![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Don’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and […]
\n","content":"\nDon’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and more beautiful lawn come spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll go over:
\n\n\n\nThe cool autumn weather is a great opportunity to fertilize your lawn, control weeds, and improve the overall health and appearance of your Columbus yard. With some effort on your part now, you’ll have a green, healthy carpet by the time spring rolls around.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEver notice how getting leaves off your lawn immediately boosts your home’s curb appeal? But there’s more to raking leaves than aesthetics.
\n\n\n\nYou can mulch them in your yard to provide some organic nutrients for your soil, but don’t build a thick layer as it can interfere with lawn care treatments and block sunlight. Alternatively, you can gather them up and add them to your compost.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_33362501875_0d0e78d669_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nColumbus residents generally plant cool-season grasses that grow most vigorously in spring and fall. Careful watering in the fall will lead to healthy growth, strong roots, and a good fighting chance for your grass in winter.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn until the first freeze approaches, around October. Cool-season grass needs around 1 inch of water per week, which includes rainfall. Let your lawn guide you and watch for signs of overwatering, such as:
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering is bad for your lawn as well. A lack of regular watering will result in:
\n\n\n\nAs a rule of thumb, try to follow these watering guidelines:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDethatching is the removal of excess thatch (grass clippings, leaves, dead grass, and other organic matter) from your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDethatching is recommended for lawns that are dry, less dense, and unhealthy. It allows nutrients, air, and water to better reach the soil. Not to mention that it keeps pests at bay, which is always a plus.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to dethatch cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue is late August or early September. With proper lawn maintenance, dethatching only needs to be done once every few years.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you need to dethatch:
\n\n\n\nHow to dethatch your lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you dream of a lush lawn, you can’t overlook aeration. When you aerate, you reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizer, air, and water to penetrate your lawn’s root system. It’s best to aerate your cool-season grasses in fall.
\n\n\n\nOften, dethatching and aeration go hand in hand. When you dethatch, you remove the dead layer of matter preventing your soil from getting the proper nutrients. Then, you come in with aeration to help your lawn breathe.
\n\n\n\nAs a homeowner, there are three different types of aeration you should know about.
\n\n\n\nWhen to aerate: August through November are ideal for fall aeration in Columbus. Also, if possible, try to aerate around the time you fertilize to enhance root growth.
\n\n\n\nHow often to aerate: Most lawns benefit from annual aeration, but heavily used lawns may require aeration twice a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat to expect after aeration: Immediately after aeration, your lawn will be covered with the small plugs pulled from the soil, but worry not, as they’ll disappear into the lawn within a week or two.
\n\n\n\nAbout seven to 10 days after aeration, white active root growth will fill the holes – a sign that the grass is getting the necessary nutrients from the soil. With repeated aeration, your lawn will be able to go longer between waterings without wilting and its drought and heat tolerance will improve significantly.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lab](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Soil-Fertility-Analysis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alandmanson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil tests are an excellent investment for lawns, gardens, and landscapes. They’re an inexpensive way to maintain soil health and provide an accurate diagnostic. You can get a complete picture of nutrient levels, also known as N-P-K levels (which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Though these nutrients are always present in your soil, their levels may not be optimal for grass growth.
\n\n\n\nBy having a soil sample tested, you’ll find out:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to have your soil tested, we explain the process below.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to give this process a shot, you can take advantage of the services provided by Ohio State University Extension in Licking County. The university will help you fill out the submission form and send the samples to an accredited lab. Depending on the soil test results, you’ll know what your lawn needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you look out into your yard, the last thing you want to see is brown patches, spots, and weeds. Luckily, overseeding can prevent all of that. It involves adding seed to your existing grass without tearing up the lawn or soil. Simply put, it’s an easy way to fill in bare spots, improve the density of turf, introduce new grass varieties to your lawn, and enhance color.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to overseed in Columbus is mid to late September, prior to the first frost. If you’ve aerated (which is strongly recommended), overseeding should be done within 48 hours to avoid issues such as decomposition of the aeration plugs or debris getting into the holes.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding can:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawns do a lot more for us than provide a green carpet for our toes to glide through. They improve air quality, reduce heat, and generate oxygen, so keeping them in top shape is important. One of the best ways to do that is to fertilize them.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer means knowing what your soil’s exact needs are. If you’re unsure, consider taking some soil samples and sending them out to a lab for testing (Ohio State University offers submission support and helpful information). The diagnostic will provide insight into your soil’s current condition and the correct nutrients it needs to flourish.
\n\n\n\nFor maximum winter hardiness, disease resistance, and root growth, select a fertilizer that has high concentrations of the macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (also known as N-P-K ratio).
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is vital for lawn growth and that lovely green grass color. The percentage of nitrogen is always the first number on a fertilizer bag, followed by phosphorus and potassium. It will always be higher than the others because soils generally contain enough phosphorus and potassium.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: When it comes to new lawns, you should pick a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, to get the lawn established. A typical N-P-K ratio in this case is 12-16-8 or 8-18-12.
\n\n\n\nThe second number represents the percentage of phosphorus. This nutrient is critical in developing and strengthening a healthy root system. Strong grass roots will keep your lawn healthy and sturdy even through the changing stresses of the seasons. It’s important to introduce phosphorus when first establishing turfgrass and continue application as the grass grows.
\n\n\n\nThe last macronutrient vitally important to lawn health is potassium. It supports water absorption, respiration, and protein production. In essence, potassium helps lawns withstand drought, stress, and disease.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers can be slow-release or quick-release.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release fertilizers are much better for your lawn, as they promote steady, uniform growth. As an added bonus, you won’t have to fertilize regularly.
\n\n\n\nQuick-release fertilizers are absorbed at a much faster pace, but there’s a high risk of burning your lawn. Plus, they don’t last as long, so you’ll need to re-apply.
\n\n\n\nWhen to fertilize: Plan for two fertilizer applications between late August and November. Summer heat is stressful on our lawns, so fall’s cooler temperatures provide the perfect opportunity for Columbus lawns to regain strength.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize because:
\n\n\n\nThe best time of day to apply fertilizer is in the morning or early evening. You’ll avoid the warm daytime temperatures that work against the process.
\n\n\n\nHow to fertilize:
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in fall, but did you know that weeds do, as well? There are many types of weeds lurking in our yards just waiting for a chance to sow seed. They’re a pain and can cause issues such as allergic reactions.
\n\n\n\nIn Columbus, you’ll likely encounter nuisances such as:
\n\n\n\nThankfully, there are a few good ways to combat these annoying plants. While fertilizer generally keeps weeds at bay, it may not be enough. Applying pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides is a great way to nip the problem in the bud.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicide acts by creating a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil and coating the seeds to prevent them from growing roots. Make sure it becomes incorporated into the soil via rainfall or irrigation, as it must be present whenever weed seeds are germinating.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It inhibits plant root growth, seed cell division, and specific enzymes critical to the growth of certain plants like weeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply pre-emergent herbicide: Timing is everything. Try to stick to an early to mid-September application and select the right herbicide for your yard.
\n\n\n\nSome weeds will slip past pre-emergent herbicides. In that case, post-emergent herbicide becomes your best friend. It controls weeds that have already germinated and are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It targets specific plant parts, such as leaves and stems. The mixture of chemicals kills the weed and prevents it from growing back.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply post-emergent herbicide: For Columbus cool-season grasses, post-emergents are best applied in early fall when temperatures are at or slightly above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nA non-selective herbicide kills pretty much everything it touches. In contrast, selective herbicide targets specific weed types and leaves other plants alone.
\n\n\n\nWeed control products are generally available in both granular and liquid forms and application varies. Granular herbicide is poured into a spreader and distributed evenly across the area of the lawn. Liquid herbicide is poured into a sprayer and sprayed all over the target area.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA good sign that you need to stop mowing is when your grass stops growing. It’s important that your lawn is cut to the right height before winter.
\n\n\n\nMow too high and your grass can develop snow mold during wintertime. Grass that’s cut too short may wither and die in the cold temperatures of Columbus.
\n\n\n\nOnce frost has arrived, stop mowing. Frost freezes the moisture inside the grass blades, so any activity on your turf can break the blade and significantly damage your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe table below highlights the mowing height appropriate for Columbus cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Suggested Fall Mowing Height |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Fine fescue | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Valve.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnless you properly winterize your irrigation system before winter, you’ll likely end up with cracked pipes and broken sprinkler heads come springtime.
\n\n\n\nColumbus homeowners are advised to winterize their sprinklers in October or early November, before the first freeze.
\n\n\n\nThe winterization process involves:
\n\n\n\nIt depends on how loose your soil is. Grass seeds should be placed on loose, prepared soil. If you simply throw it down, there may be some sprouting, but generally speaking the germination rate won’t be very successful. Taking the time to get your soil ready will ensure optimal results.
Good lawn care leads to a lush, great-looking lawn. Avoid making the following mistakes:
• Mowing too short. This causes your lawn to thin out and provides space for weeds to push through.
• Bagging your clippings. Contrary to popular belief, clippings don’t increase thatch. They provide around 25% of the fertilizer your lawn needs, so don’t deprive your grass of readily available free nutrients.
• Cutting your grass with dull mower blades. Don’t use dull mower blades to mow your lawn as the mower tears the grass blades rather than cutting them. The damage can leave your lawn susceptible to lawn disease.
Chemical fertilizers are generally a ‘quick fix’ solution. They provide the nutrients grass needs, but pollute our water, soil, and the environment within the soil itself. In contrast, organic fertilizers are made from natural ingredients that produce long-lasting feeding for your lawn, making them a much better alternative.
Fall in Columbus is a beautiful sight – the leaves are bright and colorful, the weather is perfect for your favorite sweater, and there are tons of activities to enjoy all week long.
\n\n\n\nBut before you go apple picking and pumpkin patch visiting, get your lawn ready for the long winter ahead. Start planning early to avoid being caught unprepared.
\n\n\n\nStill, if you’d rather go bike riding in one of the city’s metro parks or explore the Columbus zoo and aquarium, a Columbus lawn care pro can get your lawn ready for the cold season so you can continue doing all the things you love.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Ohio State University / Dan Keck / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Columbus, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1789c/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/107df/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 320w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/293e9/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 500w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/f2cbb/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 800w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1789c/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 960w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/c26c2/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1dd6e/The-Ohio-State-University.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/67b76/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 320w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/8df11/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 500w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/98a65/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 800w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1dd6e/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 960w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/3cc96/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Columbus, OH","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"With Columbus’ snowy winters and frigid temperatures, it’s important to get your lawn ready for the cold ahead by doing some fall maintenance."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"f9879681-f5b4-5ed2-93df-bd0a0ed130bc","slug":"tired-of-traditional-turf-try-a-grass-alternative","path":"/blog/home-and-garden/tired-of-traditional-turf-try-a-grass-alternative/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Max Mustermann","id":"38f26ae5-e768-550f-a948-33b5a37f67de","path":"/author/roblawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7f12ece9fc89be73ee3b329da1a4eb0c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"October 15th, 2019","excerpt":"Traditional lawns are part of the American dream — an ocean of green covering nearly 2% of our nation’s area. But at what cost? Americans view the hassle of mowing, fertilizing, irrigation, and pest control our lawns demand as the price we pay for flawless turfgrass. The net effect is a bit grim. Cristina Milesi, […]
\n","content":"\nTraditional lawns are part of the American dream — an ocean of green covering nearly 2% of our nation’s area. But at what cost? Americans view the hassle of mowing, fertilizing, irrigation, and pest control our lawns demand as the price we pay for flawless turfgrass. The net effect is a bit grim.
\n\n\n\nCristina Milesi, a NASA researcher who studies lawn area, says, “I estimate there are three times more acres of lawns in the U.S. than irrigated corn.” Her figures reveal turfgrass is the largest crop in America. “Each family may have only a small lawn,” she explains, “but once you add them all up, they have a big impact.”
\n\n\n\nGrass is needy. It needs a mower to manage its length and an edger to tidy its margins. It thrives in full sun and struggles in shady areas. It hungers for fertilizer and thirsts for water. In short, maintaining a grass lawn means spending a lot of time and money on lawn care.
\n\n\n\nThere are lawn alternatives that are low-maintenance and need less water than a traditional lawn. Here’s a selection of lawn replacements that can save you time and make your yard more eco-friendly.
\n\n\n\nTurfgrass isn’t all bad: It absorbs carbon dioxide and helps prevent erosion. But the non-native varieties used in the traditional lawn take large volumes of water and fertilizer. Native grasses thrive on poor soil, are drought-tolerant, and don’t mind partial shade. The best part? They require little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nThe most common native is buffalo grass (pictured above), a bunch-type grass that once dominated the Plains. Others include bluestem, blue grama and switchgrass. Contact your local county extension agent to see what the most common varieties or blends do best in your area.
\n\n\n\nIf your goal is to reduce lawn maintenance, consider a product like No-Mow-Grass. There are two blends sold commercially under the No-Mow brand. One is a fescue mix for Northern areas where it freezes, and the other is a buffalo grass mix for hot, dry Southern climes. Despite the name, No-Mow-Grass needs mowing once a year in late spring or fall. Like any turf grass that sees heavy foot traffic, No-Mow lawns benefit from a core aeration every couple of years.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/creeping-jenny-groundcover-peter-stevens-cc20.jpg\")
Not all grass alternatives are green. Using mulch, gravel, or even artificial turf to cover large areas of the yard can be aesthetically pleasing and are obviously shade and drought tolerant as can be. The jury is still out on whether artificial grass is a good alternative to turfgrass. Mulch is a fine addition to garden and flower beds because it helps to control weeds, retains soil moisture, and breaks down over time, adding nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/QlUzeqrntDZ8N_UfSNMSnnSunjCk2zWaeLEju6OOX3xGIPgKHDk4cfVcuRJl0yRafKRgaV06H3XNxfOpBaQLSq4vYOmFq9Y_Moa9G6WpBF5OKfQ3ggWjzRvhJMxGPOlEfttDpQOn\")
Offering compact, thick green growth, Dutch white clover is a perfect lawn replacement. Its root system generates nitrogen, reducing the need for fertilizing. You can achieve a more drought-tolerant lawn that requires less mowing by encouraging the growth of existing white clover patches. A mixed turfgrass and clover lawn can take heavy foot traffic better than a solid clover lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line? There’s no reason to support a needy front lawn when so many shade-loving lawn replacements exist. Find your groove, make your changes, and pat yourself on the back for doing your part to make the world a little greener.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: “Buffalo grass” by CAJC: in the PNW is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"Tired of Traditional Turf? Try a Grass Alternative","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.439278937381404,"src":"/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/1789c/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg","srcSet":"/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/107df/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg 320w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/293e9/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg 500w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/f2cbb/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg 800w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/1789c/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg 960w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/e0195/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.jpg 1517w","srcWebp":"/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/1dd6e/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/67b76/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp 320w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/8df11/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp 500w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/98a65/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp 800w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/1dd6e/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp 960w,\n/static/fffe31371e63fda79da4e920147a5ea0/bab36/rsz_buffalograss-carol-jacobs-carre-ccbysa20.webp 1517w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Tired of Traditional Turf? Try a Grass Alternative | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"381bf1d6-38f1-5cb0-8625-812efc325c23","slug":"best-grass-seed-types-massachusetts","path":"/lawn-care/ma/best-grass-seed-types-massachusetts/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nicki DeStasi is a writer, author, and teacher who grew up in western Massachusetts and currently resides in the Austin area. She enjoys flower and vegetable gardening, reading, cooking, listening to true-crime podcasts, and spending time with her husband, two children, dog, and cat.","name":"Nicki DeStasi","id":"ffbf62e2-d627-5a5f-a041-4eaa9ac66924","path":"/author/nicki-destasi/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9846092d7afb2db8d0a4daa2454074f0?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"33c4a526-c6f7-5d9e-96d4-d1803a4d03b7","name":"Massachusetts","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ma/"}],"date":"June 2nd, 2023","excerpt":"You can do a lot in Massachusetts – get a frappe, bang a uey into Dunks, catch a game at the Garden – but the best is hanging in your yard. Gardening, sunbathing, or tossing a pigskin is even better with a luscious lawn. Whether you’re living on the Cape, the Hub, or down the […]
\n","content":"\nYou can do a lot in Massachusetts – get a frappe, bang a uey into Dunks, catch a game at the Garden – but the best is hanging in your yard. Gardening, sunbathing, or tossing a pigskin is even better with a luscious lawn. Whether you’re living on the Cape, the Hub, or down the Pike in Western Massachusetts, choose one of the 5 best grass seed types for Massachusetts for a wicked awesome lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWith Massachusetts’ relatively mild summers and freezing winters, all but one type of turf (Zoysiagrass) is cool-season grass. In general, there are key differences between warm-season and cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses grow quickly and have high-drought tolerance. Conversely, cool-season grasses are resilient and luxurious.
\n\n\n\nBut those differences only scratch the surface. Here are some more differentiating characteristics between warm-season and cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nThe following grass seed types are perfect for Massachusetts’ climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe fine fescue grass type is a combination of slender creeping red fescue, strong creeping red fescue, hard fescue, chewings fescue, and sheep fescue. Depending on the mixture, fine fescue ranges from blue-green to medium green, and the blades are soft and needle-thin. As long as temperatures stay below 90 degrees, fine fescue lawns stay green throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass except for creeping red fescues, which have rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high; prefers at least four hours of sunlight per day
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; can be prone to diseases like red thread and snow mold
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5- 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry to somewhat moist, rocky, sandy, or clay soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For best results, it’s recommended to plant this during late summer or early fall, but it also can be planted in early spring. During the germination process, which can take up to three weeks, it’s important to keep the soil moist.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is the most popular cool-season grass due to its lovely dark bluish-emerald color with soft, medium to fine texture. Its self-repairing rhizomes fill in gaps and create a beautiful carpeted lawn. But its roots are short, making absorbing essential nutrients hard. Therefore, it’s best to mix Kentucky Bluegrass with other grass types like fescue or ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches – mow taller in the summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high – can be prone to summer patch, snow molds, fairy rings, leaf spot, dollar spot, chinch bugs, grubs, greenbugs, and bluegrass billbugs
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: To ensure the best growth for this grass type, fertilize twice a year (in spring and fall) and frequently mow your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a fast-growing dark green grass with a fine leaf texture. While it can easily stand alone, it’s often used as a companion (nurse grass) for other grasses and seed blends because of its low maintenance, hardiness, and resistance to pests and diseases. However, while still lovely, its bunched growth habit doesn’t typically create a dense carpet-like lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type (tillers)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low – goes dormant in dry summers
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High – needs frequent cutting
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers fertile, well-drained soils but adapts to many soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: The best time to fertilize perennial ryegrass in Massachusetts is in the early spring or early fall, providing optimal conditions for nutrient uptake and promoting healthy growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTall fescue is fast-growing with shiny, wide, ribbed, dark green coarse leaves. With excellent cold tolerance, it can survive our cold winters. Due to its bunched growth, it’s best as a stand-alone grass. When mixed with other grass types, your lawn grows patchy and unattractive. It doesn’t require dethatching or a lot of fertilization but may require overseeding.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass – it has vertical shoots called “tillers”
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – can’t recuperate easily
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate – prepare to mow often due to its fast growth rate
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Best on clay soils high in organic matter but adapts to many soil types.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For optimal growth and vibrancy of your lawn, apply fertilizer once during the fall months, preferably in September or November.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is slow-growing but forms a beautiful, dense light to emerald green lawn with fine blades. It’s the only warm-season grass recommended this far north, but it will go dormant in the winter (it hides under the snow). Due to its appearance, excellent erosion control, and high foot traffic tolerance, it’s a common choice for parks, golf courses, and other public places.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – although it needs supplemental watering during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – common diseases include leaf spot, fairy rings, brown patch, powdery mildew, rust, large patch, spring dead spot, root decline, and dollar spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It’s best to fertilize Zoysiagrass during the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nPlanting grass seed in Massachusetts is a relatively easy DIY project if you follow the proper steps.
• Choose the right time: It varies by region and grass type. But in Massachusetts, homeowners usually plant grass in the fall.
• Prepare the site: Remove dead grass and grade it if needed. Also, rake where you plan to plant.
• Prepare the soil: Test your soil, then fertilize it as needed.
• Choose the best seed: Consider your lawn’s soil, sun, and foot traffic, as well as the amount of time you have for maintenance.
• Plant the seed: Using a spreader, distribute grass seed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Water appropriately: Varies by grass type. Understand your grass types’ water needs, or you could have lawn problems.
• Monitor seed establishment: Growth will take five to 21 days, depending on the grass type. Watch for bare spots as grass comes in. Reseed bare spots.
• Mow and maintain: Mow and maintain according to grass type needs.
Early fall is the best time to plant grass seed in Massachusetts. During this season, the days are cool with intermittent rain, but the ground is still warm enough for germination. This combination ensures that newly planted seeds won’t dry out.
Perennial ryegrass is known for its excellent traffic tolerance, making it a popular choice for high-traffic areas in Massachusetts. Its ability to withstand foot traffic and recover quickly from damage makes it an ideal grass type for lawns that experience heavy use.
Several grass types grow well in Massachusetts’ sandy, acidic soil, but each has pros and cons. When choosing your grass seed type, think about your soil’s microclimate – soil, sunlight, water–and how much time you can devote to maintenance.
\n\n\n\nIn the end, your choice will still depend on your specific needs and preferences. If your kids or pets spend a lot of time outside, go with Perennial ryegrass. If you want to mow less often, try Zoysiagrass. Plant Kentucky bluegrass if your goal is simply a dense, beautiful lawn. Or you might want a combination of grasses to achieve a balance of desirable traits.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve established your lawn, don’t forget to add the best native plants to make your landscape pop. Whether in Boston, Worcester, Springfield, Cambridge, Lowell, or somewhere in between, Wikilawn can connect you with a highly-rated lawn care pro who can help keep your grass healthy.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Boston Common / Shiyang Hu / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Seed Types for Massachusetts","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1789c/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/107df/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 320w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/293e9/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 500w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/f2cbb/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 800w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1789c/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 960w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/c26c2/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1dd6e/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/67b76/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 320w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/8df11/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 500w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/98a65/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 800w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1dd6e/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 960w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/3cc96/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Seed Types for Massachusetts | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"There are 5 best grass seed types for Massachusetts, including fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and Zoysiagrass."}}},{"node":{"id":"eff107a4-4b35-58a8-86c1-529ae68ff155","slug":"best-grass-types-ocala","path":"/lawn-care/fl/ocala/best-grass-types-ocala/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"af08368f-1b05-5608-9f05-085fc802e26c","name":"Ocala","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/ocala/"}],"date":"May 8th, 2023","excerpt":"With an average temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit in January, it is easy to see why Ocala, Florida, is a great place to raise and train thoroughbred horses. Named the “Horse Capital of the World” in 2007, this North Central Florida city has a humid subtropical climate with mild winters. The best grass types for […]
\n","content":"\nWith an average temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit in January, it is easy to see why Ocala, Florida, is a great place to raise and train thoroughbred horses. Named the “Horse Capital of the World” in 2007, this North Central Florida city has a humid subtropical climate with mild winters. The best grass types for Ocala thrive in the city’s hot summers. If you are installing a new lawn or looking to green up your existing yard, consider one of these options for a lush Florida oasis.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is no surprise that the Sunshine State benefits from warm-season grass varieties that prefer growing temperatures between 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. These grasses come from tropical regions, making them well-adapted to Ocala’s humid climate. Warm-season turfgrasses soak up the sun and actively grow year-round in North Central Florida, though growth slows during the milder winter months.
\n\n\n\nAll types of grass are classified into one of two categories:
\n\n\n\nThe following warm-season grass types are perfectly suited for the climatic and soil conditions of Ocala:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Starr-070906-8535-Stenotaphrum_secundatum-habit-Kula_Ace_Hardware_and_Nursery-Maui_24264673843.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is native to warm coastal regions. It is the most popular Florida turfgrass and the most shade-tolerant. St. Augustinegrass has a dense appearance and deep roots. The quick-growing variety is easy to establish and moderately salt tolerant. Unfortunately, it does not stand up well to herbicides or heavy traffic.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is coarse-textured and blue-green in color. The most readily available Florida cultivars are Bitterblue, Classic, and Floratam, though Floratam has poor shade tolerance compared to other cultivars. All cultivars are susceptible to disease and pests like chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to gray leaf spot, large patch, and take-all root rot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; prone to chinch bugs, cutworms, mole crickets, grass loopers, army worms, web worms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bahia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass thrives in sandy soils. The low-maintenance cultivar loves to be left alone, requiring minimal water and fertilizer. It is less dense than other varieties, but its deep root system persists better in infertile soils, making it a great choice for lawns without irrigation systems, pastures, and horse farms.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass grows quickly in full sun. It does not stand up well to heavy traffic. The light green turfgrass is coarse-textured with a sparse growth habit.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Growth rate is moderate to high, so plan to mow often during the growing season
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; susceptible to dollar spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; mole crickets are sometimes a problem
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown in the Gulf Coast and Southeastern U.S; does best in acidic soils — not the best grass if your soils are naturally alkaline; doesn’t tolerate saltwater well
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_4pexels-rovenimagescom-949584.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is another common Florida grass that grows aggressively in full sun and recovers quickly from damage. The hardy turfgrass ranges from coarse to fine-textured, depending on the cultivar. It is salt and drought-tolerant and stands up to heavy foot traffic, making it a popular choice for golf courses, home lawns, and athletic fields.
\n\n\n\nOcala is home to common and hybrid bermudagrass varieties. Common bermudagrass has a light green color and coarse texture, while hybrid cultivars have a finer texture and dark green appearance. Hybrid varieties require more maintenance than common bermudagrass, but they are more dense forming a carpet-like layer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease; prone to spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, and sheath spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance; prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, army worms, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass stands up to anything Floridians throw at it. This turfgrass tolerates drought, low mow heights, shade, heavy traffic, and even lower temperatures. New cultivars have increased disease and pest resistance. The warm-season variety has low fertilization requirements and grows densely, blocking out weeds with its thick leaf blades.
\n\n\n\nZoysia japonica and Zoysia matrella are two popular cultivars of Zoysiagrass in Ocala. These cultivars are not prone to disease or insects and grow slowly. The attractive turfgrass has a dense appearance and dark green color.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, army worms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is the best pet-friendly grass variety. It is resilient and stands up to heavy traffic, making it ideal for your furry family members.
You should plant your grass seed in April through July. This gives the seed a full growing season before the cooler winter temperatures set in .
St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-friendly grass type for Ocala.
Warm-season grass varieties are the best option for your Ocala lawn. They are suited to North Central Florida’s unique USDA Zone, 9a. All turfgrasses have their own characteristics, so be sure to choose a variety that works well for your lifestyle and your yard’s unique microclimate.
\n\n\n\nThere are numerous landscaping options for Ocala thanks to its year-round warm weather. If you are looking to spruce up your home landscape, check out our list of the best native plants and set your lawn off on the right foot with our spring lawn care tips.
\n\n\n\nConquer Ocala’s humid climate. Contact a lawn care pro in your area today to help you maintain a green and healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Ocala Historic District005 / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Ocala, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/1789c/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/107df/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/293e9/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/f2cbb/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/1789c/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/c26c2/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/1dd6e/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/67b76/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp 320w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/8df11/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp 500w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/98a65/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp 800w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/1dd6e/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp 960w,\n/static/3e4788c65e916248aab180c8999aa7db/3cc96/Lawn-in-Ocala-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Ocala, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season grasses are the best choice for Ocala, and St. Agustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, bahiagrass and bermudagrass are the four best options."}}},{"node":{"id":"cf09f31a-c77d-5f01-ab0d-260ebb7a1881","slug":"best-native-plants-baton-rouge","path":"/lawn-care/la/baton-rouge/best-native-plants-baton-rouge/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Judith Gallova","id":"8e48e42f-071a-5523-a889-6dab4c49dd54","path":"/author/judith-gallova/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/537ca09b018493e40c3fb0df17ebacbe?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"d1d6935d-c1c2-53e6-93e2-8203b0f7327d","name":"Baton Rouge","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/la/baton-rouge/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"8e5263e2-95b5-572d-8061-a1a1afa1a8c2","name":"Louisiana","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/la/"}],"date":"April 17th, 2023","excerpt":"Baton Rouge is a natural wonderland brimming with scenic parks, serene lakes, and bucolic countryside. If you want to replicate that beauty outside your front door, consider incorporating some of the native plants that make Baton Rouge so irresistible in the first place. Read on to discover the best native plants for Baton Rouge and […]
\n","content":"\nBaton Rouge is a natural wonderland brimming with scenic parks, serene lakes, and bucolic countryside. If you want to replicate that beauty outside your front door, consider incorporating some of the native plants that make Baton Rouge so irresistible in the first place.
\n\n\n\nRead on to discover the best native plants for Baton Rouge and the benefits they can provide.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nIf you want a great landscape but don’t want to spend endless days caring for it, natives are the obvious choice. They offer a number of benefits:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Hibiscus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Quartl / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nHibiscus may remind you of a tropical vacation, but it’s actually a Louisiana native, and there are many varieties to choose from. This fabulous shrub or tree comes in various colors and can turn any garden into a vibrant butterfly oasis.
\n\n\n\nHibiscus can grow up to 10 feet. If you want to contain it, make sure you prune it in the spring. It grows in medium-to-wet average soil and hot and humid weather. If you want it to thrive, let it get exposed to full sun; just be careful not to let it dry out.
\n\n\n\nSome types of hibiscus, such as the Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), are toxic if consumed, so exercise caution with children and pets.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nHardiness zones: 5-9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: High
\n\n\n\nSoil: Average, clay, moist, well-draining
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 7 to 10 feet; Dwarf varieties grow to an average of 3 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Some types, such as Hibiscus syriacus, are toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Louisiana-Phlox.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThe Louisiana phlox, also known as woodland phlox, blue phlox, and wild sweet William, is a delicate wildflower that likes the shade and is commonly found growing between forest trees. It produces petals in a variety of colors that attract hummingbirds and butterflies. You can plant Louisiana phlox under a tree in your yard if you want to add some color to a shady area.
\n\n\n\nRabbits like to munch on the plant’s roots, but this can happen with nearly any plant. You can use repellents to keep them away, although they may not always be effective. If you want to go an extra step to protect your phlox from rabbits, you can use fine-mesh fencing or plant it in a raised flower bed. Additionally, make sure you cut back the plant’s stems after it flowers to protect it from powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nPhlox plants are typically not toxic, but little is known specifically about the effects of the Louisiana phlox. As such, it’s best to err on the side of caution.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
Hardiness zones: 3 to 8
Sun: Partial shade to full shade
Water needs: Moderate
Soil: Rich, moist, sandy loam, clay loam, slightly acidic
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 6 to 12 inches
Potential hazards: Lack of data, so be cautious
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Black-Eyed-Susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan is a stunning, delicate wildflower. Its bright yellow petals not only look great, but they also attract butterflies.
\n\n\n\nAlthough you’ll need to wait around a year to see the first flowers, the wait will be well worth it; once black-eyed Susan blooms, its blossoms last for months. Moreover, the plant is low-maintenance and adaptable; it tolerates heat, drought, and cold. It can also thrive in various planting zones.
\n\n\n\nThis plant is toxic to animals, so keep them a safe distance away. There isn’t much data regarding its toxicity to humans, but it can cause allergic reactions and asthma when touched and consumed, so enjoy it with your eyes only. Gloves and suitable clothing are advisable for handling the plant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Wildflower
Hardiness zones: 3 to 7
Sun: Full sun to partial shade
Water needs: Moderate
Soil: Average, well-draining, acidic
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 3 feet
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Taxodium_Distichum_Bald_Cypress_28894599385.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Treeworld Wholesale / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe bald cypress is the official state tree of Louisiana and can live up to 600 years. It’s also known for its unusual habit of growing “knees” from its roots. Their purpose is unknown, but they’re believed to help the tree breathe in swampy areas. Furthermore, the bald cypress is flood-tolerant. It does best in moist, sandy, and slightly acidic soil, although it can also live in average soil. But if the soil is too alkaline, there’s a risk of chlorosis.
\n\n\n\nBeing yellow-green in summer and orange-brown in the fall, this tree adds nice color to your garden. As a bonus, its seeds provide food for animals like birds and squirrels.
\n\n\n\nHowever, there isn’t much known about the bald cypress’s toxicity, and it may be harmful to your pets. As a safety measure, make sure neither you nor your pets consume the plant or its cones.
\n\n\n\nHardiness zones: 7 to 11
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil: Average, well-draining
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 3 feet; up to 9 feet with flower stalk
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Lack of data regarding toxicity; likely toxic for animals; avoid consuming any part of the plant and keep your animals from consuming it
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Hawthorn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tony Hisgett / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHawthorn is a small, charming tree that begins to blossom and bear fruit in the spring. It’s perfect for creating a shady spot in your yard as well as providing food for pollinators and songbirds. It’s also a fantastic option for a low-maintenance lawn. While hawthorn will thrive in well-drained loam and full sun, it can also grow in a range of soils and in both full sun and partial shade.
\n\n\n\nAs the name suggests, hawthorn has sharp thorns that grow along its branches. There is also a thornless variety, called the Thornless Cockspur Hawthorn, which is native to Northern America.
\n\n\n\nThere isn’t enough data about hawthorn toxicity, but it may be harmful to vulnerable people, including children, pregnant and nursing women, and those with medical conditions. It’s also harmful to vulnerable animals.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
Hardiness zones: 5 to 9
Sun: Full sun to partial shade
Water needs: Low
Soil: Well-draining, loam, clay
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 25 to 30 feet
Potential hazards: Harmful for some people and animals; speak to a professional before consuming
![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Louisiana-Iris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nThe vibrant purple petals of the Louisiana iris used to grow in abundance throughout the state. Sadly, its population has dwindled in recent years because of herbicides, development, and saltwater. But this lovely plant can still make its home in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLouisiana iris naturally grows in swamps and bogs, so it’s perfect for water features. Although you don’t need to keep the plant constantly soaked in water, you also don’t need to worry about overwatering it. You should lay a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to protect your Louisiana iris, because its rhizomes lie close to the soil surface.
\n\n\n\nLouisiana iris is poisonous and should not be eaten, so exercise caution.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
Hardiness zones: 4 to 9
Sun: Full sun
Water needs: High
Soil: Rich, slightly acidic
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 24 to 36 inches
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Gulf-Coast-Yucca.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nGulf Coast yucca is an evergreen shrub with a bunch of beautiful, summer-blooming flowers surrounded by long leaves. It’s happy in various soil types and either full sun or partial shade. Although the Gulf Coast yucca needs to be watered, it should never sit in water.
\n\n\n\nSometimes, yucca plants become infested with yucca plant bugs. These are small, red and black bugs that feed on its juices. Products like neem will make short work of them, though.
\n\n\n\nGulf Coast yucca is toxic, and its leaves are sharp, so be cautious. Wear gloves and suitable clothing to protect yourself when you handle the plant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
Hardiness zones: 7 to 11
Sun: Full sun to partial sun
Water needs: Low to moderate
Soil: Average, well-draining
Duration: Perennial
Mature height: 2 to 3 feet; up to 9 feet with flower stalk
Potential hazards: Toxic
![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Crossvine-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: gailhampshire / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCrossvine, also known as the trumpet flower, is an evergreen vine with lovely, yellow-orange blossoms produced in clusters of two to five. It’s also a favorite of the ruby-throated hummingbird.
\n\n\n\nAlthough the plant is tolerant to a variety of soil types, it grows best in soil that’s rich in organic matter. Six hours of daily sunlight can help to ensure that your crossvine will thrive. A little shade is fine, but expect to see fewer flowers. Moreover, crossvine has a tendency to spread too much, so be sure to contain it.
\n\n\n\nTake note that crossvine is a toxic plant, so you’ll need to practice caution.
\n\n\n\nHardiness zones: 7 to 11
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial sun
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil: Average, well-draining
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 3 feet; up to 9 feet with flower stalk
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"azalea](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pxfuel.com-3-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nAzalea is a vibrant flowering plant that can make a great addition to your Baton Rouge lawn. Its gorgeous blossoms come in a range of colors that last from February to May. They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nThe plant needs regular watering in warm weather, but too much moisture or sun is unsuitable for it. You can improve your soil drainage by topdressing with compost and sand. A filtered canopy from your garden trees can work well to protect your azalea plants.
\n\n\n\nBut be sure to practice caution, because azalea is toxic.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nHardiness zones: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-draining, acidic (4.5-6.0 pH)
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nMature height: 4 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\nThis is just a small sample of the plants that are native to Baton Rouge. When you look for the right plants for your landscape, make sure you consider everything from their appearance to their maintenance needs and potential hazards.
\n\n\n\nAs you’ve read above, some plants carry more hazards than others. But take note that just because a plant doesn’t have known hazards doesn’t mean it’s risk-free. If you have pets, you shouldn’t let them consume any of the plants in your yard unless you’re sure they’re pet-safe (or, specifically, dog-safe, if you’re a dog owner). You should consult a medical professional if you’re unsure about the effects of a plant or its fruit.
\n\n\n\nOne more thing to consider is Baton Rouge’s hardiness zone. Baton Rouge has a hardiness zone of 8b and 9a, meaning that its lowest temperatures range between 15 and 25 degrees Fahrenheit depending on the area. We’ve included the hardiness zone of each plant in the descriptions above, so you can check your area’s hardiness zone and make sure it’s a match for the plant you want.
\n\n\n\nYou might see beautiful native plant species in the wild. But if you do, make sure you only appreciate them with your eyes; don’t try to dig them up or take them home with you. Taking native plants directly from the wild can be harmful to ecosystems.
\n\n\n\nInstead, you can find native plants for sale at local nurseries, such as:
\n\n\n\nThere’s a lot that goes into picking the right native plants for your lawn, but it doesn’t end there. You should also learn about the best grass types for Baton Rouge and how to best care for your lawn each season.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to make things easier for yourself, there are various techniques that will take some of the time and effort out of maintaining your yard. Some examples of those are xeriscaping, adding hardscapes, or including potted plants. Does it still sound like a lot of work? Don’t worry. There are many professional lawn care services available that can help you achieve a picturesque yard.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Melissa McMasters / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Best Native Plants for Your Baton Rouge Landscape","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/1789c/crossvine.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/107df/crossvine.jpg 320w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/293e9/crossvine.jpg 500w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/f2cbb/crossvine.jpg 800w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/1789c/crossvine.jpg 960w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/c26c2/crossvine.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/1dd6e/crossvine.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/67b76/crossvine.webp 320w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/8df11/crossvine.webp 500w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/98a65/crossvine.webp 800w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/1dd6e/crossvine.webp 960w,\n/static/3ee757efd1cc8b20e7bc5435d1e57426/3cc96/crossvine.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Best Native Plants for Your Baton Rouge Landscape | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you want a stunning yard but don’t know where to start, consider using native plants that look great and thrive in Baton Rouge’s unique climate"}}},{"node":{"id":"1bb85753-2311-561e-877f-9f400556d157","slug":"best-grass-types-california","path":"/lawn-care/ca/best-grass-types-california/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"d4a57f5d-7087-5464-8fbc-e03c067b9723","name":"California","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ca/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"From Eureka to Palm Springs, homeowners all over California seek picturesque lawns to complement their landscaping. But what grass should you choose? While it depends on your specific region, some grass types do well in large portions of the state. The best grass types for California will survive and thrive in local conditions. Let’s break […]
\n","content":"\nFrom Eureka to Palm Springs, homeowners all over California seek picturesque lawns to complement their landscaping. But what grass should you choose? While it depends on your specific region, some grass types do well in large portions of the state.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types for California will survive and thrive in local conditions. Let’s break down the pros and cons of each grass type, including which part of the state they can grow in.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nGrass types break down into two categories based on growth patterns: cool-season and warm-season. Cool-season grasses do best in the northern part of the United States, and warm-season grasses do best in the southern part. In the middle is the transition zone, where you can grow either type.
\n\n\n\nSince California is a large state, it spans the cool-season, transition, and warm-season zones. Cool-season grasses grow in northern, central, and coastal regions. Warm-season grasses grow in southern and central California.
\n\n\n\nWhile those in the far north or south of the state may be limited to either cool or warm-season grasses, most of California can grow either. Here are some critical differences between cool- and warm-season grasses to consider.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Agrostis_pallens_turf.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ruff tuff cream puff / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are multiple types of bentgrass available in California. Due to its high maintenance, creeping bentgrass is usually reserved for golf courses and lawn tennis courts. However, California native bentgrass is more suitable for home lawns. It has a medium texture, uniform growth pattern, and deep green color. It also is known as Agrostis pallens or seashore bentgrass.
\n\n\n\nCalifornia native bentgrass requires half the water of typical cool-season grasses. When faced with heavy foot traffic, its self-repairing rhizomes will heal damage. Plant it in full sun for the best growth. You can mow native bentgrass like a traditional lawn or grow it into a meadow. If you cut it back down after growing it out, gradually lower the mowing height to avoid damage.
\n\n\n\nThough California native bentgrass has many advantages, its slow growth may deter some people. Its seeds establish slowly, and sod is pricier than other cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; you can mow it or let it grow out
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-8
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Any soil with good drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass can be mowed or left long and meadow-like. It is best suited for coastal areas.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis state may not be Kentucky, but this grass can still grow well in Northern and Central California. Kentucky bluegrass is deep green with a medium texture. It creates a dense turf.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type grows well from fall through spring and needs moderate maintenance. It has an excellent cold tolerance, which makes it suitable for the intermountain west. Plant it in yards with full sun or some shade. Though Kentucky bluegrass is vulnerable to traffic damage, it will self-repair.
\n\n\n\nSummer is the slowest growing season for this grass. It will survive droughts by going dormant but become vulnerable to weeds and diseases if stressed by heat, dehydration, and poor soil quality. Kentucky bluegrass is often mixed with at least 15% perennial ryegrass to improve its performance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate, but will survive by going dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency; a high-maintenance grass
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, fertile
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Produces a dense lawn under ideal conditions; many of these traits (shade tolerance, drought resistance, etc.) vary widely by cultivar, with newer cultivars generally being hardier, more resistant to disease, etc.; mow taller in summer; most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRich green and fine-textured perennial ryegrass is commonly mixed with other turfgrasses but also can be used on its own. It’s primarily found in Northern and Central California, with some viability in Southern California. It does exceptionally well in the moderate temperatures of coastal California.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type is moderate to high maintenance, depending on your desired mowing height. Due to its quick germination, perennial ryegrass is competitive against weeds and tolerates traffic well. You can plant it in full sun or partial shade. Since it is a cool-season grass, it has an excellent cold tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSome people use perennial ryegrass to improve the performance of Kentucky bluegrass lawns or preserve the color of bermudagrass lawns in winter. However, perennial ryegrass’ competitive growth could lead to it overpowering other grass types. It has a low tolerance for shade, heat, and drought.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low (may go dormant in summer)
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but poor recuperative ability
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing requirement, depending on cutting height (lower cutting heights require more frequent mowing)
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile with good drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Most often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass in a cool-season mix; well known for its excellent striping ability, low mowing tolerance (reel mower fans, this one’s for you), and rapid germination rate (four to seven days). It needs moderate levels of fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis grass is the most common turfgrass in the state. It has a coarse texture, but the turf-type and dwarf-type tall fescue varieties have a finer texture and shorter height.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue has a relatively good heat and drought tolerance for cool-season grass. It stays green in warm and cool weather but may turn brown in severe cold. Sunny or partially sunny yards are ideal for growth. When densely sown, this grass will have a uniform texture and strong resistance to diseases and weeds.
\n\n\n\nThough it can handle moderate traffic, it won’t fill in damaged patches due to its bunch-type growth habit. Reseed the lawn if you see thinning or bare spots. Tall fescue doesn’t grow well in high altitudes, so don’t use it if you live in the mountains.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate, but low ability to recuperate from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Fast rate of growth, so plan to mow often
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side); do not mow less than 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate under proper management conditions
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile, good drainage, but will tolerate a wider range of soil conditions
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Reseed every few years to repair bare spots and thinning; don’t plant old varieties such as Kentucky-31; look for “turf-type” tall fescue (TTTF). Seed blends with more than one TTTF cultivar give the best chance for a strong lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDepending on the variety, bermudagrass ranges from gray-green to blue-green to dark green, with a fine to medium texture. It loves the warm weather of Southern California and the Central California coast.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is prepared to handle full sun, high temperatures, and drought. It’s an excellent choice for coastal properties due to its salinity tolerance. Due to its resilience to foot traffic, this grass is popular with families and pet owners. Its fast-growing nature allows it to withstand diseases and pests.
\n\n\n\nCold and shade will weaken this grass and leave it vulnerable to weeds and traffic damage. Long periods of cold weather will leave it brown, which makes it less suitable for Northern California. It also may pose problems in its active growth period. Many varieties require frequent mowing, fertilization, and dethatching. Without edging, it could spread to nearby gardens or yards.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases like spring dead spot are common; low resistance to insects like bermudagrass mites, dichondra flea beetles, and fiery skippers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"California](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/UC-Verde-Buffalograss-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis grass type has a fine texture and grayish-green color. Buffalograss is native to North American Plains but can do well in California. Researchers at UC Davis and UC Riverside developed the UC Verde variety to suit this state’s hot, dry summers.
\n\n\n\nUC Verde buffalograss is very low-maintenance with good resistance to diseases and pests. It requires at least 50% less water than tall fescue and bermudagrass. You can mow as often as once a week or as infrequently as once a year, depending on how manicured or natural you want it to look. UC Verde is allergy-friendly due to the low number of seedheads produced.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss won’t die if you walk over it sometimes or hold the occasional backyard event, but it’s not a good choice if you expect lots of activity on your lawn. It’s also not suited for shady yards. Buffalograss may turn brown and dormant in winter and in summer drought but will recover well. Expect to pay a higher-than-average price whether you buy seed or sod.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low — best suited for full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low, but light use or rare heavy use is OK
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency — once per week or less
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches or leave unmowed; UC Verde doesn’t grow taller than 4-6 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good tolerance against diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers soils that aren’t sandy
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Buffalograss often turns brown in winter. Because of its few flowerheads, it produces little pollen and seeds, making it suitable for those with allergies.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you live on the SoCal coast or in the coastal valleys, consider St. Augustinegrass. It produces a dense lawn with broad leaves and a medium green color.
\n\n\n\nThis grass has few weeds and pest problems. It also can handle drought and salinity. St. Augustinegrass thrives in moderate temperatures and grows most in summer, with slow growth in spring and fall and dormancy in winter. It is one of the best warm-season grasses for shady yards but will do best in full sun.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass isn’t ideal for the cold northernmost regions of California. It requires frequent mowing, fertilization, and dethatching to keep it healthy. This grass is better for decorative lawns than high-use ones due to low traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; watch out for iron deficiency, fiery skippers, and Southern chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass creates dense, uniform, prickly turf. It has a medium to fine texture and dark green color. It does well in Southern California and the coasts of Central and Northern California.
\n\n\n\nThis low-maintenance has few pest problems and resists drought, heat, and foot traffic. The most drought-tolerant variety is Zoysia japonica. Though Zoysiagrass needs little fertilizer, fall fertilization can improve its typically brown winter color. Plant it in full sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass establishes slowly, but the “DeAnza,” “El Toro,” “Emerald,” and “Victoria” varieties establish quicker. Use sod instead of plugs if you want an instant lawn. This grass type requires moderate mowing to avoid scalping. Dethatch yearly to avoid matting. A thatch-filled Zoysiagrass lawn will be challenging to mow evenly.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall; watch out for nematodes
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining; some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if the grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\nCalifornia not only has a diverse culture but a diverse climate. You can narrow your turfgrass choices by general regions, such as Northern, Central, and Southern.
\n\n\n\nThe grass types listed under each region will work in most of that area. However, it doesn’t necessarily mean every city will be well-suited for those grass types or that you can’t use other grass types. For example, you will still need to consider whether you live by the ocean, inland, or in the mountains, as growing conditions will vary greatly.
\n\n\n\nSeashore bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and tall fescue can stay green all year in California. These grasses may need irrigation to maintain their color year-round. Severe temperatures and drought also may cause lawns to turn brown and dormant.
The most heat-tolerant grass types in California include tall fescue, Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss. Keep in mind that heat tolerance does not always equal drought tolerance. Just because a lawn can handle a heat wave doesn’t mean it won’t want water.
If you don’t want to spend all your time mowing, fertilizing, and irrigating your lawn, consider seashore bentgrass, UC Verde buffalograss, or Zoysiagrass.
The most drought-tolerant grass types in California are bentgrass, bermudagrass, buffalograss, and Zoysiagrass.
Turfgrasses and other plants do best when they’re well-adapted to the area. California native plants are more likely to be low-maintenance and fire-resistant than non-native plants. That said, non-native plants can still be adapted to the California climate and suit your needs.
\n\n\n\nEven when broken down into Northern, Southern, and Central, California has many climates and soil types. Your property may face unique challenges that make landscaping by yourself difficult or time-consuming.
A local lawn care or landscaping professional can take yard chores off your to-do list and provide grass and plant recommendations based on your unique needs. Wikilawn can connect you with pros in Los Angeles, San Jose, Bakersfield, and many other California cities.
Main Photo Credit: Sonoma Plaza / Carlton A. Lear / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"8 Best Grass Types for California","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4796547472256474,"src":"/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/1789c/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg","srcSet":"/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/107df/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg 320w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/293e9/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg 500w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/f2cbb/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg 800w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/1789c/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg 960w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/c26c2/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/1dd6e/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/67b76/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp 320w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/8df11/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp 500w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/98a65/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp 800w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/1dd6e/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp 960w,\n/static/9a8d42ef28448436d946885b593e8bf1/3cc96/Sonoma-Plaza-in-Sonoma-California-a-registered-national-historical-landmark..webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Best Grass Types for California","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"The best grass types for California depend on which part of the state you live in. We’ll break down the pros and cons of each of the eight turfgrasses."}}},{"node":{"id":"35e6a194-7d4a-5b96-8183-f1aad6b7a865","slug":"when-to-fertilize-your-lawn-in-delaware","path":"/lawn-care/de/when-to-fertilize-your-lawn-in-delaware/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Farah Nauman is a freelance writer and an accountant based in Pakistan. She spends most of her time combating the South Asian heat and being a mom to her three fluffy cats and a dozen little Aloe Veras in her house.","name":"Farah Nauman","id":"26059a96-5dc7-50a2-8fe4-f35b865ab4a8","path":"/author/farah-nauman/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6ec8e652d318d98583d29f520928b219?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"0ce95d41-82d7-5ce1-a6c9-4942e40ae6b9","name":"Delaware","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/de/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 15th, 2023","excerpt":"Delaware’s classic, four-season climate makes it hard for many of us to figure out lawn management. Worry not. All you have to do is master the most crucial routine – fertilization. Learning when to fertilize your Delaware lawn and using the right kind of product will help you create a strong, healthy, and lush green […]
\n","content":"\nDelaware’s classic, four-season climate makes it hard for many of us to figure out lawn management. Worry not. All you have to do is master the most crucial routine – fertilization. Learning when to fertilize your Delaware lawn and using the right kind of product will help you create a strong, healthy, and lush green lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe traditional approach is to combine fertilization with other lawn care tasks, such as raking, aeration, mowing, weeding, etc., in the springtime. But this practice isn’t ideal for Delaware lawns. Fall is the right time to fertilize your lawn here so it has all the nutrition it needs for the winter and grows generously the following spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will learn about fertilization in depth:
\n\n\n\nNo matter what kind of plants you’re feeding, scheduling the correct timing will set them for success or failure in the coming season. The right time to fertilize your lawn depends on many factors, including the climate, light exposure, soil type and pH, plant types in your lawn, and more.
\n\n\n\nA good practice for most lawns is to fertilize at least twice a year to ensure good overall health. To be safe, you can remember this rule of thumb: Apply lawn fertilizer when the grass is actively growing. For Delaware lawns with cool-season grasses, this time is early fall or early spring, when the temperatures are still a bit chilly.
\n\n\n\nApplying fertilizer in the wrong season can encourage tender new growth that easily gets damaged, encourages weed growth, or simply burns your lawngrass. Early leaf development will simply give you a vulnerable lawn. A few general rules to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nKnowing the right time to fertilize isn’t enough. There are 4 R’s of nutrient stewardship that should guide fertilizer application for any lawn, advocated by many agricultural conservationists.
\n\n\n\nGetting all four R’s right fosters a beneficial environment for your plants and wildlife. For fertilizer, remember that more is not always better.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: schulzie / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nBefore we get to the monthly lawn fertilization schedule for your Delaware lawn, here are a few pointers to remember.
\n\n\n\nSomething you need to know before you start is how grass utilizes its nutrients. Lawn grass uses more energy for root growth in the fall and puts energy into growing leaves in the spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you fertilize your lawn when it’s focused on top growth – spring – you basically just push the grass leaves to grow faster and taller, translating into more mowing. On the other hand, fertilizing in the fall promotes a healthy and deep root system that encourages grass to spread by tillers.
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is a major nutrient that contributes to the health of grass plants. It’s a mineral fuels hungry and growing plants. It also boosts chlorophyll production and contributes to a darker, deeper, more emerald-green grass color.
\n\n\n\nNitrogen enters the grass plant through its root system. You can see new shoots appear within hours of nitrogen application. This is why you will likely need to mow more after you apply high-nitrogen fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nNitrogen gives strength to the roots and supports strong shoot growth and makes up a major portion of most types of fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns need to be fed twice a year – once in early spring and once in the fall. The same goes for lawns in Delaware. But, lawn care experts recommend applying 65 to 75% of the total amount of nitrogen fertilizer your lawn needs between September and November.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a timeline that can help keep track of what your lawn eats:
\n\n\n\nYour lawn needs three major nutrients. These are:
\n\n\n\nAnd there are different types of fertilizers that your Delaware lawn may need:
\n\n\n\nSingle-ingredient, as the name suggests, contains only one primary plant nutrient. It targets the specific needs of plants at different developmental stages. It is free from fillers as well – no wood ash, marl, lime, manure, limestone, or other materials.
\n\n\n\nSo, you can get nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium fertilizers to treat a single problem or boost a certain quality in your Delaware lawn. For example, if your lawn has winter damage, potassium fertilizer will aid plant growth and healthy recovery. Potassium helps to synthesize proteins and starches and assists with nutrient and water uptake.
\n\n\n\nThese fertilizers contain all three nutrients in different percentages. Every combination fertilizer comes with a number/letter code that corresponds to the nutrients inside. You can see N-P-K or nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium coordinate with their percentage found in the fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nFor example, a 20-5-10 mixture means the presence of 20% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 10% potassium whereas the remaining percentage includes inert filler that aids in even application. This would be classified as a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYou can pick from a variety of fertilizer ratios depending on what your lawn soil needs and the type of grass. Commonly Delaware soil works well with 10-10-10, 20-5-10, or 6-6-18 fertilizer mixtures.
\n\n\n\nThis type of fertilizer releases nutrients rapidly into the soil. Typically, quick-release fertilizers are water soluble and show immediate results.
\n\n\n\nTypically, you have to apply soluble fertilizers more than once for them to show effect since they dissolve quickly and plants may not take up all the available goodness.
\n\n\n\nYour Delaware lawn might need a quick-release fertilizer if you need a quick response. For instance, you’re building a new lawn and want it to green up quickly or you want the top growth to be aggressive enough to block weeds. However, soluble fertilizers aren’t always a good idea because they can encourage too much growth, too fast.
\n\n\n\nThe most suitable type of fertilizer for Delaware soils is slow-release. These fertilizers discharge all their nutrients slowly and over time, making sure your ground always has nitrogen available for growth. They are water-insoluble and dissolve slowly.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release formulas are easier to distribute evenly in the lawn, especially if you’re applying granular variety, and assist in a more paced growth. They are designed to release by weathering, water penetration, or microbial action at a rate that is consistent with the grass’s needs.
\n\n\n\nThese fertilizers are good for regular maintenance. Typically, only one application of slow-release fertilizer is enough and also proves cost-effective for many homeowners.
\n\n\n\nGrass is classified into two categories based on the climate they are adapted to:
\n\n\n\nDelaware is located in the transition zone and typically favors cool-season grasses including Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall fescue, Bentgrass, and Perennial Ryegrass. These grasses take the majority of the nutrition they need in the fall to prepare for winter and recover from summer stress. Mostly, they just need nitrogen to encourage growth and develop a nice green color.
\n\n\n\nThe only warm-season grass that can make do in Delaware is Zoysiagrass due to its hardy nature. A closer look at different grass types and their fertilization needs:
\n\n\n\nThis is a fast-growing cool-season grass that comes with unique fertilizer needs. Kentucky bluegrass is pretty prone to fertilizer burns. You need to be careful when, how, and what type of fertilizer you apply to it.
\n\n\n\nA general guide for fertilizer application on Kentucky bluegrass lawns in Delaware:
\n\n\n\nThis cool-season turfgrass thrives in transition zones. It’s a highly drought-tolerant grass that requires little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a low-maintenance turf choice for lawns and sports fields. Thanks to its deep roots, this grass type is pretty resilient and holds up well to dry conditions.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial, cool-season grass is typically used as a part of a seed mix for golf courses, home lawns, and fields. Bentgrass is a creeping grass that develops fine blades and is considered a high-maintenance grass type. It is susceptible to nutrient deficiencies too.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/person-sreading-fertilizer.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nWho doesn’t like a green, thick lawn? But you need to consider the impact of your lawn management practices on the environment. This includes water waste, chemical pollution, emissions from the production of synthetic herbicides, and more.
\n\n\n\nSeveral studies and research show that a mindful approach to lawn fertilization can reduce the dangers of climate change. A properly maintained lawn does not require immediate remedies and saves you from using harsh, environmentally-unfriendly products to bring it back to life.
\n\n\n\nFollow these tips to fertilize your lawn more responsibly and minimize nutrient loss:
\n\n\n\nKeeping track of the right time, fertilizer type, ratio, application technique, and quantity can be too much. Don’t worry, our local pros in Delaware are fully qualified and equipped to discuss, advise, and fertilize your lawn for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"When to Fertilize Your Lawn in Delaware","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/1789c/fertilize-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/107df/fertilize-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/293e9/fertilize-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/f2cbb/fertilize-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/1789c/fertilize-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/c26c2/fertilize-grass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/1dd6e/fertilize-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/67b76/fertilize-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/8df11/fertilize-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/98a65/fertilize-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/1dd6e/fertilize-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/a6faba517709b798718d1b89c658e296/3cc96/fertilize-grass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When to Fertilize Your Lawn in Delaware | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Timing is important when fertilizing your lawn. Learn the best time to fertilize your lawn in Delaware and unlock its full potential."}}},{"node":{"id":"85d82e74-d7c3-5783-9dfa-75279100daa5","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-little-rock","path":"/lawn-care/ar/little-rock/spring-lawn-care-tips-little-rock/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"31b8d887-3e55-503a-9ba9-8fac7d950ccf","name":"Arkansas","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ar/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"3f184524-ced0-581e-a7ce-1d315593ccbf","name":"Little Rock","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ar/little-rock/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2023","excerpt":"Little Rock is unique. The metropolitan city experiences all four seasons. Centrally located, Little Rock has short but cold winters, leaving you more springtime than the average homeowner. Use this extra time to implement our 9 spring lawn care tips to help prepare your yard for backyard parties, barbecues, and the humid Arkansas summer. In […]
\n","content":"\nLittle Rock is unique. The metropolitan city experiences all four seasons. Centrally located, Little Rock has short but cold winters, leaving you more springtime than the average homeowner. Use this extra time to implement our 9 spring lawn care tips to help prepare your yard for backyard parties, barbecues, and the humid Arkansas summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nSpring is all about new beginnings. It is a transformative time, and the springs in Little Rock are warm and extremely wet. From March to May, Arkansans tend to their warm-season grasses hoping to encourage fresh growth before the heat and humidity take over in June.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care in Arkansas is more than watering and mowing. As your yard goes through its green-up, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots that need some TLC. With the proper spring maintenance plan, you will set your yard up for success.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Mow more is probably the last thing you want to hear. It is tempting to mow our lawns short to make less work for ourselves. Unfortunately, for most grass types, cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury and weeds, and taller grass blades develop deeper roots.
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the spring. The city’s short winters give way to prolonged wet springs. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nBegin mowing your lawn when it turns green, typically beginning in April or May. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in spring, and never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nAlways aim to cut less, more often. You should mow every five to seven days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nUnlike centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass go dormant, turning brown, in the winter. Before the spring green-up, you can mow your lawn to remove dead leaf blades and reduce shading of fresh growth and increase soil temperatures.
\n\n\n\nBegin mowing normally when your lawn turns green in April or May, following the recommended height for your grass type. Mow often, every five to seven days, and never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf blade. Like other warm-season varieties, leave clippings on the lawn to act as fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 2.5 inches |
![\"Small](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/water-sprinkler.jpg\")
Lawns seldom need irrigating thanks to the rainy Little Rock springs, and this applies to all turfgrass varieties unless your lawn is brand new. If hot, dry, or windy conditions occur for an extended period, begin a watering regimen in April or May, aiming for 1 inch of water per week for all varieties.
\n\n\n\nIf you notice a dark blue-gray color, foot-printing, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves, your lawn needs water no matter what variety it is.
\n\n\n\nThe humid conditions in Arkansas create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi. Maintain a healthy lawn with routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization schedules, and diseases won’t stand a chance. Some of the most common diseases affecting Arkansas turfgrasses are large patch, gray leaf spot, dollar spot, and spring dead spot.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that affects St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. Resist the urge to reach for a fungicide and call it a day. The most effective method to control and prevent large patch is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nGrey leaf spot is another turfgrass fungus affecting St. Augustinegrass in Little Rock. Watch for grass that appears yellow, mottled, or scorched. Treat gray leaf spot with proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nReduce or remove thatch and improve air circulation. Do not apply post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active and avoid fertilization. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects bermudagrass. It is extremely common in the Southeast and is caused by a fungus living in Arkansas soils. Keep an eye out for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nTreat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer. Additionally, minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage and watering deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nSpring dead spot is another soil-dwelling fungus affecting bermudagrass in the Southeast. Watch for circular patches of dead grass ranging in diameter from 6 inches to several feet. The easiest way to spot spring dead spot is to monitor your lawn during its active green-up phase. Areas affected by spring dead spot will not go through the green-up process.
\n\n\n\nTreat spring dead spot by removing thatch and aggressively aerating affected areas to relieve soil compaction. The dense, clay soils in Little Rock are prone to soil compaction, making spring dead spot incredibly common.
\n\n\n\n![\"Gloves,](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Little Rock’s wet spring climate creates the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds love to invade your lawn, signifying an underlying problem with its health. They thrive in low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf.
\n\n\n\nThe stealthy plant ninjas steal vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and plants while simultaneously spreading pests and diseases. You can stop weeds in their tracks and minimize the number that pops up come summer using pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination.
\n\n\n\nAlways wait three weeks after your grass has gone through its green-up. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early March to all turfgrass varieties to control crabgrass.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds typically become a nuisance during Little Rock summers. However, post-emergent herbicides target broadleaf weeds you can see, disrupting their growth, no matter the season. Never apply over two applications per year and always wait 30 days between applications.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common broadleaf weeds in Little Rock you might find in the spring:
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock springs are traditionally very wet, which deters most turfgrass pests. In the unlikely event of a dry spring, chinch bug infestation in St. Augustinegrass may occur. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nSoil provides nutrients for your grass to thrive. Unfortunately, Little Rock soils are notoriously nutrient deficient, requiring fertilization and other nutrient applications. Arkansas homeowners can send in a soil sample for free soil testing.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a core sample to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances, nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\nClay soils dominate in Central Arkansas. It is dense, compact, and nutrientless. Aeration is a common lawn method to combat compacted soil and introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns. There are two types of common aeration, core aeration and spike aeration. Aerate your lawn in late May or early June if you notice compacted soil.
\n\n\n\nAeration creates holes in the soil so it can breathe. A core aerator punches into the ground, removing plugs of soil to create small holes. Unfortunately, this method leaves the leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, which remain an eye sore until Mother Nature breaks them down.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for clay soils. These aerators do a better job of breaking through compacted soil to improve nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aeration is like core aeration, but less effective on severely compacted soils. Spike aerators rotate to punch small holes in the ground. Unlike core aeration, this method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no loss of aesthetic appeal.
\n\n\n\nNo one wants a thin and patchy lawn. The rainy spring conditions in Little Rock make it the prime time to seed or replant your lawn and encourage fresh growth.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and centipedegrass are low-maintenance cultivars that respond well to overseeding. Overseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Arkansas lawn in March, April, or May at least two months after applying a pre-emergent herbicide. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet for bermudagrass and centipedegrass varieties.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass do not respond to overseeding. Instead, plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in April or May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart. Water well daily and be sure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide that does not affect root growth to keep crabgrass at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Fertilizing.jpg\")
Fertilizer promotes healthy growth, but be careful, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape. The best time to apply fertilizer is after your lawn has gone through its green-up and before the Arkansas summer heat sets in. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your variety of turfgrass and your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn three weeks after it turns green, typically in late May. Apply 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.
\n\n\n\nUnlike other warm-season turfgrass, centipedegrass does not need nitrogen. Instead, apply iron three weeks after your lawn has turned green in May if you notice a yellow appearance.
\n\n\n\nYes. Fresh grass seed or sod plugs require more water than just the average spring rainfall in Little Rock. Aim to water your grass seed three times a day for the first week. During the second week, water two times per day, and in the third week, water once per day if it does not rain.
Organic mulch provides moisture retention and nutrients for your plants. Experts recommend laying new mulch on top of your existing mulch annually in the spring after the last frost. In Little Rock, lay a new layer of mulch anytime from March to May.
Warm-season grasses like the varieties in Little Rock take longer to germinate than cool-season grasses. It can take two months for your new lawn to grow long enough to require mowing and a full year before it is matured and dense.
Wet spring weather creates lush green backdrops for Little Rock homeowners. With the proper spring lawn care schedule, your yard can experience its green-up and glow-up in time for the humid summer months to set in.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, spring isn’t the only busy time for yard-loving Arkansans. Thanks to Little Rock’s four seasons, be sure to check out our fall lawn care checklist to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term lawn care maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and need help setting your landscape off on the right foot, contact a Little Rock lawn care pro to help you establish deep roots so your lawn can survive the humid summer.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Adam Bartlett / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Little Rock, AR","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1789c/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg","srcSet":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/107df/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 320w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/293e9/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 500w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/f2cbb/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 800w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1789c/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 960w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/c26c2/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1dd6e/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/67b76/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 320w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/8df11/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 500w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/98a65/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 800w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/1dd6e/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 960w,\n/static/36993bee1355633d50fa153cc70b2075/3cc96/Spring-Lawn-Care-Tips.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Little Rock, AR | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 9 valuable tips for maintaining a lush spring lawn in Little Rock and prepare your grass for the humid Arkansas summers."}}},{"node":{"id":"7d466487-679b-5f3e-8e63-5a35909ad337","slug":"drought-resistant-landscaping-montana","path":"/lawn-care/mt/drought-resistant-landscaping-montana/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"851f9dd2-d0b9-5a5b-a0a0-cf65224620d5","name":"Montana","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mt/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"Montana is rich in natural resources, wildlife, unique vegetation, and adventure. The Treasure State’s geographic diversity and altitudinal ranges create variable climates. Western Montana is mountainous, with cool summers and snowy winters, while central and eastern Montana experience warmer summers and cold winters. No matter where you live in Big Sky Country, there are drought-resistant […]
\n","content":"\nMontana is rich in natural resources, wildlife, unique vegetation, and adventure. The Treasure State’s geographic diversity and altitudinal ranges create variable climates. Western Montana is mountainous, with cool summers and snowy winters, while central and eastern Montana experience warmer summers and cold winters. No matter where you live in Big Sky Country, there are drought-resistant landscaping ideas that will help you conquer the dry conditions.
\n\n\n\nSwitching to drought-resistant landscaping means less time, effort, water, weeding, mowing, and pests. In steppe climates like Montana where average rainfall is less than 15 inches per year, water conservation is important.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n9 Drought-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana
\n\n\n\nFAQ About Drought-Resistant Landscaping in Montana
\n\n\n\n![\"Sagebrush](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/image-from-rawpixel-id-4033032-jpeg-1.jpg\"){kind=tracking}
Photo Credit: Rawpixel
\n\n\n\nNative plants support conservation efforts and promote a healthy ecosystem. They thrive in the summer heat and dry conditions while remaining cold-hardy enough to survive Montana’s harsh winters and snow. Native plants are hands-off, water efficient, and resistant to local insects and diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe vibrant, late-summer and early-fall blooms attract pollinating insects, while the dried stalks and leftover seed heads provide food and shelter for songbirds in the winter. From preferring full sun to part shade, they are the most low-maintenance and drought-resistant plants you can include in your landscaping project.
\n\n\n\nThere are many Montana native plants to choose from, including:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Native plant prices vary widely based on many factors, including type, size, and location. On average, you can expect to spend between $15 to $50 per shrub, $5 to $50 per vine, and $200 to $1,500 per tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"Light](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_16686130046_1524d40e6c_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Morefield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nDon’t let the vibrant flowers lining the shelves of your stores fool you. While inexpensive, these eye-catching blooms only remain beautiful for a short time. These landscape plants are annuals and only last one growing season before dying in the fall. If bright blooms make your heart sing, you can switch out your annuals for drought-tolerant and cold-resistant perennials.
\n\n\n\nPerennials bloom year after year, surviving the cold Montana winters. They have a shorter, more defined blooming season than annuals and are more expensive. However, these drought-tolerant plants withstand more extreme weather and come in many varieties, including shade-tolerant, deer-resistant, and low-maintenance wildflowers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, vines, and more.
\n\n\n\nIf you are ready for landscaping beauty that bounces back every year, check out some of the best perennials for the Treasure State:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of perennials:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Like native plants, the average cost of perennial plants varies depending on the size and type of plant, purchase location, and whether you are having a professional handle your landscaping. If you head to your local store to purchase your own perennials, you can expect to spend between $10 to $100 per plant.
\n\n\n\nHydrozones are a crucial component of drought-resistant landscape design. They are groupings of plants with similar soil, water, and sunlight needs. Hydrozoning reduces water use and protects your plants from being over or under-watered.
\n\n\n\nSome common Montana plant groupings include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hydrozoning:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: You can save money and DIY relocate your plants into groups based on their water needs. You can expect to spend between $15 to $50 per shrub, $5 to $50 per vine, and $200 to $1,500 per tree for fresh additions.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: christina rutz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMulch is a loose material typically made of inorganic or organic matter like compost, tree bark, wood chips, or rubber. It is an inexpensive DIY job that provides enormous benefits for your Montana landscape. Mulch helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and protect your plants’ roots from cold and heat.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch adds beneficial nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. Inorganic mulches are more durable and low-maintenance but do not offer additional nutrients. It is important to note you will need to replace organic mulches like wood chips annually with a fresh layer.
\n\n\n\nSome examples of mulch are:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: According to Lowes and Home Depot, wood mulch costs between $3 to $5 per 2-cubic-foot bag. Rubber mulch is more durable and expensive, costing around $8 to $10 per 0.8-cubic-foot bag. If your landscaping project requires a lot of mulch, you can often purchase it in bulk to save money.
\n\n\n\nMontana is incredibly dry across most of the state. While many native plants are adapted to the harsh conditions, Big Sky Country’s weather is unpredictable and unforgiving. Consider hardscaping your backyard to add sustainable visual interest while eliminating the need for weekly maintenance and watering.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are man-made features, including:
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are a set-it-and-forget-it choice for your landscape. They don’t require watering, pruning, or mowing. In fact, they don’t require maintenance at all except for an annual cleaning. Be prepared. Hardscapes are an expensive upfront investment, but they increase your home’s value and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Be prepared to spend around $7,500 for a new deck, $4,000 for a patio, $850 for a fire pit, and $3,000 for a flagstone walkway.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/xeriscaping.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tom Hilton / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMontana’s mountainous western regions, with their continental climates, receive over 35 inches of annual rainfall. Unfortunately, the steppe climates in the central and eastern regions of the Treasure State only receive around 15 inches or fewer, far below the national average rainfall of 30 inches.
\n\n\n\nLike hardscaping, xeriscaping focuses on low-maintenance landscaping with additional emphasis on water conservation. Xeriscaping involves creating a beautiful home landscape that requires no watering except natural rainfall.
\n\n\n\nMontana native plants and turfgrasses are a great water-wise option for xeriscaping your yard. They are naturally drought resistant and adapted to harsh seasonal shifts. Besides native plants, some basic steps for xeriscaping your yard include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional xeriscaping costs between $5 to $20 per square foot, depending on many factors like plant selection and the size of your yard. While upfront costs may seem high, you will save around $0.36 per square foot annually on water and maintenance costs.
\n\n\n\nSlopes, shade, sedimentary rock, and sandstone all have one thing in common. They can make growing turfgrass incredibly difficult. Luckily, your lawn doesn’t need to be covered in traditional grass to have a thick, green appearance. Drought-resistant, low-maintenance groundcover makes a great alternative to grass. These plants grow a few inches tall and spread quickly to fill horizontal space.
\n\n\n\nGroundcover fills areas of your lawn to mimic “grass.” They are low-maintenance, which means less work for you. These plants still require water and the occasional fertilizer, but selecting a native Montana groundcover will ensure your new “grass” is hardy, drought tolerant, and low-maintenance.
\n\n\n\nCheck out these popular Montana groundcovers:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of groundcovers:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Groundcover plants cost around $5 to $50 each, depending on size.
\n\n\n\nLush lawns are scarce in Montana thanks to its semi-arid climate. Luckily, 365 days of perfectly manicured, green lawn is possible if you channel your favorite 1970s sitcom family, the Brady Bunch. Artificial turf is eco-friendly, comes in a variety of colors and styles, and is essentially an outdoor carpet. And contrary to popular belief, it is really hard to tell fake grass from real grass in most cases.
\n\n\n\nArtificial grass is expensive to install and may render your soil unusable in the future. However, it is virtually maintenance-free and a great four-season option for the Great Plains region.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of artificial grass:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional artificial grass installation costs between $5 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/4012667803_b9a8385ed1_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Levin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you live in central or eastern Montana, consider planting drought-resistant succulents like cacti. Succulents love arid climates and thrive in the sedimentary rocks of Montana thanks to their thick leaves and shallow root systems. They prefer to be left alone, so you can forget about watering your plants and let nature take over. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and sizes and work great in back and front yards.
\n\n\n\nCheck out these native Big Sky Country succulents:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of succulents:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The price depends on the size and type of succulent and ranges from $10 to $75 per plant.
\n\n\n\nMontana is home to the only grizzly bear population in the lower 48 states and many urbanized rural areas that share landscape space with other local wildlife, including deer, wolves, coyotes, and even bobcats. The best method to deter wildlife is using landscape plants they prefer not to eat.
Wildlife-resistant native Montana plants include:
No. It is typically unnecessary to mow groundcover. They are a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant alternative to traditional turfgrass and only grow to heights of several inches.
There are many types of artificial turf, including pet-friendly turf, that are specially designed for your furry family members to be stain and odor resistant and easy to clean.
Drought-resistant landscaping is the first step to a hardy and low-maintenance, outdoor space. Be sure to consider your yard’s unique microclimate and hardiness zone when selecting plants for your yard.
\n\n\n\nMontana sits in USDA Hardiness Zones 3a to 6a, with most of the Treasure State falling within zones 3b to 4a. Select drought-resistant plants that are cold-hardy to the minimum temperature in your hardiness zone.
\n\n\n\nStop wasting your time on lawn maintenance. It doesn’t matter if you live in the home of Montana State University, Bozeman, or the capital city, Helena. Consider letting Wikilawn connect you with a local landscaping company that can handle all of your lawn care needs so you can get back to the rugged outdoors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Montana University / Sara goth / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"9 Drought-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/1789c/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/107df/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg 320w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/293e9/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg 500w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/f2cbb/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg 800w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/1789c/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg 960w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/c26c2/Billings_Montana_MSUB.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/1dd6e/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/67b76/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp 320w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/8df11/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp 500w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/98a65/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp 800w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/1dd6e/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp 960w,\n/static/b795904fefeea4003a591cb2db71bbd2/3cc96/Billings_Montana_MSUB.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Drought-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Tranform your Montana yard with 9 drought-resistant landscaping ideas like using rainwater, choosing native plants, and using efficient irrigation."}}},{"node":{"id":"c1d5ec2d-2cd1-515e-91e2-aaa324c6628f","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips","path":"/lawn-care/ga/atlanta/spring-lawn-care-tips/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f552cb4e-e448-57f4-a5a4-d001c98833f6","name":"Atlanta","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ga/atlanta/"},{"id":"e4b1764d-a5cd-56e1-942a-7fc609f1b8e9","name":"Georgia","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ga/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 12th, 2023","excerpt":"As spring arrives in Atlanta, homeowners are eager to go outside and start tending to their lawns. Unlike other southern cities, Atlanta experiences all four seasons, each bringing unique weather and lawn care needs. The spring season, in particular, requires special attention as the grass is still recovering from the harsh winter weather and is […]
\n","content":"\nAs spring arrives in Atlanta, homeowners are eager to go outside and start tending to their lawns. Unlike other southern cities, Atlanta experiences all four seasons, each bringing unique weather and lawn care needs. The spring season, in particular, requires special attention as the grass is still recovering from the harsh winter weather and is just beginning to come back to life.
\n\n\n\nTo help Atlanta homeowners achieve a strong and healthy lawn year-round, here are 11 essential spring lawn care tips. From aerating to fertilizing, these tips will ensure your lawn is in top condition and looking its best this spring and beyond:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/17218096280_40c673bc1f_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tony Webster / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAs spring arrives, it’s time to dust off your lawn care tools hibernating in the garage. But before you start using them, check if they’re in good working condition. Neglecting your tools can lead to unexpected problems as you are trying to tackle your yard work as your grass is growing by leaps and bounds.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure your tools are ready to go, follow this maintenance checklist:
\n\n\n\nBy ticking off these boxes early in the season, you’ll be able to focus on your lawn care without worrying about equipment malfunctions or unexpected breakdowns.
\n\n\n\n![\"orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAlways remember that how you cut your grass can impact its health. Contrary to popular belief, mowing your grass as short as possible isn’t always the best practice for every grass type. If you mow the grass too short, it can weaken it or even create the perfect conditions for lawn diseases to develop.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, letting it grow too long can attract pests and annoy your neighbors. So, what is the ideal grass height for your lawn? Well, that depends on the species. For Atlanta’s most common warm-season and cool-season grasses, these are the recommended mowing heights:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 4 inches |
When it comes to mowing your lawn in the spring, timing is everything. Don’t reach for the mower until the grass has grown to at least 2 inches in height. It will give the roots ample time to establish a strong foundation.
\n\n\n\nBe mindful of the temperature as well. Wait until the daily low temperatures are well above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which usually happens in March or April in Atlanta. To ensure the best results, follow these lawn mowing tips:
\n\n\n\nNote that cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue will go dormant as the weather warms up. Thus, they will not likely require mowing during spring and summer.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nNeglected or weathered lawns, especially in the hot and humid Atlanta climate, are susceptible to a range of lawn diseases caused by various fungi during the spring season.
\n\n\n\nThese diseases can manifest in the form of discolored or dead-looking patches. Fungi can spread rapidly during the growing season, so you must address the problem quickly.
\n\n\n\nThe University of Georgia has compiled a comprehensive list of turfgrass diseases that are common in Atlanta lawns in spring. This resource can help identify the specific disease that may be plaguing your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat anthracnose:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat fairy rings:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat leaf blot:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium root rot:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat rust:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime molds:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat take-all root rot:
\n\n\n\nEvery spring, it is imperative for homeowners and lawn enthusiasts to make a comprehensive shopping list for yard maintenance. Two herbicides that should be on this list are post-emergent herbicides and pre-emergent herbicides, which can tackle the onslaught of both cool-season and summer weeds, respectively.
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_stellaria_media_common_chickweed_ჟუნჟრუკი.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAnnual cool-season weeds typically disappear in late spring, courtesy of the hotter weather. So, it’s your decision whether you want to eliminate them through post-emergent herbicides or let them perish on their own.
\n\n\n\nAtlanta’s annual cool-season weeds include:
\n\n\n\nYou should apply post-emergent herbicides to combat the cool-season weeds that sprout during the fall and winter months and continue to grow through early spring. As soon as you detect the weeds, apply a light layer of these herbicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"crabgrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_green_grass_10_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BogTar201213 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAs any lawn enthusiast can attest, the battle against weeds is a never-ending one. Don’t just address the current weed issues but also be proactive about future ones. And this is where pre-emergent herbicides come in.
\n\n\n\nTo thwart the growth of annual warm-season weeds that tend to crop up during the hotter months of May and June, you should apply pre-emergent herbicides in early or mid-March. Take this step early on since warm-season weeds can wreak havoc on lawns throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nThe annual warm-season weeds common in Atlanta include the following:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_dandelions-1337890603djw.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nUnlike their annual counterparts, perennial weeds have a stubborn and persistent nature. They can re-seed and regrow year after year. In such instances, post-emergent herbicides are the way to go. These herbicides are effective in targeting the weeds at their roots and eliminating them for good (for this season, at least).
\n\n\n\nThe perennial weeds common in Atlanta are:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_wilde-mohre-daucus-carota.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nUnlike annual or perennial weeds, biennial weeds have a two-year life cycle. In the first year, it grows from seed and produces foliage. During the second year, it dies after creating a seed stalk and setting seed. While not as prevalent in lawns as other types of weeds, you should still keep an eye out for biennials and remove them promptly to prevent them from spreading.
\n\n\n\nCommon biennial weeds include the following:
\n\n\n\nNote: The key to an impeccable lawn is to take a preemptive approach to weed management, ensuring that it stays healthy and lush year-round.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_grasflache_4_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lupus in Saxonia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nIf you take lawn maintenance seriously, then overseeding is a term you’re probably familiar with. For the uninitiated, overseeding involves adding new grass seed to an existing lawn to fill any patchy or thinning areas.
\n\n\n\nThe beginning of a lawn’s active growing season is the ideal time for overseeding – typically in spring. Since Atlanta falls in the middle of a transition zone, it can accommodate both warm-season and cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the optimal time to overseed warm-season grasses, as they’re gearing up for their growing season and can benefit from the added nutrients. Conversely, if your lawn has cool-season grass like tall fescue, it’s advisable to wait until fall before overseeding.
\n\n\n\nIn the table below, you’ll discover the best time to plant new seeds for the most common warm-season grasses in Atlanta. These are based on average daily temperatures and weather conditions.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Atlanta |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | May – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | May – June |
| St. Augustinegrass | 65 – 80s | May – June |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | Late May – July |
Once you’ve overseeded your lawn, note that newly seeded grass has different care requirements compared to established grass, even if they’re the same species. Adequate watering and fertilization are key to ensuring your freshly planted grass grows thick and healthy.
\n\n\n\nNote: You should bear in mind that you’ll have to choose between weed control and overseeding in the spring. Applying herbicides to prevent weed germination also can prevent your new grass from growing. Thus, you’ll have to weigh the pros and cons and decide which is more critical for your lawn – getting rid of weeds or filling in sparse areas.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nThe backbone of every healthy lawn is the soil – providing essential nutrients that grass needs to grow and thrive. Similar to how a balanced diet is important for people, ensure that your soil is providing the nutrients your lawn needs to flourish. Even if you fertilize regularly, if your soil lacks key nutrients, your lawn will not be able to reach its full potential.
\n\n\n\nHow can you know if your soil is up to snuff? The best way is to collect a soil sample and have it professionally tested. Luckily, the Fulton County Cooperative Extension Service offers affordable soil tests for less than $20. Once you receive the results of your soil test, you can determine which amendments your soil needs to improve.
\n\n\n\nCommon amendments include lime (to adjust soil pH) and nutrients such as nitrogen, potash, potassium, and phosphorus. By ensuring your soil is healthy and well-nourished, you’ll be laying the foundation for a lush and vibrant lawn.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn needs more than just nutrients to grow thick and healthy. Applying the correct fertilizer at the right time can give your lawn the extra boost it needs.
\n\n\n\nFor warm-season grasses in Atlanta, the best time to fertilize is in late spring after the grass has regained its green color and begun active growth. The first “feeding” of the year typically happens in May. However, it’s important to wait until your grass has started growing before fertilizing. Otherwise, the fertilizer will not work.
\n\n\n\nUsing a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer is recommended to help your grass grow consistently and steadily throughout the season. While fast-release fertilizers may make your grass grow faster, too much nitrogen applied too quickly can cause unsustainable growth or even burn your grass. When it comes to fertilizing your lawn, slow and steady is the way to go.
\n\n\n\nProper fertilization is key to maintaining a healthy lawn, but there’s more to it than simply spreading fertilizer around your yard. To avoid streaks or patchy growth, it’s important to use a spreader when applying fertilizer. This ensures an even coating and reduces the risk of applying too much fertilizer in a single spot, which can be harmful to your grass.
\n\n\n\nNote: Remember, more fertilizer doesn’t equal more growth – overfertilization can actually weaken your grass. And don’t be tempted to apply fertilizer too early in the season. Grass won’t start growing until it’s ready, so fertilizing too soon is just a waste of time and money.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIn the early days of spring, you can hold off on watering your lawn because the soil tends to be naturally moist during this time. Additionally, you must lessen foot traffic and avoid burdening your lawn with heavy equipment, as the damp soil is more susceptible to damage.
\n\n\n\nNote: You’ll know it’s time to start watering once your grass has begun actively growing and you’ve applied the first round of fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nTo maintain a healthy lawn throughout the rest of spring, it’s vital not to overwater. Experts recommend watering no more than 1 inch per week. Overwatering can lead to several problems, including:
\n\n\n\nSandy loam soils are abundant in the Atlanta area, which means water retention may be an issue. Unlike dense clay, which requires deep, infrequent watering, sandy loam soils benefit from light, frequent watering. However, too much watering can lead to lawn diseases, so it’s important to monitor your grass after each watering session.
\n\n\n\nWhile overwatering can create problems, underwatering is equally detrimental. Grass that’s screaming for water will eventually turn brown, become brittle, and die if continuously neglected. To keep your lawn healthy and vibrant, you should strike the right balance when it comes to watering.
\n\n\n\nAs the weather warms up, keep an eye on your lawn’s water intake. Your lawn isn’t getting enough water if::
\n\n\n\nTo determine if your soil is getting enough water, try this simple test:
\n\n\n\nStep 1: Take a screwdriver and press it into the soil.
\n\n\n\nStep 2: If the screwdriver goes in without resistance, then your soil is moist enough, and you can continue to water at your current rate.
\n\n\n\nStep 3: If the screwdriver has trouble penetrating the soil, it may be too dry. It’s time to increase your watering frequency, but remember not to exceed 1 inch of water per week.
\n\n\n\nNote: Early spring is a critical time for your lawn, and while it may be tempting to tackle heavy yard work during this time, you must be mindful of the wet soil conditions. Soil that is too wet is easily compacted, which can lead to root damage and other issues. Instead, focus on lighter maintenance tasks like removing debris, raking leaves, and pruning. Waiting until the soil has dried out before attempting heavy yard work will help keep your lawn healthy and thriving.
\n\n\n\nAeration is a common lawn care practice that involves punching small holes in compacted soil to allow for better water and nutrient absorption by the grassroots. While it can be a lifesaver for struggling lawns, there are certain times of the year when you should avoid aerating, especially in spring.
\n\n\n\nAerating in spring can cause warm-season weed seeds to germinate and dry out the soil, both of which can have negative effects on your lawn’s health.
\n\n\n\nHowever, if your lawn is so compacted that grass can’t grow, you may have no choice but to aerate. In that case, try to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. Thankfully, Atlanta’s sandy loam soils are often loose and don’t become compacted easily, so aeration may not be necessary at all.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIn Atlanta, spring is the season when many lawn pests lay their eggs. And by summer, the larvae will have matured into adults. To prevent a full-blown infestation, it’s essential to act early before the pests start reproducing.
\n\n\n\nSome of the lawn pests commonly found in Atlanta during springtime include::
\n\n\n\nRather than resorting to pesticides right away, it’s best to prevent pests by performing proper lawn care practices. A healthy lawn that’s free of excess moisture and thatch will not provide pests with an environment to thrive. If you do encounter pests despite your best efforts, it’s advisable to use selective pesticides that won’t harm beneficial insects.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a natural layer of dead grass blades, leaves, and other organic matter that builds up between the soil and the grass. A little bit of thatch can be beneficial for the lawn, as it acts as a natural insulator, retains moisture, and slowly decomposes into valuable nutrients for the grass.
\n\n\n\nHowever, if the thatch layer becomes too thick (more than an inch), it can cause problems such as blocking water from reaching the roots and becoming a breeding ground for pests and diseases. To prevent this, it’s recommended to dethatch or remove the excess layer of thatch once a year.
\n\n\n\nDethatching, also known as verticutting, involves removing the thatch layer using a specialized tool like a verticutter or a hand rake. Wait until the grass has started actively growing and has been mowed at least two times before dethatching.
\n\n\n\nLate spring in Atlanta is the ideal time to dethatch as it’s after the grass has started growing and before the hot summer weather sets in. Additionally, dethatching before aeration can help make the soil more accessible.
\n\n\n\nNote: Dethatching should be done carefully – without damaging the healthy grass blades.
\n\n\n\nApril showers may bring May flowers. But for Atlanta homeowners, they also bring the perfect opportunity to give their lawns the attention they need to thrive. Following these 11 essential spring lawn care tips ensures your lawn is healthy, green, and looks its best throughout the year.
\n\n\n\nBut remember that taking care of your lawn is a year-round commitment. And by investing time and effort in the spring, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful and healthy lawn for all seasons.
If you find that spring lawn care is more involved than you anticipated, don’t hesitate to seek the help of a local Atlanta lawn care professional.
Main Image Credit: Pxhere
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\n","content":"\nPushing a mower around the yard under Arizona’s scorching summer sun can be miserable. So if you find yourself melting in the searing heat one afternoon, you might wonder if there’s an easier way to get a nice yard. There is: Consider low-maintenance landscaping for Arizona that reduces your time and effort.
\n\n\n\nWhile all yards require some level of care, you can cut down on your time, effort, and expense with low-maintenance landscaping approaches that minimize the required amount of watering, fertilizing, mowing, and weeding. Let’s take a look at some of the best low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Arizona.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n3. Plant Ground Covers, Not Grass
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n5. Plant Long-Lasting Perennials
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n9. Get an Automatic Sprinkler System
\n\n\n\nFAQs About Low-Maintenance Arizona Landscapes
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Bunch](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Blackfoot-Daisy-Melampodium-leucanthum.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Zbigniew Niepokój / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nGo native and landscape with indigenous Arizona plants. Plants that thrive in the Arizona wilderness will also grow well in your yard.
\n\n\n\nNative Arizona plants already know how to survive in the wild without special care, so they won’t require much watering, fertilizing, or pest control. They also resist local pests and diseases. Planting a mixture of native wildflowers, trees, and shrubs means less maintenance for your yard.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few to start with:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAdvantages of growing native plants:
Estimated Cost: The price tag of a native plant depends on the size and type of plant. Here’s a general price range for different types of plants:
\n\n\n\n| Plant Type | Price |
| Shrub | $15 to $50 |
| Vine | $5 to $50 |
| Tree | $200 to $1,500 |
If you are planning a more intensive project, installing a flower bed costs $585 to $3,300.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not just native plants that thrive in the Arizona heat. Succulents are hardy, drought-resistant plants that thrive in hot climates, too.
\n\n\n\nSucculents don’t require much maintenance or care, so they are perfectly content on their own, without outside help. Unlike most plants, succulents prefer arid conditions and can perish if they are overwatered.
\n\n\n\nFrom cacti to agaves, there are many varieties of succulents to choose from, and homeowners can add a desert-like flare to their yard while simultaneously reducing the amount of effort required for lawn upkeep.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of succulents:
Estimated Cost: As with any plant, the price depends on the type and size of the succulent. Usually, you can expect to pay about $10 to $75 per plant.
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/rose-flower-nature-garden-flowering-plant-petal-1607880-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nWant a natural growing lawn without having to mow weekly? Then ground covers may be just the thing you’re looking for. Ground covers are low-growing plants that usually grow no more than a few inches tall.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are decorative, require little maintenance, and spread over your yard the way a lawn would. Some ground covers flower during the year, adding a touch of floral color to your yard.
\n\n\n\nLook for groundcovers that grow well in Arizona USDA hardiness zone, which ranges from 6a to 10a. Some groundcovers that flourish in these zones include:
Advantages of ground covers:
Estimated Cost: Installing ground covers usually costs around $4.50 to $26 per square foot, although prices vary depending on the type of ground cover. If you have to remove your old grass lawn first, that job will be an additional cost that will depend on the scope of the project.
\n\n\n\nOne easy way to keep an evergreen lawn year-round without ever having to take care of it is to replace your traditional grass lawn with artificial turf.
\n\n\n\nWith artificial turf, you never have to water or mow your yard. You won’t have to worry about the scorching heat burning your grass to a brown crisp or remember to fertilize it at the right time. Even without maintenance, your lawn will look the same all year long. And artificial turf can be great for playing games outdoors.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of artificial turf:
Estimated Cost: Different types of artificial turf are priced differently, but in general professional artificial turf installation costs $5 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Salvia_greggii_1c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Consultaplantas / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nReplanting new plants in your flower beds every year is a costly endeavor that takes a lot of time. Instead of buying annuals, switch to perennial plants.
\n\n\n\nAnnuals last only a single year and biennials just two years, but perennials keep returning year after year. Using perennials spares you the time and effort of nurturing annuals as they adjust to their new home.
\n\n\n\nTry some of these perennials:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAdvantages of gardening with perennials:
Estimated Cost: Usually it costs $10 to $60 per plant, although costs vary widely across the board depending on what kind of perennial you get. If you hire a professional to plant your perennials for you, that will affect the cost of the project as well.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping has become a hot new landscaping trend that reduces the amount of time and effort that needs to be spent on yard maintenance.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping requires little water, which makes it perfect for weathering Arizona’s heat. Natural rainfall should be the only water that xeriscaping needs.
\n\n\n\nSome xeriscaping methods you can try include:
Advantages of xeriscaping:
Estimated Cost: Depending on the nature and scope of the project, xeriscaping projects usually cost $8,737 to $22,226. The upfront cost is expensive, but xeriscaping saves a lot of money on landscaping maintenance in the long run since it reduces both monetary and time costs for watering, fertilizing, and mowing.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/8145471727_db38e90c4e_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMaybe you don’t want to deal with a lawn at all. Hardscapes may be for you, then. Hardscapes take up space that your grass lawn would normally occupy, reducing the area where grass or other plants can grow. And with less lawn comes less mowing.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes generally require little maintenance other than occasional cleaning, which is much less intensive than the regular upkeep of grass lawns.
\n\n\n\nSome ideas for hardscapes include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of using hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of a hardscape depends on the type and scope of the hardscaping project. If you’re looking for a hardscape project that fits your budget, here is a list of price ranges for different hardscape projects:
\n\n\n\n| Project | Price |
| Decorative rock | $460 – $1,000 |
| Rock garden | $460 – $1,000 |
| Stone paver | $8 – $22 per square foot |
| Pergola | $2,000 – $9,000 |
| Gazebo | $4,828 – $9,930 |
| Patio | $2,000 – $6,500 |
| Deck | $4,000 – $11,000 |
| Fire pit | $500 – $3,000 |
| Retaining wall | $3,622 – $9582 |
Mulch is as useful as it is simple. Applying mulch to your yard is a simple matter of buying a bag of mulch and spreading a layer of mulch over your flower bed. After that, it’s just a matter of leaving mulch to do its thing.
\n\n\n\nMulch acts as a protective layer over the dirt of your plant bed by keeping moisture in and weeds out. There are two different categories of mulch to choose from:
Advantages of mulching:
Estimated Cost: The price is dependent upon the type of mulch, as each mulch type has a different price tag.
\n\n\n\nAn automatic irrigation system can save you a lot of time and energy spent on watering. Instead of watering your yard by hand, an automatic irrigation system allows you to pre-program your sprinklers for when and how long you want them to water your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSprinklers can even be installed with a sensor that allows them to automatically adjust according to the local water levels.
\n\n\n\nInstalling an automatic underground irrigation system might be an expensive investment, but it will save you a lot of time and make things easier for you and your lawn in the long term.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of an automatic irrigation system:
Estimated Cost: On average, installing an automatic irrigation system will cost between $2,400 and $4,200. Above-ground sprinkler head attachments are much cheaper: between $9 and $36. However, they are not as convenient, as they can’t be automatically programmed like an in-ground sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\nWhether you surround your landscaping plants with mulch or rocks is a matter of personal preference; both have benefits for your landscaping.
Bermudagrass, buffalograss, and Zoysiagrass are the best drought-tolerant lawn grasses for Arizona. They can endure long dry spells and high amounts of foot traffic, making them good low-maintenance grasses for your lawn.
If you don’t want to spend money on mulch, it is possible to make your own using dead leaves, grass clippings and even food was. Note that organic mulch has to be replenished more frequently than inorganic mulch, but it can act as fertilizer for your plants as well by providing nutrients to your soil.
Redoing your yard’s infrastructure can reduce or eliminate lawn care maintenance. The more you minimize the yard work that needs to be done, the more you can enjoy the air-conditioned indoors and kick back with a cool glass of lemonade.
\n\n\n\nIf the job seems too daunting to tackle on your own, consider using a lawn care pro near you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit : Lawn, Arizona / Nick Bastian / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Your Arizona Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2.380952380952381,"src":"/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/1789c/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/107df/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/293e9/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/f2cbb/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/1789c/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/c26c2/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/1dd6e/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/67b76/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/8df11/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/98a65/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/1dd6e/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/c67c3f8a50ffacac01ac6d6b130932d4/3cc96/4462581803_0f074bd5d5_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Your Arizona Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Your can reduce the time you spend on outdoor chores but still have a beautiful yard with these low-maintenance ideas for your Arizona yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"34aeb542-c6ff-5451-bcc9-1242cd3df304","slug":"worst-weeds-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/worst-weeds-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Your lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. Here are Virginia Beach’s worst offenders.
\n","content":"\nYour lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. After all the time and money you’ve put into maintaining your grass, weeds spread effortlessly and quickly. They compete with existing vegetation for water and sunlight, produce a lot of seeds and become the dominant greenery. Invasive plants may look pretty at first, but they can turn your dream lawn into a nightmare. Here are some of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach yards and gardens and ways to deal with them.
\n\n\n\nThis oh-so-familiar shaggy, yellow flower is everywhere. We pick them as kids, blow the seeds into the wind and, spread that weed even more. The common dandelion (picture above) sprouts all year but mostly in the fall and spring. They’re everywhere — in fields, roadsides, and lawns — and they tolerate mowing. The leaves and stem have a milky sap. The yellow flowers turn into fluffy balls of white seeds that are taken by the wind, sometimes miles from where the original plant grows. There are several ways to keep your lawn from becoming a sea of yellow flowers. The best non-chemical method involves digging. But you have to make sure you get the entire root, or the weed will regenerate. You could try pouring an industrial-strength vinegar on the root, but beware. The vinegar will also kill any grass it touches. If you opt for a synthetic weed-killer, shop for a selective broadleaf herbicide that kills dandelions but not your turf. Better still, get in the habit of inspecting your lawn and at the first sign of the yellow flower, pull it up, before it has a chance to go to seed.
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant is known for its vigorous growth. The shiny, waxy leaves are dark green on top and lighter green underneath. Leaves are 2 to 4 inches long with small white hairs. It’s sometimes used for decorative purposes and makes an excellent indoor plant. But outside, it quickly overwhelms everything growing nearby. The ivy climbs buildings, the rootlets attaching to cracks and fissures, causing structural damage. It can even choke out tree growth by wrapping around the trunk and branches and limiting access to water and sun. There are two options for getting rid of English ivy. The first is chemical. This can be tough because the waxy ivy leaves are hard to penetrate. If you decide to go this route, glyphosate is the most effective. Because it kills everything it touches, be sure to spray only the ivy and none of the surrounding vegetation. The second method is manual. Cut small vines with pruning shears and pull them up by the roots. If you don’t remove the roots, the vines will keep growing back.
\n\n\n\nHairy bittercress is part of the mustard family and you CAN eat it. But you don’t want it taking over your yard. This is one of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach because it grows pretty much anywhere, but mostly in lawns and flower gardens. Once it’s in your lawn, it’s hard to get rid of. This annual invasive plant seeds over winter and starts growing at the end of the season, into early spring. The small plant can hide among your and disperse thousands of seeds, causing the weed to multiply quickly. The key to getting rid of hairy bittercress is to start early before seed pods form. Use a weeding tool to dig down and remove each plant. Like most weeds, pulling it usually leaves the roots behind. Do not add pulled plants to the compost pile, in case they manage to set seed.
\n\n\n\nThis weed flowers from June through November. It’s a broadleaf plant that shows up in turfgrass across the Southeastern United States. Virginia buttonweed flourishes in moist and wet areas and tolerates mowing. It can overtake your lawn, stealing vital nutrients from the grass. Overwatering and too much rain encourage its growth. Virginia buttonweed is difficult to get rid of because pieces of the plant or root continue to regenerate. One way to control it is to improve the health of your lawn with deep, infrequent watering. This gives the grass a fighting chance to compete with weeds. Pre-emergence herbicides are ineffective on Virginia buttonweed but some post-emergence weed control has proven effective.
\n\n\n\nHenbit produces a pretty purple flower, but unless you want those flowers across your entire yard, you’ve got to wage war on this weed. It’s a member of the mint family but doesn’t have the distinct minty smell. Henbit flowers in early spring and is self-pollinating. It spreads easily by seed and is part of a meadow ecosystem. But, unless you live in a meadow, you’ll want to remove it from your lawn and garden. The best control is to remove the entire plant before it sets seed. Hand weed and then mulch the garden beds. Be careful not to break the roots. A pre-emergent herbicide can prevent henbit from sprouting in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nKnowing how to spot and control thee weeds will keep the worst weeds in Virginia Beach off your lawn. Remember, maintaining a healthy, thick lawn is the best way to discourage these weeds from getting a foothold.
\n\n\n\nWant to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Virginia Beach? visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Los Angeles’ warm, sunny climate is perfect for enjoying the outdoors, but it can make yard care a challenge. Thankfully, there are many low-maintenance landscaping ideas that can help you create a beautiful yard in LA that requires minimal upkeep. Let’s see how you can make your lawn care a little easier. In this article: […]
\n","content":"\nLos Angeles’ warm, sunny climate is perfect for enjoying the outdoors, but it can make yard care a challenge. Thankfully, there are many low-maintenance landscaping ideas that can help you create a beautiful yard in LA that requires minimal upkeep. Let’s see how you can make your lawn care a little easier.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/47649566962_1092e76082_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Morefield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you want beautiful flowers that need little care, consider native plants. These plants grow naturally in Los Angeles, which means they are well-suited to the local climate and soil conditions. There are many kinds of native plants out there, so make sure you choose the ones that fit your needs and preferences.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of choosing native plants:
\n\n\n\nExamples of the best Los Angeles native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of adding native plants to your yard depends on the plant’s type and size. Roughly, you can expect to pay $1,000 to $3,000 for a flower bed and $25 to $60 per shrub. Large shrubs can cost as much as $350. Trees typically cost $150 to $1,850 per tree but can cost as much as $3,335.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Epilobium_canum_Everetts_Choice_kz3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWhat’s the difference between annual and perennial plants? Annuals live for one growing season, whereas perennials come back year after year with proper care. They don’t need to be replaced every year and can even last for decades.
\n\n\n\nIf you want the lowest-maintenance perennial, get a shrub or a tree. You can also plant smaller perennials, but they usually need more care.
\n\n\n\nBut keep in mind that perennials tend to take longer to bloom and have shorter blooming seasons than annuals. When they’re in bloom, their blossoms are usually less vibrant. They also tend to be more expensive. So if you’ve got a bit of time for yard care or want to hire a lawn care pro, a good option is to get a mix of perennials and annuals.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of adding perennial plants:
\n\n\n\nExamples of perennial plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Once again, the cost of adding perennial Los Angeles plants to your lawn will depend on various factors. Some of these factors include the plant type and size, and whether you plant them yourself or hire a pro.
\n\n\n\nBut here are some rough figures. If you plant them yourself, your plants should cost around $2.50 to $60 per plant. However, they can cost over $100, depending on their size and type. Shrubs usually cost between $25 and $60 per shrub, but large shrubs can cost as much as $350. Trees are more expensive. They typically cost between $150 and $1,850 per tree but can cost as much as $3,335.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Aeonium_korneliuslemsii_Crassulaceae_leaves.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Magnus Manske / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nSucculents are low-maintenance plants that are popular in Southern California and beyond. They do well in the warmest parts of Los Angeles. Planting succulents in your garden save money on water bills and helps conserve water.
\n\n\n\nSome succulents only thrive in climates that never reach low temperatures.Minimum temperatures in Los Angeles County range between 0 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Every Los Angeles area has a different hardiness zone, which is the minimum temperature it reaches each year. Check your area’s minimum temperature here.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of succulents:
\n\n\n\nExamples of succulents:
\n\n\n\n| Type of Succulent | Minimum Temperature |
| Supervivum | -30 degrees Fahrenheit and above |
| Aeonium | 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit |
| Coastal prickly pear (native) | 25 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit |
| The jade plant | 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit |
Estimated cost: There are many kinds of succulents out there. Depending on the type and size, their prices usually range from $5 to $100 per plant.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-tara-winstead-7663973-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nPotted plants are a versatile option that can complete your landscaping project. You can pick from various designs and place them anywhere you want. Moreover, they need less maintenance than in-ground plants, so they’re an easy solution to add an elegant touch to your garden.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of potted plants:
\n\n\n\nWhich plants can you pot? You can grow most plants in a pot as long as you care for them properly. Make sure that you choose the right pot and soil and that you learn about your plants’ needs.
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: As mentioned above, your budget for your new plants depends on a number of factors. But to give you some ballpark figures, the typical cost of plants is $2.50 to $60. However, they can cost up to $190, depending on their type and size. If you want a decorative pot, their prices usually range between $4 and $150.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8470969805_38047bb4d6_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tom Britt / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMulching is excellent at conserving water and reducing weeds. It’s one of the easiest, cheapest ways to keep your garden healthy and hydrated.
\n\n\n\nYou can choose between organic mulch and inorganic mulch. Organic mulch breaks down over time, adding nutrients to the soil. You’ll need to replace it every year. On the other hand, inorganic mulch doesn’t add any nutrients to the soil. However, it can last for several years without needing to be replaced, making it a low-maintenance option.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nExamples of organic mulch:
\n\n\n\nExamples of inorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Mulching typically costs around $85 per cubic yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/49950590552_df6d1a4836_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Patrick Alexander / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nJust like plants, there are grass types that thrive in the soil and climate of Los Angeles. Consider selecting a low-maintenance grass type to complement your low-maintenance plants. This can not only save you time and effort in lawn care but also money on water.
\n\n\n\nThe advantages of low-maintenance grass types are obvious:
\n\n\n\nTwo examples of low-maintenance grass types include:
\n\n\n\nOne more option is sand dune sedge, but take note that this grass grows in clumps and won’t create a uniform lawn appearance.
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional grass removal typically costs $1.50 per square foot. Professional lawn seeding typically costs between $0.10 and $0.19 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Sedum_lineare_variegatum.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ghislain118 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nIf you want to go a step further, you can choose a low-maintenance ground cover instead of traditional turfgrass. Ground cover plants are short plants that can create the appearance of a dense lawn without needing as much maintenance.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of choosing ground cover over turfgrasses include:
\n\n\n\nThese ground cover plants should do well in your Los Angeles lawn:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of ground covers ranges from $10 to $25 per square foot without installation.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Xeriscape_garden_2014_-_2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Steakley / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping is a landscaping technique that focuses on reducing water usage. So if you want a low-maintenance garden that you won’t need to water much, xeriscaping is a great option for you.
\n\n\n\nThe advantages of xeriscaping include:
\n\n\n\nYou don’t have to xeriscape your entire lawn at once. You can start by taking small but impactful steps. As time goes on, you can gradually incorporate more xeriscaping techniques into your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how you can start xeriscaping today:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The average cost of xeriscaping ranges between $5 and $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/8145471727_f0843aa441_c-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHardscaping is any non-living element on your lawn, whether it be rocks, furniture, or a patio. By adding a few hardscapes to your landscape design, you can make it more functional and appealing while also making it easier to take care of.
\n\n\n\nThere are many features you can add to your yard to create a low-maintenance, efficient outdoor living space. Some hardscapes, like fences and rock gardens, can even be made into a fun DIY project if you have the skills, tools, and time. If not, you can consider hiring one of WikiLawn’s landscaping pros.
\n\n\n\nThe advantages of hardscaping include:
\n\n\n\nExamples of common hardscapes include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There are many types of hardscaping projects, and their costs vary. Roughly, a new patio costs $2,200 to $6,500; a new deck costs $3,900 to $10,500; a new fire pit costs $250 to $2,200; a new pergola costs $2,100 to $6,000; a water feature installation can cost $1,100 to $7,500; river rocks cost $60 to $170 per ton; and stone paver projects cost between $3 and $30 per square foot, depending on the type of stone.
\n\n\n\nAs you can see, there are various things homeowners can do to make lawn care easier. But even adding a few native, drought-tolerant plants can go a long way. Just make sure you do your research because plants all have advantages and drawbacks. Some plants are also toxic, so it’s important to be aware of any potential hazards before planting.
\n\n\n\nBut let’s face it: even a low-maintenance lawn requires some level of upkeep. If you’d prefer to enjoy more of your free time without worrying about lawn care, consider hiring one of WikiLawn’s Los Angeles lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Paolo Gamba / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Los Angeles","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4962593516209477,"src":"/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/1789c/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/107df/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/293e9/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/f2cbb/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/1789c/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/c26c2/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/1dd6e/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/67b76/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/8df11/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/98a65/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/1dd6e/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/b383ba5b29ac2ef952e870945293d947/3cc96/18261266660_eccc33d429_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Los Angeles | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"How can you make your lawn care easier? Read on for 8 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Los Angeles."}}}],"postCity":{"node":{"name":"Columbus","slug":"columbus","state":{"name":"Ohio","slug":"oh"},"suburbs":[{"name":"Canal Winchester","slug":"canal-winchester"},{"name":"Delaware","slug":"delaware"},{"name":"Dublin","slug":"dublin"},{"name":"Hilliard","slug":"hilliard"},{"name":"Heath","slug":"heath"},{"name":"Lewis Center","slug":"lewis-center"},{"name":"New Albany","slug":"new-albany"},{"name":"Plain City","slug":"plain-city"},{"name":"Newark","slug":"newark"},{"name":"Pickerington","slug":"pickerington"},{"name":"Grove City","slug":"grove-city"},{"name":"Lancaster","slug":"lancaster"},{"name":"Marysville","slug":"marysville"},{"name":"Reynoldsburg","slug":"reynoldsburg"},{"name":"Powell","slug":"powell"},{"name":"Westerville","slug":"westerville"}],"parentCity":null}}}}}![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/rtfKol5HRJKtKH-SXHIY2nvHAEriCnCHsoKBq_nI_ESaziHd1R7vlZpwKIq8Qr5ivZJz_b4oSEHLFFQK5MF-BhuzOzVS5fQCTMsbUD9ZCwGz8ToidwDbGS_r9GV4xHA4lnnD9VHc\")
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