![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/5170268020_4789bb7a5f_o-1.jpg\")
It’s pretty exciting to live in Las Vegas – a city renowned for its vibrant nightlife, entertaining casinos, and luxurious hotels. But beyond the bright lights and busy streets, Sin City is also home to a diverse and unique landscape. So if you want your property to have a beautiful garden, you must learn more […]
\n","content":"\nIt’s pretty exciting to live in Las Vegas – a city renowned for its vibrant nightlife, entertaining casinos, and luxurious hotels. But beyond the bright lights and busy streets, Sin City is also home to a diverse and unique landscape. So if you want your property to have a beautiful garden, you must learn more about these 15 best trees for Las Vegas landscapes.
\n\n\n\nWith Southern Nevada’s arid climate and desert conditions, finding trees that thrive in this environment can be challenging for most homeowners. However, with proper care and attention, creating a stunning landscape is possible even in a desert environment.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nThe following trees can tolerate the city’s unique climate while also adding beauty and character to any yard:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Bri Weldon / Fllickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nNative to southern Africa, this small tree has become a popular ornamental plant in Las Vegas. Homeowners love it for its dense, evergreen foliage and striking crown that add shade and visual interest to their gardens. In fact, you’ll often see these shade trees in parks, along streets, and in front yards throughout the city.
\n\n\n\nA perfect fit for the desert climate of Las Vegas, African sumac grows well in dry, semi-arid regions with rocky soil. Because of this, it’s already well-adapted to survive with little water, making it an excellent option for a low-maintenance garden. Apart from being heat and drought-tolerant, this desert tree also can withstand high winds.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to use African sumac trees for your hedges and privacy screens, prune them regularly and remove dead or damaged branches to encourage healthy growth. Also, mulch around the base to improve soil quality and help retain moisture.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 20-30 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, moist, alkaline, sandy, clay, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – all parts of the tree are poisonous and can cause allergic reactions
\n\n\n\n![\"growing](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/bay-laurel-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Public Domain Pictures
\n\n\n\nBay laurel has long been cultivated for its culinary and medicinal uses. Although native to the Mediterranean region, this drought-tolerant tree has found a home in many Las Vegas gardens due to its ability to thrive in varying climates. It can grow well even in rocky soil and dry and humid environments.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to promote biodiversity and a healthy ecosystem in your garden, bay laurel is a wonderful option. It typically blooms in the spring, producing small, pale yellow flowers that attract bees and other pollinators. You can plant this evergreen tree in your Mediterranean-style landscape, patio, container garden, hedge, and privacy screen.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 12-40 feet tall, 12-40 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, moist, rich, rocky soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to dogs, cats, and horses
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blue-Palo-Verde-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katja Schultz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAn iconic tree native to the southwestern United States, including parts of Nevada, Arizona, and California, blue palo verde adds a touch of natural elegance to the urban environment. It grows in hot, dry regions – making it perfectly suited for the arid climate of Sin City.
\n\n\n\nWith a distinctive greenish-blue bark and vibrant yellow flowers, this desert tree typically blooms in the spring and attracts various pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It’s a larval host to the palo verde beetle, a large insect often found around the tree in the summer.
\n\n\n\nTo create a beautiful and cohesive landscape that celebrates the unique beauty of the desert, you can plant complementary species around this landscaping tree, such as desert marigolds or brittlebush. Also, pair it with one of the best grass types suitable for Nevada.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 20-25 feet tall, 15-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, slightly alkaline, sandy, loam soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/9294575348_13ae39dce3_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: MdAgDept / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nA beautiful and versatile plant, the chaste tree has already adapted well to the hot and dry climate of Las Vegas, Paradise, and Henderson. It blooms in the summer, and its showy spikes of purple or blue flowers attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nThis fruit tree also produces small, dark purple to black fruits about the size of peppercorns. Also known as monk’s pepper, these chaste berries are used for medicinal purposes. Use them with caution, though, as they may cause side effects and interact with certain medications.
\n\n\n\nThe chaste tree is often used as a drought-tolerant alternative to more traditional landscape plants. Also resistant to deer, this deciduous tree is perfect for cottage gardens, foundation plantings, garden beds, and borders.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4-15 feet tall, 4-12 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained but moist, loose, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – but may cause stomach issues, nausea, itchy rashes, and diarrhea in some people
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/2017-08-03_11_28_02_Crape_Myrtle_with_lavender_flowers_along_Stone_Heather_Drive_in_the_Chantilly_Highlands_section_of_Oak_Hill_Fairfax_County_Vi-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Famartin / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWhile crape myrtle can grow in various settings, including forests, savannas, and wetlands, it’s also well-suited for the desert environment of Southern Nevada. In Las Vegas, you’ll see it planted in residential landscapes, parks, and public spaces, including the Springs Preserve and the Clark County Government Center.
\n\n\n\nKnown for its vibrant flowers, attractive bark, and drought tolerance, this deciduous tree has a long blooming season – typically from summer to fall. During this time, crape myrtle produces clusters of beautiful flowers in shades of pink, purple, red, and white.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-12 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained, clay, loamy, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Date_palm_tree-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Balaram Mahalder / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe date palm is an iconic tree of the desert landscape that can be found throughout Sin City, including The Strip. This palm tree naturally thrives in hot, arid environments. With its tall, slender trunk and feather-like fronds, it’s not only a beautiful addition to any garden but also has a rich cultural and historical significance.
\n\n\n\nThis hardy plant produces small flowers that bloom in early spring, which attract pollinators like bees and wasps. The female flowers then develop into the well-known date fruit – a staple food in many Middle Eastern cultures. The tree also can serve as a host plant for the Palm Weevil, a beetle species that lays its eggs in the tree’s trunk.
\n\n\n\nRegular pruning can help maintain the tree’s shape and prevent it from becoming too top-heavy. Additionally, providing the tree with adequate fertilizer can help promote healthy growth and enhance the size and quality of the fruit.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Palm tree or cycad
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 50-80 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, loamy, clay, chalk, or sandy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Slightly toxic – its thorns are poisonous and may cause injuries
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/2574684229_2588e9e3f9_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ken Bosma / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nA stunning flowering tree native to the southwestern United States, desert willow can thrive naturally in arid regions, including the Mojave Desert, Sonoran Desert, and Chihuahuan Desert. But in Las Vegas, this desert tree is often planted in many gardens and public spaces, including the Springs Preserve and the Nevada State Museum.
\n\n\n\nThe desert willow blooms from late spring to early fall, producing fragrant pink or purple flowers that attract various pollinators. Its showy, trumpet-shaped flowers and graceful branches can add a touch of natural beauty to desert landscapes.
\n\n\n\nThis heat and drought-tolerant tree is a symbol of endurance and strength, as it can survive in the harsh desert environment. And if you want to make it even more appealing in your garden, you can plant agave, yucca, and cactus around it.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained soil but grows well in most soil types
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – but its bark can be poisonous to animals, especially cats
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/26192056905_52bb55a294_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katja Schluz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWith its drought-tolerant nature and ability to thrive in dry soil conditions, honey mesquite is a popular choice for landscaping in the Las Vegas Valley area. Smaller than the Chilean mesquite, this shade tree is native to the southwestern US and Mexico.
\n\n\n\nThe honey mesquite is a vital food source for many desert animals, including birds, insects, and mammals. Its sweet-smelling flowers bloom in the spring and attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. It’s also a larval host for various butterfly species, such as the Reakirt’s blue butterfly and long-tailed skipper.
\n\n\n\nOne important thing to consider is that honey mesquite has long, sharp thorns, so it can be hazardous to people and pets. As such, it may be best to plant it in areas where it will not pose a danger to those around it.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 20-30 feet tall, 25-30 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Grows in most soil types but prefers well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low – doesn’t need supplemental watering once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Can be toxic to animals if consumed in large amounts
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Joshua_Trees_Yucca_brevifolia_in_Joshua_Tree_National_Park-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brocken Inaglory / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWith its unique branching pattern resembling outstretched arms, the Joshua tree is easy to spot in open, arid areas where this desert plant naturally grows. Known for its striking appearance and cultural significance, it’s an iconic symbol of the Mojave Desert and the American Southwest.
\n\n\n\nThis slow-growing desert tree blooms from March through May, producing large white or greenish-yellow flowers with diameters of up to 4 inches. These flowers are pollinated by the yucca moth, which lays its eggs in the flowers, and the resulting larvae feed on the developing seeds.
\n\n\n\nTry incorporating native plants and natural landscaping techniques that require less water and maintenance. This way, you can create a natural-looking garden that reflects the beauty of the Mojave Desert while helping conserve resources. For example, you can use rocks and gravel as groundcover and select drought-tolerant plants like yucca, agave, and prickly pear cactus.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, well-drained, coarse soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – can be severely poisonous
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Nerium_oleander_flowers_leaves.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alvesgaspar / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWith its ability to thrive in hot, dry conditions, the oleander tree is perfect for adding beauty to pathways, wall-side borders, hedges, and privacy screens. From late spring through early fall, this evergreen tree produces clusters of showy, fragrant flowers in shades of yellow, red, pink, and white.
\n\n\n\nAlthough this versatile plant is native to the Mediterranean region and Asia, it’s well adapted to the Las Vegas desert environment. It can tolerate drought and resist deer and rabbits. But this fast-growing plant may need more frequent pruning than other plants in your garden.
\n\n\n\nOleander is a larval host to the oleander hawk moth, found in parts of the Southwest, including Nevada. This moth lays its eggs on the leaves of the oleander tree, and the resulting caterpillars feed on the leaves before pupating and eventually emerging as adult moths.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-12
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-15 feet tall, 6-10 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial – but only in 8 to 11 USDA hardiness zones
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers moist, well-drained soil but can grow even in poor soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Highly toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Wide](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Southern-Live-Oak-Quercus-virginiana.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nPrized for their grandeur and shade-providing canopies, southern live oaks do well in Las Vegas’ hot, dry climate – provided they receive proper care. This majestic tree is a perfect specimen plant that can tolerate drought.
\n\n\n\nWhile southern live oaks do not produce showy flowers, they are an essential habitat for various wildlife, including birds, squirrels, and even certain species of bats. The tree’s acorns also serve as a vital food source for many animals.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to maintain the shape and structure of your southern live oak, be sure to prune it regularly. Remember to avoid planting anything too close to its root system, as it can harm the tree’s health.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 40-80 feet tall, 30-100 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained, moist, loamy, or clay soil but can grow even in dry soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic – avoid ingesting the acorns and leaves as they can be poisonous to both humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Southern-Magnolia-Magnolia-grandiflora1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Evans / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAnother iconic tree species, the southern magnolia can grow up to 80 feet tall. But it is more commonly seen in Las Vegas at a smaller size. Still, with its beautiful, fragrant blooms and glossy, dark green leaves, it’s a standout feature that can add value to any garden in Sin City.
\n\n\n\nTypically blooming in the late spring to early summer, southern magnolia produces large, showy white or pinkish flowers that can be up to 12 inches in diameter. The flowers are often fragrant and attract various pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. The tree is also a larval host to the Eastern tiger swallowtail butterfly.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 60-80 feet tall and 30-50 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, moist, fertile soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low – may need supplemental watering during extended dry spells
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic to both humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Sweet-Acacia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. James / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nA drought-tolerant, flowering tree, sweet acacia is well-suited to the hot and dry climate of the Las Vegas Valley. Its natural habitat includes the southwestern U.S., as well as the Chihuahuan and Sonoran deserts of Mexico. From late winter through early summer, this small tree produces fragrant, golden-yellow blooms that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nWith its unique, fern-like foliage that’s evergreen in mild winter areas, sweet acacia can be an attractive feature in your landscape year-round. But remember to prune it to promote a strong, multi-stemmed structure and shape it to maintain a tidy appearance.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-20 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen to evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist to dry, well-drained, loose, sandy, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic to humans, but its seeds can be toxic to dogs
\n\n\n\n![\"white](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cordia-boissieri-20080405.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Miwasatoshi / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nA small, multi-trunked tree native to Texas and Mexico, the Texas olive tree is prized for its delicate and fragrant white flowers. It blooms in the spring, followed by small, edible fruits that ripen in the summer. This evergreen tree is often used in desert landscaping designs, as its spreading canopy provides dappled shade.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it naturally grows in dry and rocky soils, Texas olive also can thrive in well-drained soils with minimal watering, making it a suitable option for Las Vegas homeowners looking for a drought-tolerant tree. And if you want to bring it indoors in the winter, you can plant it in a container.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 9-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 15-30 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen to semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers dry, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil but can thrive even in rocky soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Mildly toxic – its raw fruits can be slightly poisonous
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/8608896016_1737912938_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Rusk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIn its natural habitat, Western redbud is found in the foothills and canyons of the western United States, from California to Utah. It thrives in dry, rocky soil and often grows alongside other desert plants like Joshua trees and creosote bushes. It has beautiful, heart-shaped leaves and can tolerate drought and resist deer.
\n\n\n\nThis popular ornamental plant can be found in many residential landscapes and public parks throughout Las Vegas, including Floyd Lamb Park and the nearby Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The tree blooms clusters of pink or purple flowers in late winter or early spring, providing an essential source of nectar and pollen for native bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall, 10-15 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade to full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained, clay, chalk, sand, or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic – its young pods and flowers are edible
\n\n\n\nWith its hot and arid climate, Las Vegas can be a challenging environment for planting and growing trees. However, certain species have adapted well and can thrive with the right care and attention.
\n\n\n\nLas Vegas is located in USDA hardiness zone 9a, which means its average minimum winter temperature is around 20 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nThe city’s average high temperatures fall within this range:
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, the average low temperatures in Sin City fall between:
\n\n\n\nOne key factor that determines a tree’s success in this climate is its water needs. Since Las Vegas is located in the desert, it receives very little rainfall. The average annual rainfall is only about 4.5 inches, with a large percentage falling during winter.
\n\n\n\nTrees native to the Southwest, as well as the ones listed above, thrive in Las Vegas because of their ability to:
\n\n\n\nThe first place you can try is the Springs Preserve – a 180-acre cultural institution showcasing the natural history of the Mojave Desert. Here, you can stroll through the botanical garden and see a wide range of trees and other desert plants.
Another great spot is the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, just a short drive west of the city. Here, you can explore the stunning red rock formations and take photos of various desert trees, including the iconic Joshua tree.
If you want a more educational experience, the University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV) has a campus arboretum featuring numerous trees and plants, including many desert-adapted species.
No. Under the Las Vegas Valley Water District (LVVWD) guidelines, watering is allowed at certain hours and days per week for each address, with designated days based on your watering group. However, watering is strictly prohibited on Sundays, regardless of address.
When choosing the best grass type for your Las Vegas landscape, you should consider the city’s hot and dry climate. The most popular grass type for this area is bermudagrass, which is known for its drought tolerance and ability to thrive in full sun. This warm-season grass requires regular mowing and watering during the growing season but can withstand hot summer temperatures and cold winters once established.
But remember that Nevada passed a law banning non-functional grass in certain areas, including the Las Vegas Valley. So, homeowners and businesses are required to replace non-functional grass with water-efficient landscaping or hardscaping. Non-functional grass refers to purely ornamental turf with no practical purpose, such as grass in medians or large lawns that are rarely used. This law aims to conserve water and promote sustainable landscaping practices in the region.
With the right care and attention, these 15 trees can thrive in your Las Vegas landscape. Not only can they withstand the heat, drought, and wind that are common in the area, but they also have stunning visual appeal and ecological benefits.
\n\n\n\nWhether you’re looking to plant a tree that provides shade, attracts wildlife, or simply adds a touch of greenery to your yard, there’s an option here to meet your needs. But remember to choose the right tree for your specific environment and soil type.
If you need help with your desert landscaping design, reach out to a local landscaping pro for expert guidance.
Main Image Credit: Oleander Tree / Pixabay
\n","title":"15 Best Trees for Las Vegas Landscapes","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.486988847583643,"src":"/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/1789c/Oleandar-Tree.jpg","srcSet":"/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/107df/Oleandar-Tree.jpg 320w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/293e9/Oleandar-Tree.jpg 500w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/f2cbb/Oleandar-Tree.jpg 800w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/1789c/Oleandar-Tree.jpg 960w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/c26c2/Oleandar-Tree.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/1dd6e/Oleandar-Tree.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/67b76/Oleandar-Tree.webp 320w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/8df11/Oleandar-Tree.webp 500w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/98a65/Oleandar-Tree.webp 800w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/1dd6e/Oleandar-Tree.webp 960w,\n/static/dc2a67ef4dc52aaa02f1853343b3b96e/3cc96/Oleandar-Tree.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"15 Best Trees for Las Vegas Landscapes | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover the best trees for Las Vegas landscapes and know about their unique features that help them thrive in the desert."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"87d3348f-0de8-5a75-8c39-3d89a6894e1d","slug":"how-to-make-spring-lawn-care-miserable-what-not-to-do-this-spring","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-make-spring-lawn-care-miserable-what-not-to-do-this-spring/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"September 8th, 2018","excerpt":"Ever wondered how your perfect neighbor down the street has a top-notch lawn at the beginning of every spring? Maybe the guy is a former landscaper at Augusta National Golf Club. Or maybe he sold his soul in exchange for the best lawn in your whole county, annually. I’m sure you’d like to believe one […]
\n","content":"Ever wondered how your perfect neighbor down the street has a top-notch lawn at the beginning of every spring? Maybe the guy is a former landscaper at Augusta National Golf Club. Or maybe he sold his soul in exchange for the best lawn in your whole county, annually.
\nI’m sure you’d like to believe one of those possibilities. But most likely, the man simply stays on top of his yard work during the winter time. He is prepared. His reward is not struggling during March and April in order to get his Bermuda lawn back under control.
\nWhile you are missing your kid’s ball games and skipping lake trips to fight off all manner of weeds, “Mr. Yard of the Month” has plenty of time to relax and enjoy his property.
\nSo let’s continue your streak of terrible yard experiences each and every year. Use these tips to make your spring lawn care as miserable as possible, or avoid the satire and follow these laughable statements as what to easily not do.
\nYou know deep down that your Toro mower is not designed to be a wood chipper. But you just can’t help yourself. So keep leaving those fallen tree limbs and branches all over the yard.
\nEven if you don’t want to destroy your mower deck and blades, surely you enjoy picking up limbs on the first sunny day in April, right? It sure beats a trip to your favorite hiking trail.
\nPro tip: It would be a good idea to prune any weak looking limbs during the winter so they don’t add to the fallen branches. Also, protect your eyeballs and prevent concussions. Go ahead and trim those limbs you’ve banged your head on for the past decade.
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/wheelbarrow-full-of-garden-equipment-300x200.jpg\")
Photo: Flickr / Paul Johnson
\nFor me, there is nothing better than saving money with low effort. I don’t like handing hard-earned cash over to the mower repair shop.
\nBut since you want to cause yourself plenty of stress when the flowers bloom, don’t dare winterize your lawn equipment.
\nPro tip: A couple of repair guys told me that ethanol resulted in about 80 percent of their work.
\nNobody has time for fun in the sun come May. Keep yourself busy with nonsense like cleaning out those gutters full of November leaves. Sure, you could have cleaned them out easier when they were 100 percent leaf material. Now they are wet and resemble potting soil as they decomposed over the winter. Have fun with the rubber gloves.
\nAnd most lawn procrastinators will toss the gutter debris right on the grass. That’s a great way to kill off spots of turf as the debris weighs down the young blades of grass.
\nSince you like testing yourself, let those lawn pests build up for a fight. No need battling a few ants when you can let them form an army over the winter.
\nPro tip: Fire ants may be coming to your area soon. They are found in 17 U.S. states currently and only cause $1.2 billion in damage each year.
\nDon’t bother using these tricks to get a jump on lawn pests:
\nYour neighbor with the lush lawn likes pre-emergent herbicides to keep weeds away. But you wouldn’t want to bother with that in the winter. You have better things to do, like watch 23 meaningless college football bowl games.
\nPre-emergents work gradually so they are used by homeowners with patience. Guys who don’t use them end up using post-emergents all spring and summer. It’s a giant time-suck!
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/flower-bed-spring-lawn-care-300x221.jpg\")
Photo: Flickr / danielle_hp
\nLeaves in the flower beds may look festive in the fall, but not in December. It’s a miserable chore to get those soggy leaves out of mulch beds in March. Dry leaves can be blown easily with a blower in the fall. But be prepared to get your hands dirty and blistered with a rake once they have been in the beds for three long months.
\nA proper lawn guy would wait no later than mid-November to clean those flower beds up. You want to have a neat yard when the family visits on Thanksgiving anyway.
\nIt can cost you a pile of money to buy yard tools that you only use once per year. Do you really need a 10-foot extendable gas-powered chainsaw very often? It would be a good plan to get together with five of your buddies from the neighborhood and create a tool co-op. This setup allows you all to use each other’s tools. Most homeowners don’t need ten different lawn tools. Share and save money.
\nBy the way, this is another way to stay connected to your neighbors. Flying solo is unhealthy mentally. Be the lone wolf and enjoy the misery. Or join the pack so you can break your tool addiction.
\nWinter time is a good opportunity to adapt to “The Great Outdoors” of your backyard. If you can come up with ways to enjoy the patio when it’s really cold, then you can enjoy the days in April – September with less than perfect weather. Storms and cold fronts also come in the warmer seasons.
\nBut if you love misery, just stay piled up on the couch all winter. Don’t give any thought to the ways you can heat the patio with a chiminea, natural gas heater, or a simple DIY fireplace. Your pasty skin will be your reward.
\nSince you treat your mower like a tank when in use, you can do the same while it sits idle before spring. It would be a waste of time for you to inspect the tires, right? You never ran over any debris last year I’m sure.
\nPro tip: Even with tough “no-flat” type tires, you may have wheel bearings that get dirty and need greasing.
\nAnd mower belts last forever, don’t they? They must be in great shape even after chips of limbs flew around the belts with your patented wood-chipping style! And since you’re not a mower repair expert, belt replacement will eat up half of your Saturday in early spring.
\nTo make your mowing take longer and damage your grass, don’t even think of sharpening the blades after your last cut in the fall. Just do your usual… buy new blades once you see chunks of metal missing (unsafe… do not do!).
\nThose tips should make your life pretty tough when spring pops up. Maybe you learned this vicious cycle from your dad. You must think it’s a rite of passage to struggle in the springtime with mowing, lawn pests, and running to Home Depot every day.
\nIt is not!
\nJust take a look at “Mr. Yard of the Month” as you drive by this spring. He’s laying up in his hammock, sipping a cold one, and teaching his dog to fetch. He’s also found time to coach his daughter’s softball team to a 5-0 record. And I bet he walks around barefoot on that awesome lawn for the heck of it.
\nThere’s still time for that to be you. All it takes is some attention to your yard when the weather is not so perfect. For additional reading on how to actually take care of your lawn and prepare it for the spring, here a couple resources:
\nYou can do a lot in Massachusetts – get a frappe, bang a uey into Dunks, catch a game at the Garden – but the best is hanging in your yard. Gardening, sunbathing, or tossing a pigskin is even better with a luscious lawn. Whether you’re living on the Cape, the Hub, or down the […]
\n","content":"\nYou can do a lot in Massachusetts – get a frappe, bang a uey into Dunks, catch a game at the Garden – but the best is hanging in your yard. Gardening, sunbathing, or tossing a pigskin is even better with a luscious lawn. Whether you’re living on the Cape, the Hub, or down the Pike in Western Massachusetts, choose one of the 5 best grass seed types for Massachusetts for a wicked awesome lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWith Massachusetts’ relatively mild summers and freezing winters, all but one type of turf (Zoysiagrass) is cool-season grass. In general, there are key differences between warm-season and cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses grow quickly and have high-drought tolerance. Conversely, cool-season grasses are resilient and luxurious.
\n\n\n\nBut those differences only scratch the surface. Here are some more differentiating characteristics between warm-season and cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nThe following grass seed types are perfect for Massachusetts’ climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe fine fescue grass type is a combination of slender creeping red fescue, strong creeping red fescue, hard fescue, chewings fescue, and sheep fescue. Depending on the mixture, fine fescue ranges from blue-green to medium green, and the blades are soft and needle-thin. As long as temperatures stay below 90 degrees, fine fescue lawns stay green throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass except for creeping red fescues, which have rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high; prefers at least four hours of sunlight per day
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; can be prone to diseases like red thread and snow mold
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5- 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry to somewhat moist, rocky, sandy, or clay soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For best results, it’s recommended to plant this during late summer or early fall, but it also can be planted in early spring. During the germination process, which can take up to three weeks, it’s important to keep the soil moist.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is the most popular cool-season grass due to its lovely dark bluish-emerald color with soft, medium to fine texture. Its self-repairing rhizomes fill in gaps and create a beautiful carpeted lawn. But its roots are short, making absorbing essential nutrients hard. Therefore, it’s best to mix Kentucky Bluegrass with other grass types like fescue or ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches – mow taller in the summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high – can be prone to summer patch, snow molds, fairy rings, leaf spot, dollar spot, chinch bugs, grubs, greenbugs, and bluegrass billbugs
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: To ensure the best growth for this grass type, fertilize twice a year (in spring and fall) and frequently mow your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a fast-growing dark green grass with a fine leaf texture. While it can easily stand alone, it’s often used as a companion (nurse grass) for other grasses and seed blends because of its low maintenance, hardiness, and resistance to pests and diseases. However, while still lovely, its bunched growth habit doesn’t typically create a dense carpet-like lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type (tillers)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low – goes dormant in dry summers
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High – needs frequent cutting
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers fertile, well-drained soils but adapts to many soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: The best time to fertilize perennial ryegrass in Massachusetts is in the early spring or early fall, providing optimal conditions for nutrient uptake and promoting healthy growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTall fescue is fast-growing with shiny, wide, ribbed, dark green coarse leaves. With excellent cold tolerance, it can survive our cold winters. Due to its bunched growth, it’s best as a stand-alone grass. When mixed with other grass types, your lawn grows patchy and unattractive. It doesn’t require dethatching or a lot of fertilization but may require overseeding.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass – it has vertical shoots called “tillers”
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – can’t recuperate easily
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate – prepare to mow often due to its fast growth rate
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Best on clay soils high in organic matter but adapts to many soil types.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For optimal growth and vibrancy of your lawn, apply fertilizer once during the fall months, preferably in September or November.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is slow-growing but forms a beautiful, dense light to emerald green lawn with fine blades. It’s the only warm-season grass recommended this far north, but it will go dormant in the winter (it hides under the snow). Due to its appearance, excellent erosion control, and high foot traffic tolerance, it’s a common choice for parks, golf courses, and other public places.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High – although it needs supplemental watering during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate resistance – common diseases include leaf spot, fairy rings, brown patch, powdery mildew, rust, large patch, spring dead spot, root decline, and dollar spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate resistance
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers well-drained soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It’s best to fertilize Zoysiagrass during the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nPlanting grass seed in Massachusetts is a relatively easy DIY project if you follow the proper steps.
• Choose the right time: It varies by region and grass type. But in Massachusetts, homeowners usually plant grass in the fall.
• Prepare the site: Remove dead grass and grade it if needed. Also, rake where you plan to plant.
• Prepare the soil: Test your soil, then fertilize it as needed.
• Choose the best seed: Consider your lawn’s soil, sun, and foot traffic, as well as the amount of time you have for maintenance.
• Plant the seed: Using a spreader, distribute grass seed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Water appropriately: Varies by grass type. Understand your grass types’ water needs, or you could have lawn problems.
• Monitor seed establishment: Growth will take five to 21 days, depending on the grass type. Watch for bare spots as grass comes in. Reseed bare spots.
• Mow and maintain: Mow and maintain according to grass type needs.
Early fall is the best time to plant grass seed in Massachusetts. During this season, the days are cool with intermittent rain, but the ground is still warm enough for germination. This combination ensures that newly planted seeds won’t dry out.
Perennial ryegrass is known for its excellent traffic tolerance, making it a popular choice for high-traffic areas in Massachusetts. Its ability to withstand foot traffic and recover quickly from damage makes it an ideal grass type for lawns that experience heavy use.
Several grass types grow well in Massachusetts’ sandy, acidic soil, but each has pros and cons. When choosing your grass seed type, think about your soil’s microclimate – soil, sunlight, water–and how much time you can devote to maintenance.
\n\n\n\nIn the end, your choice will still depend on your specific needs and preferences. If your kids or pets spend a lot of time outside, go with Perennial ryegrass. If you want to mow less often, try Zoysiagrass. Plant Kentucky bluegrass if your goal is simply a dense, beautiful lawn. Or you might want a combination of grasses to achieve a balance of desirable traits.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve established your lawn, don’t forget to add the best native plants to make your landscape pop. Whether in Boston, Worcester, Springfield, Cambridge, Lowell, or somewhere in between, Wikilawn can connect you with a highly-rated lawn care pro who can help keep your grass healthy.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Boston Common / Shiyang Hu / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Seed Types for Massachusetts","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1789c/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/107df/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 320w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/293e9/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 500w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/f2cbb/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 800w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1789c/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 960w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/c26c2/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1dd6e/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/67b76/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 320w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/8df11/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 500w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/98a65/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 800w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/1dd6e/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 960w,\n/static/a3fa1900403ca6eba39c73b36120f936/3cc96/People-under-tree-in-Boston-Common.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Seed Types for Massachusetts | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"There are 5 best grass seed types for Massachusetts, including fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and Zoysiagrass."}}},{"node":{"id":"77f97ce0-b4a4-5be4-950b-fc96540e55b2","slug":"best-grass-types-grand-rapids","path":"/lawn-care/michigan/grand-rapids-mi/best-grass-types-grand-rapids/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"438713f2-daf7-5a75-a66f-7741f7e2b4cb","name":"Grand Rapids","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/michigan/grand-rapids-mi/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"75fb394d-179e-5e85-92bb-a24a339af8a6","name":"Michigan","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/michigan/"}],"date":"April 17th, 2023","excerpt":"From the beautiful array of greenery at the Frederik Meijer Gardens to the many parks and festivals in Grand Rapids, there’s no shortage of reasons why you wouldn’t want to be out enjoying the city’s sites. When you come home, you want to return to a landscape as well-kept and inviting. That’s why we’ve compiled […]
\n","content":"\nFrom the beautiful array of greenery at the Frederik Meijer Gardens to the many parks and festivals in Grand Rapids, there’s no shortage of reasons why you wouldn’t want to be out enjoying the city’s sites. When you come home, you want to return to a landscape as well-kept and inviting. That’s why we’ve compiled a list of the best grass-types for the cool Grand Rapids fall and spring weather, warm summers, and freezing and snowy winters.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of grasses to choose for your lawn: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Cool-season grasses thrive best in Grand Rapids.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in hot, humid climates and go dormant during the cold winter months. When the temperatures drop below freezing, the grass turns brown. Because warm-season grass thrives best in areas with hot summers and short, mild winters, they are found in the southern regions of the United States.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses also go dormant in freezing temperatures, but cool-season grasses go dormant later in the season than warm-season grasses. Cool-season grass also goes dormant in hot summer temperatures. Since cool-season grass grows best in cool to mild weather, when air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, they are usually found in the northern regions of the United States.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are ideal for Grand Rapids. The grass is equipped for the cool spring and fall Grand Rapids weather, humid summers, and freezing winters.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a popular choice for Grand Rapids homeowners. It has a dark green color and is a lush, dense grass. It expands and germinates new grass, so homeowners with dead spots or bald patches gravitate towards Kentucky bluegrass. There is a tradeoff, however. It needs regular mowing and watering to keep it healthy, and it has high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass has low shade tolerance and grows best on properties that get a lot of sun. If your property has many trees or buildings blocking the sunlight, you may want to go with fine fescue or tall fescue, as they are more shade tolerant.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass has a soft texture, moderate foot traffic tolerance, and the ability to recover quickly from damage. This grass is right at home for those who love to host outdoor events or who have children engaged in kickball games a few times a month.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate; Requires proper irrigation during hot months or it will go brown.
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate; It quickly recovers from damage.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5 – 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Blending two to four cultivars will give the best performance. Keep in mind that seeding in late spring or early summer may cause a weed problem. But you can sod or seed Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man's](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red-Fescue-a-species-of-fine-fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a striking blue-green look. It grows early and is a viable option if you’re looking to blend grasses. You may have a yard that is more colorful than some, as fine fescue sometimes has a green color lighter than other grasses.
\n\n\n\nIf Kentucky bluegrass doesn’t work for you because your property doesn’t get a lot of sun, fine fescue may be calling your name. It’s the most shade-tolerant cool-season grass. For the best results, plant the chewings variety. It is the most shade-tolerant fine fescue variety.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue’s fine texture welcomes bare feet, but tread lightly. It has low to moderate traffic tolerance. A few trips across the grass to the mailbox are okay, but this is not the grass for children having regular jump rope challenges.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has low watering, mowing, and fertilization requirements. Sheep and hard fescue are most revered in the Grand Rapids area for how easy they are to maintain.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red Fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. It prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Hard fescue, chewings, and creeping red are frequently mixed with perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass for shady, dry areas.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re not really into all of the work of Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue requires less maintenance. Like Kentucky bluegrass, it requires frequent mowing, but it does not produce significant thatch and it has lower fertilization needs. If you prefer to have more time enjoying the Grand Rapids Art Museum than maintaining a lawn, you may gravitate towards tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue will also grow better in the shade than Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue stands out with its wide leaves and glossy, dark green color. It thrives in the cooler weather and freezing winters of Grand Rapids because it’s cold-tolerant. It’s also drought-tolerant and retains its green color through most Grand Rapids summers without needing additional watering. But extensively long, dry months will require you to quench tall fescue’s thirst with plenty of water to avoid stress and damage.
\n\n\n\nThe coarsely-textured grass may encourage you to keep your shoes on. It’s also not the best choice if your yard is home to regular block parties and barbeques. It has moderate foot-traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when the grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Retains its green color during the winter, depending on the variety. The Juvenile variety is not cold-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrand Rapids homeowners take to perennial ryegrass when they need a quick cover. It germinates and develops faster than some other gasses, like Kentucky bluegrass. So ryegrass may be a better choice if you have bare spots, need to overseed, or are establishing a lawn.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass is recommended if you are seeding in the summer, but with the caveat of never using more than 50 percent of it in a mixture. Perennial ryegrass has poor resistance to extreme conditions like heat, cold, and drought. While the freezing Grand Rapids winter temperatures may be a challenge for ryegrass, the typical cooler non-summer months provide the right conditions for better performance.
\n\n\n\nSpeaking of performance, if you have children that like to show off their athletic abilities by regularly running, playing, and tumbling across the grass, perennial will be well-suited for your home. The fine-textured grass blades offer some cushion and comfort for stumbles and falls, too.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a rich green color with a glossy look on one side of the leaf. This grass loves to sunbathe. It has low shade-tolerance. It takes less to maintain perennial than tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, as perennial only requires moderate mowing and fertilizing. If you’d rather spend time in the yard playing with the children instead of pushing a lawn mower and laying down fertilizer, you’ll appreciate perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch buildup isn’t significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It mixes well with other grass types like Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrasses, and fine fescues. Mixing it with Kentucky bluegrass creates a lawn more tolerant of disease and high traffic.
\n\n\n\nCreeping bentgrass takes a lot of time and money to maintain. For example, it’s highly vulnerable to diseases and needs to be treated with fungicides and other chemicals. In Michigan, it’s primarily used on golf courses. If you do see this bentgrass creeping in someone’s lawn, it’s usually not intentional. Creeping bentgrass found in Michigan homes are considered weeds.
Cool-season grasses go dormant in the summer when the air temperature is more than 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Long periods of dryness can also cause the grass to go dormant. To manage summer dormancy from drought, water the grass. Cool-season grasses also go dormant when the soil temperature is consistently below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
No. It depends on the species. Sheep fescue is bluish-green. Chewings fescue and creeping red fescue have a medium to dark green color. Hard fescue has a gray-green appearance.
When choosing the right grass for your property, consider your area’s climate and soil conditions. Make sure you understand which grass types are best for mixing, what grass types they’re best for mixing with, and how combining different types will affect the overall performance of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSelect a grass type that fits well with your family’s outdoor activity frequency and your availability for maintenance.
\n\n\n\nNative plants are another way to enhance your yard and give back to the ecosystem. Native plants provide food and habitat for butterflies, birds, and wildlife while adding color and variety to your landscaping design.
\n\n\n\nWe understand that you want to get back to the touring and taste testing of the 40 plus craft breweries that await you. They don’t call Grand Rapids Beer City, USA for nothing. Hire a Grand Rapids lawn care professional so they can mow while you sip.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Meyer May House / WMrapids / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Grand Rapids, MI","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/1789c/Meyer-May-House.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/107df/Meyer-May-House.jpg 320w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/293e9/Meyer-May-House.jpg 500w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/f2cbb/Meyer-May-House.jpg 800w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/1789c/Meyer-May-House.jpg 960w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/c26c2/Meyer-May-House.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/1dd6e/Meyer-May-House.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/67b76/Meyer-May-House.webp 320w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/8df11/Meyer-May-House.webp 500w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/98a65/Meyer-May-House.webp 800w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/1dd6e/Meyer-May-House.webp 960w,\n/static/6876fe74dc6f3af9a73f56bd3b3b216c/3cc96/Meyer-May-House.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Grand Rapids, MI","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"This guide explores the properties of the four best grass types for Grand Rapids. Find out which cool-season grass fits your yard and lifestyle."}}},{"node":{"id":"1a0c0738-28df-59e5-8559-5d5e7a104891","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/watering-restrictions-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors.
\n","content":"\nVirginia Beach is one of the lucky metropolitan areas when it comes to lawn watering. Watering restrictions in Virginia Beach are pretty much nonexistent. A representative of the public utility says Virginia Beach has plenty of water. But the truth isn’t quite as simple as that, and the city asks people to follow a list of water conservation recommendations. Here’s a little bit of the history behind this, along with the city’s conservation recommendations.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest drought of the last century took place in 1930. The United States Geological Survey says that was one of the most severe droughts recorded in the state. Things dried up again in 1938-1942, and 1962-1971 and other years, like in the 1980s More recently, a milder drought hit Virginia in 2002.
\n\n\n\nToday, Virginia Beach pumps in millions of gallons a day from Lake Gaston. That abundant water supply allows the city to skirt water restrictions. But this didn’t come without a court challenge from the state of North Carolina, where part of the lake is located. Virginia Beach prevailed, but the water supply is a hard-fought resource, and the city promotes conservation.
\n\n\n\nThe city of Virginia Beach has a list of recommendations for outdoor and indoor water use on its website. Those recommendations include watering your lawn in the early morning. Morning watering is also best for the grass since it allows the roots time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. Watering during the day wastes water and watering at night leaves the lawn vulnerable to disease and fungus. The city also recommends replacing some of your grass with mulched garden beds and choosing native plants, which are adapted to the climate of Virginia Beach. Other common-sense tips include aiming your sprinklers away from driveways and streets and towards your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line is that you can water as much as you want and when you want, and the city of Virginia Beach is not going to come after you. Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors. Save the water for a rainy day … or rather several dry days when we really need it!
\n\n\n\nWant more information about lawn care and landscaping in Virginia Beach? Visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Western Carolina has ample natural beauty. Its mountains, high elevation, and variety of plant life set it apart from the rest of the Carolinas, so it’s essential that you know how to care for your yard in this unique climate. Adding turf grass, plants, and various other features to your property can be daunting at […]
\n","content":"\n
Western Carolina has ample natural beauty. Its mountains, high elevation, and variety of plant life set it apart from the rest of the Carolinas, so it’s essential that you know how to care for your yard in this unique climate.
Adding turf grass, plants, and various other features to your property can be daunting at first. But don’t worry; there are plenty of tips and tricks to not only make your Western Carolina landscape beautiful but also easier to care for.
\n\n\n\nHere are 11 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Western Carolina.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Highbush_blueberries.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ryjial Christianson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThere are a lot of native plants in Western Carolina that do well in the local climate and soil. This makes them easier to care for. In addition, native plants provide important habitat and food sources for wildlife, making them an eco-friendly choice for landscaping.
\n\n\n\nBecause the variety of Western Carolina’s natives is so vast, make sure that you research which plants are best suited to your needs and preferences. Consider factors like sunlight needs, maintenance needs, potential hazards, and so forth.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nSome plants native to Western Carolina:
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather plant a tree, consider:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The price of your plants depends on their type and size. A new flower bed costs $1,000 to $3,000, and a new shrub costs $25 to $60 per plant, although large shrubs can cost up to $350. Tree prices typically range between $150 and $1,850 per tree but can cost as much as $3,335.
\n\n\n\nWildflowers grow in poor soil without any surplus irrigation or fertilizer. Just think about how much work you can save by letting these plants do their own thing and thrive. Plus, reducing your chemical usage is good for wildlife and the environment.
\n\n\n\nA wildflower meadow can grow within 2 to 3 years. It can also attract pollinators and birds to your yard.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of wildflowers:
\n\n\n\nExamples of wildflowers:
\n\n\n\nCost: Wildflower seed mixes (mixes of wildflowers and healthy native grasses) cost $60 to $80 per 1,000 square feet. Their professional installation runs $750 to $2,500 for a typical quarter-acre lawn, depending on the preparation needed.
\n\n\n\nFresh herbs enhance food flavor and often have various health benefits, and many of them are a good fit for your Western Carolina garden. And although most herbs aren’t native to Western Carolina, they’re popular; the largest herb festival in the U.S. is actually held in Asheville.
\n\n\n\nHerbs are often native to Mediterranean regions, so they may be able to resist heat and drought. However, make sure that you check the plant’s cold hardiness to be sure it also withstands cold weather.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of herbs:
\n\n\n\nExamples of cold-hardy herbs:
\n\n\n\nCost: Most small potted herbs cost $3 to $15 per plant. If you want to grow herbs from seed, a packet of seeds costs $1 to $3, and a herb garden starter kit ranges from $20 to $45.
\n\n\n\n![\"Turk’s-cap](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Turks-cap-Lily.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shenandoah National Park / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to replace your flowers every year, consider perennials. These plants come back year after year, making them a great investment for any garden. With proper care, they can provide beautiful blooms for many seasons to come.
\n\n\n\nTrue, annuals typically have more vibrant, longer-lasting blossoms, so the best thing to do is to mix perennials and annuals in your garden. Be sure to research various plants and their characteristics to better understand which ones are right for you.
\n\n\n\nBenefits of perennial plants:
\n\n\n\nExamples of perennial plants for Western North Carolina:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost varies based on the type and size. To give you some approximate figures, plants usually cost $2.50 to $60 per plant, if you plant them yourself, but some plants can cost up to $100. Shrubs typically cost between $25 and $60 per shrub. Large shrubs may cost up to $350. Trees usually cost between $150 and $1,850 per tree, but some trees can cost up to $3,335.
\n\n\n\nJust because most trees and plants go to sleep during the winter doesn’t mean all of yours have to. You can keep your yard vibrant during the colder months by planting evergreens and “winter interest” plants.
\n\n\n\nEvergreen trees’ and “winter interest” plants’ lasting foliage isn’t their only advantage. They have numerous other benefits as well, which makes them a great option for your low-maintenance Western Carolina yard. There are various evergreen and “winter interest” plants out there, so make sure you look into which ones can work for you for your local climate.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of evergreens and “winter interest” plants:
\n\n\n\nIn addition, evergreens also have the following advantages:
\n\n\n\nExamples of “winter interest” plants:
\n\n\n\nEvergreen trees that thrive in Western Carolina:
\n\n\n\nCost: Prices range from $20 to $3,335, depending on the plant’s size, species, and maturity. Small flowering winter interest plants range from $20 to $35; a new shrub costs $25 to $60 per shrub (although large shrubs can cost up to $350); and small trees range from $100 to $600. Larger trees usually cost between $150 and $1,850 per tree, but some can cost up to $3,335 per tree.
\n\n\n\nTaking care of your turf can be a lot of work. If you want an easy-care alternative that gives the same dense, green appeal, why not try ground covers instead? Ground covers are low-growing plants that spread quickly and cover large areas of ground, reducing the need for mowing, overseeding and watering.
\n\n\n\nAs with any other plant, make sure that the ground cover you choose fits your needs and preferences. You should make sure it matches your hardiness zone, and that you know all about its characteristics, such as shade tolerance and potential hazards.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of ground covers:
\n\n\n\nExamples of ground covers include:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of ground covers ranges from $10 to $25 per square foot without installation.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3863142192_bea9f90f09_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhile you can use ground covers to give your lawn a similar appeal, they can’t quite replace the natural look and feel of grass. But not all grass types are the same.
\n\n\n\nLow-maintenance grass types can help you save time and money on watering, mowing, and other lawn care. So make sure you do your research to find the one that’s right for you. You can start by checking out our recommended grass types for Asheville.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of a low-maintenance grass type:
\n\n\n\nExamples of low-maintenance grass types:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional grass removal typically costs $1.50 per square foot. Professional lawn seeding typically costs between $0.10 and $0.19 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to keep your plants healthy with minimal effort, you should try mulching. Mulching is an easy and cost-effective way to retain moisture in your plants and protect them from damaging temperatures. It also prevents weeds and improves soil quality.
\n\n\n\nYou can pick between organic and inorganic mulch. As the name suggests, organic mulch is made from natural materials. It decomposes over time and releases nutrients into the soil. On the other hand, inorganic mulch doesn’t provide nutrients for your soil, but you don’t need to worry about it decomposing and replacing it as often as organic mulch.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch needs to be regularly replaced, but it has other advantages:
\n\n\n\nExamples of organic mulch:
\n\n\n\nExamples of inorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Mulching typically costs around $85 per cubic yard. A cubic yard will cover about 100 square feet at three inches deep.
\n\n\n\nIsn’t it a shame for rainwater to go to waste? We think so. If you agree, consider building a rain garden. Rain gardens are essentially basin-formed gardens designed to collect and absorb rainwater, allowing it to filter into the ground instead of running off into storm drains and contributing to water pollution.
\n\n\n\nCaptured rainwater can be used to irrigate your garden or even reduce the amount of runoff that enters local waterways. Plus, rain gardens can be beautiful additions to your landscape, providing habitat for wildlife and reducing erosion.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of rain gardens:
\n\n\n\nWhat you can put in your rain garden:
\n\n\n\nCost: Installing a rain garden yourself costs between $3 to $5 per square foot, depending on the type of plants and materials you use. A typical rain garden is 150 to 400 square feet, so expect to pay between $450 and $2,000. Professional installation ranges from $10 and $15 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"plants](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Xeriscaping-garden.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeremy Levine / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping is another landscaping technique that’s used to save water. Not only can it create a low-maintenance and sustainable garden, but it can also reduce water bills and help conserve natural resources.
\n\n\n\nIf xeriscaping your entire yard feels overwhelming, you can start little by little. You can then gradually convert more areas of your yard to xeriscaping, such as by replacing thirsty plants with drought-resistant ones or installing a drip irrigation system.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nWays you can start xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There are various xeriscaping methods, which vary in cost. On average, xeriscaping may cost between $5 and $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a beautiful landscape, it’s going to be hard to create one without greenery. But on the other hand, that doesn’t mean there’s no room for functional hardscapes, too. To reduce some of your lawn and garden maintenance tasks and make your outdoor space easier to take care of, hardscapes are a great idea.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, hardscaping features can also add value to your home with their aesthetic appeal, and give you a practical place to spend time with loved ones.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nExamples of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There are various hardscaping projects, so it depends on which ones you choose. But you can expect to pay $2,200 to $6,500 for a patio; $3,900 to $10,500 for a deck; $2,100 to $6,000 for a pergola; $1,100 to $7,500 for a water feature; $250 to $2,200 for a fire pit; $60 to $170 per ton for river rocks; and between $3 and $30 per square foot for stone pavers, depending on the type of stone.
\n\n\n\nThe thought of maintaining a beautiful outdoor space can be intimidating. However, you can create an aesthetic outdoor space that’s easier to care for than you’d think.
\n\n\n\nStart by getting some native wildflowers or evergreens and then continue adding low-maintenance features to your landscape over time. When picking plants, make sure you learn about their needs and see which ones are a good fit. Don’t forget to research their important characteristics, such as their shade tolerance, potential hazards, and so forth.
\n\n\n\nAs you already know, no lawn can be completely maintenance-free. If you want help checking off your to-do list tasks, call a lawn care pro in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Joe Wolf / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"11 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Western Carolina","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1789c/lawn-in-asheville.jpg","srcSet":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/107df/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 320w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/293e9/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 500w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/f2cbb/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 800w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1789c/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 960w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/c26c2/lawn-in-asheville.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1dd6e/lawn-in-asheville.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/67b76/lawn-in-asheville.webp 320w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/8df11/lawn-in-asheville.webp 500w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/98a65/lawn-in-asheville.webp 800w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/1dd6e/lawn-in-asheville.webp 960w,\n/static/089ad9b349d414e3f52d78ef11a15a80/3cc96/lawn-in-asheville.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Western Carolina | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Reflect natural beauty in your own yard without being overwhelmed by the maintenance with these low-maintenance landscaping tips for Western Carolina."}}},{"node":{"id":"f8402ea9-7286-5c80-b1b0-2227ee7ade2f","slug":"watering-restrictions-dallas-irving-plano","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/watering-restrictions-dallas-irving-plano/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"},{"id":"f47748ec-2ca2-5e01-9cbd-e56dc7932c0d","name":"Zone 8a","count":3,"path":"/category/zone-8a/"}],"date":"June 18th, 2019","excerpt":"It’s shaping up to be a fantastic 2019 in Texas, at least when it comes to drought. As the year began, more than 95% of the state was NOT in drought, and water levels were at their highest since the early 1990s. It’s certainly a very different picture than it was 10 years ago when […]
\n","content":"\nIt’s shaping up to be a fantastic 2019 in Texas, at least when it comes to drought. As the year began, more than 95% of the state was NOT in drought, and water levels were at their highest since the early 1990s. It’s certainly a very different picture than it was 10 years ago when Texas survived intense drought across much of the state.
\n\n\n\nThat doesn’t mean you can go wild with your sprinklers and water your yard every day. Most local governments learned their lesson in that bad drought — and many cities have watering restrictions that remain in place.
\n\n\n\nTexas was still in that bad drought when the Dallas City Council passed permanent watering restrictions for homes and businesses inside city limits. It was an attempt to be proactive about the water supply. Now years later, it looks like it has helped. And don’t worry too much about those summer days with highs in the triple digits. Lawn care experts say your grass only needs a long drink of water every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nEveryone may turn on the sprinklers twice a week in Dallas:
\n\n\n\nThe city of Plano also has recommended watering guidelines for 2019, and like Dallas, it’s a twice-weekly schedule:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/JTAt7d0c4LxAakTsSgtYmoAcfZFW1ZPb7bDHUKNRijP3yMu8Aw-EJg31U69zOrwzBG_ZmM-3_4-jdlnSiuOglZEEHC7_1QJKNt66s2oMyFPe6eydX3SXWzJqiUwIEKOvCw\")
In the City of Irving:
\n\n\n\nThe city also recommends planting low-maintenance, drought-resistant plants for your yard. Native flowers like hibiscus and verbena are easy to care for and need little watering. It’s also helpful if you install plumbing fixtures and appliances that conserve water.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in another city in the Metroplex that isn’t mentioned here, it’s pretty easy to search your city or county government’s website for watering restrictions. The restrictions are likely to be similar to the ones enacted by Dallas, Plano, and Irving. In a drought-prone state like Texas, we’re all in it together — and every drop of water counts.
\n\n\n\nDo you want to know more about lawn care in the DFW? Visit our Dallas, TX lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
\n","title":"Watering Restrictions in Dallas, Irving and Plano","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.585139318885449,"src":"/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/1789c/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/107df/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg 320w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/293e9/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg 500w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/f2cbb/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg 800w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/1789c/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg 960w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/a2a79/sprinkler-1024x646.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/1dd6e/sprinkler-1024x646.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/67b76/sprinkler-1024x646.webp 320w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/8df11/sprinkler-1024x646.webp 500w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/98a65/sprinkler-1024x646.webp 800w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/1dd6e/sprinkler-1024x646.webp 960w,\n/static/d3934d26de4455ac3471f7ebe1c836a5/7aa54/sprinkler-1024x646.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Watering Restrictions in Dallas, Irving and Plano | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Water is a precious resource in DFW, so local governments are doing their best to protect it. Here's a list of the watering restrictions in DFW."}}},{"node":{"id":"ae49c824-12ea-5ef6-a626-ea96f0e87e12","slug":"lawn-care-the-definitive-guide-to-bermuda-grass","path":"/lawn-care/lawn-care-the-definitive-guide-to-bermuda-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 28th, 2019","excerpt":"An Overview Bermudagrass (Cynodon sactylon) is native to tropical and subtropical countries worldwide. Spanish explorers brought Bermuda grass to the Americas in the 1500’s from the coast of Africa. Exactly when it arrived in mainland America is unclear, but documents from 1807 show that it was already being established as one of the primary grasses […]
\n","content":"\nBermudagrass (Cynodon sactylon) is native to tropical and subtropical countries worldwide. Spanish explorers brought Bermuda grass to the Americas in the 1500’s from the coast of Africa. Exactly when it arrived in mainland America is unclear, but documents from 1807 show that it was already being established as one of the primary grasses in southern states around that time. For that reason, today, Bermuda grass is known as ‘The South’s Grass’.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a perennial warm-season grass. This means that it comes back every year and grows most actively from late spring through hot, humid summer months. Bermudagrass is more sensitive to cold temperatures than warm-season Zoysia grass or cool-season grasses, such as turf-type tall fescue. This lack of cold tolerance prevents its widespread use in the north. Its spread ranges from the Atlantic coast, across the southern states, and into California. Bermuda grass flourishes in sites with full, direct sun and good drainage. It has superior heat, salt, humidity and drought tolerances. Although the majority of Bermuda’s roots stay within 6 inches of the surface, they can reach 6 feet or more in depth.(1) This extensive root system provides more resilience against environmental stresses than other warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a fine-textured turfgrass that spreads by both above-ground stems known as stolons and below-ground stems called rhizomes. It is an extremely drought-hardy, durable, and versatile turfgrass that can be used in many settings. It is relatively quick to establish by seed or sprigs and is most notably known for its superior traffic tolerance and quick ability to heal after damage is done to lawn areas. These facts, combined with its tolerance to low mowing heights, make it the ideal turf for golf courses and athletic fields as well as any other areas that may experience heavy traffic.
\n\n\n\nIn the warmer tropical and subtropical south, during years of average rainfall, Bermuda will retain a beautiful bright green color all year round. Lawns planted in Bermudagrass can attain full lawn coverage in just one year. In fact it is not uncommon for seeded or plugged Bermuda grass lawns to be established within 60-90 days. (Good to note that when a frost occurs, bermuda grass will turn brown and go dormant until temperatures rise again in the Spring and growth resumes.
\n\n\n\nOne of the best characteristics of Bermuda grass is that it can be planted in many forms – from grass seed, sod or grass plugs. The application of Bermudagrass is also numerous, it can be planted for beautiful, durable grass lawns, nutritious and traffic tolerant pastures, sports turf, golf courses, athletic fields, and more.
Common bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers.) varieties often have coarse leaf texture and light green color. However, improvements in common bermudagrass appearance have been achieved through selective breeding efforts, and there are many improved varieties available on the market that have finer leaf texture, a darker color, and an improved blade density. These varieties are most often planted by seed, but some improved varieties are also available as sod (Princess, for example).
Hybrid forms of common Bermudagrass include narrower leaf blade and finer overall texture. ‘Tifdwarf’ is the finest-textured, ‘Tifgreen 328’ is slightly larger, and ‘Tifway 419’ is the largest and is the best of the hybrids for residential use.
As is often true in the horticultural world, a plant’s strongest assets can also be its worst characteristics. Bermudagrass has the fastest growth rate of any of the warm-season grasses. While its aggressive growth rate can make Bermudagrass difficult to contain, it enables the grass to endure heavy use. It recuperates from damage far more quickly than most grasses, and, as a result, is the preferred grass for athletic fields and golf course tee areas and fairways throughout southern regions.
\n\n\n\nThese traits can make bermudagrass one of the worst weeds of all if it encroaches into places where it is not wanted. Roundup will kill stray patches of grass, but recent reports have indicated that the chemical is far more toxic than advertised and should no longer be used. Physical removal of the grass is best. In planting beds it can be controlled by covering the area with ½” compost followed by 5 layers of newspaper or one later of clean cardboard and then shredded mulch. Repeated vinegar and orange oil sprays will also kill it.
\n\n\n\nFor large areas of lawn where you wish to remove established bermudagrass a process known as ‘solarization’ can be used. To solarize your lawn begin by cutting your grass as short as possible. Then thoroughly water the lawn before spreading sheets of UV-inhibitor type plastic over the area you wish to kill. Leave the plastic covering the grass for a minimum of 1 month if you are in a hot climate and up to 3 months if you are in a more temperate zone. This process creates an intensified greenhouse effect that heats the grass up beyond its normal ideal conditions. Over time, a combination of vinegar and orange oil, solarization and later an application of organic compost will rid your areas of unwanted bermudagrass (3).
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Q1M9GL4DivQtsk7_6SXaF5ZOFXkhYwR9wwQjH_VDRcX3NeLfXMR0BLSZq5gc8ITE36KpJbPPbaOpUB4AN6W1ndrNPcbXZep3f0I7AOKOJO1OdTPaV7ohAGV3MfldTD1lrRegQymCnnNSLct2lg\")
Because of its aggressive growth rate, Bermudagrass requires more maintenance than other lawn grass types. A monthly fertilization plan might be needed during peak growth in the late spring. Similarly, it might be necessary to mow twice a week during this period to keep Bermuda at its recommended height of 1” to 1-1/2 inches for residential lawns. Though the grass is drought tolerant, Bermuda will go brown and dormant during periods of extended drought. Give it 1” to 1-1/2 inches of water from rainfall or supplemental irrigation to avoid summer dormancy. (2) Be sure to check with your local municipalities for water restrictions during the summer drought months.
\n\n\n\nWith warm-season grasses, month-by-month lawn care occurs on a different timetable than cool-season northern grasses that peak during fall. Bermuda is best planted in spring, after the final frost, as warm-season grasses come out of dormancy and enter prime growth. Overseeding existing Bermudagrass lawns with additional Bermudagrass seed can also be done at this time.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/EFidnD93mDxdqvl0zjTeMtzUR_iN-GLcWwWhe_9q8Ny8WiPnwnJ-fKdLOMyGR8F1G78RIySG4Hv0zoeA5-n7bY8gfVnfgMpwUNKJlEB-fxXubrm0BEiHXT0khXjtbHpCB2udK562KDFtwL8frQ\")
Bermuda grass grows best when soil pH is between 5.8 and 7.0, but it will tolerate more alkaline conditions.(2) In areas with overly acidic soil, regular applications of lime may be needed to keep pH at optimal levels for phosphorus nutrient availability. A good alternative grass for such areas would be Centipede grass if making amendments is not desirable. Having a soil test performed will reveal if your Bermudagrass lawn needs lime or other soil amendments to thrive.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in the southern United States and your lawn needs call for a durable and wear-resistant warm-season lawn that can withstand both heat and drought, Bermudagrass may be the perfect solution providing you seasons of bright green turf grass.
Sources:
1. Duble, R.L., “Bermudagrass – The Sports Turf of the South,” Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.
2. Patton, A. and Boyd, J., “Choosing a Grass for Arkansas Lawns,” University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension.
\n\n\n\n3. https://www.dirtdoctor.com/garden/Bermudagrass-Common_vq3441.htm
\n\n\n\nStill have questions about lawn care? Check out our lawn care page for more information.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Richard Parker
\n","title":"Lawn Care: The Definitive Guide to Bermuda Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3368146214099217,"src":"/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/1789c/bermuda-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/107df/bermuda-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/293e9/bermuda-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/f2cbb/bermuda-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/1789c/bermuda-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/a2a79/bermuda-grass.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/1dd6e/bermuda-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/67b76/bermuda-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/8df11/bermuda-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/98a65/bermuda-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/1dd6e/bermuda-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/667ef88015083457b86ffebe5d3753d7/7aa54/bermuda-grass.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Care: The Definitive Guide to Bermuda Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"8d4fc8e1-df88-5d3f-b3d3-7fe18bec1c5e","slug":"controlling-the-worst-weeds-in-austin","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/controlling-the-worst-weeds-in-austin/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"Texans fight an uphill battle against the climate to maintain lush, green lawns. While we get wrapped up in mortal combat against scorching heat and epic droughts, another foe wages a battle against us: weeds. Unlike our turf, weeds couldn’t care less when it comes to drought, heat, and neglect. In fact, the conditions that […]
\n","content":"\nTexans fight an uphill battle against the climate to maintain lush, green lawns. While we get wrapped up in mortal combat against scorching heat and epic droughts, another foe wages a battle against us: weeds. Unlike our turf, weeds couldn’t care less when it comes to drought, heat, and neglect. In fact, the conditions that kill the landscapes we love only make them stronger. Once we let down our guard, they sprout and spread. Once these invaders have made landfall, our only hope is to stop them from advancing. Here are some tips for controlling the worst weeds in Austin.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/3xloc5YBo1YwFQ690cX2SCF_KZof84QQvmWZAM91v7RDI1GPttiFZrU2rf1rDaPwe08GSA-k4rEUW3w9f3zKKOP5tEmqgP-sYANnTTb907K-HcjNhZgmMCAGsfIkLgBYkD1Vy9UD\")
The best defense against weeds is a vigorous lawn, since that makes it challenging for weeds to gain traction. Your yard is only as safe as its weakest patch of grass. Weeds are opportunists looking for a bare spot where they can put down roots and establish themselves. A number of weeds are waiting for their chance to pounce, but they tend to leave mowed, fertilized, healthy turf alone. Most weeds won’t withstand regular mowing. Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and Saint Augustinegrass all enjoy Austin’s hot, humid summers and with proper care will form a dense mat that resists the enemy.
\n\n\n\nWhen you see weeds invading your lawn, don’t look the other way. Once you allow a weed to go to seed, your front line is compromised, and you’ll have to spend a season working offense. To avoid this, when you spot a weed poking up through the turf, immediately remove it from the roots. String trimmers, aka “weed whackers” are only a temporary fix because when roots remain in the ground, the weed can pop right back up to fight another day.
\n\n\n\nDrop your weeds in the trash to make sure they don’t make a comeback – some weeds can regenerate if you just cast them aside on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDeveloping a strong knowledge of the weeds you’re fighting will help you defeat them. The main categories of noxious weeds in Austin are broadleaf weeds and grass-like weeds. Each requires different techniques to defeat.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/IsgL9UTVcXYiG-Mh6w7Kc1qCFfvk5PrGkBaWPso3caR8nai1A70zBNtdaTQeYgvqL-rNnn_6t7AP4pHzVcxBI26_lXxaucrFhflVv2smJkk3nS92--Zaph_tgRlfIDSMQcKfj0Qm\")
Dandelions can be either biennial or perennial but usually burst into full bloom in late spring or early summer. The dandelion’s distinctive appearance makes it easy to identify. There are multiple effective ways to win the war against dandelions. The easiest is to mow often before the flowers have gone to seed. Next, pull them up by the roots. Finally, apply a selective weed killer directly to the plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thistle,](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/qHn9KZc9lDtiEA5267GRUtB-oIoQlpfG2Dv6FHv4nF75V7VCMpsrrKzLuQFjg8ZZZ5MYG16qOc-2fTlA_58kcF5FZTyNhc7J8kVM50XYpUzTQvJNBeqlqiMZGnjVbSvmcTtnrpzw\")
Thistles are weeds that can also be either biennial or perennial and can be very tough to fight once established. They can reach a height of several feet and can take up the whole lawn if you let them. Though stubborn, this is one weed that’s easy to control: cut to the ground with a hoe or pull up from the roots. Just remember to bag up the thistle you cut, as they will go to seed wherever they land.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/pyatElKLY5M6EkIRFnfo51BPhVGY4H2Dh69MwmyArT2GulzmGokAtyuHsvYJ5Y7LBtzIarQz9FOp1G9YsbIDdFJ9JEy6KABlmJJDawfXDDaIzJ-vgwmwc8mOyQNqsxZj0hi-2uvU\")
The bane of all homeowners and turf managers, crabgrass is a vigorous weed that thrives under the conditions that kill everything else. It grows flat along the ground, and this low profile allows it to stealthily spread right under the cutting line of mowers. The best way to fight this weed is to apply a pre-emergent weed control treatment at the end of winter before the ground warms.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/iTLOWhTYZYDd_wE23vvq10Pf75B1R4E_1dT7uvhiHpQWB49xqd5jXscCs76jbih_Rv63KujmMW34RzrejlczNuOAexyP44G18srUtvVCJXeViOR1S9pdSUXw4hvpNMeC-YtW3Ozd\")
This warm-season annual grass is tough as nails – mature blades are difficult to cut with a mower if the blades are not razor sharp. Although the first frost of the winter will kill the plants, each plant can produce up to 50,000 seeds. The best method for limiting their expansion is to apply a pre-emergent in the weeks before it sprouts.
\n\n\n\nThe war against weeds is the longest-running battle in human history. Even the most vigilant homeowner finds weeds in their turf from time to time. So keep your eyes peeled and your battle gear handy, because you never know when the weeds will find you.
\n\n\n\nInterested in learning more about gardening and lawn care in Austin? Visit our Austin TX lawn care page.
Your lawn and landscape create the frame for your picture-perfect home. It’s the first thing people see when they drive up to your house, so you want the grass to be greener and neat and trim on your side of the fence. Fortunately, Atlanta’s climate makes it easy to grow a lush, green lawn. We […]
\n","content":"\nYour lawn and landscape create the frame for your picture-perfect home. It’s the first thing people see when they drive up to your house, so you want the grass to be greener and neat and trim on your side of the fence. Fortunately, Atlanta’s climate makes it easy to grow a lush, green lawn. We get nearly 50 inches of rainfall a year, and our temperatures range between 34 and 90 degrees. The mercury rarely drops below freezing, so Atlanta lawns stay green longer than most. Here is your quickstart guide to lawn care in Atlanta.
\n\n\n\nThe fluctuating seasons puts Atlanta in a transitional zone, meaning both warm-season and cool-season grasses will thrive. We recommend a mixture of both. Choosing the right grass type is the first step toward a healthy, well-manicured lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZHNuWfARMcUhgkWrY4Aw9eDm29nUm1hU7cp8NZWN--bm0UNgjuF-0WYWHWLaVRNvfAKhP8XqrSMW9eBR20qT5urgtEMFglHhmmbxgwqQv4_Qx_X_tqPyaAzeW4XF7tMFR7jLQUXZ\")
This warm-season grass stands up well to heavy foot traffic, drought and cold. It’s the most common type of grass for Atlanta lawns, sports fields, and golf courses. Bermudagrass will grow well when planted in sunny areas with high humidity but tends to wilt in the shade.
\n\n\n\nSince it grows quickly, you may have to mow your lawn twice a week during the summer. We recommend mowing this grass to a height of 1 to 1½ inches and giving it 1½ inches of water a week. You may also want to overseed it with tall fescue to add some green color during the winter when Bermudagrass goes dormant.
\n\n\n\nA cool-season grass, this one is a favorite for those of you who love walking barefoot on the lawn. This turf works well by itself or blended with other types such as Bermuda. It resists heat and drought but may need more watering than warm-season varieties.
\n\n\n\nIt does best when planted in shady areas where it will need little maintenance. It doesn’t grow very fast, so it only needs mowing every nine days at a height of 2 to 3 inches. It doesn’t bounce back as quickly as Bermudagrass, so it may need reseeding more often.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass is another low maintenance sod. It doesn’t need much fertilizer and will tolerate some shade. It can stand up to heat, but not drought and may need frequent watering during dry periods. It will remain green all winter, but will not survive repeated frosts.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass grows slowly, so you can get away with mowing once every two weeks to a height on 1½ to 2 inches. You will have to dethatch your lawn in the fall before reseeding. Be careful about which grass types you use for overseeding. Ryegrass will compete with the existing turf, eventually killing the centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/yQ6euhlqlmS_0wDZLjr_dPtUITtJMUl3pTbmDGCDYp8M7hAVgG-9bOSaTL0heiE6ByOLiFFxUmnV4OUUUAXAq5HuiPMC5bYln0r-xfYKBXDPl2cAOVhVngoqnCZeY2Wi4DV1cy6G\")
This tough warm-season turf can stand up to heat and tolerate the cold. It doesn’t need much maintenance and handles pets and kids with ease. Although it’s drought-resistant, Zoysia needs more water during the summer than other warm-season grasses. Its fine texture also makes it perfect for running barefoot across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nZoysia will cover your yard with a dense carpet of grass. This quality means you’ll have to aerate and dethatch in the spring. Mow to a height of 1 to 1 ½ inches to keep it green and weed-free all summer.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third of the height of your grass. If your grass is too short, it is vulnerable to pests and lawn diseases. Most turfs need a weekly mow until late fall when the growth slows down or stops. Consider varying the pattern and direction each time you mow. Otherwise, your grass blades will lean in one direction, making your lawn look unbalanced. After mowing, leave the clippings behind. They will decompose and fertilize your lawn. If you hire a lawn service professional, make sure to remind this person.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sPCP3-iv3M0DLJ1oXkzLccWVSA6S0VCdAAOsf0dCvpOTI1gf4eiHorPsx2nlKwrNbyYDpSJO7z_IiHHBLXOiINZNGEX9MaL1kL_nitlA6Tn15UNKwJiyhhgkQ6v96yUpf2x5tMQV\")
Dull mower blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it. As a result, your lawn will turn brown. With sharp mower blades, you only need to pass over your lawn once instead of several times to get the job done. Most hardware stores can sharpen them for you, or you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Just make sure you disconnect the spark plugs first.
\n\n\n\nYou can adjust the cutting height by raising or lowering the mower’s wheel. Look on the side of your lawnmower and find a knob or lever that adjusts the height for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will start to look tired and worn out after a summer of use. By raking up all debris and thatch and distributing seed, you can replenish some of those bare patches over the fall and winter. A thinning lawn is an invitation for weeds and pests. You can spread seed over the smaller areas by hand, or rent a seed spreader for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe heavy foot traffic over the summer has likely compacted your soil. Poking tiny holes in the lawn, or aerating, gives the grass a chance to take in more moisture and nutrients. It also raises the lawn’s resistance to diseases and pests. Do this in the fall, just before you add fertilizer. Fertilizing the lawn at the end of September will help it make it through the cold winter. Before deciding which fertilizer to use, find out what your lawn needs. You can get a home soil test kit at your local home improvement store. If you prefer, you can mail a sample the extension office at the University of Georgia, and they’ll test the soil for you and recommend a fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIn spite of all the rain that blesses Atlanta, your lawn may need a little more moisture before it goes dormant over the winter. Keep your sprinkler ready until the first frost. A few good soakings will give the roots of the grass the strength it needs to make it through the winter. You also want to make sure the new seeds and fertilizer work their way into the soil. If you want to learn more about local watering restrictions, visit Wikilawn’s Atlanta city page.
Looking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer. You may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too. What Is Compost? Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer.
\n\n\n\nYou may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7siWPz9hIYZNaFizVvrLv1ilgO2v5ZEN6q_jZTkH9LyzmiTKBQ-wplgwMSshwyJel0FpzwSEjtWWWzWiVQY7qEuHWGV0kuQrn-qt3FS5grSQfBs4xY62AB-ltZieVNlrBe1SUz3h\")
Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps and yard waste (grass clippings, raked leaves, and remnants of garden plants) make up most compost. Compost also happens on its own in nature with fallen leaves, twigs, and branches. By adding fruit and vegetable scraps, you put back into the soil the ingredients it needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\nFood products that don’t compost well include tea bags (the tea residue works well but only if you remove the bag) and highly acidic citrus fruits and tomatoes (they may kill the good bacteria that break down the compost). Peelings from other fruits and vegetables are also excellent for the compost bin (remove the small paper stickers on them).
\n\n\n\nWhat you don’t want in your compost? Weeds. The weed seeds will spread and regrow in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLawns are dormant in winter, but it’s still a good time for maintenance. Composting supports the root system during dormancy. The organic matter helps the soil retain water, making it more available to the grass roots. Nutrients that would otherwise wash away, (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), make their way down to the roots. The healthier your lawn’s roots are, the deeper they grow and spread under your yard. This holds the soil together and helps it resist wind and water.
\n\n\n\nWith healthier roots created by composting comes healthier soil. The primary nutrients are joined by micronutrients like zinc, iron, copper, and manganese. The fertilizer you buy doesn’t always have these components. But compost breaks down slowly, so it acts as a slow-release fertilizer. The more diverse the ingredients in the compost, the more different types of nutrients sink into the soil. The decomposed compost (also called humus), will also neutralize both acidic and alkaline soils, creating pH levels that enable your grass to absorb the nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn helps break up compacted soil. But compost creates clusters of particles, called aggregates, for a stronger soil structure. These bundles have air channels and tiny holes that keep in water, nutrients, and air. There are basically three types of soil, and organic matter affects each one in different ways.
\n\n\n\nThis dense, heavy soil can be tough to work with. But when maintained, it’s one of the best soils for lawns and gardens. Adding organic matter like pine bark and finely ground leaves creates better soil structure. It also gets rid of drainage problems and compacted soil. Start with 3 to 6 inches of compost on your topsoil and work it down into the ground about ten inches over time. As the matter decomposes, it improves the quality of clay soil.
\n\n\n\nSandy soil is dry with large, coarse particles and a lot of air pockets, so it doesn’t need aeration. It’s also not ideal for growing things because all that space lets water drain before it can provide moisture to plant roots. Fertilizer is ineffective because it washes away before doing any good. Horticulture Agent Charlotte Glen of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension says, “Because they naturally lack nutrients and cannot store nutrients provided by fertilizers, plants growing in sandy sites often show nutrient deficiency symptoms like stunting, yellow leaves, and sparse flowering or poor fruit production.”
\n\n\n\nThe good news is that sand is lightweight and porous and easy to work with. This type of soil needs 3 to 4 inches of compost as topsoil. Till it deep into the ground. Then, in the future, let grass clippings fall onto the yard when mowing. The clippings add to the compost.
\n\n\n\nThis is the best type of soil for growing plants and grass. It’s a mix of equal parts clay, sand, and silt (sediment deposited by running water). While loamy soil already provides excellent growing conditions, you can improve any soil with compost. Do this once a year to lower its pH to a level that works well with grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/fXTp3fOUPxxEJfrU4ABu64j_Zld8HZGr_VZc6ZpQOmTIkGU2ukwTl22wTLSETZwBt11kHl7TGBemnJ5-skvzmyBYzYT8xgSiYPixheaoIRMEWt_nrohyBSv7zGXMzLbyIKHk1BcF\")
Healthy turf is about 50% air, held in pockets and spaces in the soil. When that soil is compacted, moisture and nutrients don’t filter down to the plant’s roots as well as they should. Compost creates more accommodating surroundings by loosening the soil, creating natural energy.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you know if your soil is compacted?
\n\n\n\nWorking organic matter into the ground is the best way to fight compaction. For extreme cases, you may need to use up to 50% compost. This will also help decompose thatch buildup in the fall. Too much thatch causes the root system under your lawn to choke itself.
\n\n\n\nPerhaps the best perk from composting is how it benefits the environment. By putting your vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and other kitchen scraps in a compost pile, you’re keeping it out of landfills. You also eliminate the need for fertilizing. Make sure the organic matter stays damp, and it will keep insects away, negating the need for insecticide. And the air pockets created in the soil will hold more water, meaning you won’t need to water as often.
\n\n\n\nComposting is a win-win in many ways, but poor quality soil with too much clay or sand needs a little more work. After spreading more than an inch of compost over the yard, spray the grass blades with liquid nitrogen to speed up decomposition. Healthy lawns take some work but in the long run, are worth it!
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: normanack, CC 2.0
\n","title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.336116910229645,"src":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/107df/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/293e9/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/f2cbb/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/356ef/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/67b76/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/8df11/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/98a65/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/93f70/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"a07bc1c4-b053-5fa1-a782-1d07cda67165","slug":"phoenix-watering-guide-conserving-water","path":"/lawn-care/az/phoenix/phoenix-watering-guide-conserving-water/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"90f74182-5f0d-5dd3-8d32-576a5a21d01d","name":"Phoenix","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/phoenix/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Phoenix, AZ is no stranger to tumultuous droughts, especially during summer and spring seasons. The conservation of water is especially important in this area to support local guidelines in year-long drought protections. While a green lawn may seem unattainable here, there are watering techniques that make grass very efficient in conserving water with not very […]
\n","content":"\nPhoenix, AZ is no stranger to tumultuous droughts, especially during summer and spring seasons. The conservation of water is especially important in this area to support local guidelines in year-long drought protections. While a green lawn may seem unattainable here, there are watering techniques that make grass very efficient in conserving water with not very much water at all. Here are some tips on achieving that luscious lawn during drought season.
\n\n\n\nWatering a lawn is most efficient when wind speeds and evaporation are minimized. The time of day that this usually aligns with is in the morning when the sun is rising and at night time. Watering at night is slightly more risky than watering in the morning. However, if night time fits your schedule better, you will just want to keep a closer eye on how much water the grass is getting. It is easier to over water a lawn when the sun isn’t helping to soak up excess water.
\n\n\n\nUnderstand that with different weather, a watering schedule will change from week to week. If the weather is cold or windy, it is best to not water as much that day. In general, although it varies with different grass types, a lawn should receive about an inch of water each week.
If the goal is to have a green lawn the course of action has to be to train roots to grow deep. You do this by watering deep and infrequently. When you water, whether in the morning or at night, the grass should have water trickle to about ten inches deep. To test this, you can use a screwdriver about an hour after watering to see how deep the soil will allow it to go. If it is around the 10-inch range then you are watering properly. If it is not then you need to water a little more.
\n\n\n\nBermuda grass is a great option for Phoenix homes. It is drought tolerant and resistant to traffic and other stresses. This is a warm-season grass and will go dormant during the winter. To maintain green all year you can overseed with R
Midiron is another grass type that thrives in Phoenix for its drought tolerance and resistance to traffic. This lawn requires very low maintenance and like Bermuda grass needs about an inch of water every week during peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nIrrigation systems take the sweat out of consistently watering the lawn. They are reliable and mostly last very long. Timers allow for the homeowner to designate how much water the lawn receives and when it receives it. Most of human error can be taken out through one of these systems.
\n\n\n\nDrip Irrigation has been coined as the most efficient form of irrigation. The Drip systems are incorporated by the base of the grass and or plants. The water drips directly into the base of the grass minimizing runoff and evaporation. This type of system works really well in a desert environment. Sometimes soil becomes overly dry and when it is watered there becomes a flux of runoff. If you’re looking for the best conservation of water, this is it. This system is more geared towards smaller lawns.
\n\n\n\nSprinklers offer a wider coverage than drip irrigation and are a very popular choice for residential properties. Automatic sprinklers will come with a timer that can be adjusted. These should be watched closely after instillation to ensure there is not runoff water. If runoff occurs change the settings to smaller durations of watering time. If used correctly these can be efficient for water conservation.
\n\n\n\nIn any region, residents should aim to plant plants that are native to the area. For Phoenix especially, you will want to plants plants that do not rely on much additional water. Plants like Cacti, Succulents and native wildflowers do really well in this climate and may not even need any extra water. If you are planting any trees remember that shaded areas of the lawn do not need as much water as exposed sections of the lawn.
\n\n\n\nRead more: 5 Native Plants for Easy Gardening in Phoenix, AZ
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care advice? Visit our Phoenix, AZ lawn care page for a list of pros and additional lawn care tips.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Dean Terasaki
\n","title":"The #1 2019 Phoenix Watering Guide: Conserving Water","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4981273408239701,"src":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/f2cbb/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg","srcSet":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/107df/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 320w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/293e9/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 500w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/f2cbb/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/98a65/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/67b76/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 320w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/8df11/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 500w,\n/static/26235da5ac35bded298c14943bb1d15d/98a65/phoenix-lawn-watering-guidelines.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The #1 2019 Phoenix Watering Guide: Conserving Water | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"8163e4ac-da46-5939-9869-d4112710a127","slug":"post-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/post-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Home is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent […]
\n","content":"\nHome is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent herbicide to help you get rid of it.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergent herbicides is when weeds are young and actively growing. This is when they are most vulnerable to the active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nTime of Year: Applying in the fall or late spring is best. It is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during these times of year. Perennial weeds with deep root systems are best treated in the early spring. Homeowners should be aware that herbicides are most effective on weeds that are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nTemperature: Apply post-emergent weed control when the air temperature is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil temperature is higher than 55 degrees. You can purchase a soil thermometer online or at your local garden supply store for less than $10 to check the soil temperature.
\n\n\n![\"woman](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Weed-killer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: karenfoleyphotography / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhen Not to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides before rain? Read the product label to determine how soon a treated area can be exposed to water. Some herbicides require water to be activated and kill the plant. On the contrary, rain or watering can render other herbicide products ineffective. Instead of activating ingredients, the water can wash them away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRefrain from mowing the lawn about three days before and after using herbicides so weeds can grow enough to absorb the chemicals. Be sure to protect yourself, your family, and your pets. Wear the proper clothing and keep children and pets away from the treated area until it is dry.
\n\n\n\nProtective Apparel to Wear While Applying Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nThis method allows you to target weeds specifically, not your grass or surrounding plants. It’s a good option when there is not a large infestation and/or when you’re using non-selective herbicides that can kill plants other than weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: Read the label and combine the post-emergent herbicide with water (and a surfactant, if needed) as instructed. A surfactant increases the effectiveness of herbicides by helping the chemicals absorb into the weeds better. If the herbicide does not have a built-in surfactant, the label will inform you that you must add it.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply Spot Treatments: With your mixture, spray each weed individually and thoroughly. Do your best not to get herbicide on the surrounding grass and plants, especially if you’re using a non-selective formula.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you have many weeds that have taken over your yard, a blanket treatment will allow you to treat the area more efficiently than spot treatments.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: You can use a liquid post-emergent or granular post-emergent herbicide. Mix the liquid product with water as per the label’s instructions. Use a sprayer to apply. For granules, apply using a granular spreader.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply a Blanket Treatment: Go back and forth over the entire lawn with the sprayer or spreader, applying the herbicide evenly. For granules, it will take about half an inch of water for the herbicide to be activated, so be sure to water your lawn after application.
\n\n\n\nFor any post-emergent treatments, reapply as per the product’s label to maintain weed control.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are used to treat weeds post-growth or after they are sprouting and growing.
\n\n\n\nIf you get to the weeds before they sprout, a pre-emergent herbicide can be used to prevent the weed seeds from germinating in the first place.
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr is a chemical that acts as both a pre and post-emergent herbicide, preventing weeds from germinating and killing them after they are actively growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike pre-emergent herbicides that target weed seeds, post-emergent herbicides attack plant parts, like stems, leaves, and the plant’s root system. Not all post-emergent weed killers work the same way. There are two types: contact-based and systemic.
\n\n\n\nContact-Based Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide kills only the plant parts it comes into contact with. It may take several applications. Contact-based herbicide applications typically only target the parts of plants above ground, like the weed’s foliage. It can kill the targeted parts of the plant quickly.
\n\n\n\nSystemic Post-Emergent Herbicides: Systemic herbicides kill weeds completely, even if the herbicide only comes into contact with part of the plant. The chemicals are absorbed and travel throughout the entire plant, attacking its vascular system. This method allows the active ingredients to reach and kill different parts of the plant, like the stems, leaves, and root system, killing the pesky weed.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to know that not all herbicides work on all weeds. There are both selective and non-selective post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSelective Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide targets specific weeds without harming other plants. Selective products list on their labels whether they kill grassy weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass, or broadleaf weeds, like chickweed and dandelions. You must accurately identify the weed in your yard to choose the right selective herbicide.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective Post-Emergent Herbicides: These herbicides kill all plants they touch, so a sprayer is usually used to apply non-selective herbicides to give weeds a targeted spot treatment that affects the weeds and not other plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMake sure you are correctly identifying the weeds in your yard. Certain weed killers are for specific weeds and may be ineffective on other types of weeds. The type of herbicide you choose should also be labeled for use on your turfgrass type. Otherwise, it may kill your grass along with the weeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common active ingredients in post-emergent herbicides, along with the weeds they kill and the grass types they’re safe for.
\n\n\n\nGlyphosate (Roundup):
\n\n\n\nImazaquin (Image):
\n\n\n\nForamsulfuron (Revolver):
\n\n\n\nSulfentrazone (Dismiss):
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed herbicides are pre-emergent and post-emergent products that also contain fertilizer. Several granular herbicides come with fertilizers. Make sure you are getting the weed and feed product that is best for your grass.
\n\n\n\nBut be aware of when it is best to apply the herbicide and when it is best to fertilize your grass. Because the two may not coincide, weed and feed products can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNo, they do not kill weeds that have already sprouted. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIndaziflam provides pre-emergence control for goosegrass. Fenoxaprop is a post-emergence for goosegrass. The name-brand product Dismiss also inhibits the growth of goosegrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a selective pre-emergence herbicide that can be used on most cool and warm-season grass types. Halosulfuron and sulfentrazone are post-emergent chemicals for use on most cool and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some DIY pet-safe weed killers. Some are non-toxic to humans and pets, like a salt solution or boiling water. A mixture of borax and water is considered a less harmful natural weed killer; borax is toxic in its concentrated form.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best way to treat lawn weeds is to prevent them before they occur with appropriate lawn care. This includes treating your lawn for diseases, providing the correct amounts of water and fertilizer at the recommended intervals, and mowing the lawn at advised heights.
\n\n\n\nThe next step is to catch weeds before you see them by treating them with a pre-emergent herbicide. But if you don’t have that kind of foresight and end up with weeds in your lawn, you can use post-emergent herbicides to kill them.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, you can treat weeds yourself using products from your local home improvement store or Amazon. But it can be a lot of work, especially if you end up having to hand-pull a yard full of weeds. If you’d rather leave your lawn care needs to professionals, we can connect you with lawn care pros in your area who can help with weed control and other lawn maintenance, such as mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Mihajlo Maricic / Canva Pro / License
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