![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Nannyberry-1.jpg\")
The Vacationland is homeland to you; even still, you need not venture far to appreciate your state’s natural beauty. Inspired by the Wild Gardens of Acadia, your latest project is cultivating a bed of native plants in your own Maine landscape. To start you off on this quest, we’ve gathered 11 best native plants for […]
\n","content":"\nThe Vacationland is homeland to you; even still, you need not venture far to appreciate your state’s natural beauty. Inspired by the Wild Gardens of Acadia, your latest project is cultivating a bed of native plants in your own Maine landscape. To start you off on this quest, we’ve gathered 11 best native plants for Maine, just waiting to take root near you.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Doug McGrady / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe flashy white flowers of this perennial bloom in May, followed by an autumn to winter season of color-changing leaves and berries— leaves turn burgundy while the edible berries go from green to yellow to red to deep blue. Perfect for growing as a natural privacy screen or specimen plant, this drought- and pollution-tolerant native attracts caterpillars, moths, birds, and other pollinators but repels deer.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 2 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or part shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam, sand, moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Early summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nMature height: 10 to 20 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous; glossy, dark green leaves turn burgundy in fall; too much shade may cause milder
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Medium; prune after flowering and water regularly until established; no need to fertilize
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pagoda-Dogwood-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Michele Dorsey Walfred / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nNamed for its resemblance to a pagoda temple — its branches grow in similarly structured horizontal layers — the pagoda dogwood produces perfumed, white blooms and blue or purple berries in spring and summer, respectively. Plant it as a specimen tree, or pair it with maples, beeches, birches, or serviceberries.
\n\n\n\nOffering year–round interest, as well (the leaves turn yellow, red, and orange in autumn), this native selection is tolerant of pollution and attracts all kinds of pollinators. Keep a lookout though, as it’s susceptible to canker, twig blight, and leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained, nutrient-rich, acidic; sandy, loamy, clay
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Early summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low; water regularly until established and then only during drought
\n\n\n\nMature height: 12 to 20 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous; turn red, yellow, and orange in fall
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Common-Milkweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAs Maine is the final summer destination for monarch butterflies’ annual migration from Mexico, common milkweed is an especially important native plant that can help fight the decline of these butterflies’ populations. This native wildflower provides a place for monarchs to lay their eggs and gives off round, ball-like clusters of purple or pink flowers each summer.
\n\n\n\nSince common milkweed spreads swiftly via rhizomes, it’s best planted in naturalized areas, so it doesn’t become invasive in your traditional garden.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Wildflower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Chalk, clay, loam, sand
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweetly scented
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low, average
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Oval, green leaves with hairy underside; release milky substance when crushed
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic if ingested
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/New-England-Aster-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Midwest Region / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nThis native selection, ideal as a garden mass planting for displays of fall color brought on by pink or purple ray flowers surrounding a yellow center, is perfect for attracting various pollinators.
\n\n\n\nAble to thrive in a range of soil types, New England aster is pretty low maintenance when it comes to water needs; it likes things moist but can tolerate some dry soils. To keep this tall-growing flower on the shorter side, prune stems in early summer. If provided the right amount of sunlight, water, and overall care, this plant can live up to 10 years.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained, acidic, clay, sandy, loamy; poorly-drained clay soils may cause aster wilt
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Late summer, autumn
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green leaves
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; vulnerable to powdery mildew. Cut back stems in mid-summer to avoid staking and to produce more flowers.
\n\n\n\n![\"closoeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Northern-Bayberry.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Famartin / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis wide-growing, rounded shrub generates inconspicuous gold, yellow, or green blooms in spring. Come summer and through the following spring, whitish-gray berries grow from the stems, providing a food source for birds. The fruits’ waxy finish is also used in candles and soaps.
\n\n\n\nNorthern bayberry can live up to 30 years and is best used as a specimen plant, hedge, or foundation plant. It’s excellent at preventing erosion and is resistant to deer, salt, drought, heat, compacted soil, and seasonal flooding, so it’s easy for beginners to grow.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 6
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Sandy, rocky, acidic; well-drained with high organic matter
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Whole plant scented when crushed; peppery and woody scent
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low; water regularly until established
\n\n\n\nMature height: 6 to 12 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous to semi-evergreen; fragrant, dark green, shiny leaves
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bearberry.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andrew Curtis / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nDrought-tolerant, this low-growing groundcover is a prime pick for a xeriscaped yard. In mid-spring, pink, bell-shaped flowers will spring forth, while summer sees the emergence of red berries that last through fall.
\n\n\n\nAdding to the year-round interest are the dark green leaves that turn burgundy from fall through winter. This native plant, which can live up to 20 years, is also resistant to salt and pollution and can work well in an ornamental, butterfly, rock, or winter garden.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Evergreen shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 2 to 6
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Sandy, acidic; can be dry or moist but no standing water; susceptible to yellowing leaves if not acidic enough
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Autumn leaves/pine
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Early spring to early summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMature height: Up to 8 inches
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen; glossy and round, turns from green to burgundy in autumn
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Arbutin in foliage hinders melanin production/can lighten skin
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; tolerant of drought, salt, and pollution
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red_Columbine_3630187830-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jason Hollinger / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFrom spring through summer, this perennial produces downward-hanging, umbrella-shaped blossoms that are red and yellow. Post-bloom, red columbine reseeds on its own and goes dormant as some of its leaves turn pink or purple before falling off. Although this plant has no noticeable aroma, hummingbirds, bees, and other pollinators are drawn to its nectar. Red columbine is a great accent plant for rock gardens and coastal sites, as it is salt-tolerant. Duskywing caterpillars and columbine leafminers feed on the leaves, but don’t cause any actual harm to the plant’s health.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly or whenever soil is completely dry
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Blue-green leaves grow in groups of three
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; deadhead blooms as needed, cut back in late summer
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Northern-Bush-Honeysuckle.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nUnlike the nonnative, “true” honeysuckle plants, Northern bush honeysuckle is not invasive and has no scent. It does, however, have similar trumpet-shaped, yellow flowers that grow in pairs or triplets. Drought-resistant, it serves well as a privacy screen or mass planting and can endure dry and seasonally flooded conditions. Northern bush honeysuckle attracts a variety of pollinators, including bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Not particular; grows in range of soil types and withstands dry and seasonally flooded soils
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low, average
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Burgundy spring new growth; pointy leaves become green and copper as they mature; turns yellow-orange or reddish-purple in fall
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Berries are mildly poisonous to humans.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; prune in late winter
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Scarlet-Elder.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Algirdas / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nScarlet elder (aka red elderberry) produces memorable white, floral-scented, cone-shaped blooms that can thrive in wet soil, full sun, and partial shade. This plant’s calling card also includes clusters of red berries, which serve as food for several species of birds.
\n\n\n\nNaturally able to manage erosion, scarlet elder makes for a fantastic hedge when planted alongside other shrubs, like winterberry and witch hazel. It also draws its fair share of pollinators.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Flowers have floral scent; leaves have unpleasant, stinky odor when crushed
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium; water well in the absence of rain
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 9 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green with serrated edges and hairy underside
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Seeds are poisonous; raw berries are toxic
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Medium; prune to contain spread
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Rosebay-Rhododendron.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: SB Johnny / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nRosebay rhododendron grows nicely in shade gardens and as border plantings underneath heavily canopied areas of hemlocks, pines, and maples. This broadleaf evergreen boasts dark, blue-green leaves that curl up to protect themselves from cold weather and prominent pink, white, or lavender flowers that grow in bell-shaped clusters.
\n\n\n\nBest as an ornamental planting in a cool, shady yard, this native perennial is not OK with drought, heat, or salt and is susceptible to canker, crown rot, root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf spot, to name a few.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf evergreen shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full shade or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist, acidic, well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nMature height: 20 to 35 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen; leathery feel; dark, blue-green in color
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to humans, pets, horses, and other animals if ingested.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Medium
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chokecherry-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis attractive shrub, which bears white flowers, dark red berries, and green leaves, is a favorite of racoons — they love feasting on the ripened berry clusters. Also edible to humans, the fruits have been described by many as dry and “astringent.” However, taste is much improved when dried or cooked and turned into wine, jams, or jellies. Be careful not to eat the seeds, though; they are toxic. Chokecherry serves as a host to Eastern tent caterpillars, and when crushed, the twigs emit an unsavory, bittersweet smell.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist, limestone-based, sand, loam, clay
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Unpleasant bittersweet smell when twigs are crushed
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous; oval, bright green in color; serrated edges
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring to summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\nMature height: 30 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Leaves, bark, stem, and seed pit are poisonous/harmful to livestock
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; prune late winter to early spring
\n\n\n\nStart by assessing the conditions of your property, including the amount of sun it gets, the type of soil, and the existing plant life. Then, find out what specific native plants will be the best fit, considering what purpose you’d like each plant to have (specimen, groundcover, traditional garden, etc.).
\n\n\n\nFor oodles of inspiration, look for ideas at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, Charlotte Rhoades Park and Butterfly Garden, Viles Arboretum, or the Henry Wadsworth Longfellow House and Gardens, among others.
\n\n\n\nMaine’s climate includes super cold and snowy winters, with lows hovering around 15 degrees, and mild summers, with highs averaging around 70 degrees. The entire state falls within hardiness zones 3 to 6.
\n\n\n\nOther native planting options include (but are not limited to):
\n\n\n\nIn Maine, September is the ideal time to plant natives, when not planting from seed. This allows the already-sprouted plants to establish a root system in time for winter dormancy. If planting from seed, wait until December, as this is the time when plant self-seeding naturally occurs.
Planting natives has a number of benefits, including:
● being noninvasive
● preserving biodiversity
● being naturally adapted to soil/weather conditions
● providing shelter/food for wildlife and pollinators
● using less water
● requiring less fertilization (if any)
The only turfgrass native to Maine is red fescue; however, there are a variety of native ornamental grasses you can try:
● switchgrass (panicum virgatum)
● yellow prairie grass (sorghastrum nutans)
● Canada wild rye (elymus canadensis)
● little bluestem (schizachyrium scoparium)
Maine is home to approximately 1,500 native plants, and the Wild Seed Project is a popular destination for learning about and purchasing various species of native trees, wildflowers, vines, shrubs, and grasses. Search its native plant finder for details.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, local lawn care professionals can provide yard care assistance via mowing, trimming, and edging the landscape. We have trusted lawn care pros in Scarborough, Wells, and many other cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
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\n","content":"\nSpring doesn’t always feel like spring in Cleveland, where temperatures can vary wildly and you might have to deal with the fluffy white stuff as late as April.
\n\n\n\nBut if you want a great lawn this summer and deep into the fall, this is the time to put the work in. Here are our 13 tips to turn your Cleveland lawn into a mini heaven.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Rake debris, remove dead plants, and clear fallen branches to help your lawn breathe more effectively. Removing debris also removes the barriers that block your grass from getting the nutrients it needs. Raking can split your grass blades, promoting straight grass growth.
\n\n\n\nAnd let’s face it, a yard without debris looks better any day. It also gives you a blank canvas for mowing, fertilizing, and performing other lawn activities.
\n\n\n\nNote: It’s nearly impossible to avoid thatch altogether as it keeps building up. Thatch less than an inch in thickness isn’t an issue and can actually be beneficial to your lawn as it provides nutrients for grass growth, protects the grass from damage, and helps preserve moisture in the soil.
\n\n\n\nIf there’s too much thatch on your lawn and raking doesn’t seem to help, dethatching is the solution.
\n\n\n\nAlright, but what’s thatch? Thatch is the grass clippings and leaves that accumulate in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAs mentioned above, thatch less an inch in thickness can be good for your lawn. But anything more than that can be too much because excessive thatch can attract pests, cause diseases, and deprive your grass of nutrients.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is necessary before aerating it. But even if your yard doesn’t need aerating, we recommend you dethatch it at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nWhat’s the best time to dethatch lawns
\n\n\n\nYou should dethatch your lawn when the grass is actively growing. The best time to dethatch cool-season grass is from late summer to early fall. If you have warm-season grass, you can dethatch it between late spring and early summer.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland struggle with diseased lawns. Fungus loves Cleveland’s humid climate, which is why the city ranks No. 3 among the worst U.S. cities for weeds and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nThe beginning of spring is the best time for fungi to attack your lawn, so, take these precautionary steps to eliminate fungi at their source.
\n\n\n\nHere are the common Cleveland lawn diseases you should be aware of.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nPythium blight appears as small circular patches about a foot in diameter. The infected grasses show up as cottony white material. They appear clearly when the grass is wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium blight
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn, then treat it with a fungicide that includes mefenoxam or propamocarb.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nBrown patch appears as circular brownish-yellow patches between a few inches and several feet in diameter. Tall fescue grasses are more susceptible to brown patch than other grasses.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch
\n\n\n\nYou can use a fungicide that includes PCNB, propiconazole, triadimefon, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl as one of its active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for
\n\n\n\nRed thread appears as pinkish-red patches that can be anywhere between two inches and two feet in diameter. They won’t usually kill your grass but can increase the susceptibility of your lawn to other diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat red thread
\n\n\n\nApply nitrogen fertilizer, water the grass, and mow your lawn. You may also apply fungicides, but they won’t be effective if you don’t maintain your yard correctly, as the disease will most likely return.
\n\n\n\nWell, you have treated lawn diseases and removed debris from your lawn. That’s great! But, if your grass still looks thin and has unattractive patches, you may have to overseed your yard.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is the process of spreading grass seeds over your existing lawn to improve grass density and fill in the patches. You should overseed your yard after aerating or dethatching it as it increases the access to soil.
\n\n\n\nMany homeowners in Cleveland prefer cool-season grasses because of the climate, and early fall is the best time to plant cool-season grass seeds.
\n\n\n\nWhen you plant grass seeds in early fall, they get about three months to grow before winter starts. When spring kicks in, the soil temperature increases, thus accelerating the growth of grass. Before summer, the grass will have strongly established its roots to handle the stress.
\n\n\n\nLast but not least, ensure the newly planted grass seeds get sufficient water and fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: If only a few bare patches are in your yard, it may be because of a pest. So, before you overseed, ensure that a lawn pest isn’t causing the issue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Test-your-Soil.jpg\")
You should test your soil to know whether it contains the essential nutrients for your grass. You may test the soil yourself using a DIY kit or send it to the local soil testing laboratories.
\n\n\n\nMany Cleveland homeowners tend to test their soil before fertilizing their lawns. It’s a good practice to test your soil at least once a year.
\n\n\n\nDepending on the soil test result, add amendments such as potassium, magnesium, calcium, or phosphorus to your soil. Also, if you plan to fertilize, wait for at least four to five weeks so the fertilizer and amendments won’t negatively interact with each other.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn as your grass turns green and starts growing. This is typically in early spring (between March and April). You should avoid fertilizing too early, especially if you have cool-season grass, as it can promote rapid growth, which is bad for your yard.
\n\n\n\nYour soil test will tell you what kind of slow-release fertilizer to purchase. Generally, most fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in different percentages, as they are essential nutrients for plant growth.
\n\n\n\nFast-release fertilizers can make your grass grow quicker, but they can damage it. Sometimes, they can even burn it. Also, don’t spread fertilizers by hand. Instead, use a spreader to apply them evenly.
\n\n\n\nThe general recommendation is to fertilize your yard four times a year with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Here’s how to calculate how many pounds of fertilizer your lawn needs.
\n\n\n\nThis formula may sound complex, but it’s easy when you apply it practically. Make sure not to overfertilize your lawn, as it can damage the grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Equipment.jpg\")
Winter has come to an end. Spring has begun. Now it’s time to get your lawn mower and other equipment ready to bring your yard back into shape.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a checklist to bring your lawn mower back to form.
\n\n\n\nFollow these steps to sharpen your lawn mower blade.
\n\n\n\nDon’t forget to check if your hedge trimmer blades are sharp enough and weed eater has enough line.
\n\n\n\nTurn on your lawn mower and start mowing your lawn as soon as you notice your grass has hit 2 inches of height.
\n\n\n\nThe mowing height depends on your grass type. Here’s the recommended mowing height for common grasses in Cleveland.
\n\n\n\n| Grass type | Recommended height |
| Fine fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 ½ – 3 ½ inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 1 ½ – 2 ½ inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 ½ – 3 inches |
Follow these tips for a perfect mow.
\n\n\n\nToo much or too little water can both harm your lawn. Overwatering can make your yard susceptible to pests and disease. It can also cause shallow root growth and excessive thatch buildup.
\n\n\n\nUnderwatering will cause your lawn to lose its color. If your grass is turning gray and footprints linger because the grass doesn’t bounce back quickly, you should water.
\n\n\n\nCleveland lawns generally require about two inches of water each week. However, the exact amount depends on the type of grass. Don’t forget to consider the rainfall for that week when watering.
\n\n\n\nFor the best efficiency, water your lawn in the morning before 9 a.m. If you water your yard at night, the extra water will remain in the soil, making your grass more susceptible to disease.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend you set up an automated irrigation system to make sure your lawn gets the right amount of water at the correct time.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the season when weeds start growing. It’s essential that you get rid of them to keep your lawn in good shape.
\n\n\n\nRemember the good old days when you have to pull the weeds with your hands? It’s a fun experience, but it can be a pain when there are too many weeds. Now, you don’t have to worry about removing the weeds yourself, thanks to pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nApply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds before they germinate. Early spring (around April) is the best time to apply pre-emergents to your Cleveland lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to overseed your lawn after applying pre-emergents, wait for at least four months, as they prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nIf you have already started to notice weeds on your lawn, it may be too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. In this case, go for post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Pests-in-Lawn-1.jpg\")
Prevention is better than cure. You can keep pests away from your lawn by correctly watering the grass, fertilizing, and dethatching.
\n\n\n\nBut! It’s practically impossible to avoid pests altogether. These pesky pests will somehow make their way into your yard. Spring is usually the time when lawn pests reproduce. Eliminate them before they get time to lay and fertilize their eggs.
\n\n\n\nHere are the pests common to Cleveland lawns.
\n\n\n\nSome of these pests only damage your lawn. But some can attack humans too. So, if you spot these pesky creatures in your yard, take immediate action.
\n\n\n\nUse pesticides that target the specific pest in your yard. Avoid catch-all pesticides as they are less effective and can harm beneficial insects and plants.
\n\n\n\nIt’s usually better to seek the help of a professional to get rid of pests, as some can be very aggressive and harmful to humans.
\n\n\n\nAeration is the process of perforating your soil with holes to allow air, water, and other nutrients to reach the roots easily. Generally, we recommend you aerate your lawn once a year.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to aerate the grass is when it grows. As most homeowners in Cleveland have cool-season grass, early spring can be the best time to aerate your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Aerate your lawn a day after you water your grass. It’s easier to aerate when the soil is moist.
\n\n\n\nA lawn without clean gutters isn’t perfect. So, don’t neglect cleaning your gutters. Here’s why:
\n\n\n\nSpring is the time of the year when your lawn needs your care again. Get your yard back to shape to enjoy the weekends with your family in your home.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re on a busy work schedule and don’t want to spend your weekends doing lawn chores, don’t worry. Wikilawn Cleveland lawn care experts can help you with everything needed to make your lawn lush and beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxfuel
\n","title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5056461731493098,"src":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/107df/Lawn-Care.jpg 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/293e9/Lawn-Care.jpg 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/f2cbb/Lawn-Care.jpg 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1789c/Lawn-Care.jpg 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/c26c2/Lawn-Care.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/67b76/Lawn-Care.webp 320w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/8df11/Lawn-Care.webp 500w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/98a65/Lawn-Care.webp 800w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/1dd6e/Lawn-Care.webp 960w,\n/static/bada0a601e8603d898d206aa66f90f05/3cc96/Lawn-Care.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"13 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Cleveland, OH | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When spring starts, your lawn needs your help again. Follow these tips to make your yard the place you desire the most."}}},{"node":{"id":"c18abcd2-b362-5c6e-a2e6-f72f7d0d0c9a","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/fall-lawn-care-checklist-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 13th, 2023","excerpt":"The cooler weather in the fall is a relief for many Jacksonville residents. Goodbye, high AC bills — hello, pumpkin-flavored everything! You may be able to navigate Conner’s A-Maize-ing Acres like a pro but feel lost when it comes to lawn care. Florida’s warm-season lawns slow their growth in fall. When winter rolls around, they […]
\n","content":"\nThe cooler weather in the fall is a relief for many Jacksonville residents. Goodbye, high AC bills — hello, pumpkin-flavored everything! You may be able to navigate Conner’s A-Maize-ing Acres like a pro but feel lost when it comes to lawn care.
\n\n\n\nFlorida’s warm-season lawns slow their growth in fall. When winter rolls around, they could stay green or turn brown and dormant — both are normal for North Florida. Though your yard work won’t be as sweaty this time of year, setting your lawn up for success before winter is still essential. Pull out your calendar and follow this fall lawn care checklist for Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nYou may be tempted to put away your lawn care tools and leave your turf alone until the next growing season. However, that choice could make your spring lawn care much more challenging. Here’s how your lawn benefits from fall lawn care:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJacksonville’s many deciduous plants drop their leaves as the weather cools in the fall. While those leaves are pretty, too many could smother your lawn. There are a few ways you could deal with them:
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDirt may seem simple on the surface, but it’s anything but that. Soil contains most of the nutrients your grass needs. If you understand what’s already in your soil, you can choose the appropriate fertilizer and soil amendments to help your lawn thrive.
\n\n\n\nOne thing soil tests cover is pH. Soil that is too acidic or alkaline isn’t a friendly environment for your turf and could interfere with proper nutrient absorption. Acidity and alkalinity are measured on a pH scale of 1 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral — anything above that number is alkaline, and anything below is acidic.
\n\n\n\nFlorida’s average soil pH is 6.1, meaning it’s slightly acidic. However, your soil pH could be higher if you live close to the ocean because shell materials are alkaline. Building materials can also make the soil more alkaline.
\n\n\n\nHere are the pH preferences for the common Jacksonville turfgrasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Preferred pH Range |
| Bahiagrass | 5.5-6.5 |
| Bermudagrass | 6-6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5-6 |
| St. Augustinegrass | 6-7.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6-6.5 |
To find out soil pH and nutrient levels, get a soil test from the Duval County Extension Office or another soil testing lab. Use their recommendations when purchasing fertilizer so you don’t oversaturate the soil with nutrients your grass doesn’t need. If your soil pH is too unbalanced, they may recommend soil amendments (lime for acidic soils and sulfur for alkaline soils).
\n\n\n\nSoil tests can take a few weeks to process, so plan accordingly if you want to know your results before fall fertilization. You don’t need to soil test every year, but it can be helpful if:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gloves,](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ruth Hartnup from Vancouver, Canada / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHave you been keeping track of the weed population in your yard? Weeds compete for the same water, nutrients, and sun as your turfgrass. They also can make your lawn look uneven and lower curb appeal. A healthy, thick lawn can outcompete weeds, but sometimes you must intervene.
\n\n\n\nThere are three ways to deal with Jacksonville weeds:
\n\n\n\nManual control: With some gloves and trusty tools, you can pull out weeds by hand. This method is environmentally friendly and won’t harm newly planted grass. However, you need to remove the entire weed. If you leave any roots, tubers, or seeds, the weeds may come back.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides: Once you see the weeds, you can spray them with post-emergent herbicides to kill them. Always follow label directions carefully to keep your other plants safe and ensure the herbicide is compatible with your grass type.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides: This product prevents weeds from germinating. Use pre-emergent herbicides to get ahead of annual weeds so they’ll never have a chance to deface your lawn. However, they can also kill young grass, so don’t use them if you plan to overseed your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWant to know what weeds to expect in your Jacksonville lawn? Let’s break them down based on lifecycle and learn the best treatment methods.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year, though they’ll likely leave enough seeds to spawn another generation next year. Summer annual weeds begin their lifecycle in spring, flourish in summer, and die off in fall. You may find some stragglers in the fall that you can treat with post-emergent herbicides or let them die naturally.
\n\n\n\nSummer annuals in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nSimilarly to their summer counterparts, winter annuals have a three-season lifecycle. They germinate in the fall, do well in winter, and die off by the spring.
\n\n\n\nYou still have time to prevent these weeds if you apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early October. Wait for nighttime temperatures to dip to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for several nights in a row, then apply one or two times according to package instructions.
\n\n\n\nHere are some winter annuals you may find in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nWith a two-year lifespan, biennials can be more challenging to get rid of than short-lived annuals. They won’t flower in the first year, but they’re ready to bloom and spread seeds by the second year. Though they die soon after spreading seeds, you’ll have to deal with their offspring for the next two years. Treat them with herbicides before they flower, if possible.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of biennials in Florida:
\n\n\n\nPerennials are the longest-lasting weeds of all, with a lifespan of three or more years. If you don’t get rid of them, they’ll make themselves at home and reseed themselves year after year. Treat them with post-emergent herbicides in the fall before they hunker down for the winter.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials to look for in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Fall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Fall-Armyworm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: uacescomm / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour lawn needs to be in good shape while it takes a break from growing, and the last thing it needs is to be munched on by pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in the fall:
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: These green or brown caterpillars with dark heads eat all types of turfgrass. Fall armyworms are especially problematic in new grass that’s been heavily fertilized in late summer. You may notice the adult moths fluttering around the area. Treat with pesticides, though remember these products may harm their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nSod webworms: Adult tropical sod webworms peak in October and November. Their larvae feed on all types of warm-season grass leaves. Though this pest may leave during North Florida’s colder winters, the damage it creates in fall can leave your lawn in bad shape for the season. Keep thatch levels low to eliminate hiding spots and treat affected areas with insecticides.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: Yellow, easy-to-pull-up grass is a sign something is eating your turf’s roots, and the culprit may be white grubs. These beetle larvae target all kinds of turfgrass. Damage is easiest to spot in late summer and early fall. Apply treatment before they retreat underground later in the fall.
\n\n\n\nContact the University of Florida’s Insect ID Lab for assistance if you find an insect and can’t identify it.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollar](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollar-Spot.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA slow-growing lawn may be less able to fight sickness, so treating diseases before they get out of hand is vital. Here are some diseases to watch for in the fall:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nAlso known as brown patch, this fungal disease creates round, discolored sections on turfgrass. It often affects Zoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass, but all warm-season grasses can fall victim. Watch for it when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit from November through May.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nAvoid overwatering and excessive nitrogen applications to discourage large patch. If necessary, treat with fungicides. Turfgrass can best recover when it’s actively growing in spring or summer.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nSmall, beige or white lesions on the grass will eventually cause straw-colored patches the size of a silver dollar or larger on your lawn. Dollar spot can affect any warm-season grass, especially lawns with dry soil and nitrogen deficiency.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nMaintain proper cultural practices like watering, mowing, fertilizing, dethatching, and aerating. Don’t mow the grass too low — your grass could become more vulnerable to dollar spot. Apply nitrogen fertilizer lightly and frequently to build resistance without overfertilizing. Use chemical control if cultural control is unsuccessful.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is the only warm-season grass that suffers from gray leaf spot. It slows growth and thins out lawns. Though this disease thrives most in rainy spring and summer, it extends into September since temperatures are between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Look for light spots with dark brown borders on your grass’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nMinimize stress and avoid over-watering to prevent the moist environment that this disease loves. Excessive nitrogen also can encourage gray leaf spot. Be careful when applying the herbicide atrazine, as it can worsen the disease. Fungicides are best applied preventatively, so consider them for next spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough this disease can strike any time of year, it’s most common during the mild, wet seasons of fall and winter. Helminthosporium leaf spot starts as brown or purple pin-sized spots and develops into lesions with pale centers. Infected leaves may turn purple or reddish brown before withering to a light tan shade. It can affect all warm-season grass types but is worst on bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Helminthosporium leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nAvoid excessive nitrogen applications by following soil test recommendations. A ratio of 1:2 for nitrogen and potassium is best. You also can apply slow-release or quick-release potassium to boost your grass’ resistance. Raise mowing height to help grass fight this disease. Several fungicide options are available if needed.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nPythium root rot causes discolored and thinning grass. Though it’s easiest to observe symptoms on the leaves, the root of the problem is underground and harder to see. Roots will be thin and discolored. All warm-season grasses can be affected by pythium root rot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium root rot:
\n\n\n\nImprove drainage and avoid overwatering. To deal with the excess moisture from rainfall, mow high and avoid removing more than one-third of the grass blade at once so you don’t stress your turf. Balance nitrogen and potassium applications, with extra potassium in early fall for lawns commonly affected by pythium root rot. Apply fungicides if necessary.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe slow growth and cool weather in late fall to early spring encourage this disease, while warm weather drives it away. Wet leaves trigger the infection, which causes yellow dots that turn into orange pustules that release spores when touched. Look for rust in St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and any lawn you overseed with perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat rust:
\n\n\n\nRust more severely affects grass with nutrient deficiencies or in shady areas. Follow soil test results to see what your grass needs, and apply a slow-release fertilizer. Keep the grass in shady areas as dry as possible. Use fungicides if cultural control isn’t sufficient.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough it’s sometimes called Bermudagrass decline, take-all root rot affects all warm-season grasses. It is caused by stressed turfgrass and excessive rainfall and prevents grass from adequately absorbing water and nutrients. You may notice some leaf discoloration, but the black, rotten roots are the best way to identify the disease.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat take-all root rot:
\n\n\n\nAlleviate stress and maintain proper mowing habits. An equal balance of slow-release nitrogen and potassium will help grass resist the disease. Micronutrients like manganese also may help. Keep in mind that the disease is hard to treat by the time symptoms are visible aboveground. Fungicides are most effective as a preventative measure.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhile South Florida lawns may stay green all year, North Florida lawns usually turn brown during dormancy. If you want it to stay green, you could overseed with cool-season grass in fall.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass grows fast, is cheap, and will die off in spring, so it doesn’t compete with your usual grass. You can overseed any warm-season grass except centipedegrass, as it could cause centipedegrass decline. Here are the steps you’d need to take:
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Overseeding works best if you dethatched your lawn in spring.
\n\n\n\nRemember, if you choose this route, you’re signing up for extra lawn maintenance. You’ll need to water frequently while it germinates. Consider specialized turf paint if you want an easier way to keep your lawn green. Of course, the easiest option is to let nature take its course and wait out your brown lawn.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Pre-emergent herbicides can kill young ryegrass. Consider whether you’d prefer to overseed for winter color or deal with weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour lawn can best utilize fertilizer when it’s actively growing in spring and summer. However, your grass may still benefit from a high-potassium fertilizer in fall. Fertilizers with slow-release nitrogen are better for your grass because they don’t release too many nutrients at once. Since many soils in Florida are high in phosphorus, use a fertilizer with little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nDon’t fertilize your lawn any later than September. It could promote a growth spurt, and new growth will be more sensitive to cold. There’s no need to fertilize dormant grass, either.
\n\n\n\nCan you skip fall fertilization? Sure — just wait until spring. The spring application will help your grass recover from winter and start the growing season strong.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-15.jpg\")
Photo Credit: lutavia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grass stops growing when air and soil temps are below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. While you may need to mow throughout the fall, the slowed growth means you’ll need to rev up the mower less and less frequently.
\n\n\n\nThough it may be tempting to mow low, your grass can better survive stressors if mowed high. Here are the recommended mowing heights for the grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Only cut off one-third of the grass blade at a time. Removing more can damage grass and make it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and weeds. If you want to change your mowing height, it’s best to adjust it gradually.
\n\n\n\n![\"Small](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/water-sprinkler-e1680265702957.jpg\")
Lawns in Jacksonville generally need watering once or twice a week in the fall, but by winter, you can water as little as once every two to three weeks. Rain will provide for some of your grass’ needs. However, you’ll need to cover the rest with supplemental irrigation. Here are some watering tips:
\n\n\n\nThe University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences recommends irrigation on an as-needed basis to reduce overwatering. Look for the following signs of dehydration:
\n\n\n\n![\"Tools](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Organized-Shed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: woodleywonderworks / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs the end of fall approaches, you may reach for your mower and weed eater less or not at all. If you’re ready to retire your equipment for the year, make sure it’s in good condition before you do so.
\n\n\n\nRemember, you may still need these tools if you decide to overseed your lawn for winter color. It’s still a good idea to complete some maintenance, though.
\n\n\n\nNeither. Grass that’s too short can be vulnerable to diseases and weeds, while extra-long grass can look unruly and provide a haven for pests. Keep your grass in the middle, following the recommended mowing height for each grass type. It’s also best to mow your grass as you usually do for the last mow of the season.
It’s better to aerate your lawn in spring. Why? Though beneficial, aeration is an invasive procedure that your lawn needs time to heal from. Aerating in fall could leave your lawn weak going into winter. Wait until spring to get the best benefits and harm your lawn the least.
No. Winterizer fertilizer is a bad fit for Florida lawns because it often contains too much nitrogen. Instead, look for a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer. Here are some suitable NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) ratios:
• 9-2-24
• 5-2-14
• 8-2-34
• 5-0-22
No. These products are usually too general to meet the specific needs of different homeowners’ lawns. Like many cure-alls, it may not be as effective as advertised. The best way to fertilize and control weeds is to follow your soil test results and create a game plan based on the specific weeds you encounter.
Lawn care checklists are helpful, but they aren’t always fun. After all, you still have to haul out the lawn supplies and put reminders in your calendar for crucial tasks. Wouldn’t you rather spend your weekend trying the new fall flavors at Whit’s Frozen Custard? Consider professional lawn care services if you’d rather keep your free time free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ventura Ave House / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/1789c/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg","srcSet":"/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/107df/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg 320w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/293e9/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg 500w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/f2cbb/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg 800w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/1789c/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg 960w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/c26c2/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/1dd6e/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/67b76/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp 320w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/8df11/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp 500w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/98a65/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp 800w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/1dd6e/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp 960w,\n/static/adb4a30d671832a55688f51280285197/3cc96/Jax-FL-7207-Ventura-Ave-House.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Jacksonville, FL","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Fall means less yard work, but you’re not off the hook yet. Go through this fall lawn care checklist for Jacksonville."}}},{"node":{"id":"26d53bc6-c3de-5cc7-a448-9e03696d4b47","slug":"lawn-mowing-maintenance-columbus","path":"/lawn-care/oh/columbus/lawn-mowing-maintenance-columbus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5eab8b19-684d-573f-929d-53dda702846c","name":"Columbus","count":9,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/columbus/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"August 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Your beautiful Central Ohio home is a source of pride and joy. Part of that joy is the sometimes-overwhelming task of yard care. Lawn mowing and maintenance in Columbus is, at the very least, a weekly chore — whether you do it yourself or hire a lawn service. Mowing, weeding, fertilizing, aerating … it’s all […]
\n","content":"\nYour beautiful Central Ohio home is a source of pride and joy. Part of that joy is the sometimes-overwhelming task of yard care. Lawn mowing and maintenance in Columbus is, at the very least, a weekly chore — whether you do it yourself or hire a lawn service. Mowing, weeding, fertilizing, aerating … it’s all a piece of the puzzle that comes with owning a house or rental property.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are suitable for Columbus lawns because they can handle our cold winters. Chances are your turf consists of Kentucky bluegrass (KBG) – or a blend of KBG and perennial ryegrass, tall fescue or Buffalograss.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/c0m7Y3fthxqXa0hb0CNGUJ-8_L06QP5VtKXDihlDKJMOmUc1oUfXH1vsXQKpDem0MPLK4ellVHBlq9zF9EYxtGuJwE-uP8zpQytxx2jElgaFVzZhf3u8NS_suukto6XEpOG2utNq\")
If you’re reseeding or replacing a lawn in Franklin County, The Ohio State University Extension recommends having the soil tested to determine the best cool-season grass for your lawn. Geographical location, soil alkalinity, and temperature are important considerations.
\n\n\n\nSharpen the cutting blades on your gasoline or electric mower every season, and set the height relative to the lawn’s condition. Columbus tends to get an ample amount of rainfall in the spring and autumn, so you can lower the blades for a shorter cut. Kentucky bluegrass can be cut to about 2-1/2 inches if you’re only mowing once a week. In late July and into August’s extreme summer heat and dry weather, cool-season grass root systems tend to become shallow. Raise the blades to about 3-1/2 inches high. Cutting the grass too short in the hot summer months will stress it and keep it from staying green. You can mow KBG, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescues twice a week, if a lot of rain is prompting growth spurts.
\n\n\n\nMowing in straight lines, back and forth every time compacts the soil and pushes the grass blades into one direction, which leads to an irregular cut. Changing directions each mow allows individual blades to spring back. Lawnmowers work better on dry grass, but do not wait too long. The amount of Columbus rainfall is always hit or miss. Leave the grass clippings on the lawn. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and serves as excellent mulch.
\n\n\n\nFertilizing your Columbus lawn depends on its pH level, and that’s where having the soil tested comes in handy. Ohio soils vary, but the best range for grass is slightly acidic, in the pH range between 6.0 and 7.0. Commercial fertilizer contains measured portions of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Feed the lawn in early spring and summer or use slow-release chemicals over dry grass in August to December. Fertilize and follow with a deep watering every eight to 10 weeks.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/oV_ZyfWGU1MESsCrbWe92b6Nw4GUBCsdOBvA062DRf02pvWMctUOgh6Z8MTT20Hjhn44SVncioA9DUzhpxJqZnN6YyBbuP8umfyRvv2RwaaEiuenM3ip4C2aiyM8_r7YFma9B3wQ\")
Post-emergent herbicides will not keep new weeds from sprouting up, but they will kill existing ones. Weed-killing chemicals include dicamba, 4-DP and MCPP (in liquid and granular form). Apply them in early spring, the first couple of weeks in June, and then again in September. See “Controlling the Worst Weeds in Columbus” for more details.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a rotting tangled-up mass of fallen grass blades, rhizomes, and various organic material that spread into a type of vegetative rug. A little is good because it provides a moisture-holding zone where these materials can decompose into nutrients. But when it gets too thick, this woven carpet keeps new grass blades from growing. Bluegrass and some fescue blends may develop thatch that’s more than a half-inch thick. This prevents grass from absorbing enough nutrients and water. Raking, mowing, and fertilizing lawns regularly will help to control thatch.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e_Bh0WbjZQCcpLGIeyTjhzcQz93xfFJx06dDiLwjmjUroaKz5SoLr5JwuLm3Qkqg6A25NRx4Ke7xkD1g9H7LZ8FhvoeOv3He3dBuH5K-HHKwW-NHSwHlsc9EgDKDuzXy3TfyX361\")
Aeration is the process of pulling soil plugs from a thickening lawn so that water and nutrients can reach the roots. Core aerators are recommended for large properties, but if you have a smaller yard, a spading fork will work for a DIY job.
\n\n\n\nNo matter how you look at it, lawn mowing and maintenance in Columbus is a chore and will take a good chunk of the weekend’s leisure time. But the look and smell of a beautiful, well-kept expanse green grass make it all worth it. Any more questions about your lawn? Visit our Columbus lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nJill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.
Whether you’re patching an existing lawn, or starting a new lawn from scratch, choosing the best grass type for your Tulsa lawn is key if you want it to survive the harsh temperature swings of the Sooner State. This article will look at the four best grass types for Tulsa, Oklahoma. Cool-Season vs. Warm-Season Grasses […]
\n","content":"\nWhether you’re patching an existing lawn, or starting a new lawn from scratch, choosing the best grass type for your Tulsa lawn is key if you want it to survive the harsh temperature swings of the Sooner State. This article will look at the four best grass types for Tulsa, Oklahoma.
\n\n\n\nTulsa is home to both warm and cool-season grasses. Understanding the differences between the two grass types will help you choose the grass most suitable for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses have adapted to grow in climates with extreme temperature fluctuations. A cool-season lawn emerges when the temperature drops between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If your yard’s soil temperature drops below 45 degree Fahrenheit in winter, expect your lawn to enter dormancy. Cool-season grass also enters dormancy in summer as temps rise.
\n\n\n\nBecause cool-season grass prefers mild summers and cool weather, it performs best in northern states.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow optimally in climates where temperatures routinely stay above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. These grasses thrive throughout Oklahoma but can be damaged by an extremely harsh winter. Many warm-season grasses are sold as established sod, a perk for many homeowners looking to skip the seeding process.
\n\n\n\nWhen winter arrives, your warm-season lawn will fade from green to brown; resilient grass will green up beautifully with warmer weather and spring rains.
\n\n\n\nBecause warm-season grass prefers long summers and mild winters, it performs best in southern states.
\n\n\n\nSince Tulsa falls in the transition zone (which means it experiences both hot summers and frigid winters), it accommodates both grass types. When selecting a grass, it’s essential to understand the sun, soil, and water requirements for each species. Let’s take a closer look at the best grasses for Tulsa.
\n\n\n\nWarm-Season Grasses:
\n\n\n\nCool-Season Grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Bermudagrass\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Robert McPherson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOften found on golf and tennis courts, bermudagrass grass is quick to bounce back from underwatering and heavy foot traffic. It has the fastest growth rate of any warm-season grass, which makes it a viable choice for homeowners starting lawns from seed. This grass is heat- and salt-tolerant, but be sure to give bermudagrass proper drainage to avoid water-logging the grass.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass has an extensive root system, making it more resilient against environmental stresses than other warm-season turf grasses. This highly drought-tolerant grass only needs about an inch of water each week.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is so successful in Oklahoma that multiple cultivars have taken root across the state. Arizona Common, Guymon, Sunturf, Tifgreen, Tifway, and U-3 are all specially cultivated to succeed in the Sooner State.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; thrives in full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set the mowing height between 0.5 and 1.5 inches for hybrid Bermudagrass cultivars. Mow common Bermudagrass down to 1.5 to 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda’s stolons and rhizomes spread aggressively and outcompete many weeds. However, it can sometimes be considered an invasive species and a nuisance. Many species tunnel underground and spread to neighboring flower beds and lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA fine-textured warm-season turfgrass, Zoysiagrass spreads by rhizomes and stolons. This grass is sought-after because of its winter hardiness and ability to grow in light shade. However, its slow establishment rate makes it less desirable for some homeowners needing to patch a lawn in a hurry.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass and fine-textured Bermudagrass should be considered when a top-quality, high-maintenance lawn is desired. Zoysiagrass’ dense growth makes it highly durable against foot traffic and weeds.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but recovers slowly from damage
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low nitrogen fertilization requirements, although it’s prone to thatch build-up.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 1 and 2 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars are more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: The grass is moderately salt tolerant; it should be cut with a sharp mower blade; if it is in partial shade, it needs to be cut taller.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKBG, or Kentucky bluegrass, is a cool-season grass well-suited to Tulsa, Oklahoma. This grass is a favorite among homeowners because of its winter resilience and ability to self-repair. A sun-loving grass, Kentucky bluegrass weakens in shaded areas. KBG can easily grow from seed and develops emerald to blue-green leaves with a medium to fine texture.
\n\n\n\nSpring and fall are optimal for growing KBG, while the summer heat slows its growth dramatically. Kentucky bluegrass durability depends on the cultivar. To create a more robust turf, mix in some tall fescue with your KBG. This grass requires 1 inch of water a week.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Kentucky bluegrass is the most winter-hardy turfgrass available. Seeds are best planted in early fall. For shaded lawns, choose varieties like Glade and Bensun.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis resilient grass grows well in various climates and is highly resistant to drought, heat, and shade. Tall fescue lawns are an excellent option for homeowners looking to improve their lawn’s resilience and durability. This versatile grass may be an excellent choice for you, depending on where you live and your lawn goals.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is one of the most drought-tolerant cool-season grasses. It only needs 1.25 inches of water a week.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is an effective option for shaded lawns too. This cool-season grass grows best in fall and spring but may lie dormant in the summer, unless given supplemental water and fertilizer, especially in areas with full sun.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: The ideal mowing height for Tall Fescue is 3–3.5 inches. Using the highest setting on most lawnmowers will ensure your tall fescue is always maintained at a healthy height. Your tall fescue can be mowed at this length any time of the year.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most durable turfgrass for homeowners with rowdy dogs. Bermudagrass’ deep roots and quick recovery time make it an excellent playing field for children and dogs. Tall fescue is the more urine-resistant choice if you are concerned about pets damaging your grass while marking their territories on your property.
Oklahoma lawns commonly use tall fescue to cover shady areas since it is more shade-tolerant than warm-season grasses and more drought- and heat-tolerant than other cool-season grasses.
Warm-season grasses should be planted between May 1st and July 1st in Oklahoma, while late September and October are ideal for planting cool-season grasses.
Selecting a turfgrass that can withstand Tulsa’s temperature swings is the first step toward creating your best landscape. Many of Oklahoma’s native plants are perfectly adapted to Tulsa’s climate, too. Explore native flowers, shrubs, trees, and vines to create a drought-tolerant landscape as rugged and beautiful as Oklahoma.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of the grass type you install, you may discover you need maintenance help from a lawn care professional near you. We have trusted pros in Tulsa, Oklahoma City, and many other cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Woodward Park / I, Tim Morgan / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"Best Grass Types for Tulsa, OK","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/1789c/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg","srcSet":"/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/107df/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg 320w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/293e9/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg 500w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/f2cbb/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg 800w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/1789c/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg 960w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/c26c2/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/1dd6e/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/67b76/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp 320w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/8df11/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp 500w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/98a65/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp 800w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/1dd6e/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp 960w,\n/static/27152ad74a3467271029e9f19c49221b/3cc96/Tulsa-Oklahoma-Woodward-Park-Lily-Pond.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Tulsa, OK","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Tulsa homeowners can choose between warm and cold-season turf grasses. Here are the 4 best grass types for Tulsa, Oklahoma."}}},{"node":{"id":"6c4e8e7d-907e-5e4d-8c71-95426cbc21d8","slug":"native-plants-for-charlotte","path":"/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/native-plants-for-charlotte/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Frank Naper is a nature enthusiast who loves to travel and explore new cities, taking nature photographs along the way.","name":"Frank Naper","id":"548facf1-0faf-5729-a658-167972066913","path":"/author/frank-naper/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/905ec21d5a8e70f5f8486364c08aa6b2?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"afc750c6-fc25-5d3b-8b8a-77aa8db4c3fb","name":"Charlotte","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0946c7b5-fa0e-522f-b876-ff6b33c2d842","name":"North Carolina","count":17,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/"}],"date":"July 26th, 2019","excerpt":"Gardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these […]
\n","content":"\nGardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these plants alive, choose native plants for Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nNative plants have the upper hand because they evolved to thrive in North Carolina. They provide excellent habitat and forage for pollinators and wildlife. Best of all, they need little care compared to their invasive counterparts. Here are a few of the best native plants for Charlotte, N.C.
\n\n\n\nA local, well-adapted to forests and riverbanks, cardinal flower is a showy native that can grow in the sun and shade. This beautiful perennial can grow from one to six feet tall. While it doesn’t need much water, it prefers slightly moist soil. Blooming from May until October, you’ll see lots of hummingbirds stop by to feast on the nectar.
\n\n\n\nThis native flower is a primary food source for monarch butterflies. This variety of milkweed has bright orange blooms that last from May to August. It thrives best in full sun and dry soil, requiring almost no maintenance to flourish.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rBbq0WF4wWvvYwX5TvdFYCNWhhcn72IvOsFDTENKJvS1cheazSie18on_zi-V6DgzlcHiDvp0V2DBN8pip9pQzGlyjPSYrfnJqQ0BuNJ1RWTGheuHOfDLDXLUD6Mge_elInNec9m\")
This mountain native loves nothing more than sunshine and well-drained soil. From May to June, large spires of yellow flowers adorn the top of this plant’s branches. It’s great for adding color and height to the edges of a garden. Standing three to six feet tall, this is a tall perennial that will steal the show with early spring blooms.
\n\n\n\nThe blue blooms of the dwarf crested iris are great if you’re looking for flowers to plant in shaded areas. Standing less than a foot tall, this miniature blooms from March to May, offering bursts of color and food for hummingbirds in early spring.
\n\n\n\nThis small shrub features long, arching branches and bright foliage. It blooms with striking clusters of purple berries in fall and winter, providing food for wildlife. Usually reaching heights of three to five feet, beautyberry performs best in part shade. This makes it an ideal understory shrub or edge planting. The beautyberry requires little maintenance and will provide color when most of your other plants are dormant.
\n\n\n\nBeloved by gardeners and butterflies alike, buttonbush is a multistemmed shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall. The round white or pink flowers that dangle from the tips of the branches are irresistible to butterflies. Well suited for shade and part shade, this is another excellent understory plant that performs well on the edge of a property.
\n\n\n\nThis is only a taste of the many species native to our area. Hopefully, it can stimulate your imagination about the landscape possibilities when you choose native plants to Charlotte. Remember, the more native your landscape, the more time you can spend enjoying it, rather than maintaining it.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte, NC lawn care page.
Spring is great in New York. In fact, late spring is the best time to visit the state and certainly one of the best times to live here. But spring is also the time of the year when your yard needs your attention again, and doing it right will give your lawn the foundation it […]
\n","content":"\nSpring is great in New York. In fact, late spring is the best time to visit the state and certainly one of the best times to live here. But spring is also the time of the year when your yard needs your attention again, and doing it right will give your lawn the foundation it needs to thrive all year long.
\n\n\n\nLocation matters, so the approach will be slightly different if you live in the cooler upstate area than along the Atlantic coast. But, in general, these 11 spring lawn care tips for New York will set you up well for the warm-weather months ahead.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAs soon as spring starts, grab your rake and remove dead leaves, twigs and loose grass to help the lawn breathe. If the soil is moist, it’s best to wait for it to dry, as raking when wet can pull up healthy grass.
\n\n\n\nRaking promotes straight grass growth by splitting grass blades. After your first rake, you can let thatch build up to an inch. Thatch less than an inch thick protects the grass from damage and provides nutrients for growth as it decomposes. Any more than that, however, and it can smother your lawn, creating a barrier that keeps oxygen and moisture from getting to the roots.
\n\n\n\nWe’ll get into dethatching more below.
\n\n\n\nIt’s good to test your soil at least once a year. New York sometimes experiences heavy precipitation, which can wash away essential nutrients. A soil test will reveal what nutrients are missing from your soil and whether it’s too acidic or alkaline.
\n\n\n\nYou can then add amendments like magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, or calcium. If you plan to fertilize your soil after adding amendments, we recommend you wait for at least four weeks to prevent negative interactions between them.
\n\n\n\nYou can purchase a DIY soil test kit from a plant nursery and test the soil yourself. Or, if you want a complete soil analysis, send the sample to local testing laboratories. Contact Cornell Cooperative Extension to find soil testing laboratories in your area.
\n\n\n\n![\"Treat](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Treat-Diseases.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nFungi can attack your lawn at any time during the spring. The chances increase during the summer because fungi love warm, humid climates. These precautionary steps can help eliminate fungi at their source.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common lawn diseases in New York.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat red thread:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat fairy ring:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat snow mold:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat brown patch:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nHow to treat leaf spot:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe best time to fertilize cool-season grasses is during fall. But, if you haven’t fertilized the previous fall, you can do so in spring.
\n\n\n\nNitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) are the primary nutrients in fertilizer as they are the most needed for soil growth. Your soil test result will tell you what mixture of nutrients to use.
\n\n\n\nAlways choose slow-release fertilizers over fast-release ones. Fast-release fertilizers make your grass grow quicker but can damage it. In fact, they can burn it.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Use a spreader or sprayer to apply fertilizer evenly.
\n\n\n\nIf you have pets and children playing on your lawn, we recommend you avoid using chemical fertilizers. You can instead go for organic fertilizers like:
\n\n\n\nWeeds start growing in spring and can take over your beautiful turf quicker than you’d imagine. Prevention is better than cure! So, apply pre-emergent herbicides during early spring to prevent weeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nIf weeds have already started to show up, it may be too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. In this case, you can use post-emergent herbicides. If there are only a few weeds, you can remove them manually.
\n\n\n\nHere are some weeds that are common to New York.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Hairy_Chinch_Bug_-_Blissus_leucopteru_50594763067-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Christina Butler / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMost lawn pests reproduce during spring. Use pesticides to eliminate these pesky creatures before they have time to lay and fertilize eggs.
\n\n\n\nSome people use catch-all pesticides, but they are less effective and can harm beneficial insects, pets, and even your children. It’s best to identify the exact pest in your yard and use a pesticide that targets it specifically.
\n\n\n\nHere are some lawn pests common to New York lawns.
\n\n\n\nBesides these lawn pests, you may also find spiders, wasps, centipedes, and mosquitoes in your yard. It’s best to seek professional help to eliminate them, as they can harm humans.
\n\n\n\nProper fertilization, irrigation, and dethatching can reduce your lawn’s susceptibility to pests. However, it’s impossible to prevent them altogether.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn equipment probably sat idle in your garage throughout the winter. Now it’s spring and time to get it duty-ready.
\n\n\n\nFollow these steps to check your lawn equipment and get them ready.
\n\n\n\nIn most cases, you can remove thatch with a rake. However, you may have to dethatch your lawn with a dethatcher if the accumulation is too great.
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to dethatch your lawn when it’s actively growing. This time is usually in early spring for cool-season grasses. Also, ensure the soil is moist before running the dethatcher.
\n\n\n\nOnce you finish dethatching, overseed to fill any new bare spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nAeration is the process of punching small holes in the lawn to allow water, air, and other nutrients to reach the roots. You can aerate your yard during spring or fall.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn should be aerated if you notice excessive thatch accumulation and soil compaction. Aeration can also help improve the health of your grass. It’s best to aerate your yard every year or every other year.
\n\n\n\nIf you have planned to dethatch your lawn, it’s best to dethatch first and then aerate. It’s easier to aerate when there’s no thatch. Also, water your grass before running the lawn aerator, as it’s easier to aerate when the soil is moist.
\n\n\n\n![\"orange](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nYou should mow your lawn as soon as the grass starts growing. Here’s the recommended mowing height for popular grasses in New York.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Height |
| Fine fescue | 1.5 – 3 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 4 inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
If you want a lush, green, healthy lawn, water is a must. A lawn typically requires 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week. However, the amount of water can vary depending on the grass and climate.
\n\n\n\nOverwatering and underwatering can both harm your lawn. Overwatering can breed fungi, pests, and weeds. Underwatering will make the grass lose its color.
\n\n\n\nA simple technique for determining whether your lawn needs water is to insert a screwdriver about 3 to 4 inches into the ground. Remove the screwdriver. If there’s moisture, you don’t need to water your yard.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to irrigate is early morning (before 10 a.m.). If you water during the evening or night, the excess water will remain in the soil, attracting diseases.
\n\n\n\nNew York sees a humid subtropical climate, with warm summers and cold winters. The weather is beautiful during spring, especially in May. And it’s the best time to have fun on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nRemove debris, treat diseases, eliminate weeds, get rid of pests, and fertilize to make your lawn look great during spring and stay strong in the coming months.
\n\n\n\nLastly, don’t forget to clean your clogged gutters to give your lawn a perfect look and protect your home from water damage.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re new to lawn care and don’t have the time to spend on your yard, Wikilawn New York lawn care pros are always here to assist.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Brooklyn bridge, New York / Pxfuel
\n","title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for New York","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/1789c/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/107df/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/293e9/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/f2cbb/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/1789c/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/c26c2/pxfuel.com-2-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/1dd6e/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/67b76/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp 320w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/8df11/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp 500w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/98a65/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp 800w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/1dd6e/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp 960w,\n/static/4266cffe64c64f739757c36702725255/3cc96/pxfuel.com-2-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for New York | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Feeding, mowing, weeding and otherwise pampering your lawn in the spring will give it a rock-solid foundation that will help it thrive all year"}}},{"node":{"id":"1e944b49-93f9-53aa-85ae-9bb445c17fd4","slug":"mowing-alternative-lawn-goats","path":"/lawn-care/mowing-alternative-lawn-goats/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"8ba81c7f-e6d3-5016-8cd0-722b40ed3db9","name":"Creative Gardening","count":4,"path":"/category/creative-gardening/"},{"id":"cfca3a30-772e-535e-90a9-3056dfc1de8c","name":"Home & Garden","count":15,"path":"/category/home-garden/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"October 22nd, 2019","excerpt":"If you’ve been thinking of ways to ditch the gas-guzzling lawn mower in favor of an environmentally friendly way of mowing your lawn, you’re hardly alone. Sure, you could use an old-fashioned reel lawn mower, but another lawn care option threatens to put mowing crews out of business: lawn goats. But before you head to […]
\n","content":"\nIf you’ve been thinking of ways to ditch the gas-guzzling lawn mower in favor of an environmentally friendly way of mowing your lawn, you’re hardly alone. Sure, you could use an old-fashioned reel lawn mower, but another lawn care option threatens to put mowing crews out of business: lawn goats.
\n\n\n\nBut before you head to the livestock auction, take a minute to learn about these mammalian mowing machines and decide if they’re right for you. You may want to start out by renting a goat. A simple Google search reveals that rent-a-goat businesses are everywhere, spinning the labor of grazers into gold.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/goat-2089809_needpix-1024x682.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/PIXNIO-28965-goat-eating-forest.jpeg\")
Goats are not exactly the lawn mowing masters people like to make them out to be. Your average goats will eat everything but grass before they even glance down at the turf beneath their hooves. Goats eat poison ivy, poison oak, brambles, and invasive kudzu with gusto. They’ll pull branches from trees and take down saplings through a combination of trampling and devouring. Think of them as a string trimmer with no boundaries, which makes them extremely effective at brush control. When you hear about Google renting goats to mow its Mountain View, Calif., campus, it’s a little misleading. The goats are not creating a manicured lawn, but are rather being used for their abilities to clear brush efficiently.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to not being selective, goats are also not very savvy about what they shouldn’t eat. They’ll destroy your ornamental flower beds and strip the bark off trees, killing them. But they will also eat poisonous plants, which can mean killing themselves. Tammy Dunakin of Rent-a-Ruminant in Seattle laments that goats “won’t eat tin cans or other litter. Only paper and vegetation,” she says, adding that the herd works on their own time: “goat time.”
\n\n\n\nIf you still think goats are a sensible approach to lawn care for your yard, then make sure you understand a few critical facts about them. First, you’ll need more than one. Goats are social animals that belong in a herd. A solo goat is a sad, lonely, and shockingly loud creature. Let’s say you want a pair of goats to manage your property. If you want them to perform a stellar job of managing your lawn, you’re going to have to provide them with a few essentials.
\n\n\n\nGood fencing makes good neighbors and good goats. It’s critical for controlling what the animal eats. Electric net fencing is ideal because you can move it around to do rotational grazing and use it to protect trees and flower beds. Goats need lots of water, so they need a bucket close by at all times. And as much as you want your goats to focus all their efforts on your yard, they’ll need another food source, too. Most goat owners feed supplemental pellets to make sure the animal is getting enough nutrition.
\n\n\n\nGoats evolved to eat a wildly varied diet, and grass alone isn’t sufficient. They also need a mineral block similar to a salt lick but specially formulated for goats. Goats need their hooves trimmed at least once a month, so you’ll need to learn how to handle hoof trimming tools and rowdy animals. Finally, goats need a warm, dry place to shelter from rain and sleep at night.
Goat lawn care is not for everyone, but if your property is riddled with blackberry brambles, brush, and other nasty overgrowths, it may be for you. On the other hand, if you’re just trying to keep the weeds under control, you may be better off with backyard chickens.
Virginia’s Capital Region is a place of unique character, with a history that runs deep as the nation’s birthplace and a culinary scene that boasts some of the finest tobacco and oysters around. As a homeowner in this remarkable region, you can add to its legacy by incorporating the best native plants for Virginia’s Capital […]
\n","content":"\nVirginia’s Capital Region is a place of unique character, with a history that runs deep as the nation’s birthplace and a culinary scene that boasts some of the finest tobacco and oysters around. As a homeowner in this remarkable region, you can add to its legacy by incorporating the best native plants for Virginia’s Capital region into your yard.
\n\n\n\nNative plants are adapted to the local region, making them low-maintenance and reliable for any gardener. And by planting them, you’re not only beautifying your yard, but you’re also supporting the local ecosystem by providing habitats for native wildlife. In this article, we’ll explore the top eight native plants for Virginia’s Capital Region, giving you all the tips to turn your yard into a true gem in this historic and breathtaking landscape.
\n\n\n\nNative plant benefits include:
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover the following:
\n\n\n\n![\"Black](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Black-Oak-Quercus-velutina-leaves.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Sturner from USA / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nConsider the black oak tree if you want to add a touch of natural beauty to your backyard in Virginia’s capital region. This stunning native tree boasts glossy, dark green leaves that turn brilliant shades of orange, brown, and yellow in the fall, creating a striking contrast against its black bark.
\n\n\n\nIn the summer, its acorns provide food for local wildlife, such as squirrels, turkeys, white-tail deer, and other small mammals. Not only is the black oak visually appealing, but it’s also a hardy and low-maintenance tree that makes a beautiful shade for large areas. So why not bring a piece of Virginia’s natural beauty to your backyard with the majestic black oak tree?
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Prefer deep, fertile, medium moisture, well-drained soil, but tolerates poor dry soils.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous perennial.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Dry to moderate. Well-drained soil.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 50 to 60 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: It is toxic to horses.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. The best time to propagate this plant is mid-autumn or late winter, either through seed or grafting. Its deep taproot makes transplanting a challenging task.
\n\n\n\n![\"Willow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Willow-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Katja Schulz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe willow oak is a fantastic option for homeowners looking to add beauty to their backyard. This native tree is a sight to behold, with its bright green foliage during the summer months and its stunning yellow or russet hues in the fall. The tree’s bark is also a standout feature, ranging from dry to dark brown and providing a unique texture to your landscape.
\n\n\n\nNot only is the willow oak a visually striking addition, but it also provides food for several species of birds and mammals. This tree is a fast grower, which means you’ll be able to enjoy its many benefits in no time. From its natural beauty to its wildlife contributions, the willow oak is an excellent choice for backyard enthusiasts looking to enhance their outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam, sand. Acid, neutral. Moist but well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous perennial.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate to High.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 40 to 75 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: It is toxic to horses.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. The Willow oak showcases impressive resilience by enduring the destructive impact of strong winds and substantial amounts of ice and snow without succumbing to breakage. To uphold its shape, it is advisable to prune it regularly, while it’s recommended to fertilize it thrice annually.
\n\n\n\n![\"Sassafras](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Sassafras-Leaves.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Randy Everette / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSassafras is a versatile and beautiful tree to plant in your yard. This native tree boasts unique, mitten-shaped leaves that turn gorgeous shades of orange, red, and yellow in the fall, making it a stunning addition to any autumn landscape.
\n\n\n\nBut sassafras is more than just a pretty face – it also produces fragrant, spicy bark and roots used in traditional medicine and cooking. Plus, it’s relatively low-maintenance and can live well in various soil types and sun exposures.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial shade.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam, acid, neutral. Moist but well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous perennial.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Aromatic properties are present in all parts of the common sassafras tree. When the young bark is scratched, it emits a delightfully spicy fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 30 to 60 feet
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: This plant has low-severity poison characteristics.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Average. To maintain a shrub-like size, sassafras trees can be pruned by cutting them down to the ground every 2 to 3 years. Additionally, it’s important to protect this tree from harsh winter conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Common-Partridge-Pea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Cbaile19 / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you dream of adding some vibrant color and texture to your backyard, the common partridge pea is a native plant that you won’t want to overlook. This striking wildflower produces clusters of showy yellow blooms throughout the summer, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies to your yard.
\n\n\n\nIts deep roots can help improve soil health and prevent erosion, making it an excellent choice for areas with poor soil or sloping terrain. And with its ability to tolerate drought and flooding, the common partridge pea is a hardy and adaptable addition to any garden.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herbaceous
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam, sand. Acid, alkaline, neutral. Well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous annual.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Dry to moderate.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. This plant has an aggressive self-seeding habit, especially in dry and open spaces. For optimal growth, it’s recommended to sow the seeds between late March and May.
\n\n\n\n![\"Smooth](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Smooth-Oxeye-False-Sunflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lystopad / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe smooth oxeye is a gorgeous wildflower that requires little maintenance. Its bright yellow blossoms and unique serrated leaves are eye-catching and can add color to any sunny area of your yard. This plant is hardy and simple to cultivate, making it a great option for any gardener. Plus, its attractive blooms are known to attract bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds, adding to the liveliness and beauty of your backyard.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herbaceous
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial shade.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Chalk, clay, loam, sand. Acid, alkaline, neutral. Moist but well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous perennial.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Autumn, spring, and summer.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. To encourage prolonged blooming, it’s recommended to deadhead the flowers. After the flowering period, cutting the plant back is also advised.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Green-arrow-arum-Peltandra-virginica.jpg\"){kind=icon}
Photo Credit: Chris Light / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor those seeking a captivating and hardy plant to enhance their Virginia backyard, the arrow arum is an aquatic plant sure to make a splash. With its glossy, dark green leaves and long stalks, this native species can add a touch of elegance to any water feature or garden.
\n\n\n\nThe large leaves are striking and can vary in shape and size, but often they feature an arrowhead shape. Arrow arum is a vigorous grower; once established, it can spread to fill out any space. The arrow arum is a choice that will delight you and any visitors to your yard.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Aquatic herbaceous
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial shade.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam, sand. Acid, alkaline, neutral. Poorly drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring and summer.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Wet
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1.5 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Moderate. Arrow arum is a versatile plant that can thrive in standing water up to 6 inches deep or consistently moist, boggy soils. This plant can be propagated through either seed or division.
\n\n\n\n![\"Wild](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Wild-Pink.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fritzflohrreynolds / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor those looking for a plant that is both showy and easy to care for in their backyard, the wild pink is an excellent option to consider. This plant will embellish any outdoor space with its rosy pink flowers resembling phlox and forming five wedge-shaped petals in a tubular shape.
\n\n\n\nWild pink is a compact, mat-forming plant that gives a splash of color to any landscape. Its hardy nature makes it a fantastic choice for those looking for a low-maintenance plant. The plant produces a fruit capsule that splits open to release tiny brown seeds, which can easily propagate and establish new plants.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herbaceous
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Chalk, loam, sand. Alkaline, neutral. Well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial.
\n\n\n\nFragrance: No fragrance.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low.
\n\n\n\nMature height: 10 inches to 1 foot
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. Once the plant is established, it prefers not to be disturbed. However, it can be propagated through various methods, such as seeds, cuttings, or division.
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red-Chokeberry-Aronia-arbutifolia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mr.TinMD / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor a multi-seasonal showstopper in your Virginia backyard, the red chokeberry is an excellent choice. This multi-stemmed shrub offers something unique in every season.
\n\n\n\nIn the spring, the red chokeberry showcases flat-topped clusters of white to light pink, five-petaled flowers with red anthers that bloom in abundance. The dark green, glossy leaves emerge following the flowers, providing a lush backdrop that consistently transforms into a stunning orange-red hue in the fall. The plant produces bright red, pear-shaped berries that stay on the shrub until December or January, adding a pop of color to the winter landscape.
\n\n\n\nThe reddish-brown, exfoliating bark provides additional visual interest during the colder months. With its year-round appeal, the red chokeberry is an ideal choice for any Virginia backyard looking to add natural beauty and color..
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun to partial shade.
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, loam. Acid, neutral. Moist but well-drained.
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Flowers have a sweet scent.
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Flowers blossom in spring. But it has a four-season interest.
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium
\n\n\n\nMature height: 5 to 10 feet
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. These plants can endure wet sites and even occasional flooding. They can be propagated through various methods, such as seeds, soft-wood cuttings, or taking out suckers and potting them during the plant’s dormant period.
\n\n\n\nPlanting native plants in your backyard can provide many benefits, such as supporting local ecosystems, attracting wildlife, and reducing the need for fertilizers and pesticides. However, not all native plants are good for every backyard. When selecting the right plant, factors such as soil type, sunlight, and moisture levels must be considered.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, it is essential to be aware of your backyard’s hardiness zone, which determines your area’s climate conditions and temperature range. Virginia’s capital region USDA hardiness zone is 6 and 7, which means plants suitable for those zones can tolerate the region’s typical winter temperatures.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a plant list of some popular native plant species for the Virginia department:
\n\n\n\nFor more information on native wildflowers, groundcovers, trees, invasive species, and shrubs, visit the PlantVirginiaNatives.org website.
\n\n\n\nRichmond has many native plants, including:
\n\n\n\nTo thrive native plants thrive in soil that is deeply moistened and not frequently watered. It is recommended to provide a single 30-minute soak every 7-10 days instead of multiple 10-minute waterings per week. The frequency of watering should be determined based on several factors, such as the soil type, exposure to sunlight, weather conditions, and the age of the plant.
\n\n\n\nSoutheast Virginia’s native plants include:
\n\n\n\nNorthern Virginia’s native plants include:
\n\n\n\nIt is highly recommended to purchase native plants from local nurseries. They offer a wide selection of plant species that are well-suited to the local climate and soil conditions and employ knowledgeable staff who can give expert advice on native plant care and maintenance.
\n\n\n\nFor additional information on sustainability initiatives, guides on native plants, and the significance of native plants, kindly visit the website of the Virginia Native Plant Society.
\n\n\n\nWhen beginning your landscaping dream, it’s important to remember that choosing the appropriate plant is just the initial step. Sustaining the well-being of your lawn is just as crucial in ensuring the long-term prosperity of your landscape.
\n\n\n\nLooking for a Virginia lawn care pro near you to maintain your landscape? We have trusted pros in Richmond, Chesterfield, and various other cities throughout Virginia’s Capital Region.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Maymont Park / Watts / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"8 Best Native Plants for Virginia´s Capital Region","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2.10896309314587,"src":"/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/1789c/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/107df/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg 320w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/293e9/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg 500w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/f2cbb/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg 800w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/1789c/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg 960w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/c26c2/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/1dd6e/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/67b76/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp 320w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/8df11/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp 500w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/98a65/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp 800w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/1dd6e/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp 960w,\n/static/cde73942a6652607c840b3b9717d8d93/3cc96/Italian-Gardens-Maymont-Park-Richmond-Virginia.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Best Native Plants for Virginia's Capital Region","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Visit our guide of 8 top choices for beautiful and resilient plants that thrive in the local climate of Virginia’s Capital Region."}}},{"node":{"id":"97260ebe-9274-5d73-b454-48940de4090a","slug":"growing-drought-tolerant-grasses","path":"/drought-tolerant-plants/growing-drought-tolerant-grasses/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jay Keaton is a lawn care specialist who focuses on organic pest control. His yard is filled with chrysanthemums, basil, borage, marigolds and other plants that repel bugs.","name":"Jay Keaton","id":"aa1543ca-6fab-5e4b-bd0c-12f87aa13f51","path":"/author/jay-keaton/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6abb3b96ee2a6dcce741112f06af213b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"2bca3176-5c56-5608-8083-8819b11f4a4c","name":"Drought Tolerant Plants","count":2,"path":"/category/drought-tolerant-plants/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"October 15th, 2019","excerpt":"If you’re looking to conserve water, why not start with your lawn? Choosing drought-tolerant grass will save you money on your water bill. Not only do they need less water, these grass types also don’t need to be mowed or fertilized as often, which will save you time and even more money. As the name […]
\n","content":"\nIf you’re looking to conserve water, why not start with your lawn? Choosing drought-tolerant grass will save you money on your water bill. Not only do they need less water, these grass types also don’t need to be mowed or fertilized as often, which will save you time and even more money.
\n\n\n\nAs the name implies, drought-tolerant grasses can survive and even stay green during dry spells. This is helpful if you live in a drier climate or in a community with water restrictions. There are two types of turfgrass to consider when you’re switching to a drought-resistant variety: cool-season and warm-season grass. Choose the type that’s best suited for your climate to increase their hardiness and decrease the time you spend on lawn care.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grass types thrive in areas with cold winters and hot summers. Its preferred temperature range is 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is why you’ll see more active growth in the spring and fall. These varieties are most common in the upper third of the United States. You’ll also find them in the Midwest, or the “transition zone,” where cool-season and warm-season grasses overlap. They will go dormant in winter when the temperatures get cold.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/15Qv9T51iqfQnmp485RUGDSmxielZf8b72XZIytggcI6Hnl87VQWMzNMcq-wuy2J1f0hHoclryI-XJQcYckibBqwtWQR4tSkZYTYEJzRRXGNwDdjaMbofiqNGxQBySfB_jQZRDit\")
Tall fescue grass is a course-textured, bunching grass with a wide blade that grows well in full sun and shade. It’s becoming more popular as a turfgrass because it looks like other varieties, but doesn’t need as much maintenance. It is well suited to the transition zone because it tolerates both high heat and drought. Its root system reaches deep (2-3 feet), allowing it to find moisture deep in the soil. It only needs 1-1 ¾ inches of water a week.
Sheep fescue is another excellent choice for a drought-tolerant lawn. It needs little water and only infrequent mowing (two to three times a year, and not at all during the summer). Because of its bumpy surface, it’s not ideal for backyard play.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass is a tough, low maintenance grass that grows quickly and holds up well to foot traffic. It’s most commonly used in grass seed mixtures rather than as a stand-alone lawn grass. There are perennial and annual types, and the perennial variety is what you’ll find in permanent lawns.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find warm-season grasses in the southern United States. They prefer temperatures of 80-95 degrees Fahrenheit. Their most active growth happens in late spring through the summer.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass has the most drought-tolerance of the warm-season grasses. It tolerates heat, drought, high traffic, and even salt, making it popular for lawns, golf courses and football fields in the South. It has deep roots that can extend up to 6 feet, meaning it can find water far underground. It stays green all year in areas where it doesn’t freeze and can recover quickly after going dormant during a drought. It does require more maintenance than some. It needs 1 ¼ inches of water a week during the hottest months. It also grows rapidly, so you’ll need to mow it every five to seven days.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/cmCZ-pouktN7Lzche5bJKvRqPxX7TmDioLyc_0kz-_9GtsJnKqSn1oAPQ-x1shEES7nwn41vUxEwXFkXDBypu87ew7OUjFBWHn6KPg7Yj0piYzv7X4QrMaB6WFeM16lUUMQoAr1Q\")
Buffalograss is native to the Midwest and is growing in popularity as a turfgrass. It’s thick and can survive on less than 1/4 inch of water a week. Newer cultivars are easier to establish in your yard, but it’s still slow to start. The Colorado State University Extension says, “The development of attractive turf-type cultivars and greater availability of seed, sod, and plugs has generated new interest in this grass for home lawns.”
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/aa8-cN9F14jSdbkKutcB1orwG2IJJ54YA9edneADPtRXB3u3Rfg_VOPSWxTtVD4TYDSk7MrZPTSlxCgYeo6a07DCODyfO3QNRyxApVfe9wb-WDIA8D0yO7sHAHEoL7LerWWQQ3kz\")
Zoysiagrass will give you a dense, green lawn with little maintenance. It grows well in southern states and in the transition zone. It turns brown during winter dormancy, but this happens later in the fall than with other warm-season grass. It also greens up earlier in the spring than other varieties and can grow in partial shade. Like Bermudagrass, it will recover after going dormant in a drought. Zoysia lawns need about an inch of water a week.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is a coarser grass that holds up under some foot traffic. It stays green, even when going dormant in the winter, but it is susceptible to disease if overwatered.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass tolerates drought and poor soil conditions. It’s also disease- and pest-resistant, but it won’t do well in shady areas.
\n\n\n\nSwitching a thirsty, high maintenance lawn to one that is water-wise and drought-tolerant is a good ecological and economical choice. You’ll spend less time and money on watering, mowing and fertilizing your lawn, while still having a green outdoor space to enjoy.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Anton Croos, Art of Photography
\n","title":"Growing Drought-Tolerant Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5005861664712778,"src":"/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/1789c/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/107df/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg 320w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/293e9/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg 500w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/f2cbb/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg 800w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/1789c/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg 960w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/356ef/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/1dd6e/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/67b76/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp 320w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/8df11/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp 500w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/98a65/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp 800w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/1dd6e/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp 960w,\n/static/3961cbd32ec1be6f9e9a3bc964a83dfe/93f70/1280px-Sprinkler_Irrigation_-_Sprinkler_head.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Growing Drought-Tolerant Grasses | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"896ca5d7-6c87-54a3-bffa-b671568858c2","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-for-maryland","path":"/lawn-care/md/fall-lawn-care-checklist-for-maryland/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Amy Adams is a freelance writer and former newspaper journalist. She grew up in Kansas but has been living in Florida for the past 15 years and has no intentions of ever moving back!","name":"Amy Adams","id":"eb80c67d-0627-5815-9dd0-304031dbe1be","path":"/author/amy-adams/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a8e73c6ada90c41863cce7b93d142c7d?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"2a5e33f9-ad47-575e-b414-2fa0c9049fd1","name":"Maryland","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/md/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2023","excerpt":"Pumpkin spice lattes, sweaters, and colorful autumn foliage make fall really fun in Maryland. But the fabulous fall colors on the leaves also remind us that just because summer may be coming to a close doesn’t mean we can ignore our yard. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. As the landscape transforms into a breathtaking […]
\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, sweaters, and colorful autumn foliage make fall really fun in Maryland. But the fabulous fall colors on the leaves also remind us that just because summer may be coming to a close doesn’t mean we can ignore our yard. In fact, it’s quite the opposite.
\n\n\n\nAs the landscape transforms into a breathtaking palette of fall colors, you must get ready to give your lawn TLC. With this fall lawn care checklist for Maryland, you can better prepare your yard for the changing seasons – harmonizing nature’s beauty with a vibrant and well-nurtured canvas.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nNeglecting your lawn during this season risks dire consequences for your yard come spring. Contrary to popular belief, lawn care extends beyond the summer months. With cooler temperatures, fall provides the ideal environment for these essential practices:
\n\n\n\nUnleash the transformative power of fall lawn care – preserving the beauty of your yard and setting the stage for a breathtaking spring.
\n\n\n\nAs the season winds down, don’t hang up your lawn care hat just yet. Fall is the best time for basic lawn maintenance that can help promote root development and good soil conditions. With the help of these fall lawn care tips, you can ensure your lawn will come back better than ever next spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/3768077054_1a9fc5e9a5_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Michael Mol / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nNow that summer has passed, you may be tempted to put away your sprinkler for the year, but it’s best to keep it out just a bit longer. Properly watering your lawn is essential for it to continue coming back each spring.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn watered is especially important for late-season nitrogen applications to work properly. Otherwise, the fertilizer is less likely to enhance root growth if your grass is dry, rendering the fertilizer application useless.
\n\n\n\nAn underwatered lawn will become brown and crunchy, and the dirt will become dusty as the grass stops growing. Nevertheless, be careful not to overwater, as this can cause weeds and fungal diseases. An overwatered lawn will quickly become luscious and green, then become limp and spongy before fading to brown and moss.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue, the most common type of grass in Maryland, needs approximately 1 inch of water per week.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Fall-leaves-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures / Pixabay / License
\n\n\n\nRaking leaves can be one of the most exhausting and back-breaking fall chores, yet it’s necessary. And chances are, you may not be raking your leaves as often as you should.
\n\n\n\nRake early, and rake often. Don’t wait until your trees are mostly or completely bare before you clear the leaves from your yard. You should rid your lawn of leaves as soon as possible. A rule of thumb is to rake your leaves one to two times a week once they start falling. If you do put it off, make sure your yard is clear of leaves before the first frost of the season.
\n\n\n\nWaiting to remove leaves from your lawn can cause them to suffocate the grass. Over time leaves will become wet from rain and morning dew – causing them to stick together and form a barrier.
\n\n\n\nThis barrier filters out essential sunlight and water, preventing vital nutrients from reaching the roots. It also creates the perfect environment for weeds, rodents, insects, and diseases.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to save yourself from the back pain of raking, especially if you have lots of trees or a large yard, you can use a lawnmower with a collection bag or vacuum system to clear the leaves.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIt’s a common misconception that it’s best to fertilize in the spring when it’s actually better to fertilize your lawn in the fall. During this season, grass recovers from the summer heat and drought while preparing for the upcoming winter months. But if you don’t fertilize in the fall, you should do it in the spring.
\n\n\n\nFall fertilization advantages:
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to apply fertilizer twice in the fall. The first round should be applied just after Labor Day, and the second should be when you mow the last time for the year.
\n\n\n\nEarly fall fertilization increases turf density without promoting excess growth. On the other hand, late fall fertilization increases root growth and carbohydrate storage to help the grass survive winter and prepare for the spring’s new growth.
\n\n\n\nIf you only fertilize once, then aim to fertilize in September. According to Maryland’s Lawn Fertilizer Law, fertilizer cannot be applied between Nov. 15 through March 1, so plan accordingly.
\n\n\n\nTypes of fertilizer:
\n\n\n\n![\"Hands](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeeds. They seem to be an ever-present annoyance. Whether you are currently fighting a weed infestation or are looking to prevent weeds, fall is the time to treat them.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of treatment:
\n\n\n\nWeeds can invade even the healthiest and luscious of lawns. If left untreated, weeds will consume the valuable nutrients intended for your grass – causing your lawn to look dull and drab. These results happen because your grass will be robbed of essential water, clean air, and direct sunlight. Your grass will become weak and susceptible to disease and insect infestations.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/aerate-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeffoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAs you prepare your grass for the upcoming winter weather, it’s also the best time to aerate your lawn. It will help:
\n\n\n\nAeration also energizes your lawn’s root system to expand before winter, which will help it survive the harsh winter months and return healthy and vibrant in the spring.
\n\n\n\nTypes of aeration:
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: It’s usually best to hire a professional to aerate your lawn. This takes time and the proper equipment to do it right.
\n\n\n\n![\"grass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/overseed-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Elena Photo / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAs the seasons transition, you can seize the opportunity to overseed your lawn. Amidst the autumnal landscape, when weeds retreat, dispersing grass seeds over your established lawn will yield better results. Doing this helps fill in bare areas and thicken up the lawn to provide a more dense and fluffy appearance.
\n\n\n\nBut don’t forget to water – it’s an essential part of the seeding process. A newly seeded lawn needs to be watered lightly every day. You don’t want your seeds to dry out, or they won’t germinate.
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to overseed between mid-August to mid-September. Be sure to plant at least 45 days before the first frost, and don’t seed past Oct. 15. This will give your seed time to get established after the heat of the summer but before it goes dormant for the winter.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_4353671803_e0e987132b_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: sean hobson / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nJust because the calendar hit September doesn’t mean it’s time to store the lawn mower for the season. You want to continue mowing your lawn throughout the fall. It’s best to slowly taper your grass down rather than mowing it short once.
\n\n\n\nAlso, maintain proper grass heights. Cutting grass too short may cause its root system to freeze. On the other hand, letting your grass grow too long can cause it to become matted and diseased. For example, tall fescue should be kept about 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nWhen in doubt, follow the one-third rule: Cut one-third of your grass’s length. You never want to cut more because it can make it susceptible to weeds, pests, and disease.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Fine fescue | 3 – 4 inches |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
| Perennial ryegrass | 2 – 3 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 – 2.5 inches |
![\"draining](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/hose-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: SLRadcliffe / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOne last task before you can call it quits for the season is winterizing your sprinkler system. Any water remaining in your pipes over the winter can lead to frozen pipes, broken sprinkler heads, and cracked plastic. So, completely drain all water from your irrigation system. Come springtime, and you’ll be glad you did.
\n\n\n\nSince Maryland is in a transition zone, both cool and warm-season grasses can grow here. But with its hot summers and cold winters, you need to select grass species that can withstand both extremes. Moreover, different regions in the Old Line State have varying soil compositions, such as clay-heavy or sandy soil, which can impact drainage and root growth.
Plus, irregular rain patterns require careful water management to avoid drought stress or excessive moisture. The state’s diverse ecosystem contributes to pest and disease pressure, necessitating proactive lawn maintenance and pest management strategies. Additionally, coastal areas may face higher humidity levels and salt spray challenges.
Yes, absolutely. There are numerous ways to create a low-maintenance landscape, and one of the best ways is to replace all or just a part of your lawn with a grass alternative. Planting grass alternatives will help eliminate the need for regular mowing, cutting down the time needed for landscape maintenance.
Grass alternatives:
● Garden beds or borders
● Groundcovers
● Moss
● Mulches
● No-mow/natural areas
● Ornamental grasses
● Trees
Yes. Knowing your soil’s pH is the best way to know what amendments might be needed to your soil and what kind of fertilizer to use on your lawn.
Test your soil with a DIY kit. You can buy these kits from your local garden center or home improvement store. Or contact your local extension office for professional testing. Test sooner rather than later to prevent problems down the road.
Maryland soil sometimes lacks proper amounts of boron, zinc, and manganese. The results of your soil test will show whether you need to add a few elements to balance your soil’s pH for optimal growth.
Since Maryland is in a transition zone, both cool and warm-season grasses can grow here. But with its hot summers and cold winters, you need to select grass species that can withstand both extremes. Moreover, different regions in the Old Line State have varying soil compositions, such as clay-heavy or sandy soil, which can impact drainage and root growth.
\n\n\n\nPlus, irregular rain patterns require careful water management to avoid drought stress or excessive moisture. The state’s diverse ecosystem contributes to pest and disease pressure, necessitating proactive lawn maintenance and pest management strategies. Additionally, coastal areas may face higher humidity levels and salt spray challenges.
\n\n\n\nYes, absolutely. There are numerous ways to create a low-maintenance landscape, and one of the best ways is to replace all or just a part of your lawn with a grass alternative. Planting grass alternatives will help eliminate the need for regular mowing, cutting down the time needed for landscape maintenance.
\n\n\n\nGrass alternatives:
\n\n\n\nYes. Knowing your soil’s pH is the best way to know what amendments might be needed to your soil and what kind of fertilizer to use on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nTest your soil with a DIY kit. You can buy these kits from your local garden center or home improvement store. Or contact your local extension office for professional testing. Test sooner rather than later to prevent problems down the road.
\n\n\n\nMaryland soil sometimes lacks proper amounts of boron, zinc, and manganese. The results of your soil test will show whether you need to add a few elements to balance your soil’s pH for optimal growth.
\n\n\n\nElevate your yard’s potential by preparing it for the coming winter, ensuring a triumphant return next spring — vibrant, robust, and more breathtaking than ever.
\n\n\n\nWhether you live in Baltimore, Frederick, Ocean City, Annapolis, or any of Maryland’s amazing towns, let us help you find a lawn care pro near you to help transform your lawn into a masterpiece that will leave your neighbors in awe.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: DenisTangneyJr / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Maryland","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/1789c/Untitled-design.jpg","srcSet":"/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/107df/Untitled-design.jpg 320w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/293e9/Untitled-design.jpg 500w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/f2cbb/Untitled-design.jpg 800w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/1789c/Untitled-design.jpg 960w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/c26c2/Untitled-design.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/1dd6e/Untitled-design.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/67b76/Untitled-design.webp 320w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/8df11/Untitled-design.webp 500w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/98a65/Untitled-design.webp 800w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/1dd6e/Untitled-design.webp 960w,\n/static/22998ec92b0ae0359d6925d32f9d5f49/3cc96/Untitled-design.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Maryland | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Prepare your lawn for the winter chill with this comprehensive fall lawn care checklist for Maryland."}}},{"node":{"id":"bd885ece-a3cc-57ad-8b75-dc3c228d7da9","slug":"best-grass-types-new-york","path":"/lawn-care/ny/best-grass-types-new-york/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"d385702e-0566-5651-8f72-f93cc1c9db6b","name":"New York","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ny/"}],"date":"May 8th, 2023","excerpt":"One of the great things about New York is its natural diversity and distinct seasons. But all that diversity has a price: Not all grasses thrive in conditions that swing from hot and humid to cold and icy. So if a beautiful lawn is a must-have, it pays to know what kinds of grasses do […]
\n","content":"\nOne of the great things about New York is its natural diversity and distinct seasons. But all that diversity has a price: Not all grasses thrive in conditions that swing from hot and humid to cold and icy.
\n\n\n\nSo if a beautiful lawn is a must-have, it pays to know what kinds of grasses do well in our unique climate. Here are four grasses that not only survive but thrive in New York.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of grasses.
\n\n\n\nNew York enjoys warm to hot summers and cold winters. The difference is even more pronounced in upstate New York, where regions bordering the Great Lakes experience brutally cold, ridiculously snowy winters. Downstate sees warmer summers with higher humidity levels, but the winters are cold and wet.
\n\n\n\nOverall, cool-season grasses are best suited to New York’s climate because they tolerate cold well, and the heat isn’t sustained or intense enough to do any real harm.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a closer look at each kind:
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nFine fescue looks beautiful with its medium green thin grass blades. It tolerates shade and can grow in sunny conditions, too. Fine fescue requires minimal watering.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a soft texture. However, it can’t tolerate high foot traffic. Fine fescue requires low maintenance but is highly susceptible to red thread and other diseases.
\n\n\n\nWe recommend mixing fine fescue with other cool-season grasses for the best results. New York homeowners usually mix fine fescue with Kentucky bluegrass at a 50:50 or 50:25 ratios.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3863142192_bea9f90f09_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTall fescue has a deep root system, so it tolerates shade and drought. The leaves are dark green in color, with a coarse appearance. You can combine tall fescue with other cool-season grasses for a better lawn appearance.
\n\n\n\nOn the down side, if you plan to use your lawn heavily, avoid tall fescue. It can handle normal yard usage but doesn’t tolerate heavy foot traffic. On the up side, tall fescue resists diseases pretty well but requires frequent mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5552536384_1bc90958b3_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ferran Pestaña / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass looks beautiful with its soft-textured, fine grass blades. It forms a dense, medium- to dark-green lawn. Kentucky bluegrass grows best in full sun and is suitable for yards with high foot traffic. It also recovers quickly from damage.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass requires high maintenance and is susceptible to many diseases, so, it’s a good option only if you mix it with other cool-season grasses. You can use a grass blend of 75% Kentucky bluegrass and 25% fine fescue or perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_1perennial_rygrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass germinates in five to fourteen days, making it one of the fastest-growing grasses. It looks beautiful with its dense, dark green leaves. Perennial ryegrass grows best in full sun and with regular watering.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass tolerates high-foot traffic but can’t quickly recover from damages as it lacks rhizomes. It’s susceptible to gray leaf spot and leaf thread. You can mix perennial ryegrass with Kentucky bluegrass at a 75:25 ratio for the best results.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is shady, go with fine fescue. Tall fescue also tolerates shade and survives with four hours of dappled sun.
Fine fescue does well in dry conditions.
If you plan to use your lawn heavily, go with Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass.
Fine fescue is the best option for a low-maintenance lawn.
Grass Comparison Table
\n\n\n\n| Cool-Season Grasses | Spreads By | Shade Tolerance | Drought Tolerance | Maintenance Needs |
| Fine fescue | Bunch-type | High | High | Low |
| Tall fescue | Bunch-type | Moderate | Moderate | High |
| Kentucky bluegrass | Rhizomes | Low | Moderate | Moderate |
| Perennial ryegrass | Bunch-type | Low | Moderate | Moderate |
Cool-season grasses can quickly adapt to New York’s climate. Analyze your lawn’s condition and choose a grass type that best suits your requirements.
\n\n\n\nA good lawn isn’t all about planting the correct grass. It also includes choosing the best native plants and proper maintenance. For a closer look at how to get your lawn in tip-top shape for the warm-weather months, see this Wikilawn guide to spring lawn care in New York.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a lush, green, and healthy lawn without breaking a sweat, Wikilawn New York lawn care experts can help.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Pixabay
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for New York Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5037593984962405,"src":"/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/1789c/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/107df/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/293e9/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/f2cbb/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/1789c/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/c26c2/Lawn-in-New-York-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/1dd6e/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/67b76/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp 320w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/8df11/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp 500w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/98a65/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp 800w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/1dd6e/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp 960w,\n/static/ab553b1ebe5a16e3499d034ceded9e2c/3cc96/Lawn-in-New-York-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for New York Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"A lush, green, and healthy lawn starts with choosing the correct grass. Let's take a look at the best grass types for New York."}}},{"node":{"id":"ca3eaa6b-b4ce-5743-b3de-bc4b5e30d8a8","slug":"florida-homeowners-how-to-rid-your-lawn-of-mosquitos","path":"/lawn-care/fl/florida-homeowners-how-to-rid-your-lawn-of-mosquitos/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 5th, 2018","excerpt":"If you live in Florida, odds are you’ve heard at least one news story this summer that warned about the viruses linked to mosquitos. While these warnings may be redundant, the fact is that mosquitoes made a home in the humid, rainy state of Florida a very long time ago. Adding a copious amount of […]
\n","content":"If you live in Florida, odds are you’ve heard at least one news story this summer that warned about the viruses linked to mosquitos. While these warnings may be redundant, the fact is that mosquitoes made a home in the humid, rainy state of Florida a very long time ago.
\nAdding a copious amount of bug spray may help, but the best thing you can do is get proactive and make your lawn a nightmare for these pesky creatures. Mosquitos tend to only travel about half a mile from where they hatch, so if you can get them out of your lawn you can get them out of your life. At least your home life!
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/flooded-backyard-florida-1024x768.jpg\")
Photo: irrigationtech.com
\nA cheap and effective way to ward off mosquitoes is getting rid of their breeding grounds: that is standing water. Do not underestimate where these nuances can lay their eggs, they are not anything if not resourceful.
\nItems around the yard to be aware of:
\nIf you own a pool, which is understandably a must for some Floridian homeowners, keeping mosquitoes out of the pool comes down to pool maintenance. As long as the pool is up to date in its treatments, mosquitoes will not lay their eggs there. During extended times when the pool will not be in use, a pool cover will need to be secured tightly around the edges.
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/lemongrass-florida-1024x731.jpg\")
Photo: extension.msstate.edu
\nA great way to keep your garden free of mosquitos is putting in plants that naturally repel mosquitos. One of the best ways to maximize these plants natural repelling oils is by cutting off some of the leaves and snipping pieces around your yard.
\nThe most effective plant repellent is lemongrass and any close relatives. Research is still underway for other plant repellents, but lemongrass is a proven strategy.
\nFemale mosquitoes are the sole gender to feed on blood. Male mosquitoes feed on nectar from flowers. Placing mosquito repellent plants around the garden can keep the mosquitoes from feeding on any of the plants.
\nAlong with sitting water, clogged gutters and cluttered flower pots are prime real estate for mosquito hatchlings. These areas tend to become very moist when not properly cleaned and eventually encapsulate sitting water. It is recommended that homeowners clean their gutters at least twice a year: once during late spring and once in late summer or early fall. If there are an abundance of trees on the property, that recommendation climbs to every three months.
\nRaking regularly during the fall season to the summer season is very important in getting rid of excess debris. Flower pots should also be tidied up, along with emptying the saucer underneath if there is one.
\nOverwatering plants or grass will lead to excess water alluring to mosquitoes. Experts recommend only watering a lawn twice a week at an overall inch during summer and spring in order to keep grass flourishing. Any plant that requires little water can also be a great addition to the yards disassociation of mosquitoes and its overall aesthetic.
\nIt is slightly un-American to not yearn after a perfect lush green lawn, but that can be troublesome in the fight against mosquitoes. However, a surefire way to get that extra moisture to a minimum is watering the lawn in the morning. Watering in the morning allows for the lawn to soak in the water before the sun is in full fledge, but it also allows time for the sun to evaporate excess water before sundown. Watering the lawn at night will cause an excess of moisture leading to mosquitoes and can even cause fungus or disease in your yard.
\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/lawn-mower-florida.jpg\")
Photo: pixabay.com
\nMosquitoes love the heat, but interestingly they are prone to overheating. They take cover in overgrown grass during the day and come out at night to hunt. Lawn experts recommend mowing the lawn once a week during the summer for overall lawn health as well as diverging critters from extended stays.
\nHave questions about lawn care? Visit our Florida lawn care page or share your thoughts in the comments below.
\nTop photo: nytimes.com
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