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While there are no watering restrictions in Columbus when temperatures and precipitation are in their normal range, you will see a call to action during periods of drought. When temps go up, and the rivers go down, check with the city’s utilities department, or local news stations for updates. The ‘Burbs Some municipalities within the […]
\n","content":"\nWhile there are no watering restrictions in Columbus when temperatures and precipitation are in their normal range, you will see a call to action during periods of drought. When temps go up, and the rivers go down, check with the city’s utilities department, or local news stations for updates.
\n\n\n\nSome municipalities within the Columbus metro need to keep watering schedules in place year-round, especially during periods of excessive heat and limited rainfall. That’s because the suburban facilities serve many customers within a smaller region.
\n\n\n\nIn Westerville, for example, houses or businesses with addresses that end in even numbers can water the grass on even-numbered days. Subsequently, house and business addresses that end in odd numbers may water on odd-numbered days. The restriction doesn’t apply to trees, shrubs, gardens, and flowerbeds.
\n\n\n\nIn Delaware, Ohio, to conserve resources, voluntary restrictions are in place during normal rainfall. But the schedule becomes more rigid during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather. Homeowners whose properties have odd numbers can water on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Even-numbered addresses may water on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. In an effort to refill reserves, Delco Water Company prohibits watering on Mondays. During drought times in Ohio, residents are asked to limit car-washing, running the dishwasher and clothes washer.
\n\n\n\nWatering restrictions and conservation tips are similar in Gahanna, Dublin, Hilliard, Upper Arlington, Powell, Bexley, Grandview, and Granville.
\n\n\n\nYes, Ohioans may take it for granted, but water is a precious resource, although we do get a lot of rain here. Still, there are reasons to preserve water. Cutting down on water usage means a lower utility bill. Conserving water and using this precious resource as wisely as possible is always a good habit.
\n\n\n\nWater early in the morning or after the sun sets in the evening. Irrigating the lawn before 10 a.m. is preferred by experts, as it allows water to soak directly into the ground before evaporating. Mulching flowerbeds, garden and shrub areas helps to keep moisture in. Wash the car from a bucket of water; use a hose with a hose-end nozzle when it’s time to rinse.
\n\n\n\nThe Columbus Division of Public Utilities operates and maintains three water treatment plants, 37 water storage tanks, 26 pump stations, nearly 27,000 hydrants, and close to 3.500 miles of water lines. Nearly 134 million gallons of water are pumped into homes and businesses every day. That’s about 50 billion gallons a year to 1.2 million people.
\n\n\n\nPreventing water pollution and conserving resources is a community-wide responsibility. You can do your part by not pouring kitchen grease down the drain, properly disposing of household hazardous waste and yard and pet waste. You can also limit stormwater runoff by creating a rain garden. This area provides water for your garden and prevents pollutants from entering our water supply.
\n\n\n\nConsider volunteering for litter cleanup sessions along watersheds and waterways. That’s something you can do year-round in Columbus, rain or shine.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Columbus? Visit our Columbus Lawn Care page.
The 2020 Grant Fire east of the city was too close for comfort for many Sacramento homeowners. Though the city historically hasn’t been as affected by wildfires as neighboring areas, Sacramento may be more at risk in the future. Homes are also at risk from nearby house fires. Planning ahead is vital so that if […]
\n","content":"\nThe 2020 Grant Fire east of the city was too close for comfort for many Sacramento homeowners. Though the city historically hasn’t been as affected by wildfires as neighboring areas, Sacramento may be more at risk in the future. Homes are also at risk from nearby house fires. Planning ahead is vital so that if the worst comes to pass, you can increase fire safety.
\n\n\n\nFirewise landscaping or firescaping is one step to protecting your property. These landscape designs minimize combustible materials, create defensible spaces, and allow easier evacuation and fire department access. And no, you don’t need to turn your yard into barren dirt and rocks (unless you want to). These eight fire-resistant landscaping ideas for Sacramento will keep you safe and allow creativity.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nBefore we dive into design ideas, let’s unpack what works for fire safety and why. Defensible space is a crucial landscaping principle for fire protection. The idea is to reduce the chance of flames or embers jumping from one part of your landscaping to another toward your home.
\n\n\n\nFire safety experts break defensible space into three zones (0, 1, and 2), each with different recommendations. The zones cover between 0 feet and over 100 feet surrounding your home. Prioritize the innermost zone first, then work outward as far as possible. Here is a brief breakdown of each part of a defensible zone and their dos and don’ts:
\n\n\n\n| Zone | Distance Surrounding the Home | Things to Avoid | Recommended Landscaping Features |
| 0 | 0-5 feet | ● Woody plants ● Organic mulch ● Woodpiles ● Combustible trellises ● Stored items | ● Walkways ● Hardscapes ● Rocks and gravel |
| 1 | 5-30 feet | ● Closely bunched trees | ● Well-irrigated and maintained vegetation islands separated by hardscaping, mowed grass, or groundcovers ● Shrubs and trees with lower branches removed |
| 2 | 31-100+ feet or to the property line | ● Dense shrubs, trees, and herbaceous plants | ● Well-pruned, spaced-out shrubs and trees |
Landscape density is one of the most significant fire hazards in yards. If a fire is nearby and something on your property catches fire, it can jump from object to object toward your home. This danger is why the defensible space strategy advises against closely bunched vegetation. You can fill the area between plantings with turfgrass or hardscaping.
\n\n\n\nThe recommended distance between shrubs or trees depends on the slope. The steeper the slope, the more space is needed between the plants.
\n\n\n\n| Angle of the Slope | Space Between Shrubs | Space Between Trees |
| Less than 20% | 2 times the shrub’s height | 10 feet |
| 20-40% | 4 times the shrub’s height | 20 feet |
| Greater than 40% | 6 times the shrub’s height | 30 feet |
If you have a large property, consider incorporating fuel breaks. Fuel breaks are areas with a reduced fuel load to stop a fire in its tracks or slow it down. For example, a fuel break could be a strip of dirt cleared of vegetation or a paved path or roadway.
\n\n\n\nMost homeowners enjoy some greenery to spruce up their yards. However, it’s best to avoid some plantings altogether, either because they are inherently too close to each other or your home. Here are some examples of plant types that could inadvertently spread fire:
\n\n\n\n*Well-maintained hedges at the edge of your property can sometimes block embers from reaching your garden or home. However, if they do ignite, they could lead the fire toward your home.
\n\n\n\nNo plants are entirely fire-proof — they all can burn if the fire is hot enough. However, some plants are less likely to go up in flames than others. Fire-resistant plants have:
\n\n\n\nHydrated, well-cared-for plants will do better in a fire regardless of species. The additional dead plant material from dried-out, stressed vegetation fuels fires.
\n\n\n\nBut what about drought? Sacramento’s water restrictions may limit your watering schedule, and any missed days could make your plants drought-stressed and vulnerable to fire. Reduce your water needs with water-wise landscaping. Succulents are a popular low-maintenance option for water conservation. If you need extra water to care for your plants, consider rainwater harvesting to stretch resources further.
\n\n\n\nMany drought-tolerant plants are fire-resistant, as well. California native plants are most likely to check both boxes because they are well-adapted to the hot, dry summer weather when fire risk is highest. They also are more likely to be pollinator-friendly.
\n\n\n\nHere are some fire-resistant plants native to Sacramento:
\n\n\n\nOvergrown, dense plants provide more fuel for fires. Regular trimming will:
\n\n\n\nThough well-irrigated lawns have some fire resistance, overgrown grass with excess thatch may be a fire hazard. Keep grass mowed at 4 inches or less to reduce risk.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Fall-leaves-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nPlant debris is a natural part of any garden. Though fallen leaves and pine cones may provide a forest-like appearance to your yard, they can increase fire risk and provide a fuel trail for the spread of fire. Regularly cleaning plant litter decreases fire risk and makes your yard look neater. Here are some types of plant litter to watch out for:
\n\n\n\nPlant debris also may be on your porch, deck, roof, or gutter. A stray ember could ignite this debris and spread fire to your home. Clean your roof and gutter once or twice a year, though they may need more frequent attention if your plants shed excessively. Gutter guards can reduce debris buildup. Remove plant litter from porches and decks as it accumulates.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/gravel-mulch-1.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sten Porse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nMulch is any material spread over the soil’s surface to provide nutrients, suppress weeds, and regulate temperature. It’s usually applied around the base of trees and shrubs, flower beds, or paths.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch like wood chips, leaves, needles, bark, and straw may look nice, but they can catch fire and spread the flames further. Even some inorganic mulches, like shredded rubber, are susceptible to combustion. Use gravel or rocks instead, especially near the home and between vegetation islands.
\n\n\n\nOne of the most fire-resistant landscaping options is hardscaping. Hardscaping uses concrete, cement, pavers, gravel, bricks, and stones to create patios, paths, and other landscape features. This landscape design creates an ideal area for backyard hosting. You can have a completely hardscaped yard or combine it with greenery.
\n\n\n\nUsing non-flammable materials, you can create a defensible perimeter around your home, separating the house from potentially flammable garden plants. You also can use it between vegetation islands to make it more difficult for flames to travel.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to install a fire pit or outdoor heater as part of your hardscape, ensure it is at least 10 feet away from anything that could catch fire. Always follow Sacramento’s recreational burning guidelines and double-check that the fire has been put out before you leave the area.
\n\n\n\nYour wicker furniture and wooden pergola could be kindling in the making. Wooden, reed, or bamboo fences also may create a dangerous fire path, especially if the fence connects to your home. These outdoor structures and furniture are most hazardous in the 5-foot perimeter around your home. Consider replacing them with metal or vinyl alternatives.
\n\n\n\nYou also should be mindful of cushions, umbrellas, and tablecloths — put them away when not in use or don’t use them at all.
\n\n\n\nThe pathways surrounding your home can create defensible space, but only if they’re well-maintained. Overgrown plants, firewood, wooden tools, and flammable toys left on walkways could allow flames to spread and make emergency access more difficult.
\n\n\n\nClear walkways to minimize the chance of fire jumping across. This maintenance also will allow for easier evacuation and firefighter access in an emergency. Remove stray items and trim plants lining paths to minimize fire hazards. Firewood is best kept on the outer edge of your yard rather than next to the home. It’s also a good idea to keep driveways clear for easier evacuation.
\n\n\n\nIf you live on a large property, you should clear roadways by thinning and pruning trees, mowing the grass, and cutting back shrubs. These actions will allow easier emergency access and evacuation.
\n\n\n\nThe fire season in Northern California generally peaks in summer and fall. However, extreme drought may extend the fire season into winter and spring. You can check the current fire hazard severity on CAL FIRE’s Fire Hazard Severity Zone map.
Fire can spread in several ways, including:
● Direct contact: Actively burning fire directly touches a flammable object.
● Embers: Small embers can float through the air or be blown by the wind. If they come into contact with something, they may or may not light it on fire, depending on its flammability.
● Fuel paths: A continuous line of flammable objects or plants can lead a fire toward a home. For example, plants on the other side of a wooden fence can ignite the fence, which may lead the fire directly to the home.
● Fuel ladders: Living or dead vegetation can create a path upward for fire to spread. For example, a shrub on fire may light the tree above it if there isn’t sufficient room between the flames and the branches.
● Radiant heat: If temperatures are hot enough, flammable objects may combust without direct contact with fire or embers.
Roofs are part of the home most vulnerable to fire. This risk is why trimming trees and clearing debris from the gutters and rooftops are essential. While wooden and shingle roofs are most at risk, materials like metal, clay, and tile reduce risk.
Other vulnerable areas include:
● Vents
● Chimneys
● Eaves
● Soffits
● Windows
● Wooden siding
● Wooden decks and porches
● Patio covers
Fire preparedness is already overwhelming. You need to check evacuation routes, pack an emergency supply kit, and create plans to transport your pets.
While you may need to complete those tasks yourself, you can offload landscaping to a professional. They will assess your landscape’s safety, provide advice, and execute any necessary changes so you can feel peace of mind.
Main Image Credit: Wildroof / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nIn the face of frequent droughts, many SoCal homeowners have had to consider their lawns more. Can their turf survive the hot, dry summers without constant irrigation?
\n\n\n\nBrown lawns may seem inevitable, but you don’t have to settle for excessive water waste or dead grass. If you choose one of the best drought-resistant grass types for Southern California, you can be more eco-friendly while saving time and money.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\nAll turfgrass is categorized into two types: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses do best in hot southern climates, while cool-season grasses do well in cold northern climates.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are a safe bet for most of Southern California. However, you can use cool-season grasses as long as you don’t live in the Southeastern desert regions of the state. Let’s review the crucial differences to narrow down your options.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass has a medium to coarse texture and a gray-green color. Hybrid varieties have a finer texture and a blue-green to dark green color. You can establish bermudagrass from seeds, sod, or plugs.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is resilient in the face of disease, heat, foot traffic, and drought. It will require infrequent irrigation, though it benefits from deep watering to develop a healthy root system. Because of its high salinity tolerance, it makes an excellent lawn for coastal properties. It’s also a good choice for families with playful children and pets.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass ranges from low to high maintenance depending on the variety, with hybrids requiring the most fertilization and mowing. It may spread where it’s not wanted due to its aggressive growth, though edging can help. This grass’ worst enemies are shade and cold weather. It will become more vulnerable to weeds and traffic damage under those conditions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization.
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases like spring dead spot are common; low resistance to insects like bermudagrass mites, dichondra flea beetles, and fiery skippers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Buffalograss.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Titus Tscharntke / Pixnio / CC0
\n\n\n\nUC Riverside and UC Davis researchers developed the buffalograss cultivar UC Verde to provide more drought-tolerant options for California homeowners. Other varieties can also do well in Southern California, though they may be less drought tolerant. Buffalograss is available in seed, sod, and plug form, while the UC Verde cultivar is only available as plugs.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is low maintenance, requiring little mowing, fertilization, and irrigation. You can mow it every few weeks or leave it unmowed for a meadow-like appearance. Its water needs are less than half of other common grass types, including bermudagrass and tall fescue. Once established, it can hold its own against weeds, diseases, and pests.
\n\n\n\nLike many warm-season grasses, buffalograss doesn’t handle shade or cold weather well. It will turn brown at the first sign of frost or if not watered for long periods in summer. To keep a buffalograss lawn green in winter, use biodegradable green dye or overseed with annual ryegrass. Buffalograss’ light to grayish-green color may not appeal to everyone. The expensive seeds and sod also can be a deterrent.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low — best suited for full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low, but light use or rare heavy use is OK
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency — once per week or less
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches or leave unmowed; UC Verde doesn’t grow taller than 4-6 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good tolerance against diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers soils that aren’t sandy
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Buffalograss often turns brown in winter. Because of its few flowerheads, it produces little pollen and seeds, making it suitable for those with allergies.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Kikuyugrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose, Macleay Grass Man / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis East African grass has a coarse texture and light green color, similar to St. Augustinegrass. Though it is not a common turfgrass choice in California, kikuyugrass has gained popularity over the years.
\n\n\n\nThis low-maintenance grass isn’t very susceptible to disease. It thrives in moderate temperatures but also can handle heat and drought. You can plant kikuyugrass in moderate shade and low-fertility soils. Its aggressive growth allows it to recover from wear and tear quickly.
\n\n\n\nWhy isn’t kikuyugrass more popular for lawns? Due to its aggressive growth, this grass is considered a weed in many parts of coastal and inland California. Its rapid growth makes it prone to thatch, making mowing difficult. You’ll need to mow frequently to keep up with growth and avoid scalping damage. Remember that kikuyugrass is susceptible to cold and will go dormant in winter.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-1.5; it’s vulnerable to scalping damage if it isn’t mowed frequently
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile, moderately drained soils with a light to medium texture; can tolerate low fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass type is native to East Africa and was imported to California to help with erosion. Its aggressive growth makes it more resilient but makes many consider it a weed. It develops thatch easily.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nNative to Asia, Zoysiagrass is dark green with a fine to medium texture. It creates a dense, prickly turf once established.
\n\n\n\nThis low-maintenance grass is well-adapted to warm climates. Not only can it survive drought and high heat, but it also holds up well to foot traffic. The only major pest it deals with is nematodes. It will require little fertilizer and a moderate amount of mowing. Though Zoysiagrass prefers full sun, you can plant it in a yard with partial shade.
\n\n\n\nOne downside of Zoysiagrass is its slow establishment. As a result, many homeowners choose to skip seeds and use Zoysiagrass sod or sprigs. Its density also poses a challenge, making it difficult to mow. Zoysiagrass lawns become dormant in winter, but you can improve their color with fall fertilization.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall; watch out for nematodes
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining; some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if the grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Agrostis_pallens_turf.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ruff tuff cream puff / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThough there are many types of bentgrass, it’s no surprise that California native bentgrass is well adapted to drought conditions. This species is also called seashore bentgrass, thingrass, or Agrostis pallens. It has uniform growth, a medium texture, and deep green color. Some consider it a turfgrass alternative, but you can still make it into a traditional lawn.
\n\n\n\nSeashore bentgrass requires half the water of typical cool-season grasses and can stay green year-round. Its self-repairing rhizomes allow it to bounce back from damage. This grass naturally grows from around 4 to 28 inches. You can cut it short or keep it long for a meadow-like appearance. Remember, you can’t go straight from shaggy lawn to close-cut turf, or you could damage the grass. Lower the height gradually if you want to switch.
\n\n\n\nBecause of its slow establishment and growth rate, seashore bentgrass sod is expensive. As the name suggests, this grass type is best suited for coastal areas. It doesn’t do well in the central valley or the California deserts.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; you can mow it or let it grow out
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-8
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Any soil with good drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass can be mowed or left long and meadow-like. It is best suited for coastal areas.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3863142192_bea9f90f09_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis cool-season grass is one of the most common lawn grasses in California. Tall fescue is dark green with a moderate to coarse texture. Turf-type tall fescues and dwarf turf-type tall fescues are shorter with a finer texture.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is generally low-maintenance, with little watering required. Sow densely for a uniform lawn and good weed and disease resistance. It also handles moderate traffic well. Tall fescue will stay green in warm and cool weather if neither is too extreme. It handles heat and drought stress well due to its extensive root system. Plant it in the sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue’s bunch-type growth pattern means it won’t repair bare patches on its own. Reseed thin or patchy lawns to improve their appearance and performance. Though it does well in many parts of the state, it’s unsuitable for high-altitude areas.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate, but low ability to recuperate from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Fast rate of growth, so plan to mow often
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side); do not mow less than 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate under proper management conditions
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile, good drainage, but will tolerate a wider range of soil conditions
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Reseed every few years to repair bare spots and thinning; don’t plant old varieties such as Kentucky-31; look for “turf-type” tall fescue (TTTF). Seed blends with more than one TTTF cultivar give the best chance for a strong lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe best no-mow grass types are UC Verde buffalograss and native California bentgrass. You can let either grow out into a natural-looking meadow. If you revert to a shorter height, gradually bring the mowing height down and never cut off more than one-third of the grass’ blade at once.
If you want traffic tolerance, the most durable grass types are bermudagrass, kikuyugrass, and Zoysiagrass. Each can handle playful dogs, energetic children, and backyard parties without falling into ruin. Remember that all grass types can be damaged with excessive or rough use. However, these grass types stand the best chance of resistance and recovery.
The best grass types for full sun are bermudagrass, buffalograss, and native California bentgrass. These types prefer full sun and may not do well in the shade. Zoysiagrass also does well in full sun, but it will tolerate more shade than the others.
A water-efficient lawn is only one component of drought-resistant landscaping. When paired with plants native to Southern California, your yard could save you water, time, and money. It also will be more fire-resistant.
\n\n\n\nIf you need assistance revamping your lawn or other landscaping, let Wikilawn connect you with local pros. You can find lawn care and landscaping companies in Long Beach, Santa Ana, Riverside, and many more SoCal cities.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: UCLA / Josh Lee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"6 Best Drought-Tolerant Grass Types for Southern California","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/1789c/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/107df/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/293e9/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/f2cbb/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/1789c/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/c26c2/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/1dd6e/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/67b76/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/8df11/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/98a65/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/1dd6e/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/a890c81868ffc23742a573d3abfce348/3cc96/UCLA_Campus_on_lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Drought-Tolerant Grass Types for Southern California | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"The best drought-tolerant grass types for Southern California are bermudagrass, buffalograss, kikuyugrass, Zoysiagrass, native bentgrass, and tall fescue."}}},{"node":{"id":"40d9a461-4028-5e56-8889-f932c5567e30","slug":"best-grass-types-charleston","path":"/lawn-care/sc/charleston/best-grass-types-charleston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a8c83048-dc3b-5f6e-b021-c92b6000eb0c","name":"Charleston","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/sc/charleston/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"1ea697f8-5b42-5431-b368-7296faebead2","name":"South Carolina","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/sc/"}],"date":"May 8th, 2023","excerpt":"Nestled along the picturesque coast of South Carolina, Charleston is a city known for its vibrant culture, historic architecture, and lush greenery. From sprawling parks to manicured lawns, the Holy City boasts an array of outdoor spaces that showcase the beauty of the Lowcountry. However, maintaining a healthy and vibrant lawn in Charleston can be […]
\n","content":"\nNestled along the picturesque coast of South Carolina, Charleston is a city known for its vibrant culture, historic architecture, and lush greenery. From sprawling parks to manicured lawns, the Holy City boasts an array of outdoor spaces that showcase the beauty of the Lowcountry.
\n\n\n\nHowever, maintaining a healthy and vibrant lawn in Charleston can be challenging due to the city’s hot and humid climate, which can wreak havoc on many grass varieties. To help homeowners and landscapers choose the best grass for their lawns, here’s a list of the five best grass types for Charleston.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season and cool-season grasses have distinct differences in growth patterns and requirements.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses: As the name suggests, these grass varieties grow actively and thrive during summer – when the temperature is between 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They go dormant and turn brown during winter, so they should be planted in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses: The ideal temperature range for them to thrive is typically between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which is why they’re most active in the spring and fall and struggle in the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nIn Charleston, warm-season grasses are the best option for lawns because they are well-suited to the region’s long, hot summers and can tolerate drought and high temperatures. Some of the most common warm-season grasses you’ll find in the area include centipedegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nExplore the most common grass types available for Charleston lawns and choose the one that will best help you achieve your goals for your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a popular grass variety for lawns, golf courses, and athletic fields in Charleston, and for a good reason. This hardy grass type can stay pretty while it tolerates heavy foot traffic and withstands the city’s unique climate and environmental challenges.
\n\n\n\nOne thing homeowners love about bermudagrass is its ability to thrive in full sunlight. This grass variety requires a lot of direct sunlight to grow and remain healthy, making it an ideal choice for homeowners who have lawns exposed to full sun throughout the day.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass also has a high tolerance for drought, meaning it can continue to grow and remain green even during periods of low rainfall or high temperatures.
Classification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – some cultivars need more time in the sun than others
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – but may become dormant in long periods of drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – requires frequent watering, fertilization, and mowing
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches – raise the mowing height to retain more moisture during drought or extreme heat
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – can be prone to brown patch, dollar spot, leaf spot, and spring dead spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – mostly prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, and armyworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in almost all soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Homeowners may find this grass species appealing due to its remarkable ability to grow rapidly. But its aggressive growth can have adverse effects as it may invade and take over other meticulously maintained areas and plant beds.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Carpetgrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sugeesh / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nDespite its resemblance to crabgrass, this grass variety has unique characteristics that make it a desirable option for homeowners facing challenging lawn conditions. For example, its ability to thrive in drought-prone and nutrient-poor environments makes it an ideal choice where other grass types may find it hard to survive.
\n\n\n\nWhile other grass varieties struggle in areas with limited sunlight, carpetgrass can grow and flourish in shaded areas, making it an excellent option for lawns surrounded by trees or other structures that block out the sun.
\n\n\n\nAlso known as Louisianagrass, this grass variety can withstand flooding and other water-related challenges. It can tolerate standing water for extended periods, making it an ideal choice for Charleston homes threatened by hurricanes, heavy rainfall, and flooding or properties with poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, carpetgrass requires minimal maintenance as it can grow without additional fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Although, some homeowners may still opt to apply nitrogen to promote growth.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – less shade-tolerant than St. Augustinegrass
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate – its shallow roots won’t survive in dry conditions
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – Requires weekly mowing to control its tall seed heads
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low resistance – mostly prone to large patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – can be prone to nematodes and white grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Sandy, acidic, infertile, moist but not muddy
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Often propagated through seeds, this grass type doesn’t fare well in dry climates.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a popular grass type in South Carolina, thanks to its ability to produce dense lawns that demand minimal upkeep. Due to its slow growth rate, it doesn’t require frequent mowing, so you won’t need to spend hours each week tending to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nFurthermore, this resilient grass can survive in nutrient-deficient and acidic soils. Its light color and medium texture are well-suited to the region’s soil types and climate conditions. Since it’s resistant to most pests and diseases, centipedegrass is a great option for homeowners who want to avoid using chemicals and pesticides on their lawn.
\n\n\n\nHowever, its primary limitation is its inability to withstand heavy foot traffic. As such, it’s best suited for areas with minimal activity and not recommended for homeowners who often host barbecue parties in their backyards.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – thrives in areas that receive abundant sunlight but can still grow well with as little as six hours of sun exposure per day
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low to moderate – may turn brown and become dormant during extended periods of drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low – grows well even with minimal watering, mowing, and fertilization
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-2 inches – increase the mower height by 1/2 inch for lawns in shaded areas
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – mostly prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – can be prone to mole crickets, sod webworms, spittlebugs, nematodes, and ground pearl insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, and well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Avoid overusing fertilizers and excessive nitrogen levels to maintain a balanced ecosystem in your lawn, discouraging the proliferation of harmful lawn diseases and pest infestations.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St.-Augustinegrass.jpg\")
St. Augustinegrass
Photo Credit: Yercaud-elango / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
St. Augustinegrass, also known as Charleston grass, is a popular choice for lawns in coastal homes. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soils, which are common in many areas of Charleston. Homes along the Carolina coast can benefit from this grass variety’s ability to tolerate heat and salt while preferring warm winters and moist soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type’s flat stems and broad leaves create a dense turf, resulting in a lush and beautiful blue-green lawn. Due to its thick growth, St. Augustinegrass is effective at crowding out most weeds. But it can be prone to fungal diseases and pests like chinch bugs. As such, you should take preventative measures to protect your lawns from these potential threats.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate – some cultivars are more shade-tolerant
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high – needs frequent watering, mowing, and fertilization
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow tall in shade, standard cultivars 3-4 inches, and dwarf cultivars 2.5-3 inches)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate resistance – common diseases include large patch, take-all root rot, and gray leaf spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance – mostly prone to grubs, chinch bugs, armyworms, cutworms, grass loopers, mole crickets, and webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers moist (not muddy) and moderately fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Indigenous to coastal areas, St. Augustinegrass favors damp soils and temperate winters, but it can flourish even in inland regions as long as proper growing conditions are met. Although, it wouldn’t do well in compacted, clay soils.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a popular choice for homeowners who want a lawn with a beautiful, light to medium green hue and dense coverage. While different varieties of Zoysiagrass have varying characteristics, most have a medium to coarse texture.
\n\n\n\nWhat makes Zoysiagrass especially great for Charleston is its remarkable ability to thrive in any soil type, be it sand, loam, or clay, and its salt tolerance. Additionally, this grass type is incredibly versatile – able to withstand heat, drought, and even cold weather. It has deep roots that can reach up to 6 feet underground, allowing it to access moisture and nutrients even during periods of low rainfall.
\n\n\n\nThis grass variety’s dense growth pattern allows it to handle heavy traffic and activity with ease, making it perfect for families with pets and children. While it requires minimal maintenance, adding nitrogen during the growing season can support its carpet-like growth.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – it needs adequate sun exposure
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – although you need to give it supplemental water during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – common diseases include spring dead spot, rust, pythium blight, powdery mildew, root decline, brown patch, curvularia, dollar spot, leaf spot, and fairy wings
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance – can be prone to mole crickets, sod webworms, grubs, hunting billbugs, armyworms, nematodes, and chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but thrives in well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This turfgrass is a popular pick for those who frequently host outdoor gatherings in their backyard, as it can easily handle heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nTwo grass types are perfect for shady areas in Charleston – St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass. St. Augustinegrass is known for its high tolerance to shade and can thrive even with just four hours of sunlight per day. With excellent drought tolerance and disease resistance, it is well-suited for Charleston’s warm and humid climate.
On the other hand, centipedegrass is a low-maintenance option that also tolerates shade well. It has a fine texture and medium green color, making it ideal for any Charleston landscape.
Dogs love running around the backyard during playtime hours, so you need a resilient grass type that can withstand high paw traffic and pet activities. Zoysiagrass is known for its durability and ability to recover quickly from damage, making it an ideal choice for pet owners.
Additionally, this grass variety tends to have fewer issues with common lawn pests and diseases, which can be a concern for those who want to keep their pets safe and healthy while playing outdoors.
Bermudagrass is another grass type that can withstand heavy foot traffic on your Charleston lawn. This grass variety is known for its tough, durable texture, making it an ideal option for areas that receive a lot of wear and tear.
During dormancy, grass enters a state of hibernation to conserve resources and energy during periods of environmental stress such as extreme cold, heat, or drought. As a result, the grass appears brown or straw-colored and shows no signs of new growth. The blades become dry and brittle, making them more susceptible to damage and not spring back up after being compressed. Footprints left on dormant grass will remain longer than on healthy grass.
Remember that dormancy is a natural process for grasses, allowing them to survive until conditions improve. When the weather warms up or cools down and there is sufficient moisture, the grass will come out of dormancy and start to grow again. Avoid walking on the dormant grass during this time to prevent unnecessary damage. Also, continue basic lawn care, such as mowing and watering, to ensure the grass stays healthy during dormant periods.
Picking the right grass variety can be the key to achieving the lush, vibrant lawn of your dreams. With several grass types available, you can choose a low-maintenance option or one that can tolerate the Holy City’s unique environmental challenges the most.
\n\n\n\nConsider factors like the amount of sunlight your lawn receives, soil type, and water availability to select the ideal grass type for your needs. Whether you’re drawn to the resilience and drought tolerance of Zoysiagrass, the thick and luscious texture of St. Augustinegrass, or the durability of bermudagrass, there’s a grass variety that is perfect for your lawn.
Reach out to a Charleston lawn care professional today, and create the backyard paradise that your family and friends will enjoy.
Main Image Credit: Paul Gillett / Geograph / CC BY-SA 2.0
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\n","content":"\nLiving in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all those nearby public green spaces. Achieve your landscaping ambitions by planting one of the best grass types for Minnesota, detailed below.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses boils down to their distinct biologies, which cause them to complete photosynthesis in different ways. Specifically, the number of carbon atoms the grass type carries during photosynthesis determines the type of weather in which various grass types can grow.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses contain four carbon atoms, meaning they can convert carbon dioxide into oxygen more easily in hot weather, favoring temps up to 95 degrees. Grasses under this classification typically grow from early summer through early fall, as they are drought-tolerant, lovers of full sun, and haters of frigid conditions.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses contain three carbon atoms, making them best suited for temperatures between 65 degrees and 75 degrees. Their prime growing season is from late winter to early spring, as they are unbothered by frost and can withstand shade and colder weather. They also actively grow in autumn.
\n\n\n\nWhile our summers are becoming increasingly warmer, it’s because of Minnesota’s cold winters that the only grass types that can flourish here are cool-season varieties.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Kentucky_Blue_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA favorite of homeowners across Minnesota, Kentucky bluegrass is beloved for its thick, carpet feel; dark green, rounded blades; and blue-tipped seedheads. Germination of this grass species takes place through subterranean stems called rhizomes, which can also help repair the grass if it starts to suffer under heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nThis turfgrass has little tolerance for shade and delights in full sun — as long as it gets plenty of water. Periods of drought are not welcomed by Kentucky bluegrass, but it can survive just fine, falling dormant to protect itself. Of all the cool-season grasses, though, this choice is the best at withstanding the below-freezing temps Minnesota is known for.
\n\n\n\nTo keep this high-maintenance turf in tip-top shape, be sure to seed, fertilize, aerate, dethatch, and use broadleaf weed control as needed between late summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For homeowners living in the Northeast region and Northwest region, an assorted mix of Kentucky bluegrass seed and turf-type tall fescue or perennial ryegrass thrives best; available premixed and bags are typically marked “Northern mixture”
\n\n\n\nRather than a single grass species, fine fescue is actually an umbrella term for a variety of grass types — from creeping red fescue to Chewings fescue to hard fescue to sheep fescue — and each one grows differently, depending on the surrounding conditions. For example, hard fescue and sheep fescue grow best in full sun, while Chewings and creeping red fescue grow really well in shaded areas. Variation is also seen in color, with hues ranging from dark green to light green to blue-green, contingent on type.
\n\n\n\nUnlike Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue loves shade; sandy, rocky, and clay-based soils; is salt-tolerant, and is super low-maintenance — and eco-friendly, as its manual water needs are virtually nonexistent. Area rainfall should more than suffice, and even if a drought comes along, this grass species will be just fine; although, it may go dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nMade up of pointy, but soft, narrow blades that feel smooth to the touch, fine fescue is a barefoot-friendly lawn grass. And while it’s not a fan of heavy foot traffic (think kids and pets regularly running around and playing on it), your lawn should be totally fine for average use.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions; prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well in all regions (Northwest region, Northeast region, Central region, the Metro, Southwest Region, South Central region, and Southeast region), especially when mixed with varieties of fine fescues or with other cool-season grasses
\n\n\n\nFiner than traditional tall fescue (which doesn’t hold up as well in Minnesota winters), this grass species isn’t troubled by heavy foot traffic or drought because of its deep roots. Identified by its emerald green color and coarse texture, turf-type tall fescue is another low-maintenance option and can thrive in either full sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is available to grow bunch-style or with rhizomes and has low water and fertilization needs. Plant as a combination of various turf-type tall fescue cultivars and expect an even deeper root system with stronger drought and disease resistance. You can also blend this type with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-style growth habit or rhizomes, depending on variety
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; grows well in partial shade and full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Weekly mowing; low water and fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2 and 4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained; use fungicide to fight brown patch
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5–7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well statewide. Most cold hardy in the Southeast region.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lolium_perenne_L._Perennial_Ryegrass_-_cultivated_3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Arthur Chapman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-2.0
\n\n\n\nThere’s a semi-quick fix for those bare patches and thinning areas bringing down the aesthetic vibe of your lawn — perennial ryegrass. Quick with the germination process, this fast-growing grass, which spreads via vertical “tillers,” produces a bunch-style growth with wide blades, a dark green hue, and a glossy sheen. While you can plant it on its own, experts suggest combining it with other cool-season grasses, such as turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not the most cold-hardy or drought-resistant of the cool-season grasses, but it does boast some salt tolerance and can withstand heavy foot traffic. This sun-loving grass should be planted in well-drained, fertile soil and must receive regular watering.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements; thatch is not significant
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 1.5 and 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: One of the best grass seeds for Northwest and Northeast regions; higher quality output.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is just what it sounds like — planting seeds over grass that already exists. This is done to fill in bare and thinning spots to produce a thicker, lusher lawn. In the Metro, as well as in other regions of our state, the best time to overseed is in the fall. The lack of extreme temps this time of year will allow optimal germination for the new seeds.
Now that you know the best grass seed to use on your lawn, let’s take a look at the ones you should avoid. When it comes to warm-season grasses, including bermudagrass and Zoysia, none are a fit with Minnesota’s climate.
And while perennial ryegrass is a nice pick for these upper midwestern temps, annual ryegrass is, well, not so much. The latter does not recur like its perennial sister, so it’s usually only used as a temporary cover.
Transforming your yard from traditional lawn to prairie is another sustainable option. In this scenario, you’d use native ornamental grasses as an alternative to turfgrass. Benefits of prairie lands include diverse flora and fauna and low-maintenance landscaping. Here are a few native grasses to use:
• switchgrass
• big bluestem
• Canada wildrye
• blue grama
• prairie dropseed
• yellow-fox sedge
• bottlebrush grass
Your selection of turfgrasses, ornamental grasses, and native plants should take into account the growing conditions of your yard: Is it shade- or sun-heavy? Is the soil rich and fertile or dry and sandy? What about the hardiness zone, maintenance commitment, and types of wildlife you’d like to attract?
\n\n\n\nIf you still have absolutely no clue where to start, hit up spots like Afton State Park and Roscoe Prairie Scientific and Natural Area for inspiration. Need to hire a Minnesota lawn care pro near you to maintain the yard’s new turf? Connect with trusted pros in Minneapolis and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Minnesota Office Building / Ken Lund / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/107df/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/293e9/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/f2cbb/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/c26c2/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/67b76/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/8df11/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/98a65/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/3cc96/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking to redesign your Minnesota landscape but don’t know which grass seed to use? We’ve broken down the four best grass types for Minnesota."}}},{"node":{"id":"4f4b8aaa-1587-5eed-a6b6-34f017b9275b","slug":"best-grass-for-missouri","path":"/lawn-care/mo/best-grass-for-missouri/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Farah Nauman is a freelance writer and an accountant based in Pakistan. She spends most of her time combating the South Asian heat and being a mom to her three fluffy cats and a dozen little Aloe Veras in her house.","name":"Farah Nauman","id":"26059a96-5dc7-50a2-8fe4-f35b865ab4a8","path":"/author/farah-nauman/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6ec8e652d318d98583d29f520928b219?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"08e64923-2067-5321-ba20-42c35858c2cd","name":"Missouri","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mo/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"In the Midwestern transition zone, your Missouri lawn endures both sweltering summers and freezing winters. This makes a perfect recipe for a dull, grim lawn if your yard doesn’t have the right grass seeds to pull through the temperamental climate. In this article, we look at warm- and cool-season grass varieties that work well in […]
\n","content":"\nIn the Midwestern transition zone, your Missouri lawn endures both sweltering summers and freezing winters. This makes a perfect recipe for a dull, grim lawn if your yard doesn’t have the right grass seeds to pull through the temperamental climate.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we look at warm- and cool-season grass varieties that work well in Missouri, along with their pros and cons to help you pick the best grass for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nBefore we get to the list, here’s a quick rundown of what cool-season grasses are like:
\n\n\n\nLet’s dig into these three best cool-season grasses for your Missouri lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is excellent for a Missouri landscape. It’s developed by seed or sod and grows coarse-to-medium-textured, tall turfgrass. This grass tolerates high temperatures, heat, drought, and shade. Given proper care, tall fescue lawns can even stay green all around the year. Plus, it’s a pretty low-maintenance grass.
\n\n\n\nTall Fescue may struggle a little in hotter parts of Missouri during the summer months but survives better in the heat than all other cool-season grasses. It can grow in poor soil conditions and with little fertilization, too. Generally, tall fescue is also highly resistant to pests and diseases and grows best during the fall and spring months.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high – may need irrigation during dry summers
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 – 4 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis dark green, fine-bladed grass type will give your Missouri lawn a temporary pop of color for the winter. Perennial ryegrass is fast germinating and suppresses weeds naturally by establishing quickly.
\n\n\n\nOf all cool-season grasses, ryegrass has the highest wear tolerance, which is why it is popular for parks and golf courses. However, it is less tolerant of heat and drought compared to other species.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass develops tapered, fine-textured, shiny blades that require regular maintenance to keep a uniform look. It is considered a nurse grass, meaning it’s often mixed with other grasses to provide shade and protection to less hardy grass types, such as Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type, extends with tillers
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, look out for red thread, brown patch, and rust
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Kentucky](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass establishes a dense turf and is a popular choice for northern areas due to its winter hardiness. It has a bluish-green color and has a medium texture – not too hard, not too soft – to make a great “barefoot grass”.
\n\n\n\nBut Kentucky bluegrass is high-maintenance. It needs more water and fertilizer than any other cool-season grass type. It prefers areas with partial shade and spreads quickly by rhizomes. It is often mixed with other grass species, typically perennial ryegrass, to create a disease-resistant, tough turf that maintains a nice green appearance year-round.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low, prefers sunlight
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA quick overview of warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nHere are two warm-season grasses that do well in Missouri lawns:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most widely used grass in Southern Missouri. It’s well suited for your Missouri lawn because it is hardy, low-maintenance, and develops dense turf. Bermudagrass spreads vigorously with stolons and rhizomes and has excellent resistance to foot traffic and wear due to these woven roots.
\n\n\n\nThe dense Bermudagrass turf also naturally crowds out weeds. This grass type is fast-growing and resistant to salinity, heat, and a wide range of soil pHs. However, the rapid growth rate can become a nuisance if the grass invades gardens or flower beds.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass needs full, bright sun to thrive and regular dethatching to stay disease free. It goes brown and dormant in the winter and greens back up around early April.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Zoysiagrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Rivera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis is a cold-tolerant and thick warm-season grass that will keep your Missouri lawn green for the most part of the year. It’s a popular choice for homeowners with kids and pets because of its hardiness and impeccable foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass thrives in direct sunlight and develops a dark green color turf. This lush green color slowly fades as the temperature drops but won’t turn brown or tan. Since it develops into a dense lawn by stolons and rhizomes, Zoysia lawns are often vulnerable to thatch.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass needs frequent watering during the summer but is super easy to maintain otherwise. It tackles a good amount of foot traffic too.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nThe most commonly used grass in Missouri is turf-type tall fescue. It is drought, heat, disease, and insect resistant and does fine with moderately shaded environments too.
The optimal time to plant grass in Missouri is late August to mid-October, September being ideal. At this time, the soil is still warm but the chilly breezes help grass seeds germinate faster.
Tall fescue can maintain a deep green color all year if you care for it properly. It’s well-known for its ability to thrive in transition zones with minimal maintenance.
If you’re confused about what grass type suits your lawn, when and how to plant it, or you don’t have the time to set a lawn up by yourself, call in one of our lawn care pros to help. Our pros come equipped with all the knowledge, equipment, and expertise that you need to choose the right grass type for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Hippopx
\n","title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/107df/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/293e9/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/f2cbb/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/c26c2/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/67b76/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/8df11/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/98a65/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/3cc96/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Trying to find a grass that will survive the temperamental climate of Missouri? Here are five best grasses to liven up your Missouri lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"19a5f6c1-a45f-5bb8-9b9c-ee36037f9071","slug":"popular-outdoor-living-landscaping-projects-for-dallas-tx-homeowners","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/popular-outdoor-living-landscaping-projects-for-dallas-tx-homeowners/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"January 7th, 2019","excerpt":"As residents of Dallas, we are blessed to live in Texas for many reasons, a few of which are our long hot summers and mild shoulder seasons. Make the most of your outdoor spaces by trying a few of these popular outdoor living and landscaping projects and get ready to see the full potential of […]
\n","content":"\nAs residents of Dallas, we are blessed to live in Texas for many reasons, a few of which are our long hot summers and mild shoulder seasons. Make the most of your outdoor spaces by trying a few of these popular outdoor living and landscaping projects and get ready to see the full potential of your own backyard.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/hVBjwwqgxgQ8Hn4YdtzWxF67wYrPsXorwfnxTMRwR3fyjISFZvr2pOGMAeZGg--GZItdyC2SbDUVxssitw0FYYHEEQGhBHRc4bCRjRbVzDrf_88wPDTUCy0baw-_aQ0l54jt4jIJ\")
As all Texans know, magic happens around the family grill. By building simple countertops around your existing grill you’ll be creating more space to prepare your culinary masterpieces. Think about adding a sink as well to make outdoor clean up a breeze.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/oAQ6iCOdwK9xq_6G8-SpjylI1QeWwAeSYUgwwnlmespwHGVuqIKszlLnXKkA4Fu4RHmBggCZNO9WL18vfVf91VEnWHYUVCmuUu4Esl7RuXT81UtiJRYPQEuQ1ZIJHcvl-JfpkEem\")
All that grilling and BBQing is hard work and sure to serve up a thirst in the most skilled grill master. Why not consider adding a special place for storing cool drinks into you grill station countertop system. A mini fridge stocked with cold refreshments will save the day, or at least save you too many trips back into the house!
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/2Mghjh1cb-EKrxxg4jgy2_I7Ta724dZuMp4AhrC07W9aFd89oIWPwNiB58R--C4b0JeJaaUi6AscTLgrEOGWBIz26D1E29QgzD0jZq0a-qt1eQ9T69yX85b7j-RnrauowrQYEBja\")
Sometimes starting the day off with a good cup of coffee in peace and quiet of nature is all it takes to set you up for success. Consider finding a quiet corner or tucked away spot in your yard; one that gets lots of morning sunshine to use as a place for practicing your morning ritual, whatever that might be. Create a simple path using hardwood mulch, decomposed granite, or irregular flagstone leading to your sitting area for easy access. Pick your favorite style of outdoor furniture and a stylish cushion with a small bistro table and you’ll be ready to take on whatever the day may bring.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q01VrSkGHiaqkcyWO-0rbmhm6mU_UuDP7FoRxJ-HNohPa-74Am55Qvj1ay_CPQf437pM5mda-IrkwR2yproOb2WPR6K9OQJ5VdIfUEURwF3ffigWzTd9xWHWUZlpBXyx1cD-1Npw\")
Extend your outdoor use by adding shade canopies to your back patio or deck. These can be as simple as a prefabricated, modular system such as those free-standing shade awnings found at most home improvement stores, or a more elaborate structure built directly off your building’s exterior walls. Just be sure to check with your local city codes for any permits you might be required to obtain before building!
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Y9OoFOy2vl0_J2RLcRXLOQo76I0Jyh-FZaL_9yUZoNpUAUPFWegNchYQJPMJHuz1VQ4um7-xIqLVBLxMSIFjhjIBvfaoxzMxwHpKP-grEzoHmgR4ZvpZy7HYiGqKhTeeY6kBkX8W\")
Add a nighttime focal point to your landscape by creating a safe area for a fire pit or tall chimenea. Start by checking your local codes and ordinances for rules or requirements related to outdoor fire pits or open flame to make sure they are allowed where you live. No matter your local laws, all fire pits should be at a minimum 10 feet from all structures, 25 feet is preferable and always keep a fire extinguisher nearby in case of accidents.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fCeSOXwRroQHejFhY-ihx186ckbBL-_09kCguUxyQ2g4_1RLeh5hl9ohNmbJuo2-XZc5WebOtpW7F2sMGRhoR4KW7-N5U4Yk2w7D6UQIzbRJa7Y29bnpUvRc2zFaZX9XThVUqj-g\")
Make your outdoor living space and landscape a fun experience for people of all ages. Do this by planting species that are both educational as well as beautiful. Children love being able to touch, smell, and pick plants from the garden. Create a designated area for your little ones to be able to explore nature in their own backyard. Plants like Lambs Ears are soft and fuzzy, Balloon Flower creates interesting shaped petals and seed pods, and a row of culinary herbs smells and tastes amazing while providing the added benefit of enhancing your culinary adventures.
\n\n\n\nChoose any one from this list to take your outdoor space to the next level and maximize its potential by adding a few simple features to keep friends and family entertained all year long!
Looking for more landscaping or lawn care tips? Visit our Dallas lawn care guide for more information!
Los Angeles is a vibrant city with stunning beaches and a moderate climate, but rainfall can be a little iffy. So if you’re looking to create a lush green lawn that can withstand the heat and dry conditions of the region, it’s important to know the best grass types for the City of Angels. In […]
\n","content":"\nLos Angeles is a vibrant city with stunning beaches and a moderate climate, but rainfall can be a little iffy. So if you’re looking to create a lush green lawn that can withstand the heat and dry conditions of the region, it’s important to know the best grass types for the City of Angels.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nAll grasses are classified into one of these two categories:
\n\n\n\nLos Angeles is warm throughout the year, with sunny summers and mild winters. Because of this, cold-season grasses typically don’t do well in Los Angeles. Warm-season grasses obviously handle high temperatures and drought better.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a closer look at some of the best warm-season grass types for Los Angeles below.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bentgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nLos Angeles’ warm climate is a breeze for native California bentgrass. This grass stays a deep green color whether it’s in the sun or in the shade. It tolerates drought as well as moderate moisture.
\n\n\n\nThe grass is low-maintenance; you can let it grow and form a meadow or cut it as you wish. However, be careful not to cut it very short after leaving it long because this can shock this grass. Its medium texture and uniform growth habit make it a perfect addition to any LA lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe downside of this grass is that it takes a long time to grow. It’s available as sod, but because the grass grows slowly, sod is more expensive than alternatives.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Medium; full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; but mowing must be consistent or the grass must be left to grow freely; also takes a long time to grow
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Up to you; naturally grows up to 4 to 28 inches; mow consistently to avoid scalping; in any case, never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mow
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sand-Dune-Sedge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tortie tude / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYou may have seen this shade- and drought-tolerant perennial grass on your local beach, but did you know that it can also grow on your lawn? Sand dune sedge tolerates various soil types and is low-maintenance. You can grow it long or mow it regularly to keep it short and tidy.
\n\n\n\nThe unique texture and color of the sand dune sedge makes it a fantastic addition to your landscape design. But keep in mind that it grows in clumps, so it’s not the best option for a uniform, carpet-like lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Up to you; naturally grows up to 0.7 to 1.3 ft tall; never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mow
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass, also called wiregrass, is a dense, low-maintenance grass that grows in various soil conditions and thrives in hot, sunny climates. Its colors normally range from light to dark green. It doesn’t need much water, grows in most soil conditions, and can handle drought well. All these advantages make this grass a desirable choice for many LA homeowners.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, Bermudagrass is perfect for high-traffic areas because it tolerates wear and tear. In fact, it spreads so rapidly that it needs to be mowed frequently and can be invasive if not properly contained.
\n\n\n\nThere are different types of Bermudagrass, from the low-maintenance common Bermudagrass to the high-maintenance hybrid Bermudagrass with a fine texture. Be sure to choose a type that works for you and meets your expectations and preferences.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes (rapidly)
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High, but may turn brown and dormant in an extended drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; grows back quickly after suffering damage
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; some varieties are more shade-tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; needs mowing once or twice per week and is susceptible to many pest and disease problems
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/UC-Verde-Buffalograss-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCalifornia buffalograss, formerly known as UC Verde, is a cultivar of native buffalograss that’s better suited for use in California. This grass is drought-tolerant and dense. It’s a low-maintenance option that requires less water than some of the other grass types. Moreover, it needs little to no chemical treatment and produces less pollen.
\n\n\n\nYou can let your California buffalograss grow freely for a meadow-like look or mow it regularly for a more traditional lawn appearance. In any case, this bright green grass is soft to the touch and tolerates moderate foot traffic, making it an excellent option for your lawn during the summer.
\n\n\n\nOne thing about the California buffalograss: It gets weedy until it’s well-established. Installing sod may be easier. Once established, however, California buffalograss resists weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St-Augustine-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nIf you just can’t wait to see your new grass, St. Augistinegrass may be a fitting choice for you. This grass germinates quickly, making it ideal for those who want to see results quickly. It’s a blue-green grass with a coarse texture and medium density. Unlike some other warm-season grass types, St. Augustinegrass does well in partial shade.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, St. Augustinegrass doesn’t withstand drought, heavy foot traffic, and other stresses as well as other grass types. So if you choose it, make sure to provide it with adequate water and care and avoid excessive wear.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low; requires regular watering during dry periods to stay healthy
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; some cultivars are more shade-tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High; requires regular irrigation and fertilization to grow healthy
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 3.5 to 4 inches for standard cultivars; 2 to 2.5 inches for dwarf cultivars
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nA number of homeowners favor zoysiagrass for its dense, carpet-like appearance and its ability to handle drought and thrive in various soils. This grass also withstands foot traffic quite well, making it suitable for busy lawns.
\n\n\n\nHowever, this grass is known for its high maintenance needs, too. It needs regular fertilization and supplemental watering to thrive. It may also need pesticides because it is vulnerable to certain pests.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, because zoysiagrass is so dense, thatch builds up rapidly and must be removed frequently. The grass takes a while to grow, which might make sod a better option, but it’s also more expensive.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low; requires supplemental watering, especially during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; dense growth resists damage, and spreading through stolons and rhizomes allows for quick recovery
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Higher maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Depends on the species and cultivar; ranges from 0.25 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nIt depends on a variety of factors, such as your grass species and soil type. So, make sure that you research the specific needs of your lawn. In general, the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources says that grass should be watered about once or twice a week.
If you want a low-maintenance lawn in Los Angeles, your options are narrowed down to three grass types:
● Sand dune sedge grows in clumps and won’t look like a traditional lawn, but it doesn’t need much water or mowing
● California buffalograss was developed specifically for California, and you can keep it as long or as short as you like, but it might be a challenge to keep it weed-free before it establishes
● California bentgrass is easy to take care of, too; you can either let it grow freely or mow it, but if you prefer the latter, you’ll need to mow it continually to avoid scalping; it also takes longer to grow and its sod is more expensive than alternatives
If you have a busy lawn, there are grasses that can withstand foot traffic and grow back quickly after damage. The best Los Angeles grass types for a lot of foot traffic are:
● Native California bentgrass
● Bermudagrass
● Zoysiagrass
If you like a bit of shade on your lawn, the best grass types for a shady Los Angeles lawn are:
● Native California bentgrass
● Zoysiagrass
● Some varieties of St. Augustinegrass
● A few varieties of Bermudagrass
If you have pets, it’s recommended that you choose a grass type that’s pet-friendly. You can choose between these two warm-season types of grass:
Bermudagrass: is low-maintenance; tolerates a variety of conditions and wear and tear; spreads so quickly that it can become invasive; has a high drought tolerance; but can’t handle shade
Zoysiagrass: its dense growth discourages digging; it can spread dead patches from pet urine; it’s tolerant of shade and various kinds of soil; however, it also has a low drought tolerance and is high-maintenance
Although both of these grass types may be suitable for pets, they have different advantages and disadvantages. It’s important to consider your specific needs and the conditions of your lawn before you decide which grass to get.
Establishing a new lawn is an exciting experience, but you want to make sure that you’re choosing the right grass type. To sum it up, there are various kinds of grasses suitable for Los Angeles. The right choice depends on factors such as:
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, it’s important to consider other elements of your yard. If you, for instance, want to plant shrubs or flowers, you should research the best native plants for Los Angeles that will thrive in your specific climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then need to provide your Los Angeles lawn with adequate care throughout the year. This includes, but is not limited to, grass aeration, fertilizing, overseeding, watering, and more. Correct lawn maintenance is needed to help it stay green and lush, so make sure you research all the necessary steps.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d like a pro to take care of your lawn for you, you can get quotes from WikiLawn’s Los Angeles lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Jeff_Hu / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\n
Western Carolina has ample natural beauty. Its mountains, high elevation, and variety of plant life set it apart from the rest of the Carolinas, so it’s essential that you know how to care for your yard in this unique climate.
Adding turf grass, plants, and various other features to your property can be daunting at first. But don’t worry; there are plenty of tips and tricks to not only make your Western Carolina landscape beautiful but also easier to care for.
\n\n\n\nHere are 11 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Western Carolina.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Highbush_blueberries.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ryjial Christianson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThere are a lot of native plants in Western Carolina that do well in the local climate and soil. This makes them easier to care for. In addition, native plants provide important habitat and food sources for wildlife, making them an eco-friendly choice for landscaping.
\n\n\n\nBecause the variety of Western Carolina’s natives is so vast, make sure that you research which plants are best suited to your needs and preferences. Consider factors like sunlight needs, maintenance needs, potential hazards, and so forth.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nSome plants native to Western Carolina:
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather plant a tree, consider:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The price of your plants depends on their type and size. A new flower bed costs $1,000 to $3,000, and a new shrub costs $25 to $60 per plant, although large shrubs can cost up to $350. Tree prices typically range between $150 and $1,850 per tree but can cost as much as $3,335.
\n\n\n\nWildflowers grow in poor soil without any surplus irrigation or fertilizer. Just think about how much work you can save by letting these plants do their own thing and thrive. Plus, reducing your chemical usage is good for wildlife and the environment.
\n\n\n\nA wildflower meadow can grow within 2 to 3 years. It can also attract pollinators and birds to your yard.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of wildflowers:
\n\n\n\nExamples of wildflowers:
\n\n\n\nCost: Wildflower seed mixes (mixes of wildflowers and healthy native grasses) cost $60 to $80 per 1,000 square feet. Their professional installation runs $750 to $2,500 for a typical quarter-acre lawn, depending on the preparation needed.
\n\n\n\nFresh herbs enhance food flavor and often have various health benefits, and many of them are a good fit for your Western Carolina garden. And although most herbs aren’t native to Western Carolina, they’re popular; the largest herb festival in the U.S. is actually held in Asheville.
\n\n\n\nHerbs are often native to Mediterranean regions, so they may be able to resist heat and drought. However, make sure that you check the plant’s cold hardiness to be sure it also withstands cold weather.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of herbs:
\n\n\n\nExamples of cold-hardy herbs:
\n\n\n\nCost: Most small potted herbs cost $3 to $15 per plant. If you want to grow herbs from seed, a packet of seeds costs $1 to $3, and a herb garden starter kit ranges from $20 to $45.
\n\n\n\n![\"Turk’s-cap](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Turks-cap-Lily.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shenandoah National Park / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to replace your flowers every year, consider perennials. These plants come back year after year, making them a great investment for any garden. With proper care, they can provide beautiful blooms for many seasons to come.
\n\n\n\nTrue, annuals typically have more vibrant, longer-lasting blossoms, so the best thing to do is to mix perennials and annuals in your garden. Be sure to research various plants and their characteristics to better understand which ones are right for you.
\n\n\n\nBenefits of perennial plants:
\n\n\n\nExamples of perennial plants for Western North Carolina:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost varies based on the type and size. To give you some approximate figures, plants usually cost $2.50 to $60 per plant, if you plant them yourself, but some plants can cost up to $100. Shrubs typically cost between $25 and $60 per shrub. Large shrubs may cost up to $350. Trees usually cost between $150 and $1,850 per tree, but some trees can cost up to $3,335.
\n\n\n\nJust because most trees and plants go to sleep during the winter doesn’t mean all of yours have to. You can keep your yard vibrant during the colder months by planting evergreens and “winter interest” plants.
\n\n\n\nEvergreen trees’ and “winter interest” plants’ lasting foliage isn’t their only advantage. They have numerous other benefits as well, which makes them a great option for your low-maintenance Western Carolina yard. There are various evergreen and “winter interest” plants out there, so make sure you look into which ones can work for you for your local climate.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of evergreens and “winter interest” plants:
\n\n\n\nIn addition, evergreens also have the following advantages:
\n\n\n\nExamples of “winter interest” plants:
\n\n\n\nEvergreen trees that thrive in Western Carolina:
\n\n\n\nCost: Prices range from $20 to $3,335, depending on the plant’s size, species, and maturity. Small flowering winter interest plants range from $20 to $35; a new shrub costs $25 to $60 per shrub (although large shrubs can cost up to $350); and small trees range from $100 to $600. Larger trees usually cost between $150 and $1,850 per tree, but some can cost up to $3,335 per tree.
\n\n\n\nTaking care of your turf can be a lot of work. If you want an easy-care alternative that gives the same dense, green appeal, why not try ground covers instead? Ground covers are low-growing plants that spread quickly and cover large areas of ground, reducing the need for mowing, overseeding and watering.
\n\n\n\nAs with any other plant, make sure that the ground cover you choose fits your needs and preferences. You should make sure it matches your hardiness zone, and that you know all about its characteristics, such as shade tolerance and potential hazards.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of ground covers:
\n\n\n\nExamples of ground covers include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of ground covers ranges from $10 to $25 per square foot without installation.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhile you can use ground covers to give your lawn a similar appeal, they can’t quite replace the natural look and feel of grass. But not all grass types are the same.
\n\n\n\nLow-maintenance grass types can help you save time and money on watering, mowing, and other lawn care. So make sure you do your research to find the one that’s right for you. You can start by checking out our recommended grass types for Asheville.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of a low-maintenance grass type:
\n\n\n\nExamples of low-maintenance grass types:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional grass removal typically costs $1.50 per square foot. Professional lawn seeding typically costs between $0.10 and $0.19 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to keep your plants healthy with minimal effort, you should try mulching. Mulching is an easy and cost-effective way to retain moisture in your plants and protect them from damaging temperatures. It also prevents weeds and improves soil quality.
\n\n\n\nYou can pick between organic and inorganic mulch. As the name suggests, organic mulch is made from natural materials. It decomposes over time and releases nutrients into the soil. On the other hand, inorganic mulch doesn’t provide nutrients for your soil, but you don’t need to worry about it decomposing and replacing it as often as organic mulch.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch needs to be regularly replaced, but it has other advantages:
\n\n\n\nExamples of organic mulch:
\n\n\n\nExamples of inorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Mulching typically costs around $85 per cubic yard. A cubic yard will cover about 100 square feet at three inches deep.
\n\n\n\nIsn’t it a shame for rainwater to go to waste? We think so. If you agree, consider building a rain garden. Rain gardens are essentially basin-formed gardens designed to collect and absorb rainwater, allowing it to filter into the ground instead of running off into storm drains and contributing to water pollution.
\n\n\n\nCaptured rainwater can be used to irrigate your garden or even reduce the amount of runoff that enters local waterways. Plus, rain gardens can be beautiful additions to your landscape, providing habitat for wildlife and reducing erosion.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of rain gardens:
\n\n\n\nWhat you can put in your rain garden:
\n\n\n\nCost: Installing a rain garden yourself costs between $3 to $5 per square foot, depending on the type of plants and materials you use. A typical rain garden is 150 to 400 square feet, so expect to pay between $450 and $2,000. Professional installation ranges from $10 and $15 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"plants](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Xeriscaping-garden.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeremy Levine / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping is another landscaping technique that’s used to save water. Not only can it create a low-maintenance and sustainable garden, but it can also reduce water bills and help conserve natural resources.
\n\n\n\nIf xeriscaping your entire yard feels overwhelming, you can start little by little. You can then gradually convert more areas of your yard to xeriscaping, such as by replacing thirsty plants with drought-resistant ones or installing a drip irrigation system.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nWays you can start xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There are various xeriscaping methods, which vary in cost. On average, xeriscaping may cost between $5 and $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a beautiful landscape, it’s going to be hard to create one without greenery. But on the other hand, that doesn’t mean there’s no room for functional hardscapes, too. To reduce some of your lawn and garden maintenance tasks and make your outdoor space easier to take care of, hardscapes are a great idea.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, hardscaping features can also add value to your home with their aesthetic appeal, and give you a practical place to spend time with loved ones.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nExamples of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There are various hardscaping projects, so it depends on which ones you choose. But you can expect to pay $2,200 to $6,500 for a patio; $3,900 to $10,500 for a deck; $2,100 to $6,000 for a pergola; $1,100 to $7,500 for a water feature; $250 to $2,200 for a fire pit; $60 to $170 per ton for river rocks; and between $3 and $30 per square foot for stone pavers, depending on the type of stone.
\n\n\n\nThe thought of maintaining a beautiful outdoor space can be intimidating. However, you can create an aesthetic outdoor space that’s easier to care for than you’d think.
\n\n\n\nStart by getting some native wildflowers or evergreens and then continue adding low-maintenance features to your landscape over time. When picking plants, make sure you learn about their needs and see which ones are a good fit. Don’t forget to research their important characteristics, such as their shade tolerance, potential hazards, and so forth.
\n\n\n\nAs you already know, no lawn can be completely maintenance-free. If you want help checking off your to-do list tasks, call a lawn care pro in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Joe Wolf / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"11 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Western Carolina","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1789c/lawn-in-asheville.jpg","srcSet":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/107df/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 320w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/293e9/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 500w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/f2cbb/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 800w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1789c/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 960w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/c26c2/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1dd6e/lawn-in-asheville.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/67b76/lawn-in-asheville.webp 320w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/8df11/lawn-in-asheville.webp 500w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/98a65/lawn-in-asheville.webp 800w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1dd6e/lawn-in-asheville.webp 960w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/3cc96/lawn-in-asheville.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Western Carolina | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Reflect natural beauty in your own yard without being overwhelmed by the maintenance with these low-maintenance landscaping tips for Western Carolina."}}},{"node":{"id":"65aabcca-7a82-595c-b66f-c536fd8db4d6","slug":"how-to-lay-sod","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-lay-sod/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"March 21st, 2021","excerpt":"Homeowners frequently turn to sod for a quick lawn makeover, but is this a project you can DIY? Absolutely. This article will detail how you can transform your lawn into a lush, green carpet in five easy steps. 1. Prep for Your Sod Project Get a soil test A few weeks before you plan to […]
\n","content":"\nHomeowners frequently turn to sod for a quick lawn makeover, but is this a project you can DIY? Absolutely. This article will detail how you can transform your lawn into a lush, green carpet in five easy steps.
\n\n\n\nA few weeks before you plan to lay the sod, get a soil test. You can get an at-home soil test kit or take a sample to your local Cooperative Extension office. Allow a few weeks for processing if you use your Extension service.
\n\n\n\nHere’s why soil testing is a must before installing sod: Your sod needs a good soil structure for drainage and root development in addition to a balance of nutrients. A good soil test will determine your soil’s pH as well.
\n\n\n\n![\"Measuring](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_messradsuricata.jpg\")
Use a measuring tape, measuring wheel, or count your paces to determine how many square feet you’ll need to sod.
\n\n\n\nThere is no industry standard for how many square feet of grass fit on a pallet. It varies from about 400 to 700 square feet, depending on the cut. Sod comes in rectangles (16” x 24”), mini rolls (40” x 18”), or large rolls (60” x 24” or 80” x 18”).
\n\n\n\nContact a local supplier or garden center to work out the details of your sod shipment. Experts recommend laying new sod within 24-48 hours after it has been dug up from the sod farm. Some experts recommend laying it within 24 hours or less. Ask your supplier company what they recommend.
\n\n\n\nGot shade? Ask your sod company for advice before you buy. Sod is generally grown in full sun and does not always perform well in partial shade.
\n\n\n\nDIY enthusiasts should allow two weekends for the sod job — one to do the site work and another to put down the sod. If you have a few friends, the job may take less time.
\n\n\n\nIn any case, choose a schedule that works for you, and be sure to gather your equipment ahead of time. Tools, equipment, and supplies you may need include:
\n\n\n\n✓ Sod cutter
✓ Rototiller
✓ Garden rake (bow rake)
✓ Garden hose or sprinkler
✓ Compost, sand, lime, and starter fertilizer, depending on your lawn’s needs
✓ Retractable utility knife (razor knife, or any sharp knife)
✓ Personal protective equipment:
If you need to rent a sod cutter or rototiller, reserve one ahead of time from your local tool rental or home improvement store.
\n\n\n\nFinally, don’t forget to check the weather forecast. You’ll want nice weather while you work.
\n\n\n\nBeg, borrow, or rent a sod cutter to remove your existing grass. If you have a small area to re-sod, you can use a shovel or hand-held sod cutter. (This is where those friends come in handy.)
\n\n\n\nAfter you have removed the existing lawn, use a rototiller to till down 6 to 8 inches. This will give your sod a nice, loose soil so it can easily put down deep roots.
\n\n\n\nDepending on the results of your soil test, add 1 to 2 inches of organic matter as a soil amendment. Compost helps the soil structure and adds nutrients, and sand is used to help with drainage if the soil is too dense.
\n\n\n\nSpread this organic matter throughout the lawn. Rototill in the new organic matter, then level it out with a lawn rake, correcting high and low spots.
\n\n\n\nAlso, make sure your grade is always sloping away from buildings.
\n\n\n\nAdd lime, if needed, and put down starter fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nFinally, lightly water the soil so it is damp.
\n\n\n\nThe day has arrived! Choose the longest straight edge in the yard as your starting point. From there, you’ll lay the sod like you mop a floor: Start at the farthest edge and work your way out. This ensures you don’t walk on the sod as you are working.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you are working on a slope, lay the grass across the slope in a horizontal manner instead of down the slope vertically. Use sod staples or biodegradable sod stakes to hold everything in place.
\n\n\n\nFirst Row: Lay down each roll, making sure you are abutting the grass tightly against the fence, wall, boundary line, etc. Make sure you press down the grass with your hands to ensure good contact with the soil (don’t walk on it). This will reduce the chance of air pockets between sod and soil.
\n\n\n![\"Fresh](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/3471068661_c3bc73ede6_w.jpg\")
Second Row: Cut the first roll of sod in half. This will ensure your joints are staggered. Think of laying the rows as if you were laying bricks — you want to stagger the seams.
\n\n\n\nAs you lay down each strip of sod, make sure to press the side seams together with your hands (don’t overlap). This will help the grass to look seamless and will prevent the sod from drying out.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: When you need to cut a piece of sod, cut from the underside — not the grass side. This allows for an easier, cleaner cut.
\n\n\n\nContinue until the yard is complete.
\n\n\n\nUse topsoil to fill in any gaps in the seams, and roll the sod with a lawn roller. (Ask your sod supplier what they recommend. Some roll the lawn; some don’t.)
\n\n\n\nWatering recommendations for new sod can vary. Ask your sod supplier or a local pro what they recommend for your grass type and the time of year.
\n\n\n\nCommon advice looks something like this:
\n\n\n\nSome pros recommend watering to a depth of 3 to 4 inches while others recommend a depth of 6 to 8 inches, at least to begin with. (Use a soil probe.) Ask your sod company to determine what is best for your sod. Program your irrigation system to water at the recommended rate. Make sure your sprinkler heads are set to cover all areas of the new lawn.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn with more starter fertilizer about one month after you have put down the turf. Continue on a regular fertilizing schedule going forward.
\n\n\n\nWait at least three weeks to mow. You can ask the sod company how long your particular variety of sod takes to reach mowing height.
\n\n\n\nIn general, use a walk-behind mower (sharp blade, please!) for the first mow. Don’t cut off more than one-third of the grass, and bag the clippings just this once.
\n\n\n\nYou can compost it. Yes, put it in the compost pile with other yard and food waste to create new soil for your lawn or ornamental beds.
\n\n\n\nSod experts recommend staying off the grass for three to four weeks, which is around the time of the first mowing. Ask your sod company how long they recommend to keep off your new grass.
\n\n\n\nSome say to put a garden hose around the curve and cut it with a utility knife. Others find it easier to put the straight edges of the sod against the straight edges of the flower bed and cut a seam along the curve, removing the excess.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod is a year-round business. Having said that, there are great and not-so-great times depending on your climate and grass type.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are best sodded in the fall, while warm-season grasses are best sodded in early summer. If these times of the year don’t work for you, contact your local sod supplier or Cooperative Extension agent for advice.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re interested in new sod, you’re looking for a fast solution to your lawn woes. Laying new sod isn’t rocket science; in fact, it’s a perfect job for a novice DIYer. However, the devil is in the details. Do your homework, and follow these five easy steps to ensure your thick, green carpet lasts for years to come.
\n\n\n\nAnd if you would rather a pro install your sod, we can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: george kiwi / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How to Lay Sod in 5 Easy Steps","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/1789c/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg","srcSet":"/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/107df/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg 320w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/293e9/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg 500w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/f2cbb/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg 800w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/1789c/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg 960w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/c26c2/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/1dd6e/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/67b76/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp 320w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/8df11/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp 500w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/98a65/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp 800w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/1dd6e/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp 960w,\n/static/43f7f41b51a65c7e65195c5f591e8fe2/3cc96/rsz_4982403097_1d3b47d467_o.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Lay Sod in 5 Easy Steps | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"36ce7c7b-d94e-58a3-a1f6-1eab325ec71f","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro","path":"/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/fall-lawn-care-checklist-murfreesboro/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"27e940f6-30a2-50ad-939d-b73973245b23","name":"Murfreesboro","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Pumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care […]
\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care begins in the fall, and September is a crucial month for fertilizer. Follow our fall lawn care checklist to maintain your lawn and prepare it for the winter playoff season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nResidents love Tennessee’s mild autumns. The southern state is in the transition zone, and both warm and cool-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Proper fall lawn care from September through November sets the foundation for your landscape during the winter months and spring green-up. Proper maintenance during these cool transition months helps your lawn grow deeper, stronger roots.
\n\n\n\nFall lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s mild fall gives way to a short, cold, and wet winter, causing some cool-season grass cultivars and most warm-season grass cultivars to go dormant, developing thatch. Thatch is the tight, intermingled layer of dead grass, living grass blades, and roots that accumulate above soil level but below eye line visibility. Thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Watch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately to avoid suffocating your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to identify your grass variety. Tennessee cool-season grass cultivars like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass actively grow in the fall and early spring. Warm-season varieties such as bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass hit their green-up phase in late spring and summer. Dethatch your cool-season lawn in early fall and save your warm-season cultivar dethatching session for spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. Aeration is a common method to introduce this element back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of common aeration: core aeration and spike aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass and mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators extract cores of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover cores of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, reducing compaction, increasing air exchange, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators poke small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nEarly fall is one of the best times to test your soil to ensure it has all the nutrients it needs to thrive. Middle Tennessee is home to many soil types and some are nutrient deficient. It is important to understand exactly what nutrients your grass is lacking. Murfreesboro homeowners should send in a soil sample for testing in September.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a one-cup core sample to receive your results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications and lime for soil pH imbalances.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/green-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nLate summer and early fall are the best times to seed your cool-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while spring is the best time to seed warm-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are cool-season cultivars that respond well to fall overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your cool-season Tennessee lawn in late August or early September. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your turfgrass cultivar, a fall fertilizer application promotes deep roots and sets your grass up for success during its fall green-up or winter dormancy period. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape, so it is important to start with a soil test. The best time to apply fertilizer depends on your turfgrass cultivar, while the best type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize cool-season grass cultivars like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass as they hit their active growing season. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn on Sept. 1, Oct. 15, and Nov. 15 to improve root depth and turf density. Be sure to select a fertilizer that satisfies your soil test results with the proper N-P-K ratio.
\n\n\n\nA fall fertilizer application helps warm-season turfgrasses like centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass resist winter weeds and improves turf color and spring recovery rates. Fertilize your warm-season lawn with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn around Sept. 1. Pay attention to the potassium and phosphorus needs on your soil test results and select a low-nitrogen, high-potassium or phosphorus blend, if needed.
\n\n\n\nLime is a fall soil amendment like fertilizer composed of limestone rock ground into powder. It contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The addition of lime to your turfgrass increases nutrients and soil alkalinity, spreading beneficial bacteria. The ideal pH for your soil depends on the type of turfgrass in your landscape. Apply lime in September, October, or November if your soil test recommends it.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Fine Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 6.0 – 7.0 |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Tall Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nThe `Boro’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the fall. The city’s autumns are warm with a 49% chance of cloud cover and give way to short, wet, and cold winters. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, it is tempting to mow your lawn short and make less work for yourself, but most grass types benefit from longer grass blades in the fall. Cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury, weeds, and cold stress. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots, setting your lawn up for winter success and a better spring green-up.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass benefit from higher mowing heights in the fall to increase insulation and encourage deeper roots before winter.
\n\n\n\nRaise the height of your cut by a half inch in mid-September. Continue mowing through fall until the first frost. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in the fall, and never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow every seven to 14 days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn. Always aim to cut less, more often.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their active growth phase in the early fall after summer dormancy
\n\n\n\nMow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during fall. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
No matter what variety of turfgrass your lawn has, Murfreesboro lawns seldom need daily irrigating in the fall unless it is brand new. Water as needed early in the morning throughout fall. Winters in the `Boro are usually wet, providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all Tennessee turfgrass varieties twice per week if it hasn’t rained, aiming for a half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYour best defense against lawn disease is routine maintenance, including watering, fertilization, and proper mowing heights. Tennessee’s mild fall temperatures and subtropical climate create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi, including large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, rust, nematodes, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that appears as brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. This disease affects bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue. It does not respond well to fungicides. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is caused by a Tennessee soil-dwelling fungus that thrives in the warm, moist weather of spring and fall. It affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nFairy rings, caused by mushroom or puffball-producing fungi, affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. Be on the lookout for an arc or ring of dead grass surrounded by healthy grass. Many infections also produce mushrooms or puffballs around the ring.
\n\n\n\nLike large patch, fairy rings do not respond well to fungicides. Till or remove the soil around the affected area and reseed for severe infestations. For mild infestations, remove thatch, aerate, and perform routine maintenance, ensuring proper irrigation.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during cool, moist fall weather, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. These unsegmented roundworms need moisture to survive, and populations peak in the fall. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Spores germinate through moisture and dew, and active infections pop up throughout spring into fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf.
\n\n\n\nTreat rust using a fungicide, and prevent this Tennessee turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions to minimize leaf moisture.
\n\n\n\nStripe smut is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It is a serious fall disease causing stunted root growth, stiff and erect leaf blades, and a yellow and brown appearance.
\n\n\n\nOnce an outbreak occurs, smut fungus grows rapidly in fall temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Treat the turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance, including infrequent but deep waterings and proper fertilization. Fungicide applications can help reduce active infections.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWeeds love Murfreesboro’s subtropical climate. These pests signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health, including low-nitrogen levels, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds siphon vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and spread pests and diseases. Two common methods of weed control include post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nAll cool-season Tennessee turfgrasses, including tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass benefit from a fall application of pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination. Additionally, both Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass benefit from a September pre-emergent herbicide application to control annual bluegrass, a common Tennessee weed.
\n\n\n\nWhile these herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds, they will help control the emergence of new winter annual and perennial broadleaf and grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter grassy weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth of winter broadleaf weeds that become a nuisance during Murfreesboro falls. Always apply the herbicide directly to the active weed. Wait 30 days between applications, and never apply more than two applications per year.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter broadleaf weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nLocations with four seasons like Murfreesboro attract many homeowners with promises of warm summers, changing fall foliage, and a chance for a white Christmas. Watching leaves change from green to autumn gold, bronze, and red is something to look forward to as you sip your pumpkin spice latte and gear up for Friday night football. Unfortunately, the colorful leaves drop to the ground, creating a fluffy and crunchy layer over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nLeaves block out the sun, trap moisture, reduce airflow, and lead to dead spots of turfgrass. They increase pest problems and spread disease, so be sure to remove them as soon as possible. Wait until the leaves are dry to rake and prepare to rake your lawn before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the leaves and layer of thatch left behind. It does not matter if you rake as your leaves fall or wait until all the leaves in your yard have fallen.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners can stop mowing their warm-season Murfreesboro lawns in mid-October. These cultivars include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Homeowners with cool-season varieties, including Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue, can typically stop mowing after the first frost in early December.
Warm-season turf gasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass will go dormant during the end of fall and the beginning of winter. These cultivars dry out and turn brown.
The best way to determine if your grass is dormant is by pulling on it. If the grass comes out of the ground easily, it is likely dead. However, if there is resistance from deep roots when you pull on your grass, it is dormant.
No. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients. It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Tennessee turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass.
Mild fall weather creates a prime environment for routine yard work that will set your lawn up to take on the wet, cold Tennessee winter and prepare it for a better green-up in the spring. Be sure to check out our spring lawn care tips to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and would rather watch football or hit the trails, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your lawn establish deep roots so it can survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tarpely Farm-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.606425702811245,"src":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/107df/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/293e9/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/f2cbb/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/c26c2/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/67b76/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/8df11/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/98a65/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/3cc96/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 11 valuable tips for maintaining a fall lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the cold Tennessee winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"4ee1f51e-80fa-5d99-bef5-c69d1fdd836c","slug":"best-grass-for-north-georgia","path":"/lawn-care/ga/best-grass-for-north-georgia/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Farah Nauman is a freelance writer and an accountant based in Pakistan. She spends most of her time combating the South Asian heat and being a mom to her three fluffy cats and a dozen little Aloe Veras in her house.","name":"Farah Nauman","id":"26059a96-5dc7-50a2-8fe4-f35b865ab4a8","path":"/author/farah-nauman/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6ec8e652d318d98583d29f520928b219?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"e4b1764d-a5cd-56e1-942a-7fc609f1b8e9","name":"Georgia","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ga/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 8th, 2023","excerpt":"North Georgia enjoys all four seasons to the fullest. This diversity is super, but it can also disrupt a lawn’s appearance and health as the weather changes. The secret to a problem-free and attractive lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area. Luckily, both warm-season and cool-season grasses do well in […]
\n","content":"\nNorth Georgia enjoys all four seasons to the fullest. This diversity is super, but it can also disrupt a lawn’s appearance and health as the weather changes.
\n\n\n\nThe secret to a problem-free and attractive lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area. Luckily, both warm-season and cool-season grasses do well in mountainous North Georgia. But these seven grasses really thrive in North Georgia and can provide the luscious, evergreen yard you want
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nBefore we get to the details, here’s a quick overview of warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nHere are four warm-season grasses best suited for your Georgia yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass is popular in Georgia because of its hardiness. It develops a dense, low-maintenance turf that won’t need much watering during the hot summer months. The density comes from its underground woven rhizome and stolons and translates into excellent foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nTightly packed Bermudagrass blades also naturally crowd out weeds. Bermudagrass is fast-growing, drought-tolerant, and resists salinity and heat. It also does well in a wide range of soil pHs. Rapid growth rate also helps this grass type to recover quickly from wear and traffic damage.
\n\n\n\nThe only downside of Bermudagrass is that it needs a full, bright sun to thrive. Plus, the dense turf needs regular dethatching to stay disease free. It goes brown and dormant in the winter and greens up around early April in North Georgia. The growing season may vary at different elevations.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 to 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis is a resilient, cold-tolerant, and dense warm-season turf that will give your lawn all hues of green around the year. It is popular among homeowners with pets and kids due to its sturdiness and impressive foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass blades establish a dark green color that slowly fades as the temperature drops. It thrives in direct sunlight but won’t mind some shade too. Its improved cold tolerance is quite fitting for North Georgia.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it’s a dense grass, it won’t need as much mowing as other warm-season grasses. But you need to detach regularly.
\n\n\n\nDespite being a drought-tolerant perennial species, Zoysiagrass needs frequent watering during the summer. It tackles a good amount of foot traffic and is also super easy to maintain.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 to 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis grass type is great if you want dense, cushioning turf in your yard. St. Augustinegrass develops broad-leafed, coarse-textured grass blades that are hardy enough to tolerate shade and salty soil.
\n\n\n\nThis is the least cold-tolerant warm-season grass and is the slowest to gain its green lusciousness back in spring. St. Augustinegrass can tolerate extreme heat and has the capacity to thrive in all soil types, but only if the soil is well-drained.
\n\n\n\nThe only minus of a St. Augustine lawn is that it won’t do great with lots of foot traffic. If your household is outdoorsy or you have pets and kids who like to hang around the yard, you might prefer Bermudagrass or Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Centipedegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for low-maintenance grass, Centipedegrass is your pick. It’s a highly drought-tolerant grass that does pretty well with little to no fertilization.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass spreads by stolons and is one of the slow-growing grass types; it might even take a few years to fully establish if grown from seed. Typically, it creates a yellow-green lawn, that will turn a darker green when nitrogen fertilizer is applied. But resists the urge. Over-fertilization only increases maintenance needs and makes the grass sensitive to cold, thatch, and disease.
\n\n\n\nGenerally, centipedegrass lawns don’t respond well to overseeding and cold weather. But this grass type is fairly tolerant of shade and drought-like conditions, and repels weeds.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.0 to 6.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA few details about cool-season grasses you should know about:
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a look at these three cool-season grasses for your North Georgia yard:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/7370356864_c9e8d6081f_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis type of grass makes a great winter cover or a temporary yard for your Georgia landscape. You can plant perennial ryegrass as a protective cover over your warm-season grass to help it survive North Georgia’s cold winter with the nicest pop of green.
\n\n\n\nYou can also mix it with Kentucky bluegrass to improve its traffic and disease resistance. Perennial ryegrass naturally germinates quickly, suppresses weeds, and maintains a lovely green color through the winter.
\n\n\n\nIt develops tapered, fine-textured, and shiny blades that need regular maintenance to look uniform and good.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type, extends with tillers
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 to 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis is your go-to cool-season grass for a lawn in North Georgia. It’s shade-tolerant, drought-resistant, and highly adaptable to changing weather conditions. This grass type will also stay green throughout the year if you give it proper care. Plus, it’s pretty low-maintenance and is easy for beginners.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue survives in poor soil conditions and with low fertilization. Generally, tall fescue is also highly resistant to pests and diseases. Its coarse, wide blades proliferate fast and help the grass recover quickly from foot traffic or other damage.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis grass type creates a beautiful bluish-green lawn and grows best in Georgia’s cooler, northern areas.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is high maintenance. It needs more fertilizer, water, and herbicide than any other cool-season grass type. It prefers areas with partial shade, but will also handle full sunlight if watered generously. Kentucky bluegrass makes a soft, “walkable” lawn, but won’t adjust well to excessive foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 to 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass requires little maintenance. This fine-textured grass resists disease and drought and thrives in a variety of growing conditions.
Bermudagrass is popular across Georgia because of its incredible drought tolerance, dense appearance, low maintenance needs, and overall sturdiness.
Tall fescue can stay green year-round, provided you appropriately care for it. This grass type thrives in yards that have both shady and sunny areas and makes do with minimal maintenance in colder months.
Building and keeping a healthy lawn in cities with temperamental weather can get tough, but the best way to do it is to choose the appropriate grass type for our climate.
\n\n\n\nFor lawns in North Georgia, the best-suited cool-season grass is tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass for warm-season lawns.
If you aren’t sure which turfgrass would be good on your lawn, or you don’t wish to expend so much energy into researching, planning, and planting, call in one of our lawn care pros to help.
Main Image Credit: ZachJBeavers / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"7 Grasses That Thrive in North Georgia","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.6666666666666667,"src":"/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/1789c/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/107df/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/293e9/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/f2cbb/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/1789c/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/c26c2/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/1dd6e/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/67b76/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp 320w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/8df11/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp 500w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/98a65/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp 800w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/1dd6e/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp 960w,\n/static/0068233cc91b68b1f9695557844d19b3/3cc96/lawn-in-north-georgia-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"7 Grasses That Thrive in North Georgia | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Tired of your lawn struggling every time the weather changes? Here are seven grass types that thrive in North Georgia."}}},{"node":{"id":"9dac3550-da7b-5fa7-99b8-f2cfeb13f5f0","slug":"best-native-plants-ocala","path":"/lawn-care/fl/ocala/best-native-plants-ocala/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"af08368f-1b05-5608-9f05-085fc802e26c","name":"Ocala","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/ocala/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2023","excerpt":"Ocala is a picturesque city full of rolling hills, champion horses, and thoroughbred farms. It is home to the Ocala National Forest with over 430,000 acres of wildlife, lakes, rivers, and botanical diversity, making it easy to see many of the over 4,700 species of plants native to Florida live in their habitats. After seeing […]
\n","content":"\nOcala is a picturesque city full of rolling hills, champion horses, and thoroughbred farms. It is home to the Ocala National Forest with over 430,000 acres of wildlife, lakes, rivers, and botanical diversity, making it easy to see many of the over 4,700 species of plants native to Florida live in their habitats. After seeing these beautiful plants, consider adding some to your Florida lawn for a low-maintenance landscape.
\n\n\n\nNative plants offer many benefits, including:
\n\n\n\nNative plants promote a healthier Florida ecosystem. Check out these 25 native plants for Ocala to create a diverse landscape in your own backyard.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Azalea](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/azaleas-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nAzaleas are recognizable for their pink or white flowers lining the flowerbeds of many homes in North Central Florida. However, those particular plants are not native. They are actually hybrid varieties from Japan, Rhododendron indicum.
\n\n\n\nFlorida has its own native azaleas with smaller flowers. These fragrant flowers bloom in spring and range in color from pink to yellow. They are a slow-growing plant, eventually reaching heights up to 10 feet tall. They are low-maintenance shrubs that love partial shade and filtered sunlight. Add native azaleas to your flower beds and butterfly garden to attract pollinators.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5a-9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10 feet tall and 8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained acidic soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic; all plant parts are poisonous to humans and animals if ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/American_Beautyberry_6172956232.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Virginia State Parks staff / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBeautyberry is a sprawling shrub that works well as a border plant with its long branches arching toward the ground. Also known as American mulberry, its bright purple fruits attract birds and other wildlife. It responds well to pruning for a more compact appearance.
\n\n\n\nBeautyberry has small lavender flowers and fuzzy, light green leaves. The shrub blooms from spring to summer before maturing to fruits in September. Beautyberry is drought tolerant and adapts well to the acidic, sandy soils of North Central and South Florida.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-8 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers nutrient-rich soil but tolerates acidic, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; prefers a regular watering schedule and moist roots
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/black-eyed-susan-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan is a highly recognizable pop of color for Ocala yards. Known for its bright gold petals and dark brown centers, the hardy wildflower is salt and drought-tolerant and makes a great addition to any butterfly garden.
\n\n\n\nTransplanted flowers or sewn seeds grow well in garden beds and containers. Black-eyed Susan flowers grow atop round, clumping leaves. They love full sun and well-drained soil and work well as cut flowers for an outdoor-to-indoor home display.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Biennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable, prefers acidic soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Butterfly-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSome plant species, like milkweed, are vital to healthy Florida landscapes, and over 20 native species call Florida home. Butterfly weed is a native species of milkweed and an attractive flowering plant. It is a nectar source for bees and pollinators and a host plant for caterpillars, including the Monarch butterfly.
\n\n\n\nButterfly weed produces bright orange or yellow flowers from summer to fall. The hardy plant loves full sun and tolerates most soils. It is also moderately salt and drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-4 feet tall and less than 1 foot wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial, though some species are annuals
\n\n\n\nFoliage: N/A
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers dry, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Semi drought-tolerant; prefers to dry out between waterings
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: High toxicity; milky sap poisonous to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/coontie-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Leonora (Ellie) Enking / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nCoontie is a member of the cycad family. This clumping groundcover is a seed plant resembling a small fern. Also known as Florida arrowroot, the evergreen plant has ancient roots dating back to the time of the dinosaurs. It is an important member of the Florida ecosystem and the only cycad native to North America. Coontie is the larval food source of the rare Atala butterfly.
\n\n\n\nThe round plant has shiny, feather-shaped leaves attached to a thick stem. It works well as clumping groundcover in many areas of your landscape and is drought, salt, and cold-tolerant. It thrives in both sunny and shady conditions.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Clumping groundcover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-3 feet tall and 3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; prefers to dry out between waterings
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic; seeds are deadly to humans and animals if ingested, and the entire plant is poisonous
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/coral-honeysuckle-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jo Naylor / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCoral honeysuckle is a twining evergreen clumping vine found climbing the woods, sandhills, and flatwoods of Central and South Florida. It blooms year-round and does its best blooming in the winter. You can find it crawling trellises, walls, and fences, reaching heights up to 18 feet.
\n\n\n\nTrumpet-shaped red-orange flower clusters grow among dark, shiny leaves, giving way to bright red berries from September to October. Coral honeysuckle attracts hummingbirds, songbirds, and other pollinators with its vibrant flowers and fruit.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-18 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen to semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall (may need weekly watering during dry spells)
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to humans and animals if ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"bright](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/coreopsis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andrey Zarkikh / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCoreopsis is Florida’s state wildflower and a type of aster. Also known as tickseed, the perennial blooms daisy-shaped, yellow flowers with brown-orange centers from spring to summer.
\n\n\n\nCoreopsis is drought-tolerant and reseeds itself. Its bright blooms attract butterflies and native pollinators. Tickseed makes a great addition to flower beds, containers, and butterfly gardens.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-4 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: N/A
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun; tolerate partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers moist, well-drained soil, sand, or loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic, no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Pale](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/elliotts-aster-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Titus Tscharntke / Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nElliot’s aster is one of 331 native aster species in Florida. It is a perennial with a sprawling shape. It is quick-growing and great for filling gaps in flower beds and pollinator gardens. Elliott’s aster is especially attractive to honey bees.
\n\n\n\nThe delicate flower blooms light purple in late summer to early fall. It loves full sun and a range of soils but does not tolerate salt.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8b-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-4 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: N/A
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers moist soil, sand, loam, or clay
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderately drought-tolerant; prefers moist soil
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic, edible
\n\n\n\n![\"clumps](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/fakahatchee_grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nFakahatchee grass is a clumping plant that makes great ornamental grass for Ocala landscapes. It works well as an accent and border plant. Fakahatchee grass is the food source for the larval Byssus Skipper butterfly. You can find it growing naturally along river banks and swamps in South and Central Florida.
\n\n\n\nThis ornamental grass is easy to grow. It has grass-like foliage and small white, yellow, or pink flowers that bloom in late spring. It grows best in full sun and loves well-drained, moist soil, though it adapts to drier conditions and will survive flooding. Fakahatchee grass responds well to pruning but grows just as well as a low-maintenance plant when left alone.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Ornamental grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-4 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen to semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; well-drained, moist acidic or alkaline soil, sand, loam, clay; extended flooding
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderately drought-tolerant; prefers moist soil
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"bright](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/firebush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mokki / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nFirebush has distinctive bright red flowers that bloom from late spring to the first frost. It is a hardy shrub popular with hummingbirds, butterflies, and other local wildlife. Firebush can reach up to 15 feet tall in North Central Florida but responds well to pruning for contained growth.
\n\n\n\nThe semi-woody shrub works well as a standalone shrub, hedgerow, or border plant. The foliage will die if temperatures hit freezing but will regrow in spring. Firebush adapts to most soil conditions and is heat and drought-tolerant with no natural disease or insect threats.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 9-12
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-12 feet tall and 5-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall (may need weekly watering during dry spells)
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Low toxicity; poisonous to humans and animals, though it has a bitter taste most animals avoid
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/florida-anise-tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: peganum / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nPurple anise, or the Florida anise tree, is actually an evergreen shrub with small star-shaped purple to red flowers. Its skinny branches droop to the ground, giving the shrub a rounded shape while its flowers bloom in spring with fruits following from late summer to fall. The fruits of the Florida anise tree give off a distinct licorice odor when crushed like its cousin star anise.
\n\n\n\nFlorida anise has a dense growth pattern, making it ideal for windbreaks and hedgerows. They grow well in partial shade but prefer full sun and respond well to pruning. Florida state law protects these low-maintenance evergreen shrubs. They love rich soil and moisture but adapt to most conditions. The purple anise does not tolerate salt water and its foliage is poisonous, making it resistant to insects, deer, and Ocala black bears.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall and 6-10 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers rich, moist soil, clay, sand, or loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic; foliage is poisonous to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/gaillardia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JJ Harrison / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nExperts recently discovered the most popular species of gaillardia, Gaillardia pulchella, also known as blanket flower, is not native to Florida. However, a similar species of gaillardia, Gaillardia aestivalis, or lanceleaf blanket flower, is native to North and Central Florida, making it an excellent choice for your Ocala landscape.
\n\n\n\nPart of the daisy family, lanceleaf blanket flower is a quick-growing perennial with showy yellow compound blooms appearing from late spring into fall. This clumping plant attracts butterflies and pollinators. Unfortunately, it is short-lived.
\n\n\n\nGaillardia aestivalis prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It is drought-tolerant and self sows. This native wildflower makes a great addition to borders, rock gardens, small spaces, containers, and butterfly gardens.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower or clumping groundcover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall and up to 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; well-drained acidic or alkaline soil, sand, rock, or loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/muhly-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMuhly grass is one of the most low-maintenance and easy-to-grow options for Ocala landscapes. This ornamental clumping grass lines Florida flatwoods, uplands, and highways, producing fluffy pink flower stalks every fall.
\n\n\n\nMuhly grass thrives in the sun and is drought-tolerant. The salt-tolerant grass is perfect for flower beds, borders, and low-maintenance mass plantings.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Ornamental grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-5 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; acidic or alkaline soil, sand, loam, clay; extended flooding
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Oakleaf](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/oakleaf-hydrangea-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anne Norman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nOakleaf hydrangea is a rare shade-loving shrub found in the understory of large trees like Florida live oaks. It is coarse-textured with large, cone-shaped flower clusters that bloom for months every summer and change colors from white to light pink and purple.
\n\n\n\nThe fast-growing deciduous shrub gets its name from its dark green, oak-shaped leaves that turn red, gold, or purple in the fall. Oakleaf hydrangea reaches heights up to 10 feet tall and thrives in fertile, well-drained soil. Smaller cultivars like “Pee Wee” are available for homeowners with limited space.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5b-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-10 feet high and 6-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full shade to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers, fertile, well-drained soil; adapts to most soil conditions, including moist, acidic soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderately drought-tolerant; prefers moist soil
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic; all plant parts are poisonous to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/nature-plant-flower-purple-bloom-summer-543725-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nPassion flower, or maypop, is a flowering vine and butterfly host plant. It is fast-growing, and hardy with dense foliage that provides natural cover for wildlife. Passion flower’s large lavender blooms attract hummingbirds and butterflies. The vine produces edible green fruits, though they are not related to passion fruit and do not taste good.
\n\n\n\nThe perennial vine loves full sun and spreads to occupy a trellis, fence, or archway. Passion flower is pest-resistant and tolerates drought conditions. However, the hardy plant is susceptible to nematode damage in North Central Florida.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 30 feet; spreads to occupy the trellis or fence
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; water twice weekly during dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; safe for humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"Closeup](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/powderpuff-mimosa-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nPowderpuff mimosa is a low-growing, flowering groundcover. Also known as sunshine mimosa, this flowering plant is an important host plant for butterfly larvae. It blooms puffy, pink, ball-shaped flowers from spring through fall among bright-green, fern-shaped leaves.
\n\n\n\nPowderpuff mimosa withstands light traffic and spreads quickly. However, it is not an aggressive plant and works well with turfgrass and in containers alongside other plants. It helps control landscape erosion, is drought tolerant with deep roots, and grows well in full sun to partial shade.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Ornamental flowering groundcover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8b-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: Spreading; up to 1 foot tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; acidic or alkaline soil, sand, or loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Saw](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/saw-palmetto-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Rivera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nSaw palmetto is easily recognizable, growing wild throughout Florida. It is a slow-growing, clumping palm that only reaches heights of 5 to 10 feet. Saw palmetto has sprawling, fan-shaped fronds, and tall white flowers bloom on stalks in the spring followed by yellow berries from August to October.
\n\n\n\nThe palm’s berries are an important food source for local wildlife, and some people believe the extract helps cure cancer though there is no scientific evidence. The plant’s popularity as an alternative medicine has led officials to place a harvesting permit requirement on the plant.
\n\n\n\nSaw Palmetto is the host plant for the Palmetto Skipper and Monk butterflies’ larvae. Saw palmetto grows best in full sun and makes a great addition to mixed borders, privacy hedges, and foundation plants. It is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Palm shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 5-10 feet tall and 4-10 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, moist soils or seasonally water-logged areas
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall (may need weekly watering during dry spells)
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/scarlet-sage-salvia-close-up.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nScarlet salvia is an herbaceous perennial with many names, including blood sage, scarlet sage, and tropical sage. It has tubular red flowers that bloom from spring through fall. The attractive plant reaches up to 4 feet tall and attracts Ocala wildlife, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nScarlet salvia is drought and salt-tolerant. The adaptable plant responds well to pruning and grows well in flower beds, containers, and butterfly gardens.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herbaceous plant
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-4 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; acidic or alkaline soil, sand, or loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/tree-plant-fruit-leaf-flower-food-829906-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nYou can find seagrape growing along Florida’s coasts. It is an endangered and protected shrub that is salt-tolerant. The small tree produces clusters of edible red fruit resembling grapes, clusters of cream-colored flowers, and bright green, round foliage with red veins.
\n\n\n\nLeft unattended, seagrape will grow to 50 feet tall and 30 feet wide but responds well to pruning. These plants work well as hedges, privacy screens, natural windbreaks, and shade trees with attractive, twisted trunks. Seagrape grows well in full or partial sun and sandy, acidic soils. It is very low maintenance except for the occasional pruning.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree or shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 10a-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 35-50 feet tall and 20-30 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; edible fruits
\n\n\n\n![\"Long](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/southern-live-oak-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nSouthern live oak is a picturesque shade tree straight out of a famous novel. Its branches sprawl up to 60 feet high and 100 feet wide, while its trunk grows up to 6 feet in diameter. These impressive trees live for hundreds of years when planted with enough room to thrive.
\n\n\n\nSouthern live oaks love well-drained, moist soil. With regular pruning while young, these large trees become incredibly wind-resistant, making them an excellent addition to a hurricane-ready landscape.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 60 feet tall and 100 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Young southern live oaks might need watering once a month except during winter when rainfall provides enough water; mature trees are very drought-tolerant and most likely won’t need any watering outside of rainfall
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Acorns and leaves are toxic to pets and cause gastrointestinal upset if ingested; surface roots can damage nearby sidewalks, driveways, or other pavement
\n\n\n\n![\"Magnolia](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/800px-Magnolia_grandiflora_Piazzo.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Syrio / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nSouthern magnolias have shiny, evergreen leaves and creamy white flowers up to a foot in diameter. These large trees grow up to 90 feet tall and produce a lemon-like fragrance. They make a great addition to privacy screens and boundary establishments and respond well to pruning and branch training.
\n\n\n\nSouthern magnolias thrive in the sandy Ocala soils, preferring well-drained, moist, acidic soils. They grow in full sun to partial shade. It is important to note that these large trees grow best as perimeter plants as they shed leaves and seedpods every spring.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 7-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 90 feet tall and 50 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers moist, well-drained, acidic soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Young southern magnolias need watering one to two times weekly for the first six months; mature trees are drought tolerant and only need watering during extreme drought
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards; surface roots can damage nearby sidewalks, driveways, or other pavement
\n\n\n\n![\"Southern](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/southern-wax-myrtle-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BotBln / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nSouthern wax myrtle is a small tree or large shrub that makes a great hedgerow or windscreen around Ocala properties. It is salt-tolerant and multi-stemmed with a round canopy. Southern wax myrtles are quick-growing and respond well to pruning and branch training.
\n\n\n\nThese trees produce fragrant green flowers, glossy leaves, and gray bark. Wax myrtles adapt to a range of soils, including the acidic, sandy soils of Florida, and grow well in full sun to full shade.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree or shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 7b-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 25 feet tall, but often kept shorter than 12 feet in landscapes; up to 25 feet wide at the crown
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun or partial shade but tolerates full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water once every 10-14 days in the absence of rain
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/flower-plant-nature-flora-blossom-botany-1370586-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nOcala’s subtropical climate creates the perfect environment for crawling vines. Star jasmine, also known as jessamine and evening trumpet flower, is a fragrant flowering vine with clusters of tiny white flowers that bloom in early spring and summer, attracting pollinators to your yard. It is moderately salt-tolerant, drought-resistant, and shade-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nStar jasmine is fast-growing and spreads to occupy any available space. It works well as groundcover but requires frequent pruning. The flowering vine is best planted near lampposts, trellises, arbors, or chain-link fences, and will not climb masonry walls or wooden fences without supports.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine or spreading groundcover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; may need weekly watering during extreme dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"Small](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/walters-viburnum-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Rivera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWalter’s viburnum is another small tree that works well in Ocala landscapes as a large shrub. It has small white flowers that attract butterflies and fruits that ripen in fall, attracting birds and other wildlife. Walter’s viburnum reaches heights up to 20 feet tall but responds well to pruning and training, making it a great option for hedgerows and privacy screens.
\n\n\n\nThe flowering tree has dense foliage that acts as a nesting spot for songbirds, and it is the host plant for the Azure butterfly. It is drought tolerant and prefers full sun to partial shade. These plants do not tolerate salt and need moist, well-drained soil.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree or shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 7-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-20 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; water twice weekly
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; safe for humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"sharp](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/yucca-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nYucca plants are a group of Florida shrubs that love full sun and the fast-draining, sandy soils found in Ocala. They are extremely drought and heat-tolerant. Yucca plants grow well in flower beds, and their spiky foliage makes a great standalone specimen plant.
\n\n\n\nThere are three native Yucca species in Florida:
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-10 feet tall and 2-6 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial; some species are annuals
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained soil and does not tolerate heavy clay soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Drought-tolerant; water every 10 days
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderate toxicity; poisonous to humans and animals when consumed raw; edible when cooked
\n\n\n\nNot all native plants grow well in your Ocala yard and each has their own needs. It is important to consider your landscape’s needs, including soil type, irrigation access, and sun and shade conditions, and select plants suitable for your unique microclimate.
\n\n\n\nOcala sits in USDA Hardiness Zone 9a, indicating the coldest annual temperature is between 20 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Florida-native plants are cold-hardy to the minimum temperature in Ocala’s hardiness zone. Keep your zone in mind when selecting non-native plants for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nThanks to Ocala’s year-round subtropical climate, you can plant anytime you want. Plants go through their active growing season in spring and summer. Experts agree the best time to head into your garden is from mid-March to the beginning of April.
Early morning is the best time to water your plants. Foliage needs time to dry before nightfall, and wet foliage can lead to disease and rot. Winds are calmer and temperatures are lower in the early morning, so there is less risk of water loss from evaporation or sun scorching.
Native plants support beneficial insects like butterflies, bees, and birds as well as Florida’s ecosystem. Many are salt and drought-tolerant and adapted to the acidic, sandy soil found in most North Central Florida yards, making them easier to grow.
Create your own home forest complete with fragrant blooms, hanging vines, and warm-season turfgrass to invite butterflies and songbirds into your yard by introducing native plants. Be sure to source your plants ethically from reputable nurseries.
\n\n\n\nCheck out these local Ocala nurseries:
\n\n\n\nMany native plants are drought and wind-tolerant, standing up to dry summers and high winds. Be sure to create a landscape maintenance plant to care for your new native plants and turfgrass year-round. Check out our spring lawn care tips to get you started.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help deciding which native plants to add to your landscape, let Wikilawn connect you with a local Ocala landscaping pro.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Jasmine flower / Wallpaperflare
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