![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/snow-removal-equipment-twin-cities-1024x682.jpg\")
One of the benefits of living in Minnesota is that you get to fully experience each and every season. From Summer to Winter, we get the best, and the worst that mother nature has to offer. For those of us who are really into lawn care, that can be a bit problematic at times. But […]
\n","content":"One of the benefits of living in Minnesota is that you get to fully experience each and every season. From Summer to Winter, we get the best, and the worst that mother nature has to offer. For those of us who are really into lawn care, that can be a bit problematic at times. But all it really means is that you need a few more tools at your disposal to handle any situation that comes your way. Lawn care in the Twin Cities requires you to have a unique variety of items in your garage, not all of which would be found in the garage of residents in say, Florida or Texas.
\nYou might have heard of some of these tools, and others you may not have, but rest assured everything on this list will help you keep your lawn in perfect condition, year round. Let’s take a look at 10 tools that are absolutely essential for anyone in the Twin Cities looking to stay ahead of the game when it comes to lawn care.
\nThis one goes without saying, everybody needs a lawnmower. A good old-fashioned push mower in the range of $100 – $500 is all you need in most cases, but if your yard is somewhat large at all you can opt for a riding lawn mower. These cost quite a bit more, usually in the $1,000 – $10,000 range, but if you aren’t fond of walking every square inch of your lawn every time it needs a trim they can be pretty useful.
\nJust make sure to get a model with floating decks if you’re going to be mowing hills at all, this will allow you to get that beautiful, finished cut without having to come back around with a push mower.
\n
Photo: rebelcheck.com
\nMinnesota winters are notoriously snowy, and you can count on getting snowed in like you can count on the sun to rise. When this happens, don’t be caught unprepared. Make sure you have some kind of snow removal tool you can count on after a blizzard.
\nWhether it’s a snow blower, a snow plow for your vehicle, or just a simple snow blade for your lawnmower, anything beats trying to shovel your way out of your driveway. Chances are your neighbor might need a hand as well, so it never hurts to have something that can get the job done quickly.
\nIf your lawn is all-natural, you want to have both of these tools lying around. A seeder will help you fertilize your entire lawn quickly, and a sprayer will help you douse those pesky weeds in herbicide to kill them before they spread.
\nA 3-gallon pressurized sprayer should do the trick for most lawns, but if you’re working with more than half an acre of land, you might want to go with a 4-gallon backpack sprayer. Both of these items should be around the $50 range, give or take a few bucks
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/lawn-trimmer-minneapolis-1024x768.jpg\")
Photo: toolcraze.net
\nAnother basic necessity for any lawn care enthusiast, the trimmer allows you to cut down grass in places where your lawn mower can’t reach. This will prevent you from trying to reach those places and ruining the blade on your mower. A good trimmer should cost no more than $400 on the high-end.
\nAn edger cuts the grass that grows over borders like driveway edges, curbs, and sidewalks. You can go with either a stick edger ($200) or a four-wheel edger ($400).
\nThis tool is used for blowing all the stray lawn clippings back into your own yard so you can dispose of them properly. A new model shouldn’t cost more than $500 at most.
\nIf you have hedges, a hedge trimmer is definitely a must-have item. The electric version will probably suit you best, but you might want to go with a cordless one if you don’t have any outdoor outlets or extension cords. You can typically find these for around 100 bucks at your local hardware store.
\nMaintaining your lawn is one thing, but actively caring for a garden or building any kind of project in your yard is another story. For these things, you’ll need a long list of special tools so you can handle anything your yard throws at you.
\nTaking care of a lawn in the Twin Cities is a special task that requires everything from a snow blower to a sledgehammer. Whether you just want to keep your existing yard in mint condition, or you want to make a few additions, the tools on this list are sure to cover every one of your bases. It might cost you anywhere from $5,000 – $10,000, but your equipment should last you a long time and keep you prepared for any lawn care situation you run into.
\nHave more questions about lawn care in Minneapolis or St. Paul? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more tips and tricks.
\nTop photo: swardman.com
\n","title":"Lawn Essentials: The 7 Must-Have Tools for the DIYers of the Twin Cities","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5011727912431587,"src":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1789c/lawn-care-toolset.jpg","srcSet":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/107df/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 320w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/293e9/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 500w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/f2cbb/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 800w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1789c/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 960w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/4fb49/lawn-care-toolset.jpg 1920w","srcWebp":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1dd6e/lawn-care-toolset.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/67b76/lawn-care-toolset.webp 320w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/8df11/lawn-care-toolset.webp 500w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/98a65/lawn-care-toolset.webp 800w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/1dd6e/lawn-care-toolset.webp 960w,\n/static/1170d9866e897d5b931fb5ba657969a5/62477/lawn-care-toolset.webp 1920w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Essentials: The 7 Must-Have Tools for the DIYers of the Twin Cities | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"6c4e8e7d-907e-5e4d-8c71-95426cbc21d8","slug":"native-plants-for-charlotte","path":"/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/native-plants-for-charlotte/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Frank Naper is a nature enthusiast who loves to travel and explore new cities, taking nature photographs along the way.","name":"Frank Naper","id":"548facf1-0faf-5729-a658-167972066913","path":"/author/frank-naper/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/905ec21d5a8e70f5f8486364c08aa6b2?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"afc750c6-fc25-5d3b-8b8a-77aa8db4c3fb","name":"Charlotte","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0946c7b5-fa0e-522f-b876-ff6b33c2d842","name":"North Carolina","count":17,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/"}],"date":"July 26th, 2019","excerpt":"Gardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these […]
\n","content":"\nGardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these plants alive, choose native plants for Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nNative plants have the upper hand because they evolved to thrive in North Carolina. They provide excellent habitat and forage for pollinators and wildlife. Best of all, they need little care compared to their invasive counterparts. Here are a few of the best native plants for Charlotte, N.C.
\n\n\n\nA local, well-adapted to forests and riverbanks, cardinal flower is a showy native that can grow in the sun and shade. This beautiful perennial can grow from one to six feet tall. While it doesn’t need much water, it prefers slightly moist soil. Blooming from May until October, you’ll see lots of hummingbirds stop by to feast on the nectar.
\n\n\n\nThis native flower is a primary food source for monarch butterflies. This variety of milkweed has bright orange blooms that last from May to August. It thrives best in full sun and dry soil, requiring almost no maintenance to flourish.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rBbq0WF4wWvvYwX5TvdFYCNWhhcn72IvOsFDTENKJvS1cheazSie18on_zi-V6DgzlcHiDvp0V2DBN8pip9pQzGlyjPSYrfnJqQ0BuNJ1RWTGheuHOfDLDXLUD6Mge_elInNec9m\")
This mountain native loves nothing more than sunshine and well-drained soil. From May to June, large spires of yellow flowers adorn the top of this plant’s branches. It’s great for adding color and height to the edges of a garden. Standing three to six feet tall, this is a tall perennial that will steal the show with early spring blooms.
\n\n\n\nThe blue blooms of the dwarf crested iris are great if you’re looking for flowers to plant in shaded areas. Standing less than a foot tall, this miniature blooms from March to May, offering bursts of color and food for hummingbirds in early spring.
\n\n\n\nThis small shrub features long, arching branches and bright foliage. It blooms with striking clusters of purple berries in fall and winter, providing food for wildlife. Usually reaching heights of three to five feet, beautyberry performs best in part shade. This makes it an ideal understory shrub or edge planting. The beautyberry requires little maintenance and will provide color when most of your other plants are dormant.
\n\n\n\nBeloved by gardeners and butterflies alike, buttonbush is a multistemmed shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall. The round white or pink flowers that dangle from the tips of the branches are irresistible to butterflies. Well suited for shade and part shade, this is another excellent understory plant that performs well on the edge of a property.
\n\n\n\nThis is only a taste of the many species native to our area. Hopefully, it can stimulate your imagination about the landscape possibilities when you choose native plants to Charlotte. Remember, the more native your landscape, the more time you can spend enjoying it, rather than maintaining it.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte, NC lawn care page.
Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors.
\n","content":"\nVirginia Beach is one of the lucky metropolitan areas when it comes to lawn watering. Watering restrictions in Virginia Beach are pretty much nonexistent. A representative of the public utility says Virginia Beach has plenty of water. But the truth isn’t quite as simple as that, and the city asks people to follow a list of water conservation recommendations. Here’s a little bit of the history behind this, along with the city’s conservation recommendations.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest drought of the last century took place in 1930. The United States Geological Survey says that was one of the most severe droughts recorded in the state. Things dried up again in 1938-1942, and 1962-1971 and other years, like in the 1980s More recently, a milder drought hit Virginia in 2002.
\n\n\n\nToday, Virginia Beach pumps in millions of gallons a day from Lake Gaston. That abundant water supply allows the city to skirt water restrictions. But this didn’t come without a court challenge from the state of North Carolina, where part of the lake is located. Virginia Beach prevailed, but the water supply is a hard-fought resource, and the city promotes conservation.
\n\n\n\nThe city of Virginia Beach has a list of recommendations for outdoor and indoor water use on its website. Those recommendations include watering your lawn in the early morning. Morning watering is also best for the grass since it allows the roots time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. Watering during the day wastes water and watering at night leaves the lawn vulnerable to disease and fungus. The city also recommends replacing some of your grass with mulched garden beds and choosing native plants, which are adapted to the climate of Virginia Beach. Other common-sense tips include aiming your sprinklers away from driveways and streets and towards your grass.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line is that you can water as much as you want and when you want, and the city of Virginia Beach is not going to come after you. Even though there aren’t any watering restrictions for Virginia Beach, the city asks you to be smart about the way you use your water outdoors. Save the water for a rainy day … or rather several dry days when we really need it!
\n\n\n\nWant more information about lawn care and landscaping in Virginia Beach? Visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
As a homeowner, you’re searching for low-maintenance landscaping ideas for the Pacific Northwest that suit your busy lifestyle. In a region filled with captivating cities like Seattle and Portland and the breathtaking Idaho landscapes, there’s always something to do, from hiking to skiing. So, who has time for endless yard work? The Pacific Northwest has […]
\n","content":"\nAs a homeowner, you’re searching for low-maintenance landscaping ideas for the Pacific Northwest that suit your busy lifestyle. In a region filled with captivating cities like Seattle and Portland and the breathtaking Idaho landscapes, there’s always something to do, from hiking to skiing. So, who has time for endless yard work?
\n\n\n\nThe Pacific Northwest has an incredibly diverse climate, ranging from the mild, rainy coastlines to the colder, drier mountains. As a local, it’s crucial to find landscaping ideas that can thrive in these conditions. If you’re curious about how you can transform your garden into a low-maintenance outdoor oasis, check out the tips below.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll explore:
\n\n\n\nAdding perennials to your garden is one way to create a visually stunning and easy-to-maintain landscape. The good thing is the Pacific Northwest is home to a wide variety of native perennials that can flourish in the region’s unique climate.
\n\n\n\nBy introducing native perennials into your landscape, you can sit back and enjoy their beauty without spending endless hours on watering, fertilizing, and pest control. Moreover, perennials have a significant advantage over annuals as they don’t need to be planted each year, helping you save time, money, and effort.
\n\n\n\nSome popular low-maintenance perennials for Seattle, Portland, and other PNW gardens include:
\n\n\n\nBenefits of low-maintenance perennials:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The estimated cost for incorporating these plants into your landscape ranges from $10 to $100 per plant, depending on size, location, and variety.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/39114468694_a55e6cddd3_c-1.jpg\")
Evergreen Huckleberry
Photo Credit: John Rusk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
Native plants are low-maintenance options that require less water, fertilizers, and care than non-native species. They also provide essential habitats and food sources for local wildlife and pollinators, such as butterflies and hummingbirds, contributing to a healthy and biodiverse ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nThese plants are well-adapted to the unique climates and soil conditions found across Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. By using native plants, homeowners can create a more sustainable and environmentally friendly outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nSome Pacific Northwest native plants include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Similar to perennials, native plant prices in the Pacific Northwest can vary significantly based on factors such as type, size, and location of purchase. On average, you can expect to spend between $15 to $50 per shrub, $5 to $50 per vine, and $200 to $1,500 per tree when incorporating native plants into your landscape.
\n\n\n\nGroundcovers make a fantastic addition to Pacific Northwest gardens for numerous reasons. Not only do they help prevent soil erosion and suppress weed growth, but they also add visual interest to your landscape. Their ability to quickly spread across the ground can create a lush carpet, providing an attractive alternative to traditional grass lawns.
\n\n\n\nIn the Pacific Northwest, where rainfall is plentiful, groundcovers can also help with water conservation by reducing evaporation and improving water absorption in the soil. This makes them a practical and eco-friendly choice for homeowners who want to create a low-maintenance and sustainable garden. They come in a variety of colors, textures, and growth habits, allowing you to create a unique and personalized landscape design.
\n\n\n\nSome popular low-maintenance groundcovers include:
\n\n\n\nBenefits of groundcovers:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: You can expect to spend between $5 and $50 per plant. Keep in mind that purchasing plants in larger quantities or from local nurseries may help reduce the overall cost.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: christina rutz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nUsing mulch is an excellent way to create a low-maintenance garden. It offers plenty of benefits, such as retaining moisture and regulating soil temperature. It also acts as a barrier against pesky weeds, saving you time and money on weed control.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulches, such as wood chips and bark, are great choices for many gardens in the area. Not only do they provide the benefits mentioned above, they also add nutrients to the soil. This helps boost overall soil health and support the growth of your plants. Thus, making organic mulch a must-buy for Pacific Northwest gardeners.
Types of mulch:
Advantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, homeowners can expect to pay between $3 to $5 per 2-cubic-foot bag of wood chips or bark mulch. For larger landscaping projects, it’s often more cost-effective to purchase mulch in bulk, which can range from $20 to $50 per cubic yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Untitled-design.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jit Lim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPavers offer a practical and eco-friendly solution for designing walkways, patio, and other hardscaping elements in your Pacific Northwest landscape. By adding pavers in your outdoor living area, you can make your space more appealing and low-maintenance.
\n\n\n\nThere are various types of pavers you can incorporate around your home, ensuring you can find a design that can fit your style and complement your garden. With the proper installation, pavers also allow for efficient water drainage, making them an environmentally friendly choice for the often rainy Pacific Northwest climate.
\n\n\n\n
Types of pavers:
Advantages of pavers:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The estimated cost of using pavers in your landscape design varies depending on factors such as the type of pavers selected, the size of the project, and labor costs in your area. Generally, homeowners can expect to spend anywhere between $10 and $25 per square foot for paver installation.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rain](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rain-Garden.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Steakley / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nTraditional lawns can be a hassle to maintain, but alternative landscaping ideas offer eye-catching, low-maintenance solutions for busy Pacific Northwest homeowners. Rock gardens and wildflower meadows, for example, create stunning focal points while requiring minimal care and attracting pollinators.
\n\n\n\nSmall garden designs featuring native groundcovers and shade-loving perennials provide a welcoming outdoor haven with little upkeep. By opting for these alternatives, you’ll enjoy a beautiful, eco-friendly landscape without the time-consuming maintenance tasks.
\n\n\n\n
Alternative front yard ideas:
Advantages of alternative front yard ideas:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The estimated cost of establishing a rock garden can range from $500 to $1,500, depending on the size and materials used. For wildflower meadows or small garden designs, the cost varies based on plant selections, with an average range of $10 to $50 per plant.
\n\n\n\n![\"Shade](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/48007433781_5fbe2531fe_k.jpg\")
Photo credit: Mark Levisay / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen designing your Pacific Northwest garden, it’s crucial to consider the amount of sunlight each area in your outdoor space receives. This will guide you in creating thriving, personalized spaces, from cozy shade gardens with lounge areas to full sun spaces filled with drought-tolerant plants.
\n\n\n\nFor your shaded retreats, consider weaving in plants like hostas, ferns, and conifers that can happily grow without much sunlight. Meanwhile, in your sun-kissed areas, go for drought-tolerant plants like coneflowers, yarrow, and ornamental grasses. By doing so, you’ll cultivate a garden design that’s not only visually captivating but also delightfully low maintenance.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of shade gardens and full sun spaces:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Shade-loving plants can cost anywhere from $5 to $40 each plant, while drought-tolerant plants can cost anywhere from $8 to $50 per plant. The total cost will be determined by various factors, such as plant size and variety, as well as the number of plants required to complete your garden design.
\n\n\n\n![\"Small](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/image-93.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nIncorporating a water feature, such as a pond or fountain, into your landscape design can create a visually appealing focal point that enhances the overall atmosphere of your outdoor living space. The soothing sounds of flowing water can provide a calming ambiance, perfect for unwinding after a long day or enjoying a weekend with family and friends.
\n\n\n\nTypes of water features:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of water features:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: A water feature in your garden can cost anywhere from $200 for a tiny DIY fountain to over $5,000 for a professionally placed pond.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/24704432229_e1b1bb0579_b-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to install an efficient irrigation system to ensure the health and beauty of your low-maintenance garden in the Pacific Northwest. A well-designed system not only helps maintain your garden beds but also contributes to water conservation efforts. By using drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or smart sprinklers, you can provide the right amount of water to your plants while reducing water waste.
\n\n\n\nTypes of irrigation systems:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of irrigation systems:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: You may anticipate paying between $1,500 and $5,000 on an efficient irrigation system, depending on the size of your garden and the intricacy of the system.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulches such as shredded bark, wood chips, or compost are ideal for low-maintenance landscaping in the Pacific Northwest region. As they decompose, these materials help to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and improve soil quality.
To create a low-maintenance rain garden, choose a location that collects runoff from roofs, driveways, or other impervious surfaces. Use native plants that are well-adapted to the region’s climate and can tolerate both wet and dry conditions.
Low-maintenance hardscaping ideas for the Pacific Northwest include using permeable pavers for walkways and patios, creating rock gardens with native stones and plants, and installing attractive, durable, and weather-resistant outdoor furniture to create inviting outdoor living spaces. These elements require minimal upkeep and can withstand the region’s climate conditions.
Embracing low-maintenance landscaping is the key to enjoying your weekends in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. However, it’s important to remember that low maintenance doesn’t mean zero maintenance, and some outdoor tasks will still need your attention.
\n\n\n\nInstead of spending your valuable time on outdoor upkeep, consider connecting with a local lawn care pro that can handle ayour lawn care needs. This way, you can spend more time exploring the breathtaking landscapes of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho or simply relaxing in your own outdoor oasis.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Wonderlane / Flickr / Public Domain
\n","title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for the Pacific Northwest","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5018773466833542,"src":"/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/1789c/lawn-in-seattle.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/107df/lawn-in-seattle.jpg 320w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/293e9/lawn-in-seattle.jpg 500w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/f2cbb/lawn-in-seattle.jpg 800w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/1789c/lawn-in-seattle.jpg 960w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/c26c2/lawn-in-seattle.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/1dd6e/lawn-in-seattle.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/67b76/lawn-in-seattle.webp 320w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/8df11/lawn-in-seattle.webp 500w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/98a65/lawn-in-seattle.webp 800w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/1dd6e/lawn-in-seattle.webp 960w,\n/static/ffe574233be026ada3009a8a947126b1/3cc96/lawn-in-seattle.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for the Pacific Northwest | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spend more time hiking nature trails with these low-maintenance landscaping ideas for the Pacific Northwest, including the estimated cost of each."}}},{"node":{"id":"dca8334b-eef4-5852-bbab-1c382c999382","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Regular mowing and watering can mean the difference between a thick, green lawn and one riddled with brown spots and disease. This monthly lawn care guide for Jacksonville will help you get started with the essentials.
\n","content":"\nBoth humans and plants appreciate the beautiful spring weather in Jacksonville. The sunshine draws turfgrass out of its winter dormancy, and it’ll start growing in full force before you know it. Warm-season grasses awaken from their winter slumber in March, picking up speed in April and May as temperatures rise.
\n\n\n\nNow’s the best time to assess your turf’s health. Did it suffer damage in the winter? Do you need to make any changes to its care? Get your lawn care off on the right foot with these 11 lawn care tips for Jacksonville so you can enjoy healthy, beautiful turf all summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you take a break from mowing in winter, it’s easy to let debris accumulate on the lawn. Thoroughly clean up the following, so you have a clean slate to work with:
\n\n\n\nWhen your lawn is clean, you can get a better look at your grass and be better able to assess its health.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Shredded leaves can make great mulch for your lawn. Here’s how to use them:
\n\n\n\nYou also can purchase a mulching mower to make this process more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you begin any spring lawn treatments, you should get a soil test. Soil tests reveal your soil’s pH levels. Most grasses prefer a pH between 5 and 6, though St. Augustinegrass can tolerate up to 7.5. If the soil pH is too high or low, it interferes with nutrient uptake. Florida’s soils tend to be acidic, but coastal properties may have more alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests also may show what nutrients are in your soil, so you don’t over or under-fertilize. However, not all tests cover nutrient analysis. Contact the University of Florida’s Duval County Extension Office or other soil testing lab to see their current offerings.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes your lawn feel a little spongy? It may have accumulated too much thatch. Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant matter on the soil’s surface. A little thatch is fine, but too much thatch (typically more than an inch) can suffocate your lawn and host pests and diseases. Use a thatch rake, dethatcher, or verticutter to remove this layer.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time to dethatch since your lawn has had some time to recover from winter and regain strength. However, you don’t necessarily need to dethatch every year. Most grass types can get by just fine with thatch removal every few years. The exceptions are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass, since they’re both prone to excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how often you should expect to dethatch the common grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | When to Dethatch |
| Bahiagrass | Rarely an issue |
| Bermudagrass | Once a year; best in summer to reduce recovery time |
| Centipedegrass | Dethatch when the thatch layer is more than ¼ inch |
| St. Augustinegrass | Dethatch when the layer exceeds 1 inch; best done in early spring or midsummer |
| Zoysiagrass | Every few years |
![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith the pleasant weather, you’re probably enjoying more fresh air than before. Believe it or not, your lawn wants to breathe some of that air, too. Compact soil makes it more difficult for air, water, and nutrients to reach your turf’s roots. Heavy clay soils are more prone to compaction, but even the sandy soil in North Florida can fall victim to compaction with enough foot traffic or heavy equipment use.
\n\n\n\nTo relieve soil compaction, aerate your lawn. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing your grass to spread out. Spike aeration also creates small holes for water, air, and nutrients but can ultimately cause the soil around the holes to become more compact. You can take advantage of the holes created by aeration to deliver seeds and fertilizer directly into the ground.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time for this invasive procedure because grass can bounce back quickly during its growing season. It’s also good to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. However, you don’t need to aerate every year. To see if you need aeration, push a screwdriver into the soil. If it’s difficult to do, your soil is compact and needs to be relieved.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Spraying-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour turfgrass may be one of many plants growing on your lawn this spring. Jacksonville is home to many troublesome weeds that compete for resources and affect curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nIf you can already see the weeds, then you need post-emergent herbicides. To get ahead of weeds that haven’t yet sprouted, apply pre-emergent herbicides. Always follow the labels to avoid killing your grass and polluting the local ecosystem. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially risky for newly seeded lawns. To minimize herbicide use, avoid excessive moisture and keep your grass dense and healthy to outcompete weeds naturally.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are categorized by type (broadleaf, grassy, sedges, or rushes) and lifecycle (annual, biennial, or perennial).
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have net-like veins on their broad leaves. They easily stand out from turfgrass, ruining the curb appeal of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some broadleaf weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat broadleaf weeds with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Mowing also helps control them, especially for lawns that aren’t well-established yet.
\n\n\n\nThese weeds have hollow, rounded stems. They can look quite similar to your existing grass, but they’re still a threat.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common grassy weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds are best controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. Goosegrass germinates later than other weeds, so you can wait to apply pre-emergent control for three or four weeks into March. Post-emergent herbicides for grassy weeds are few and far between because they often kill turfgrass, too.
\n\n\n\nRushes have solid round stems, and sedges have solid triangular stems. These weeds prefer moist soils, so avoid overwatering your lawn. Some sedges also like compacted soil because of the poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nSome sedges and rushes in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nCultural control is a good first step for sedges and rushes. Aerate to improve drainage and avoid overwatering. You may need repeated herbicide applications to rid yourself of nutsedges.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live and die in less than a year. There are two types: summer annuals and winter annuals. Winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass will be at the end of their lifecycle, but summer annuals are just getting started.
\n\n\n\nSummer annual weeds in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nThe winter annuals begin life in fall and die off by the end of spring, so you can decide whether to treat them now with post-emergent control or wait until they die on their own. You can get ahead of summer annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicide on the first of March or before temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for four to five days in a row.
\n\n\n\nCultural control is also effective for many annual weeds. Maintain a proper mowing, watering, and aeration schedule to discourage annual weeds.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a longer growing season of two years. During the first year, they will only show vegetative growth. By the second year, they will flower, then die after producing and spreading their seeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some Florida biennials:
\n\n\n\nBiennials are difficult to control in spring if they are seeding. If you remove or treat them with herbicides during their first year, you can halt their spread.
\n\n\n\nUnlike annuals and biennials, perennials can stick around for three or more years if not treated.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials you could find in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause perennials reseed and regrow each year, post-emergent herbicides are most effective. It is easier to control perennials in the fall when they aren’t growing as aggressively.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven healthy grass can fall victim to hungry pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in spring:
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: These scarab beetle larvae eat the roots of all grass types and are found underground. You can check to see if you have them by pulling back a one-square-foot flap of turf. If it lifts easily, it’s probably because the grubs have eaten the roots. Dead turf caused by these pests usually isn’t visible until late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: Appearing in spring and fall, these caterpillars create brown damaged spots in lawns. They particularly like bermudagrass. You can control fall armyworms with pesticides, but they may inadvertently kill their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs: St. Augustinegrass is particularly vulnerable to chinch bugs. They create yellow and brown damage patches that often appear in drought-stressed parts of your lawn. Spring pesticide applications, dethatching, and reducing fertilizer use can help prevent these pests.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs: Check your zoysia and bermudagrass for yellow coloring and easy-to-pull-up grass. This damage from hunting billbugs may be misdiagnosed as drought or disease. Keep your grass well-watered to withstand infestation, and use pesticides when there are more than ten billbugs per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinter sometimes leaves an unpleasant surprise in your lawn: disease. Lawn diseases are usually caused by fungi and cause discoloration and death. If untreated, you could spread the disease with your lawn mower. You’ll need to identify the disease before you can begin treatment. Let’s review some common lawn diseases homeowners encounter in spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease creates discolored turfgrass patches around 1 foot to several feet in diameter. Dark rot infects the lowest part of the leaf, though not the roots. It is especially problematic for St. Augustine and zoysiagrass lawns but can affect all grass types grown in Jacksonville. Look for large patch throughout spring when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nFungicides like azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, fludioxonil, flutolanil, and iprodione will stop the spread. However, it’s better to prevent it in the first place with proper lawn maintenance practices. Water in the morning to avoid leaving the grass excessively wet. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizer instead of quick-release, so you don’t fuel the fungus.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot slows down growth and makes lawns look thinner. Look for small, oval-shaped olive green or brown spots with dark borders. These spots will produce spores when humidity is high. This fungal disease most often affects St. Augustinegrass but also afflicts centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot doesn’t always cause serious problems. However, you can apply fungicides and plant-available silicon before sprigging to suppress gray leaf spot. Avoid compacted soil, overwatering, and quick-release nitrogen. The herbicide atrazine can put St. Augustinegrass at risk if it’s applied when temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease affects St. Augustinegrass lawns in late spring and early summer when rainfall is frequent. The grass is more likely to fall victim if soil fertility is low and light is scarce. Look for dark brown leaf spots and oblong lesions similar to those caused by gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Cercospora leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nUse slow-release nitrogen and potassium fertilizer to prevent Cercospora leaf spot. If the grass is already infected, apply fertilizer with quick-release nitrogen and potassium with a ratio of one to one. Water early in the morning (before 8 a.m.) to avoid long wet periods, and only when the grass shows signs of dehydration. Consider the Bitterblue cultivar for a more resistant St. Augustinegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe silver dollar size of the round, straw-colored patches give this disease its name, though the patches can grow much larger. Look for small, pale lesions on the grass blades. Turfgrass may become thin and more susceptible to weeds. Dollar spot is common in spring and fall and does best when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nKeep grass hydrated, as low soil moisture makes dollar spot worse. Provide sufficient nitrogen through fertilizer to improve resistance — too little makes the grass vulnerable, but too much can promote dollar spot and other diseases. Keep on top of other cultural practices like dethatching and aeration to keep grass healthy enough to fight this disease. Use fungicides if cultural control doesn’t help.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough typically harmless, slime molds coat grass blades with unappealing spores and growths. Some may look like soot while others look like blobs. Slime molds appear in spring when the weather is warm and wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime mold:
\n\n\n\nSmile mold doesn’t technically require control. You can let it disappear naturally and your grass will be fine since the mold only sits on the surface. However, you can remove it with mowing or a strong stream of water.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is thinner than you’d like, it may benefit from overseeding. You can evenly spread the seeds over the whole lawn or target specific areas that are particularly thin. If your lawn has bare patches, consider sprigs, plugs, or sod to fill the area instead.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting more grass, make sure you’ve addressed any underlying issues. If overirrigation, poor soil quality, disease, pest infestation, or other improper care is the root cause of your thin grass, new grass won’t solve the problem. Proper lawn maintenance may make grass grow denser naturally, especially as the peak growing season approaches.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to renovate or repair your lawn, here are the best times to establish each grass type.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting (in Fahrenheit) | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Jacksonville |
| Bahiagrass | 77 – 86 | March – June |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | March – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | April – July |
| St. Augustinegrass* | 65 – 80 | March – May |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | April – July |
*St. Augustine can’t be established with seeds, so the above information applies to sod, plugs, and sprigs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass can best utilize nutrients when they’re actively growing. Use the results of your soil test to guide your purchases in the fertilizer aisle. The best fertilizers for Jacksonville lawns have slow-release nitrogen and little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nFlorida soils tend to be high in phosphorus but keep an eye out for phosphorus deficiency just in case. Symptoms include reduced growth and dark green shoots that turn purple.
\n\n\n\nThe middle of April is the best time to fertilize your lawn. If you fertilize too soon or too much, it can lead to fertilizer runoff and harmful algal blooms in local waterways like the St. John’s River. You also should avoid fertilizing when there’s a hurricane, tropical storm, or flooding warning, so those nutrients don’t go down the drain.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour winter break from mowing was nice, but now you’ll need to dust off the mower and get to work. First, take care of any mower maintenance:
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, check the condition of your weed eater.
\n\n\n\nOnce your tools are ready, measure your grass. You don’t want to cut your grass too short, or it could affect its health. Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade at once. Doing so will damage the grass and hinder its growth. Here are the ideal mowing heights for common Jacksonville grass types:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Your grass won’t reach its peak growth rate until summer, so you only need to mow once or twice a week during spring. Use its current height as your guide, and mow more frequently when you notice its growth rate increasing.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverwatering your lawn can have worse consequences than underwatering, as it encourages diseases and weeds. The University of Florida recommends homeowners irrigate on an as-needed basis to avoid overwatering and wastage. Only irrigate only when you see signs of dehydration, such as:
\n\n\n\nYou will likely need to water your lawn once or twice a week in spring, depending on rainfall. The spring showers in Jacksonville will likely save you time and lower your water bill.
\n\n\n\nMost Jacksonville lawns require ½ to ¾ inch of water at a time. Here are specific recommendations based on grass type:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Amount of Water per Application (in Inches) |
| Bahiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Bermudagrass | ¾ – 1 |
| Centipedegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| St. Augustinegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Zoysiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
The best grass types for Jacksonville are:
• Bahiagrass
• Bermudagrass
• Centipedegrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
All these grasses are warm-season grasses, which means they grow best when temperatures are warm. The bulk of your lawn care will be in summer, but you still need to care for your lawn in spring and fall to prepare it for the changing seasons.
If your current grass type isn’t working, you can try overseeding it with another to see how it fares. If your current grass type is doing well, it’s probably best to stick with what you’ve got.
Some people overseed their lawns in fall with cool-season species like perennial ryegrass to extend its green color during winter.
For the first mow of the season, consider cutting your grass a bit shorter to eliminate old grass and debris. However, you shouldn’t cut off too much, or you could damage the grass. Make sure always to keep the grass height within the recommended guidelines. Feel free to raise your mowing height gradually as the season progresses.
Weed and feed products are not as effective as using each product individually. Pre-emergent herbicides are best applied around March 1 in North Florida, while fertilizer should wait until around April 15.
Do you want to spend your spring on yard work? This season is the perfect time to visit the beach before the summer tourists arrive. Leave lawn care to a Jacksonville professional, and they’ll ensure your lawn is prepped for its peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.9077901430842608,"src":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/107df/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/293e9/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/f2cbb/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/c26c2/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/67b76/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/8df11/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/98a65/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/3cc96/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spring is when your North Florida lawn picks up speed. Set your Jacksonville lawn up for success with these spring lawn care tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"5908cf98-cb78-53df-98af-d3a6440e5ca6","slug":"best-grass-types-peoria","path":"/lawn-care/il/peoria/best-grass-types-peoria/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"51e1f258-c2e9-5d28-83c3-bb7bc475352c","name":"Illinois","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/il/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"7424e8c1-74fb-5607-a946-d87b0be13097","name":"Peoria","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/il/peoria/"}],"date":"April 6th, 2023","excerpt":"Nestled on the Illinois river, Peoria is located about two hours outside Chicago, in the central part of the state. Even though both cities are located in the same state and sit on the water, Peoria has marked differences from the Windy City. We get it, though. You’re looking for lawn care information geared towards […]
\n","content":"\nNestled on the Illinois river, Peoria is located about two hours outside Chicago, in the central part of the state. Even though both cities are located in the same state and sit on the water, Peoria has marked differences from the Windy City.
\n\n\n\nWe get it, though. You’re looking for lawn care information geared towards your specific area instead of reading up on Chicago-based recommendations. Especially when it comes to important decisions such as reseeding bare spots in their lawn or landscaping new construction.
\n\n\n\nWith that in mind, we’ve put together this guide on the best turfgrass for Peoria.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ethan2039 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nOne of the most popular turfgrasses for Central Illinois – and much of the Midwest – is Kentucky bluegrass (KBG). This thick, dense grass is the most winter-hardy cool-season grass and is the first choice of many commercial sod growers.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass thrives in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. It spreads by underground stems known as rhizomes that help it recover from foot traffic well but lead to a shorter root system, making KBG only moderately drought tolerant.
\n\n\n\nThe rhizomes also allow the grass to fill in damaged or bare spots quickly without needing to be overseeded. This is beneficial as Ketucky bluegrass seed is slower than other cool-season grasses to germinate and establish.
\n\n\n\nHowever, keeping your lawn a beautiful shade of deep, dark green requires more maintenance and patience than other cool-season grasses. You can’t forget to fertilize, water, and mow it!
\n\n\n\nNote: For more information on Kentucky bluegrass, check out LawnLove’s guide.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Tall Fescue
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
Tall fescue stands out from other cool-season grasses because of its growth habit. It is known as a bunchgrass, growing upright in clumps that spread primarily through vertical shoots known as tillers that branch off from the base of the plant. The grass blades are wide, coarse, and medium to dark green.
\n\n\n\nIt is an ideal low-maintenance grass for Peoria, suited for non-irrigated lawns in full sun or partial shade. Tall fescue grass seed germinates more quickly than Kentucky bluegrass, and with roots growing 2-3’ deep in the soil, it has superior heat and drought tolerance. This tough turf is mostly disease-resistant and is great for high-traffic play areas.
\n\n\n\nSince it does spread by tillers, it may require reseeding when bare spots develop.
\n\n\n\nNote: For more information on tall fescue, check out LawnLove’s guide.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Fine-leaf-Fescue.jpg\")
Fine-leaf Fescue
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
Another choice for Peoria is fine fescue, a group of five turf grasses with similar looking narrow leaves: chewings fescue, hard fescue, sheep fescue, slender creeping red fescue, and strong creeping red fescue. Homeowners love their soft fine texture, shade tolerance, ability to withstand moderate foot traffic, and low maintenance requirements.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses tolerate low soil fertility; even on poor soils, they don’t need much fertilizer. You may see a decline if you apply fertilizer too often. They do, however, prefer well-drained soil.
\n\n\n\nStrong creeping red, hard, and chewings fescues are popular across Illinois. Creeping red is the only type that spreads by rhizomes; the others are bunchgrasses. Because of this, the bunch types will need reseeding when bare spots arise.
\n\n\n\nFine fescues do well when mixed with Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, especially in yards with partial shade. It can stand alone in partial shade areas, but a cool-season grass blend is more popular for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nNote: For more information on fine fescue, check out LawnLove’s guide.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Perennial Ryegrass
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
No one wants to wait for their grass seed to establish, which is why perennial ryegrass is so popular for temporary and permanent lawns. Seeds germinate in less than a week, providing a beautiful, medium to dark green lawn.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass has excellent wear tolerance, making it great for homes with children and pets even though, as a bunchgrass, it can’t self-repair. It prefers full sun but will tolerate areas of partial shade. A waxy coating on the blades makes lawn stripes stand out sharply.
\n\n\n\nWhile perennial ryegrass can be grown as a monostand, many people mix it with other grass species, such as Kentucky bluegrass (for improved cold tolerance) and fine fescue (for improved shade tolerance). It is the least cold-tolerant of all the cool-season grasses and may thin over time with prolonged exposure to temperatures below 30°F.
\n\n\n\nOne drawback of perennial ryegrass is that it requires a good bit of maintenance. If you dislike mowing or watering your lawn, perennial ryegrass may not be a good choice. On a positive note, this grass tolerates foot traffic well.
\n\n\n\nNote: For more information on perennial ryegrass, check out LawnLove’s guide.
\n\n\n\nTurfgrasses are classified as either cool-season or warm-season grasses, and it’s essential to understand the difference between them and ensure you’re planting the right type for your climate.
\n\n\n\nIn the Northern United States, most lawns are cool-season grasses. These grass types have adapted to colder temperatures. They start growing when temperatures are just above freezing (40 to 42°F) in early to mid-spring and stay green well into October or November, when they go dormant to survive being buried under snow.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses grow the most, producing the most biomass in the spring and late fall when soil and air temperatures are 65 to 75°F. Since they have adapted to survive below-zero climates, they aren’t as keen about hot summers. They do well when temperatures are milder but need more water when it’s hot to stay green.
\n\n\n\nConversely, warm-season grasses are better adapted to Southern climates and the summer heat. They are more drought-tolerant and grow best when temperatures soar but don’t grow as well in cooler conditions. Because of this, they have a shorter period when they are actively growing and don’t stay green as long.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to deciding between the different types, you have to consider factors that are specific to your yard.
\n\n\n\nWhen choosing a grass type for your Peoria yard, picking one that thrives in the space is essential.
\n\n\n\nIs your yard free of big trees and isn’t shaded by neighboring buildings, so it gets more than 6-8 hours of sun daily? If so, you need grass that grows in full sun.
\n\n\n\nIs your yard shaded by houses, fences, or large, mature trees? Does it get less than four hours of sun each day? If you’ve answered yes to these questions, you need grass that grows in full shade.
\n\n\n\nOr maybe your yard is a mix of both, and you need grass that thrives in all conditions.
\n\n\n\nGrass types for full sun:
\n\n\n\nGrass types for a combination of both sun and shade:
\n\n\n\nGrass types for shade:
\n\n\n\nDo children or pets play in the yard often? Do you love to throw backyard barbecues with friends and family? Then you’d be better off choosing a turf that tolerates high foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nIf your yard doesn’t see much traffic, you can choose grass with lower tolerance.
\n\n\n\nBest grass types for high-traffic areas:
\n\n\n\nBest grasses for low to moderate traffic:
\n\n\n\nYou also need to consider grass maintenance needs when choosing turf for your Peoria lawn. High-maintenance species are great if you like to putter in your yard and enjoy the work. But if you don’t like mowing, watering, and regularly fertilizing your grass, look for a low-maintenance type instead.
\n\n\n\nHigh-maintenance grass:
\n\n\n\nGrasses with a low or moderate maintenance level:
\n\n\n\nAcross much of Illinois, and the midwest in general, many homeowners prefer to grow a mixed lawn with two or more species planted together. This genetic diversity provides greater disease resistance, and turf is more adapted to growing in varied conditions such as part-sun or part-shade.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of the mixture you choose, having the dominant species fit your conditions is best.
\n\n\n\nThe goal with seeding—whether overseeding an existing lawn or starting one from scratch—is to get seed down just before your grass type goes into its active growth period. As mentioned, cool-season grasses grow the most in spring and late fall. So it’s best to plant grass seed between August 15 and October 1, giving your grass about six weeks to grow before the first fall frost.
\n\n\n\nThis timing ensures the conditions are suitable for germination: cool temperatures, warm soils, and frequent rainfall. Your new grass will sprout quickly and proliferate, giving the lawn a great start before temperatures drop. The more robust your grass is going into winter dormancy, the better it will fare.
\n\n\n\nYou may be scratching your head because you thought grass was best planted in spring. To help explain further, it is okay to plant cool-season grass in the spring just as your lawn goes into its spring growth flurry. But it isn’t the best time.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are better adapted to handle colder temperatures versus the heat. Therefore, it’s better to plant in the fall as the grass is going dormant for the winter versus in the spring with the stress of summer heat bearing down.
\n\n\n\nWhen you plant grass seed depends on your climate and the grass you’re growing. In northern regions, it’s best to plant cool-season grasses in the fall once hot summer temperatures have subsided. In the south, the optimal time to plant warm-season grasses is in the late spring as it is warming up.
The big difference between the two grass types is the climate they are best suited for. Warm-season grasses like hot summer temperatures and mild winters without snow; they grow mainly in the southern United States. Cool-season grasses like more temperate summers and can survive harsh winters; they grow primarily in the northern United States.
Fall seeding aims to get the grass seed down at least six weeks before your first fall hard freeze. This gives your grass time to establish before going dormant for the winter. You can plant later, but keep in mind you won’t see any growth when temperatures drop below 40 or 42°F. If you sow after this six-week window, you will still see germination, but the results may be lackluster.
Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass type grown mainly in the southern United States. It prefers hot summers and mild winters, which doesn’t match Illinois’ climate except in some of the southernmost counties of the state that are considered the transition zone. It’s also recommended to avoid growing it because it tends to invade row crops.
Even when you have a lot of information, choosing the right grass for your lawn can still be a big challenge. That’s where WikiLawn comes in to help! We want you to have the best, most beautiful lawn possible and provide assistance to help that happen.
If you need more support, contact our experts.
Main Image Credit: Pixabay
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\n","content":"\nLawn work is hard work, and the last thing you want is weeds to come and mess up your hard work. But knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let the wild violet’s charming name fool you! The wild violet (pictured above) grows quickly and aggressively and is resistant to a lot of weedkillers. You’ll usually find it in the shade, and it likes moist soil. It is a pretty plant, with waxy, heart-shaped leaves and small lavender-blue blossoms, but if you find it in your yard, you’ll probably get over its looks pretty quickly as it spreads. It is a perennial broadleaf weed with a long taproot, so you’ll want a weedkiller that targets broadleaf weeds, killing them but leaving your grass unharmed.
\n\n\n\nThe black medic is an annual clover and grows well in compacted soil. You’ll be able to tell black medic from other clovers because its pom-pom flowers are yellow. This weed often sprouts up next to sidewalks or other areas that are compacted by traffic. Getting rid of it may be as simple as aerating your lawn. It’s also easy to hand-weed, because black medic is a central-growing plant, making it easier to get at the root than other weeds. Chemical weed killers also do a good job of eradicating this plant.
\n\n\n\nCreeping charlie, aka ground ivy, is unmistakable. This weed has round, coin-shaped leaves with frilly edges. Minneapolis is not alone in the fight against creeping charlie; this is an invasive species that has made itself at home throughout much of the continental United States. If you catch it early, in the spring, you can pull it by hand — but make sure you get all of it because this is a fast and easy grower. If you catch it later, you might be better off putting down a fall herbicide in your lawn to completely eradicate creeping charlie.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/dandelion-flickr-1-1024x768.jpg\")
The dandelion has some uses — its leaves can be added to your salad and its central root can be dried and made into a tea. But for most people, the dandelion and its cheery yellow blossoms are a common weed, and one that can be hard to eliminate. If any part of the dandelion, especially that thick central taproot, is left behind, the plant can grow back and proliferate. Experts recommend pulling what you can, and feeding your lawn to make it thick enough to crowd out dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. Applying a pre-emergent weed killer in the spring will help keep dandelions to a minimum as well.
\n\n\n\nThere are dozens of weeds that will try to take advantage of Minneapolis’ sweet but all-too-short summer. This lists off some of the worst of them, so you can eradicate them quickly — and spend more time in your yard relaxing, instead of working.
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care information and tips? Be sure to check our Minneapolis lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Liz West, Flickr
Proper lawn care is more of an art than a chore. Nowhere is that more evident than in lawn edging. Your neighbor’s perfect lawn and crisp edges might make you jealous, but with a few simple tools, a little patience, and a lot of practice, you can achieve the clean lines of perfect edging. Here […]
\n","content":"\nProper lawn care is more of an art than a chore. Nowhere is that more evident than in lawn edging. Your neighbor’s perfect lawn and crisp edges might make you jealous, but with a few simple tools, a little patience, and a lot of practice, you can achieve the clean lines of perfect edging. Here are some DIY techniques professional landscapers use to give flower beds and walkways that manicured lawn look you envy.
\n\n\n\nString Trimmer: A quality power edger is an investment, so do your research and don’t skimp on this purchase. Gas trimmers are heavy but ideal for large yards, while electric trimmers are lighter and more eco-friendly. A straight shaft will give you a longer reach and better ability to cut curves than a curved shaft.
\n\n\n\nManual Edging Tool: This tool looks a little bit like a shovel but has a flat, half-moon edger blade. For small yards or an aversion to power tools, this tool is the answer.
\n\n\n\nManual Rotary Edger: This one looks like a stick with a spiky wheel at its end. The spikes are rotating blades that shear off grass in a line. Used to manually edge grass at the edge of sidewalks or other hardscape surfaces. Good for small lawns with thin-bladed grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nHand Shears: For the finishing touches, trimming grass in hard-to-mow spots.
\n\n\n\nGarden Hose or Rope: Use to mark out the edge if you are making new garden beds and need a guide.
\n\n\n\nA Plank of Wood: You’ll only need this if you are using a manual edger to do the job.
\n\n\n\nThere are only a few ways to go about edging a lawn: using a power edger or weed eater, using a manual edging tool, or a combination of both. String trimmers sometimes come with edger attachments that can make short work of overgrown grass spilling into walkways and flower beds. These power tools can make the job easier. They can also make a big mess of an edge in no time if you’re not skilled at using them. Here are some tips for both methods.
\n\n\n\nPower edging is more hardcore than manual edging and requires a little more caution. Follow these steps for a safe, successful experience:
\n\n\n\nMowing with a lawn mower is always the first step in edging. If you are edging in a straight line, you can use a board as a guide. Before you begin, make sure the blade is sharp. If it isn’t, grab a file and go to work.
\n\n\n\nWith your sharp tool in hand, lay your board along the outside of the straight edge you want to cut. Stand on top of the board with one foot to secure it, and then drive the half-moon edger a couple of inches into the turf, using the edge of the board as a guide. If you’re edging against pavers or a sidewalk, you may come up against the edge, cutting a wedge-shaped bit of turf and earth as you go. Rock the edging blade back and forth and then scoop out the grass and dirt you’ve cut away, depositing them out out of the way to be collected later.
\n\n\n\nKeep a consistent angle by using the board edge as a guide, and make sure the blade stays nice and sharp. Susan Harris of Behnke Nursery recommends edging garden beds to avoid high-maintenance mowing around pavers and stone borders. “It’s called a Victorian Trench,” she says. “It does what edging needs to do — holds back the lawn from the garden and the garden from the lawn — without being an eyesore in the garden.” If you’re manually edging along a curved edge, you’ll want to overlap your cuts and double your depth, cutting to a maximum of 6 inches. When you’re finished with flower bed edges, backfill the trench you’ve dug with mulch for a clean, weed-resistant edge.
\n\n\n\nWhile it may seem like a lot of work, edging, like aerating and fertilizing should be a part of your lawn care routine. It gives your yard a tidy, professionally managed look and feel, and instantly increases your curb appeal.
\n","title":"How to Edge a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/107df/jack-edging.jpg 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/293e9/jack-edging.jpg 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/f2cbb/jack-edging.jpg 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/356ef/jack-edging.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/67b76/jack-edging.webp 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/8df11/jack-edging.webp 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/98a65/jack-edging.webp 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/93f70/jack-edging.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Edge a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"2b7183e4-9697-5166-8807-77a5db938a4a","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-knoxville","path":"/lawn-care/tn/knoxville/spring-lawn-care-tips-knoxville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"985b5d1a-386d-5359-895c-ba65265ef522","name":"Knoxille","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/knoxville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"March 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"When you live in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains and have a front seat to the stunning Tennessee River, as Knoxville does, you have some of the best views in the world. But what’s the point of all that if the view of your yard from your front window is disappointing? Want a […]
\n","content":"\nWhen you live in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains and have a front seat to the stunning Tennessee River, as Knoxville does, you have some of the best views in the world. But what’s the point of all that if the view of your yard from your front window is disappointing?
\n\n\n\nWant a great view? It starts with some early-season work on your lawn. Here are 12 things you can do to give your lawn a huge boost this spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen spring starts, it’s time to get your lawn equipment ready. Check whether your lawn mower, weed eater, hedge trimmer, and leaf blower are in good shape.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how to prepare your lawn equipment for spring and the upcoming summer.
\n\n\n\nNeglecting your lawn equipment can be dangerous to your lawn by increasing the risk of disease in your grass.
\n\n\n\nWhen to sharpen your lawn mower blade
\n\n\n\nCut a patch of your lawn with your mower. If the grass looks uneven, the blade needs sharpening.
\n\n\n\nGenerally, you should sharpen your lawn mower blade at least a few times a year, especially before the first mow of the season.
\n\n\n\nHow to sharpen your lawn mower blade
\n\n\n\nThat’s it. Your lawn mower is all set.
\n\n\n\nFungi love springtime heat and humidity. When you notice faded spots in your lawn, take immediate action to prevent the spread.
\n\n\n\nHere are the diseases to watch out for in your Knoxville yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollar](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollar-Spot.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nDollar spot appears as straw-colored spots about the size of a dollar coin. A cottony white growth shows up on top of the grass in the morning.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot
\n\n\n\nYou may need to try several fungicides to eliminate this disease, as there are many strains of them. Each variety of the fungus can be immune to different kinds of fungicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"Snow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Snow-Mold.jpg\")
Photo Credit: noricum / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nThere are two kinds of snow mold – gray snow mold or Typhula blight, and pink snow mold or Fusarium patch. Gray snow mold appears as perfect circles or irregular patches. It tends to damage only the glass blades. Pink snow mold looks similar but has a pinkish tint. It’s more dangerous as it can damage both grass roots and blades.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat snow mold
\n\n\n\nRake the mold, then treat with a fungicide that includes azoxystrobin, bacillus subtilis, or propiconazole.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nBrown patch usually appears as circular or irregular-shaped patches of brown or gray grass on your lawn. These patches can range from just a few inches in size to several feet wide. The symptoms will usually show up by late spring.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch
\n\n\n\nUse a fungicide that includes triadimefon, PCNB, propiconazole, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl as one of its active ingredients.
\n\n\n\n![\"Two](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Raking-Leaves-on-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bigmouth1 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThough the weather is starting to warm up, the effect of winter is still there on your lawn. Remove debris, fallen branches, and dead plants from your yard to give your lawn a chance to breathe.
\n\n\n\nFallen leaves block your grass from receiving enough sunlight, water, air, and nutrients. You can also get rid of the thatch accumulated during winter by raking your yard. Raking your yard also splits grass blades and promotes straight grass growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of living and dead plant matter that accumulates on grass. When it’s too much, it can attract pests and diseases and prevent nutrients from reaching the soil.
\n\n\n\nRaking your lawn can remove some thatch, but, you may have to dethatch your yard using a vertimower or a thatching tool when you notice thatch exceeding an inch in thickness.
\n\n\n\nWhen to dethatch your lawn
\n\n\n\nThe best time to dethatch is when your grass is in its best shape. Warm-season grass is healthiest between late spring and early summer. Cool-season grass is in its best form between late summer and early fall.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinters are cold in Knoxville, and precipitation is high. A heavy downpour can wash away essential nutrients from the soil. Test your soil to know what’s missing and whether your soil is too acidic or alkaline.
\n\n\n\nIf your soil needs nutrients, you’ll need to add amendments like calcium, potassium, phosphorus, or magnesium. If you want to fertilize your soil, wait for at least a month to prevent any interactions between amendments and fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nWhen and how to test your soil
\n\n\n\nYou should test your soil at least once a year or before fertilizing your lawn. You may use a DIY kit to test your soil at home. However, we recommend you bring your soil to the local Extension office for a complete analysis.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow that you have tested your soil, you’ll know what your lawn needs. But what’s the best time to fertilize?
\n\n\n\nFertilize warm-season grass around mid-April. Fertilize cool-season grass during fall.
\n\n\n\nNitrogen is the primary component in most fertilizers as it’s the essential element needed for grass growth. Depending on your soil test result, you may also purchase a fertilizer rich in potassium or phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of the nutrients, always opt for slow-release fertilizers. Fast-release fertilizers can damage your grass and sometimes even burn it. Also, use a spreader to apply fertilizer evenly instead of using your hands.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: According to Colorado State University, fertilizing cool-season grass between March and April isn’t necessary if you have applied fertilizer the previous fall.
\n\n\n\nIf you have cool-season grass, you should avoid applying fertilizer too early as it can promote rapid growth. Rapid growth may sound great, but it’s harmful to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs your warm-season grass thinning? Overseeding can help. Overseeding is planting grass seeds over your existing lawn to fill bare spots and improve grass density.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: If there are just a few bare patches in your grass, a pest may be the culprit behind them. So, go ahead and eliminate it.
\n\n\n\nWhen to overseed
\n\n\n\nWe recommend you overseed after dethatching or aerating your lawn as it increases access to the soil. Also, ensure the newly seeded grass gets the right amount of water and fertilizer for healthy growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rawpixel
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s spring! Turn on your lawn mower and start mowing, but not before your grass is at least 2 inches high.
\n\n\n\nThe mowing height depends on your grass type. Here’s the recommended mowing height for the most common grasses in Knoxville.
\n\n\n\n| Grass type | Recommended height |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1 ¼ – 1 ½ inches |
| Buffalograss | 2 – 3 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 ½ – 3 inches |
| Creeping red fescue | 3 – 3 ½ inches |
Here are some lawn-mowing tips.
\n\n\n\n![\"Weeds](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weeds.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds aren’t good for your lawn. So, get rid of them. You can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weeds from germinating. The best time to use these products is between late winter and early spring.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Don’t apply pre-emergent herbicides when you overseed as it prevents the seeds from germinating. If you have applied a pre-emergent herbicide, you may have to wait between two and four months before you can overseed.
\n\n\n\nIf it’s too late to use a pre-emergent herbicide, and if weeds have already started to show up, apply a post-emergent herbicide. They only affect the weeds that have already germinated.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen spring arrives, it’s time to fight and win the battle against pests. Lawn pests in Knoxville usually reproduce during spring. Use pesticides to eliminate them before they reproduce.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend you avoid using catch-all pesticides as they are less effective and can harm beneficial insects, pets, and plants. Identify the pest in your yard and use a pesticide that targets it specifically.
\n\n\n\nHere are some lawn pests common to Knoxville.
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent pests from entering your lawn by watering your grass, fertilizing, and dethatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"cloe-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/3768077054_1a9fc5e9a5_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Mol / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWatering is necessary for a lush, green, and healthy lawn. The amount of water your yard requires depends on the grass. Keep in mind that watering too much and watering too little are both harmful to your yard.
\n\n\n\nLawns typically require between 1 and 1.5 inches of water a week during spring. Overwatering can attract fungi and weeds and even cause thatch to build up.
\n\n\n\nNote: Don’t forget to consider weekly rainfall when watering your lawn. Alter the amount of water accordingly to prevent overwatering.
\n\n\n\nIn some cases, your lawn may need more water. Here’s how you can tell:
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn early in the morning (before 10 a.m.) for the best efficiency. Don’t water at night, as the extra water remaining in the soil can attract pests and increase the risk of disease.
\n\n\n\nYou can use an automated irrigation system to ensure your yard gets the correct amount of water at the right time.
\n\n\n\n![\"Aeration](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDon’t aerate your lawn during spring. Instead, wait for the summer to aerate warm-season grasses and winter to aerate cool-season grasses. Aerate your yard once a year for the best results.
\n\n\n\nAeration refers to creating holes in the ground to give roots easier access to air, water, and other nutrients. When you aerate your lawn during spring, those holes can be a lovely place for weeds to thrive.
\n\n\n\nKnoxville is a part of the transition zone, meaning our summers are hot and winters are cold. That doesn’t mean you can’t have a great lawn in Marble City. You just have to put in the time and effort in spring to get your yard going strong for the later months.
\n\n\n\nRaking debris, fertilizing, dethatching, and watering are all great ways to prepare your yard for the summer.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to have a lush and healthy lawn without breaking a sweat, Wikilawn Knoxville lawn care experts can help. We can also create a fantastic landscape for your home to create a better living environment for your family and increase the value of your home.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brian Stansberry / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n","title":"12 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Knoxville, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7118402282453637,"src":"/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/1789c/Knoxville-House.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/107df/Knoxville-House.jpg 320w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/293e9/Knoxville-House.jpg 500w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/f2cbb/Knoxville-House.jpg 800w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/1789c/Knoxville-House.jpg 960w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/c26c2/Knoxville-House.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/1dd6e/Knoxville-House.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/67b76/Knoxville-House.webp 320w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/8df11/Knoxville-House.webp 500w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/98a65/Knoxville-House.webp 800w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/1dd6e/Knoxville-House.webp 960w,\n/static/bb471d84d9e830d179681277b1d2ec42/3cc96/Knoxville-House.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"12 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Knoxville, TN","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you want a great lawn this year, it pays to get a good jump on it in the spring. Here’s what you should do."}}},{"node":{"id":"db4bbe6f-b5b3-5704-b201-6f49ba0d1a10","slug":"native-plants-in-minneapolis","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/native-plants-in-minneapolis/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Descendant of the Fulani tribe, Gettysburg-obsessed Marine Corps brat, and lover of all things writing and editing, Andréa Butler has penned articles for Sesi magazine and sites, such as LivingSocial, Talbot Digital, Xickle, and Rachel Ray. Andréa holds a B.A. in English from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and an M.A. in magazine journalism from Kent State University.","name":"Andréa Butler","id":"dae2e109-3ba9-5073-a19a-e341e567190e","path":"/author/andrea-butler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c671545b46efb40d2596d32a775f26a1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"August 5th, 2019","excerpt":"These are the flowers that have grown here before the first European settlers arrived. Here are some popular native wildflowers, shrubs and trees in Minneapolis.
\n","content":"\nYou love checking out the arts scene and getting a bite to eat over by Central and Lowry, but your most favorite pastime in all the City of Lakes is taking in the wildflower garden at Theodore Wirth Regional Park. Emulate those relaxing vibes by planting your own native garden at home. We’ve rounded up 9 of the best native plants for Minneapolis to start you off.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Northern-Blazing-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Doug McGrady / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSprouting from stems with spiral, narrow, green leaves that are larger at the base and smaller toward the top, these wildflowers give off disc-shaped blooms of pink, purple, or white that grow on a cylindrical ‘spike’, making them the perfect addition to butterfly gardens and drought-tolerant gardens.
\n\n\n\nWith 40-plus species — including “Rough Blazing Star” (liatris aspera) and Meadow Blazing Star (liatris ligulistylis) — there’s sure to be a type fit for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly for new plants; once established water as needed; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 5 feet, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow, green leaves with a spiral look; larger at stem’s bottom, smaller toward the top
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Prairie_Onion_13182350343.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Justin Meissen / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nNamed for the oniony scent that comes from its grasslike leaves, the prairie onion is a totally edible plant that’s easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and resistant to deer and rabbits. Blooming from a solitary stem, the up to 2-inch round, umbrella-shaped cluster of lavender-pink or white flowers displays its beauty for three weeks, typically in July and August. Plant with low-growing selections, as prairie onions do not grow well with taller, more invasive species.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained; sandy, rocky, silt
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Oniony smell
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Occasionally, when soil is dry; otherwise, regular rain should be sufficient
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow and grasslike; emits the onion smell
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, resistant to deer and rabbits
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5992418976_afc9bf5fe7_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Headquarters / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nConsidered fully established by year two of growth from seed, wild bergamot can be naturally found along roadsides, in meadows, and on prairies. It’s easy to grow and unbothered by invasive plants and poor soil conditions. Prized for its rounded clumps of tubular blooms that exhibit purple, pink, or white flowers from June to August, this plant will for sure bring all the bees (hummingbirds and butterflies) to the yard.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Shallow, rocky soil or clay that’s moist, well-drained, or dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: A blend of mint and oregano emitted from foliage
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Natural rainfall should be sufficient; withstands dry soil for a while
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green to grayish-silver with serrated edges; hairy underside, while top can be smooth or hairy; edible
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, deer- and rabbit-resistant
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/black-eyed-susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nBecause they bloom throughout the spring and summer, black-eyed Susans are ideal for planting as pathway borders, in container gardens, or in butterfly gardens. Due to their coarse, hairy leaf texture, these plants are naturally deer-resistant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, sand, loam, acidic, moist, well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Depending on growing conditions can act as a biennial, annual, or short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring, summer, early autumn
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium. It has moderate drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. Can self-seed freely. Black-eyed Susan can become aggressive if given too perfect an environment and insufficient competition.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red_Columbine_3630187830.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jason Hollinger / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nKnown for its red or yellow bell-shaped blossoms, this perennial flowers from May to July. While there’s no scent to this plant, its nectar attracts hummingbirds, bees, and other pollinators. Ideal for rock gardens, shade gardens, and as an accent plant, red columbine is resistant to deer and most insects; however, leafminers may cause cosmetic damage and duskywing caterpillars can be found feeding on the blue-green leaves.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly or whenever soil is completely dry
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Blue-green leaves grow in groups of three
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; deadhead blooms as needed, cut back in late summer
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Amorpha_fruticosa_kz05.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAn ornamental shrub, false indigo works great as a privacy screen/windbreaker or border plant. Easy-to-grow from seed and deer-resistant — deer don’t like the velvety texture of the oblong leaves — this plant gives off purple, blue, or gold/yellow flowers from April to June and attracts butterflies and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil; moist or somewhat wet to somewhat dry
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Light, vanilla scent
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 4 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Oblong green or gray/silver leaves that are velvety to the touch
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May contain alkaloids that are poisonous to animals
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; prune in late winter to early spring to maintain shape
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Geranium_maculatum_11zz.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nFrequently chosen as a ground cover plant, wild geranium’s star-shaped blooms, which show themselves from May through June, mainly come in lavender, blue, red, and pink, fading to white at the base. Groundcover plants can take the place of traditional lawn grass, making for a low-maintenance yard that not only cuts the need for mowing but also helps control erosion and weeds. Wild geranium attracts pollinators, too, and you can even make tea from its flowers.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering ground cover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 11
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, or somewhat wet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green, compound, hand-shaped leaves with serrated edges; hairy on both sides
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/1118557967_739ba55795_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anna / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLong used as flavoring in salads and teas (plus, its seeds can be used to bake cakes, cookies, and muffins), blue giant hyssop heralds the arrival of summer with tall spikes that bear clusters of blue or purple blooms, punctuated by green-gray leaves with serrated edges. In addition to being cold-hardy, this perennial attracts pollinators but repels deer and rabbits.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Silt, shallow rocky, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; similar to anise or licorice
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer through fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low/infrequent
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green with gray, hairy underside and serrated edges
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5127417271_cac902529b_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for an end-of-summer showstopper, New England aster is the one to pick. Blooming from August through October, this native wildflower can grow 6 feet tall and sprouts ostentatious, ray flowers outfitted with up to 100 individual purple or pink petals surrounding a yellow, button center. Perfect for rain gardens and butterfly gardens, New England aster also boasts oblong leaves that are rough to the touch on top with a soft underside of fine hairs.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay or high organic matter that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; of turpentine when crushed
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer and fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium; water well in the absence of rain
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 7 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green oblong leaves; top layer rough to touch/underside is soft and covered in fine hairs
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: N/A; nontoxic
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low once established; deer-resistant
\n\n\n\nBesides assessing your yard for sunlight, soil conditions, and existing plant life, you can find inspiration for specific types of native plants that’ll thrive in your yard by visiting local sites (like Wood Lake Nature Center and Nokomis Naturescape Garden), studying local planting books/magazines, and consulting with a nearby landscaping expert.
\n\n\n\nFirmly situated in USDA Hardiness Zone 4b, Minneapolis can have extreme lows of -25 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter months. Native plants are adapted to this type of climate; however, if you plan to include any non-native specimens in your garden, definitely double check the climate zones they can survive in before planting.
\n\n\n\nSince our final frost typically isn’t until late May, it’s best to hold off on planting until June. Be sure to check the guidelines of the specific plants you’re looking to install in your landscape, though, too–– they’ll give a more precise timeline.
Choosing to cultivate a native plant garden (one that only grows plants that occur naturally in the geographic area) helps preserve biodiversity. A few other benefits:
• Keeps plants thriving, as they’re already accustomed to area growing conditions
• Conserves water because native plants can generally do well with local rainfall patterns
• Deep roots prevent soil compaction/recycle stormwater runoff
• Attracts pollinators — native bees, hummingbirds, etc. already know which local plants provide the food they need
Native plants are adapted to the rainfall of the region and are pretty low maintenance when it comes to watering. During a plant’s first growing season, water weekly; after that, area rainfall should be sufficient, as native plants are typically drought-tolerant.
There are more than 2,100 plants native to Minnesota alone, and there’s a bevy of garden stores nearby that stay stocked with them — from goldenrod and honeysuckle to penstemon, sedges, spiderwort, and all the ones detailed above. Here are just a few spot to get your shopping started:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve purchased your haul, consult a local lawn care pro to keep your yard looking gorgeous. They’ll assist with mowing, edging, hedge trimming, leaf removal, and the like, so nothing will overshadow your native plant garden. Then, sit back and enjoy the beautiful colors, scents, and pollinating visitors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Black Eyed Susan / Garry Knight / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Best Native Plants for Minneapolis","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1789c/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/107df/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/293e9/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/f2cbb/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1789c/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/c26c2/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1dd6e/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/67b76/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/8df11/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/98a65/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1dd6e/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/3cc96/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Best Native Plants for Minneapolis | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want to create a thriving, low maintenance garden? Check out the native plants in minneapolis that need little water or care to brighten up your landscape."}}},{"node":{"id":"065e2a35-ea48-5bf5-932c-bcfd21221180","slug":"low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-virginia","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/low-maintenance-landscaping-ideas-virginia/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Based in the south of France, Jeffery holds a master of science degree from the International University of Monaco. His hobbies include hiking, cycling, and traveling across Europe.","name":"Jeffery Keusseyan","id":"75c05140-c87e-540a-8d34-da174527f4cc","path":"/author/jeffery-keusseyan/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/12a7b239a959b7f6feee4e4b9495d63f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"}],"date":"May 15th, 2023","excerpt":"We all have plenty of reasons to love life in the Old Dominion, from its moderate climate to the stunning work of mother nature. We would rather spend our free time exploring the state parks, botanical gardens, or arboretums. However, spending hours on landscape maintenance and backyard chores will take up most of that time. […]
\n","content":"\nWe all have plenty of reasons to love life in the Old Dominion, from its moderate climate to the stunning work of mother nature. We would rather spend our free time exploring the state parks, botanical gardens, or arboretums. However, spending hours on landscape maintenance and backyard chores will take up most of that time. Spend your weekends relaxing with 7 low-maintenance landscaping ideas for Virginia.
\n\n\n\nWith a low-maintenance landscape design, you can reduce the amount of work, watering, weeding, and mowing required to upkeep your lawn. From hardscape features to automatic irrigation systems, we have come up with a list of ideas for an attractive yard while reducing the amount of maintenance required.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Hardscaped](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hardscaping.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHardscapes are naturally low-maintenance landscaping features that improve your outdoor space functions. Given they are non-living elements, hardscaping features won’t require any watering, pruning, or fertilizing.
\n\n\n\nHowever, they would still require the occasional cleaning and care. Consulting a professional landscaping company or hiring a pro will help you pick the right feature, and ensure minimal maintenance throughout the year.
\n\n\n\nSome examples of low-maintenance hardscaping features include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost depends on the project size and the type of feature you choose. Expect to pay between $2,100 and $6,000 for a pergola, $5,365 and $9,025 for a gazebo, $1,140 and $3,690 for a water feature.
\n\n\n\n![\"Xeriscaped](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Xeriscape-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: teofilo / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe aim of xeriscaping is to use as little water as possible, while still maintaining an attractive and eco-friendly landscape. It helps you create a beautiful and cost-effective backyard with barely any chores to complain about.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, xeriscaping is a wildlife-friendly approach, as it can attract beneficial insects and pollinators. If you have enough experience, you can save money by making it a DIY project, but installation can be back-breaking work.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping has become very popular over the years, helping you reduce the amount of water used by 50% to 75%.
\n\n\n\nBelow are some examples of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of xeriscaping ranges from $5 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/4608457413_921dff2b0e_c-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rachel Kramer / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApplying mulch is an easy, cheap way to keep your garden healthy and hydrated. It is used to suppress weeds, retain moisture in the soil, and keep the soil cool. It can also help make your garden bed look more attractive. Fortunately, spreading mulch around your plants is a simple DIY task. There are two types of mulch for you to choose from:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The amount you spend on mulch depends on which type you choose. Wood mulch costs between $3 to $5 per 2 cubic foot bag, while landscape gravel costs between $4 to $30 per 0.5 cubic foot bag.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Asclepias_tuberosa_2015-07-01_3812.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Salicyna / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNative plants grow naturally in Virginia, as they are accustomed to the state’s climate and soil conditions. They usually need little care to survive, though may require the occasional pruning. Native plants help keep the local ecosystem healthy, and provide a source of food for critters and wildlife. Be sure to conduct thorough research before selecting plants for your lawn, such as the area’s plant hardiness zone.
\n\n\n\nThere are plenty of Virginia-native plants, including low-maintenance shrubs, for you to choose from. Below are some examples:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Depending on the plant’s type and size, expect to pay between $600 and $3,000 per flower bed, $150 and $3,000 per tree, $25 and $50 per shrub.
\n\n\n\n![\"Eastern](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Eastern-Redbud.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Plant Image Library / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennials are a great way for you to obtain a low-maintenance landscape. Unlike annuals or biennials, perennials live for several years and require little care once established. In addition to adding beauty to your landscape, these plants will prevent you from having to buy new plants every year!
\n\n\n\nVirginia lies between USDA plant hardiness zones 5a and 8a. Be sure to pick the right plants that can thrive in your region.
\n\n\n\nSome perennials for your low-maintenance lawn:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of perennials:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of perennials depends on the plant’s size, type, and whether you hire a pro to complete the landscaping project. On average, a perennial plant will cost you between $10 and $100.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis type of irrigation system is programmed to automatically water areas of the yard with a specific amount of water. You may also set a specific time and duration for the system to switch on. With this type of technology, you can maintain a healthy lawn without manually watering the grass or plants yourself.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of automatic irrigation systems:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Hiring a landscape contractor to install an irrigation system will cost you between $2,000 and $4,900, depending on your yard size and the system you choose.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Artificial-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Nick Bastian / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere may not be a clear winner in the debate between synthetic and natural turf, but synthetic grass will stay green all year round with minimal work. Over the years, artificial turf has become a popular low-maintenance landscaping option. It can withstand heavy foot traffic, and reduces the need for fertilizers and pesticides. Synthetic grass may appear very life-like that your envious neighbors won’t be able to tell the difference!
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of artificial turf:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: On average, the cost of getting artificial turf professionally installed ranges from $5 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to boosting the local ecosystem, a low-maintenance landscape may benefit homeowners just as much. Native plants such as trees will absorb CO2 and release oxygen into the air, contributing to a better quality of air. Low-maintenance landscaping may also help reduce allergens, such as mold and pollen.
Groundcovers are low-growing plants that are a valuable addition to your low-maintenance landscape. They keep your yard green and full. Replacing turfgrass areas with groundcovers means less time spent on watering, mowing, and other maintenance work, just like low-maintenance plants or native trees.
Advantages of groundcovers:
• Retain moisture in soil, help prevent erosion
• Attract beneficial insects
• Reduce the use of chemical herbicides
• Improve your lawn’s visual appeal
• Lower maintenance requirements than grass
Here are some Virginia-native groundcovers for your low-maintenance garden:
• Green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)
• Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)
• Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens)
• Eastern teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens)
Virginia lies in the transition zone, so it’s tough to pick one grass type for every lawn in the state. Both cool- and warm-season grasses can thrive in this state, given its hot summers and moderately cold winters. However, we will recommend two low-maintenance grass types based on which region in Virginia you reside in.
If you live in a warm region, such as Tidewater, then centipedegrass is the best way to go. This warm-season grass is called ‘lazy man’s grass’ because it requires less maintenance and mowing than other warm-season turfgrasses.
On the other hand, tall fescue is a bunch-type grass that can thrive in almost every region across the state, such as Northern Virginia. It is the most heat-tolerant cool-season grass, and has a decent heat and drought tolerance. It does not produce significant thatch, though may still require the occasional mowing.
Check out our guide on the best grass types for Virginia to learn more about the grasses that thrive in your region.
\n\n\n\nWith all of the ideas mentioned above, it may seem like the right time to transform your backyard into a low-maintenance landscape. However, there are a few things to keep in mind before getting started on the project. Always consider the local climate, soil type, native plants, and other key factors to get a beautiful and sustainable backyard.
\n\n\n\nSome hardscaping features may have a high initial cost, but they will prove to be a worthwhile investment over time. Low-maintenance landscaping can save you plenty of time, support the local ecosystem, and improve your home’s curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn might still require the occasional mowing, pruning, or trimming. Looking for a Virginia lawn care pro near you? We have trusted lawn care pros in Chesapeake, Norfolk, Richmond, Alexandria, and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Michel Rathwell / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nThe praying mantis is the state insect of Connecticut. While not native to North America, this predatory relative of the cockroach is a symbol of the state’s natural beauty and its commitment to protecting its environment. Situated east of New York, Connecticut’s spring temperatures, ranging from 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, bring praying mantises and residents outdoors. Execute our 10 spring lawn care tips and take advantage of the pleasant weather to prepare your yard for the dry summer just around the corner.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nConnecticut sits on the northernmost border of the transition zone. While cool-season grasses are best suited to the New England climate, warm-season Zoysiagrass varieties also grow well in their soils. Spring weather in Connecticut is unpredictable. There is usually snow or frost in March, and temperatures average 43 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually increasing to 75 by late May and setting off the active growing season for many Connecticut native plants.
\n\n\n\nConnecticuters care for their warm or cool-season grasses from March to May, hoping to encourage fresh growth before the dry heat takes over in the summer. Spring lawn care is more than mowing your lawn and setting the timer on your irrigation system. As your yard goes through its active growing season, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots. With the proper spring maintenance plan, your lawn will be ready to take on the Connecticut summer.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/800px-Dethatcher2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nWith an average snowfall of 37 inches, Connecticut winters are freezing and wet, causing warm-season grass cultivars and even some cool-season cultivars to go dormant and develop thatch. Thatch is the tight layer of dead grass intertwined with living grass blades and roots that accumulates just above your soil level and below eye line visibility. A thin layer of thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nWatch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Aim to dethatch your lawn during its growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately.
\n\n\n\nConnecticut warm-season grass cultivar, Zoysiagrass, grows in late spring and summer. Cool-season varieties such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their green-up phases in early spring and again in the fall. It is important to understand your grass variety. Dethatch your warm-season lawn in mid-spring to early summer and save your cool-season cultivar dethatching session for fall.
\n\n\n\nConnecticut receives around 45 inches of rain per year, well over the national average of 38 inches. Springtime is notoriously wet and unpredictable in the Nutmeg State with precipitation occurring in 31% of the days. Aeration is a common method to introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. There are two types of common aeration: spike aeration and core aeration. Aim to aerate your New England lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: mid-spring to early summer for Zoysiagrass and early fall for cool-season varieties like Kentucky Bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators remove plugs of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for Connecticut’s soil varieties, including loose stones and gravel, rich saturated soils, alluvial sediments, disturbed loams, and gravelly sands. These acidic soils decrease nutrients, plant production, and water use and make soils more vulnerable to decline and erosion. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, creating airflow, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators create small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Check-Your-Soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nPlants and turfgrasses growing in moist, acidic soil require regular fertilization. Spring soil preparation is crucial to the success of your Connecticut landscape. Proper preparation provides nutrients for your grass to thrive, even in the deficient soils of New England. Residents should send in a soil sample for testing in March or September.
\n\n\n\nMail in a one-cup sample, collected and combined from different areas of your lawn, to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances and nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\nTall grass blades develop deeper roots and a dense appearance. Healthy lawns resist insects, weeds, and diseases. Mowing is necessary for maintenance, but it stresses your turfgrass, leaving it more susceptible to pests, drought, and sunscald. Connecticut’s unpredictable, wet springs kick-start the active growing season for most plants and turfgrasses in mid to late March.
\n\n\n\nYour grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height. To avoid injuring your lawn, never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade regardless of your cultivar. and always cut less, more often. You should mow weekly during the active growing season and aim to mow every two weeks during your turfgrass’ off-season.
\n\n\n\nAlways mow within the recommended range for your grass type and leave clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
Zoysiagrass is a low-maintenance, warm-season cultivar that goes dormant during Connecticut’s winter months. Growth peaks in summer, but the active growing season begins in late spring. Aim to mow every seven to 10 days to maintain a mowing height between 0.75 to 1.5 inches and encourage deeper roots and a more dense and resilient turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Connecticut turfgrasses include fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Unlike Zoysiagrass, these cultivars remain green through most winter months but can go dormant during hot, dry months in the summer.
\n\n\n\nActive growth for cool-season varieties peaks in the early spring and fall. Mow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during early spring. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Man-watering.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nUnless your lawn is brand new, all grass varieties respond well to the typical conditions of a Connecticut spring. The best watering method for turfgrasses is as needed early in the morning, starting in May. It is true what they say about April showers bringing May flowers. April in the Nutmeg State is wet, typically providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all varieties twice per week, aiming for one-half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\nConnecticut’s humid continental climate wouldn’t be complete without wet spring weather, creating the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health and maintenance plan. They thrive in acidic, low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning damaged turf.
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your grass and spread pests and diseases. The best control and prevention method is routine maintenance, coupled with supplemental chemical methods like post-emergent herbicides and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides minimize the number of weeds in your yard by killing seeds before germination. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in April before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit to control grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nA common method used by savvy Connecticuters is to watch for your neighborhood’s Forsythia to bloom. These shrubs are the first to bloom, signaling the arrival of spring and microbial activity in the soil. When you see the bright yellow blooms, it is time to put down your pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nLook for solutions containing prodiamine, dithiopyr, benefin, or pendimethalin. Wait 30 to 60 days and apply a second application of pre-emergent herbicide in mid to late May or June.
\n\n\n\nCommon grassy weeds in Connecticut include:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides target annual and perennial broadleaf weeds, disrupting their growth. Use these herbicides year-round to target weeds you can see.
\n\n\n\nDo not use post-emergent herbicides if temperatures rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or if your lawn is moisture stressed. Additionally, be sure to wait a few days after a fresh mow before applying chemical treatments.
\n\n\n\nCommon perennial and annual broadleaf weeds include:
\n\n\n\nDifferent insects invade particular grass cultivars at different times. The most common Connecticut springtime pests include white grubs, sod webworms, armyworms, cutworms, and chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nArmyworms and cutworms include the larvae and pupae of several species of nocturnal lawn-damaging moths. These insects cause significant spring damage. Watch for brown or yellow areas of dead grass that have been chewed to the ground. Patches appear and spread quickly, increasing the bird population in your yard.
\n\n\n\nTreat armyworms and cutworms with chemical insecticides containing pyrethroids or carbaryl. Prevent these devastating insects by avoiding overfertilization and maintaining your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs affect any dense Connecticut turfgrass. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity. These foliage-seeking insects suck vital plant juices from your turfgrass until fall with peak activity beginning in May.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nLike armyworms, sod webworms are the nocturnal larvae of lawn moths. These pests feed on grass blades and create tunnels just below your lawn’s surface. Sod webworms attack most grass cultivars, preferring fescues and Kentucky bluegrass. Watch for small brown spots of dead turfgrass that rapidly increase in size during dry spells. Treat sod webworms with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs are the larval form of several species of beetles, including Japanese and Scarab beetles. These small white pests feed on turfgrass roots. Keep an eye out for wilting, brown grass blades and an increased bird population.
\n\n\n\nControl white grubs with proper lawn maintenance, irrigation, and aeration. Treat the larval pests with chemical applications. For lawns with a history of white grub activity, apply chlorantraniliprole for prevention in May. For active infestations, use an insecticide designed for white grubs, but keep in mind these chemicals also harm beneficial insects like pollinators.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollar](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/dollar-spot-bentgrass-800-646x443.jpg\")
Dollar spot symptoms on creeping bentgrass
Photo credit: Glenobear | Wikimedia Commons | Public domain
Lawn diseases and fungi love Connecticut’s humid continental climate. The best defense against these lawn invaders is routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization for a healthy and dense lawn. Some of the most common diseases affecting the Constitution State’s turfgrasses are large patch, powdery mildew, dollar spot, rust, and snow mold.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus affecting many Connecticut turfgrasses, including ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue. The fungus typically occurs in May and lasts through the end of summer in cool-season cultivars. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter.
\n\n\n\nMost large patch infestations do not respond to fungicide applications. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage and air movement. Monitor patches and limit fertilization in affected areas. Avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and Zoysiagrass. It is caused by a fungus living in Connecticut soils. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins in spring through fall.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nPowdery mildew affects Kentucky bluegrass in the cool, wet months of early spring. This fungus produces a white or gray, powdery growth on grass blades. Watch for yellow areas of dying turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat powdery mildew with proper lawn maintenance and fungicide applications. Remove thatch, avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active, and monitor and fix drainage issues. Avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus active in spring through fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf. Rust affects most Connecticut turfgrasses, including bluegrass, ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat this turfgrass disease using a fungicide, and prevent the fungus with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions.
\n\n\n\nPink and gray snow molds are winter-dwelling fungi that attack Connecticut turfgrasses. They thrive under snow and during cold winter rains. Watch for irregular patches of dead, matted grass ranging from three to 12 inches in diameter in March after the frost and snow melt. Grass will take on a pink-to-white or gray-to-white color depending on the species of snow mold.
\n\n\n\nTreat snow mold by raking affected areas to remove matted grass and organic debris. Overseed the area to fill bare spots and stimulate growth. Prevent the disease by paying attention to the timing of your fall fertilizer application for your cool-season turfgrass. Always aim to fertilize earlier in the fall to avoid a late-season growth spurt which increases your lawn’s chance of developing snow mold.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time to seed your warm-season lawn in Connecticut, while fall is the best time to seed cool-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Zoysiagrass is a low-maintenance, warm-season cultivar that responds well to spring overseeding in bare areas.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Connecticut lawn in May by tilling patchy areas. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass also responds well to sod plugs. Plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart and water well daily. Keep crabgrass at bay by applying a root-safe pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tree](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/rsz_pixnio-46833-800x550-1.jpg\")
Photo credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply fertilizer to your Connecticut turfgrass is April or May, depending on your grass type. Fertilizer promotes healthy growth. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your turfgrass cultivar and your unique soil sample analysis results.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that Connecticut soils are acidic, typically ranging from a pH of 4.8 to 5.5. These conditions make vital nutrients like phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium less available to plants, making fertilizer applications important in New England states.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 15-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass only needs one spring fertilizer application. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around April 15, but keep in mind that shaded grass requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass need two spring fertilizer applications to prepare the turfgrasses for the hot summer temperatures. Aim to apply 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around April 15. Apply a second round of fertilizer around May 15.
\n\n\n\nUse sprinklers or an automatic irrigation system to apply water in 10- to 20-minute segments, once per day, until the seeds have germinated. The germination process typically takes three weeks in Connecticut. Be sure to skip watering sessions if it rains.
Fertilize after overseeding your warm-season grass. Apply a slow-release fertilizer immediately after overseeding or wait two to three weeks and apply a fast-release fertilizer to your newly seeded lawn.
Spring weather in the Nutmeg State is unpredictable. It is typically wet, but even droughts have occurred. Generally, there is no need to supplement Mother Nature during Connecticut springs.
Overwatering your turfgrass stresses your lawn, leading to increased pests and diseases. Watch for these signs you are overwatering your turfgrass:
● Thick layer of thatch over ¾ inch thick
● Fungus growth including mushrooms
● Increased weed growth, including crabgrass and nutsedge
● Signs of pest activity
● Spongy grass and footprint indents
● Pooling water and increased runoff
Connecticut is a nature lover’s dream with its green hills, lush gardens, moist forests, cherry blossoms, and pristine beaches. With the proper spring lawn care schedule, you can get your lawn ready for summer and save yourself time so you can spend more of it outdoors.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help identifying a pest or lawn disease, contact a Connecticut lawn care pro to help your landscape recover and establish deep roots.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Sphilbrick / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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\n","content":"\nAs anyone who loves to spend the day in the garden knows one of the greatest senses of accomplishment can be leading a friend or loved one to find their own personal joy in the art and science of home gardening. This, of course, extends to the children and young adults in our lives. But with so many distractions in today’s modern life how can we best instill our love and passion that comes along with gardening?
Fortunately, the Orlando, Florida climate allows for a year-round growing season of all kinds of engaging plants that provide outdoor visual interest as well as introducing youngsters to the beauty and gratification that comes with gardening.
\n\n\n\nGet them started early. Young children often want to do everything the adults are doing. Help start their love of the outdoors and all things growing early by bringing them out with you when you garden. Infants and young children will love being in the fresh air and enjoy the sensory stimulation that comes with the outdoors. Let them play in the soil alongside you as you prepare your planting beds or help get them exploring the vibrant colors and smells of the summer blooms and foliage.
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/liana-mikah-665127-unsplash.jpg?fit=683%2C1024&ssl=1\")
Learn more than gardening. Creating special tasks for your young ones can help keep them engaged when doing tedious tasks in the garden. Making a game of something as simple as digging holes for new plants or picking off the spent flower heads can teach valuable lessons in fine motor skills as well as the rewards of perseverance.
\n\n\n\nCitrus & Fruit Trees. Florida is known as the Citrus State for good reason. Why not bring the delicious reward of growing your own sweet treat right on your patio? Choose from the numerous varieties available at your local garden center and pick out a non-porous pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom to get started. At home, place your new tree in a sunny spot that you and your children can easily watch for signs of growth. Soon enough your family will be enjoying the benefits of homegrown citrus trees, from the glossy evergreen foliage, intoxicating floral fragrance of the delicate white blooms, and the ultimate payoff: letting your little ones do the picking of fresh fruit from your tree.
\n\n\n\nVegetables- A Kid’s New Best Friend. It may be cliche, but getting your kids to eat a full serving of their vegetables might be more common than an Orlando snowstorm in July. However, a vegetable hand-picked from your own garden tastes better than anything you can buy in a store. Coupled with the excitement of planting, watching grow, and the excitement of harvesting, kids are sure to have a new appreciation for their veggies. And here in Florida home gardeners can grow a variety of vegetables all year long. Home gardens are a convenient source for healthy foods and will encourage you and your family to eat more fresh vegetables too. The choices are endless, with vegetables of all sizes, colors, and shapes. If you think that the Florida summer heat and humidity
A Small Handful of Big Flowers. As adults, we often think of our landscapes and gardens as carefully curated pieces of living art. We place a high value on perfectly formed blooms or the intricate patterning on a delicate stem of foliage. But for children, rows, and rows of beautiful blooms are a tempting treat almost too exciting to resist. If you have little ones that are eager to garden but you fear possible damage to your formal landscape consider creating a designated area for your kids to be able to explore nature in their own backyard. Choose from a few of these Orlando kid-friendly choices and watch your littles’ engagement with nature skyrocket.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/stanislav-stajer-73392-unsplash.jpg?fit=1024%2C680&ssl=1\")
Sunflowers are probably the most traditional seeds to give kids. They germinate so easily, you can have kids start the seeds indoors to see how fast they sprout, then move seedlings out to the garden. Kids will stay engaged with the growing process as they grow big and tall. When the season is over, they can harvest the seeds for themselves or watch as the birds come to eat them up! There are so many varieties to pick, from mammoth stalks that grow more than 10 feet high to miniature puffy teddy-bear cultivars. Hit the seed aisle at the garden center to pick your favorite.
These tough succulents are multitaskers when it comes to having a plant that both adults and kids will love. Super trendy succulents are easy to find in most garden centers and since they propagate by leaf dropping or small cuttings of stems they are a great, inexpensive, way to teach kids about plant growth habits. Being one of the more forgiving plants out there, Hens and Chicks succulent are almost impossible to kill. They love lots of sun or light shade and can be planted in the ground or in a pot. Just be sure to not over water. Kids might even want to get creative and make use of these plants in their miniature or fairy gardens.
An often overlooked plant that does well in the central Florida area is the Lamb’s Ear. It gets its descriptive name from the iconic lamb’s ear shape and ultra soft, woolly mint green leaves. Adding these low growing plants along a planting bed border will bring an underused color to your planting bed and also offers little fingers a chance to touch the unique leaves. Plus, they bloom from early summer to mid-fall so you can enjoy them for many months.
\n\n\n\nHave any questions about gardening or lawn care? Visit our Orlando page for more information!
\n\n\n\nTop Photo by Kyle Ellefson on Unsplash
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