![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Dethatcher.jpg\")
Montana is nicknamed “The Last Best Place” for its natural, rugged terrain. It is home to some of the last uninhabited areas in North America, and every year, residents expand further into its remote regions, increasing populations across the wild landscapes and the chances of wildfires. Wildfire activity continues to increase thanks to Montana’s semi-arid […]
\n","content":"\nMontana is nicknamed “The Last Best Place” for its natural, rugged terrain. It is home to some of the last uninhabited areas in North America, and every year, residents expand further into its remote regions, increasing populations across the wild landscapes and the chances of wildfires. Wildfire activity continues to increase thanks to Montana’s semi-arid climate. All residents, especially those living in Wildland-Urban Interface (WUI) areas in remote locations near undeveloped forests or grasslands, should implement these fire-resistant landscaping ideas to protect their homes, families, and landscapes.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nBenefits of Fire-Resistant Montana Landscaping
\n\n\n\n6 Fire-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Montana
\n\n\n\nFAQ About Fire-Resistant Landscaping in Montana
\n\n\n\nFire-resistant landscaping offers many benefits to Montanans, including:
\n\n\n\nWildfires are part of Montana’s past, present, and future. There is no such thing as a completely fireproof landscape. However, you can take steps to protect your home and yard through fire-smart landscaping practices.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Agri-Fab / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nMay is Wildfire Awareness Month in Montana. The primary goal of firewise landscaping is to keep a wildfire low, minimizing its intensity. Wildfire risk reduction is an ongoing process requiring regular attention to landscape maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMontana wildfire preparedness lawn maintenance activities include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Three](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Blanketflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMontana’s mountainous western regions, with their continental climates, receive over 35 inches of annual rainfall. Unfortunately, the steppe climates in the central and eastern regions of the Treasure State only receive around 15 inches of rain or less, far below the national average rainfall of 30 inches, creating a fire-prone habitat.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to note that no plant is fireproof, and any plant will burn under the right conditions. However, some plants resist ignition and are better suited to withstanding extreme heat. Fire behavior, climate, moisture content, plant size, and flammable or inflammable compounds inside bark or leaves all affect a landscape’s ability to resist ignition.
\n\n\n\nCheck out some of the best fire-resistant plants for the Treasure State:
\n\n\n\nHerbaceous Perennials
\n\n\n\nLow-Growing Groundcover
\n\n\n\nMontana Turfgrass
\n\n\n\nTrees and Shrubs
\n\n\n\nSucculents
\n\n\n\nNot all landscape plants are created equal. In fact, most succulents, salt-tolerant plants, and deciduous trees and shrubs are naturally fire-resistant. Watch for the following characteristics when choosing non-native and native Montana plants:
\n\n\n\nConversely, avoid the following characteristics when choosing landscape plants:
\n\n\n\nFirewise construction comes together with your firescaping to create a complete, fire-resistant landscape. FIrewise structures must reduce fuel sources and exposure. Like plants, not all materials are created equal and many construction materials are combustible.
\n\n\n\nLook for the following characteristics:
\n\n\n\nDefensible space, now known as survivable space, involves modifying landscape design, building materials, and inorganic and organic fuel sources to decrease the likelihood of home ignition caused by wildfire. Fire experts encourage all Montana homeowners to firescape and maintain their survivable space, 100 to 200 feet in all directions. This area is known as the Home Ignition Zone (HIZ).
\n\n\n\nYour home is more likely to survive a wildfire without fire suppression and intervention if grasses, plants, trees, and man-made structures are spaced regularly to reduce a fire’s intensity.
\n\n\n\nMontana recognizes three home zones:
\n\n\n\n| Zone | Distance from Structure | Things to Avoid | Recommendations |
| Zone 1 | 0-30 feet | • Woody, aromatic, or resinous plants • Closely spaced plants • Organic mulch • Woodpiles • Wooden decks, pergolas, or trellises | • Fire-resistant plants, shrubs, and trees • Short, green, well-maintained turfgrass • 100-foot garden hose attached to home • Gravel, flagstone, and non-flammable composite decking and hardscapes • Accessible driveway with visible address |
| Zone 2 | 30-100 feet | • Vegetation near wood piles, fuel tanks, or outbuildings • Dense, closely-spaced vegetation • Organic debris piles | • Location for storage shed or outbuilding • Recycle or compost instead of burning • Thin and prune coniferous trees • Store woodpiles and propane tanks |
| Zone 3 | 100-200+ feet | • Dense thickets of shrubs or trees • Overgrowth | • Prune and thin trees • Regularly monitor re-sprouting |
![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hardscaping.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sailko / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nNative plants are adapted to the harsh and dry conditions of Big Sky Country. The unpredictable weather can make outdoor lawn maintenance a burden, while the semi-arid climate makes growing a dense, green yard difficult. Consider hardscaping your backyard to add sustainable visual interest while eliminating the need for weekly maintenance and watering and reducing your landscape’s fire risk.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are man-made features, including:
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are a set-it-and-forget-it choice for your landscape. They don’t require watering, pruning, or mowing. In fact, they don’t require maintenance at all except for an annual cleaning. Be sure to consider materials and location when choosing and installing your hardscapes. Keep wooden structures away from vegetation inside Zone 2 of your home’s survivable space. Stone hardscapes and garden paths make great additions to Zone 1.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nAccording to the National Park Service, humans cause almost 85% of all wildfires in the the U.S. Creating defensible space, maintaining your landscape, and planting fire-resistant species are small steps you can take to help increase the survivability of your property while using common sense and adopting fire-smart habits to decrease Montana’s chances of wildfires.
\n\n\n\nFire-smart habits include:
\n\n\n\nYes. Your roof comprises two-thirds of your home’s outer structure, and it is its most vulnerable component. It can easily catch fire from floating embers. Select a Class A roofing material for the best fire resistance and limit the length of eaves and overhangs.
Montana’s fire season runs from May through October, but wildfires can occur at any time under the right conditions.
In Montana, human negligence from debris burning, campfires, or landscaping and farm equipment cause 75% of all wildfires.
Fire-prone regions like Big Sky Country are arid, and drought-resistant landscaping performs best under these conditions. Switching to drought-resistant landscaping means less time, effort, water, weeding, mowing, and pests. In steppe climates like Montana where average rainfall is less than 15 inches per year, water conservation is important. Consider integrating our drought-resistant landscaping tips into your fire-resistant landscape.
\n\n\n\nFire-resistant landscaping is only a small part of your fire preparedness plan. From designing evacuation routes to creating emergency supply kits and securing furry family members, there is a lot to consider.
Give yourself peace of mind and check one thing off your to-do list. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local landscaping company that can handle your fire-resistant landscape design.
Main Photo by: Jeremy Levine / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nDon’t wait until the last minute to start your outdoor winter prepping. Fall weekends can get awfully busy, but there’s no doubt certain outdoor activities shouldn’t be put on the back burner. Make it a priority to check these tasks off your fall lawn care checklist for Columbus and you will have a healthier and more beautiful lawn come spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll go over:
\n\n\n\nThe cool autumn weather is a great opportunity to fertilize your lawn, control weeds, and improve the overall health and appearance of your Columbus yard. With some effort on your part now, you’ll have a green, healthy carpet by the time spring rolls around.
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEver notice how getting leaves off your lawn immediately boosts your home’s curb appeal? But there’s more to raking leaves than aesthetics.
\n\n\n\nYou can mulch them in your yard to provide some organic nutrients for your soil, but don’t build a thick layer as it can interfere with lawn care treatments and block sunlight. Alternatively, you can gather them up and add them to your compost.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_33362501875_0d0e78d669_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: UBC Micrometeorology / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nColumbus residents generally plant cool-season grasses that grow most vigorously in spring and fall. Careful watering in the fall will lead to healthy growth, strong roots, and a good fighting chance for your grass in winter.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn until the first freeze approaches, around October. Cool-season grass needs around 1 inch of water per week, which includes rainfall. Let your lawn guide you and watch for signs of overwatering, such as:
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering is bad for your lawn as well. A lack of regular watering will result in:
\n\n\n\nAs a rule of thumb, try to follow these watering guidelines:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDethatching is the removal of excess thatch (grass clippings, leaves, dead grass, and other organic matter) from your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDethatching is recommended for lawns that are dry, less dense, and unhealthy. It allows nutrients, air, and water to better reach the soil. Not to mention that it keeps pests at bay, which is always a plus.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to dethatch cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue is late August or early September. With proper lawn maintenance, dethatching only needs to be done once every few years.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you need to dethatch:
\n\n\n\nHow to dethatch your lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you dream of a lush lawn, you can’t overlook aeration. When you aerate, you reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizer, air, and water to penetrate your lawn’s root system. It’s best to aerate your cool-season grasses in fall.
\n\n\n\nOften, dethatching and aeration go hand in hand. When you dethatch, you remove the dead layer of matter preventing your soil from getting the proper nutrients. Then, you come in with aeration to help your lawn breathe.
\n\n\n\nAs a homeowner, there are three different types of aeration you should know about.
\n\n\n\nWhen to aerate: August through November are ideal for fall aeration in Columbus. Also, if possible, try to aerate around the time you fertilize to enhance root growth.
\n\n\n\nHow often to aerate: Most lawns benefit from annual aeration, but heavily used lawns may require aeration twice a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat to expect after aeration: Immediately after aeration, your lawn will be covered with the small plugs pulled from the soil, but worry not, as they’ll disappear into the lawn within a week or two.
\n\n\n\nAbout seven to 10 days after aeration, white active root growth will fill the holes – a sign that the grass is getting the necessary nutrients from the soil. With repeated aeration, your lawn will be able to go longer between waterings without wilting and its drought and heat tolerance will improve significantly.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lab](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Soil-Fertility-Analysis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alandmanson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil tests are an excellent investment for lawns, gardens, and landscapes. They’re an inexpensive way to maintain soil health and provide an accurate diagnostic. You can get a complete picture of nutrient levels, also known as N-P-K levels (which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Though these nutrients are always present in your soil, their levels may not be optimal for grass growth.
\n\n\n\nBy having a soil sample tested, you’ll find out:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to have your soil tested, we explain the process below.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re ready to give this process a shot, you can take advantage of the services provided by Ohio State University Extension in Licking County. The university will help you fill out the submission form and send the samples to an accredited lab. Depending on the soil test results, you’ll know what your lawn needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you look out into your yard, the last thing you want to see is brown patches, spots, and weeds. Luckily, overseeding can prevent all of that. It involves adding seed to your existing grass without tearing up the lawn or soil. Simply put, it’s an easy way to fill in bare spots, improve the density of turf, introduce new grass varieties to your lawn, and enhance color.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to overseed in Columbus is mid to late September, prior to the first frost. If you’ve aerated (which is strongly recommended), overseeding should be done within 48 hours to avoid issues such as decomposition of the aeration plugs or debris getting into the holes.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding can:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawns do a lot more for us than provide a green carpet for our toes to glide through. They improve air quality, reduce heat, and generate oxygen, so keeping them in top shape is important. One of the best ways to do that is to fertilize them.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer means knowing what your soil’s exact needs are. If you’re unsure, consider taking some soil samples and sending them out to a lab for testing (Ohio State University offers submission support and helpful information). The diagnostic will provide insight into your soil’s current condition and the correct nutrients it needs to flourish.
\n\n\n\nFor maximum winter hardiness, disease resistance, and root growth, select a fertilizer that has high concentrations of the macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (also known as N-P-K ratio).
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is vital for lawn growth and that lovely green grass color. The percentage of nitrogen is always the first number on a fertilizer bag, followed by phosphorus and potassium. It will always be higher than the others because soils generally contain enough phosphorus and potassium.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: When it comes to new lawns, you should pick a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, to get the lawn established. A typical N-P-K ratio in this case is 12-16-8 or 8-18-12.
\n\n\n\nThe second number represents the percentage of phosphorus. This nutrient is critical in developing and strengthening a healthy root system. Strong grass roots will keep your lawn healthy and sturdy even through the changing stresses of the seasons. It’s important to introduce phosphorus when first establishing turfgrass and continue application as the grass grows.
\n\n\n\nThe last macronutrient vitally important to lawn health is potassium. It supports water absorption, respiration, and protein production. In essence, potassium helps lawns withstand drought, stress, and disease.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers can be slow-release or quick-release.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release fertilizers are much better for your lawn, as they promote steady, uniform growth. As an added bonus, you won’t have to fertilize regularly.
\n\n\n\nQuick-release fertilizers are absorbed at a much faster pace, but there’s a high risk of burning your lawn. Plus, they don’t last as long, so you’ll need to re-apply.
\n\n\n\nWhen to fertilize: Plan for two fertilizer applications between late August and November. Summer heat is stressful on our lawns, so fall’s cooler temperatures provide the perfect opportunity for Columbus lawns to regain strength.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize because:
\n\n\n\nThe best time of day to apply fertilizer is in the morning or early evening. You’ll avoid the warm daytime temperatures that work against the process.
\n\n\n\nHow to fertilize:
\n\n\n\n![\"large](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/White-Clover.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lawn Weeds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in fall, but did you know that weeds do, as well? There are many types of weeds lurking in our yards just waiting for a chance to sow seed. They’re a pain and can cause issues such as allergic reactions.
\n\n\n\nIn Columbus, you’ll likely encounter nuisances such as:
\n\n\n\nThankfully, there are a few good ways to combat these annoying plants. While fertilizer generally keeps weeds at bay, it may not be enough. Applying pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides is a great way to nip the problem in the bud.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicide acts by creating a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil and coating the seeds to prevent them from growing roots. Make sure it becomes incorporated into the soil via rainfall or irrigation, as it must be present whenever weed seeds are germinating.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It inhibits plant root growth, seed cell division, and specific enzymes critical to the growth of certain plants like weeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply pre-emergent herbicide: Timing is everything. Try to stick to an early to mid-September application and select the right herbicide for your yard.
\n\n\n\nSome weeds will slip past pre-emergent herbicides. In that case, post-emergent herbicide becomes your best friend. It controls weeds that have already germinated and are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nHow it works: It targets specific plant parts, such as leaves and stems. The mixture of chemicals kills the weed and prevents it from growing back.
\n\n\n\nWhen to apply post-emergent herbicide: For Columbus cool-season grasses, post-emergents are best applied in early fall when temperatures are at or slightly above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nA non-selective herbicide kills pretty much everything it touches. In contrast, selective herbicide targets specific weed types and leaves other plants alone.
\n\n\n\nWeed control products are generally available in both granular and liquid forms and application varies. Granular herbicide is poured into a spreader and distributed evenly across the area of the lawn. Liquid herbicide is poured into a sprayer and sprayed all over the target area.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA good sign that you need to stop mowing is when your grass stops growing. It’s important that your lawn is cut to the right height before winter.
\n\n\n\nMow too high and your grass can develop snow mold during wintertime. Grass that’s cut too short may wither and die in the cold temperatures of Columbus.
\n\n\n\nOnce frost has arrived, stop mowing. Frost freezes the moisture inside the grass blades, so any activity on your turf can break the blade and significantly damage your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe table below highlights the mowing height appropriate for Columbus cool-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Suggested Fall Mowing Height |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Fine fescue | 2 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Valve.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnless you properly winterize your irrigation system before winter, you’ll likely end up with cracked pipes and broken sprinkler heads come springtime.
\n\n\n\nColumbus homeowners are advised to winterize their sprinklers in October or early November, before the first freeze.
\n\n\n\nThe winterization process involves:
\n\n\n\nIt depends on how loose your soil is. Grass seeds should be placed on loose, prepared soil. If you simply throw it down, there may be some sprouting, but generally speaking the germination rate won’t be very successful. Taking the time to get your soil ready will ensure optimal results.
Good lawn care leads to a lush, great-looking lawn. Avoid making the following mistakes:
• Mowing too short. This causes your lawn to thin out and provides space for weeds to push through.
• Bagging your clippings. Contrary to popular belief, clippings don’t increase thatch. They provide around 25% of the fertilizer your lawn needs, so don’t deprive your grass of readily available free nutrients.
• Cutting your grass with dull mower blades. Don’t use dull mower blades to mow your lawn as the mower tears the grass blades rather than cutting them. The damage can leave your lawn susceptible to lawn disease.
Chemical fertilizers are generally a ‘quick fix’ solution. They provide the nutrients grass needs, but pollute our water, soil, and the environment within the soil itself. In contrast, organic fertilizers are made from natural ingredients that produce long-lasting feeding for your lawn, making them a much better alternative.
Fall in Columbus is a beautiful sight – the leaves are bright and colorful, the weather is perfect for your favorite sweater, and there are tons of activities to enjoy all week long.
\n\n\n\nBut before you go apple picking and pumpkin patch visiting, get your lawn ready for the long winter ahead. Start planning early to avoid being caught unprepared.
\n\n\n\nStill, if you’d rather go bike riding in one of the city’s metro parks or explore the Columbus zoo and aquarium, a Columbus lawn care pro can get your lawn ready for the cold season so you can continue doing all the things you love.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Ohio State University / Dan Keck / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Columbus, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1789c/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/107df/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 320w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/293e9/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 500w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/f2cbb/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 800w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1789c/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 960w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/c26c2/The-Ohio-State-University.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1dd6e/The-Ohio-State-University.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/67b76/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 320w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/8df11/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 500w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/98a65/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 800w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/1dd6e/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 960w,\n/static/0ffe7518ad4c362dffd468595cf002f5/3cc96/The-Ohio-State-University.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Columbus, OH","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"With Columbus’ snowy winters and frigid temperatures, it’s important to get your lawn ready for the cold ahead by doing some fall maintenance."}}},{"node":{"id":"97ed0690-33a4-5dde-86f5-9a94a61287d3","slug":"how-to-edge-a-lawn","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-edge-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Frank Naper is a nature enthusiast who loves to travel and explore new cities, taking nature photographs along the way.","name":"Frank Naper","id":"548facf1-0faf-5729-a658-167972066913","path":"/author/frank-naper/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/905ec21d5a8e70f5f8486364c08aa6b2?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"cfca3a30-772e-535e-90a9-3056dfc1de8c","name":"Home & Garden","count":15,"path":"/category/home-garden/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"October 15th, 2019","excerpt":"Proper lawn care is more of an art than a chore. Nowhere is that more evident than in lawn edging. Your neighbor’s perfect lawn and crisp edges might make you jealous, but with a few simple tools, a little patience, and a lot of practice, you can achieve the clean lines of perfect edging. Here […]
\n","content":"\nProper lawn care is more of an art than a chore. Nowhere is that more evident than in lawn edging. Your neighbor’s perfect lawn and crisp edges might make you jealous, but with a few simple tools, a little patience, and a lot of practice, you can achieve the clean lines of perfect edging. Here are some DIY techniques professional landscapers use to give flower beds and walkways that manicured lawn look you envy.
\n\n\n\nString Trimmer: A quality power edger is an investment, so do your research and don’t skimp on this purchase. Gas trimmers are heavy but ideal for large yards, while electric trimmers are lighter and more eco-friendly. A straight shaft will give you a longer reach and better ability to cut curves than a curved shaft.
\n\n\n\nManual Edging Tool: This tool looks a little bit like a shovel but has a flat, half-moon edger blade. For small yards or an aversion to power tools, this tool is the answer.
\n\n\n\nManual Rotary Edger: This one looks like a stick with a spiky wheel at its end. The spikes are rotating blades that shear off grass in a line. Used to manually edge grass at the edge of sidewalks or other hardscape surfaces. Good for small lawns with thin-bladed grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nHand Shears: For the finishing touches, trimming grass in hard-to-mow spots.
\n\n\n\nGarden Hose or Rope: Use to mark out the edge if you are making new garden beds and need a guide.
\n\n\n\nA Plank of Wood: You’ll only need this if you are using a manual edger to do the job.
\n\n\n\nThere are only a few ways to go about edging a lawn: using a power edger or weed eater, using a manual edging tool, or a combination of both. String trimmers sometimes come with edger attachments that can make short work of overgrown grass spilling into walkways and flower beds. These power tools can make the job easier. They can also make a big mess of an edge in no time if you’re not skilled at using them. Here are some tips for both methods.
\n\n\n\nPower edging is more hardcore than manual edging and requires a little more caution. Follow these steps for a safe, successful experience:
\n\n\n\nMowing with a lawn mower is always the first step in edging. If you are edging in a straight line, you can use a board as a guide. Before you begin, make sure the blade is sharp. If it isn’t, grab a file and go to work.
\n\n\n\nWith your sharp tool in hand, lay your board along the outside of the straight edge you want to cut. Stand on top of the board with one foot to secure it, and then drive the half-moon edger a couple of inches into the turf, using the edge of the board as a guide. If you’re edging against pavers or a sidewalk, you may come up against the edge, cutting a wedge-shaped bit of turf and earth as you go. Rock the edging blade back and forth and then scoop out the grass and dirt you’ve cut away, depositing them out out of the way to be collected later.
\n\n\n\nKeep a consistent angle by using the board edge as a guide, and make sure the blade stays nice and sharp. Susan Harris of Behnke Nursery recommends edging garden beds to avoid high-maintenance mowing around pavers and stone borders. “It’s called a Victorian Trench,” she says. “It does what edging needs to do — holds back the lawn from the garden and the garden from the lawn — without being an eyesore in the garden.” If you’re manually edging along a curved edge, you’ll want to overlap your cuts and double your depth, cutting to a maximum of 6 inches. When you’re finished with flower bed edges, backfill the trench you’ve dug with mulch for a clean, weed-resistant edge.
\n\n\n\nWhile it may seem like a lot of work, edging, like aerating and fertilizing should be a part of your lawn care routine. It gives your yard a tidy, professionally managed look and feel, and instantly increases your curb appeal.
\n","title":"How to Edge a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/107df/jack-edging.jpg 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/293e9/jack-edging.jpg 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/f2cbb/jack-edging.jpg 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/356ef/jack-edging.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/67b76/jack-edging.webp 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/8df11/jack-edging.webp 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/98a65/jack-edging.webp 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/93f70/jack-edging.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Edge a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"1397b9f5-c435-5c83-b65f-3d4e05d62eca","slug":"best-grass-types-texas","path":"/lawn-care/tx/best-grass-types-texas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Stuart Kushner is a writer and aspiring product designer based in New York City. When he isn’t doing either, Stuart enjoys heavy metal music, exercise, and trying new food and drinks.","name":"Stuart Kushner","id":"82e51515-0cd6-5b19-a026-570eb408a24e","path":"/author/stuart-kushner/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/159400686ba92aeb1f5d3503e0246fc1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"May 1st, 2023","excerpt":"We Texans like to say, “If you don’t like the weather, stick around a minute” because it changes so rapidly. These wild fluctuations – cold to hot, rainy to scorching, windy to still – and the varied climates of this massive state, can wreak havoc on grass and plants. So before you invest in expensive […]
\n","content":"\nWe Texans like to say, “If you don’t like the weather, stick around a minute” because it changes so rapidly. These wild fluctuations – cold to hot, rainy to scorching, windy to still – and the varied climates of this massive state, can wreak havoc on grass and plants. So before you invest in expensive landscaping, it’s critical to know which grasses grow best in Texas.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nTexas is so big that its climate varies from place to place. For example, West Texas and North Texas are drier and cooler than South Texas and the coastal areas. As you might expect, then, certain grass types grow better in some regions than others. For instance, buffalograss grows best in areas that get 25 inches of rainfall or less (annually), while centipedegrass loves East Texas’ intense humidity.
\n\n\n\nThat doesn’t mean you can’t grow buffalograss in coastal Texas and centipedegrass in West Texas, but you will probably have to work harder at it. So keep those differences in mind as we make our way through the strengths and weaknesses of each type of grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_starr_070906-8518_zoysia_sp.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you plan on using your lawn for recreation and entertaining, give some thought to Zoysiagrass because it tolerates foot traffic well. Be aware, though, that if it gets damaged, it can take a while to recover because it grows slowly.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass tolerates drought extremely well, and it bounces back rapidly from drought with some irrigation or rainfall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow about once a week
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKnown as “carpet grass” for the carpet-like feeling beneath your feet, St. Augustinegrass is most commonly seen in Southeast Texas (although it’s grown in most of the state). It’s the most shade-tolerant of the warm-season grasses, but while it handles drought well, it isn’t as drought-tolerant as Bermudagrass or Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass doesn’t like heavy foot traffic so don’t let the kids or pets run wild in the yard.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2.5 to 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass’ strongest traits are its high traffic tolerance and quick recovery. This makes it popular for golf courses, lawns, and athletic fields. It’s also quite drought-tolerant and loves full sunlight.
\n\n\n\nThere are many seeded varieties of Bermudagrass, some of which have finer textures and create a denser turf than standard Bermudagrass. Bermudagrass also comes in hybrid varieties (a mix of common and African varieties), which are more aggressive than regular Bermudagrass varieties.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Both stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Centipedegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is best adapted to East Texas’ acidic soils. It’s best known for its low-maintenance requirements: It doesn’t need a lot of irrigation, fertilization, or mowing. It grows well in moderate shade but thrives in full sunlight, but it doesn’t like heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is used primarily for parks, golf courses, lawns, and other turf areas, but not athletic fields.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolon
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\n![\"California](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/UC-Verde-Buffalograss-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLocated in Central and West Texas, buffalograss likes heavy clay soils in areas with little rainfall. (In other areas, it has to contend with weeds and other invasive grasses). It thrives in full sun but doesn’t like heavy shade or foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss works well in many areas, such as school grounds, golf courses, parks, and roadsides.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizome
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2 – 3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass are your best choices for a lawn that doesn’t require much maintenance.
St. Augustinegrass is the way to go if your lawn gets a lot of shade.
Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass are the preferred choices if you plan on having people in the yard frequently.
There isn’t a single type of grass that fits every Texas lawn. Choosing the right grass depends on where you live.
\n\n\n\nOnce you get your grass picked out, complement it with low-maintenance landscaping that makes your yard come alive but without a bunch of effort and money.
\n\n\n\nWhere do you start? Contact one of Wikilawn’s lawn care professionals, and they’ll give you all the help you need.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Texas Discovery Gardens / Michael Barera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Best Grasses for a Great Texas Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/1789c/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg","srcSet":"/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/107df/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg 320w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/293e9/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg 500w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/f2cbb/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg 800w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/1789c/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg 960w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/c26c2/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/1dd6e/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/67b76/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp 320w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/8df11/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp 500w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/98a65/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp 800w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/1dd6e/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp 960w,\n/static/be031144a6edd0e5dd399b3ae8783dd7/3cc96/Texas-Discovery-Gardens.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Grass For a Great Texas Lawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Texas is such a big state that some grasses thrive in areas that others don’t. Learn more about the best grasses for your Texas lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"4f4b8aaa-1587-5eed-a6b6-34f017b9275b","slug":"best-grass-for-missouri","path":"/lawn-care/mo/best-grass-for-missouri/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Farah Nauman is a freelance writer and an accountant based in Pakistan. She spends most of her time combating the South Asian heat and being a mom to her three fluffy cats and a dozen little Aloe Veras in her house.","name":"Farah Nauman","id":"26059a96-5dc7-50a2-8fe4-f35b865ab4a8","path":"/author/farah-nauman/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6ec8e652d318d98583d29f520928b219?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"08e64923-2067-5321-ba20-42c35858c2cd","name":"Missouri","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mo/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"In the Midwestern transition zone, your Missouri lawn endures both sweltering summers and freezing winters. This makes a perfect recipe for a dull, grim lawn if your yard doesn’t have the right grass seeds to pull through the temperamental climate. In this article, we look at warm- and cool-season grass varieties that work well in […]
\n","content":"\nIn the Midwestern transition zone, your Missouri lawn endures both sweltering summers and freezing winters. This makes a perfect recipe for a dull, grim lawn if your yard doesn’t have the right grass seeds to pull through the temperamental climate.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we look at warm- and cool-season grass varieties that work well in Missouri, along with their pros and cons to help you pick the best grass for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nBefore we get to the list, here’s a quick rundown of what cool-season grasses are like:
\n\n\n\nLet’s dig into these three best cool-season grasses for your Missouri lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is excellent for a Missouri landscape. It’s developed by seed or sod and grows coarse-to-medium-textured, tall turfgrass. This grass tolerates high temperatures, heat, drought, and shade. Given proper care, tall fescue lawns can even stay green all around the year. Plus, it’s a pretty low-maintenance grass.
\n\n\n\nTall Fescue may struggle a little in hotter parts of Missouri during the summer months but survives better in the heat than all other cool-season grasses. It can grow in poor soil conditions and with little fertilization, too. Generally, tall fescue is also highly resistant to pests and diseases and grows best during the fall and spring months.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high – may need irrigation during dry summers
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 – 4 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis dark green, fine-bladed grass type will give your Missouri lawn a temporary pop of color for the winter. Perennial ryegrass is fast germinating and suppresses weeds naturally by establishing quickly.
\n\n\n\nOf all cool-season grasses, ryegrass has the highest wear tolerance, which is why it is popular for parks and golf courses. However, it is less tolerant of heat and drought compared to other species.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass develops tapered, fine-textured, shiny blades that require regular maintenance to keep a uniform look. It is considered a nurse grass, meaning it’s often mixed with other grasses to provide shade and protection to less hardy grass types, such as Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type, extends with tillers
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, look out for red thread, brown patch, and rust
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Kentucky](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass establishes a dense turf and is a popular choice for northern areas due to its winter hardiness. It has a bluish-green color and has a medium texture – not too hard, not too soft – to make a great “barefoot grass”.
\n\n\n\nBut Kentucky bluegrass is high-maintenance. It needs more water and fertilizer than any other cool-season grass type. It prefers areas with partial shade and spreads quickly by rhizomes. It is often mixed with other grass species, typically perennial ryegrass, to create a disease-resistant, tough turf that maintains a nice green appearance year-round.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low, prefers sunlight
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2.5 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.0 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA quick overview of warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\nHere are two warm-season grasses that do well in Missouri lawns:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most widely used grass in Southern Missouri. It’s well suited for your Missouri lawn because it is hardy, low-maintenance, and develops dense turf. Bermudagrass spreads vigorously with stolons and rhizomes and has excellent resistance to foot traffic and wear due to these woven roots.
\n\n\n\nThe dense Bermudagrass turf also naturally crowds out weeds. This grass type is fast-growing and resistant to salinity, heat, and a wide range of soil pHs. However, the rapid growth rate can become a nuisance if the grass invades gardens or flower beds.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass needs full, bright sun to thrive and regular dethatching to stay disease free. It goes brown and dormant in the winter and greens back up around early April.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 1.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Zoysiagrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Rivera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis is a cold-tolerant and thick warm-season grass that will keep your Missouri lawn green for the most part of the year. It’s a popular choice for homeowners with kids and pets because of its hardiness and impeccable foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass thrives in direct sunlight and develops a dark green color turf. This lush green color slowly fades as the temperature drops but won’t turn brown or tan. Since it develops into a dense lawn by stolons and rhizomes, Zoysia lawns are often vulnerable to thatch.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass needs frequent watering during the summer but is super easy to maintain otherwise. It tackles a good amount of foot traffic too.
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.8 – 7.0
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nThe most commonly used grass in Missouri is turf-type tall fescue. It is drought, heat, disease, and insect resistant and does fine with moderately shaded environments too.
The optimal time to plant grass in Missouri is late August to mid-October, September being ideal. At this time, the soil is still warm but the chilly breezes help grass seeds germinate faster.
Tall fescue can maintain a deep green color all year if you care for it properly. It’s well-known for its ability to thrive in transition zones with minimal maintenance.
If you’re confused about what grass type suits your lawn, when and how to plant it, or you don’t have the time to set a lawn up by yourself, call in one of our lawn care pros to help. Our pros come equipped with all the knowledge, equipment, and expertise that you need to choose the right grass type for your Missouri lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Hippopx
\n","title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/107df/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/293e9/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/f2cbb/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1789c/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/c26c2/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/67b76/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/8df11/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/98a65/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/1dd6e/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/e8d5f20dbd7eb3d842f37a0bb26e0249/3cc96/Grasses-for-Your-Missouri-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Grasses for Your Missouri Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Trying to find a grass that will survive the temperamental climate of Missouri? Here are five best grasses to liven up your Missouri lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"02895bd5-14bc-5054-b48c-cb1b0972acb9","slug":"low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-plano","path":"/lawn-care/tx/plano/low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-plano/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Stuart Kushner is a writer and aspiring product designer based in New York City. When he isn’t doing either, Stuart enjoys heavy metal music, exercise, and trying new food and drinks.","name":"Stuart Kushner","id":"82e51515-0cd6-5b19-a026-570eb408a24e","path":"/author/stuart-kushner/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/159400686ba92aeb1f5d3503e0246fc1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"eeca14ff-595b-559f-93ba-b53dc08466da","name":"Plano","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/plano/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"April 11th, 2023","excerpt":"Doing yard work in Plano’s sweltering heat is no fun. Here’s a solution: Transform your landscape with plants that are both attractive and require little maintenance. Check out these low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Plano, and you may thank us for saving you time and aggravation. In this article: Native Plants Photo Credit: Public Domain Pictures […]
\n","content":"\nDoing yard work in Plano’s sweltering heat is no fun. Here’s a solution: Transform your landscape with plants that are both attractive and require little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nCheck out these low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Plano, and you may thank us for saving you time and aggravation.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Scarlet-Sage.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Public Domain Pictures
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to maximize your garden’s beauty while minimizing the time you put into it, add some native plants.
\n\n\n\nBecause they grow naturally in Plano, native plants are accustomed to its climate and soil conditions, making them more drought-tolerant and pest- and disease-resistant than non-native plants. They also attract pollinators like birds and butterflies, giving the critters a source of food and shelter, so everyone wins.
\n\n\n\nSome of Plano’s best native plants include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of Texas native plants:
\n\n\n\n![\"Garden](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Native-Texas-Xeriscape-Garden-Blooming.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Korye Logan / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nXeriscaping allows you to water your plants enough to keep your lawn healthy and lush but not to the point where you’re wasting water. As a result, you reduce water usage, lowering your water bill.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping incorporates seven principles:
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping also involves water conservation tactics, such as mowing at the proper height and fertilizing once in spring and fall.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLow-maintenance, drought-tolerant grasses do well in Texas’ intense heat. The ones that work best in this environment are:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of planting low-maintenance grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Straggler](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Straggler-Daisy.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGround cover is an excellent alternative to grass. They are low-growing flowers and shrubs that crawl horizontally across the ground and are cheaper and require less maintenance than grass. Some ground covers include yellow stonecrop (sedum nuttallianum), straggler daisy (calyptocarpus vialis), and chisme (portulaca pilosa).
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of ground cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Texas-Patio.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Texas Custom Patios / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHardscapes are any non-living elements in your yard. Their purpose overall is to improve how your outdoor space functions. For example, adding a fence or gate gives your space more privacy. Hardscapes also add value and curb appeal to your home. Imagine how your home would look to a potential buyer if its yard were covered in beautiful flowers.
\n\n\n\nSome examples of hardscapes are:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nImplementing some of these low-maintenance landscaping techniques allows Plano homeowners to spend less time in the hot sun and more time doing what they love.
\n\n\n\nCall one of Wikilawn’s local pros, and we’ll happily do the work for you. If you have any questions about maintenance services, lawn maintenance, or lawn care, we’ll answer any questions you might have.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Aldridge House / Michael Barera / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Plano Texas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/1789c/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg","srcSet":"/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/107df/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg 320w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/293e9/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg 500w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/f2cbb/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg 800w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/1789c/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg 960w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/c26c2/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/1dd6e/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/67b76/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp 320w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/8df11/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp 500w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/98a65/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp 800w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/1dd6e/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp 960w,\n/static/81bee832e43bed31cb5487f121caee74/3cc96/Aldridge-House-Plano-Tx.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Plano, Texas","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Rather than toil away in the hot sun doing lawn work, try some of these low-maintenance landscaping ideas for your Plano yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"4984eb1f-13e3-56d1-8213-a81c782eac31","slug":"worst-weeds-austin","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/worst-weeds-austin/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nicki DeStasi is a writer, author, and teacher who grew up in western Massachusetts and currently resides in the Austin area. She enjoys flower and vegetable gardening, reading, cooking, listening to true-crime podcasts, and spending time with her husband, two children, dog, and cat.","name":"Nicki DeStasi","id":"ffbf62e2-d627-5a5f-a041-4eaa9ac66924","path":"/author/nicki-destasi/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9846092d7afb2db8d0a4daa2454074f0?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 18th, 2019","excerpt":"It’s staggering how quickly Austin has grown thanks to its fabulous music, delicious food trucks, and booming tech industry. Unfortunately, the weeds grow just as fast as the population. No matter how hard you work to keep weeds at bay, they find a way to wreak havoc on your lawn. Here, we’ll help you identify, […]
\n","content":"\nIt’s staggering how quickly Austin has grown thanks to its fabulous music, delicious food trucks, and booming tech industry. Unfortunately, the weeds grow just as fast as the population. No matter how hard you work to keep weeds at bay, they find a way to wreak havoc on your lawn. Here, we’ll help you identify, prevent, and remove the 12 worst weeds in your Austin lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll discover:
\n\n\n\nLike any villain, weeds exploit weaknesses. If your lawn has a problem, they’ll find it and take advantage of it. Weeds are typically a symptom of an underlying issue, like thinning turf, soil compaction, or improper pH levels. Routine maintenance, like mowing, fertilizing, and watering, will keep your lawn healthy and prevent weeds from taking root.
\n\n\n\nThere are many reasons weeds are bad for your Austin lawn, including:
\n\n\n\nThere are two effective weed control methods: hand pulling and chemical treatments. Hand pulling is the safest removal method, but it isn’t always the best. Before selecting your removal method, identify the weeds you are dealing with to ensure the most effective removal.
\n\n\n\nExperts agree hand weeding is just as necessary as chemical removal methods. Aim to weed your yard and garden weekly or bi-weekly. Here are some tips to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\nWhether your yard is weed-free or overrun with problems, you’ll want to watch for several types of weeds. Some are stealthy, and some are bold, but these are the 12 worst weeds in your Austin lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Annual-Sow-Thistle-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAnnual sow thistle grows in almost every state, anywhere, including roadsides, lawns, and meadows. The plant can reach up to 4 feet tall and blooms in late spring and fall. Annual sow thistle harbors pests and looks like a cousin of dandelions.
\n\n\n\nAnnual sow thistle is aggressive and has a shallow taproot that allows for easy hand removal. Several pre and post-emergent herbicides are also effective. Specimens have hairless, blue-green, lobed leaves attached to thick, hollow stems that produce milky sap. The flowers are bright yellow and urn-shaped, maturing into a puffy seed head similar to a dandelion.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Winter; summer
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained, sand, loam, clay, or chalk
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chickweed-Stellaria-Media.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jean and Fred Hort / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nChickweed seeds remain viable for 10 years, and each plant has around 25,000 seeds, making it incredibly difficult to eradicate. This upright plant creates a thick mat of small, smooth, oval-shaped leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers.
\n\n\n\nChickweed sprouts in late summer and fall and grows through winter. It thrives in nitrogen-rich soils and in shady areas under trees, close to homes, or along garden walls. Thankfully, these weeds respond well to hand pulling, and if you’re hungry, you can eat them in a salad or pesto. Just be sure to wash it first.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 4-11
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Winter
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; shaded, moist areas
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, broadleaf herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/25140451756_2a557dd4c7_c-3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nDallisgrass started off as a forage plant for livestock in the 1800s. Homeowners often confuse dallisgrass with crabgrass. This invasive nuisance forms clumps using deep rhizomes. Specimens are low-growing and coarsely textured with light green leaves and long seed heads atop tall stalks.
\n\n\n\nDallisgrass grows faster than turfgrass, and the longer it grows, the harder it is to control. It is one of the more common and problematic weeds in the Southern and Southeastern United States.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nType: Grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 6-9
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; moist sand or clay
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Weed fork, pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/800px-Taraxacum_officinale_001.jpg\")
Photo Credit: H. Zell / Wikimedia Common / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nDandelion is one of the most recognizable weeds in the world. The long, deeply lobed leaves form a rosette. Its rounded yellow flowers turn into fluffy puff balls that carry seeds on the wind, infesting your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHand pulling or dandelion forks work well for removal. After you rip them from your lawn, you can clean them off and eat them in everything from cookies to ice cream. Dandelion tea is also popular. Medicinally, they help with several ailments, including:
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; full sun
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, dandelion ford, post-emergent broadleaf herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Goosegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHomeowners often confuse goosegrass, also known as wiregrass, with smooth crabgrass. Specimens have leaf sheaths that end in long, thin, green, slightly hairy leaves. The seed heads comprise one to six-inch long spikes growing in a row to resemble a zipper.
\n\n\n\nGoosegrass has fibrous roots and prefers compacted soil. One plant produces up to 50,000 seeds and is difficult to eliminate. They are resistant to many pre and post-emergent herbicides. Good aeration and lawn maintenance practices are the best control methods.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-9
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; prefer compacted soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; used medicinally
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, pre-emergent herbicide, non-selective post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Henbit.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Miltos Gikas / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHenbit creeps into lawns in the early spring and grows until summer when it goes dormant. You can identify specimens from their pale purple and red blooms that grow in dense whorls. Leaves are egg-shaped, blunt, and coarsely toothed.
\n\n\n\nHenbit is a member of the mint family and is popular with bees and hummingbirds. The leaves, flowers, and square stems are edible with a slightly sweet and peppery flavor, sometimes compared to celery.
\n\n\n\nHenbit has shallow, fibrous roots and grows upright. Choose a dense, warm-season grass and maintain it regularly. It’s important to avoid overwatering, which encourages henbit growth and seed germination.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-8
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Nutsedge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeevan Jose, Kerala, India / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nOften labeled as the world’s worst weed, nutsedge is also called nutgrass and comes in yellow and purple varieties. Nutsedge resembles grass but grows twice as fast. You’ll notice the long, thin, light green (yellow) or dark green (purple) leaves grow taller than the rest of your lawn shortly after a mow. Aeration and proper watering techniques help control nutsedge.
\n\n\n\nLike goosegrass, nutsedge has spiked seed heads. It grows via tubers and rhizomes, six to 12 inches deep. Hand-pulling nutsedge often leaves the tubers, creating a new plant in its place. Apply several applications of chemical herbicide to fend off nutsedge.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nType: Sedge
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; full sun and wet soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible with medicinal uses.
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, weed fork, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Purslane.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Júlio Reis / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.5
\n\n\n\nPurslane, or hogweed, is a prostrate-growing plant with shiny, oblong leaves. It is fast-growing with purple-red stems and produces small, five-petaled, yellow flowers. Tiny black seeds form inside egg-shaped pods and are viable for up to 40 years. Purslane responds well to hand removal.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-12
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; full sun; prefers well-drained, moist sand or loam
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling
\n\n\n\n![\"picture](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Quackgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nQuackgrass is quick-growing and resembles crabgrass. It establishes via rhizomes. Instead of spikes, the seed heads resemble wheat. Also known as common couch, quackgrass has blue-green leaves and a distinctive auricle, a small appendage that clasps around the stem.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Perennial
\n\n\n\nType: Grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-9
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; sand, loam, or clay
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; edible with medicinal uses
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rescuegrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nRescuegrass, or prairie grass, grows in late spring, summer, and fall in dense concentrations of sword-like, green leaves. Specimens crowd native plants, starving them of beneficial nutrients. The hairy leaf sheaths are a lighter green than the rest of the leaf, and the yellow seed heads have wheat-like, flattened spikelets. Remove rescuegrass by hand, but wear gloves because it is toxic to some people.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Sand or loam
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic; skin irritant
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand removal, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Smooth-Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThere are around 35 types of crabgrass, but the one that affects Austin homeowners the most is smooth crabgrass. It is low-growing and has dull green leaves. Its stems turn reddish-purple with age. Smooth crabgrass tolerates mowing and still produces seed at ½ inch in height.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: All
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Weed fork, pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Spotted-Spurge-Trifolium-Repens.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nFind spotted spurge on roadsides, sidewalk cracks, gardens, and lawns in late May through summer. Control its growth with mulch or hand-pull pesky specimens. Spotted spurge is a prostrate-growing groundcover with small, dark green, oval leaves with a dark red to purple spot in the middle.
\n\n\n\nThe stems are pink to dark red and excrete a milky sap when broken or cut. Spotted spurge blooms tiny white or pink flowers, forming inconspicuous clusters. The leaves, stems, flowers, and fruits are all slightly hairy.
\n\n\n\nLife Cycle: Annual
\n\n\n\nType: Broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA Zone: 3-9
\n\n\n\nGrowing Season: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nGrowing Conditions: Adaptable; full sun
\n\n\n\nDanger: Moderate; skin irritant; toxic to sheep
\n\n\n\nRemoval Methods: Hand pulling, pre-emergent herbicide, post-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\nStop weeds from taking root with these helpful tips:
● Choose the right grass type: certain grass types, like bermudagrass, are aggressive and naturally crowd out weeds.
● Keep a healthy lawn: mow, water, and fertilize according to your grass cultivar; a healthy lawn is more prepared to fend off invasive weeds.
● Apply pre-emergent herbicide: these chemicals prevent weeds from germinating
● Mulch: prevents weeds and aids in soil moisture retention
● Pull by hand: remove weeds as soon as possible
Follower these universal steps to maximize your lawn’s health:
● Mow at the right time: Mid-morning, about 9 a.m., or mid-afternoon, about 5 p.m.
● Leave grass clippings: Grass clippings provide essential nutrients for your lawn
● Keep mower blades sharp: Dull blades rip and tear your grass, causing a brown grass tip and a ragged-looking lawn
In Austin, plant grass seed in March or April to avoid late-season frost and give the seed enough time to germinate before the summer.
One of the best ways to keep weeds out of your lawn is to practice good lawn maintenance. Lawn care is a lot of work, but you don’t have to do it alone. Let Wikilawn connect you with an Austin lawn care professional, so you can spend more time enjoying your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Henbit / KENPEI / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"12 Worst Weeds in Austin, TX","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.345291479820628,"src":"/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/1789c/Henbit.jpg","srcSet":"/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/107df/Henbit.jpg 320w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/293e9/Henbit.jpg 500w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/f2cbb/Henbit.jpg 800w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/1789c/Henbit.jpg 960w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/c26c2/Henbit.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/1dd6e/Henbit.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/67b76/Henbit.webp 320w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/8df11/Henbit.webp 500w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/98a65/Henbit.webp 800w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/1dd6e/Henbit.webp 960w,\n/static/96fbecdbce255fbc0bfa17ba9ce389a4/3cc96/Henbit.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"12 Worst Weeds in Austin, TX | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover the 12 worst weeds plaguing Austin, TX. Learn how to identify and combat these invasive plants in our comprehensive guide."}}},{"node":{"id":"240ef13d-10c0-55ef-a3ea-abcbbb9a9bc7","slug":"lawn-fertilizer-schedule","path":"/blog/lawn-fertilizer-schedule/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Fertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the […]
\n","content":"\nFertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the benefits of fertilization and enhance your grass’s growth.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide, we’ll walk you through developing the best fertilization schedule for your grass type’s specific needs. Let’s get started!
\n\n\n\nLearn about:
\n\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDifferent grass species have different development patterns, so you must customize your fertilization schedule accordingly. Always apply fertilizer during your grass’s active growth period and never when it’s dormant. Dormant grass cannot absorb nutrients, so any fertilizer you apply during dormancy goes straight to the weeds lurking in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses and warm-season grasses grow at different times of the year, so they require different fertilization schedules, which you will find below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, do best in regions with cold winters and mild summers. They typically grow in the northern third of the US and somewhat in the central portion of the country, known as the transition zone.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses benefit from a fertilization schedule that includes the following applications:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring, around late March and early April, is an ideal time to apply the first round of fertilizer as cool-season grasses emerge from winter dormancy. Choose a fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen for speedy green-up and healthy root development. Aim for a balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio to assist overall growth and stress tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSummer: Cool-season grasses can experience obstacles such as heat stress and restricted water supply during the hot summer months. To combat drought stress, adjust your watering plan and avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat. Consider using a light application of a slow-release or organic-based fertilizer with low nitrogen content in late summer, as the growth period might kick start. If your grass goes dormant and turns brown in summer, do not apply fertilizer until it greens up again.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As temperatures decrease in the early fall, cool-season grasses enter the period of their most vigorous growth. It is an ideal time for a proper round of fertilization. Use a higher potassium content fertilizer to boost root growth and improve winter hardiness and disease resistance. A balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio is still necessary to promote healthy growth during the growing season and prepare the grass for winter.
\n\n\n\nLate Fall: Apply a winterizing fertilizer developed specifically for cool-season grasses in late fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost in your area, around late October or early November. These fertilizers contain a higher potassium content, which helps to strengthen the grass’s cell walls and increase its resistance to harsh winter conditions. Winterizing fertilizers also aid in the early spring green-up of grass when it emerges from dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass prefer warmer temperatures and grow most actively in spring and summer. They begin to slow their growth in fall when the temperatures drop, and they enter winter dormancy earlier than cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer hot summers, warm-season grasses grow mostly in the South. They can also grow in the transition zone, but they typically struggle in any place with severe winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best times to apply lawn fertilizer for warm-season grasses are the following:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring is an excellent time for the first round of fertilization since warm-season grasses emerge from dormancy and begin their active growth phase. To stimulate vigorous growth, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Look for a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer that consistently supplies nutrients over time, assuring the grass’s continuous nourishment.
\n\n\n\nLate Spring/Early Summer: Warm-season grasses grow steadily throughout the summer and may require ample fertilizing to remain lush. However, it is important to be cautious when fertilizing during this time. High temperatures and drought can stress the grass, leaving it more vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To reduce the chance of damage throughout the hot summer, use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer around the end of May or the beginning of June when the heat isn’t too extreme yet.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As summer gives way to fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth. A round of fertilizer application is best done in the early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Use a fertilizer with a slightly greater potassium content to increase root growth and improve the grass’s winter hardiness. This application will aid in the recovery of the grass from any summer pressures and prepare it for the cooler months ahead.
\n\n\n\nDo not fertilize warm-season grass in late fall, as it is either preparing to enter winter dormancy or has already gone dormant.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the best lawn fertilizer practices for cool-season and warm-season grass types in our guide: When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe amount of fertilizer your grass needs can affect how many times you fertilize throughout the year. Each grass type has its own nutrient requirements, so it’s important to identify your grass type before trying to make a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nFind the proper amount of nitrogen fertilizer recommended for your grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Application Rate Per Year |
| Bermudagrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Zoysiagrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Centipedegrass | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Fine fescue | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Ryegrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
You should never apply more than 1 pound of nitrogen to your lawn at one time. So, if your grass type requires 2 pounds of nitrogen every year, you should spread the fertilizer across at least two applications and possibly more applications of less than 1 pound. If your grass type requires 4 pounds of nitrogen annually, you will need to spread it out across four applications of 1 pound each. Don’t fertilize your lawn more than four times a year.
\n\n\n\nBase the timing of these applications on the cool-season and warm-season lawn fertilization schedules above.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-19.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Galeanu Mihai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil testing is a valuable tool for optimizing your fertilizer schedule. When it comes to lawn fertilization, more than a one-size-fits-all strategy is needed. Soil testing enables you to identify nutrient deficits or excesses in your soil. It identifies the nutrients your lawn requires for its best growth, allowing you to fine-tune fertilizer selection and application.
\n\n\n\nTo perform a soil test, buy a DIY soil testing kit or send a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office for a more in-depth test.
\n\n\n\nThe soil test results provide essential information regarding your soil’s nutrient level. You’ll get a detailed report outlining the levels of primary nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, as well as secondary and micronutrients. The report also contains the pH level of your soil (ideally between 6.0 and 6.5), which is critical for nutrient availability at the grassroots.
\n\n\n\nBased on your soil test results, you can choose the right fertilizer for your grass, which will make your fertilization schedule even more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Close-up-of-Female-Gardeners-Hand-with-Iron-Bucket-of-Granular-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Valerii Honcharuk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelecting the right fertilizer for your lawn can significantly impact its overall health and look. There are a few crucial aspects to consider while choosing the right fertilizer, including:
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about these factors and how they affect your lawn, see our guide to choosing lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe type of fertilizer you select can impact your fertilization schedule. For instance, immediate-release fertilizers only remain in the soil for 4-6 weeks, so they will need to be applied more often for sustained results, while granular fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks and will require fewer applications throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is generally recommended that you water your lawn lightly after fertilizing. Watering aids in dissolving fertilizer granules, allowing nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the grassroots. However, be careful not to overwater, which might wash out nutrients or lead to runoff. Plan to fertilize when the weather forecast is clear of heavy rainfall for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilizing during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, is generally discouraged. Fertilizing during this time may result in nutrient runoff and waste. It can also encourage weeds to take over your yard while your grass is not growing. Not to mention, it’s a waste of your time, energy, and money.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers have longer-lasting effects on your soil by far. For one, they take longer to break down into the soil, which means nutrients are released gradually over time instead of all at once. The organic content in these fertilizers also improves the soil’s texture and overall health, whereas synthetic fertilizers can actually damage the soil and kill important microorganisms.
\n\n\n\nThe tradeoff is that organic fertilizers take longer to show visible results in your grass, while synthetic fertilizers can offer a quick green-up and boost of growth. So, you have to decide if you’re more concerned about the long-term or the short-term benefits.
\n\n\n\nSee our guide to organic lawn fertilizers to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCaring for your lawn means providing the appropriate nutrients at the right time. A well-planned fertilization schedule ensures your grass receives the nutrients it requires all year, supporting healthy growth and vivid greenery.
\n\n\n\nAre you tired of doing all this on your own? Don’t worry; we are here to help. Connect with a local lawn care pro through WikiLawn to help you establish a healthy, bright lawn that will make your neighbors envious.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5463917525773196,"src":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/107df/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/293e9/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/f2cbb/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/c26c2/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/67b76/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/8df11/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/98a65/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/3cc96/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is the right time to fertilize your lawn? Learn all you need to know from our lawn fertilizer schedule, including when and how much to fertilize."}}},{"node":{"id":"b402167d-a3ac-5eaf-8d61-7e59e048b233","slug":"hurricane-resistant-landscaping","path":"/lawn-care/fl/tallahassee/hurricane-resistant-landscaping/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"b2c4f6ff-0472-5f66-b3a2-f18459ce21c7","name":"Tallahassee","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/tallahassee/"}],"date":"April 12th, 2023","excerpt":"Tallahassee is nestled in the Florida panhandle between Jacksonville and Pensacola, 22 miles from the Gulf of Mexico and its pristine sandy beaches. This cultural city recognizes the power and destruction of hurricanes, even without a front-seat ocean view. Hurricane-force winds impact cities as far as 150 miles inland, wreaking havoc on your Tally lawn. […]
\n","content":"\nTallahassee is nestled in the Florida panhandle between Jacksonville and Pensacola, 22 miles from the Gulf of Mexico and its pristine sandy beaches. This cultural city recognizes the power and destruction of hurricanes, even without a front-seat ocean view. Hurricane-force winds impact cities as far as 150 miles inland, wreaking havoc on your Tally lawn. Here are some hurricane-resistant landscaping ideas to help you prepare your outdoor space for hurricane season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n8 Hurricane-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Tallahassee
\n\n\n\nFAQ About Hurricane-Resistant Miami Landscaping
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Taxodium_Distichum_Bald_Cypress_28894599385.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Treeworld Wholesale / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSustained winds of 90 mph or more will uproot large trees. Even 20 miles from the nearest coast, Tallahassee is no stranger to tropical storm winds during hurricane season. The city endured 12 hours of hurricane-force winds and gusts up to 71 miles per hour when Hurricane Michael ripped across the Gulf of Mexico in 2019.
\n\n\n\nWith 41% of all U.S. hurricanes making landfall in Florida, it is important to plant wind-resistant trees to protect your home and neighborhood from flying branches and falling trees.
\n\n\n\nWind-resistant Tallahassee tree species include:
\n\n\n\nTrees to avoid:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of wind-resistant trees:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The average cost of a hurricane-resistant tree varies depending on the size and type of tree, purchase location, and whether you are having a certified arborist handle your landscaping. If you head to your local nursery to purchase your tree, you can expect to spend between $200 to $1,500 per tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/tree-meadow-trunk-woodland-palm-trees-tree-trunks-1097898-pxhere.com-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nStorm preparedness and emergency management are second nature to most residents of Leon County. Unfortunately, no matter how much you plan, you know there is no way to completely protect your home and yard from high winds and storm damage. Selecting wind-resistant trees and thoroughly planning your landscape design increases your plants’ survival chances during a storm surge.
\n\n\n\nSome things to consider as you plan your hurricane-resistant landscape include:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/40561099854_c6581da4db_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: gailhampshire / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nTally sits in the central portion of the Northern Florida panhandle. Native plants are the most salt and wind-tolerant plants you can include in your landscaping, and they are incredibly low-maintenance. Native plants promote a healthy ecosystem and thrive in Tallahassee’s subtropical climate. These plants are hands-off, resistant to local insects and diseases, and more likely to survive flooding from a hurricane churning in from the Gulf.
\n\n\n\nThere are many Tallahassee native plants to choose from. Take a look at some of the most wind-tolerant examples:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Native plant prices vary widely based on many factors, including type, size, and location. On average, you can expect to spend between $15 to $50 per shrub, $5 to $50 per vine, and $200 to $1,500 per tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Tree_Pruning.jpg\")
Photo Credit: TreeMinion15 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nTallahassee residents get to experience the enviable Florida weather and a short 30-minute drive to sugary white beaches. They also have the added advantage of being inland away from most storm surges during a hurricane, and hurricanes only directly impact Tally once every eight years on average.
\n\n\n\nStill, healthy trees are sturdy trees, and one of the best ways to maintain healthy trees is to perform routine maintenance, including pruning and trimming. Be sure to keep your hedges, shrubs, and trees pruned or trimmed to cut down on the number and size of branches flying across your yard during a tropical storm.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of landscape maintenance:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional tree trimming and landscape maintenance costs between $315 to $700, depending on the size of your yard and the number of trees and shrubs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/4608457413_921dff2b0e_c-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rachel Kramer / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMulch is an inexpensive DIY job with enormous benefits for your Florida lawn. Mulch comes in many forms and colors. It is a loose material typically made of organic matter like compost, tree bark, and wood chips that helps reduce weeds, conserve moisture, and protects your plants’ roots from heat.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch is the best option for your Tallahassee landscape. It adds beneficial nutrients to the sandy loam soil as it decomposes, but you will need to add a fresh layer annually. Organic mulch absorbs water, prevents puddling, decreases runoff, and assists in flood management.
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulches like gravel, river rock, and landscape glass are low-maintenance and durable, but the hard pieces ricochet off windows and siding during a hurricane.
\n\n\n\nBest mulch for your Tallahassee landscape:
\n\n\n\nMulch to avoid:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: According to Lowes and Home Depot, wood mulch costs between $3 to $5 per 2-cubic-foot bag. If your landscaping project requires a lot of mulch, you can often purchase it in bulk to save money.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/JiminyPicketVinylFence.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Deniseesser / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nMany Tallahassee fence contractors specialize in wind-resistant fencing and reinforcement. Like trees, all fences are not created equal, especially for wind resistance. It is important to consider the best type of fencing for your landscape and note that wood fences are not the best choice for wind-resistant fencing. However, if the sustainability and natural beauty of wood are something you cannot live without, be sure to choose a slatted fence design to minimize wind resistance.
\n\n\n\nTake a look at some of the most wind-resistant fence types:
\n\n\n\nFence types to avoid:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional fence installation costs between $1,330 to $5,550, depending on size, materials, and location.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/bird-bath-gdd2579a6f_1280-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nThe average Florida homeowner spends 37.7 days mowing in their lifetime. That is a lot of time outdoors, which comes as no surprise considering the year-round warm weather. Statues, flower containers, bird baths, small fountains, and patio furniture are all great additions that add a personal touch and visual appeal to your Tallahassee landscape. Unfortunately, these objects are no match for hurricane-force winds. Be sure to remove all movable storm hazards to minimize damage.
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: There is no cost to move your landscaping decorations or furniture indoors. However, if you are short on space and want to maximize your storm preparedness, you can rent a storage unit for around $125 per month.
\n\n\n\n![\"Water](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pexels-ready-made-3964796-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nTallahassee receives 60 inches of rain per year, and Leon County’s unique topography, including streams, rivers, lakes, and wetlands, is susceptible to overland flooding. Storm drains are an integral part of your overall landscape. Unfortunately, many homeowners often overlook these necessities because they offer little aesthetic value. Yard waste and organic debris clog your drains, leading to increased flooding and water damage. Be sure to keep paths to your drains clear by maintaining your landscape.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of proper drainage:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional French drain installation costs between $1,650 to $12,250, depending on location, size, and excavation needs.
\n\n\n\nThe best hurricane-resistant grasses for your Tallahassee landscape are bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass. Both types of grass tolerate submergence and are great warm-season grasses that also stand up well to heavy traffic.
Yes. Most artificial grass is wind-resistant and can withstand up to 50 inches of rain per hour. Most hurricanes generate precipitation at a rate of 6 inches per hour.
Mow regularly once the ground is completely dry. Aim to mow weekly to stimulate grass growth. Be sure to set your mower to the tallest setting to help your grass establish deep roots, making it more flood and drought resistant.
Check hurricane-resistant landscaping off of your storm preparedness list. While you focus on other areas of preparation, consider letting Wikilawn connect you with a local landscaping company that can handle your lawn care needs.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tallahassee FL Park Ave / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"8 Hurricane-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Tallahassee, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/1789c/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/107df/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg 320w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/293e9/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg 500w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/f2cbb/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg 800w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/1789c/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg 960w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/c26c2/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/1dd6e/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/67b76/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp 320w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/8df11/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp 500w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/98a65/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp 800w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/1dd6e/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp 960w,\n/static/6f9299f08025ad8228fc92b30db13f5c/3cc96/1280px-Tallahassee_FL_Park_Ave_HD04.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Hurricane-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Tallahassee, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Worry less about your storm preparedness with these hurricane-resistant landscaping ideas for Tallahassee, including the estimated cost of each."}}},{"node":{"id":"f6b8f9c4-eb28-52c6-b216-03bf7dabc6df","slug":"native-plants-fort-worth","path":"/lawn-care/tx/fort-worth/native-plants-fort-worth/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"9ccd5174-167e-5379-890b-68ac830ec905","name":"Forth Worth","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/fort-worth/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Choosing these native plants for a Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work.
\n","content":"\nCreating a landscape that’s both easy to care for as well as beautiful is easy in North Texas. Plenty of plants call the Fort Worth area home, and you’ll find them in both natural areas as well as cultivated gardens. Choosing native plants for Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work. Check out these native plants for Fort Worth that will flourish in your backyard.
\n\n\n\nAny way you pronounce it (and Texans pronounce it with a soft “ahn” at the end), the pecan tree is the state tree of Texas. This native tree features beautiful green foliage and plenty of those delicious nuts. Pecan trees can grow up to 100 feet tall, and live to be quite old. This member of the hickory family is a staple in the area and would make a great addition to any North Texas home. It can spread wider than other native trees, so make sure that you have enough room to house this beauty for years to come.
\n\n\n\n![\"Hummingbird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/hummingbird-bush-1024x713.jpeg\")
Also known as the Mexican flame, the hummingbird bush is a Texas native and a magnet for pollinators. This bush features bright red blooms that accentuate any Fort Worth garden. The long tubular flower allows hummingbirds to reach the nectar. Plant the hummingbird bush in drier parts of the garden or along rocky slopes. Placing this beautiful bush near a window or outdoor living space will create up close and personal viewings of the many hummingbirds that will flock to this plant.
\n\n\n\nThere are many different kinds of coneflowers, or echinacea, available in local garden centers all around the Fort Worth area. You’ll find different leaf structures, but all include a beautiful seed head that points towards the sky. Coneflowers are quite popular, for their robust stance against heat and drought. These lovely blooms will continue on for months and attract a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies and bees. Plant coneflowers along a walkway or in a cluster to add both color and vibrancy to the yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrIgK5EFEKyKcFZdbxDFjSTwoAoMmf76p0dPAK_O7x6AeDydSobidtNx6JkZ91vfAld3I1j7WRSX6ZML-8J7IUNMAAV9bTxAHY5sibhgzTDH35XuhIn18LN1Pzgq7gyH-cG_nVn7\")
There is nothing quite like the stunning color of the purple berries that form on the American beautyberry bush. This native plant will grow to around 5 feet tall in favorable soil conditions. The striking clusters of bright purple berries form along the branches of the plant. The berries attract a wide variety of birds. Unfortunately, deer like to eat its large oval-shaped leaves. We recommend planting this native in a spot where you can enjoy the beautiful colors as well as the birds that will flock to it.
\n\n\n\nMany different species of yucca are native to the Fort Worth area. You’ll find Yucca plants all over in various shades and styles. This hardy plant loves hot Texas weather and is extremely drought tolerant. It can grow in a variety of soil conditions and requires little to no maintenance once established. Mix yucca in with other native plants in your landscape or in a xeriscaped area that features drought-resistant plants.
\n\n\n\nUsing native plants in your landscape will add natural beauty and keep you from having to sweat it out in the yard maintaining the garden. Consider adding any or all of these native plants to your Fort Worth garden this year.
Have more questions about lawn mowing and maintenance in Fort Worth? We got you covered! Go to our Fort Worth, TX lawn care page.
\n","title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/107df/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/293e9/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/f2cbb/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 960w","srcWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/67b76/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/8df11/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/98a65/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 960w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"How does your garden grow? If you've planted native plants, it flourishes without much work or water. Check out our list of native plants for Fort Worth."}}},{"node":{"id":"16d1d19a-5b82-534f-bfd2-e250c8ddf32d","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"I firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards. If you’re firmly […]
\n","content":"\nI firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re firmly in the Bahiagrass-grass-is-trash camp, let’s dive into different ways to get rid of Bahiagrass in your landscape!
\n\n\n\nWhether it’s in your lawn or taking up residence in your vegetable garden or flower beds, we’ve got options for you. I will also offer non-chemical approaches to get rid of Bahiagrass if you’re looking for sustainable solutions.
\n\n\nWhen you see Bahiagrass in your lawn or flower beds, the first instinct is to grab ahold of it and yank it out by hand. Manually pulling it out may work, but remember that it reproduces via rhizomes, so you have to remove the entire underground part of the plant, too. If you only hand-pull the top off, the rhizomes continue reproducing, sending out new grass shoots.
\n\n\n\nSo, with this in mind, you should attack Bahiagrass with a multi-pronged approach, employing cultural practices and chemical or natural herbicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nI understand if you’ve ever stood in the lawn chemical aisle at your local hardware or big box store feeling overwhelmed and dizzy by all the choices. There are shelves of different products claiming to control various weeds. And it is essential to pick the right one for the task.
\n\n\n\nBefore we get into specific products, let’s talk about two types of weed killers and what sets them apart from one another: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nI try to use pre-emergent herbicides whenever possible, as it’s easier to stop weeds from germinating (and yes, I’m going to classify Bahia as a weed in this situation) than it is to get rid of them once they sprout. You have limited pre-emergent options if you have Bahia growing on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlease note that it’s imperative to read the product label thoroughly. Only use herbicide you know is safe for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nCompared to pre-emergent products, you have many more options for post-emergent herbicides. However, care must still be taken to ensure you don’t harm your lawn. And be forewarned that you may need to apply these products more than once to control Bahia because of its deep rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nThe following selective herbicides are labeled for use on specific turf types, so they won’t harm the intended grass but should tackle the Bahia infestation. Plus, they’ll likely also get rid of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a little easier to control in flower beds or garden plots. While there is controversy surrounding glyphosate (commonly sold as RoundUp), it is an effective weed killer and works well when you are looking for something for spot treatment. Glyphosate is non-selective, killing anything it touches; be careful not to spray it when it’s windy or when the Bahia is close to other desired plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBeyond chemical treatment methods, you can implement some essential lawn care practices for the control of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nEncouraging a healthy, lush lawn is the best way to prevent unwanted grasses and weeds. A thick, dense carpet of grass will naturally choke out unwanted Bahia trying to take hold.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn on a regular schedule based on the type of grass you’re growing. For most grasses, this will be at least twice per year. Bahiagrass has low nutrient needs, so regular lawn fertilization will hinder its growth and keep it from returning.
\n\n\n\nBahia spreads primarily through underground rhizomes but also puts out distinctive, Y-shaped seed heads. These seed heads disperse and further spread the unwanted grass when left alone. Mowing your lawn consistently—at the appropriate lawn mower height for your turf type—helps prevent any Bahia in your grass from going to seed and spreading.
\n\n\n\nWhen dealing with Bahia that has gone to seed, you should bag and dispose of your grass clippings versus letting them fall back on the grass.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn so it isn’t too dry is a fantastic way to discourage Bahia from growing. Bahia is revered for its drought tolerance and will quickly move into established turf if the soil is too dry and the existing grass is stressed.
\n\n\n\nWater your grass deeply, yet infrequently, several times a week. Aim to give it about one inch of water (total) over the course of a week, but this amount varies slightly based on the grass you’re growing and the soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is opportunistic and will take over empty space, including the bare spots in your St. Augustine or Bermudagrass lawn. To help prevent it from sneaking its way in, anytime you see bare spots in your grass, sow grass seed quickly and cover the soil with a layer of mulch. Growing new grass as soon as possible will help keep Bahia at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFor those who want to veer away from traditional chemical control methods, you have a couple of options that may work. A quick caveat though: these methods typically have a lower success rate and take much longer to see results.
\n\n\n\nSome people swear by using vinegar (scientifically known as acetic acid) as a weed killer. Mix one cup of white distilled vinegar, one cup of water, and a few drops of dish soap from under your kitchen sink. Shake the ingredients together and spray or pour it directly on the Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nThe vinegar pulls water out of the plant, drying out the leaves and ultimately (hopefully) killing whatever you pour it on. This is why it’s essential only to spray it on weeds, making sure it doesn’t get on anything you want to keep.
\n\n\n\nI’ve tried this method myself and have gotten mixed results. I’ve found it works best if you apply it on hot, sunny days and then repeat it every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large Bahiagrass patches in your lawn or garden you want to get rid of, an effective way to tackle them naturally is to deprive the entire section of sunlight. Cover the Bahia with black plastic sheeting or large garbage bags, securing the corners so the covering stays in place. After a couple of weeks, everything under the plastic should be smothered out and dead.
\n\n\n\nPersonally, I think this method is best for your garden and flower beds. If you use it on your lawn, you’ll also kill any other grass in the area.
\n\n\n\nLastly, if you’re looking for an alternative pre-emergent method, you can apply corn gluten meal to your lawn. Use about 20 pounds of it per 1,000 square feet of grass for the best results.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal has been used as an organic, natural pre-emergent herbicide for many years. Researchers at Iowa State University unintentionally discovered its pre-emergent properties in the early 1990s. When applied to the soil, it releases dipeptides, organic compounds that dry out seeds, so they have trouble sprouting.
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a chemical control option, you must carefully choose a product that considers Bahia a “weed” and kills it without damaging your turf. Some commonly used post-emergent herbicides include metsulfuron-methyl, sethoxydim, and imazaquin. Always read the product label and double-check that the herbicide is safe for the type of grass you’re growing.
The biggest problem with leaving Bahiagrass mixed in your turfgrass is its potential to spread and take over. If left unchecked, it could push out your desired turf, whether St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, etc. Plus, Bahia seed heads are unsightly and pop up quickly when left unmowed.
Centipedegrass is the best choice if you’re looking for a warm-season turf that naturally keeps Bahiagrass out. It forms a dense, thick carpet of lawn that will usually keep Bahiagrass from creeping in or choke out any existing plants.
Hopefully, these ideas will help get rid of any unwanted Bahiagrass in your lawn. Once you’ve removed it, we’ve got plenty of resources online to help you with grass and lawn care to keep it from returning. And if you ever need help with lawn weed control, lawn care experts are only a click away!
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/107df/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/293e9/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/f2cbb/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/c26c2/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/67b76/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/8df11/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/98a65/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/3cc96/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Here are some of the best ways to get rid of weedy Bahiagrass in your landscape without damaging your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"b740dd1d-a8c7-5872-a800-10066b383ef3","slug":"best-grass-seeds-maine","path":"/lawn-care/maine/best-grass-seeds-maine/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Cecilia Acevedo is a professional writer, translator, and mom who loves God, reading, and a good rainy nap. She combines her passion for writing with her love for the colorful world painted by her children.","name":"Cecilia Acevedo","id":"0fc0b86b-7672-540a-a0af-58a8d66c6781","path":"/author/cecilia-acevedo/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/75c4cb2a06e5f57c7018b7cb365dd82d?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"47799b4c-dc00-522b-9249-ee471c0c0d49","name":"Maine","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/maine/"}],"date":"May 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Welcome to Maine’s green and picturesque landscapes. As the cool ocean breeze sweeps through charming cities like Portland and Augusta, let’s embark on a journey to uncover the four best grass seeds for Maine. We’ll delve into the secrets of the finest grass seeds that flourish in this idyllic region. Each grass variety reveals unique […]
\n","content":"\nWelcome to Maine’s green and picturesque landscapes. As the cool ocean breeze sweeps through charming cities like Portland and Augusta, let’s embark on a journey to uncover the four best grass seeds for Maine.
\n\n\n\nWe’ll delve into the secrets of the finest grass seeds that flourish in this idyllic region. Each grass variety reveals unique strengths and qualities, making them a perfect match for your Maine backyard. So, gear up and get ready to transform your yard into a lush haven as we unravel these exceptional grass seeds.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nGrasses are an essential component of lawns, but not all grasses are equal. They can be classified into two categories: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. When planning your Maine backyard, you should consider cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses initiate growth in late winter to early spring, producing new leaves. They grow actively in fall and may enter winter dormancy when soil temps drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool-season grasses possess greater tolerance for frost, low light, and lower temperatures, making them suitable for cooler climates.
\n\n\n\nIn contrast, warm-season grasses exhibit a delayed growth pattern, waiting until late spring to early summer to push out fresh leafy growth. Warm-season grasses have lower frost tolerance but thrive under higher light and temperature conditions, making them ideal for regions with hot summers.
\n\n\n\nUnderstanding these distinctions among turf types allows for informed decisions when selecting grass types suitable for specific climates and landscaping needs. Choosing an appropriate grass seed variety can ensure a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhen choosing lawn grass in Maine’s cool climate, four types of grass reign supreme: Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, and tall fescue. These cool-season grasses are well-suited for Maine’s USDA Hardiness zones, which predominantly fall within the 3b and 4a range. With average minimum temperatures ranging from -36 to -25 degrees Fahrenheit, these grass varieties thrive in the state’s cold winter.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRenowned for its stunning dark green hue and fine texture, this grass is a showstopper that will highlight the beauty of any outdoor space. This grass boasts a robust and densely woven root system, making it a powerful ally in erosion control and weed control.
\n\n\n\nWhile Kentucky bluegrass thrives under the warm embrace of sunlight, it does have limited shade tolerance, making it a perfect fit for sun-drenched areas. It also exhibits a moderate ability to handle foot traffic. However, Kentucky bluegrass remains an exceptional choice for a winter-hardy lawn, showcasing commendable resilience despite moderate drought conditions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low. Prefers full sun.
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Specific lawn-oriented varieties of this grass necessitate more regular watering, dethatching, and fertilization compared to those primarily intended for animal feeding purposes.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot only is perennial ryegrass a popular choice on golf courses for its ability to withstand foot traffic and low mowing, but it’s also ideal for high-traffic areas as it can germinate in a remarkably short time, within 5 to 7 days!
\n\n\n\nWhile perennial ryegrass boasts impressive qualities, it’s important to consider its specific requirements. This grass has a low tolerance for dry soil and shade, making it best suited for sun-drenched areas with regular watering. However, the upside is that perennial ryegrass produces minimal thatch, which is easy to maintain. Say goodbye to excessive buildup and hello to a hassle-free lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: By blending the resilience of Kentucky bluegrass with the durability of perennial ryegrass, you can create a lawn that stands strong against foot traffic, diseases, and invasive weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFine fescue is the perfect grass for those seeking shade tolerance and effortless upkeep. This turfgrass variety is renowned for its low maintenance requirements, allowing you to spend less time and effort on lawn care.
\n\n\n\nWhile fine fescue has a low to moderate tolerance for heavy foot traffic, it remains an excellent choice for homeowners who prioritize simplicity in maintenance and desire a stunning, light green lawn. Let your lawn become an oasis of relaxation and natural splendor effortlessly maintained by the charm of fine Fescue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red Fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers poor soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: While it possesses admirable drought resistance, the true highlight of this grass lies in its exceptional shade tolerance. It reigns as the unrivaled champion among all cool-season grass varieties, growing even in areas with limited sunlight.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nElevate your yard’s appeal with Tall fescue! This remarkable grass variety showcases a stunning dark green hue with a glossy sheen, ensuring your lawn stands out in all its glory. It is the most heat-tolerant cool-season grass available, making it a resilient choice for Maine’s climate.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, fescue grass boasts impressive drought tolerance. Furthermore, it doesn’t produce excessive thatch, making maintenance a breeze. Say goodbye to tedious upkeep and hello to a lawn that thrives easily.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when the grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: While tall fescue exhibits moderate traffic and shade tolerance, it remains an excellent option for those who desire a verdant, green lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe hardiest grass in northern climates is perennial ryegrass due to its exceptional durability. Characterized by resilient blades and a robust root system, this grass variety reigns supreme in terms of longevity and strength.
Regarding cool-season climates and drought tolerance, three exceptional grass varieties take the spotlight: Tall Fescue, Fine Fescue, and Kentucky Bluegrass. Among them, Tall Fescue is an excellent choice for withstanding dry and warm conditions.
Cool-season no-mow blends typically feature a mix of fine fescue species. Aptly named, fine fescues boast slender blades that create a velvety texture, making them a delight to walk barefoot. These grasses offer a plush and luxurious feel, providing a gentle and comfortable foot experience.
When choosing the perfect grass for your Maine lawn, it’s important to understand that each variety has unique traits and maintenance needs. Selecting the right grass is crucial, so consider factors like available space, intended usage, and your ability to keep your lawn healthy and vibrant.
\n\n\n\nWhile grass plays a significant role in creating an attractive landscape, it’s worth exploring other options as well, such as low-maintenance landscaping and native plants that thrive in Maine’s environment.
\n\n\n\nIf you need expert guidance, Wikilawn is here to help. We can connect you to skilled lawn care professionals near you. We have trusted pros in Scarborough, Biddeford, and other cities across Maine who can take care of your yard’s maintenance. With the right grass and expert assistance, you can create a beautiful outdoor space to enjoy.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Thuya Garden / Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Seeds for Maine","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/1789c/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/107df/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg 320w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/293e9/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg 500w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/f2cbb/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg 800w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/1789c/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg 960w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/c26c2/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/1dd6e/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/67b76/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp 320w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/8df11/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp 500w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/98a65/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp 800w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/1dd6e/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp 960w,\n/static/3e7d42ab9e68f41a49b623b10bb1269c/3cc96/Thuya-Garden-Northeast-Harbor-Maine.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Seeds for Maine","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover the four best grass seeds for Maine. These top grass seed choices will help you achieve a beautiful and resilient lawn in Maine."}}},{"node":{"id":"3a9717ee-8c2d-52c1-a810-f09cb2aa432c","slug":"best-grass-seeds-vermont","path":"/lawn-care/vermont/best-grass-seeds-vermont/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"6ca58aed-0605-5274-8b33-210f8c631ce7","name":"Vermont","count":1,"path":"/category/lawn-care/vermont/"}],"date":"May 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"The lawns at Shelburne Farms and Hubbard Park are lush and healthy. They are part of what makes the sites so alluring. You can have a home lawn with just as much beauty and appeal when you grow the right grass type. Keep reading to learn about the best grass seeds for Vermont. It doesn’t […]
\n","content":"\nThe lawns at Shelburne Farms and Hubbard Park are lush and healthy. They are part of what makes the sites so alluring. You can have a home lawn with just as much beauty and appeal when you grow the right grass type. Keep reading to learn about the best grass seeds for Vermont.
\n\n\n\nIt doesn’t matter if you’re in the Green Mountains area where the climate is colder and precipitation is high, the drier and hotter Champlain Valley region, or the Connecticut River Valley section of Vermont where it’s the driest. This article will help you choose the best grass seed to build your ideal lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWhether you are overseeding or establishing a new lawn, there are two choices for grass seeds: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Because Vermont has warm, mild summers and long, cold winters, cool-season grasses are the best type of grasses for The Green Mountain State.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in hot, humid climates with mild winters. They grow best in the summer. This grass type goes dormant and turns brown during the cold winter months, from late autumn through early spring. This grass type is commonly found in the southern part of the United States.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses perform well in areas where temperatures are cool throughout most of the year. Like warm-season grasses, cool-season grasses go dormant in freezing temperatures. However, cool-season grasses go dormant later in the winter than warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses also go brown and dormant in the summer as temperatures rise. They grow best in the spring and fall when the climate is cool. This grass type prefers air temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool-season grass is commonly found in the northern regions of the United States.
\n\n\n\nGrass seeds selected for Vermont homes should be durable enough to withstand the state’s cold winters and warm summers. In addition to the snowy winters and the warm summers, Vermont’s weather conditions include floods, ice storms, and heat waves. While no grass can withstand all or even some of these environmental stressors, some grass types are better suited than others for the general Vermont climate. Let’s take a look at the three best cool-season grasses for Vermont.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky Bluegrass has a medium texture and a dark, blue-green color that lives up to the grass’s name. It’s not the softest or the most coarse grass.
\n\n\n\nThis grass is best for properties that get full sun and have well-drained soil. If your property contains a lot of trees blocking the sunlight, your yard is not the best environment for Kentucky Bluegrass to thrive. It has low shade tolerance.
\n\n\n\nKentucky has more maintenance requirements than the other grasses on this list. It needs more fertilization and is more vulnerable to insects and diseases. Bluegrass also requires frequent mowing. This grass is better suited for homeowners with more time for lawn upkeep. However, it has its advantages.
\n\n\n\nIf you have moderate physical activity on your lawn, bluegrass will hold up well. It recovers from foot damage quickly and has a moderate level of foot-traffic tolerance. Kentucky has a high cold tolerance, making it ideal for Vermont’s cold winters.
\n\n\n\nMixing or blending bluegrass with other grasses that thrive best in Vermont will produce the healthiest lawn. Combining different grass species or varieties within grass species makes your lawn stronger and more adaptable to environmental conditions, resulting in a turfgrass canvas that better withstands pests and stress.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It needs more than 6 hours of full sun daily for optimal performance.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a dark to medium green color. It comes with lower maintenance needs than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. If you don’t have much time for lawn chores or you prefer a low-maintenance turfgrass, fine fescue is the best option.
\n\n\n\nBecause fine fescue does not spread by rhizomes like Kentucky does, but instead has a bunch-type growth pattern, fine fescue is not the best grass to fill in bare spots or dead spots. Kentucky or perennial is better suited if you have damaged spots.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue’s growth pattern also makes it less traffic-tolerant than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. The fine fescue variety creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes. However, the rhizomes are short, so creeping red fescue is treated like bunch-type grasses.
\n\n\n\nDespite its shortcomings, fine fescue does have its share of advantages. Since it grows slowly, it requires less mowing. It has lower fertilization needs than the other two grass types on this list, and it also adapts better to conditions that are less than optimal. For example, fine fescues tolerate multiple soil types and lower fertility.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type is the most shade-tolerant of the cool-season grasses. It grows well in partial or full sun. So, whether your property has a lot of trees blocking the sun or your yard receives a lot of sunlight, fine fescue will adapt. It is important to keep in mind that although fine fescue tolerates a variety of soil types, it does not tolerate wet soil or poorly drained soil.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for a low-maintenance turfgrass, fine fescue is a good choice. On the other hand, if you have a lawn full of children playing after school and on the weekends, the low to moderate traffic tolerance of this type of grass rules it out as the best selection.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Sheep fescue, hard fescue, creeping red fescue, slender creeping red fescue, and chewings fescue are the most commonly used varieties.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a bunch-type grass. Like fine fescue, it does not recover well from high traffic. But unlike fine fescue, it has high foot-traffic tolerance. Perennial is a better grass for frequent lawn parties, although it will not recover from the damage as quickly as Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nPerennial’s bunch-type growth pattern also makes it more susceptible to weeds. If you’re interested in using this grass type to remedy dead spots, you may find it interesting that the University of Vermont Extension Master Gardener reports that weeds tend to fill in bare spots before ryegrass can re-establish.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for a grass seed that establishes quickly, perennial is the optimal selection. It germinates in two to four days and produces a lawn in about 14 days. Most grass seeds do not germinate as quickly.
\n\n\n\nPerennial will not grow well in shady areas, so if your property does not get a lot of sun, stick to fine fescue varieties. Although it requires well-drained soil, very dry conditions will hinder its performance.
\n\n\n\nPerennial has a dark green color and fine texture. Its soft feel makes it great for toddlers that like to crawl on the grass or anyone who enjoys grounding themselves by walking barefoot.
\n\n\n\nPerennial is usually not planted alone, but in a mixture with Kentucky or fine fescues. Some reasons perennial ryegrass is best planted with other grass seeds are because of its vulnerability to pests and its lack of hardiness. It does not withstand stresses like heat, cold, salt, and drought.
\n\n\n\nPerennial grows aggressively and may suppress the growth of other grasses. Consequently, do not use more than 15 to 20% of it in grass seed mixtures.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It is recommended that Italian and Annual varieties be avoided. As seedlings, they can grow aggressively. Also, the cold winter weather causes them to die.
\n\n\n\nThe best time of year to plant grass seed in Vermont is during Labor Day. This gives the grass time to establish before winter. Do not plant later than the first week of September, as the grass needs about six to eight weeks to become well-established in cooler temperatures before the colder weather starts.
It depends on your expectations. Sodding allows you to establish grass faster. When you sod, you can do so at any time of year (as long as the soil isn’t frozen). Homeowners just need to make sure the grass will get sufficient water. However, sodding is expensive and there are not as many types of grasses to choose from for sodding.
Seeding, on the other hand, offers a larger variety of seeds to choose from. It is cheaper to seed, and the root system when you seed is initially stronger than when you sod. Unlike sodding, seeding is limited to the growing season, and it takes a longer time to establish a mature lawn when you seed.
Perennial ryegrass germinates the fastest, at two to four days.
No one grass type is best suited for every condition. These conditions include the area of Vermont in which you reside, the characteristics of your property, and your lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nFor example, a shady property requires grass with high shade tolerance. Even if Kentucky bluegrass is recommended for your region, you may need a grass type like fine fescue if your lawn barely gets any sunlight. You may want to be more specific, and choose the chewings variety, which is the most shade tolerant of the fine fescue grass species.
\n\n\n\nChoose grass that compliments your outdoor activity and availability to provide maintenance. A grass with children running and playing hide-n-seek needs durability to withstand the high foot traffic. If you want more time to enjoy sugar samples at the Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks, select grass seeds that free you from unnecessary upkeep.
\n\n\n\nNeed the help of a lawn care pro? Hire a Vermont lawn care pro near you who will handle the yard’s mowing, trimming, and edging.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: The Park in Rochester / Kenneth C. Zirkel / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"3 Best Grass Seeds for Vermont ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/1789c/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/107df/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg 320w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/293e9/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg 500w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/f2cbb/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg 800w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/1789c/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg 960w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/c26c2/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/1dd6e/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/67b76/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp 320w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/8df11/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp 500w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/98a65/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp 800w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/1dd6e/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp 960w,\n/static/f7eda967a4f7b1020bef87a105397138/3cc96/View-of-the-Park-in-Rochester-Vermont.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"3 Best Grass Seeds for Vermont","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"The best cool-season grass seeds for Vermont homes will fit the yard’s conditions, homeowner’s maintenance preferences, and family composition."}}}],"postCity":{}}}}