three-lobed leaves with white or pink flowers that bloom from late spring to early fall. It spreads through horizontal stolons that creep along the ground and root at intervals.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover can be beneficial in gardens, as it attracts pollinators and fixes nitrogen in the soil. However, it is considered a weed in lawns and should be controlled.
\n\n\n\nMost commonly found in poorly maintained lawns or inadequate nitrogen fertilization, it grows in most grasses and can thrive in a variety of soil types. To prevent white clover from taking over a lawn, maintain a healthy turfgrass by regular mowing, watering, and fertilization. Ensuring adequate nitrogen levels in the soil also can help discourage clover growth.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Well-aerated, nutrient-rich soil like loam or clay
\n\n\n\nDanger: When its leaf tissues get damaged, white clover emits a noxious substance – cyanide.
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: For small infestations, clover can be removed by hand, ensuring that the entire root system is extracted. Broadleaf herbicides can effectively kill clover without harming the grass. Apply them according to the instructions on the label. If you don’t want to use chemical herbicides, you can apply corn gluten meal or vinegar solutions.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Yellow-Nutsedge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso known as yellow nutgrass, yellow nutsedge is aggressive and can quickly overtake lawns, gardens, and agricultural fields. It grows during the summer months – from late May through September. Spreading through underground tubers and quickly multiplying throughout the soil, this weed will compete with other plants for resources, making it difficult to maintain healthy plant growth.
\n\n\n\nYellow nutsedge is a perennial weed with a distinctive yellow-green color and triangular stem that grows to around 2-3 feet tall. It has long, narrow leaves that emerge from the base of the plant and a small, cone-shaped flower head that appears in the summer. It can be easily confused with other grassy weeds, but the triangular stem is a key identifying feature.
\n\n\n\nThis sedge weed typically grows in warm-season grasses, including bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass. Preventing its growth can be challenging, but maintaining good soil drainage, regular mowing, and proper fertilization can help keep it at bay.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial sedge weed
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, poorly-drained soil or areas with standing water
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic to humans and animals
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Dig up and remove tubers or apply post-emergent herbicides (be careful with your application to avoid damaging desirable plants)
\n\n\n\nThe answer is yes, it can. However, its effectiveness may not be as potent as regular weed killers. Vinegar works by killing the green parts of the plant on contact, but it won’t eliminate the root. So, while vinegar may be a natural option for dealing with a few weeds, it may not be the best choice for getting rid of a larger infestation.
Selective herbicides target specific types of plants while leaving other plants unharmed. They are often used in lawn care and agriculture to control weeds without damaging desirable plants or crops.
They work by targeting specific enzymes or metabolic processes unique to certain types of plants. For example, broadleaf herbicides are a type of selective herbicide that target broadleaf weeds while leaving grasses unharmed. Grasses have a different type of metabolism than broadleaf plants, and the herbicide is designed to target specific enzymes that are present in broadleaf plants but not in grasses.
Selective herbicides are useful for controlling weeds in areas where non-target plants are present. They can be applied as a spot treatment or broadcast over a large area. But remember to follow the label instructions carefully and use caution when applying selective herbicides, as they can still have negative impacts on the environment and non-target plants if used improperly.
Non-selective herbicides work by killing or damaging any plant they come into contact with, regardless of the plant species or variety. They do this by disrupting important metabolic processes in the plant, such as photosynthesis or protein synthesis, which ultimately leads to the plant’s death.
The active ingredients in non-selective herbicides can vary, but they are typically broad-spectrum and highly effective at killing plants. Some common active ingredients in non-selective herbicides include glyphosate, glufosinate, and paraquat.
Non-selective herbicides are typically used in situations where all vegetation needs to be removed. However, their non-specific nature means they also can harm non-target plants and should be used cautiously.
While weeds may seem like an insurmountable problem in Atlanta, there are many effective ways to combat them. By identifying the eight worst offenders and implementing the strategies outlined above, homeowners and gardeners can take control of their outdoor spaces and enjoy a weed-free lawn and garden.
\n\n\n\nRemember, a healthy lawn is your best defense against weeds, so fertilize and water regularly. And if it doesn’t work, don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty and pull weeds out by the roots. With a little persistence and some expert guidance, a beautiful, weed-free yard is within reach.
For more information on weed control and lawn care, reach out to an Atlanta lawn care pro near you.
Main Image Credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"8 Worst Lawn Weeds in Atlanta, GA (and How to Get Rid of Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/1789c/Grass-weeds.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/107df/Grass-weeds.jpg 320w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/293e9/Grass-weeds.jpg 500w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/f2cbb/Grass-weeds.jpg 800w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/1789c/Grass-weeds.jpg 960w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/c26c2/Grass-weeds.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/1dd6e/Grass-weeds.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/67b76/Grass-weeds.webp 320w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/8df11/Grass-weeds.webp 500w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/98a65/Grass-weeds.webp 800w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/1dd6e/Grass-weeds.webp 960w,\n/static/0ff494480bedac51cc4d4f4fa991d2bb/3cc96/Grass-weeds.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Worst Lawn Weeds in Atlanta, GA (and How to Get Rid of Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Don't let weeds take over your lawn. Learn how to tackle the 8 worst weeds in Atlanta and keep your lawn lush and healthy year-round."}}},{"node":{"id":"1b8efa3d-8665-5f24-86c1-df248f59d7ed","slug":"worst-weeds-in-richmond-va","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/richmond/worst-weeds-in-richmond-va/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"08edb056-11a9-55f1-a92d-6400a6e86bbc","name":"Richmond","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/richmond/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"Richmond’s mild climate gives weeds plenty of opportunities to invade, often undetected. Here’s a guide to some of the worst weeds in Richmond — and how to control them.
\n","content":"\nWith four mild but distinct seasons, Richmond offers a perfect environment for us to enjoy the great outdoors. It also gives weeds plenty of opportunities to invade, often undetected. Here’s a guide to some of the worst weeds in Richmond and how to control them.
\n\n\n\nFar more insidious than the annual weeds covered above, nutsedge (pictured above) has the unfortunate distinction of being an annual weed, which means that its invasions are not limited to spring or fall. This very aggressive weed requires a long-term strategy to eliminate, so be prepared for a marathon rather than a sprint. Nutsedge thrives in moist areas and can be an indicator that you’re overwatering. Small patches of nutsedge can be eliminated by digging out (to a depth of 10 inches), but larger concentrations will have to be treated with a specific post-emergent herbicide during warm months.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/sPdtBA44JjuK6q1NlAvEXcCx5sIRe83_ReXEaluVI576F8l7SYgXZ3i0IqXNvshCSJ9KrdKIZIudDA0Cg_ZtF-7sgHhcdJIklP4SOo0bO-s0MdnlJPLryU8d6Vo9zcwhNddOE7lp\")
Despite our childhood wonder and making wishes blowing on the white poofs of dandelion seeds, this is one noxious weed. What’s more, those “wishes” send airborne seeds far and wide — for miles — much to the dismay of anyone with a lawn. The key to controlling these perennial weeds is to catch them in the spring before they’ve had time to spread. As soon as you spot one in the lawn, take care to pull up the entire plant including the taproot. If you’ve got a dandelion problem, then a broadleaf herbicide applied in the fall can help.
\n\n\n\nA cool-season annual, chickweed is adaptable to almost any condition, although it prefers moist, well-irrigated soil. If it’s allowed to spread, you’ll notice it first by the small white flowers it sends out. You can control it by manually pulling up the plants by their shallow roots as they appear. However, the bare areas they leave in the lawn are an invitation to other weeds. Aeration and reseeding in the early fall can help to fill in any gaps in the turf. Use herbicides as a last resort, only if frequent mowing doesn’t prevent the chickweed from going to seed.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CCHjuWXl8WimgoikEJmEhZYsAaamJFLW3J8vTGXISv7BHsl2FknB7LV7tNf9YWHfQdQsBO4EZX7ppDm8fJCWnMuLBvR24aNg2AyMDB-ePXdxtV-Zs1TT8ehxouOG-bVXX0FHa5Ae\")
Another winter annual, purple deadnettle is part of the mint family that makes its appearance in late March and early April. Mild winter seasons can help these worst weeds in Richmond can get a head start, taking advantage of any gaps in the lawn. Bare spots in your lawn can also be exploited by aggressive summer weeds like crabgrass. Hand weeding is effective for small outbreaks, but applying a pre-emergent herbicide in the fall is the only way to prevent an infestation. Don’t bother treating with herbicide in the spring. Your best course of action is actually to mow regularly to prevent the mature plants from going to seed.
\n\n\n\nRemember that most weeds are opportunists who exploit any gap in the lawn and take advantage of issues in that make it easy for them to outcompete turfgrass. The best way to defend your lawn against them is to keep it lush, dense, and healthy. Aeration, good mowing technique, appropriate irrigation, and well-timed fertilization will all contribute to your lawn’s health. A bit of effort spent on maintaining a healthy lawn will save you loads of time spent combatting the weeds.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Richmond? Visit our Richmond, Va., lawn care page.
\n","title":"Worst Weeds in Richmond, Va.","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.2229299363057324,"src":"/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/1789c/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg","srcSet":"/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/107df/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg 320w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/293e9/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg 500w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/f2cbb/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg 800w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/1789c/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg 960w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/4fb49/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.jpg 1920w","srcWebp":"/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/1dd6e/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/67b76/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp 320w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/8df11/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp 500w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/98a65/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp 800w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/1dd6e/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp 960w,\n/static/226823db4ec72f2e93dae08fcc5a67ac/62477/nutsedge-grass-pixabay.webp 1920w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Worst Weeds in Richmond, Va. | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"0eef1b6a-ab75-5022-a234-bc377481d67c","slug":"best-grass-types-south-carolina","path":"/lawn-care/sc/best-grass-types-south-carolina/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"1ea697f8-5b42-5431-b368-7296faebead2","name":"South Carolina","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/sc/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Nestled between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, the Palmetto State is blessed with a moderate climate, abundant rainfall, and picturesque scenery. These factors make it an ideal location for growing a beautiful lawn. But with numerous options available, choosing the right grass type for your yard can take time and effort. Take […]
\n","content":"\nNestled between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, the Palmetto State is blessed with a moderate climate, abundant rainfall, and picturesque scenery. These factors make it an ideal location for growing a beautiful lawn. But with numerous options available, choosing the right grass type for your yard can take time and effort.
\n\n\n\nTake a closer look at the 6 best grass types for South Carolina, from the drought-tolerant bermudagrass to the shade-loving Zoysiagrass. You’ll learn about crucial factors like water requirements, disease resistance, and ease of maintenance. With this information, you’ll be well on your way to a lush, green yard that’s the envy of the neighborhood.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season and cool-season grasses have distinct differences that are crucial to understanding their growing patterns. While warm-season grasses grow rapidly and are drought-resistant, cool-season grasses have a resilient and thick growth pattern.
\n\n\n\nHowever, these differences barely scratch the surface of their contrasting characteristics. The following additional details can help you distinguish between warm-season and cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nWhether you’re looking for a warm-season or cool-season grass, here are the top picks that are perfectly suited to South Carolina’s humid subtropical climate and soil conditions:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nA warm-season turfgrass that’s well-adapted to the hot and humid climate of South Carolina, bermudagrass boasts fast growth, which means it can quickly establish a thick and healthy turf. This grass variety is known for being drought-tolerant and able to withstand heavy foot traffic, which is why it’s a popular choice for lawns, sports fields, and golf courses in the area.
\n\n\n\nSeveral types of bermudagrass are available, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. For example, common bermudagrass is coarser and requires less maintenance. On the other hand, hybrid cultivars have a fine texture and refined appearance but require greater care to maintain.
\n\n\n\nProper care and attention are crucial to maintaining a healthy and beautiful bermudagrass lawn. Regular mowing and watering are necessary, and the grass also requires fertilization and aeration to keep it in top shape. In addition, the soil type and pH can affect the grass’s health and appearance, so homeowners should consider these factors when selecting a bermudagrass variety.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – some cultivars need more exposure to direct sunlight than others
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – may become dormant in extended periods of drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – requires frequent mowing, fertilization, and watering to maintain its health and appearance
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches – increase the mowing height during bouts of extreme heat or drought
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – can be prone to leaf spot, spring dead spot, brown patch, and dollar spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – mostly prone to armyworms, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, and white grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass species is notable for its extraordinary potential for quick growth, making it a favored alternative for homeowners seeking fast recovery from damage. However, this aggressive growth can have negative implications because it can cause the grass to invade and overrun other carefully manicured areas or nearby flower beds.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Carpetgrass-1.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sugeesh / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nDespite its similar appearance to crabgrass, carpetgrass has distinct qualities that make it a favored choice for homeowners in the southern parts of the state who are dealing with problematic lawn conditions. Specifically, it has the ability to thrive in areas that are prone to drought and lack nutrients, which makes it an attractive option when other types of grass may struggle to survive.
\n\n\n\nIn addition, carpetgrass also can grow and flourish in areas with limited sunlight, such as those surrounded by trees or other structures that block out the sun. This characteristic sets it apart from other grasses that may not be able to adapt to such conditions.
\n\n\n\nAlso referred to as Louisianagrass, this type of grass is able to withstand flooding and other water-related challenges. It can tolerate standing water for prolonged periods, which makes it an excellent option for properties that are susceptible to hurricanes, heavy rainfall, and flooding or that have poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nAnother benefit of carpetgrass is that it can grow without the need for additional fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. While some homeowners may choose to apply nitrogen to encourage growth, it is not necessary for the grass to thrive.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – although St. Augustinegrass is more shade-tolerant
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – it needs weekly mowing to control its tall seed heads
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low resistance – can be susceptible to large patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – mostly prone to white grubs and nematodes
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Sandy, moist, acidic soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Late spring to early summer is the optimal time to reseed carpetgrass, as the warm soil temperature will promote seed germination.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Centipedegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCommonly found in lawns across the southern U.S., centipedegrass is known for its dense, low-growing, and carpet-like appearance. Unlike other turfgrasses, this warm-season grass requires minimal mowing, fertilizer, and water, making it a great option for low-maintenance grass. In fact, it’s known as the “lazy man’s grass.”
\n\n\n\nWith a preference for partial shade and well-drained soils, centipedegrass is perfect for those who want a lawn that doesn’t need regular upkeep. Although it may not have the same deep green color as other types of grass, centipedegrass produces beautiful seed heads that become brown as they mature.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – grows best in areas with the most sun exposure but can survive even with six hours of direct sunlight per day
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low to moderate – may become dormant during long periods of drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low – thrives even with minimal fertilization, mowing, and watering
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-2 inches – for shaded areas, raise the mower height by half an inch
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – can be prone to iron chlorosis and centipedegrass decline
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance – mostly prone to ground pearl insects, nematodes, spittlebugs, sod webworms, and mole crickets
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, and well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass variety is ideal for homes in central South Carolina and most of the state.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Palmetto-St.-Augustine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso known as Charleston grass, St. Augustinegrass is a popular choice for lawns in coastal homes due to its ability to thrive in both sandy and clay soils. This makes it ideal for many areas along the Carolina coast. It can withstand the heat and salt that is common in these beachfront properties while also preferring warm winters and moist soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nWith its flat stems and broad leaves, St. Augustinegrass creates a lush and dense turf, resulting in a beautiful blue-green lawn. Its thick growth also makes it effective at crowding out most weeds. However, this grass variety is susceptible to fungal diseases and pests like chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – some cultivars are more shade-tolerant
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – needs frequent watering, mowing, and fertilization
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow tall in shade, standard cultivars 3-4 inches, and dwarf cultivars 2.5-3 inches)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate resistance – mostly prone to gray leaf spot, take-all root rot, and large patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – common pests include mole crickets, grubs, cutworms, chinch bugs, armyworms, webworms, and grass loopers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers moist (not muddy) and moderately fertile soil but can grow in most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: St. Augustinegrass is native to coastal regions and thrives in moist soils and temperate winters. But with the right growing conditions, it also can grow successfully in inland regions. Note, though, that compacted, clay soils would not be suitable for this grass variety.
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/solar-panels-working-2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Billy Lau / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWith its striking, dark green color and coarse, textured appearance, this cool-season grass is ideal for lawns in the northwestern parts of the state, like Greenville. It can withstand a wide range of growing conditions, including shade, heat, and drought.
\n\n\n\nOne of the benefits of tall fescue is its ability to maintain a deep root system, which allows it to maintain its green appearance. Although it requires moderate maintenance, including regular watering, fertilization, and mowing, this grass variety is known for its resilience, making it an excellent option for lawns that experience heavy foot traffic or environmental stressors.
\n\n\n\nWhile it may not have the same fine-textured appearance as other grass types, tall fescue’s hardiness makes it a favorite among homeowners who prioritize lawn health and longevity over aesthetics.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch forming)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – doesn’t recover easily from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations, as many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate resistance – can be prone to leaf spot, seedling disease, and brown patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate resistance – can be susceptible to armyworms, cutworms, sod webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For optimal results, apply fertilizer once during the months of September and November. Also, plant fresh grass seeds every couple of years if you wish to maintain a lush lawn and tackle any sparse or thinning spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAnother popular choice for lawns in South Carolina, Zoysiagrass grows well in hot and dry conditions – making it well-suited for the region’s climate. This warm-season turfgrass boasts a light green color and fine texture, creating a dense, carpet-like appearance. And because of its low to moderate maintenance needs, it’s a fantastic choice for homeowners who want a beautiful lawn without a lot of work.
\n\n\n\nOne of the standout features of Zoysiagrass is its ability to spread rapidly, thanks to its rhizomes and stolons. This allows it to quickly establish a thick and resilient turf that can withstand heavy foot traffic and pet use. Also, remember that although it can tolerate some shade, it prefers direct sunlight.
\n\n\n\nWhile Zoysiagrass requires less maintenance than some other grass varieties, it still needs proper care and attention to remain healthy and beautiful. This includes infrequent watering, fertilization, and mowing at the appropriate height.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – it needs ample sun exposure
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – although it needs supplemental watering during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – common diseases include large patch, fairy rings, leaf spot, dollar spot, curvularia, brown patch, root decline, powdery mildew, pythium blight, rust, and spring dead spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance – can be prone to chinch bugs, nematodes, armyworms, hunting billbugs, grubs, sod webworms, and mole crickets
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass variety is the top choice for homeowners who often organize backyard barbeques since it can withstand heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nLawns that experience heavy foot traffic require grass varieties that can withstand wear and tear. So if you’re looking for a grass type that can hold up to frequent use, both bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass are popular options. These grasses are known for their deep root systems, which help them stay resilient even when subjected to heavy foot traffic.
Caring for a lawn in a transition zone can be confusing, as it is located between the cool-season and warm-season grass regions. The best approach is to choose a grass type adaptable to both hot and cold temperatures and do the following:
• Fertilize it twice a year, in the fall and spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
• Water the lawn infrequently but deeply, allowing the soil to dry out between watering sessions.
• Aerate the soil in the fall or spring to improve drainage and nutrient absorption.
• Mow the grass to its recommended height, and leave some of the clippings to provide nutrients.
Also, monitor your lawn for pests and diseases, as the transitional climate can create favorable conditions for both. Look for signs of stress, such as discoloration or wilting, and address any issues promptly.
To have a pet-friendly lawn, choose a grass variety that can tolerate the challenges posed by pets, such as wear and tear, frequent paw traffic, and pet waste. For this purpose, many homeowners prefer tough grass varieties like bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass. These grasses are known for their ability to withstand the challenges of pet use, making them excellent candidates for a pet-friendly lawn in South Carolina.
Choosing the right grass for your lawn in South Carolina can be tricky. But by considering factors like moisture, sunlight, and maintenance requirements, you can find the perfect match for your specific needs. Whether you opt for the heat-tolerant bermudagrass or the resilient tall fescue, each of these grass types has unique strengths that make it a great choice for South Carolina’s unique climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBy giving your lawn the proper care and attention it deserves, you can ensure it stays healthy and vibrant year-round, enhancing the beauty and value of your home.
Reach out to a local lawn care professional today, and get started on your journey toward a lush, green yard that you can be proud of.
Main Image Credit: Anderson University, South Carolina / Good Grades / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for South Carolina","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/1789c/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/107df/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg 320w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/293e9/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg 500w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/f2cbb/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg 800w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/1789c/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg 960w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/c26c2/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/1dd6e/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/67b76/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp 320w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/8df11/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp 500w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/98a65/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp 800w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/1dd6e/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp 960w,\n/static/a088d73714046ad04ff8f46577db9649/3cc96/1280px-The_Front_Lawn_on_the_Campus_of_Anderson_University_South_Carolina.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for South Carolina | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking for the perfect grass type for your yard? Discover the 6 best grass types for South Carolina's climate and enjoy a lush, healthy lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"1317afa2-6990-56ff-b781-6b3693010f0c","slug":"drought-tolerant-landscaping-ideas-oklahoma","path":"/lawn-care/ok/drought-tolerant-landscaping-ideas-oklahoma/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Based in the south of France, Jeffery holds a master of science degree from the International University of Monaco. His hobbies include hiking, cycling, and traveling across Europe.","name":"Jeffery Keusseyan","id":"75c05140-c87e-540a-8d34-da174527f4cc","path":"/author/jeffery-keusseyan/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/12a7b239a959b7f6feee4e4b9495d63f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"d2d6ff96-cc14-5d0f-bbfe-f7eac3bba6d9","name":"Oklahoma","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ok/"}],"date":"May 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Several parts of Oklahoma are prone to tough periods of drought, especially in northwest counties, such as Cimarron, Texas, and Beaver. If you reside in similarly affected areas, it is vital you design a landscape that can tolerate drought conditions. If not, your yard could require plenty of maintenance and constant spending. So we’ve compiled […]
\n","content":"\nSeveral parts of Oklahoma are prone to tough periods of drought, especially in northwest counties, such as Cimarron, Texas, and Beaver. If you reside in similarly affected areas, it is vital you design a landscape that can tolerate drought conditions. If not, your yard could require plenty of maintenance and constant spending. So we’ve compiled a list of drought-tolerant landscaping ideas for Oklahoma, helping you spruce up your backyard in an efficient, cost-effective manner.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\nWhen a landscape is drought-tolerant, it can thrive with little to no supplemental water. It consists of boulders, hardscapes, native perennials, and other features that are considered low-maintenance. Essentially, they are features or plants that can withstand dry periods.
\n\n\n\nHowever, drought-tolerant does not mean zero water needs. Native plants that tolerate drought may still require some amount of water to grow or survive. They are not entirely resistant to drought, but their water needs are quite low compared to other high-maintenance plants. This is one of the key purposes of a drought-tolerant landscape— conserving water!
\n\n\n\nThe upcoming section will cover 8 ideas for a drought-tolerant landscape, including hardscapes and artificial turfgrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bur](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bur-Oak-Quercus-Macrocarpa.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative plants grow naturally in Oklahoma, comfortably able to thrive as they are accustomed to its climate and soil conditions. Going native can reduce the amount of time spent on maintenance, attract hummingbirds and beneficial pollinators, and boost the local ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nHowever, not all Oklahoma native plants are able to withstand dry periods. Some trees or wildflowers require plenty of water to grow, so they are obviously not a good fit for your low-maintenance landscape. Additionally, you need to consider your area’s plant hardiness zone to select the right drought-tolerant plants.
\n\n\n\nTo help your decision-making process, below are some suggestions for native drought-tolerant plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Depending on the plant’s size and type, expect to pay between $600 and $3,000 per flower bed, $25 and $50 per shrub, $150 and $3,000 per tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rain](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rain-Garden.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA rain garden is a planted depression that collects rainwater runoff from the surrounding landscapes. For this type of garden, the soil and plants are uniquely selected to absorb the collected water. You can also add local rocks to the rain garden, to set garden borders or just to increase your yard’s visual appeal. In a way, a rain garden lets mother nature do all the watering for us.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to conserving water, here are some key benefits of a rain garden:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Installing a rain garden yourself will cost $3 to $5 per square foot, depending on the materials and plants you use. If you decide to hire a professional, installation may cost between $10 and $15 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Artificial-turf-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sarah Stierch / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you wish a green lawn all year round, artificial grass is the way to go. You won’t have to worry about any damage from your kids running around playing lawn games. Just when you think it couldn’t get any better, synthetic turf doesn’t require any water! Artificial grass can withstand harsh weather conditions, including periods of drought.
\n\n\n\nDespite its high upfront cost, it can be a worthwhile investment and a terrific option for a drought-tolerant landscape.
\n\n\n\nHere are some benefits of artificial grass:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Hiring a professional landscaper to install artificial grass will cost you between $5 and $20 per square foot on average.
\n\n\n\n![\"Garden](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Garden-with-red-bark-mulch.jpg\")
Photo Credit: U. J. Alexander / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSimply put, mulch is an easy and cheap way to keep your garden bed hydrated. If you add some on top of deep-rooted plants with low water needs, you’ll get yourself a drought-tolerant yard. Mulch keeps your plant beds moist during the dry summer heat. You can add organic mulch that benefits the soil, or go for the aesthetically pleasing option with inorganic mulch.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: This depends on which type of mulch you choose. Wood mulch costs between $3 to $5 per 2 cubic foot bag, while landscape gravel costs between $4 to $30 per 0.5 cubic foot bag.
\n\n\n\n![\"Drip](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Drip-Irrigation-Detail.jpg\")
Photo Credit: GrigoriosMoraitis / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDrip irrigation will prevent water being wasted by runoff or evaporated. This installation applies water at the plant root zone where it’s needed the most. Because of this, soil moisture levels are kept at an optimal level. You can apply drip irrigation in your vegetable or perennial garden, even to water shrubs or trees. Overall, it is an efficient and economical way to water your garden.
\n\n\n\nHere are some other benefits of drip irrigation:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Most homeowners pay between $295 and $775 for a drip irrigation system.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rock-Garden-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: LookTarn / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for an alternative to turfgrasses, look no further than a rock garden. With low water and maintenance needs, a rock garden takes trimming, weeding, and mowing off your to-do list. It features carefully arranged rocks, boulders, or stones. Consider adding succulents or perennial flowers to create a beautiful, colorful, and inviting garden.
\n\n\n\nIf designing a rock garden seems like a back-breaking task, stick to smaller boulders or stones that can easily be moved around. This would allow you to reshape your garden whenever you feel like mixing things up a little.
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Rock garden projects will cost you between $600 and $700 on average. To buy and install rocks or boulders yourself, the cost will range from $460 to $1,000, depending on the size and type of rock.
\n\n\n\n![\"Stack](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Stack-of-Brick-Pavers-for-Hardscape.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JPLDesigns / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHardscapes are naturally low-maintenance features that are perfect for a drought-tolerant landscape. They are non-living elements that can improve your outdoor space functions. Unsurprisingly, they require no watering, pruning, or fertilizing. It’s great being able to relax with your family and friends around a fire pit, not worrying about countless hours of outdoor chores.
\n\n\n\nThese decorative and practical structures may still require some care, such as basic cleaning. Unless something goes majorly wrong, hardscaping does not require continuous maintenance for long periods of time.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of hardscaping for a drought-tolerant yard:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost will depend on the project size and type of feature you choose. Expect to pay between $2,000 and $4,500 for fencing, $370 and $2,235 for a fire pit, $5,055 and $17,275 for an outdoor kitchen.
\n\n\n\n![\"Xeriscaped](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Xeriscaped-Front-Yard-with-Dry-Creek-Bed-and-Solar-Lighting.jpg\")
Photo Credit: remedypic / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWe’re not following the “save the best for the last” format, but xeriscaping is certainly among the best ideas for a drought-tolerant landscape. Its essential purpose is to use as little water as possible, helping you obtain a low-water and low-maintenance garden. Xeriscaping can help you reduce water bills, cut back on energy consumption, and eliminate chores such as mowing and weeding.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, it can attract beneficial insects and promote biodiversity. For a drought-tolerant landscape, xeriscaping is highly recommended. It can help you create a beautiful and eco-friendly landscape with minimal water consumption.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping can include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: This depends on the size and type of project. For example, the cost of a groundcover ranges from $10 to $25. On average, homeowners spend between $5 and $20 per square foot on xeriscaping.
\n\n\n\nA drought-tolerant landscape does have financial benefits, but it also supports the local wildlife habitat. Native plants may serve as a valuable food source for many birds and insects, while a rain garden cleans the rainwater before it reaches lakes or rivers.
\n\n\n\nHere are more reasons why every Oklahoma homeowner should opt for a drought-tolerant landscape:
\n\n\n\nIn short, yes. A lot of homeowners think they’re the same concept, but their main difference can be spotted in each of the terms. Using plants as an example, drought-tolerant means they can withstand drought for a limited period only. If they go through months and months without any water, the plants could wither and die.
On the other hand, drought-resistant plants are ones that can go without water for long periods of time. Cacti are great examples of such plants, as we automatically picture them in dry, sunny areas.
Oklahoma lies in the South Central region of the United States, so it should come as no surprise that many parts of the state suffer from drought conditions. Areas northwest of Oklahoma City suffer more than the likes of Lincoln, Pittsburg, or McCurtain Counties.
To monitor the drought map and get weekly updates, you can check Oklahoma’s drought status here.
A low-maintenance, drought-tolerant landscape will still require the occasional upkeep. Nothing major, but just enough to keep all your features in tip-top shape.
Here are simple ways to care for your drought-tolerant yard:
• Yearly mulching
• Water your new plants until they are established
• Aerate your soil yearly
• Trim, prune, and weed when needed
• Test your soil every 3 to 5 years (pH, condition..)
A drought-tolerant landscape has several advantages. It helps you save time, reduce maintenance costs, and keep your area’s climate healthy. Transforming your landscape will result in a more sustainable, cost-effective, and valuable property.
\n\n\n\nThere are many plant species that thrive in the local climate. Explore the best native plants for Oklahoma to freshen up your garden with long-lasting trees and beautiful wildflowers. If your turfgrass is beginning to look grim and patchy, check out the best grass types for Oklahoma and enjoy barbecues on a lush, green lawn.
\n\n\n\nLooking to spend the weekend with your family at the Oklahoma City Zoo? Hire a local lawn care pro to trim the shrubs, mow the lawn, or plant drought-tolerant turfgrass such as Bermudagrass. We have trusted lawn care pros in Oklahoma City, Bixby, Okmulgee, and many other cities across the state.
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