![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
In Rochester, we get to enjoy all four seasons to the fullest. So do our plants. Yet some homeowners here struggle with grim, dull, or worn-out lawns. It might be your grass itself. It’s essential to choose a grass type for Rochester that can thrive in our tough climate and tolerate all types of soil […]
\n","content":"\nIn Rochester, we get to enjoy all four seasons to the fullest. So do our plants. Yet some homeowners here struggle with grim, dull, or worn-out lawns. It might be your grass itself. It’s essential to choose a grass type for Rochester that can thrive in our tough climate and tolerate all types of soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nSo if you’re changing your lawn, building one from scratch, or repairing tired sections, these grasses will primp it up.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nGrass comes in an array of colors and textures, and each has different properties that allow it to thrive in certain conditions. It’s important to know the differences and then apply that knowledge to build a great, enduring lawn because your grass has a major impact on the overall appearance and health of your landscape.
\n\n\n\nAll grasses come in two categories – warm-season and cool-season grasses. Each of these has unique characteristics.
\n\n\n\nIn stands to reasons that cool-season grasses will hold up better in Minnesota’s bitter cold. Here are the best.
\n\n\n\nThis cool-season grass species is best adapted to cool-weather conditions. Kentucky bluegrass is winter-hardy and grows in a variety of soil conditions. It thrives in the moist, cool weather of Rochester, but gets a tad bit slower during hot and dry summers. This grass is excellent for Minnesota’s lakeshore regions since it loves sandy soils.
\n\n\n\nTypically, it is mixed with perennial ryegrass to encourage germination speed – taking the average 1 to 3-month germination and establishment period for Kentucky bluegrass to only a few weeks.
\n\n\n\nWith Kentucky bluegrass in your yard, you get a beautiful dark-green color that won’t fade with damage or extra foot traffic. It’s quick to recover from injury, resilient to traffic, and spreads rapidly.
\n\n\n\nThe only downside to planting Kentucky bluegrass in your lawn is its poor tolerance of drought and shade. Plus, the year-round maintenance required to keep it sharp might not be every Rochester resident’s cup of tea.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes (underground stems)
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low, prefers sunlight
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 – 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Vulnerable to catching diseases such as dollar spot, leaf spot, and necrotic ring spot
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones: 2 – 7
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ty Haller / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAnother hardy option for Minnesota’s cold winters, tall fescue isn’t bothered by drought or heat, owing to deep roots. that allow it to survive harsh weather and heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue turf is dark green and has a rougher look than bluegrass and ryegrass because of its wide blades. These tough grass blades handle stress well, which is why tall fescue is commonly used in playgrounds. The tall fescue grass type is also resistant to pest problems and diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe best thing about tall fescue is that it’s a great natural weed controller because of its competitive growth rate. It’s super low-maintenance and recommended for beginners and people with pets and children who love to use the lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunches, sometimes rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; it grows back quickly after suffering damage
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones: 2 to 7
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWith strong defenses and a rapid growth rate, perennial ryegrass is popular with homeowners who prefer low-maintenance lawns. This grass type has a very fast germination rate but spreads somewhat slower than other grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass prefers medium fertility levels and well-draining soil. If you’re considering ryegrass for your lawn, make sure you know the difference between common and improved varieties of this grass species. Common perennial varieties don’t tolerate cold too well, so it’s not an ideal pick for a Rochester lawn. Improved perennial ryegrass is more winter-hardy and offers rapid coverage and erosion protection.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunches
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, susceptible to red thread, brown patch, and rust
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones: 2 to 8
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3881264882_501698f330_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nVery similar to perennial ryegrass, annual ryegrass germinates, grows, and establishes fast. It is also known as wintergrass or Italian ryegrass in some parts of the U.S. It’s a less commonly used solution for controlling erosion in lawns and for adding quick color to a dull yard. This makes it a great choice for thinning lawns.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type is an ideal pick for winter overseeding of warm-season lawns because of its qualities. Annual ryegrass is very hardy, resists disease, and withstands foot traffic. It has shallow roots, which means annual ryegrass won’t do great in drought-like conditions. You can spot this grass type from its lime-green, shiny, and coarse grass blades. It thrives in sunny conditions and will die in late spring to early summer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch type
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones: 5 to 6
\n\n\n\n![\"Blades](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/3820997510_5ae18bbfb3_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nAn excellent choice for golf courses, creeping bentgrass is a commercial-grade turfgrass with fine-textured, bright green leaves. The leaves are narrow, flat, and rolled in the bud. Creeping bentgrass stays a low-growing grass even after complete development. It has a shallow root system that makes it less tolerable to drought.
\n\n\n\nCreeping bentgrass is a very high-maintenance grass type because it needs frequent mowing, watering, aeration, lots of fertilizer, and dethatching.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Very high
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 0.125 to 0.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones: 3 to 6
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Fine-leaf-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis is a great option for homeowners looking for a low-mowing, low-maintenance turfgrass. Fine-leaf fescue can grow in acidic, infertile soils and maintains a dense appearance, especially in varieties such as chewing fescue. Creeping red fescue grows more finely in comparison, but all varieties are easy to grow.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue thrives in full sunlight but can grow in shady areas too. It tolerates drought and diseases but doesn’t do well with poorly drained soils.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons, depending on the variant
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2 inches and higher
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones:
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass and fine fescue are quite low-maintenance grasses and are easy to grow, even for beginners.
Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue are quite low-maintenance grasses and are easy to grow, even for beginners.
Early fall is a good time to plant grass seeds because consistent rainfall and warm soil temperatures at that time of the year encourage fast seed germination and better root development.
Now that you know the appropriate grass types your Rochester garden can grow, you have the knowledge to make the right choice. Make sure you choose the grass type according to your lifestyle and the level of maintenance you’re willing to put in.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re putting together a garden, make sure you consider planting the best native plants for Rochester that will cope with the climate conditions here and grow well with little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nSelecting the perfect grass type is just the first step. Build and maintain a healthy lawn with the help of Wikilawn’s pros, who are just a few clicks away.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: House, Rochester, Minnestoa / Bobak Ha’Eri / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.5
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\n","content":"\nLiving in the North Star State, spending time outdoors becomes embedded in your lifestyle — from fishing on the Rainy River to snowshoeing along Gunflint Trail to hiking through Maplewood State Park. But your personal true north, at least when it comes to caring for your homestead, is designing a lawn as lush as all those nearby public green spaces. Achieve your landscaping ambitions by planting one of the best grass types for Minnesota, detailed below.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses boils down to their distinct biologies, which cause them to complete photosynthesis in different ways. Specifically, the number of carbon atoms the grass type carries during photosynthesis determines the type of weather in which various grass types can grow.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses contain four carbon atoms, meaning they can convert carbon dioxide into oxygen more easily in hot weather, favoring temps up to 95 degrees. Grasses under this classification typically grow from early summer through early fall, as they are drought-tolerant, lovers of full sun, and haters of frigid conditions.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses contain three carbon atoms, making them best suited for temperatures between 65 degrees and 75 degrees. Their prime growing season is from late winter to early spring, as they are unbothered by frost and can withstand shade and colder weather. They also actively grow in autumn.
\n\n\n\nWhile our summers are becoming increasingly warmer, it’s because of Minnesota’s cold winters that the only grass types that can flourish here are cool-season varieties.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Kentucky_Blue_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA favorite of homeowners across Minnesota, Kentucky bluegrass is beloved for its thick, carpet feel; dark green, rounded blades; and blue-tipped seedheads. Germination of this grass species takes place through subterranean stems called rhizomes, which can also help repair the grass if it starts to suffer under heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nThis turfgrass has little tolerance for shade and delights in full sun — as long as it gets plenty of water. Periods of drought are not welcomed by Kentucky bluegrass, but it can survive just fine, falling dormant to protect itself. Of all the cool-season grasses, though, this choice is the best at withstanding the below-freezing temps Minnesota is known for.
\n\n\n\nTo keep this high-maintenance turf in tip-top shape, be sure to seed, fertilize, aerate, dethatch, and use broadleaf weed control as needed between late summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For homeowners living in the Northeast region and Northwest region, an assorted mix of Kentucky bluegrass seed and turf-type tall fescue or perennial ryegrass thrives best; available premixed and bags are typically marked “Northern mixture”
\n\n\n\nRather than a single grass species, fine fescue is actually an umbrella term for a variety of grass types — from creeping red fescue to Chewings fescue to hard fescue to sheep fescue — and each one grows differently, depending on the surrounding conditions. For example, hard fescue and sheep fescue grow best in full sun, while Chewings and creeping red fescue grow really well in shaded areas. Variation is also seen in color, with hues ranging from dark green to light green to blue-green, contingent on type.
\n\n\n\nUnlike Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue loves shade; sandy, rocky, and clay-based soils; is salt-tolerant, and is super low-maintenance — and eco-friendly, as its manual water needs are virtually nonexistent. Area rainfall should more than suffice, and even if a drought comes along, this grass species will be just fine; although, it may go dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nMade up of pointy, but soft, narrow blades that feel smooth to the touch, fine fescue is a barefoot-friendly lawn grass. And while it’s not a fan of heavy foot traffic (think kids and pets regularly running around and playing on it), your lawn should be totally fine for average use.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions; prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well in all regions (Northwest region, Northeast region, Central region, the Metro, Southwest Region, South Central region, and Southeast region), especially when mixed with varieties of fine fescues or with other cool-season grasses
\n\n\n\nFiner than traditional tall fescue (which doesn’t hold up as well in Minnesota winters), this grass species isn’t troubled by heavy foot traffic or drought because of its deep roots. Identified by its emerald green color and coarse texture, turf-type tall fescue is another low-maintenance option and can thrive in either full sun or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nTurf-type tall fescue is available to grow bunch-style or with rhizomes and has low water and fertilization needs. Plant as a combination of various turf-type tall fescue cultivars and expect an even deeper root system with stronger drought and disease resistance. You can also blend this type with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-style growth habit or rhizomes, depending on variety
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; grows well in partial shade and full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Weekly mowing; low water and fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 2 and 4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained; use fungicide to fight brown patch
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5–7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Dry, sandy soil
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Grows well statewide. Most cold hardy in the Southeast region.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lolium_perenne_L._Perennial_Ryegrass_-_cultivated_3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Arthur Chapman / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-2.0
\n\n\n\nThere’s a semi-quick fix for those bare patches and thinning areas bringing down the aesthetic vibe of your lawn — perennial ryegrass. Quick with the germination process, this fast-growing grass, which spreads via vertical “tillers,” produces a bunch-style growth with wide blades, a dark green hue, and a glossy sheen. While you can plant it on its own, experts suggest combining it with other cool-season grasses, such as turf-type tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not the most cold-hardy or drought-resistant of the cool-season grasses, but it does boast some salt tolerance and can withstand heavy foot traffic. This sun-loving grass should be planted in well-drained, fertile soil and must receive regular watering.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements; thatch is not significant
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Between 1.5 and 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; common diseases include gray leaf spots, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8 but prefers between 6 and 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility but can tolerate some poor drainage
\n\n\n\nOther notes: One of the best grass seeds for Northwest and Northeast regions; higher quality output.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is just what it sounds like — planting seeds over grass that already exists. This is done to fill in bare and thinning spots to produce a thicker, lusher lawn. In the Metro, as well as in other regions of our state, the best time to overseed is in the fall. The lack of extreme temps this time of year will allow optimal germination for the new seeds.
Now that you know the best grass seed to use on your lawn, let’s take a look at the ones you should avoid. When it comes to warm-season grasses, including bermudagrass and Zoysia, none are a fit with Minnesota’s climate.
And while perennial ryegrass is a nice pick for these upper midwestern temps, annual ryegrass is, well, not so much. The latter does not recur like its perennial sister, so it’s usually only used as a temporary cover.
Transforming your yard from traditional lawn to prairie is another sustainable option. In this scenario, you’d use native ornamental grasses as an alternative to turfgrass. Benefits of prairie lands include diverse flora and fauna and low-maintenance landscaping. Here are a few native grasses to use:
• switchgrass
• big bluestem
• Canada wildrye
• blue grama
• prairie dropseed
• yellow-fox sedge
• bottlebrush grass
Your selection of turfgrasses, ornamental grasses, and native plants should take into account the growing conditions of your yard: Is it shade- or sun-heavy? Is the soil rich and fertile or dry and sandy? What about the hardiness zone, maintenance commitment, and types of wildlife you’d like to attract?
\n\n\n\nIf you still have absolutely no clue where to start, hit up spots like Afton State Park and Roscoe Prairie Scientific and Natural Area for inspiration. Need to hire a Minnesota lawn care pro near you to maintain the yard’s new turf? Connect with trusted pros in Minneapolis and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Minnesota Office Building / Ken Lund / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/107df/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/293e9/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/f2cbb/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1789c/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/c26c2/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/67b76/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/8df11/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/98a65/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/1dd6e/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/98c535a82588f33cf67ff2dbe17f7a3b/3cc96/43353773674_9275e7d466_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Minnesota | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking to redesign your Minnesota landscape but don’t know which grass seed to use? We’ve broken down the four best grass types for Minnesota."}}},{"node":{"id":"c5da6dd7-c54c-5ce7-8e9d-a3ca7921f293","slug":"worst-weeds-minneapolis","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/worst-weeds-minneapolis/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"August 2nd, 2019","excerpt":"Knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n","content":"\nLawn work is hard work, and the last thing you want is weeds to come and mess up your hard work. But knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let the wild violet’s charming name fool you! The wild violet (pictured above) grows quickly and aggressively and is resistant to a lot of weedkillers. You’ll usually find it in the shade, and it likes moist soil. It is a pretty plant, with waxy, heart-shaped leaves and small lavender-blue blossoms, but if you find it in your yard, you’ll probably get over its looks pretty quickly as it spreads. It is a perennial broadleaf weed with a long taproot, so you’ll want a weedkiller that targets broadleaf weeds, killing them but leaving your grass unharmed.
\n\n\n\nThe black medic is an annual clover and grows well in compacted soil. You’ll be able to tell black medic from other clovers because its pom-pom flowers are yellow. This weed often sprouts up next to sidewalks or other areas that are compacted by traffic. Getting rid of it may be as simple as aerating your lawn. It’s also easy to hand-weed, because black medic is a central-growing plant, making it easier to get at the root than other weeds. Chemical weed killers also do a good job of eradicating this plant.
\n\n\n\nCreeping charlie, aka ground ivy, is unmistakable. This weed has round, coin-shaped leaves with frilly edges. Minneapolis is not alone in the fight against creeping charlie; this is an invasive species that has made itself at home throughout much of the continental United States. If you catch it early, in the spring, you can pull it by hand — but make sure you get all of it because this is a fast and easy grower. If you catch it later, you might be better off putting down a fall herbicide in your lawn to completely eradicate creeping charlie.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/dandelion-flickr-1-1024x768.jpg\")
The dandelion has some uses — its leaves can be added to your salad and its central root can be dried and made into a tea. But for most people, the dandelion and its cheery yellow blossoms are a common weed, and one that can be hard to eliminate. If any part of the dandelion, especially that thick central taproot, is left behind, the plant can grow back and proliferate. Experts recommend pulling what you can, and feeding your lawn to make it thick enough to crowd out dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. Applying a pre-emergent weed killer in the spring will help keep dandelions to a minimum as well.
\n\n\n\nThere are dozens of weeds that will try to take advantage of Minneapolis’ sweet but all-too-short summer. This lists off some of the worst of them, so you can eradicate them quickly — and spend more time in your yard relaxing, instead of working.
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care information and tips? Be sure to check our Minneapolis lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Liz West, Flickr
It’s time to put away that ‘Minnesota nice’ and get tough on the insect invaders.
\n","content":"\nTwin Cities gardeners hate any backyard bugs that destroy lawns and gardens. But some of those pests will wreak more damage than others. It’s time to put away that “Minnesota nice” and get tough on the insect invaders. Here are some of the worst backyard pests in Minneapolis — and tips on how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nCutworms (pictured above) aren’t really worms. They’re caterpillars that will turn into several different species of the Noctuidae moth if left alone. The adult moths don’t do any damage. It’s the cutworms in their larval stage that feed on buds, shoots, and leaves, and wreak havoc in your garden. Some prefer your vegetable garden, while other species will damage the lawn. Cutworms get about 2 inches long and curl up into a tight “C” shape if you bother them.
\n\n\n\nYou can pick them off your plants by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Consider adding some beneficial nematodes to your garden to devour the cutworm eggs. You can prevent them from invading your garden by maintaining a 3-foot buffer of dry soil around the edge of your garden. Make sure your yard is well weeded, so cutworms don’t feed on the weeds. And till your plots before planting — it will expose and kill the cutworms long before they can do any damage.
\n\n\n\n![\"Japanese](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/xvntc7whoQz75e9Y5YcsQdFNGTp-dXYnPv-qqQVAEui3agjF8A67m9ZKi47qczN0vBlQQxioe9G_TFCiJTmej_NWKJZqDgK_bYsxdJ-nWMQfNDdgDrpixSOpEUEpRT-AnLtLTFBK\")
If you spot iridescent green beetles in your vegetable patch, you’ve got Japanese beetles. The Japanese beetle is an invasive species that was accidentally introduced to the U.S. in the early 20th century. Today they’re a major backyard pest in the Midwest and on the East Coast. They attack in groups, damaging plants. Even if you don’t see the beetle itself, you can tell they’ve moved in when they’ve eaten your plants down to the veins. They can also cause brown patches in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nOne of the most effective ways to get rid of Japanese beetles is to handpick them. Drop them into a mixture of dish detergent and water, and they will drown. Or put a drop cloth underneath the plants and shake them off. Then, drown them in the detergent water. You can also spray neem oil or potassium bicarbonate on affected plants. This will kill the eggs laid by the adult beetles. There are also commercial pesticides available for sale at your local garden store that will kill Japanese beetles.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll be glad to know that termites aren’t common in Minneapolis. But carpenter ants are a problem, and if you see ants burrowing into an old stump, or log, or your deck, they could be getting inside your home. Like termites, carpenter ants do some costly damage, eating away at the foundation of your house.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll need to call a professional pest removal company to get rid of these buggers. This isn’t the time to try DIY pest control. Some bug sprays can make the problem worse since carpenter ants have several colonies and queens. But you can help yourself out by removing any stumps, logs or old wood near your home, and cut back any branches or bushes from touching your home. Also, make sure you stack firewood away from the walls of your home and inspect any firewood you bring inside.
\n\n\n\nThe bluegrass billbug likes Kentucky bluegrass, as the name suggests. You’ll know you have a problem when you spot irregularly shaped patches of grass that turn yellow, and then brown. The damaged grass can be pulled out easily because the insects weaken the roots. Damage from this backyard pest becomes apparent around July.
\n\n\n\nYou can squeeze the billbug infestation out by making your grass healthier. That means keeping up moisture levels and nutrients, to reduce stress. Lawn experts don’t recommend pesticides for these pests, because the chemicals also kill beneficial bugs and parasites that keep the billbug population in check. However, an application of insect parasitic nematodes might control the infestation. If the infestation is too severe, consider laying down pesticides the following spring.
\n\n\n\nThis caterpillar will destroy your irises. Iris borers chew holes in the leaves and then tunnel through the plant all the way down into the rhizome, the underground runner that is the prize this pest is after. You can spot the iris borer in the spring, by looking for signs of chewed up leaves, or streaks. In the summer, after the caterpillar makes its way down to the rhizome, you’ll see brown-tipped leaves.
\n\n\n\nIf you find them in the spring, you can simply crush the caterpillar while it’s inside the iris leaf, or pick the affected leaves. But if you suspect iris borers later in the season, you need to dig it up and inspect the rhizome. If you see signs of tunneling or the caterpillars themselves, toss the rhizome in the trash. In the fall, after the iris season is over, experts recommend you remove and burn any plants afflicted with the pest. And clean up the iris beds after a hard frost. If you use a pesticide, apply it immediately after the eggs hatch — very early in the spring.
\n\n\n\nFighting the worst backyard pests in Minneapolis can be a time-consuming job. But it’s easier to treat the problem before the damage becomes severe. The difficult part is knowing which pests are damaging which plants. Once you’ve identified the enemy, it will easier to fight it.
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care information and tips? Be sure to check our Minneapolis lawn care page.
The amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do. The city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits […]
\n","content":"\nThe amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do.
\n\n\n\nThe city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits lawn watering between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. each day. This ban exists because of a state requirement for cities to enact a water supply plan. For the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to approve the plan, cities have to adopt several conservation methods. You’ll find similar restrictions in other metro area municipalities.
\n\n\n\nThe suburb of Blaine has the same daytime sprinkling ban in effect from May 15 to Sept. 15. Blaine’s lawn watering restrictions go one step further. People with addresses ending in an odd number can only water on odd-numbered days. Those with addresses ending in an even number only get to water on even-numbered days. This restriction is in place year-round.
\n\n\n\nSo how can Minneapolis and St. Paul get away with no lawn watering restrictions? It’s because most of their water comes from the Mississippi River. The suburbs get their water from underground aquifers which could run dry. According to the Water Treatment and Distribution Services (WTDS), Minneapolis pumps 21 billion gallons of water from the river each year. To make it drinkable, WTDS filters soften and disinfect the water. Fun fact: Minneapolis has more than 1,000 miles of underground water mains. That’s enough to stretch from Minneapolis to Denver.
\n\n\n\nSt. Paul Regional Water Services provides 40 million gallons of water to more than 425,000 customers a day. The city uses similar procedures as Minneapolis to make the water safe for drinking.
\n\n\n\nBoth Minneapolis and St. Paul ask customers to conserve water, even though lawn watering restrictions aren’t in place. Both cities recommend that you water lawns in the morning or evening and not at all when it’s windy. Only water your lawn when it needs it instead of using a fixed schedule and adjust your sprinklers to avoid the sidewalks. Finally, aerate your lawn to allow more water to soak in, and let the grass grow taller during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check with your city or county government for any lawn watering restrictions in your neighborhood. Penalties vary for violating the restrictions in suburban areas. If you live in the Twin Cities proper, join your suburban neighbors by watering smart this summer.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about pest control and prevention in your lawn? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
One of the benefits of living in Minnesota is that you get to fully experience each and every season. From Summer to Winter, we get the best, and the worst that mother nature has to offer. For those of us who are really into lawn care, that can be a bit problematic at times. But […]
\n","content":"One of the benefits of living in Minnesota is that you get to fully experience each and every season. From Summer to Winter, we get the best, and the worst that mother nature has to offer. For those of us who are really into lawn care, that can be a bit problematic at times. But all it really means is that you need a few more tools at your disposal to handle any situation that comes your way. Lawn care in the Twin Cities requires you to have a unique variety of items in your garage, not all of which would be found in the garage of residents in say, Florida or Texas.
\nYou might have heard of some of these tools, and others you may not have, but rest assured everything on this list will help you keep your lawn in perfect condition, year round. Let’s take a look at 10 tools that are absolutely essential for anyone in the Twin Cities looking to stay ahead of the game when it comes to lawn care.
\nThis one goes without saying, everybody needs a lawnmower. A good old-fashioned push mower in the range of $100 – $500 is all you need in most cases, but if your yard is somewhat large at all you can opt for a riding lawn mower. These cost quite a bit more, usually in the $1,000 – $10,000 range, but if you aren’t fond of walking every square inch of your lawn every time it needs a trim they can be pretty useful.
\nJust make sure to get a model with floating decks if you’re going to be mowing hills at all, this will allow you to get that beautiful, finished cut without having to come back around with a push mower.
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/snow-removal-equipment-twin-cities-1024x682.jpg\")
Photo: rebelcheck.com
\nMinnesota winters are notoriously snowy, and you can count on getting snowed in like you can count on the sun to rise. When this happens, don’t be caught unprepared. Make sure you have some kind of snow removal tool you can count on after a blizzard.
\nWhether it’s a snow blower, a snow plow for your vehicle, or just a simple snow blade for your lawnmower, anything beats trying to shovel your way out of your driveway. Chances are your neighbor might need a hand as well, so it never hurts to have something that can get the job done quickly.
\nIf your lawn is all-natural, you want to have both of these tools lying around. A seeder will help you fertilize your entire lawn quickly, and a sprayer will help you douse those pesky weeds in herbicide to kill them before they spread.
\nA 3-gallon pressurized sprayer should do the trick for most lawns, but if you’re working with more than half an acre of land, you might want to go with a 4-gallon backpack sprayer. Both of these items should be around the $50 range, give or take a few bucks
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/lawn-trimmer-minneapolis-1024x768.jpg\")
Photo: toolcraze.net
\nAnother basic necessity for any lawn care enthusiast, the trimmer allows you to cut down grass in places where your lawn mower can’t reach. This will prevent you from trying to reach those places and ruining the blade on your mower. A good trimmer should cost no more than $400 on the high-end.
\nAn edger cuts the grass that grows over borders like driveway edges, curbs, and sidewalks. You can go with either a stick edger ($200) or a four-wheel edger ($400).
\nThis tool is used for blowing all the stray lawn clippings back into your own yard so you can dispose of them properly. A new model shouldn’t cost more than $500 at most.
\nIf you have hedges, a hedge trimmer is definitely a must-have item. The electric version will probably suit you best, but you might want to go with a cordless one if you don’t have any outdoor outlets or extension cords. You can typically find these for around 100 bucks at your local hardware store.
\nMaintaining your lawn is one thing, but actively caring for a garden or building any kind of project in your yard is another story. For these things, you’ll need a long list of special tools so you can handle anything your yard throws at you.
\nTaking care of a lawn in the Twin Cities is a special task that requires everything from a snow blower to a sledgehammer. Whether you just want to keep your existing yard in mint condition, or you want to make a few additions, the tools on this list are sure to cover every one of your bases. It might cost you anywhere from $5,000 – $10,000, but your equipment should last you a long time and keep you prepared for any lawn care situation you run into.
\nHave more questions about lawn care in Minneapolis or St. Paul? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more tips and tricks.
\nTop photo: swardman.com
\n","title":"Lawn Essentials: The 7 Must-Have Tools for the DIYers of the Twin Cities","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5011727912431587,"src":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1789c/lawn-care-toolset.jpg","srcSet":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/107df/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 320w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/293e9/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 500w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/f2cbb/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 800w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1789c/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 960w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/4fb49/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 1920w","srcWebp":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1dd6e/lawn-care-toolset.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/67b76/lawn-care-toolset.webp 320w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/8df11/lawn-care-toolset.webp 500w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/98a65/lawn-care-toolset.webp 800w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1dd6e/lawn-care-toolset.webp 960w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/62477/lawn-care-toolset.webp 1920w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Essentials: The 7 Must-Have Tools for the DIYers of the Twin Cities | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"db4bbe6f-b5b3-5704-b201-6f49ba0d1a10","slug":"native-plants-in-minneapolis","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/native-plants-in-minneapolis/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Descendant of the Fulani tribe, Gettysburg-obsessed Marine Corps brat, and lover of all things writing and editing, Andréa Butler has penned articles for Sesi magazine and sites, such as LivingSocial, Talbot Digital, Xickle, and Rachel Ray. Andréa holds a B.A. in English from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and an M.A. in magazine journalism from Kent State University.","name":"Andréa Butler","id":"dae2e109-3ba9-5073-a19a-e341e567190e","path":"/author/andrea-butler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c671545b46efb40d2596d32a775f26a1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"August 5th, 2019","excerpt":"These are the flowers that have grown here before the first European settlers arrived. Here are some popular native wildflowers, shrubs and trees in Minneapolis.
\n","content":"\nYou love checking out the arts scene and getting a bite to eat over by Central and Lowry, but your most favorite pastime in all the City of Lakes is taking in the wildflower garden at Theodore Wirth Regional Park. Emulate those relaxing vibes by planting your own native garden at home. We’ve rounded up 9 of the best native plants for Minneapolis to start you off.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Northern-Blazing-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Doug McGrady / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSprouting from stems with spiral, narrow, green leaves that are larger at the base and smaller toward the top, these wildflowers give off disc-shaped blooms of pink, purple, or white that grow on a cylindrical ‘spike’, making them the perfect addition to butterfly gardens and drought-tolerant gardens.
\n\n\n\nWith 40-plus species — including “Rough Blazing Star” (liatris aspera) and Meadow Blazing Star (liatris ligulistylis) — there’s sure to be a type fit for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly for new plants; once established water as needed; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 5 feet, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow, green leaves with a spiral look; larger at stem’s bottom, smaller toward the top
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Prairie_Onion_13182350343.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Justin Meissen / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nNamed for the oniony scent that comes from its grasslike leaves, the prairie onion is a totally edible plant that’s easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and resistant to deer and rabbits. Blooming from a solitary stem, the up to 2-inch round, umbrella-shaped cluster of lavender-pink or white flowers displays its beauty for three weeks, typically in July and August. Plant with low-growing selections, as prairie onions do not grow well with taller, more invasive species.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained; sandy, rocky, silt
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Oniony smell
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Occasionally, when soil is dry; otherwise, regular rain should be sufficient
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow and grasslike; emits the onion smell
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, resistant to deer and rabbits
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5992418976_afc9bf5fe7_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Headquarters / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nConsidered fully established by year two of growth from seed, wild bergamot can be naturally found along roadsides, in meadows, and on prairies. It’s easy to grow and unbothered by invasive plants and poor soil conditions. Prized for its rounded clumps of tubular blooms that exhibit purple, pink, or white flowers from June to August, this plant will for sure bring all the bees (hummingbirds and butterflies) to the yard.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Shallow, rocky soil or clay that’s moist, well-drained, or dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: A blend of mint and oregano emitted from foliage
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Natural rainfall should be sufficient; withstands dry soil for a while
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green to grayish-silver with serrated edges; hairy underside, while top can be smooth or hairy; edible
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, deer- and rabbit-resistant
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/black-eyed-susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nBecause they bloom throughout the spring and summer, black-eyed Susans are ideal for planting as pathway borders, in container gardens, or in butterfly gardens. Due to their coarse, hairy leaf texture, these plants are naturally deer-resistant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, sand, loam, acidic, moist, well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Depending on growing conditions can act as a biennial, annual, or short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring, summer, early autumn
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium. It has moderate drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. Can self-seed freely. Black-eyed Susan can become aggressive if given too perfect an environment and insufficient competition.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red_Columbine_3630187830.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jason Hollinger / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nKnown for its red or yellow bell-shaped blossoms, this perennial flowers from May to July. While there’s no scent to this plant, its nectar attracts hummingbirds, bees, and other pollinators. Ideal for rock gardens, shade gardens, and as an accent plant, red columbine is resistant to deer and most insects; however, leafminers may cause cosmetic damage and duskywing caterpillars can be found feeding on the blue-green leaves.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly or whenever soil is completely dry
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Blue-green leaves grow in groups of three
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; deadhead blooms as needed, cut back in late summer
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Amorpha_fruticosa_kz05.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAn ornamental shrub, false indigo works great as a privacy screen/windbreaker or border plant. Easy-to-grow from seed and deer-resistant — deer don’t like the velvety texture of the oblong leaves — this plant gives off purple, blue, or gold/yellow flowers from April to June and attracts butterflies and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil; moist or somewhat wet to somewhat dry
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Light, vanilla scent
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 4 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Oblong green or gray/silver leaves that are velvety to the touch
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May contain alkaloids that are poisonous to animals
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; prune in late winter to early spring to maintain shape
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Geranium_maculatum_11zz.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nFrequently chosen as a ground cover plant, wild geranium’s star-shaped blooms, which show themselves from May through June, mainly come in lavender, blue, red, and pink, fading to white at the base. Groundcover plants can take the place of traditional lawn grass, making for a low-maintenance yard that not only cuts the need for mowing but also helps control erosion and weeds. Wild geranium attracts pollinators, too, and you can even make tea from its flowers.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering ground cover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 11
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, or somewhat wet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green, compound, hand-shaped leaves with serrated edges; hairy on both sides
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/1118557967_739ba55795_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anna / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLong used as flavoring in salads and teas (plus, its seeds can be used to bake cakes, cookies, and muffins), blue giant hyssop heralds the arrival of summer with tall spikes that bear clusters of blue or purple blooms, punctuated by green-gray leaves with serrated edges. In addition to being cold-hardy, this perennial attracts pollinators but repels deer and rabbits.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Silt, shallow rocky, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; similar to anise or licorice
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer through fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low/infrequent
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green with gray, hairy underside and serrated edges
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5127417271_cac902529b_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for an end-of-summer showstopper, New England aster is the one to pick. Blooming from August through October, this native wildflower can grow 6 feet tall and sprouts ostentatious, ray flowers outfitted with up to 100 individual purple or pink petals surrounding a yellow, button center. Perfect for rain gardens and butterfly gardens, New England aster also boasts oblong leaves that are rough to the touch on top with a soft underside of fine hairs.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay or high organic matter that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; of turpentine when crushed
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer and fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium; water well in the absence of rain
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 7 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green oblong leaves; top layer rough to touch/underside is soft and covered in fine hairs
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: N/A; nontoxic
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low once established; deer-resistant
\n\n\n\nBesides assessing your yard for sunlight, soil conditions, and existing plant life, you can find inspiration for specific types of native plants that’ll thrive in your yard by visiting local sites (like Wood Lake Nature Center and Nokomis Naturescape Garden), studying local planting books/magazines, and consulting with a nearby landscaping expert.
\n\n\n\nFirmly situated in USDA Hardiness Zone 4b, Minneapolis can have extreme lows of -25 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter months. Native plants are adapted to this type of climate; however, if you plan to include any non-native specimens in your garden, definitely double check the climate zones they can survive in before planting.
\n\n\n\nSince our final frost typically isn’t until late May, it’s best to hold off on planting until June. Be sure to check the guidelines of the specific plants you’re looking to install in your landscape, though, too–– they’ll give a more precise timeline.
Choosing to cultivate a native plant garden (one that only grows plants that occur naturally in the geographic area) helps preserve biodiversity. A few other benefits:
• Keeps plants thriving, as they’re already accustomed to area growing conditions
• Conserves water because native plants can generally do well with local rainfall patterns
• Deep roots prevent soil compaction/recycle stormwater runoff
• Attracts pollinators — native bees, hummingbirds, etc. already know which local plants provide the food they need
Native plants are adapted to the rainfall of the region and are pretty low maintenance when it comes to watering. During a plant’s first growing season, water weekly; after that, area rainfall should be sufficient, as native plants are typically drought-tolerant.
There are more than 2,100 plants native to Minnesota alone, and there’s a bevy of garden stores nearby that stay stocked with them — from goldenrod and honeysuckle to penstemon, sedges, spiderwort, and all the ones detailed above. Here are just a few spot to get your shopping started:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve purchased your haul, consult a local lawn care pro to keep your yard looking gorgeous. They’ll assist with mowing, edging, hedge trimming, leaf removal, and the like, so nothing will overshadow your native plant garden. Then, sit back and enjoy the beautiful colors, scents, and pollinating visitors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Black Eyed Susan / Garry Knight / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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