![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blue-Palo-Verde-1.jpg\")
Watering restrictions are not a concern for Cincinnati, but it’s still a good idea to conserve.
\n","content":"\nDrought and local lawn watering restrictions are plaguing people across the country. Not so in Cincinnati. Cincy is fortunate: It draws 88 percent of its water from the large Ohio River. The other 12 percent comes from an underground aquifer. Watering restrictions in Cincinnati are rare since the river isn’t likely to run dry any time soon. In fact, in 2019 may be the third wettest year on record for the Queen City.
\n\n\n\nCincinnati is also humid, which helps keep things green. That said, some years our lawns and gardens often need more water than Mother Nature provides during the summer.
\n\n\n\nWatering smart involves knowing when and how much to water your lawn. The best time to give the grass a drink is in the morning, before 10 a.m. This allows the soil to absorb the water before it evaporates during the heat of the day and help your lawn thrive in hotter weather. It also gives the grass enough time to dry by nightfall. Too much water on your lawn overnight can lead to disease that can kill the grass.
\n\n\n\nEstablished lawns in Cincinnati need at least an inch of water weekly (the amount varies depending on your soil type). Instead of watering daily for shorter stretches of time, lawn experts recommend watering every few days for longer periods. This way, water soaks deeply into the soil, giving roots the moisture they need to survive. If Mother Nature is giving you a hand with rainfall, cut back on running those sprinklers.
\n\n\n\nProper mowing will help save water and keep your grass thick and healthy. Set your mower blade height to three inches or higher, and don’t mow too often. Taller grass will develop deeper roots which will hold up better during the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nWhile there aren’t any watering restrictions in Cincinnati right now, it’s still a good idea to keep water conservation in mind. The Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical garden gets kudos for installing underground tanks that reuse rainwater and save millions of gallons of water a year. Likewise, the University of Cincinnati received national recognition for its efforts to conserve water and to lessen the flow of stormwater into the city’s sewer system.
\n\n\n\nSo even though there’s an abundance of water right now, go with the flow and limit your watering. Our neighbors in the drought-stricken states will thank you.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Cincinnati? Visit our Cincinnati Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\nTina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.
Nevada, known as the Silver State, is famous for its vibrant Las Vegas casinos, luxurious hotels, and bright lights. It’s also known for its desert landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see. With its arid climate and scorching temperatures, it’s no surprise that many homeowners in Nevada are turning to desert gardening […]
\n","content":"\nNevada, known as the Silver State, is famous for its vibrant Las Vegas casinos, luxurious hotels, and bright lights. It’s also known for its desert landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see. With its arid climate and scorching temperatures, it’s no surprise that many homeowners in Nevada are turning to desert gardening to transform their outdoor spaces. But finding the right plants for this harsh environment can be a challenge.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, these 19 best desert landscaping plants for Nevada can thrive in the state’s climate and add beauty and interest to any landscape. From the iconic Joshua tree to the stunning creosote bush, there are plenty of options to choose from. Whether you’re looking to create a lush oasis or a minimalist xeriscape, these plants are sure to inspire and bring a touch of desert magic to your own backyard.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nThe following drought-resistant plants can tolerate Nevada’s unique climate while also beautifying and adding character to any garden:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Katja Schulz from Washington, D. C., USA / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative to the Southwest, including California, Arizona, New Mexico, and parts of Nevada, blue palo verde is a stunning desert tree highly recommended for homeowners in Southern Nevada. It also can grow in Northern Nevada, although it is less commonly planted in gardens in this region.
\n\n\n\nWith a smooth, green bark and tiny, wispy leaves that are almost invisible to the naked eye, this perennial tree blooms in the spring and produces striking yellow flowers that add color to any landscape. Its fruits are small, brown pods that split open to release seeds, which can be used to propagate new plants.
\n\n\n\nThis low-maintenance plant requires little water once established, making it an ideal choice for homeowners looking for a water-wise landscaping option. The best time to plant blue palo verde is in the fall or winter – when the plant is dormant, and the temperatures are cooler. Consider underplanting it with low-growing, drought-tolerant plants like agave or desert marigold.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 20-25 feet tall, 15-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, loam, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – but its bark and twigs are covered in small thorns, which can cause injury if not handled carefully
\n\n\n\n![\"Brittlebush\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Brittlebush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Copyright by Curtis Clark, licensed as noted / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.5
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOften found growing in the high desert regions of Nevada, brittlebush has silver-gray leaves covered in fine hairs to reflect the sun’s heat. Its yellow daisy-like flowers bloom from February to May, making it an early spring bloomer that attracts various pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nIt produces small, brown, triangular-shaped seeds that are dispersed by the wind and can be used to propagate new plants. The best time to plant brittlebush is in the fall or early spring, as it can be sensitive to frost.
\n\n\n\nThis drought-tolerant plant is highly resistant to pests and diseases. And although it’s not poisonous to humans or animals, its leaves and stems are covered in small, sharp hairs that can irritate the skin, so you must wear gloves when handling it.
\n\n\n\nAlso, note that its leaves contain a water-soluble substance that inhibits the growth of certain winter annual plants, indicating its allelopathic nature. Moreover, it competes with buffalograss, which can affect the survival of both species in the same area.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-4 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen – but deciduous after extreme drought or frost
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Creosote](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Creosote-Bush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA hardy and resilient desert plant, creosote bush is well-suited for gardens in Nevada. This deer-resistant plant can be found growing throughout the state, especially in the Mojave and Sonoran deserts.
\n\n\n\nThis evergreen shrub features small, waxy leaves that give off a distinct aroma when crushed. Its yellow flowers bloom in the summer and spring, creating a striking contrast against the backdrop of the arid desert landscape and attracting bees and other pollinators. These flowers give way to fluffy, white seed heads that can be propagated to create new plants.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to plant creosote bush is in the fall. Once established, this drought-tolerant plant has low water needs, making it an excellent choice for water-wise gardens. You also can underplant it with other desert-friendly plants, such as brittlebush, desert marigold, or firecracker penstemon.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4-8 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, loamy, or sandy soil but can thrive even in dry and rocky soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to both humans and animals – plus, its leaves and branches are covered in a resinous coating that can cause skin irritation in some people.
\n\n\n\n![\"Date](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Date-Palm-Tree.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Balaram Mahalder / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhile date palms are typically found in the warmer regions of Southern Nevada, they also can grow well in other regions throughout Nevada with proper care. These palm trees have been cultivated for their sweet, nutritious fruit for thousands of years. In Nevada, they are commonly planted in residential and commercial landscapes, especially in areas with a Mediterranean climate.
\n\n\n\nDate palms have long, slender fronds with a blue-green color that adds a tropical feel to any landscape. This evergreen tree typically blooms in late winter or early spring, producing small yellowish-white flowers that give way to clusters of edible, oval-shaped dates ranging in color from golden yellow to dark brown, depending on the ripeness.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Palm tree or cycad
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 50-80 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, loamy, clay, chalk, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Slightly toxic – its thorns are poisonous and may cause injuries
\n\n\n\n![\"Desert](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Desert-Bluebells.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jarek Tuszyński / CC-BY-SA-3.0 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative to the Southwest, desert bluebell thrives in arid conditions, making it a perfect fit for the dry climate of Nevada. It’s best suited for gardens in Southern Nevada, including the Las Vegas Valley and the Mojave Desert, but it also can grow well in other regions with well-draining soil and full sun exposure.
\n\n\n\nWith finely textured and bright green foliage, this small, annual wildflower blooms from March to May and produces vibrant blue, bell-shaped flowers that attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nThis evergreen shrub is generally low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, and does not require much water once established. Plus, it is highly resistant to diseases and pests. Desert bluebells are excellent for rock gardens, mixed borders, patios, and containers.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-24 inches tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Annual
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Grows in dry soil but prefers well-drained, chalk, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – all parts of the plant are poisonous to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/49307867082_fdf6b629eb_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: A S / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA good candidate for xeriscaping in Nevada, desert holly is a beautiful and resilient desert plant that can tolerate various temperatures and soil types. It’s native to the Southwest and can be found in areas like the Mojave Desert and the Great Basin. You’ll find it commonly planted in cities like Las Vegas and Reno.
\n\n\n\nDesert holly has a unique appearance with spiky, silvery-green leaves that shimmer in the sunlight. This small, perennial plant is evergreen in warmer climates but may lose its leaves during colder winters. It blooms in the late spring and summer and produces small, inconspicuous greenish-yellow flowers.
\n\n\n\nWith its silvery foliage and spiky appearance that makes it stand out among other desert plants, this drought-tolerant plant doesn’t require much watering. It also can tolerate high alkalinity.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-5 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained, stony, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Desert](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Desert-Marigold.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith its natural habitat being in the Mojave Desert, this short-lived perennial is best suited for gardens in Southern Nevada. It blooms from February to November, producing vibrant yellow flowers that attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Along with the plant’s fern-like leaves that have a soft texture and blue-green color, these daisy-like flowers can add a pop of color to any desert garden.
\n\n\n\nThis flowering plant is deer-resistant and can thrive even in dry soil. Plus, it’s drought-tolerant and requires low water, making it an ideal choice for desert landscaping. To make it more beautiful in your garden, deadhead the spent flowers regularly to promote continuous blooming. Additionally, pruning it back in the fall can help it maintain its shape and keep it looking healthy.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-2 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Short-lived perennial or biennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, moist, clay, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low – once a month watering once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Highly toxic, especially to sheep and goats
\n\n\n\n![\"Desert](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Desert-Sage.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Walter Siegmund / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDesert sage is another desert landscaping plant well-suited to the arid climate of Nevada. This hardy perennial is native to the western United States and grows in the wild throughout Nevada’s desert regions. Due to its cold hardiness and ability to withstand winter temperatures, it’s particularly well-suited to gardens in Northern Nevada.
\n\n\n\nThis member of the mint family produces clusters of fragrant, pale purple flowers on spikes reaching up to 2 feet. The leaves are an attractive silvery-gray color with a woolly texture, and the shrub’s overall form is compact. Prune it back after the blooming season to encourage new growth and prevent woody stems from forming.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to plant desert sage is in the fall, allowing it to establish its roots before the hot summer months. This drought-tolerant perennial is relatively low-maintenance and requires little water once established – making it an ideal addition to gravel and rock gardens, xeriscapes, and other water-wise landscaping designs.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Thrives in well-drained, dry, chalk, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic, especially to cats
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/2574684229_2588e9e3f9_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ken Bosma / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative to the southwestern U.S. and Mexico, desert willow is commonly found in areas with hot, dry summers and mild winters. It can be planted in both northern and southern regions of Nevada, as long as it’s given adequate water and care.
\n\n\n\nWith long, narrow, and willow-like leaves and a light gray bark with a smooth texture, desert willow is a low-maintenance plant that requires low water once established. This beautiful and hardy plant blooms in the late spring or early summer. It produces showy, trumpet-shaped flowers that range in color from pink to purple to white. It is a larval host to several species of butterflies, making it a great addition to a pollinator garden.
\n\n\n\nPrune it lightly in the winter to promote healthy growth, and water it deeply once a week during the summer months. You also can surround it with other native plants and wildflowers to create a vibrant and diverse landscape.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained soil but grows well in most soil types
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – but its bark can be poisonous to animals, especially cats
\n\n\n\n![\"Firecracker](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Firecracker-penstemon.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCommonly found in the wild in various regions of Nevada, including the Great Basin, Mojave Desert, and Sierra Nevada Mountains, firecracker penstemon can live for many years. Its natural habitat is rocky or sandy soils, often in dry washes, and it’s well-suited for hot, arid climates.
\n\n\n\nFirecracker penstemon produces striking red-orange flowers that resemble firecrackers, hence the name. Its blooms appear in late spring to early summer and are popular with bees, hummingbirds, and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nThis drought-tolerant perennial plant has long, narrow leaves with a blue-green hue and a slightly hairy texture. Planting it in well-draining soil and full sun will promote optimal growth and flowering, but you’ll want to deadhead spent blooms regularly. Additionally, pruning the plant back by one-third in the fall will encourage a more compact and bushy habit.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Forb to shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall and 1-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen to evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers moderately well-drained, loamy, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – can be poisonous, and even fatal, to pets and children
\n\n\n\n![\"Golden](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Golden-Barrel-Cactus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Cliff from Arlington, Virginia, USA / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKnown for its striking appearance and easy maintenance, the golden barrel cactus is commonly planted in xeriscapes and rock gardens in Southern Nevada. This cactus is native to the hot, dry regions of central Mexico, but it is well-suited to the desert climates of Southern Nevada. It can provide shelter for small desert animals, such as lizards and rodents.
\n\n\n\nExtremely drought-tolerant, golden barrel cactus does not require much watering. In fact, overwatering this succulent can lead to root rot and other diseases. It’s also fairly low-maintenance and does not require much pruning or fertilization. Plus, it can thrive even in dry, rocky soil and produce small, yellow flowers in the summer. With its round, ball-shaped form and golden-yellow spines, it’s a striking addition to any desert landscape.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus or succulent
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-12
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, loamy, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – its sap can cause skin irritations and its spines are also harmful
\n\n\n\n![\"Honey](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Honey-Mesquite.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Don A.W. Carlson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative to the Chihuahuan, Sonoran, and Mojave deserts, honey mesquite is well adapted to the hot, dry conditions of Nevada. This hardy, drought-tolerant tree is a staple of the arid Southwest. It can be found in many regions throughout the state, including Southern Nevada, where it’s commonly planted in urban and residential areas.
\n\n\n\nThis deciduous tree blooms from late spring to early summer, producing small, yellowish-green flowers highly attractive to bees and other pollinators. The tree’s leaves are feathery and light green, and its bark is rough and gray-brown. Its long, flat, and brown fruits contain sweet, edible pods that have been used for food by indigenous peoples for thousands of years.
\n\n\n\nOnce established, this perennial plant requires minimal watering – making it a low-maintenance and water-efficient choice for desert landscaping. To make honey mesquite more beautiful in your garden, you can prune it to maintain its shape and promote healthy growth.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 20-30 feet tall, 25-30 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Grows in most soil types but prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low – doesn’t need supplemental watering once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Can be toxic to animals if consumed in large amounts
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Joshua_Trees_Yucca_brevifolia_in_Joshua_Tree_National_Park-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brocken Inaglory / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJoshua tree is a unique and iconic plant that thrives in the Mojave Desert. This desert tree is commonly found in the southern region of Nevada, including areas like Las Vegas and the Mojave National Preserve. It’s best suited for landscaping in this region due to its specific habitat requirements.
\n\n\n\nIn the wild, this slow-growing tree can grow more than 30 feet tall and have a lifespan of hundreds of years. With its tall, spiky branches and green, sword-like leaves, the Joshua tree has a distinctive look that makes it seem like an extremely tall person from a distance. It blooms from late winter to early spring, producing large clusters of creamy white flowers that attract pollinators like the yucca moth.
\n\n\n\nWhile growing Joshua trees from seeds may be challenging, transplanting young trees can be successful. The best time to plant Joshua trees in a garden is during winter – when temperatures are cooler. It requires low maintenance and little water once established. But you can install low-level lighting to highlight the tree’s unique form and create a stunning nighttime display.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained, coarse soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – can be severely poisonous
\n\n\n\n![\"Lipstick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Lipstick-Echeveria.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Photo by David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA popular and stunning succulent, lipstick echeveria is well-suited for desert gardening in both the northern and southern regions of Nevada, as it can tolerate a range of temperatures and soil conditions. This evergreen plant is native to Mexico and is often found growing in rocky areas, making it an ideal choice for gardens with gravel or rocky soil.
\n\n\n\nThis rosette-forming succulent blooms in late spring or early summer with small, bell-shaped flowers in shades of red, orange, or yellow. Its leaves are fleshy and triangular, with a distinct red tip resembling lipstick.
\n\n\n\nYou can propagate it easily from leaf or stem cuttings. But as with most succulents, you must be careful when handling the plant as its leaves can be sharp and may cause skin irritation. Lipstick Echeveria is drought-tolerant and requires little water. It’s relatively disease-free, but watch out for aphids, vine weevil, and mealybugs.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus or succulent
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-12
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6 inches tall and 8-12 inches wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Grows well in well-drained, rocky, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – but it’s still not advisable to ingest any of its parts
\n\n\n\n![\"Prickly](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Prickly-pears-on-Opuntia-ficus-indica-Naxos-Greece.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mark Burgess / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAlso known as Opuntia, prickly pear is one of the most versatile and adaptable succulents ideal for gardens throughout Nevada. This native plant grows wild in many areas across Nevada’s desert landscape, such as the Mojave Desert and the Great Basin Desert. It’s highly resistant to diseases but can be susceptible to mealybugs and cochineal scale.
\n\n\n\nIt has flat, paddle-shaped leaves with spines that grow from the edges. The pads can be green to blue-green, and some even have a purplish tint. In the spring, prickly pear produces beautiful yellow, orange, or red flowers that bloom for several weeks, attracting bees and other pollinators. It’s a larval host for the cactus moth and several species of butterflies.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial succulent can survive in harsh desert conditions with little water, rendering it low maintenance and ideal for homeowners who want a beautiful garden without too much upkeep. It is also drought-tolerant and can store water in its leaves, perfect for xeriscape gardens, hedges, screens, garden beds, and borders that focus on water conservation.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus or succulent
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-12
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall and 5-10 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, sandy, or loamy soil but grows well even in dry, rocky soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – its fruit is edible but can be poisonous to children and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"Rose](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rose-Sage.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dick Culbert from Gibsons, B.C., Canada / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRose sage is commonly found in the wild, growing on rocky slopes and dry hillsides throughout Nevada. With a natural habitat spanning from Northern Mexico to Southern Utah and California, this evergreen shrub is perfect for desert gardens in Southern Nevada – particularly in the Mojave Desert region, as it thrives in hot, arid conditions.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial plant blooms in the summer and early fall, producing delicate, pink flowers that contrast beautifully against its silvery-green, fuzzy leaves. To grow rose sage, it’s best to plant it in the fall or early spring, allowing it time to establish its roots before the hot summer months. It’s a perfect addition to gravel and rock gardens, patios, containers, and butterfly gardens.
\n\n\n\nRose sage requires well-draining soil and can be drought-tolerant once established. However, it benefits from occasional deep watering during prolonged periods of drought. As a desert plant, it does not require much fertilizer and can even thrive in poor, dry soil.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-3 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun – but can tolerate shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Grows well in well-drained, chalk, loamy, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic, especially to dogs
\n\n\n\n![\"Sticky](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Sticky-Purple-Geranium.jpg\")
Photo Credit: brewbooks / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDue to its preference for hot, dry climates, sticky purple geranium is well-suited for gardens in Southern Nevada. Commonly found in rocky, desert areas of the Southwest, this wildflower’s natural habitat is typically in well-drained soils with full sun exposure. It blooms from late spring through summer, producing gorgeous magenta-purple flowers.
\n\n\n\nThe plant’s leaves are deeply lobed and have a sticky texture, hence its name. They are bright green – a great contrast to the striking purple flowers. It’s a relatively low-maintenance plant that’s also highly resistant to diseases and pests. To plant this lovely perennial, the best time is during mild weather in the early spring.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, dry-mesic to moist, sandy, clay, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Mildly toxic – geraniums can be poisonous to children and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"Texas](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Texas-Olive.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAlso known as Anacahuita or wild olive, Texas olive is a fantastic choice for desert landscaping in Nevada. Although it’s native to South Texas and Mexico, it has adapted well to Nevada’s hot and dry climate. It has glossy, dark green leaves that give it a tropical appearance. It produces fragrant pink and white flowers in the spring and summer, attracting pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nIn Nevada, Texas olive is commonly planted in residential landscapes and public spaces, including parks and street medians. It’s tolerant of various soil types and requires little water once established, making it a low-maintenance option for homeowners.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to plant Texas olive in the spring or fall when temperatures are cooler. This way, the plant can establish its roots before the summer heat arrives. Also, prune it to maintain its shape and remove any dead or damaged branches.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen to semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers dry, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil but can thrive even in rocky soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Mildly toxic – its raw fruits can be slightly poisonous
\n\n\n\n![\"Utah](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Utah-Agave.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUtah agave is particularly well-suited to the dry and arid climate of Nevada, as it thrives in hot and sunny conditions. As such, it’s a great option for homeowners throughout the state who are looking to add low-maintenance greenery to their yards. Also known as Utah century plant, this succulent can tolerate a vast range of temperatures.
\n\n\n\nThe plant typically blooms in the late spring or early summer, producing a tall stalk of yellow flowers that can grow up to 20 feet tall. Its bluish-green leaves with spiky, symmetrical shape make it more appealing. This slow-growing plant can take several years to reach maturity, but it’s well worth the wait for its stunning appearance.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus or succulent
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-24 inches tall and 1-3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers dry, well-drained, neutral to acidic, loamy, sandy, or rocky soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low – rarely needs watering once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – its sap can be poisonous to both humans and pets, while its needle-sharp spines can be hazardous
\n\n\n\nSince the desert climate presents a huge challenge when it comes to landscaping, it’s crucial to choose the right plants to create a thriving, low-maintenance garden that can withstand harsh environmentals and limited water resources. Consider the following factors to discover if a plant is good for the desert:
\n\n\n\n✓ Native or desert-adapted: Select plants that are native to the region or have adapted to the arid conditions. These plants are already equipped with the ability to store water, resist drought, and handle high temperatures. They also provide important habitats and food sources for local wildlife.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low watering needs: Desert plants should be able to thrive with minimal watering once established, reducing the need for excessive irrigation. Look for plants with deep root systems that can access water from lower in the soil profile.
\n\n\n\n✓ Color: Plants with silver or gray foliage can reflect sunlight and reduce water loss through transpiration, while those with deep green foliage may require more water.
\n\n\n\n✓ Texture: Plants with spiky leaves or thorns can help deter animals from feeding on them, while softer, more succulent plants may be more vulnerable to damage.
\n\n\n\n✓ Beneficial: Look for plants that offer multiple benefits, such as providing shade, enhancing air quality, or attracting pollinators. Examples include trees like honey mesquite and blue palo verde, which provide shade while also fixing nitrogen in the soil, and native wildflowers like desert marigold and firecracker penstemon, which attract bees and butterflies while adding bursts of color to the landscape.
\n\n\n\nBy choosing the right desert landscaping plants, you can create a beautiful, sustainable garden that thrives in the unique conditions of your region. Depending on where you live in Nevada, the following information may serve as a guide. Note, though, that these data may still vary since they are just average numbers for each region.
\n\n\n\nNorthern Nevada:
\n\n\n\nSouthern Nevada:
\n\n\n\nCentral Nevada:
\n\n\n\nWestern Nevada:
\n\n\n\nWhile palm trees may not be the first that comes to mind when you think of Nevada’s desert climate, they can actually thrive in certain regions of the state. The best region for planting palm trees in the state is Southern Nevada, including the Las Vegas Valley area.
This area has a hot, arid climate, with mild winters and hot summers, making it suitable for planting palm trees. Still, you must choose palm tree varieties that are low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. Some popular varieties for Southern Nevada include Mexican fan palm, date palm, and Mediterranean fan palm.
Yes, there are watering restrictions in place in certain regions of Nevada, particularly in the southern part of the state, due to ongoing drought conditions. The restrictions are designed to help conserve water and ensure that there is enough for essential uses like drinking, sanitation, and firefighting.
In Las Vegas, for example, the Southern Nevada Water Authority has implemented a year-round watering schedule that limits the use of drip irrigation systems and outdoor watering to three assigned days per week based on the property’s address. Additionally, there are restrictions on the time of day when watering is allowed, with no watering permitted between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. from May 1 to Aug. 31.
Other parts of southern Nevada, including Henderson and North Las Vegas, also have similar watering restrictions in place.
To ensure your Las Vegas landscape remains green and lush, your lawn must be able to withstand the city’s hot, arid climate. Bermudagrass is among the most popular grass types for this area, which is renowned for its drought tolerance and ability to thrive in full sun. This warm-season grass, once established, can survive the sweltering summer heat and cold winters with minimal maintenance.
However, note that certain areas of Nevada, including the Las Vegas Valley, have prohibited the use of non-functional grass through legislation. Homeowners and businesses must replace ornamental turf with water-efficient landscaping or hardscaping.
Non-functional grass is defined as turf that serves no practical purpose or functionality, like grass in medians or large lawns that are infrequently used. The goal of this legislation is to conserve water and encourage sustainable landscaping practices in the area.
When it comes to landscape designs for front yards and backyards in the Nevada desert, choosing the right plants is crucial. From drought-tolerant trees to vibrant succulents, there are numerous options to enhance the beauty and functionality of your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nChoose plants that are already adapted to the local climate and soil, so you can save water, reduce maintenance, and enjoy a thriving landscape year-round. With so many desert landscaping plants available, there’s sure to be one that suits your style, budget, and preferences.
\n\n\n\nWhether you’re living in Las Vegas or another city in Nevada, you should start planning your desert landscape today. Reach out to a landscaping pro for help in creating a beautiful and sustainable outdoor space that you can enjoy for years to come.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ken Lund from Reno, Nevada, USA / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
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\n","content":"\nIn the Midwestern transition zone, your Missouri lawn endures both sweltering summers and freezing winters. This makes a perfect recipe for a dull, grim lawn if your yard doesn’t have the right grass seeds to pull through the temperamental climate.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we look at warm- and cool-season grass varieties that work well in Missouri, along with their pros and cons to help you pick the best grass for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nBefore we get to the list, here’s a quick rundown of what cool-season grasses are like:
\n\n\n\nLet’s dig into these three best cool-season grasses for your Missouri lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is excellent for a Missouri landscape. It’s developed by seed or sod and grows coarse-to-medium-textured, tall turfgrass. This grass tolerates high temperatures, heat, drought, and shade. Given proper care, tall fescue lawns can even stay green all around the year. Plus, it’s a pretty low-maintenance grass.
\n\n\n\nTall Fescue may struggle a little in hotter parts of Missouri during the summer months but survives better in the heat than all other cool-season grasses. It can grow in poor soil conditions and with little fertilization, too. Generally, tall fescue is also highly resistant to pests and diseases and grows best during the fall and spring months.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high – may need irrigation during dry summers
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 – 4 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis dark green, fine-bladed grass type will give your Missouri lawn a temporary pop of color for the winter. Perennial ryegrass is fast germinating and suppresses weeds naturally by establishing quickly.
\n\n\n\nOf all cool-season grasses, ryegrass has the highest wear tolerance, which is why it is popular for parks and golf courses. However, it is less tolerant of heat and drought compared to other species.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass develops tapered, fine-textured, shiny blades that require regular maintenance to keep a uniform look. It is considered a nurse grass, meaning it’s often mixed with other grasses to provide shade and protection to less hardy grass types, such as Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type, extends with tillers
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, look out for red thread, brown patch, and rust
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Kentucky](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass establishes a dense turf and is a popular choice for northern areas due to its winter hardiness. It has a bluish-green color and has a medium texture – not too hard, not too soft – to make a great “barefoot grass”.
\n\n\n\nBut Kentucky bluegrass is high-maintenance. It needs more water and fertilizer than any other cool-season grass type. It prefers areas with partial shade and spreads quickly by rhizomes. It is often mixed with other grass species, typically perennial ryegrass, to create a disease-resistant, tough turf that maintains a nice green appearance year-round.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low, prefers sunlight
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA quick overview of warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nHere are two warm-season grasses that do well in Missouri lawns:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most widely used grass in Southern Missouri. It’s well suited for your Missouri lawn because it is hardy, low-maintenance, and develops dense turf. Bermudagrass spreads vigorously with stolons and rhizomes and has excellent resistance to foot traffic and wear due to these woven roots.
\n\n\n\nThe dense Bermudagrass turf also naturally crowds out weeds. This grass type is fast-growing and resistant to salinity, heat, and a wide range of soil pHs. However, the rapid growth rate can become a nuisance if the grass invades gardens or flower beds.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass needs full, bright sun to thrive and regular dethatching to stay disease free. It goes brown and dormant in the winter and greens back up around early April.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Zoysiagrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Rivera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis is a cold-tolerant and thick warm-season grass that will keep your Missouri lawn green for the most part of the year. It’s a popular choice for homeowners with kids and pets because of its hardiness and impeccable foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass thrives in direct sunlight and develops a dark green color turf. This lush green color slowly fades as the temperature drops but won’t turn brown or tan. Since it develops into a dense lawn by stolons and rhizomes, Zoysia lawns are often vulnerable to thatch.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass needs frequent watering during the summer but is super easy to maintain otherwise. It tackles a good amount of foot traffic too.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nThe most commonly used grass in Missouri is turf-type tall fescue. It is drought, heat, disease, and insect resistant and does fine with moderately shaded environments too.
The optimal time to plant grass in Missouri is late August to mid-October, September being ideal. At this time, the soil is still warm but the chilly breezes help grass seeds germinate faster.
Tall fescue can maintain a deep green color all year if you care for it properly. It’s well-known for its ability to thrive in transition zones with minimal maintenance.
If you’re confused about what grass type suits your lawn, when and how to plant it, or you don’t have the time to set a lawn up by yourself, call in one of our lawn care pros to help. Our pros come equipped with all the knowledge, equipment, and expertise that you need to choose the right grass type for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Hippopx
\n","title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/107df/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/293e9/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/f2cbb/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/c26c2/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/67b76/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/8df11/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/98a65/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/3cc96/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Trying to find a grass that will survive the temperamental climate of Missouri? Here are five best grasses to liven up your Missouri lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"a210566d-8556-544b-abf9-97ed52f969ca","slug":"the-worst-bugs-in-dallas-and-how-to-get-rid-of-them","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/the-worst-bugs-in-dallas-and-how-to-get-rid-of-them/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"84a346a7-9ce4-5d70-a95f-abcea3779ced","name":"Pests and Diseases","count":10,"path":"/category/pests-and-diseases/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"},{"id":"f47748ec-2ca2-5e01-9cbd-e56dc7932c0d","name":"Zone 8a","count":3,"path":"/category/zone-8a/"}],"date":"June 18th, 2019","excerpt":"Texas is one of the most bug-diverse locations in the U.S. and home to almost 30,000 species of insects. Thanks to “Big D’s’ subtropical climate, 40 inches of annual rain, and average daily temperatures around 78 degrees Fahrenheit, the Metroplex is a bug’s paradise. We compiled a list of the 11 worst bugs in Dallas, […]
\n","content":"\nTexas is one of the most bug-diverse locations in the U.S. and home to almost 30,000 species of insects. Thanks to “Big D’s’ subtropical climate, 40 inches of annual rain, and average daily temperatures around 78 degrees Fahrenheit, the Metroplex is a bug’s paradise. We compiled a list of the 11 worst bugs in Dallas, including tips on how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nInsects are vital to the well-being of our ecosystems. Unfortunately, that does not mean we want them in our homes or infesting our garden plants. While many insects are beneficial or neutral, some species are destructive and should be controlled.
\n\n\n\nHere are some reasons why pest control is important:
\n\n\n\nThere are two ways to control pests in your lawn and around your home: chemical treatments and organic methods. Organic methods are the safest treatment options, but these methods aren’t always the best and many are ineffective. Be sure to identify the type of pest you are dealing with before selecting your removal method.
\n\n\n\nIt is always advisable to hire a professional pest control company to perform quarterly treatments inside and outside of your home. These methods are the safest and most effective for your family and pets.
\n\n\n\nExperts agree home pest control is necessary, and many Dallas-Fort Worth critters can be prevented. Organic pest control has come a long way and is safer than chemical treatment options for your pets and children. However, it is also typically less effective.
\n\n\n\nCheck out some available organic pest control options:
\n\n\n\nChemical pest control treatments are more effective than organic techniques. They control rodents and insects, stopping the spread of dangerous bacteria and diseases.
\n\n\n\nSome popular chemical treatments include:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Crematogaster_ashmeadi_casent0103762_profile_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: April Nobile / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 4.0
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, acrobat ants stray far from the circus into your Dallas yard. These reddish-brown and black ants grow to ⅛ inch and have distinctive, heart-shaped abdomens. They emit an odor when threatened and raise their abdomen over their head in a feat of acrobatics. Omnivorous colonies of a few thousand members eat honeydew from aphids, dead or living insects, and mealybugs.
\n\n\n\nAcrobat ants rarely nest in the open or enter homes. They love moisture and live under rocks, logs, trees, and wood piles. The most obvious sign of an infestation is an ant trail. These foragers travel up to 100 feet from their nest in search of resources.
\n\n\n\nThe easiest way to prevent these moisture-loving pests is to eliminate sources of standing water, keep your yard clear of fallen branches and logs, and store firewood at least 5 inches from the ground.
\n\n\n\nIf you are unlucky and find these predatory ants around your home, opt for a foam insecticide sprayed directly on the nest indoors or a non-repellent pesticide outdoors.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Crematogaster
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist areas under rocks, logs, trees, or wood piles
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; emit an odor when threatened, occasionally bites when disturbed
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Repellent and non-repellent pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/adult-bed-bug-cimex-lectularius-ee47a5-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Picryl
\n\n\n\nFew bugs make your skin crawl by mere mention like bed bugs. These indoor vampiric pests are small and brownish-red with flat, oval-shaped bodies and six legs. They grow to ¼ inch and feed on blood, preferably human blood.
\n\n\n\nThese pests are hitchhikers and have no environmental preferences aside from the presence of humans. Bed bugs enter your home through clothes, belongings, and luggage. They are nocturnal and most active from April to November, hiding in mattresses, box springs, baseboards, and outlets.
\n\n\n\nPrevent bed bugs by keeping your luggage and personal belongings off the ground while traveling. Do not purchase used furniture or mattresses and wash used clothing immediately.
\n\n\n\nIf you suspect bed bugs have infested your home, contact a local exterminator. Professional removal is the best way to eradicate a bed bug infestation, and many experts rely on organic heat treatments.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Cimicidae
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Anywhere where humans live
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; but can cause red rashes that can lead to secondary infections in some people
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Professional pest control services, including heat treatments
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Camponotus_sideview_2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Richard Bartz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.5
\n\n\n\nThere are 14 species of carpenter ants in Texas, and the largest species is the black carpenter ant. Thankfully, these pests prefer wooded outdoor areas, including old stumps, decaying logs, and firewood. Carpenter ants are brown-red with black abdomens and reach up to 1⁄2 inch long.
\n\n\n\nThese ants can cause structural damage to homes, though it is rare. You may find them between wood shingles, siding, or fascia boards. Identify carpenter ant tunnels and nests by looking for sawdust near openings. Like acrobat ants, these omnivores forage for decaying fruits, honeydew from aphids, and live or dead insects.
\n\n\n\nPrevent carpenter ants by eliminating moisture problems and sealing cracks or openings near your foundation. Remove dead branches and trim trees away from structures.
\n\n\n\nCarpenter ants have chewing mouthparts and stingers. They can bite but do not sting. Remove them from your home by using a propellant foam insecticide. Similarly, use a pyrethroid insecticide outdoors to eliminate the nest and trails.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Camponotus
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Dead or decaying wood, stumps, logs, or weakened building materials
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; bites when disturbed, causes structural damage to wood
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Repellent and non-repellent pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Hairy_Chinch_Bug_-_Blissus_leucopteru_50594763067-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Christina Butler / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs are 3/16 inch long with black bodies and white wings. They feed on the sap of grasses, commonly occurring in bunch grasses and Dallas turfgrasses, including bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nWatch for round, localized yellow or brown spots in your yard, typically from July to August.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, chinch bugs are drawn to heat, sun, and warm-season grasses. Your best defense against these nuisance pests is proper lawn maintenance, including watering, mowing, and fertilizing.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. Additionally, use a granular insecticide for lawn pests.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Blissus leucopterus
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Bunch grasses and turfgrasses, including bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; medically harmless but capable of injuring plants and turfgrass
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Granular lawn pesticide or coffee can method
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Periplaneta_americana_-_D8-10-2861Crop.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eran Finkle / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nYou can find cockroaches all over the world, and Dallas is no exception. Home to the American cockroach, German cockroach, and oriental cockroach, these pests have a thick shell of armor covering their oval bodies, six legs, and two long antennae. Both the American and German cockroach species have fully developed wings for flying.
\n\n\n\nCockroaches love moisture, including drains, flower beds, and mulch. They seek shelter indoors during bad weather, hiding in laundry rooms, bathrooms, kitchens, and basements. These nuisance pests spread disease, contaminate food, emit odors, worsen allergies, and even trigger asthma attacks.
\n\n\n\nPrevent cockroaches around your home and yard by creating a barrier between your home and mulched beds, locking your outdoor trash can lids, sealing foundation gaps, and eliminating standing water. Keep living areas clean and vacuumed and use dehumidifiers to reduce humidity levels.
\n\n\n\nGlue traps, bait stations, and repellent pesticides are the best indoor removal methods while you can use non-repellent pesticides outdoors around your lawn.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Periplaneta
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist areas; drains, flower beds, mulch, laundry rooms, basements, kitchens, and bathrooms
\n\n\n\nDanger: High; carry diseases, contaminate food, emit odors, and trigger allergies and asthma attacks
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Glue traps, bait stations, and repellent and non-repellent pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/14878801786_985ed3d160_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Animal Diversity Web / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFire ants are as menacing as they sound. These reddish-brown insects are only ⅜ inch long with powerful jaws that deliver painful bites and stringers full of venom. Fire ants are aggressive and a year-round problem in the DFW area. Like carpenter and acrobat ants, they are omnivorous, eating fruit, meat, insects, earthworms, compost, outdoor pet food, and trash.
\n\n\n\nFire ants thrive in sunny areas and open spaces. Thankfully, their nests are easy to spot on your lawn as these insects create distinct granular mounds up to 4 feet in size.
\n\n\n\nPrevent fire ants by covering trash cans and treating at the first signs of infestation. It is important to maintain a proper watering schedule, ensuring you do not overwater your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere is no best control method for fire ants. You can use non-repellent pesticides or granular treatments.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Solenopsis
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Sunny, open areas
\n\n\n\nDanger: High; deliver painful bites but rarely sting
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Non-repellent pesticides and granular treatments
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Flea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Erturac / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nFleas are extremely common in Dallas, usually living on your furry animal friend. These tiny, wingless insects are dark brown and the size of a speck of dirt. There are more than 300 species of fleas, and each flea can produce around 500 offspring in its lifetime.
\n\n\n\nFleas enter your yard on the coats of wild animals and quickly jump from pet to human before making their way into your home. They also can find their way into your home through used furniture and clothing, but thankfully, fleas are mainly outdoor pests. These insects love tall grass, debris piles, and bushes.
\n\n\n\nPrevent fleas by grooming your pets, using year-round veterinary flea control, and keeping your lawn maintained. Trim bushes and shrubs and keep bird feeders away from your property.
\n\n\n\nThe best removal method for fleas is propellant insecticide. Alternatively, topical and oral prescriptions, flea shampoo, and pet-safe sprays are available for pet infestations.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Siphonaptera
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, shady areas
\n\n\n\nDanger: High; bites transmit diseases such as murine typhus, tularemia, and tungiasis
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Propellant pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mosquito_Culicidae_Cradley_Herefordshire_UK.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Gailhampshire / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMosquitoes love Dallas’ subtropical climate. These biting insects have oval-shaped bodies, long legs, and wings. They are brownish black and females feed on human and animal blood, but the mosquito’s primary food source is plant nectar.
\n\n\n\nMosquitoes cause itchy red bumps and spread diseases like Zika virus, encephalitis, and West Nile virus.
\n\n\n\nPrevent these pests by eliminating standing water and food sources. They thrive in moist areas with a lot of flowering vegetation, including ponds, wooded areas, and near swimming pools. Limit flowering plants near your home and maintain proper yard drainage to eliminate standing water.
\n\n\n\nPerform routine yard maintenance, cutting back overgrown vegetation. Professional pest control plans often offer add-on outdoor mosquito control. Additionally, use non-repellent insecticides to help maintain a mosquito-free yard.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Culicidae
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist, high-vegetation areas such as forests, ponds, and tall grasses
\n\n\n\nDanger: High; female bites transmit diseases such as West Nile virus, encephalitis, and Zika virus
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Non-repellent pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/fauna-invertebrate-close-up-spider-arachnid-india-443985-pxhere.com_.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nSpiders catch a bad rap for being scary. These beneficial arachnids are vital to the ecosystem. They have eight legs and two distinct body regions. The most common species found in the Metroplex are black widows, brown recluses, and wolf spiders.
\n\n\n\nMost spider species are not a direct threat to humans. However, the brown recluse and black widow spiders are venomous. Their bites can cause serious reactions in some people.
\n\n\n\nIf you notice webs and have a spider infestation in your yard, it is a signal you have a larger underlying infestation. Spiders move into an area where large populations of insects live and love secluded areas to hide, like garden sheds, tall grasses, covered porches, basements, garages, and crawl spaces.
\n\n\n\nPrevent spiders by eliminating hiding places, maintaining your lawn, and reducing the number of smaller pests in your yard.
\n\n\n\nKnock out an indoor infestation with a repellent pesticide or use a non-repellent pesticide outdoors.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Araneae
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; seek shelters and areas to hide
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; venomous spiders can cause allergic reactions in some people
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Repellent and non-repellent pesticides
\n\n\n\n![\"5-6](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/3049109271_68829f87c4_c-1-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean and Fred Hort / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nTermites are beneficial insects in nature. However, once these wood-chomping social insects wander indoors or near homes, they pose a serious problem. Termites live in large colonies. They are cream, yellow, or brown with elongated bodies and enormous jaws.
\n\n\n\nTermites can cause severe structural damage if left untreated, and unfortunately, most homeowners’ insurance does not cover termite damage. These insects love moist areas such as leaking pipes, basements, foundations, and beneath decks.
\n\n\n\nThe best termite prevention and control is to hire a pest control expert. A routine termite inspection and prevention plan offers peace of mind. If your termite infestation is isolated and contained to the outdoors, you can opt for a DIY solution using a termiticide, a pesticide designed specifically for termites.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Isoptera
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Dark, moist areas with minimal air exposure
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; cause structural damage
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Professional pest control and termiticide
\n\n\n\n![\"An](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/6980305991_3209cd81a6_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sid Mosdell / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWasps help control insect populations and help pollination. The most common wasp in the Dallas Fort Worth area is paper wasps, recognizable for their pinched waists and long legs. They are black or brown with bright yellow markings and gray wings.
\n\n\n\nPaper wasps are aggressive if their nests are threatened. They are venomous, and some people develop allergic reactions to their stings. These insects are adaptable, forming nests in shrubs, trees, windows, door frames, and overhangs.
\n\n\n\nPrevent wasps by properly sealing garbage cans and eliminating food sources around your entrances.
\n\n\n\nUse a repellent insecticide to treat infestations. When you are certain all residents are dead, scrape and remove the nest left behind.
\n\n\n\nInsect type: Vespidae
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Adaptable; form nests in shrubs, trees, door and window frames, and overhangs
\n\n\n\nDanger: High; deliver painful and venomous stings that can cause allergic reactions in some people
\n\n\n\nRemoval: Repellent pesticide
\n\n\n\nThe mild year-round weather is one of the most attractive things about Texas. Unfortunately, bugs love the subtropical climate as much as humans. Experts recommend quarterly pest control treatments for preventative maintenance.
No, bed bugs are extremely hard to exterminate completely once they have made their way into your home. Treatment requires specialized equipment and training. Your best hope of complete eradication starts by calling a professional in your area for a free quote.
Typically, pest control companies offer separate rodent services. Some companies offer a specialized rodent control and prevention program.
Pests are creepy, crawly nuisances that will inevitably pop up in your home or yard. The best defense against an invasion is routine lawn maintenance and a pest control prevention plan. There are many low-maintenance landscaping options available for Dallas, and be sure to check out our list of the best native plants that will thrive in your Texas landscape.
\n\n\n\nIf you need some help to control a pest invasion, contact a Dallas exterminator today to keep your family and lawn healthy year-round.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Wasp sitting on green leaf / Pexels
\n","title":"11 Worst Bugs in Dallas, TX (and How to Get Rid of Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2,"src":"/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/1789c/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/107df/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg 320w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/293e9/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg 500w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/f2cbb/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg 800w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/1789c/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg 960w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/c26c2/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/1dd6e/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/67b76/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp 320w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/8df11/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp 500w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/98a65/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp 800w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/1dd6e/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp 960w,\n/static/ad54f3c9a1577868f6cfd5d17b28d2a5/3cc96/pexels-skyler-ewing-4784891.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Worst Bugs in Dallas, TX (and How to Get Rid of Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Bugs are common in Dallas thanks to the subtropical climate. Get rid of them with a few simple tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"d3b8cd53-0983-5731-b5ef-469203c097e7","slug":"summer-lawn-care-guide","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/summer-lawn-care-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Dallas averages 234 sunny days every year. Its subtropical climate and notoriously hot summers come with their own rulebook for lawn care. Nutrient-less and hard clay soils plague the Metroplex, making lawn preparations important if your plants are going to survive the North Texas sun. Follow this guide to summer lawn care in Dallas to […]
\n","content":"\nDallas averages 234 sunny days every year. Its subtropical climate and notoriously hot summers come with their own rulebook for lawn care. Nutrient-less and hard clay soils plague the Metroplex, making lawn preparations important if your plants are going to survive the North Texas sun. Follow this guide to summer lawn care in Dallas to give your lawn a fighting chance against the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDallas is rainier than most Texas cities, averaging 40 inches annually. However, temps soar to 95 degrees Fahrenheit for most of the summer. These high temperatures and sunny days place a lot of stress on your Texas landscape.
\n\n\n\nMay is the wettest month of the year, and spring months are ideal for your plants and grass to establish healthy roots to help them survive the tough summer.
\n\n\n\nSummer is the most demanding and damaging time for your lawn. The excessive heat, potential drought conditions, and Dallas water restrictions can lead to a brown and stressed lawn, making proper lawn maintenance from June to September vital.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nHow you water and how often you water are equally important to your Texas landscape. Your Dallas native plants and turfgrass are adapted to withstand Dallas’ USDA hardiness zone 8, including heat and potential drought.
\n\n\n\nFollow Dallas’ ordinances and these watering tips to keep your landscape in the best shape throughout the summer:
\n\n\n\nIt’s important to note that an irrigation system with directed sprinkler heads removes the guesswork from determining how much water your lawn needs. You can program your system to apply the right amount of water for your grass type, saving you time and money while increasing the health of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass thrives in the dense clay North Texas soils. This popular turfgrass stands up to frequent foot traffic and loves full sun. Bermudagrass requires one to 1.25 inches of water per week.
\n\n\n\nWater your bermudagrass twice per week early in the morning before 9 a.m. Aim for 15 minutes of watering per zone for automatic pop-up head sprinklers and 35-minute sessions for rotary heads.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass appears to be the exact opposite of aggressive bermudagrass, but these warm-season grasses thrive in Dallas. St. Augustinegrass does not tolerate foot traffic and prefers partial sun or shade. The fast-growing grass requires only 1 inch of water per week, making it an economical choice for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWater St. Augustinegrass twice per week before 9 a.m. Water each zone for 15 minutes for pop-up head sprinklers, and 30 minutes for rotary heads.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass handles anything you throw at it: drought, traffic, shade, and even low temperatures. The dark green turfgrass requires little fertilization, and its dense blades block out weeds. Like St. Augustinegrass, it only requires 1 inch of water per week.
\n\n\n\nWater your Zoysiagrass lawn twice per week before 9 a.m. Aim for 15-minute sessions if you are using pop-up head sprinklers, and 30-minute sessions for rotary heads.
\n\n\n\nNative buffalograss grows well in the nutrientless clay soils, requiring little fertilization. However, the low-fuss grass does not stand up to heavy foot traffic or weeds. Like Zoysia and St. Augustine, this cultivar requires 1 inch of water per week.
\n\n\n\nWater your buffalograss before 9 a.m., twice per week. Aim for 15-minute sessions if you are using pop-up head sprinklers, and 30-minute sessions for rotary heads.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass does not handle traffic or herbicides. However, it is incredibly low-maintenance with low mowing and watering requirements. This smooth, flat-bladed turfgrass requires one to 1.25 inches of water per week to remain green.
\n\n\n\nWater centipedegrass twice per week before 9 a.m. If you are using pop-up head sprinklers, aim for 15-minute sessions. However, if you are using rotary heads, be sure to extend your sessions to 35 minutes.
\n\n\n\nWe all want to be in the pool or inside in the air conditioning, and it is really tempting to mow our lawns short to make less work for ourselves. However, cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to weeds, scorching, and dormancy.
\n\n\n\nYour grass should never change from green to brown after mowing. Brown grass signals a stressed lawn, meaning you have removed too much at one time. Be sure to raise your mower height after your lawn has recovered before your next mow.
\n\n\n\nTaller grass blades develop deeper roots and provide shade, cooling the soil underneath and minimizing evaporation, which makes your morning watering sessions more efficient. Your lawn will be lusher and stay greener, increasing your home’s curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nFollow these summer mowing tips for your warm-season grass:
\n\n\n\nThe recommended mowing height for bermudagrass is 1-2 inches using a traditional mower. During active growing seasons in the spring and early summer, plan to mow your lawn weekly, never cutting more than ⅓ of your grass’ total length.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass prefers higher heights in the summer to help water retention. You should mow your St. Augustine lawn every seven to 10 days, aiming for a mowing height of 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass actively grows in the summer, requiring regular mowing every five to seven days. Like bermudagrass, never cut more than ⅓ of your grass’ total length and aim to keep your lawn between one to two inches high.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss prefers higher heights like St. Augustinegrass. You should aim for a height between two to three inches, requiring a mowing session every seven to ten days.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is another turfgrass, preferring taller heights. Mow weekly with a traditional lawn mower, keeping your grass between 1.5 to two inches high.
\n\n\n\n![\"man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spreading-fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nFertilizer promotes healthy growth, but be careful, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape. Unseasonably hot and dry Texas summers can lead to dormant grass. It is tempting to over-fertilize your lawn. Unfortunately, this will have the opposite effect and harm your turfgrass by burning it.
\n\n\n\nHere are some summer fertilizing tips for your Dallas lawn:
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass thrives with regular fertilizer applications. During the summer, this turfgrass requires 0.5 to one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet every month. You should aim to apply 2 to 6 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet annually to keep your lawn healthy.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass has higher fertilization requirements, like bermudagrass. Apply 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn annually, or 0.5 to one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet monthly during the summer growing season.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass has the similar requirements to bermudagrass. During the summer growing season, apply 0.5 to one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn monthly for a total of 1 to 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet annually.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss has incredibly low fertilization requirements. In fact, some homeowners skip applications completely. Typically, buffalograss up to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn annually. Aim to apply 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during two months of the active summer growing season.
\n\n\n\nLow-maintenance centipede grass requires little fertilization. Aim for 1 pound of nitrogen-based fertilizer per 1,000 square feet applied twice, once in June and again in September.
\n\n\n\nTexas is one of the few places in the U.S. with clay soil. Unlike the loose, sandy soils of the Southeast, impacted and dense clay soils require biannual lawn aeration. Liquid aeration helps your lawn handle the intense heat and dry conditions of summer by opening pathways for air, sunshine, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil, resulting in deeper, more drought-resistant roots.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and St. Augustinegrass, require liquid aeration applications in late spring before summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\n![\"an](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spraying-pesticide.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nPlenty of pests hide from the heat of the Texas sun, seeking shaded areas under decks and logs. Unfortunately, white grubs, chinch bugs, and fire ants are notoriously sun-loving Dallas pests that can wreak havoc on your warm-season turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nKeep these pest control tips in mind this summer:
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most popular turfgrass choice for Texas lawns. Unfortunately, it has a low resistance to unfriendly visitors. It is prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, army worms, and sod webworms.
\n\n\n\nRegular lawn maintenance and irrigation help combat pest infestations. Additionally, spray a non-repellent broad-spectrum insecticide over infected areas to combat pests.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is fast-growing and shade-loving. It also attracts many pests, including chinch bugs, cutworms, mole crickets, grass loopers, army worms, web worms, and grubs.
\n\n\n\nCombat pests ruining your lush lawn by using a non-repellent broad-spectrum insecticide. Be sure to look for one containing carbaryl, trichlorfon, or pyrethroid if you are dealing with chinch bugs or grubs.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass stands up to most pests thanks to its thick leaf blades and dense structure. Occasionally, mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, army worms, chinch bugs, or sod webworms will move in and set up residence in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAlways wait until your grass has greened in the spring or early summer to apply insecticides. Use spot treatments of broad-spectrum pesticides as needed to combat insect infestations.
\n\n\n\nNative buffalograss resists most pests. However, mealybugs, buffalograss webworms, mites, short-tailed crickets, and chinch bugs can cause the occasional headache.
\n\n\n\nSpot treat affected areas with broad-spectrum repellent-free pesticide.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is low-maintenance and prefers to be left alone. It is moderately prone to pests, including ground pearl insects, grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, and lawn caterpillars.
\n\n\n\nIrrigate and mow your lawn 24 hours before insecticide applications. Treat affected areas with a broad-spectrum non-repellent insecticide containing carbaryl or pyrethroid. Aim to apply preventative treatments in May before the heat of summer sets in and follow-up with another application in June.
\n\n\n\nTurfgrass diseases and weeds love a weak lawn and signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health. They love low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds steal vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and plants while simultaneously spreading pests and diseases.
\n\n\n\nMaintain a healthy lawn with routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization schedules, and weeds and diseases won’t stand a chance. There are two ways to control weeds in your lawn: chemical treatments and hand pulling. Pulling weeds by hand is the safest removal method, but it isn’t always the best method. Be sure to identify the type of weed you are dealing with before selecting your removal method.
\n\n\n\nFollow these summer weeding tips to maintain a healthy lawn:
\n\n\n\nOne of the star attributes that makes bermudagrass so popular in North Texas is its disease-resistance. If you are unlucky enough to experience a disease infestation with your bermudagrass, chances are good it is spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, or sheath spot.
\n\n\n\nCombat bermudagrass weeds and diseases using a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit. If you notice brown patches with regular and smooth outlines caused by fungal diseases, treat your entire lawn with a fungicide designed for bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nFor all its strengths, St. Augustinegrass falls short in the disease-resistance category. It is moderately to highly prone to diseases such as gray leaf spot, large patch, and take-all root rot.
\n\n\n\nCombat fungal diseases in your St. Augustine lawn with an indoor-outdoor fungicide and disinfectant designed for plants.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is incredibly resistant to most diseases. However, large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur.
\n\n\n\nLike St. Augustinegrass, fungal diseases are the most common. Treat your lawn with a preventative fungicide program. Apply fungicide in the spring to decrease your chances of developing diseases like large patch. If you notice dead spots in your lawn and have ruled out insect activity, treat the affected area with an indoor-outdoor fungicide and disinfectant for plants.
\n\n\n\nThanks to its adaptability, buffalograss has high disease-resistance. Treat the most common problem, bipolaris leaf spot, with preventative fungicide at the first sign of brown patches.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is moderately disease-tolerant. It is prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis. Combat these lawn diseases with proper lawn maintenance and apply 2 ounces of iron sulfate per 1,000 square feet if you notice yellowing.
\n\n\n\nSucculents thrive in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Typically, water your succulent plants once per week when it has not rained.
Organic mulch provides moisture retention and nutrients for your plants. Experts recommend laying new mulch on top of your existing mulch annually in the spring after the last frost.
Dallas adopted lawn and landscape irrigation ordinances in 2012 to defer the costs of expanding the city’s water supply infrastructure. Drip irrigation, hand watering, and soaker hoses are allowed at any time and on any day.
However, Dallas homeowners can only water with hose-end sprinklers or automatic sprinkler systems twice per week from April 1 to Oct. 31. No watering may take place between 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. or on Mondays, Tuesdays, or Fridays.
Summer is the perfect time for lazy days. The days are sunny and long, and backyard barbecues and pool parties are in full swing. Reclaim your weekends and sanity by installing low-maintenance landscaping and following our summer lawn care tips.
\n\n\n\nInstead of breaking a sweat in the heat, consider letting Wikilawn hook you up with a local landscaping company that can handle all of your lawn care needs so you can get back to your Longhorns or Aggies.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"A Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Dallas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5056461731493098,"src":"/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/1789c/Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/107df/Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/293e9/Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/f2cbb/Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/1789c/Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/c26c2/Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/1dd6e/Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/67b76/Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/8df11/Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/98a65/Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/1dd6e/Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/ca471e4c16d278ed4e886780f05cc01f/3cc96/Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"A Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Dallas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Prep your lawn for the summer heat with this guide to summer lawn care in Dallas, TX."}}},{"node":{"id":"64429b1f-2f8a-53b3-a1e0-32ebab2dd29c","slug":"lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"The amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do. The city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits […]
\n","content":"\nThe amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do.
\n\n\n\nThe city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits lawn watering between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. each day. This ban exists because of a state requirement for cities to enact a water supply plan. For the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to approve the plan, cities have to adopt several conservation methods. You’ll find similar restrictions in other metro area municipalities.
\n\n\n\nThe suburb of Blaine has the same daytime sprinkling ban in effect from May 15 to Sept. 15. Blaine’s lawn watering restrictions go one step further. People with addresses ending in an odd number can only water on odd-numbered days. Those with addresses ending in an even number only get to water on even-numbered days. This restriction is in place year-round.
\n\n\n\nSo how can Minneapolis and St. Paul get away with no lawn watering restrictions? It’s because most of their water comes from the Mississippi River. The suburbs get their water from underground aquifers which could run dry. According to the Water Treatment and Distribution Services (WTDS), Minneapolis pumps 21 billion gallons of water from the river each year. To make it drinkable, WTDS filters soften and disinfect the water. Fun fact: Minneapolis has more than 1,000 miles of underground water mains. That’s enough to stretch from Minneapolis to Denver.
\n\n\n\nSt. Paul Regional Water Services provides 40 million gallons of water to more than 425,000 customers a day. The city uses similar procedures as Minneapolis to make the water safe for drinking.
\n\n\n\nBoth Minneapolis and St. Paul ask customers to conserve water, even though lawn watering restrictions aren’t in place. Both cities recommend that you water lawns in the morning or evening and not at all when it’s windy. Only water your lawn when it needs it instead of using a fixed schedule and adjust your sprinklers to avoid the sidewalks. Finally, aerate your lawn to allow more water to soak in, and let the grass grow taller during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check with your city or county government for any lawn watering restrictions in your neighborhood. Penalties vary for violating the restrictions in suburban areas. If you live in the Twin Cities proper, join your suburban neighbors by watering smart this summer.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about pest control and prevention in your lawn? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
Choosing these native plants for a Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work.
\n","content":"\nCreating a landscape that’s both easy to care for as well as beautiful is easy in North Texas. Plenty of plants call the Fort Worth area home, and you’ll find them in both natural areas as well as cultivated gardens. Choosing native plants for Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work. Check out these native plants for Fort Worth that will flourish in your backyard.
\n\n\n\nAny way you pronounce it (and Texans pronounce it with a soft “ahn” at the end), the pecan tree is the state tree of Texas. This native tree features beautiful green foliage and plenty of those delicious nuts. Pecan trees can grow up to 100 feet tall, and live to be quite old. This member of the hickory family is a staple in the area and would make a great addition to any North Texas home. It can spread wider than other native trees, so make sure that you have enough room to house this beauty for years to come.
\n\n\n\n![\"Hummingbird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/hummingbird-bush-1024x713.jpeg\")
Also known as the Mexican flame, the hummingbird bush is a Texas native and a magnet for pollinators. This bush features bright red blooms that accentuate any Fort Worth garden. The long tubular flower allows hummingbirds to reach the nectar. Plant the hummingbird bush in drier parts of the garden or along rocky slopes. Placing this beautiful bush near a window or outdoor living space will create up close and personal viewings of the many hummingbirds that will flock to this plant.
\n\n\n\nThere are many different kinds of coneflowers, or echinacea, available in local garden centers all around the Fort Worth area. You’ll find different leaf structures, but all include a beautiful seed head that points towards the sky. Coneflowers are quite popular, for their robust stance against heat and drought. These lovely blooms will continue on for months and attract a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies and bees. Plant coneflowers along a walkway or in a cluster to add both color and vibrancy to the yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrIgK5EFEKyKcFZdbxDFjSTwoAoMmf76p0dPAK_O7x6AeDydSobidtNx6JkZ91vfAld3I1j7WRSX6ZML-8J7IUNMAAV9bTxAHY5sibhgzTDH35XuhIn18LN1Pzgq7gyH-cG_nVn7\")
There is nothing quite like the stunning color of the purple berries that form on the American beautyberry bush. This native plant will grow to around 5 feet tall in favorable soil conditions. The striking clusters of bright purple berries form along the branches of the plant. The berries attract a wide variety of birds. Unfortunately, deer like to eat its large oval-shaped leaves. We recommend planting this native in a spot where you can enjoy the beautiful colors as well as the birds that will flock to it.
\n\n\n\nMany different species of yucca are native to the Fort Worth area. You’ll find Yucca plants all over in various shades and styles. This hardy plant loves hot Texas weather and is extremely drought tolerant. It can grow in a variety of soil conditions and requires little to no maintenance once established. Mix yucca in with other native plants in your landscape or in a xeriscaped area that features drought-resistant plants.
\n\n\n\nUsing native plants in your landscape will add natural beauty and keep you from having to sweat it out in the yard maintaining the garden. Consider adding any or all of these native plants to your Fort Worth garden this year.
Have more questions about lawn mowing and maintenance in Fort Worth? We got you covered! Go to our Fort Worth, TX lawn care page.
\n","title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/107df/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/293e9/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/f2cbb/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 960w","srcWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/67b76/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/8df11/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/98a65/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 960w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"How does your garden grow? If you've planted native plants, it flourishes without much work or water. Check out our list of native plants for Fort Worth."}}},{"node":{"id":"dca03c19-33c7-5ac8-8b1e-c876b1ebcd1e","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-cleveland","path":"/lawn-care/spring-lawn-care-tips-cleveland/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7ba0d0fa-46fc-5a18-a83f-513673ed896c","name":"Cleveland","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/cleveland/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"March 31st, 2023","excerpt":"Spring doesn’t always feel like spring in Cleveland, where temperatures can vary wildly and you might have to deal with the fluffy white stuff as late as April. But if you want a great lawn this summer and deep into the fall, this is the time to put the work in. Here are our 13 […]
\n","content":"\nSpring doesn’t always feel like spring in Cleveland, where temperatures can vary wildly and you might have to deal with the fluffy white stuff as late as April.
\n\n\n\nBut if you want a great lawn this summer and deep into the fall, this is the time to put the work in. Here are our 13 tips to turn your Cleveland lawn into a mini heaven.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Rake debris, remove dead plants, and clear fallen branches to help your lawn breathe more effectively. Removing debris also removes the barriers that block your grass from getting the nutrients it needs. Raking can split your grass blades, promoting straight grass growth.
\n\n\n\nAnd let’s face it, a yard without debris looks better any day. It also gives you a blank canvas for mowing, fertilizing, and performing other lawn activities.
\n\n\n\nNote: It’s nearly impossible to avoid thatch altogether as it keeps building up. Thatch less than an inch in thickness isn’t an issue and can actually be beneficial to your lawn as it provides nutrients for grass growth, protects the grass from damage, and helps preserve moisture in the soil.
\n\n\n\nIf there’s too much thatch on your lawn and raking doesn’t seem to help, dethatching is the solution.
\n\n\n\nAlright, but what’s thatch? Thatch is the grass clippings and leaves that accumulate in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAs mentioned above, thatch less an inch in thickness can be good for your lawn. But anything more than that can be too much because excessive thatch can attract pests, cause diseases, and deprive your grass of nutrients.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is necessary before aerating it. But even if your yard doesn’t need aerating, we recommend you dethatch it at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat’s the best time to dethatch lawns
\n\n\n\nYou should dethatch your lawn when the grass is actively growing. The best time to dethatch cool-season grass is from late summer to early fall. If you have warm-season grass, you can dethatch it between late spring and early summer.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland struggle with diseased lawns. Fungus loves Cleveland’s humid climate, which is why the city ranks No. 3 among the worst U.S. cities for weeds and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe beginning of spring is the best time for fungi to attack your lawn, so, take these precautionary steps to eliminate fungi at their source.
\n\n\n\nHere are the common Cleveland lawn diseases you should be aware of.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nPythium blight appears as small circular patches about a foot in diameter. The infected grasses show up as cottony white material. They appear clearly when the grass is wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium blight
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn, then treat it with a fungicide that includes mefenoxam or propamocarb.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nBrown patch appears as circular brownish-yellow patches between a few inches and several feet in diameter. Tall fescue grasses are more susceptible to brown patch than other grasses.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch
\n\n\n\nYou can use a fungicide that includes PCNB, propiconazole, triadimefon, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl as one of its active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nRed thread appears as pinkish-red patches that can be anywhere between two inches and two feet in diameter. They won’t usually kill your grass but can increase the susceptibility of your lawn to other diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat red thread
\n\n\n\nApply nitrogen fertilizer, water the grass, and mow your lawn. You may also apply fungicides, but they won’t be effective if you don’t maintain your yard correctly, as the disease will most likely return.
\n\n\n\nWell, you have treated lawn diseases and removed debris from your lawn. That’s great! But, if your grass still looks thin and has unattractive patches, you may have to overseed your yard.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is the process of spreading grass seeds over your existing lawn to improve grass density and fill in the patches. You should overseed your yard after aerating or dethatching it as it increases the access to soil.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland prefer cool-season grasses because of the climate, and early fall is the best time to plant cool-season grass seeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen you plant grass seeds in early fall, they get about three months to grow before winter starts. When spring kicks in, the soil temperature increases, thus accelerating the growth of grass. Before summer, the grass will have strongly established its roots to handle the stress.
\n\n\n\nLast but not least, ensure the newly planted grass seeds get sufficient water and fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: If only a few bare patches are in your yard, it may be because of a pest. So, before you overseed, ensure that a lawn pest isn’t causing the issue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Test-your-Soil.jpg\")
You should test your soil to know whether it contains the essential nutrients for your grass. You may test the soil yourself using a DIY kit or send it to the local soil testing laboratories.
\n\n\n\nMany Cleveland homeowners tend to test their soil before fertilizing their lawns. It’s a good practice to test your soil at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nDepending on the soil test result, add amendments such as potassium, magnesium, calcium, or phosphorus to your soil. Also, if you plan to fertilize, wait for at least four to five weeks so the fertilizer and amendments won’t negatively interact with each other.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn as your grass turns green and starts growing. This is typically in early spring (between March and April). You should avoid fertilizing too early, especially if you have cool-season grass, as it can promote rapid growth, which is bad for your yard.
\n\n\n\nYour soil test will tell you what kind of slow-release fertilizer to purchase. Generally, most fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in different percentages, as they are essential nutrients for plant growth.
\n\n\n\nFast-release fertilizers can make your grass grow quicker, but they can damage it. Sometimes, they can even burn it. Also, don’t spread fertilizers by hand. Instead, use a spreader to apply them evenly.
\n\n\n\nThe general recommendation is to fertilize your yard four times a year with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Here’s how to calculate how many pounds of fertilizer your lawn needs.
\n\n\n\nThis formula may sound complex, but it’s easy when you apply it practically. Make sure not to overfertilize your lawn, as it can damage the grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Equipment.jpg\")
Winter has come to an end. Spring has begun. Now it’s time to get your lawn mower and other equipment ready to bring your yard back into shape.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a checklist to bring your lawn mower back to form.
\n\n\n\nFollow these steps to sharpen your lawn mower blade.
\n\n\n\nDon’t forget to check if your hedge trimmer blades are sharp enough and weed eater has enough line.
\n\n\n\nTurn on your lawn mower and start mowing your lawn as soon as you notice your grass has hit 2 inches of height.
\n\n\n\nThe mowing height depends on your grass type. Here’s the recommended mowing height for common grasses in Cleveland.
\n\n\n\n| Grass type | Recommended height |
| Fine fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 1 ½ – 2 ½ inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 ½ – 3 inches |
Follow these tips for a perfect mow.
\n\n\n\nToo much or too little water can both harm your lawn. Overwatering can make your yard susceptible to pests and disease. It can also cause shallow root growth and excessive thatch buildup.
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering will cause your lawn to lose its color. If your grass is turning gray and footprints linger because the grass doesn’t bounce back quickly, you should water.
\n\n\n\nCleveland lawns generally require about two inches of water each week. However, the exact amount depends on the type of grass. Don’t forget to consider the rainfall for that week when watering.
\n\n\n\nFor the best efficiency, water your lawn in the morning before 9 a.m. If you water your yard at night, the extra water will remain in the soil, making your grass more susceptible to disease.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend you set up an automated irrigation system to make sure your lawn gets the right amount of water at the correct time.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the season when weeds start growing. It’s essential that you get rid of them to keep your lawn in good shape.
\n\n\n\nRemember the good old days when you have to pull the weeds with your hands? It’s a fun experience, but it can be a pain when there are too many weeds. Now, you don’t have to worry about removing the weeds yourself, thanks to pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nApply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds before they germinate. Early spring (around April) is the best time to apply pre-emergents to your Cleveland lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to overseed your lawn after applying pre-emergents, wait for at least four months, as they prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nIf you have already started to notice weeds on your lawn, it may be too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. In this case, go for post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Pests-in-Lawn-1.jpg\")
Prevention is better than cure. You can keep pests away from your lawn by correctly watering the grass, fertilizing, and dethatching.
\n\n\n\nBut! It’s practically impossible to avoid pests altogether. These pesky pests will somehow make their way into your yard. Spring is usually the time when lawn pests reproduce. Eliminate them before they get time to lay and fertilize their eggs.
\n\n\n\nHere are the pests common to Cleveland lawns.
\n\n\n\nSome of these pests only damage your lawn. But some can attack humans too. So, if you spot these pesky creatures in your yard, take immediate action.
\n\n\n\nUse pesticides that target the specific pest in your yard. Avoid catch-all pesticides as they are less effective and can harm beneficial insects and plants.
\n\n\n\nIt’s usually better to seek the help of a professional to get rid of pests, as some can be very aggressive and harmful to humans.
\n\n\n\nAeration is the process of perforating your soil with holes to allow air, water, and other nutrients to reach the roots easily. Generally, we recommend you aerate your lawn once a year.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to aerate the grass is when it grows. As most homeowners in Cleveland have cool-season grass, early spring can be the best time to aerate your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Aerate your lawn a day after you water your grass. It’s easier to aerate when the soil is moist.
\n\n\n\nA lawn without clean gutters isn’t perfect. So, don’t neglect cleaning your gutters. Here’s why:
\n\n\n\nSpring is the time of the year when your lawn needs your care again. Get your yard back to shape to enjoy the weekends with your family in your home.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re on a busy work schedule and don’t want to spend your weekends doing lawn chores, don’t worry. Wikilawn Cleveland lawn care experts can help you with everything needed to make your lawn lush and beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxfuel
\n","title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5056461731493098,"src":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/107df/Lawn-Care.jpg 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/293e9/Lawn-Care.jpg 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/f2cbb/Lawn-Care.jpg 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/c26c2/Lawn-Care.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/67b76/Lawn-Care.webp 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/8df11/Lawn-Care.webp 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/98a65/Lawn-Care.webp 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/3cc96/Lawn-Care.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When spring starts, your lawn needs your help again. Follow these tips to make your yard the place you desire the most."}}},{"node":{"id":"9d565c7d-5be4-57ac-84af-5504fb70cd06","slug":"best-native-plants-eastern-washington","path":"/lawn-care/eastern-washington/best-native-plants-eastern-washington/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Austin Geiger is an avid reader and writer. He has loved to read and write from a young age, and does both daily. His favorite subjects are fantasy and comedy, and he despises run-on sentences.","name":"Austin Geiger","id":"69bc552e-2c03-5c38-acc7-562e86f2a201","path":"/author/austin-geiger/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5baab15ab5786cfd4d2372bb580f441c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"df62bd8e-2729-5a1b-a2d2-faec65bfdc9a","name":"Eastern Washington","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/eastern-washington/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 9th, 2023","excerpt":"Native plants are a vital component of the local ecosystem. In your yard, they’re also beautiful low-maintenance blooms that can liven up your outdoor space. Wild areas like Lyons Ferry are full of plants that could look wonderful in your yard or garden, but it can be tough to pick the right ones. Here are […]
\n","content":"\nNative plants are a vital component of the local ecosystem. In your yard, they’re also beautiful low-maintenance blooms that can liven up your outdoor space. Wild areas like Lyons Ferry are full of plants that could look wonderful in your yard or garden, but it can be tough to pick the right ones. Here are some of the best native plants for Eastern Washington to help you make an informed decision.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll discuss:
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_5039631314_ddce7f9f0e_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Peter O’Connor aka anemoneprojectors / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe common yarrow is a perennial wildflower that’s found throughout the United States. It prefers full sun and tolerates any soil type, and is a low-maintenance drought tolerant plant that doesn’t need a lot of water. It grows large clusters of tiny white flowers that are beloved by many pollinators, making it a great choice for a pollinator garden.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to plant yarrow, the best place for it may be in a container. It tends to spread if left to its own devices, so keeping it from taking over your garden beds is a priority. It’s also poisonous, so keeping it in a container will let you put it out of reach of children and pets.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained, all soil types
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Pine
\n\n\n\nBloom Timet: Late spring, summer
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Toxic to cats, dogs, and horses if ingested; for humans, may cause skin irritation or increase photosensitivity if touched
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Amelancheir_alnifolia_-_Saskatoon_serviceberry_-_Flickr_-_Matt_Lavin-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Levin / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nSaskatoon Serviceberry is a deciduous shrub native to Eastern Washington, one that can grow up to 15 feet tall. It can handle full or partial sun, likes clay or loam soils, is low-maintenance and drought tolerant, and has reasonable water needs. Its white flowers give way to edible berries in the spring and the plant attracts many pollinators such as bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nThere are a few different ways you can use serviceberry in your landscape. Its variable size means that, depending on the height of the individual plant, it can be an accent plant or a border hedge. Since their roots aren’t invasive, they can be placed closer to your house than most to be used as a foundation plant or privacy screen.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained acidic or neutral soil with clay or loamy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFragrance: None
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Mid spring to winter
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 3 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: The seeds inside its fruit contain compounds that are toxic to dogs; the fruit itself and the plant it grows from are not harmful to humans or animals
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/douglas-gfb632a4a1_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDouglas Fir is an evergreen conifer tree native to Eastern Washington. This mighty specimen can grow up to 80 feet tall on the high end, and at 40 feet, even the shorter specimens can tower over your yard. This tree can handle full or partial sun and can grow in a variety of different soil types. It’s low-maintenance and doesn’t require too much water, making it ideal for a low-maintenance landscape.
\n\n\n\nDue to Douglas fir’s immense height, it tends to dominate any landscape it’s planted in, so your options are limited in regards to where and how you use it. If you don’t want it to be a centerpiece, the best place for it is close to the edge of your yard, where it can provide shade and shelter without taking over your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained acidic or neutral soil with a clay, loamy, or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Pine
\n\n\n\nSeason of Interest: Year-round
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 40 to 80 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Pine nuts and pollen may set off allergies
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Artemisia_tridentata_sagebrush_bush-1024x744.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dcrjsr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nSagebrush is an evergreen shrub native to the Eastern Washington area. It’s a low-maintenance and drought tolerant plant that likes full sun, has minimal water needs, and prefers either loamy or sandy soil. Sagebrush has bright green foliage and stems full of flowers in different colors such as yellow or purple. It makes for a great ground cover for a landscape or can be used as a screening or accent plant.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained soil with a loamy or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Spicy, bitter
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Early spring
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 3 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Skin contact can cause dermatitis
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/8883226694_90d9114e5d_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWild Mock Orange, also known by the common name Lewis’ Mock Orange, is a deciduous shrub native to Eastern Washington. It’s a hardy low-maintenance and drought tolerant plant that can handle full or partial sun, grows in a variety of soil types, and has minimal water needs. It has beautiful white flowers that resemble orange blossoms and attract many pollinators, such as butterflies.
\n\n\n\nMock Orange is a versatile plant that can be used in many different ways in your landscape. You can plant them in containers or in the yard itself as an accent or foundation plant, or use it as shrubbery. It’s a great choice for a pollinator garden and has good resistance to pests.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained soil with a chalk, loamy, or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Orange, pineapple
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Late spring to early summer
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 5 to 12 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Toxic to cats
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Many](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Phlox_speciosa_1874.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Walter Seigmund / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nShowy phlox is a native Eastern Washington perennial wildflower. It has dark green leaves and gorgeous purple flowers with heart-shaped petals and, like many phlox, attracts pollinators of all sorts. This makes it a great choice for a pollinator garden. Even if you don’t have one, showy phlox goes great in flower beds or containers.
\n\n\n\nWhile showy phlox is a low-maintenance plant that doesn’t require a lot of water, it is a bit picky with its soil and sun. It likes only partial sunlight with either clay or sandy soil.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained acidic or neutral soil with a clay or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Three](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/25383546147_877523e7f5_c-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Morefield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWestern aster is a native Eastern Washington perennial wildflower, one that’s low-maintenance and drought tolerant, has low water needs, can handle either full or partial sun, and tolerates all soil types. It has lovely purple flowers with bright yellow centers that attract many pollinators.
\n\n\n\nWestern aster are an especially good choice for a pollinator garden since their late blooming time means they provide pollen and nectar when many other plants have closed up shop. But they’ll still look fantastic in your outdoor space’s flower beds or containers regardless of what kind of garden you have.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist, acidic to neutral soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Balsam
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Mid spring to mid autumn
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 1 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/28515122621_4d0c2f762a_k-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nVelvet lupine is a perennial wildflower native to Eastern Washington. It’s a low-maintenance drought tolerant plant with minimal water needs that likes full sun and clay or sandy soil. This plant grows a raceme of purple flowers that fade to brown shortly before producing seeds. This lupine not only attracts a multitude of pollinators, but it also helps pull nitrogen from the air and into the soil.
\n\n\n\nVelvet lupine isn’t quite suited for flower beds, but it can be planted in containers and makes a good accent plant. If you do plant it, keep in mind that it is toxic to both humans and animals. Take the proper precautions to ensure both your safety and that of others.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist but well-drained soil with a clay or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Early summer
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Toxic to humans, pets, and livestock
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Arctostaphylos-uva-ursi-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sten Porse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nRed bearberry is an evergreen shrub native to Eastern Washington. It’s a hardy low-maintenance plant that’s very drought tolerant, doesn’t need a lot of water, can handle full or partial sunlight, and likes loamy or sandy soil. It grows red berries that are mealy but edible, though the plant may have adverse effects when consumed in large quantities.
\n\n\n\nRed bearberry grows beautiful red flowers in mid spring that attract many pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, which makes it a great choice for a pollinator garden. The best way to use it in your landscaping is likely to plant it in containers or use it as an accent plant.
\n\n\n\nPlant Type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 6
\n\n\n\nSun: Full to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained acidic soil with a loamy or sandy composition
\n\n\n\nDuration: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Autumn leaves, pine
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Mid spring
\n\n\n\nWater Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 6 inches to 1 foot
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Potentially harmful in large quantities
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nWhen trying to choose native plants for your landscape in Eastern Washington, take a look at the environmental conditions it has to offer. How much sunlight do you get? What kind of soil do you have, i.e., what is its pH balance and composition? If you don’t know these things, find out and choose from among plants that thrive with them.
\n\n\n\nAnother good criterion is Eastern Washington’s USDA Hardiness Zone. The hardiness zones are the USDA’s method of labeling which areas experience which average minimum temperatures. Eastern Washington is in zone 6a, which means that its average minimum temperature is negative 5 to negative 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Every plant on this list can handle zone 6a.
\n\n\n\nAll of the plants on this list are native to the northern area of Eastern Washington, though Western aster is more scarce than the rest.
\n\n\n\nJust like Northeast Washington, every plant on this list is native to Southeast Washington, and Western Aster is rarer than the rest.
\n\n\n\nWestern Washington’s native plants include:
\n\n\n\nIf you want to keep some toxic plants in your outdoor space, it should be perfectly safe to do so as long as you take the proper precautions. Sequestering them from the rest, clearly marking them, and not allowing pets or small children in your garden if you have them are just a few of the ways you can keep yourselves and others safe with poisonous plants in your landscape.
\n\n\n\nIf you want plants that are poisonous, but still don’t feel comfortable with the risk despite safeguards, that’s fine. You should be able to find several plants that look similar but are perfectly harmless to use as a substitute for the toxic varieties you want.
\n\n\n\nIf your landscape is ill-suited to your favorite native plants, you’re not without options. You can try to change things in your landscape within reason to suit it better, such as removing some branches from trees that are providing shade. If the soil is the issue, you can also keep the plant in a container instead of in a garden bed.
\n\n\n\nIf you need ideas for new native plants to put in your landscape in Eastern Washington, there’s no better place to look than its natural spaces. Take a walk through areas like Ancient Lakes Trail and take pictures of some native plants that you’d like in your backyard. However, to ensure you’re obtaining your native plants safely and ethically, never take them straight from the wild.
\n\n\n\nWhen shopping for new native plants, look for native plant nurseries endorsed by the Washington Native Plant Society.
\n\n\n\nIf you need more general help with lawn care, landscaping, or other outdoor services, contact a Washington lawn care pro near you. We have trusted lawn care pros in Spokane and other cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Western aster / Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"9 Best Native Plants for Eastern Washington","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/1789c/western-aster.jpg","srcSet":"/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/107df/western-aster.jpg 320w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/293e9/western-aster.jpg 500w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/f2cbb/western-aster.jpg 800w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/1789c/western-aster.jpg 960w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/c26c2/western-aster.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/1dd6e/western-aster.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/67b76/western-aster.webp 320w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/8df11/western-aster.webp 500w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/98a65/western-aster.webp 800w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/1dd6e/western-aster.webp 960w,\n/static/1bbe545daf298bcc4678d55e8e664d21/3cc96/western-aster.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Best Native Plants for Eastern Washington | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Native plants are an important part of your local environment. Read here to find good native blooms for Eastern Washington state."}}},{"node":{"id":"52ef8ca4-bcc0-593a-8c1a-729125d132f0","slug":"get-rid-of-grub-worms-in-lawns","path":"/pests-and-diseases/get-rid-of-grub-worms-in-lawns/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"84a346a7-9ce4-5d70-a95f-abcea3779ced","name":"Pests and Diseases","count":10,"path":"/category/pests-and-diseases/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Lawn grubs are a part of the ecosystem. And, of course, we want to preserve the ecosystem. But too much of anything can be a bad thing. Grub worms become a problem when there is a large grub population. They eat grass roots, weakening the bond between the grass and roots and ultimately killing the […]
\n","content":"\nLawn grubs are a part of the ecosystem. And, of course, we want to preserve the ecosystem. But too much of anything can be a bad thing. Grub worms become a problem when there is a large grub population. They eat grass roots, weakening the bond between the grass and roots and ultimately killing the grass. This article tells you how to get rid of grubs in your lawn using natural methods and conventional chemicals.
\n\n\nGrubs are the larvae of beetles like June bugs, Japanese beetles, and June beetles. After the beetles lay eggs, they hatch into larvae that feed on grass roots and need moisture to survive. They are slimy-looking, squishy, and C-shaped, with legs close to their brown heads.
\n\n\n![\"Japanese](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/aa92a5f5-8ab5-406e-a721-72ac486709fc.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nThe eggs hatch, and the white grubs become active in the spring and summer. In the fall, they feed and tunnel further into the soil for protection against upcoming winter weather.
\n\n\n\nGrubs do more than make your grass look unhealthy. By weakening the bond between the grass and grass roots, grubs cause your grass to become unstable. When pulled, patches of grass come up easily and roll up like a carpet. Grass will quickly die once the roots are severed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are a few telltale signs of lawn grubs, like increased animal activity, as critters like skunks and raccoons flock to your yard to feed on the grub worms.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs dig into grass roots and cause dead patches. Multiple dead patches that do not improve can be a sign of a grub infestation. Although brown patches can be a sign of lawn disease or drought, they are also a major indicator that grub control may be needed if the grass pulls up easily. Remember, patches of grass will roll up like carpet if there is grub damage.
\n\n\n\nBefore you start the process to get rid of grubs, test your yard to make sure grubs are the problem:
\n\n\n\n— In the suspected area, dig up 1 square foot that is about 3 inches deep.
— If you see 5 or fewer grubs, your lawn is normal. Treatment is unnecessary.
— Unhealthy grass will require grub control if there are five to 10 grubs in a single square foot.
— If you see more than 10 grubs, your infestation qualifies as severe, and you may need professional help to treat it.
You can kill grubs without injuring beneficial insects by using organic methods. Natural treatment can take several years, but you, your loved ones, and the environment will be safer for it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"beneficial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/85f15946-4a9d-4367-824e-fec8e65433b8.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nThese microscopic worms are natural parasites that kill grubs by releasing bacteria. They naturally live in the soil. Homeowners can purchase them at retailers like Walmart and even online from Amazon. Use them soon after purchase, before they die. Water the grass before and after you release the beneficial nematodes into the lawn. The best time to apply the worms is in the afternoon.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMilky spore comes in powder form and can be sprinkled on the lawn. It is a bacterial disease that only kills Japanese beetle grubs. It can take many years for this bacterium to get rid of grubs.
\n\n\n\nTypically, milky spore can be purchased at the same locations as beneficial nematodes. You can find them online at Home Depot and Amazon.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHomeowners can control grubs with a DIY neem oil solution. Neem oil naturally contains ingredients that act as pesticides, like Azadirachtin.
\n\n\n\nRecipe and Directions. Mix 1 teaspoon of pure Castile soap with 1 gallon of warm water. Add 2 tablespoons of raw 100% cold-pressed neem oil. Place the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray your lawn weekly until the grubs are gone, or the population is reduced to a normal level. Apply at dawn or dusk to keep from harming beneficial insects.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"bird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/d5635a6c-233a-43ad-9848-d4f3f21986db.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anmol Dash / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrubs are tasty little treats for birds like bluejays and robins. Put out birdhouses, birdbaths, and food for birds to attract them to your yard. They will eat your grub problem away while you sit back and watch.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re in an area where you experience droughts in the summer, take advantage of it. Dry out the soil even more by not watering your grass for three to four weeks. Since beetle eggs need moisture to live, drought will act as a natural pesticide and kill the eggs. The dry soil will decrease the subsequent year’s grub population.
\n\n\n\nSome grass types are more drought-tolerant than others, but most healthy lawns will green up when you start re-quenching the grass’s thirst.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nConventional grub control products, like other conventional lawn care agents such as herbicides and insecticides, come with risks to humans, pets, and the environment. Be sure to read product labels and follow the instructions, taking any necessary safety precautions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCuratives eliminate larvae before they become pupae. They do not kill beetles when they are in their pupae stage, which is after they are larvae but before they become adult beetles. Products that have the ingredients carbaryl or trichlorfon are effective curative products for grubs.
\n\n\n\nCarbaryl kills grubs in about 10 to 14 days. It is more effective at eliminating certain types of grubs, like European chafer grubs, than trichlorfon. Beneficial insects, including bees, are also harmed by carbaryl.
\n\n\n\nTrichlorfon starts to kill grubs in about one to five days.
\n\n\n\nMow the lawn immediately before applying these chemicals to protect bees. Carbaryl and trichlorfon are toxic to these crucial pollinators. They can be harmed if they visit flowering weeds after the lawn is sprayed. Mowing removes the flowers. After the application of curative products, water the lawn with at least 0.5 inches of water.
\n\n\n\nTreat the grass in the early spring or fall with curative killers since this is when grubs are most vulnerable to pesticides. Do not apply curative treatments after mid-May because grubs are no longer feeding. Using carbaryl or trichlorfon in September will kill 20 – 80% of grubs. They will kill 20 – 55% when used in late October.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you already have a grub problem, preventative pesticides will not work. Preventative products are for homeowners who have had past grub problems or who have noticed that their neighbor probably has grubs. These pesticides will decrease your chances of a grub infestation and stop white grubs from invading in the future.
\n\n\n\nChoose preventative pesticides with the chemicals halofenozide or imidacloprid. Imidacloprid and clothianidin are effective on young grubs like European chafers and will kill them as they hatch.
\n\n\n\nPreventative chemicals are more effective at decreasing the grub population than curative methods. Products with these active ingredients can be used in late summer, fall, and early spring. These chemicals kill 75 – 100% of grubs when applied in early summer, in June or July. Be sure to irrigate immediately after application with 0.5 inches of water to get the optimal killing potential.
\n\n\n\nJust as you would with curative agents, mow the lawn immediately preceding the application of preventative pesticides to protect beneficial insects and to ensure the product reaches the grubs in the soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: silver bullet66 / Pixabay / License
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn healthy will help prevent grubs from taking over and injuring your yard. Thriving turfgrass that is watered regularly (but not overwatered) can withstand five or more grubs per square foot without damage. You want to maintain your grass in a way that facilitates a deeper root system. These lawn care practices will establish the healthy lawn needed to prevent lawn grubs:
\n\n\n\nAre there insecticides that do not work on grubs?
\n\n\n\nYes. The chemicals listed below will not work on grubs unless they are combined with preventative chemicals that are effective for grub control. Do not use products that contain only these chemicals:
\n\n\n\n— Bifenthrin
— Gamma-cyhalothrin
— Lambda-cyhalothrin
— Deltamethrin
— Permethrin
— Cyfluthrin
When is it safe for children and pets to return to the grass after grub control treatment?
\n\n\n\nInsecticides and herbicides, in general, are harmful to humans, especially children, and pets. Wait until after you have watered the grass, and it has completely dried before allowing humans or pets into the affected area.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any active ingredients safe for bees?
\n\n\n\nThe chemical chlorantraniliprole is safe for bees. This active ingredient can be found in some preventive conventional grub control products.
\n\n\n\nUnlike other preventives, it can be used on the lawn any time in the spring after green-up. It is not as effective as other preventive agents, but it will decrease grubs by 65 – 80%. You can apply it between early April and mid-July, but applying it before June ensures maximum killing potential.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo grubs go away without treatment?
\n\n\n\nNo, they do not. They not only spread quickly, but they also cause both aesthetic damage and damage to grass root systems. Test for grubs or call a professional if you have signs, and start treatment immediately.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow do you apply conventional curative and preventive grub control products?
\n\n\n\nBoth of these types of products come as liquid and dry granules. Read labels and follow application directions. Liquid pesticides can be applied with a hose spray bottle or a hose sprayer. Granules can be applied with a fertilizer spreader. Some granules need to be mixed with water and sprayed. Some grub control products come in attach-to-hose bottles where the water is automatically mixed upon application.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou have several options to manage a lawn grub infestation. Fortunately, a few grubs do not indicate a problem. A healthy lawn may contain about five grubs per square foot and not have any damage. Always do a test before starting treatment. For the most accurate analysis, call a lawn pest control professional.
WikiLawn can connect you to qualified lawn care pros in your area for all your lawn care needs, including grub detection and treatment.
Main Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.492537313432836,"src":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1789c/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/107df/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/293e9/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/f2cbb/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1789c/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/c26c2/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1dd6e/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/67b76/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/8df11/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/98a65/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/1dd6e/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7b4584f3d7073b53e65e07e0004481d5/3cc96/86d21984-83b9-45a1-baa5-3f965b05b661-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn about natural living organisms that kill grubs, DIY solutions, and conventional chemicals that get rid of grubs from your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"7d2e7680-104e-527f-87e0-074b1de19b72","slug":"how-to-use-weed-and-feed","path":"/blog/how-to-use-weed-and-feed/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"You cannot create an attractive and healthy lawn just by eliminating weeds. It is also essential to feed your grass the necessary nutrients. Weed and feed products allow you to check both these lawn care tasks off your list in one go. This article will explore how to use weed and feed for your lawn. […]
\n","content":"\nYou cannot create an attractive and healthy lawn just by eliminating weeds. It is also essential to feed your grass the necessary nutrients. Weed and feed products allow you to check both these lawn care tasks off your list in one go. This article will explore how to use weed and feed for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThese products are designed not only to control weeds but also to foster healthy, thriving, green grass. In addition to how to use weed and feed, this article also discusses what weed and feed is, how it works, and how it can be a friend or foe.
\n\n\nIt is best to apply weed and feed when the temperature is between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Most areas of the country experience these temperatures in late spring and early fall.
\n\n\n\nIt is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during this time of year. Spring and fall are also the best times to fertilize your lawn, depending on your grass type – late spring for warm-season grasses, fall for cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nProducts with nitrogen should not be used until the soil temperature at a depth of 4 inches is consistently 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If the product has potassium instead of nitrogen, it can be applied during the end of winter or early spring.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that grass should be fertilized at specific times and intervals to remain healthy. Weed killers must also be applied at specific times of year to be effective. The proper timing for fertilizer and weed control doesn’t always overlap, which is one reason why weed and feed can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDo not apply weed and feed more than twice annually, and do not use the products in extreme temperatures, hot spells, droughts, or on windy days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUsing weed and feed takes pre-planning to make sure the product works. Here are some things you can do before applying weed and feed to ensure the best possible results:
\n\n\n\n— Select a day to apply weed and feed when it is not forecasted to rain for about a week. Water will wash away the product before it can take effect.
— For new lawns recently seeded, do not apply weed and feed until the grass has grown enough that you’ve had to mow it twice.
— About two days before you apply weed and feed, mow your grass to a normal height. This will help the weed and feed absorb evenly into your lawn.
— Watering your grass helps granules adhere to the weeds. But do not water it too much, as it will have an adverse effect. The grass should be slightly damp when you apply the product.
![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nMake sure you use the proper tools to apply weed and feed and wear protective clothing and accessories. You do not want to be exposed to these toxic chemicals any more than necessary.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\n— Sprayer for liquid weed and feed
— Drop-type spreader or rotary spreader for granules
Steps to apply weed and feed:
\n\n\n\n— For liquid weed and feed, mix and spray as per the product label’s directions.
— For granules, follow the product label’s instructions for adjusting the spreader settings.
— Open the spreader as per the product’s directions.
— Add the weed and feed in the amount indicated by the package instructions.
— If you are applying near plants you do not wish to kill, place plastic over them or use a drop spreader to protect the vegetation.
— Start at the edge of your lawn and go back and forth in parallel lines, spraying or spreading the weed and feed product consistently as you go. Move similarly to how you would if you were mowing, but overlap yourself slightly. This ensures every area is covered.
— Do not water or mow your lawn after applying weed and feed. Follow the product’s instructions for when to do so for granules and liquid products. If your product has no instructions, see our article on when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed.
![\"caution](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/224f4055-1667-42b4-b7d2-082a567c5f63-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ArtBoyMB / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products contain a combination of dangerous chemicals, like MCPP, 2,4-D, and dicamba. Some of these have been linked to chronic toxicity and cancer. Keep children and pets out of the treated area for as long as possible.
\n\n\n\nWait until after a heavy downpour before allowing them back in the yard. If you used a granular product, make sure you can no longer see the granules.
\n\n\n\nIf you would rather use a product that doesn’t put your loved ones at risk, see our list of pet-safe weed killers, which are safe to use around children, too.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Crabgrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Large-crabgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHere are some reasons your weed and feed application may not have worked:
\n\n\n\n— These products only work on broadleaf weeds and not grassy weeds like crabgrass. To treat crabgrass, you’ll need a product with a specific crabgrass preventer. Read the label to identify which weeds the product targets.
— You may have watered the grass too soon, or it may have rained too soon after the weed and feed application.
— Weeds must be mature and actively growing for weed and feed to be effective. So, you may have applied it at the wrong time in the weed’s life cycle.
— You did not follow all the prepping steps.
“Weed & feed” is what pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are called when they include a lawn fertilizer to nourish the grass. These products can improve your grass when applied at the right time. Improved, healthy grass reduces the chances of weeds sprouting.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent Weed and Feed: Most weed and feed products are post-emergents. They should be applied before weeds sprout to prevent the weed seeds from germinating. Some, like Scott’s Turf Builder, offer options with crabgrass preventer.
\n\n\n\nPost-Emergent Weed and Feed: Weed and feed post-emergents consist of dicamba and other chemicals that attack broadleaf weeds like dollarweed, dandelions, and plantain. They kill weeds that are actively growing, and they work most effectively when the weeds are young and vulnerable.
\n\n\n\nWhen a post-emergent weed and feed is applied, the weed’s foliage absorbs the toxins. Dicamba is a chemical that penetrates the plant’s roots, making the post-emergent more toxic to the weed. Homeowners should be aware that other plants also absorb the chemical and can be damaged. Be careful not to apply post-emergent weed and feeds on plants you want to keep around.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent and Post-Emergent Weed and Feed: Some products contain chemicals that are pre-emergent and post-emergent, which means they can kill currently growing weeds and prevent weeds from growing in the future. The chemical atrazine is an example.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"bags](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/e7e9bd22-a137-4af7-8800-a8c9ed2b9213.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Srinuan Hirunwat / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSelecting the right weed and feed is similar to choosing the appropriate weed killer or fertilizer separately. Be familiar with the weeds you need to eliminate and the type of grass you have. Make sure you know the best time to apply fertilizer to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nRead weed and feed labels to ensure the herbicide kills the type of weeds you have, determine if your grass has to be at a certain stage to use the product, and make sure the time of year to apply the herbicide coincides with the time your grass should be fertilized.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of weed and feed chemicals and products. Included are examples of weeds and grass types they can be used on:
\n\n\n\nAce Lawn Weed Killer
\n\n\n\n— Attacks broadleaf weeds
— Safe to use on: Bermudagrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and Zoysiagrass
MCPP, 2,4-D, and Dicamba Mixture
\n\n\n\n— Attacks broadleaf weeds
— Safe to use on: St. Augustinegrass, tall fescue, Bahiagrass
Scotts Turf Builder
\n\n\n\n— Contains 2,4-D and Dicamba
— Controls several weeds, including common weeds like clover, henbit, and chickweed
— Offers products with crabgrass preventer
— Safe to use on: Centipedegrass, Bahiagrass, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue
How long should you wait before reseeding a lawn after applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed can stop seed germination, so you must ensure it is completely absorbed before reseeding. Wait four weeks before planting grass seed. Likewise, waiting four weeks before overseeding your lawn is also best.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is a lawn treated with herbicides safe for children and pets?
\n\n\n\nAllow a hard rain to wash away any residual from the herbicide. You can also water your grass a few days consecutively before letting children and pets on the grass.
\n\n\n\nWhen not in use, keep herbicides out of the reach of children and pets. These chemicals can be just as harmful to pets as they are to humans.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow can I reduce runoff from herbicides?
\n\n\n\nHerbicides that have spilled over onto hard surfaces like sidewalks or roads can be washed into storm drains. Use a rake or broom to push the chemicals back into your grass. This will reduce runoff that can harm the environment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou have a few choices to treat weeds. Whether you select pre-emergent, post-emergent, or weed and feed products depends on your specific situation. For example, the types of weeds you have, the stage of weed accumulation, and your grass type are all determinants.
\n\n\n\nYou may also base your decision on how the toxicity of chemicals can affect your family and choose DIY weed killer mixtures that are safe for humans and pets. In this case, you would have to fertilize your grass separately, which is not such a bad thing. Grass clippings left on the lawn after mowing are a natural fertilizer. If you have lawn weeds, avoid leaving grass clippings, as this will spread the weeds.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to practice good lawn care habits to maintain a healthy green lawn and keep lawn weeds from returning. Fertilizing, watering, and mowing your grass appropriately will help reduce the chances of weed growth. Treating your grass for diseases is also imperative.
\n\n\n\nAnd if you don’t feel like figuring out weed and feed and other lawn care products yourself, let WikiLawn connect you with qualified lawn care professionals in your area to keep your lawn healthy and appealing for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Use Weed and Feed for Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1789c/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/107df/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 320w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/293e9/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 500w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/f2cbb/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 800w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1789c/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 960w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/c26c2/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1dd6e/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/67b76/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 320w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/8df11/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 500w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/98a65/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 800w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1dd6e/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 960w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/3cc96/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Use Weed and Feed for Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn how and when to use weed and feed products, examples of weeds they control, and the best products for different grass types."}}},{"node":{"id":"d16e2d6b-56c8-59e2-83f4-27ffd9dd8cd8","slug":"benefits-composting-lawn","path":"/lawn-care/benefits-composting-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Ruma Akter","id":"b4adb332-066f-5309-a11a-ada9d71b73f7","path":"/author/opushaon10/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ebb2426fcf700731e458d89422adc475?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 27th, 2019","excerpt":"Looking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer. You may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too. What Is Compost? Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer.
\n\n\n\nYou may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7siWPz9hIYZNaFizVvrLv1ilgO2v5ZEN6q_jZTkH9LyzmiTKBQ-wplgwMSshwyJel0FpzwSEjtWWWzWiVQY7qEuHWGV0kuQrn-qt3FS5grSQfBs4xY62AB-ltZieVNlrBe1SUz3h\")
Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps and yard waste (grass clippings, raked leaves, and remnants of garden plants) make up most compost. Compost also happens on its own in nature with fallen leaves, twigs, and branches. By adding fruit and vegetable scraps, you put back into the soil the ingredients it needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\nFood products that don’t compost well include tea bags (the tea residue works well but only if you remove the bag) and highly acidic citrus fruits and tomatoes (they may kill the good bacteria that break down the compost). Peelings from other fruits and vegetables are also excellent for the compost bin (remove the small paper stickers on them).
\n\n\n\nWhat you don’t want in your compost? Weeds. The weed seeds will spread and regrow in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLawns are dormant in winter, but it’s still a good time for maintenance. Composting supports the root system during dormancy. The organic matter helps the soil retain water, making it more available to the grass roots. Nutrients that would otherwise wash away, (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), make their way down to the roots. The healthier your lawn’s roots are, the deeper they grow and spread under your yard. This holds the soil together and helps it resist wind and water.
\n\n\n\nWith healthier roots created by composting comes healthier soil. The primary nutrients are joined by micronutrients like zinc, iron, copper, and manganese. The fertilizer you buy doesn’t always have these components. But compost breaks down slowly, so it acts as a slow-release fertilizer. The more diverse the ingredients in the compost, the more different types of nutrients sink into the soil. The decomposed compost (also called humus), will also neutralize both acidic and alkaline soils, creating pH levels that enable your grass to absorb the nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn helps break up compacted soil. But compost creates clusters of particles, called aggregates, for a stronger soil structure. These bundles have air channels and tiny holes that keep in water, nutrients, and air. There are basically three types of soil, and organic matter affects each one in different ways.
\n\n\n\nThis dense, heavy soil can be tough to work with. But when maintained, it’s one of the best soils for lawns and gardens. Adding organic matter like pine bark and finely ground leaves creates better soil structure. It also gets rid of drainage problems and compacted soil. Start with 3 to 6 inches of compost on your topsoil and work it down into the ground about ten inches over time. As the matter decomposes, it improves the quality of clay soil.
\n\n\n\nSandy soil is dry with large, coarse particles and a lot of air pockets, so it doesn’t need aeration. It’s also not ideal for growing things because all that space lets water drain before it can provide moisture to plant roots. Fertilizer is ineffective because it washes away before doing any good. Horticulture Agent Charlotte Glen of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension says, “Because they naturally lack nutrients and cannot store nutrients provided by fertilizers, plants growing in sandy sites often show nutrient deficiency symptoms like stunting, yellow leaves, and sparse flowering or poor fruit production.”
\n\n\n\nThe good news is that sand is lightweight and porous and easy to work with. This type of soil needs 3 to 4 inches of compost as topsoil. Till it deep into the ground. Then, in the future, let grass clippings fall onto the yard when mowing. The clippings add to the compost.
\n\n\n\nThis is the best type of soil for growing plants and grass. It’s a mix of equal parts clay, sand, and silt (sediment deposited by running water). While loamy soil already provides excellent growing conditions, you can improve any soil with compost. Do this once a year to lower its pH to a level that works well with grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/fXTp3fOUPxxEJfrU4ABu64j_Zld8HZGr_VZc6ZpQOmTIkGU2ukwTl22wTLSETZwBt11kHl7TGBemnJ5-skvzmyBYzYT8xgSiYPixheaoIRMEWt_nrohyBSv7zGXMzLbyIKHk1BcF\")
Healthy turf is about 50% air, held in pockets and spaces in the soil. When that soil is compacted, moisture and nutrients don’t filter down to the plant’s roots as well as they should. Compost creates more accommodating surroundings by loosening the soil, creating natural energy.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you know if your soil is compacted?
\n\n\n\nWorking organic matter into the ground is the best way to fight compaction. For extreme cases, you may need to use up to 50% compost. This will also help decompose thatch buildup in the fall. Too much thatch causes the root system under your lawn to choke itself.
\n\n\n\nPerhaps the best perk from composting is how it benefits the environment. By putting your vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and other kitchen scraps in a compost pile, you’re keeping it out of landfills. You also eliminate the need for fertilizing. Make sure the organic matter stays damp, and it will keep insects away, negating the need for insecticide. And the air pockets created in the soil will hold more water, meaning you won’t need to water as often.
\n\n\n\nComposting is a win-win in many ways, but poor quality soil with too much clay or sand needs a little more work. After spreading more than an inch of compost over the yard, spray the grass blades with liquid nitrogen to speed up decomposition. Healthy lawns take some work but in the long run, are worth it!
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: normanack, CC 2.0
\n","title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.336116910229645,"src":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/107df/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/293e9/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/f2cbb/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/356ef/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/67b76/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/8df11/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/98a65/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/93f70/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"dca8334b-eef4-5852-bbab-1c382c999382","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Regular mowing and watering can mean the difference between a thick, green lawn and one riddled with brown spots and disease. This monthly lawn care guide for Jacksonville will help you get started with the essentials.
\n","content":"\nBoth humans and plants appreciate the beautiful spring weather in Jacksonville. The sunshine draws turfgrass out of its winter dormancy, and it’ll start growing in full force before you know it. Warm-season grasses awaken from their winter slumber in March, picking up speed in April and May as temperatures rise.
\n\n\n\nNow’s the best time to assess your turf’s health. Did it suffer damage in the winter? Do you need to make any changes to its care? Get your lawn care off on the right foot with these 11 lawn care tips for Jacksonville so you can enjoy healthy, beautiful turf all summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you take a break from mowing in winter, it’s easy to let debris accumulate on the lawn. Thoroughly clean up the following, so you have a clean slate to work with:
\n\n\n\nWhen your lawn is clean, you can get a better look at your grass and be better able to assess its health.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Shredded leaves can make great mulch for your lawn. Here’s how to use them:
\n\n\n\nYou also can purchase a mulching mower to make this process more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you begin any spring lawn treatments, you should get a soil test. Soil tests reveal your soil’s pH levels. Most grasses prefer a pH between 5 and 6, though St. Augustinegrass can tolerate up to 7.5. If the soil pH is too high or low, it interferes with nutrient uptake. Florida’s soils tend to be acidic, but coastal properties may have more alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests also may show what nutrients are in your soil, so you don’t over or under-fertilize. However, not all tests cover nutrient analysis. Contact the University of Florida’s Duval County Extension Office or other soil testing lab to see their current offerings.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes your lawn feel a little spongy? It may have accumulated too much thatch. Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant matter on the soil’s surface. A little thatch is fine, but too much thatch (typically more than an inch) can suffocate your lawn and host pests and diseases. Use a thatch rake, dethatcher, or verticutter to remove this layer.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time to dethatch since your lawn has had some time to recover from winter and regain strength. However, you don’t necessarily need to dethatch every year. Most grass types can get by just fine with thatch removal every few years. The exceptions are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass, since they’re both prone to excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how often you should expect to dethatch the common grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | When to Dethatch |
| Bahiagrass | Rarely an issue |
| Bermudagrass | Once a year; best in summer to reduce recovery time |
| Centipedegrass | Dethatch when the thatch layer is more than ¼ inch |
| St. Augustinegrass | Dethatch when the layer exceeds 1 inch; best done in early spring or midsummer |
| Zoysiagrass | Every few years |
![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith the pleasant weather, you’re probably enjoying more fresh air than before. Believe it or not, your lawn wants to breathe some of that air, too. Compact soil makes it more difficult for air, water, and nutrients to reach your turf’s roots. Heavy clay soils are more prone to compaction, but even the sandy soil in North Florida can fall victim to compaction with enough foot traffic or heavy equipment use.
\n\n\n\nTo relieve soil compaction, aerate your lawn. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing your grass to spread out. Spike aeration also creates small holes for water, air, and nutrients but can ultimately cause the soil around the holes to become more compact. You can take advantage of the holes created by aeration to deliver seeds and fertilizer directly into the ground.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time for this invasive procedure because grass can bounce back quickly during its growing season. It’s also good to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. However, you don’t need to aerate every year. To see if you need aeration, push a screwdriver into the soil. If it’s difficult to do, your soil is compact and needs to be relieved.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Spraying-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour turfgrass may be one of many plants growing on your lawn this spring. Jacksonville is home to many troublesome weeds that compete for resources and affect curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nIf you can already see the weeds, then you need post-emergent herbicides. To get ahead of weeds that haven’t yet sprouted, apply pre-emergent herbicides. Always follow the labels to avoid killing your grass and polluting the local ecosystem. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially risky for newly seeded lawns. To minimize herbicide use, avoid excessive moisture and keep your grass dense and healthy to outcompete weeds naturally.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are categorized by type (broadleaf, grassy, sedges, or rushes) and lifecycle (annual, biennial, or perennial).
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have net-like veins on their broad leaves. They easily stand out from turfgrass, ruining the curb appeal of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some broadleaf weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat broadleaf weeds with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Mowing also helps control them, especially for lawns that aren’t well-established yet.
\n\n\n\nThese weeds have hollow, rounded stems. They can look quite similar to your existing grass, but they’re still a threat.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common grassy weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds are best controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. Goosegrass germinates later than other weeds, so you can wait to apply pre-emergent control for three or four weeks into March. Post-emergent herbicides for grassy weeds are few and far between because they often kill turfgrass, too.
\n\n\n\nRushes have solid round stems, and sedges have solid triangular stems. These weeds prefer moist soils, so avoid overwatering your lawn. Some sedges also like compacted soil because of the poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nSome sedges and rushes in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nCultural control is a good first step for sedges and rushes. Aerate to improve drainage and avoid overwatering. You may need repeated herbicide applications to rid yourself of nutsedges.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live and die in less than a year. There are two types: summer annuals and winter annuals. Winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass will be at the end of their lifecycle, but summer annuals are just getting started.
\n\n\n\nSummer annual weeds in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nThe winter annuals begin life in fall and die off by the end of spring, so you can decide whether to treat them now with post-emergent control or wait until they die on their own. You can get ahead of summer annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicide on the first of March or before temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for four to five days in a row.
\n\n\n\nCultural control is also effective for many annual weeds. Maintain a proper mowing, watering, and aeration schedule to discourage annual weeds.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a longer growing season of two years. During the first year, they will only show vegetative growth. By the second year, they will flower, then die after producing and spreading their seeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some Florida biennials:
\n\n\n\nBiennials are difficult to control in spring if they are seeding. If you remove or treat them with herbicides during their first year, you can halt their spread.
\n\n\n\nUnlike annuals and biennials, perennials can stick around for three or more years if not treated.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials you could find in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause perennials reseed and regrow each year, post-emergent herbicides are most effective. It is easier to control perennials in the fall when they aren’t growing as aggressively.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven healthy grass can fall victim to hungry pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in spring:
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: These scarab beetle larvae eat the roots of all grass types and are found underground. You can check to see if you have them by pulling back a one-square-foot flap of turf. If it lifts easily, it’s probably because the grubs have eaten the roots. Dead turf caused by these pests usually isn’t visible until late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: Appearing in spring and fall, these caterpillars create brown damaged spots in lawns. They particularly like bermudagrass. You can control fall armyworms with pesticides, but they may inadvertently kill their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs: St. Augustinegrass is particularly vulnerable to chinch bugs. They create yellow and brown damage patches that often appear in drought-stressed parts of your lawn. Spring pesticide applications, dethatching, and reducing fertilizer use can help prevent these pests.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs: Check your zoysia and bermudagrass for yellow coloring and easy-to-pull-up grass. This damage from hunting billbugs may be misdiagnosed as drought or disease. Keep your grass well-watered to withstand infestation, and use pesticides when there are more than ten billbugs per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinter sometimes leaves an unpleasant surprise in your lawn: disease. Lawn diseases are usually caused by fungi and cause discoloration and death. If untreated, you could spread the disease with your lawn mower. You’ll need to identify the disease before you can begin treatment. Let’s review some common lawn diseases homeowners encounter in spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease creates discolored turfgrass patches around 1 foot to several feet in diameter. Dark rot infects the lowest part of the leaf, though not the roots. It is especially problematic for St. Augustine and zoysiagrass lawns but can affect all grass types grown in Jacksonville. Look for large patch throughout spring when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nFungicides like azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, fludioxonil, flutolanil, and iprodione will stop the spread. However, it’s better to prevent it in the first place with proper lawn maintenance practices. Water in the morning to avoid leaving the grass excessively wet. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizer instead of quick-release, so you don’t fuel the fungus.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot slows down growth and makes lawns look thinner. Look for small, oval-shaped olive green or brown spots with dark borders. These spots will produce spores when humidity is high. This fungal disease most often affects St. Augustinegrass but also afflicts centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot doesn’t always cause serious problems. However, you can apply fungicides and plant-available silicon before sprigging to suppress gray leaf spot. Avoid compacted soil, overwatering, and quick-release nitrogen. The herbicide atrazine can put St. Augustinegrass at risk if it’s applied when temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease affects St. Augustinegrass lawns in late spring and early summer when rainfall is frequent. The grass is more likely to fall victim if soil fertility is low and light is scarce. Look for dark brown leaf spots and oblong lesions similar to those caused by gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Cercospora leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nUse slow-release nitrogen and potassium fertilizer to prevent Cercospora leaf spot. If the grass is already infected, apply fertilizer with quick-release nitrogen and potassium with a ratio of one to one. Water early in the morning (before 8 a.m.) to avoid long wet periods, and only when the grass shows signs of dehydration. Consider the Bitterblue cultivar for a more resistant St. Augustinegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe silver dollar size of the round, straw-colored patches give this disease its name, though the patches can grow much larger. Look for small, pale lesions on the grass blades. Turfgrass may become thin and more susceptible to weeds. Dollar spot is common in spring and fall and does best when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nKeep grass hydrated, as low soil moisture makes dollar spot worse. Provide sufficient nitrogen through fertilizer to improve resistance — too little makes the grass vulnerable, but too much can promote dollar spot and other diseases. Keep on top of other cultural practices like dethatching and aeration to keep grass healthy enough to fight this disease. Use fungicides if cultural control doesn’t help.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough typically harmless, slime molds coat grass blades with unappealing spores and growths. Some may look like soot while others look like blobs. Slime molds appear in spring when the weather is warm and wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime mold:
\n\n\n\nSmile mold doesn’t technically require control. You can let it disappear naturally and your grass will be fine since the mold only sits on the surface. However, you can remove it with mowing or a strong stream of water.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is thinner than you’d like, it may benefit from overseeding. You can evenly spread the seeds over the whole lawn or target specific areas that are particularly thin. If your lawn has bare patches, consider sprigs, plugs, or sod to fill the area instead.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting more grass, make sure you’ve addressed any underlying issues. If overirrigation, poor soil quality, disease, pest infestation, or other improper care is the root cause of your thin grass, new grass won’t solve the problem. Proper lawn maintenance may make grass grow denser naturally, especially as the peak growing season approaches.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to renovate or repair your lawn, here are the best times to establish each grass type.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting (in Fahrenheit) | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Jacksonville |
| Bahiagrass | 77 – 86 | March – June |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | March – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | April – July |
| St. Augustinegrass* | 65 – 80 | March – May |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | April – July |
*St. Augustine can’t be established with seeds, so the above information applies to sod, plugs, and sprigs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass can best utilize nutrients when they’re actively growing. Use the results of your soil test to guide your purchases in the fertilizer aisle. The best fertilizers for Jacksonville lawns have slow-release nitrogen and little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nFlorida soils tend to be high in phosphorus but keep an eye out for phosphorus deficiency just in case. Symptoms include reduced growth and dark green shoots that turn purple.
\n\n\n\nThe middle of April is the best time to fertilize your lawn. If you fertilize too soon or too much, it can lead to fertilizer runoff and harmful algal blooms in local waterways like the St. John’s River. You also should avoid fertilizing when there’s a hurricane, tropical storm, or flooding warning, so those nutrients don’t go down the drain.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour winter break from mowing was nice, but now you’ll need to dust off the mower and get to work. First, take care of any mower maintenance:
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, check the condition of your weed eater.
\n\n\n\nOnce your tools are ready, measure your grass. You don’t want to cut your grass too short, or it could affect its health. Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade at once. Doing so will damage the grass and hinder its growth. Here are the ideal mowing heights for common Jacksonville grass types:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Your grass won’t reach its peak growth rate until summer, so you only need to mow once or twice a week during spring. Use its current height as your guide, and mow more frequently when you notice its growth rate increasing.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverwatering your lawn can have worse consequences than underwatering, as it encourages diseases and weeds. The University of Florida recommends homeowners irrigate on an as-needed basis to avoid overwatering and wastage. Only irrigate only when you see signs of dehydration, such as:
\n\n\n\nYou will likely need to water your lawn once or twice a week in spring, depending on rainfall. The spring showers in Jacksonville will likely save you time and lower your water bill.
\n\n\n\nMost Jacksonville lawns require ½ to ¾ inch of water at a time. Here are specific recommendations based on grass type:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Amount of Water per Application (in Inches) |
| Bahiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Bermudagrass | ¾ – 1 |
| Centipedegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| St. Augustinegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Zoysiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
The best grass types for Jacksonville are:
• Bahiagrass
• Bermudagrass
• Centipedegrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
All these grasses are warm-season grasses, which means they grow best when temperatures are warm. The bulk of your lawn care will be in summer, but you still need to care for your lawn in spring and fall to prepare it for the changing seasons.
If your current grass type isn’t working, you can try overseeding it with another to see how it fares. If your current grass type is doing well, it’s probably best to stick with what you’ve got.
Some people overseed their lawns in fall with cool-season species like perennial ryegrass to extend its green color during winter.
For the first mow of the season, consider cutting your grass a bit shorter to eliminate old grass and debris. However, you shouldn’t cut off too much, or you could damage the grass. Make sure always to keep the grass height within the recommended guidelines. Feel free to raise your mowing height gradually as the season progresses.
Weed and feed products are not as effective as using each product individually. Pre-emergent herbicides are best applied around March 1 in North Florida, while fertilizer should wait until around April 15.
Do you want to spend your spring on yard work? This season is the perfect time to visit the beach before the summer tourists arrive. Leave lawn care to a Jacksonville professional, and they’ll ensure your lawn is prepped for its peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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