![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass-2.jpg\")
There are only a handful of strict watering restrictions in Charlotte, N.C., but there are some common-sense measures you can take at any time to reduce the amount of water you use.
\n","content":"\nNorth Carolina is blessed with short, mild winters offset by long months of heat and humidity. That hot weather comes with a price. Summers with low levels of rainfall can put the state and county at a bit of a deficit, and remind us of the importance of conservation. There are only a handful of strict watering restrictions in Charlotte, N.C., but there are some common-sense measures you can take to reduce the amount of water you use.
\n\n\n\nThe City of Charlotte lists watering tips to help lighten the irrigation load in the city. These include only watering 1 inch per week, (that’s really all your lawn needs!) and controlling water-hogging weeds. The city also recommends using drip irrigation to apply water to the roots of your trees and using a rain sensor to avoid unnecessary watering. You can also save water by mulching planting beds, and only watering in the pre-dawn hours.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it’s not enforced, spray irrigation should always occur between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. and should follow an odd/even pattern. That means odd addresses can water on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday and even addresses water on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. Handheld watering with a container or hose is OK anytime, as is car washing and filling swimming pools.
\n\n\n\nDuring this first level of drought conservation, the same odd/even schedule seen in normal conditions becomes mandatory for spray irrigation. But, irrigating by hand, car-washing and pool filling is still allowed at any time.
\n\n\n\nUnder moderate drought conditions, spray irrigation becomes restricted to two days per week. Odd addresses may water on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. Even addresses are limited to Wednesdays and Fridays from 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. Handheld watering, car washing, and pool filling are still allowed at any time.
\n\n\n\nDuring a severe drought, spray irrigation is still allowed on two days of the week, on an odd/even basis, but the hours become restricted. Odd addresses may water on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m., and even addresses may water on Wednesdays and Fridays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Watering with a hand-held tool is OK between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. Car-washing is allowed only on specific days: odd addresses on Saturdays and even addresses on Sundays. The city prohibits the filling of swimming pools, but you can top them off to a maximum of 12 inches per week.
\n\n\n\nUnder extreme drought conditions, the city restricts spray irrigation to one day per week. Odd addresses may water Tuesday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and even addresses Wednesday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Hand-held watering is still allowed from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. on any day. Car washing is only allowed on weekends, odd addresses on Saturday and even addresses on Sunday. Filling and topping off of pools under these levels is a no-no.
\n\n\n\nThis level of drought is extremely rare in North Carolina. When the water supply is this low, spray irrigation is no longer permitted. Neither is car washing or filling or topping off swimming pools. It’s still OK to water by hand any day from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m.
\n\n\n\nIt’s always a good idea to practice water conservation, but if you’re not sure of the current restriction, you can always check the North Carolina Drought Monitor. Remember, the watering restrictions in Charlotte are not a punishment, but rather an individual action we all take to contribute to the greater good of our neighbors across the state. Responsible water use benefits the community at large. Want to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
It would be a shame to have a lawn that doesn’t match the beauty and extraordinary atmosphere of Western Carolina’s wildlife and waterfalls. But not every grass type is the same. If you’re in the market for a lush, green lawn, consider planting one of these 4 grasses that thrive here. In this article: 4 […]
\n","content":"\nIt would be a shame to have a lawn that doesn’t match the beauty and extraordinary atmosphere of Western Carolina’s wildlife and waterfalls. But not every grass type is the same. If you’re in the market for a lush, green lawn, consider planting one of these 4 grasses that thrive here.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThere are two kinds of grasses:
\n\n\n\nGiven Western Carolina’s temperate climate, both work well, but cool-season grasses are a slightly better option. Let’s explore some popular cool-season grass options.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is popular thanks to its picturesque, blue-green turf. It’s a dense grass that can withstand foot traffic, especially during the colder months. While heat may pose some challenges for the grass, it can repair itself if it becomes damaged. It can also withstand drought for some time until it goes dormant.
\n\n\n\nHowever, heat isn’t the only problem your Kentucky bluegrass turf may face. Other conditions that can be problematic include shade, diseases, pests, and thatch. Thus, it’s often mixed with other, more resistant grass types to make it more durable.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
Spreads by: Rhizomes (underground stems)
Shade tolerance: Tolerates partial shade but prefers full sun
Drought tolerance: High; but long periods of drought will lead to dormancy
Foot traffic tolerance: High in colder weather, lower in warmer seasons
Maintenance needs: Provide an inch of water weekly; mow every 5 to 7 days; fertilize 1 to 3 times a year
Mowing height: 2.5 to 3.5 inches
Potential for disease: Moderate to high; susceptible to diseases such as necrotic ring spots and rusts
![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nOur moderate summers and mild winters are the perfect conditions for perennial ryegrass, a bright green, tall grass that can be grown quickly from seed. Once it’s grown in, the grass can handle cold weather, stand up to foot traffic, and make less thatch than other types of grass.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is frequently mixed with other grasses to take advantage of its fast-growing, resistant qualities. But take note that you’ll need to mow it frequently. Additionally, this grass doesn’t self-repair and doesn’t stand up well to shade, excessive heat, drought, or fungal diseases.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
Spreads by: Bunches
Shade tolerance: Moderate
Drought tolerance: Low to moderate
Foot traffic tolerance: High
Maintenance needs: Mow and water frequently; fertilize every 4 to 6 weeks
Mowing height: 2.5 to 3.5 inches, depending on species, weather, and intended use; you can cut even shorter, but very short heights need a reel mower
Potential for disease: High, including brown patch, red thread, and rust
![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to say goodbye to your green lawn in the winter, look no further. Turf-type tall fescue can form a thick, medium-to-dark green turf that will last all year. It’s resistant to cold as well as shade, heat, drought, and foot traffic, all while being low-maintenance and relatively fast-growing. It’s also a great option for mixing with other grass types to give your lawn more resilience.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it’s resistant, turf-type tall fescue can’t self-repair, so be prepared to overseed any bare spots. It will also need frequent mowing.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
Spreads by: Bunches, occasionally rhizomes
Shade tolerance: Moderate
Drought tolerance: Very high
Foot traffic tolerance: High
Maintenance needs: Best to mow weekly; requires minimal fertilization; water as needed or your lawn will go dormant
Mowing height: 3 to 4 inches
Potential for disease: Low
![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Festuca_arundinacea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bildoj / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is a broad name given to a variety of fescue grasses that differ in maintenance needs, density, germination times, and so forth. However, they’re all distinguished by their fine, thin blades that form a versatile, blue-green turf. Unlike other grass types, fine fescue grows in partial shade as well as drought (although drought may cause dormancy).
\n\n\n\nBe careful, though. Too much fertilizer can cause high thatch levels. While a little thatch is good, too much can choke the lawn and keep the soil and roots from getting oxygen and moisture. Overfertilization carries other hazards as well, so if you need to fertilize, follow instructions and stick to the amount you need. Moreover, take note that fine fescue isn’t the best fit for foot traffic and is susceptible to diseases.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
Spreads by: Depends on the variant; most variants grow in bunches, but creeping red fescue uses rhizomes
Shade tolerance: High
Drought tolerance: High; may go dormant
Foot traffic tolerance: Low
Maintenance needs: Mow every 2 to 3 weeks until growth slows in the summer; fertilize 2 to 4 times a year; aerate once a year
Mowing height: 2.5 to 4 inches; the grass is slow-growing, so taller heights may be preferable
Potential for disease: Moderate
If you want to enjoy time outside with family and friends, you may want a durable grass like Kentucky bluegrass. It’s mainly resistant to foot traffic during cooler months. If damaged, it can self-repair.
Your other options are turf-type tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, which can’t self-repair but can handle foot traffic all year.
The best time to overseed cool-season grasses is in early fall. You want to give your grass at least 45 days to grow before the first frost hits. The risk of frost in Western Carolina begins at the beginning of October, so it’s best to overseed before mid-August.
Although Western Carolina is generally a cool place, it does get warm in the summer. If you want to create a shady lawn oasis, make sure you plant fine-leaf fescue. You can get a fine-leaf fescue and turf-type tall fescue mix to get the best out of both grass types.
If you want to care for your lawn as little as possible, either tall fescue or fine-leaf fescue should be a good fit.
You chose the right grass type, but what’s next? Once you sow your grass, you want to make sure that you give your lawn the right care all year round. This includes cleaning, dethatching, aerating, overseeding, and fertilizing, among many other tasks that are a necessity for every backyard.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re the type who enjoys spending time on your lawn more than working on it, consider creating a low-maintenance landscape. Not only can this mean planting a low-maintenance type of grass, but it can also mean using xeriscaping, hardscaping, planting easy-care plants, and other low-maintenance tips and techniques.
\n\n\n\nStill feeling overwhelmed? Consider hiring a professional lawn care service to take care of your lawn for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Joe Wolf / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
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\n","content":"\nThe things that make Charlotte a beautiful place to live — short, mild winters and long months of hot, humid weather — make it a haven for insects. If you haven’t encountered any of these pesky interlopers yet, chances are you will at some point. Here’s a list of the worst backyard pests in Charlotte, N.C., and how to deal with them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/BLU_yMhW80SMMI1oRONPvyLPmrRvT25vN4tePCqNjbmnM15jryrQIXtUr_Xz0gChposzndRdYhJLTLYsWz_9ybOVTck2pS4zD9wWqulRU3nW1tQZL8V9P6JwK7od8LVUTaiSkaza\")
These little suckers attach themselves to the undersides of the leaves of herbaceous and woody plants and suck the life out of them. The easiest way to detect aphids is to examine the bottoms of leaves from time to time. If you see a plant looking unusually wilted or developing strangely shaped or colored new leaves, the aphids have invaded. It’s possible to treat aphids without chemicals, by crushing them, spraying them with water from a hose, or treating them with neem oil.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll first see these pests gathering in late spring, forming small bags that resemble upside-down ice cream cones. Conifers are the most susceptible trees. The sooner you notice them, the better. You can treat with a biological, nontoxic pesticide, Bacillus thuringiensis, or BT, but only when the worms are young and feeding. Spinosad is your next line of defense, effective on the adult worms and also low in toxicity. Whatever you do, don’t ignore the problem, because it will only get worse the following year.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_gfirmzWi6t0nx5-2kpUgsrgLUbSTri7lPAbERHMSOpoxC6I1fpWrG0fSZ-G3zfLiBoLJsqdwtQKDL91eizRApL2hpt-wTubVRzySXRcMDMvtGyadKJA6haLiOaKsHJJcbXJ-M0b\")
Nothing ruins a good time in the yard faster than fire ants. These inconsiderate invaders do great damage to the lawn and deliver nasty bites that you won’t soon forget. There are many control methods, from treating mounds with boiling water to drenching them with insecticide. One of the most effective techniques is the two-step method, which can reduce the population by 80 to 90 percent. This involves spreading a bait over your yard in the early part of fall. The ants will take this back to their nest where it will kill the queen. The second step involves treating individual mounds with a granule or dust insecticide.
\n\n\n\nWhile mosquitoes don’t do any damage to the lawn, they can ruin a backyard party. They’re also the deadliest creature on the planet! The best way to take care of this pest is to prevent them from breeding in the first place. Make sure there is absolutely no standing water anywhere in the yard. If you have a birdbath, replace the water every few days, and if you have a pond or water feature, treat it with non-toxic mosquito dunks every couple of weeks.
\n\n\n\nPlanting fragrant plants like mint, lavender, geraniums. and rosemary around decks and patios can help to repel these bloodsuckers. If all else fails, installing oscillating deck fans can help to at least keep these slow-flying pests at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/8-cnXREv09d7KZnxV_WpM4iROBuk1IaRkCzYF-hehaPeXl15-Re-j9oO5bkUIdF6jDjmSalXZxthOUIDPV7vqq7WAIOai7shYz5OzNysxIZ5RuQ3GdD_mE5xyldYhOV3hGJwhOg4\")
When you begin to see inexplicable brown spots on an otherwise healthy lawn, you can be almost certain that a grub is to blame. If you suspect you have a grub issue, try to lift up a piece of affected turf. If it rolls up and seems to lack roots, then you know you have grubs. To avoid using chemicals on your lawn, use milky spore, nematodes, or neem oil to kill the grubs in the soil. Remember, the healthier your lawn is, the more difficult it is for grubs to make a dent in it. Mow consistently and make sure you irrigate the right amount.
\n\n\n\nNo matter what pests you’re dealing with, prevention and early detection are the best defenses you can mount against them. Treating an all-out infestation will always be more difficult and time-consuming. So keep your eyes open and do your best to defeat the worst pests before they become problematic.
\n\n\n\nWant to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\nJay Keaton is a lawn care specialist who focuses on organic pest control. His yard is filled with chrysanthemums, basil, borage, marigolds and other plants that repel bugs.
Gardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these […]
\n","content":"\nGardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these plants alive, choose native plants for Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nNative plants have the upper hand because they evolved to thrive in North Carolina. They provide excellent habitat and forage for pollinators and wildlife. Best of all, they need little care compared to their invasive counterparts. Here are a few of the best native plants for Charlotte, N.C.
\n\n\n\nA local, well-adapted to forests and riverbanks, cardinal flower is a showy native that can grow in the sun and shade. This beautiful perennial can grow from one to six feet tall. While it doesn’t need much water, it prefers slightly moist soil. Blooming from May until October, you’ll see lots of hummingbirds stop by to feast on the nectar.
\n\n\n\nThis native flower is a primary food source for monarch butterflies. This variety of milkweed has bright orange blooms that last from May to August. It thrives best in full sun and dry soil, requiring almost no maintenance to flourish.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rBbq0WF4wWvvYwX5TvdFYCNWhhcn72IvOsFDTENKJvS1cheazSie18on_zi-V6DgzlcHiDvp0V2DBN8pip9pQzGlyjPSYrfnJqQ0BuNJ1RWTGheuHOfDLDXLUD6Mge_elInNec9m\")
This mountain native loves nothing more than sunshine and well-drained soil. From May to June, large spires of yellow flowers adorn the top of this plant’s branches. It’s great for adding color and height to the edges of a garden. Standing three to six feet tall, this is a tall perennial that will steal the show with early spring blooms.
\n\n\n\nThe blue blooms of the dwarf crested iris are great if you’re looking for flowers to plant in shaded areas. Standing less than a foot tall, this miniature blooms from March to May, offering bursts of color and food for hummingbirds in early spring.
\n\n\n\nThis small shrub features long, arching branches and bright foliage. It blooms with striking clusters of purple berries in fall and winter, providing food for wildlife. Usually reaching heights of three to five feet, beautyberry performs best in part shade. This makes it an ideal understory shrub or edge planting. The beautyberry requires little maintenance and will provide color when most of your other plants are dormant.
\n\n\n\nBeloved by gardeners and butterflies alike, buttonbush is a multistemmed shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall. The round white or pink flowers that dangle from the tips of the branches are irresistible to butterflies. Well suited for shade and part shade, this is another excellent understory plant that performs well on the edge of a property.
\n\n\n\nThis is only a taste of the many species native to our area. Hopefully, it can stimulate your imagination about the landscape possibilities when you choose native plants to Charlotte. Remember, the more native your landscape, the more time you can spend enjoying it, rather than maintaining it.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte, NC lawn care page.
If you were a weed, wouldn’t you want to make Charlotte your home? These uninvited guests, however, get in the way of us keeping lawns beautiful.
\n","content":"\nYou really can’t blame them: If you were a weed, wouldn’t you want to make Charlotte your home? These uninvited guests, however, get in the way of us keeping lawns beautiful.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to have your yard become a weedy welcome mat, the key is to spot them early and take care of weeds as they come up. Here’s a guide for controlling the worst weeds in Charlotte.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lrBgC06YV-YqYYN7yRqNSriNT1OML-uP_RX86xvcR6G-OFtk8wmECKyCgD2_rNu3YxygamloDHM7HEcBMrPw4_ublc1NsqStMB4bElrsOI4PGVzqqx0Riz1nLQgXUeOk3ZHzzyCl\")
This perennial plant once was a standard part of grass seed mixes. But once chemical herbicides were introduced after World War II, clover was redefined as a weed by the industry. Clover will come back year after year, left unchecked. Winter frost doesn’t slow it down one bit, either. Clover likes nothing better than poorly fertilized grass because it has the upper hand. To beat this persistent weed, start by fertilizing in the spring and fall to give your lawn an advantage. Keep the grass mowed high — 3 inches or taller — to give it an edge over the clover. The last resort is using a broadleaf herbicide to spot-treat the clover, But only do this if your efforts to have the grass overpower the clover fail.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/chickweed-flowers-stellaria-media-flickr-hedera-baltica-1024x971.jpg\")
This annual winter weed will creep in beginning in early fall and will persist until spring. Left unchecked, it can spread into large patches. The organic way to control chickweed is to pull up any of the shallow-rooted plants as they come up. You’ll then need to aerate and reseed to fill in any of the gaps in the turf left behind. Some pre-emergent treatments will kill chickweed when applied in the early spring, and post-emergents will work in the fall. Mow often to prevent these plants from going to seed, at which point a pre-emergent may be the best choice.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/lDDV_6uILf08I912SlAdce9KrL9TB5G20KhnSxqTrVeD5KFxpWF3D5ofAvkpF6OmhBahCvMG_6K9DCCpCfBFrJ5k9AmkPYIWspIhD2OYQB3Hl-ok5MzUrxMnU8q5Sgp0kL9zePK4\")
Hairy bittercress may sound like an ingredient in a Harry Potter spell but will feel like a curse if you ever try to pull it up by the roots. This annual winter weed will send small explosions of seeds in all directions. During winter and spring, go on a bittercress patrol a couple of times a week and pull any emerging plants. Once the seeds start popping, you will have a much bigger problem the following year. Frequent mowings can keep this pesky weed in check, but a severe infestation calls for broadleaf herbicide treatment.
\n\n\n\nFrom late fall to spring, this opportunistic weed loves to invade patchy lawns in shady spots. Begin surveying the yard in late summer to scope out any of the telltale purple leaves as it begins to emerge. Hand weed any henbit you find in these first weeks of emergence, and you should be well-positioned to win the battle. Treat any heavy infestations with a pre-emergent in the fall.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/uT_V7ugO7nsiFbU1dxk5CIMFlSXuwIhWQCVUaEfnw50Pfk6NYM2KJyXpzuYXpXQNKkbK0ZifGGcmb4FGEaPhkzlmhQzug9s3WYirdEi205rPn6XsbuiGvK2L9VNb7gN65jtLlWce\")
Often mistaken for henbit, this relative of mint is one of the most aggressive lawn weeds around. If you’re able to spot it early and pull it up by the roots, you’ll be in good shape, but if you have an infestation, you’re in trouble. A pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide may be the only way to take care of a bad case of purple deadnettle.
\n\n\n\nBear in mind that for each of these weeds and countless others, the best offense is a good defense. Aerating, mowing properly, watering and fertilizing at the right times, helps in controlling the worst weeds in Charlotte. Remember, the more energy you put into keeping the lawn healthy and happy, the less time you will spend fighting off weeds.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
There’s so much to do in Charlotte that it’s easy to put off maintenance on that patch of greenery on your property — your lawn. However, it’s important to take a moment away from enjoying the good life to keep it in tip-top shape. The following is a short guide to lawn mowing in Charlotte. […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s so much to do in Charlotte that it’s easy to put off maintenance on that patch of greenery on your property — your lawn. However, it’s important to take a moment away from enjoying the good life to keep it in tip-top shape. The following is a short guide to lawn mowing in Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a dominant type of grass in the Piedmont — the wide plateau of rolling hills in which Charlotte lies. Like all cool-season grasses that are grown in Charlotte, it grows most actively in spring and fall and can go dormant and brown in the summer. Some warm-season grasses are also grown in Charlotte, and they have their peak growing season in the summer.
\n\n\n\nSo depending on your grass type, you either need to back off your mowing schedule (for cool-season grasses) or step it up (for warm-season grasses) during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of when you mow, to help support the long-term health of your turf, set your mower blades at the highest recommended setting for your turn type. In the case of tall fescue, that’s 2½ to 3½ inches. Longer blades of grass can make the most of the sunlight to build deep roots, which will ensure a healthier, more drought-resistant lawn.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third off the length of your grass at one time. If you’ve let things go a little wild, increase the frequency of your mows to gradually cut it down to the size you desire, rather than cutting off all the length at once. Additionally, you should keep your mower blades sharp so that they are cutting the grass instead of tearing it.
\n\n\n\nRather than bagging up grass clippings, allow the mower to spread them out across your yard. They will slowly release nutrients back into the soil, and can reduce your need for fertilization. Just make sure you only mow when the lawn is dry to prevent clumping. Clumps of grass can smother grass and leave yellow spots.
\n\n\n\nCharlotte lawns thrive best when given an inch of water per week. Programming your irrigation to deposit an inch per week is ideal, preferably just before dawn. This reduces evaporation, allows the maximum moisture penetration into the soil and reduces the vulnerability to fungus and disease that can come when grass is left wet overnight. A rain sensor can help you make sure that you don’t waste water irrigating after a heavy rainfall, and can also help keep you from overwatering. One deep watering is far superior to several shallow waterings. Watering deeply encourages the deep growth of roots, which ensures a healthier lawn overall.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is tall fescue, don’t let it dry out and die during its summer dormancy. Keep up your watering schedule especially if the summer has an extended hot and dry period.
If you are manually watering with a sprinkler, wait until your lawn is thirst to water. You can tell by observing the blades of grass– if they are folding or curling slightly, they are dehydrated. Thirsty grass also takes on a slightly bluish cast and footprints will remain visible for a minute or so. Watering at this point is perfect for preventing damage and maintaining perfect lawn health.
Applying fertilizer in the heat of the season can potentially burn the turf. Save fertilizer application for spring and fall, and stop applying fertilizer at least a month in advance of hot weather.
\n\n\n\nDo you have questions about lawn care in Charlotte? Be sure to check out our Charlotte, N.C., lawn care page.
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