![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Centipedegrass-2.jpg\")
A lush lawn is a dream for any homeowner, and achieving this goal with your Illinois lawn is possible. It is much easier to grow a healthy lawn without an abundance of pesticides or fertilizers with the right grass variety. Discover the 7 best grass types for Illinois landscapes. In this article, we will cover: […]
\n","content":"\nA lush lawn is a dream for any homeowner, and achieving this goal with your Illinois lawn is possible. It is much easier to grow a healthy lawn without an abundance of pesticides or fertilizers with the right grass variety. Discover the 7 best grass types for Illinois landscapes.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses perform best in the southern half of the U.S., entering active growth periods when temperatures range between 75 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cultivars are typically drought-tolerant and require regular summer mowing sessions to keep blades short.
\n\n\n\nIllinois’ warm-season grasses green up in late spring or early summer and go dormant when temperatures turn cold in the fall through winter. For the best results, plant seeds in the summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses prefer northern climates and cold winters. These grasses remain green throughout most of the year and thrive in cooler temperatures between 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool-season grasses enter their green-up phases in fall and early spring and go dormant during the hot summer months.
\n\n\n\nSeed cool-season cultivars in the spring or fall. Unlike warm-season grasses, these specimens prefer taller mowing heights to keep blades healthy.
\n\n\n\nThe following warm and cool-season grass types adapt to the climatic and soil conditions of Illinois:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCentipede grass is an excellent choice for Southern Illinois landscapes. It tolerates drought and requires little maintenance. Centipedegrass is a popular choice in coastal areas because it adapts to infertile, acidic soils, salt, and sand.
\n\n\n\nMany hybrid cultivars have increased cold tolerance. Centipedegrass requires adequate drainage and regular seeding until mature which typically takes two to three years. Specimens have coarse textures and light green colors. It has good shade and drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to ground pearl insects, grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, and lawn caterpillars
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nFine fescue comes in many varieties, including creeping red fescue and hard fescue. It thrives throughout the Land of Lincoln and requires regular mowing. It is a clumping grass variety with a fine texture. Homeowners often mix fine fescue with other varieties like Kentucky bluegrass to create a resilient home lawn.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue establishes quickly and has a deep green color. Cultivars are drought and cold-tolerant and grow well in poor soils. Fine fescue goes dormant during hot summers and prefers partially shaded areas. It is the most shade-tolerant of all the cool-season grass types.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grasses with one exception: creeping red fescues possess rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, powdery mildew, and downy mildew can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; most common pests are chinch bugs, sod webworms, grubs, billbugs, winter mites, and crane flies
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained soils; tolerates infertile and sandy soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Often used in a mix with other cool-season grasses, especially in sun/shade mixes
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is dark green with a dense, carpet-like texture that is the envy of the neighborhood. It grows well when seeded with other cultivars like tall or fine fescue and loves mild fall temperatures.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass tolerates some shade but prefers full sun. It also does not require much water to grow well. However, it is susceptible to weeds, especially dandelions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate; prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate; recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches; mow taller during summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; snow molds, summer patch, leaf spot, fairy rings, dollar spot, and necrotic ring spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate to high; most common pests are chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs, grubs, and greenbugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It is most often mixed with other species. Regular watering is necessary because of its shallow roots. Poor soil conditions and lack of water can cause diseases, but newer cultivars are more hardy and resistant to disease.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lolium_perenne_TK_2021-06-26_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: T. Kebert / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass grows best in the northern half of Illinois and does not grow well in high temperatures. It is a thick, dark green grass that stands up to heavy foot traffic and is pest-resistant. It establishes quickly and grows best in well-drained soils. Homeowners in the southern half of the state often use perennial ryegrass for winter overseeding to create a green lawn year-round.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch-type)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; requires four to five hours of sunlight
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; recuperates poorly
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High; requires frequent watering, mowing, and fertilization
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; susceptible to flag rust, stem rust, leaf spot, downy mildew, brown patch, and red thread
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; chinch bugs and greenbug aphids can occur
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable; prefers well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Poa-Trivialis-Winterplay.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nRough bluegrass grows well in poorly draining, moist, shaded areas. It has soft, glossy blades that create an uneven appearance unless lying flat. Rough bluegrass is yellow-green and has low drought and disease tolerance. It does not stand up well to heavy foot traffic. However, cultivars tolerate occasional flooding.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1 – 2 ½ inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; susceptible to brown patch, fairy rings, gray snow mold, helminthosporium diseases, mushrooms, and puffballs
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; ants, sod webworms, thrips, and white grubs can occur
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 – 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Rich, moist soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Rough bluegrass is winter-hardy and great for colder months. However, it has a weedy appearance when blended with other grass types.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a reliable, low-maintenance grass that is a great choice for northern Illinois. It tolerates both heat and cold. Tall fescue thrives in full sun and partial shade but needs to be irrigated to remain attractive during the summer.
\n\n\n\nCultivars thrive in fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 but adapt to other conditions. Tall fescue has a coarse texture, with a medium to dark green color and an extensive root system.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch-type)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate; recovers slowly
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations. Many cultivars grow best when mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate; can be prone to leaf spot, seedling disease, and brown patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate; susceptible to armyworms, cutworms, sod webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable; prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fertilize in September and November. Plant fresh grass seeds every couple of years to maintain a dense lawn and fill thinning spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a warm-season grass suited for southern Illinois. It grows well in warm temperatures and is drought-tolerant. Zoysiagrass is a dense grass that is light to medium green. It is weather-resistant and low-maintenance but establishes slowly.
\n\n\n\nCultivars grow best in full sun, turning brown and entering dormancy in the fall. Zoysiagrass has low water needs and requires frequent mowing.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, armyworms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\nGrass stops growing in the fall when temperatures consistently remain between 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
For cool-season cultivars, fertilize your lawn in spring between February to May. Fertilize warm-season grasses from May to June.
The ideal time for seeding in Illinois is Mid-August to early September or in April. Avoid seeding in late spring or summer during dormancy.
Are you looking for an extra set of hands to take care of your lawn? Picking out the right grass for your Illinois lawn is overwhelming. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local lawn care professional to take the hassle out of your yard work.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Gary Todd / Flickr / Public Domain
\n","title":"7 Best Grass Types for Illinois","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/1789c/lawn-in-illinois.jpg","srcSet":"/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/107df/lawn-in-illinois.jpg 320w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/293e9/lawn-in-illinois.jpg 500w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/f2cbb/lawn-in-illinois.jpg 800w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/1789c/lawn-in-illinois.jpg 960w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/c26c2/lawn-in-illinois.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/1dd6e/lawn-in-illinois.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/67b76/lawn-in-illinois.webp 320w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/8df11/lawn-in-illinois.webp 500w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/98a65/lawn-in-illinois.webp 800w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/1dd6e/lawn-in-illinois.webp 960w,\n/static/63df6ad153c5e47f04290f6cee1b0423/3cc96/lawn-in-illinois.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"7 Best Grass Types for Illinois | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover the 7 best grass types for Illinois' diverse climate. Achieve a vibrant, resilient lawn with our expert guide. Perfect for any Illinois landscape."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"b1c241f7-cd17-5d55-a68b-841402b95208","slug":"best-grass-types-los-angeles","path":"/lawn-care/ca/los-angeles/best-grass-types-los-angeles/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Judith Gallova","id":"8e48e42f-071a-5523-a889-6dab4c49dd54","path":"/author/judith-gallova/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/537ca09b018493e40c3fb0df17ebacbe?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"d4a57f5d-7087-5464-8fbc-e03c067b9723","name":"California","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ca/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"6ef486ca-ccd1-5849-a339-3c49569b40f6","name":"Los Angeles","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ca/los-angeles/"}],"date":"March 21st, 2023","excerpt":"Los Angeles is a vibrant city with stunning beaches and a moderate climate, but rainfall can be a little iffy. So if you’re looking to create a lush green lawn that can withstand the heat and dry conditions of the region, it’s important to know the best grass types for the City of Angels. In […]
\n","content":"\nLos Angeles is a vibrant city with stunning beaches and a moderate climate, but rainfall can be a little iffy. So if you’re looking to create a lush green lawn that can withstand the heat and dry conditions of the region, it’s important to know the best grass types for the City of Angels.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nAll grasses are classified into one of these two categories:
\n\n\n\nLos Angeles is warm throughout the year, with sunny summers and mild winters. Because of this, cold-season grasses typically don’t do well in Los Angeles. Warm-season grasses obviously handle high temperatures and drought better.
\n\n\n\nLet’s take a closer look at some of the best warm-season grass types for Los Angeles below.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bentgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nLos Angeles’ warm climate is a breeze for native California bentgrass. This grass stays a deep green color whether it’s in the sun or in the shade. It tolerates drought as well as moderate moisture.
\n\n\n\nThe grass is low-maintenance; you can let it grow and form a meadow or cut it as you wish. However, be careful not to cut it very short after leaving it long because this can shock this grass. Its medium texture and uniform growth habit make it a perfect addition to any LA lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe downside of this grass is that it takes a long time to grow. It’s available as sod, but because the grass grows slowly, sod is more expensive than alternatives.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Medium; full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low; but mowing must be consistent or the grass must be left to grow freely; also takes a long time to grow
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Up to you; naturally grows up to 4 to 28 inches; mow consistently to avoid scalping; in any case, never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mow
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sand-Dune-Sedge.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tortie tude / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYou may have seen this shade- and drought-tolerant perennial grass on your local beach, but did you know that it can also grow on your lawn? Sand dune sedge tolerates various soil types and is low-maintenance. You can grow it long or mow it regularly to keep it short and tidy.
\n\n\n\nThe unique texture and color of the sand dune sedge makes it a fantastic addition to your landscape design. But keep in mind that it grows in clumps, so it’s not the best option for a uniform, carpet-like lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Up to you; naturally grows up to 0.7 to 1.3 ft tall; never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mow
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass, also called wiregrass, is a dense, low-maintenance grass that grows in various soil conditions and thrives in hot, sunny climates. Its colors normally range from light to dark green. It doesn’t need much water, grows in most soil conditions, and can handle drought well. All these advantages make this grass a desirable choice for many LA homeowners.
\n\n\n\nMoreover, Bermudagrass is perfect for high-traffic areas because it tolerates wear and tear. In fact, it spreads so rapidly that it needs to be mowed frequently and can be invasive if not properly contained.
\n\n\n\nThere are different types of Bermudagrass, from the low-maintenance common Bermudagrass to the high-maintenance hybrid Bermudagrass with a fine texture. Be sure to choose a type that works for you and meets your expectations and preferences.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes (rapidly)
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High, but may turn brown and dormant in an extended drought
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; grows back quickly after suffering damage
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; some varieties are more shade-tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; needs mowing once or twice per week and is susceptible to many pest and disease problems
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1 to 2 inches
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/UC-Verde-Buffalograss-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Susan Harris / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCalifornia buffalograss, formerly known as UC Verde, is a cultivar of native buffalograss that’s better suited for use in California. This grass is drought-tolerant and dense. It’s a low-maintenance option that requires less water than some of the other grass types. Moreover, it needs little to no chemical treatment and produces less pollen.
\n\n\n\nYou can let your California buffalograss grow freely for a meadow-like look or mow it regularly for a more traditional lawn appearance. In any case, this bright green grass is soft to the touch and tolerates moderate foot traffic, making it an excellent option for your lawn during the summer.
\n\n\n\nOne thing about the California buffalograss: It gets weedy until it’s well-established. Installing sod may be easier. Once established, however, California buffalograss resists weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St-Augustine-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nIf you just can’t wait to see your new grass, St. Augistinegrass may be a fitting choice for you. This grass germinates quickly, making it ideal for those who want to see results quickly. It’s a blue-green grass with a coarse texture and medium density. Unlike some other warm-season grass types, St. Augustinegrass does well in partial shade.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, St. Augustinegrass doesn’t withstand drought, heavy foot traffic, and other stresses as well as other grass types. So if you choose it, make sure to provide it with adequate water and care and avoid excessive wear.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low; requires regular watering during dry periods to stay healthy
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate; some cultivars are more shade-tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High; requires regular irrigation and fertilization to grow healthy
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 3.5 to 4 inches for standard cultivars; 2 to 2.5 inches for dwarf cultivars
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nA number of homeowners favor zoysiagrass for its dense, carpet-like appearance and its ability to handle drought and thrive in various soils. This grass also withstands foot traffic quite well, making it suitable for busy lawns.
\n\n\n\nHowever, this grass is known for its high maintenance needs, too. It needs regular fertilization and supplemental watering to thrive. It may also need pesticides because it is vulnerable to certain pests.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, because zoysiagrass is so dense, thatch builds up rapidly and must be removed frequently. The grass takes a while to grow, which might make sod a better option, but it’s also more expensive.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low; requires supplemental watering, especially during dry periods
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High; dense growth resists damage, and spreading through stolons and rhizomes allows for quick recovery
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Higher maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: Depends on the species and cultivar; ranges from 0.25 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nIt depends on a variety of factors, such as your grass species and soil type. So, make sure that you research the specific needs of your lawn. In general, the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources says that grass should be watered about once or twice a week.
If you want a low-maintenance lawn in Los Angeles, your options are narrowed down to three grass types:
● Sand dune sedge grows in clumps and won’t look like a traditional lawn, but it doesn’t need much water or mowing
● California buffalograss was developed specifically for California, and you can keep it as long or as short as you like, but it might be a challenge to keep it weed-free before it establishes
● California bentgrass is easy to take care of, too; you can either let it grow freely or mow it, but if you prefer the latter, you’ll need to mow it continually to avoid scalping; it also takes longer to grow and its sod is more expensive than alternatives
If you have a busy lawn, there are grasses that can withstand foot traffic and grow back quickly after damage. The best Los Angeles grass types for a lot of foot traffic are:
● Native California bentgrass
● Bermudagrass
● Zoysiagrass
If you like a bit of shade on your lawn, the best grass types for a shady Los Angeles lawn are:
● Native California bentgrass
● Zoysiagrass
● Some varieties of St. Augustinegrass
● A few varieties of Bermudagrass
If you have pets, it’s recommended that you choose a grass type that’s pet-friendly. You can choose between these two warm-season types of grass:
Bermudagrass: is low-maintenance; tolerates a variety of conditions and wear and tear; spreads so quickly that it can become invasive; has a high drought tolerance; but can’t handle shade
Zoysiagrass: its dense growth discourages digging; it can spread dead patches from pet urine; it’s tolerant of shade and various kinds of soil; however, it also has a low drought tolerance and is high-maintenance
Although both of these grass types may be suitable for pets, they have different advantages and disadvantages. It’s important to consider your specific needs and the conditions of your lawn before you decide which grass to get.
Establishing a new lawn is an exciting experience, but you want to make sure that you’re choosing the right grass type. To sum it up, there are various kinds of grasses suitable for Los Angeles. The right choice depends on factors such as:
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, it’s important to consider other elements of your yard. If you, for instance, want to plant shrubs or flowers, you should research the best native plants for Los Angeles that will thrive in your specific climate and soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then need to provide your Los Angeles lawn with adequate care throughout the year. This includes, but is not limited to, grass aeration, fertilizing, overseeding, watering, and more. Correct lawn maintenance is needed to help it stay green and lush, so make sure you research all the necessary steps.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d like a pro to take care of your lawn for you, you can get quotes from WikiLawn’s Los Angeles lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Jeff_Hu / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Los Angeles","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/1789c/Lawns.jpg","srcSet":"/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/107df/Lawns.jpg 320w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/293e9/Lawns.jpg 500w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/f2cbb/Lawns.jpg 800w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/1789c/Lawns.jpg 960w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/c26c2/Lawns.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/1dd6e/Lawns.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/67b76/Lawns.webp 320w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/8df11/Lawns.webp 500w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/98a65/Lawns.webp 800w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/1dd6e/Lawns.webp 960w,\n/static/141e4d75fe4dcf43979c007046caec06/3cc96/Lawns.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Los Angeles | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Are you looking to create a lush green lawn that can withstand the warm LA weather? If so, read on to find out more about your best options."}}},{"node":{"id":"e8b5c6f2-0d05-5c19-abd1-95b7678080fd","slug":"drought-resistant-landscaping-ideas-for-wyoming","path":"/lawn-care/wyoming/drought-resistant-landscaping-ideas-for-wyoming/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lydian Pine is a creative writer and studio artist whose work first debuted in a short story anthology. She graduated from the University of North Texas in 2020 and enjoys video games, theatre, and swimming. Lately, she has started to study entomology as a hobby.","name":"Lydian Pine","id":"3478d9b1-e85b-5e4a-860b-443c62d1e29c","path":"/author/lydian-pine/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/f31ce7919bd939bc1f102cee2f3304d2?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"01f78449-8135-5644-8596-d22109013057","name":"Wyoming","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/wyoming/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2023","excerpt":"We rarely compare Wyoming to South Africa or Mongolia, but all three steppe locations have almost identical climates and soil. Wyoming’s arid climate requires drought-resistant landscaping to reduce irrigation strains. We have gathered 9 drought-resistant landscaping ideas for your Wyoming landscape to help conserve water and create a low-maintenance oasis. In this article, we will […]
\n","content":"\nWe rarely compare Wyoming to South Africa or Mongolia, but all three steppe locations have almost identical climates and soil. Wyoming’s arid climate requires drought-resistant landscaping to reduce irrigation strains. We have gathered 9 drought-resistant landscaping ideas for your Wyoming landscape to help conserve water and create a low-maintenance oasis.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDrought-tolerant landscaping requires very little water to remain green. Creating a drought-resistant, or water-efficient landscape, conserves water and reduces maintenance.
\n\n\n\nDrought-tolerant plants have adapted to arid conditions and have low watering requirements. Conserving water helps preserve the ecosystem. Most Montana native plant species are drought-tolerant options that require minimal supplemental irrigation once established.
\n\n\n\n![\"Xeriscaped](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/xeriscape-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: InCommunicado / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping focuses on low-maintenance landscaping with an emphasis on water conservation. The practice involves creating a beautiful home landscape that requires no watering except natural rainfall.
\n\n\n\nXeriscaping often relies on strategically placed indigenous plants that survive off rainfall, even in Wyoming’s dry, windy climate. Native plants and turfgrasses are a great water-wise option for xeriscaping your yard. They are naturally drought resistant and adapted to harsh seasonal shifts. Besides native plants, some basic steps for xeriscaping your yard include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of xeriscaping:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional xeriscaping costs between $5 to $20 per square foot, depending on many factors like plant selection and the size of your yard. While upfront costs may seem high, you will save around $0.36 per square foot annually on water and maintenance costs.
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/rsz_purple_coneflowers_echinacea_purpurea_19421755650-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Andrew C / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMost Wyoming native plants are perennials, bouncing back year after year, creating a low-maintenance landscape. Natives are adapted to Wyoming’s arid conditions, shifting temperatures, and local pests and diseases. Specimens are low-maintenance and attract local pollinators like hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.
\n\n\n\nThere are many Wyoming native plants to choose from, including:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of native plants:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Native plant prices vary widely based on many factors, including type, size, and location. On average, you can expect to spend between $15 to $50 per shrub, $5 to $50 per vine, and $200 to $1,500 per tree.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Artificial-Turf.jpg\")
Photo Credit: 2020Noe / Pixabay / License
\n\n\n\nSome grass types are more drought-resistant than others. Wyoming’s harsh climate requires a cool-season, drought-tolerant turfgrass that can survive the cold winters. Wyoming’s climate is classified as arid and continental, with extreme sunlight and shifting temperatures.
\n\n\n\nDrought-resistant Wyoming grasses include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of drought-resistant turfgrass:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional seeding or re-seeding typically costs between $700 to $1,850, depending on the size of your lawn and the seed cultivar you select. If you opt for sod installation, which takes less time to mature, you can expect to spend between $6,650 to $13,700.
\n\n\n\n![\"Mulch](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eyecrave / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nMulching is a low-cost DIY job and essential to xeriscaping. Mulch helps plants keep moisture and protects their roots from extreme temperatures. There are two types of mulch: organic and inorganic mulch.
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch adds beneficial nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. Inorganic mulches are more durable and low-maintenance but do not offer additional nutrients. It is important to note you will need to replace organic mulches like wood chips annually with a fresh layer.
\n\n\n\nSome examples of mulch are:
\n\n\n\nOrganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nInorganic mulch:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of mulch:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Mulch costs between $15 to $75 per cubic yard or around $2 to $6 per bag.
\n\n\n\n![\"leaks](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Irrigation_drip_leaks.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sciencehacker / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nDrip irrigation lines conserve water and are more efficient than traditional sprinklers, rotating sprayer heads, or garden hoses. Drip irrigation systems slowly deliver water directly to plant roots. They are installed underground or on the soil’s surface.
\n\n\n\nExperts can retrofit your existing automatic sprinkler system for drip irrigation. For a portable option, opt for a soaker hose you can move from bed to bed.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of drip irrigation:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Professional drip irrigation installation costs between $1.50 to $4.75 per square foot. Installing a drip irrigation system in a 500-square-foot zone typically costs between $750 to $2,400.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/rain-barrel.jpg\")
Photo Credit: zerocattle / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nHarvest rainwater for later use by installing a rain barrel station on your landscape. Place the rain barrel beneath a downspout. Many homeowners blend the rain barrel into the surrounding landscape by decorating the area with plants or rocks.
\n\n\n\nFor every inch of rain that falls on one square foot of your roof, your rain barrel harvests 0.6 gallons of water. A rain barrel system attached to a 100-square-foot roof collects up to 60 gallons of water after one inch of rain.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of a rain barrel system:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: A 50-gallon rain barrel typically costs between $100 to $150, depending on the material.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rain](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/52313269453_df788863db_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alabama Extension / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nRain gardens are small, shallow depressions that contain deep-rooted native plants. They are not only attractive but also conserve water. Rain gardens lower the risk of flooding and provide erosion control by reducing runoff. They naturally capture stormwater and filter out pollutants.
\n\n\n\nSome popular rain garden Wyoming plants include:
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of a rain garden:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: A DIY rain garden costs between $3 to $5 per square foot, while professional installation costs between $10 to $20 per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"Rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/28197524409_9c17d5a099_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Antífama / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nInstall stones and rocks to create an elegant rock garden or pathways. This simple DIY job does not have to cost a penny. Rock gardens are a great way to show off native Wyoming elements. Accentuate your rock garden with ornamental plants, water features, and more.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of a rock garden:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Rock garden installation costs between $400 to $1,000, depending on the size and materials.
\n\n\n\n![\"landscape-path-pathway-grass-lawn-walkway\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_landscape-path-pathway-grass-lawn-walkway-1149050-pxherecom.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nTurfgrass requires a lot of water to remain green. Limiting the turfgrass area of your landscape reduces its overall watering requirements. Consider replacing sections of your grass with sustainable hardscaping elements.
\n\n\n\nHardscapes are man-made features, including:
\n\n\n\nHardscapes do not require watering, pruning, or mowing. In fact, they don’t require maintenance at all except for an annual cleaning. Be prepared. Hardscapes are an expensive upfront investment, but they increase your home’s value and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nAdvantages of hardscapes:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: Be prepared to spend around $7,500 for a new deck, $4,000 for a patio, $850 for a fire pit, and $3,000 for a flagstone walkway.
\n\n\n\nSome strategies to minimize water usage in your landscape include:
● Install efficient irrigation, including drip lines and a smart controller with a rain sensor
● Group plants with similar watering needs
● Mulch your flower beds to reduce evaporation
● Practice good soil management techniques to improve moisture retention
Many established drought-tolerant plants can survive for several months without water. Factors affecting your plant’s ability to survive long drought periods include:
● Plant species
● Climate
● Soil type
● Plant health and maturity
The first step to a healthy, drought-tolerant landscape is good soil management practices. Follow some of these tips to help maintain healthy plant roots:
● Send a soil sample in for testing annually
● Add compost and organic matter to increase fertility and drainage
● Apply mulch
● Practice proper watering to avoid under or over watering
● Reduce soil erosion with windbreaks, retaining walls, or specialized plants
● Minimize chemicals
Yard work in Wyoming can feel like thankless work when there are so many chores to complete. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local lawn care pro to take care of your yard chores, so you can spend more time enjoying your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pancaketom / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"9 Drought-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Wyoming","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/1789c/devils-tower-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/107df/devils-tower-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/293e9/devils-tower-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/f2cbb/devils-tower-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/1789c/devils-tower-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/c26c2/devils-tower-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/1dd6e/devils-tower-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/67b76/devils-tower-1.webp 320w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/8df11/devils-tower-1.webp 500w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/98a65/devils-tower-1.webp 800w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/1dd6e/devils-tower-1.webp 960w,\n/static/6a7ae9732b5e2e9d1deb237aa6056138/3cc96/devils-tower-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Drought-Resistant Landscaping Ideas for Wyoming | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Create beauty and sustainability in your Wyoming yard with drought-resistant landscaping ideas that thrive in water scarcity."}}},{"node":{"id":"4e0d8cb2-9348-5c34-9621-9affb156fa88","slug":"best-ground-covers-yard","path":"/blog/landscaping/best-ground-covers-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"John Freedman","id":"2b0fdd6b-62df-527d-a469-37ab1935839b","path":"/author/joeyjoeyfarruggio-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/85c5c4009d774dbcc0eacb7cae07960a?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 8th, 2019","excerpt":"Ground covers are the unsung heroes of your yard and garden. They fill in bare areas where grass won’t grow, provide us with low-maintenance areas, and give us green leaves in the winter months. They can also offer carpets of blooms that attract pollinators and bring us joy. The mastermind behind Epic Gardening, Kevin Espíritu, […]
\n","content":"\nGround covers are the unsung heroes of your yard and garden. They fill in bare areas where grass won’t grow, provide us with low-maintenance areas, and give us green leaves in the winter months. They can also offer carpets of blooms that attract pollinators and bring us joy.
\n\n\n\nThe mastermind behind Epic Gardening, Kevin Espíritu, is a huge fan of ground covers as a lawn replacement. “If you have children or pets who are likely to play in your yard, you can do a blended yard,” he says, adding, “Be mindful of both your average high temps and your low temps, and pick plants that can handle both.”
\n\n\n\nNow that you’re convinced, take a look at some of the best ground covers for sun or shade in all climates.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_SDqGc7dP9YS9F6Y3RkvK_8iO3lTYkZZZ5VNlOL6sedxdWXBAJa5RPVA6ZBfP4rVwgY6DGapir_ww-ob8xo6Y-QscKHAKscDBJmkf0xXfYAs_afx7MnbKteF8mUu2610okjWik-R\")
Bugleweed comes in dozens of varieties ranging from green to bronze, purple, and sometimes even variegated. This ornamental ground cover stands up to heavy foot traffic and is hardy to minus 40 degrees. It can thrive in full sun to part shade and presents blue-purple flowers from late spring to early summer.
\n\n\n\nThis fast-growing ground cover spends months producing white flowers and is hardy all the way down to -30 degrees. Candytuft is drought-tolerant and prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It’s the perfect choice for sunny slopes and rock gardens.
\n\n\n\nThis perennial ground cover with chartreuse leaves is a favorite for its hardiness and attractive foliage. Creeping Jenny enjoys full sun but can tolerate part shade as long as the soil is moist. With a fountain-like growth pattern, she’s a favorite for raised flower beds and planters.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F60x8NcemcIl4tDxNhj0lfnrrohZY4EQxU2lPGir5Hb_PCrBjwPrOZw2HiuRcIgXVeOaLPzXSRaIFgAGjWeRHbVZd2I8gdtbWvHwnDXUd77Q_NEqsmUBPtUiBGpUhKG8um3oS6Xt\")
Deer resistant and cold hardy to minus 40 degrees, creeping phlox bursts into glorious bloom in spring. Best with full sun to part shade, this 6-inch-tall superstar performs well on slopes and retaining walls.
\n\n\n\nAdding stunning beauty to shaded areas, deadnettle has silvery, variegated leaves, and is hardy to minus 15 degrees. This deciduous plant offers cheerful pink flowers in late spring but dies back in winter. The only precaution to take when planting deadnettle is to make sure you’re not in an area where it’s considered invasive.
\n\n\n\nThe thyme family offers dozens of varieties of this hardy ground cover, most of which can handle temps down to minus 20 degrees. Only 3 inches tall, most varieties don’t attract deer or rabbits. Plant in full sun and enjoy a show of pink flowers in summer. and an herb for cooking all year.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Uru5bSHYQ_Bl5BvRgE0FWNnd9AMwMkHYn0XKgx7l2u1wWpnJOdVJozdHyp6T2SnGnU0uzKdbxq3Nl6v9YfumhAAW6fQTy6uVa5KxuTvF1uE7gaJMbzVY0_l-N9BnstfGoPg-BENA\")
This succulent, evergreen thrives in warm climates and can’t tolerate foot traffic or temperatures below minus 10 degrees. But on sunny, well-drained slopes, it provides beautiful texture and neon-bright, flowers from mid-summer to early fall. For high-visibility blooms and solid erosion control, ice plants are hard to beat.
\n\n\n\nThis drought-tolerant evergreen prefers part to full shade and is hardy to minus 30 degrees. The glossy, dark green leaves create a 12-inch tall mat of foliage that produces spiky white blossoms in late spring.
\n\n\n\nThis grasslike ground cover, also known as lilyturf, thrives in sun and shade (but needs moist soil) and is hardy to minus 15 degrees. Both clumping and creeping varieties erupt into spikes of purple, white, or blue flowers in late summer. Liriope makes an attractive garden edging and is good for erosion control or under trees as a substitute for grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/8vDsC_PoUx3TzLUQu3IfExcvkoDqrJ2fWxATHrfZ9J-lI7Ot8wzZLSGGw61FF8y-VwV4xgmwMme31AaupVrYyatVrhKgQUpp7RYDNltF1M9vPDKVdsdKK62C55AkEkDUd4dkF2Kz\")
One of the most popular evergreen ground covers, periwinkle, prefers moist soil in partly shaded areas. Hardy to minus 20 degrees, periwinkle is a vigorous, vining plant that may need to be cut back every so often to keep it under control.
\n\n\n\nWhether your goal is to cover the bare spots beneath trees or to fill the negative space in your flower beds, there’s a ground cover out there for the job. Choose wisely, and your groundcover will reward you for years to come.
\n\n\n\nTop image credit: “Ajuga reptans Chocolate Chip,” David J. Stang, CC by-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Best Ground Covers for Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5037593984962405,"src":"/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/1789c/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/107df/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg 320w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/293e9/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg 500w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/f2cbb/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg 800w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/1789c/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg 960w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/f605f/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.jpg 1000w","srcWebp":"/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/1dd6e/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/67b76/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp 320w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/8df11/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp 500w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/98a65/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp 800w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/1dd6e/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp 960w,\n/static/7b8928cb37101f2a439ec84a76a9602c/23e94/Ajuga_reptans_Chocolate_Chip_0zz-wikimedia-david-j-stang-ccsa40.webp 1000w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Ground Covers for Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"2ac26e99-18d8-5bde-8dcf-5d062d2435fb","slug":"best-grass-types-knoxville","path":"/lawn-care/tn/knoxville/best-grass-types-knoxville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Abdul Wadood is a writer and SEO specialist from India. He recently started writing about lawns and enjoys it. In his spare time, he enjoys going on trips.","name":"Abdul Wadood","id":"236127ca-c7a6-50bb-9ab7-dd3e7e3fe6d8","path":"/author/abdul-wadood/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/395f0103c8419fd32e2c021818b78121?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"985b5d1a-386d-5359-895c-ba65265ef522","name":"Knoxille","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/knoxville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"March 21st, 2023","excerpt":"If you want to increase the curb appeal of your property in Marble City, a great lawn is a must. And it all starts with choosing the right grass. Let’s take a look at the best grass types for Knoxville lawns. In this article: Best Grass Types for Knoxville Lawns Knoxville and the entire Tennessee […]
\n","content":"\nIf you want to increase the curb appeal of your property in Marble City, a great lawn is a must. And it all starts with choosing the right grass. Let’s take a look at the best grass types for Knoxville lawns.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nKnoxville and the entire Tennessee state are part of the transitional zone. So, what does that mean for grasses?
\n\n\n\nWinters are too cold for warm-season grasses, while summers are too hot for cool-season grasses. Generally, if your home receives a lot of sunlight, you should opt for warm-season grasses. If not, stick to cool-season grasses as they are more shade tolerant.
\n\n\n\nGo through the list below and choose the best grass type for your Knoxville lawn, depending on your requirements.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ty Haller / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTall fescue grass is the go-to choice for many Knoxville homeowners because it’s a highly adaptable cool-season grass. Tall fescue is heat- and drought-tolerant compared to other cool-season grasses, thanks to its 2- to 3-foot-deep root system.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is dark green and coarse with wide blades, making it highly durable and suitable for heavy foot traffic. It requires 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily for fast, dense growth.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ethan2039 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass (KBG) is a cool-season lawn grass widely used across the United States. It’s durable, soft on bare feet, and gives your lawn a dense appearance.
\n\n\n\nKBG has an excellent capacity for self-repair, but it doesn’t do well in shade. Kentucky bluegrass can be a great choice for Knoxville lawns when mixed with tall fescue seed mixture at a ratio of 90:10 (tall fescue to KBG).
\n\n\n\n![\"Closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/27905054331_597897e108_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCreeping red fescue falls under the fine fescue category of turfgrass. It’s a cool-season grass that thrives in shade, so it’s ideal for yards that have thick tree canopies.
\n\n\n\nCreeping red fescue grass also requires little maintenance. It needs just 4 to 6 hours of direct daily sunlight. If your yard receives more sunlight than this, you’ll need to water your grass more often. On the downside, it’s not as durable as other grasses.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is a warm-season, low-maintenance grass that can survive extreme heat. It resists cold better than other warm-season grasses and grows well in clay soil. Use a complete fertilizer between late August and mid-September to maintain the green color of this grass during winter.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is durable and soft on bare feet. You should not overwater buffalograss as it can spawn weeds.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a light green, warm-season grass that grows well in direct sunlight. It is more sensitive to cold than other warm-season grasses on this list.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass grows slowly, taking about 2 years to form a solid turf. It’s a low-maintenance grass, but since it takes a long time to grow, you should keep the weeds in check. One note of caution: It doesn’t withstand heavy foot traffic, so, avoid Centipedegrass if you use your lawn heavily.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a warm-season grass that loves full sunlight. It is excellent at tolerating foot traffic but requires frequent mowing. Bermudagrass has the fastest growth rate of any common warm-season grass.
\n\n\n\nThis grass looks beautiful during warmer months but turns brown during winter. You should apply fertilizer during early fall to maintain the thickness of the lawn as the weather gets colder and to keep the weeds under control.
\n\n\n\nYou can opt for cool-season or warm-season grass types, depending on the characteristics of your environment. Most areas in Knoxville are better suited for cool-season grasses.
Creeping red fescue tolerates shade very well.
Buffalograss is a warm-season low-maintenance grass. Creeping red fescue is a cool-season low-maintenance grass.
If your Knoxville lawn experiences high foot traffic, you can prefer centipede grass and Bermuda grass.
Buffalograss, centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, and creeping red fescue turf grasses have a high tolerance to drought.
Since Knoxville is part of the transition zone, you should consider many factors when choosing grass for your lawn. Generally, cool-season grasses like tall fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass (KBG), and creeping red fescue tend to perform the best in Knoxville.
\n\n\n\nKBG can be a great choice for Knoxville lawns when mixed with tall fescue seed mixture at a ratio of 90:10, tall fescue to KBG.
\n\n\n\nBesides choosing the right grass type, you should also select the right plants for your Knoxville yard to make it look complete.
\n\n\n\nKeep your lawn lush and healthy with services from Wikilawn Knoxville lawn care experts.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brian Stansberry / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
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\n","content":"\nMoving to our nation’s capital is a big decision. You might have heard that it’s expensive and too busy to be your home, but don’t let those negative thoughts get to you. Living in Washington D.C. has some huge perks, plus a developing culture that is vibrant and alive.
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Looking for lawn care services in Washington DC? Or maybe you’re looking for lawn care advice because you’re a DIY kind of person? Visit our Washington DC lawn care page for more information.
\n","title":"What is it like to live in Washington D.C.? (in 30 Pictures)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/f2cbb/washington-dc-skyline.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/107df/washington-dc-skyline.jpg 320w,\n/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/293e9/washington-dc-skyline.jpg 500w,\n/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/f2cbb/washington-dc-skyline.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/98a65/washington-dc-skyline.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/67b76/washington-dc-skyline.webp 320w,\n/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/8df11/washington-dc-skyline.webp 500w,\n/static/f3b198f37a4cfc27cef588eaede05aa9/98a65/washington-dc-skyline.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What is it like to live in Washington D.C.? (in 30 Pictures) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"16d1d19a-5b82-534f-bfd2-e250c8ddf32d","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"I firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards. If you’re firmly […]
\n","content":"\nI firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re firmly in the Bahiagrass-grass-is-trash camp, let’s dive into different ways to get rid of Bahiagrass in your landscape!
\n\n\n\nWhether it’s in your lawn or taking up residence in your vegetable garden or flower beds, we’ve got options for you. I will also offer non-chemical approaches to get rid of Bahiagrass if you’re looking for sustainable solutions.
\n\n\nWhen you see Bahiagrass in your lawn or flower beds, the first instinct is to grab ahold of it and yank it out by hand. Manually pulling it out may work, but remember that it reproduces via rhizomes, so you have to remove the entire underground part of the plant, too. If you only hand-pull the top off, the rhizomes continue reproducing, sending out new grass shoots.
\n\n\n\nSo, with this in mind, you should attack Bahiagrass with a multi-pronged approach, employing cultural practices and chemical or natural herbicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nI understand if you’ve ever stood in the lawn chemical aisle at your local hardware or big box store feeling overwhelmed and dizzy by all the choices. There are shelves of different products claiming to control various weeds. And it is essential to pick the right one for the task.
\n\n\n\nBefore we get into specific products, let’s talk about two types of weed killers and what sets them apart from one another: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nI try to use pre-emergent herbicides whenever possible, as it’s easier to stop weeds from germinating (and yes, I’m going to classify Bahia as a weed in this situation) than it is to get rid of them once they sprout. You have limited pre-emergent options if you have Bahia growing on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlease note that it’s imperative to read the product label thoroughly. Only use herbicide you know is safe for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nCompared to pre-emergent products, you have many more options for post-emergent herbicides. However, care must still be taken to ensure you don’t harm your lawn. And be forewarned that you may need to apply these products more than once to control Bahia because of its deep rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nThe following selective herbicides are labeled for use on specific turf types, so they won’t harm the intended grass but should tackle the Bahia infestation. Plus, they’ll likely also get rid of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a little easier to control in flower beds or garden plots. While there is controversy surrounding glyphosate (commonly sold as RoundUp), it is an effective weed killer and works well when you are looking for something for spot treatment. Glyphosate is non-selective, killing anything it touches; be careful not to spray it when it’s windy or when the Bahia is close to other desired plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBeyond chemical treatment methods, you can implement some essential lawn care practices for the control of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nEncouraging a healthy, lush lawn is the best way to prevent unwanted grasses and weeds. A thick, dense carpet of grass will naturally choke out unwanted Bahia trying to take hold.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn on a regular schedule based on the type of grass you’re growing. For most grasses, this will be at least twice per year. Bahiagrass has low nutrient needs, so regular lawn fertilization will hinder its growth and keep it from returning.
\n\n\n\nBahia spreads primarily through underground rhizomes but also puts out distinctive, Y-shaped seed heads. These seed heads disperse and further spread the unwanted grass when left alone. Mowing your lawn consistently—at the appropriate lawn mower height for your turf type—helps prevent any Bahia in your grass from going to seed and spreading.
\n\n\n\nWhen dealing with Bahia that has gone to seed, you should bag and dispose of your grass clippings versus letting them fall back on the grass.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn so it isn’t too dry is a fantastic way to discourage Bahia from growing. Bahia is revered for its drought tolerance and will quickly move into established turf if the soil is too dry and the existing grass is stressed.
\n\n\n\nWater your grass deeply, yet infrequently, several times a week. Aim to give it about one inch of water (total) over the course of a week, but this amount varies slightly based on the grass you’re growing and the soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is opportunistic and will take over empty space, including the bare spots in your St. Augustine or Bermudagrass lawn. To help prevent it from sneaking its way in, anytime you see bare spots in your grass, sow grass seed quickly and cover the soil with a layer of mulch. Growing new grass as soon as possible will help keep Bahia at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFor those who want to veer away from traditional chemical control methods, you have a couple of options that may work. A quick caveat though: these methods typically have a lower success rate and take much longer to see results.
\n\n\n\nSome people swear by using vinegar (scientifically known as acetic acid) as a weed killer. Mix one cup of white distilled vinegar, one cup of water, and a few drops of dish soap from under your kitchen sink. Shake the ingredients together and spray or pour it directly on the Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nThe vinegar pulls water out of the plant, drying out the leaves and ultimately (hopefully) killing whatever you pour it on. This is why it’s essential only to spray it on weeds, making sure it doesn’t get on anything you want to keep.
\n\n\n\nI’ve tried this method myself and have gotten mixed results. I’ve found it works best if you apply it on hot, sunny days and then repeat it every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large Bahiagrass patches in your lawn or garden you want to get rid of, an effective way to tackle them naturally is to deprive the entire section of sunlight. Cover the Bahia with black plastic sheeting or large garbage bags, securing the corners so the covering stays in place. After a couple of weeks, everything under the plastic should be smothered out and dead.
\n\n\n\nPersonally, I think this method is best for your garden and flower beds. If you use it on your lawn, you’ll also kill any other grass in the area.
\n\n\n\nLastly, if you’re looking for an alternative pre-emergent method, you can apply corn gluten meal to your lawn. Use about 20 pounds of it per 1,000 square feet of grass for the best results.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal has been used as an organic, natural pre-emergent herbicide for many years. Researchers at Iowa State University unintentionally discovered its pre-emergent properties in the early 1990s. When applied to the soil, it releases dipeptides, organic compounds that dry out seeds, so they have trouble sprouting.
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a chemical control option, you must carefully choose a product that considers Bahia a “weed” and kills it without damaging your turf. Some commonly used post-emergent herbicides include metsulfuron-methyl, sethoxydim, and imazaquin. Always read the product label and double-check that the herbicide is safe for the type of grass you’re growing.
The biggest problem with leaving Bahiagrass mixed in your turfgrass is its potential to spread and take over. If left unchecked, it could push out your desired turf, whether St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, etc. Plus, Bahia seed heads are unsightly and pop up quickly when left unmowed.
Centipedegrass is the best choice if you’re looking for a warm-season turf that naturally keeps Bahiagrass out. It forms a dense, thick carpet of lawn that will usually keep Bahiagrass from creeping in or choke out any existing plants.
Hopefully, these ideas will help get rid of any unwanted Bahiagrass in your lawn. Once you’ve removed it, we’ve got plenty of resources online to help you with grass and lawn care to keep it from returning. And if you ever need help with lawn weed control, lawn care experts are only a click away!
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/107df/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/293e9/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/f2cbb/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/c26c2/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/67b76/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/8df11/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/98a65/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/3cc96/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Here are some of the best ways to get rid of weedy Bahiagrass in your landscape without damaging your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"80f99559-1e72-59e1-ad9c-5cdf4e6b8618","slug":"how-build-backyard-putting-green","path":"/lawn-care/how-build-backyard-putting-green/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Kelly Holland","id":"87ed81cb-6dc6-5b6f-8673-e295fb5aa8f3","path":"/author/karen/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a7bdc84bcad759506a493dca25650999?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 15th, 2019","excerpt":"So your golf game isn’t up to par, and you need to practice, practice, practice! But who has time to go to the driving range to practice their chipping? Hit the green any time you want without ever getting in your car by putting a putting green in your backyard. Adding your own putting green […]
\n","content":"\nSo your golf game isn’t up to par, and you need to practice, practice, practice! But who has time to go to the driving range to practice their chipping? Hit the green any time you want without ever getting in your car by putting a putting green in your backyard. Adding your own putting green to your landscape will make you everyone’s best friend and do wonders for your short game!
\n\n\n\nBefore you go digging up your lawn:
\n\n\n\nWhere you build your outdoor putting green will determine whether it’s a hit or a failure! Some of the things to consider are how much sun hits the area (when using real grass), slope, and airflow. Choose an area that gets full sun when using real grass. This is best for growth and performance. Stay away from spots near fences and tall trees, as these will block the sun. Shade can cause the soil to hold in too much moisture. The right amount of sun also helps prevent mold and diseases that can destroy the green turf.
\n\n\n\nSpeaking of moisture, too much of a slope can drown your green. Low, deep areas of your lawn gather water, something that’s a definite no-no for a putting green. On the other hand, a completely flat area is boring, so you may want to keep or add some small bumps. No matter where you decide to build, install drains to the green dry. These drains should be no more than 10 feet apart and allow water to drain off in all directions.
\n\n\n\nAirflow (wind) is the third component when deciding the location. The right airflow helps the grass grow and stay dry. Don’t place the golf green in a spot where fences, shrubs, and trees block the wind. But, if you live in a very windy area, you may need to find a happy medium, so your ball isn’t constantly blowing around.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HYMZ5WGK4XW_km1QRQQARj6tHSiLItYiZLopBMxjb0onSlGTk6DAhE8syvrw5v-g6wbRKkKHvY7nejpw_Xpq2P1aUi2thpuxRtWatk3DO2QlwMSTjTMh9qJVx4R6rwPKdNhjf1Ug\")
Natural grass and synthetic putting greens each have their pros and cons. Most backyard putting greens made with real turf use creeping bentgrass. It’s less expensive to install than artificial turf and gives the look of a real golf course. The surface of creeping bentgrass provides a smooth, even surface for fast putts. Keep it trimmed to a quarter-inch or less. That means a lot of mowing, not to mention fertilizer, weeding, and watering! Installing real grass is initially cheaper than installing synthetic turf, but long-term maintenance is more costly.
If you want a low maintenance putting surface, artificial turf is the way to go. Synthetic grass is more expensive to install but requires little upkeep. While you do need to keep leaves and sticks off the area, you don’t need to worry about mowing, fertilizing, or weeding. Some golfers think artificial putting greens don’t look like an actual golf course. It’s also more difficult to move the cups around on synthetic turf than real grass. Keep in mind, synthetic grass has come a long way. If you install high-quality turf, few people will know the difference.
\n\n\n\nSome golfers are extremely handy and are capable of building a PGA style backyard green in a day or two. If you find it too time-consuming to do it yourself, it may be easier to hire someone to install the surface. There are quite a few steps involved, but you may enjoy the process and feel a sense of accomplishment when you’re done. Be aware there’s more to it than just digging up the backyard and laying down turf and cups.
\n\n\n\nThe digging, hauling and cutting require a lot of effort. Of course, the size and style of your green will have an impact on price no matter who installs it.
\n\n\n\nReal grass and artificial turf both require maintenance but grass requires more. To keep it at a half-inch or less, you’ll be mowing every other day. The green needs frequent watering. You’ll also put down fertilizer and fungicide. Keeping pests from destroying your hard work is also high on the list. Clark Throssell of Purdue University’s Extension Office says, “Several insects and diseases are potential pests of creeping bentgrass greens. The first step in pest control is to produce a dense, actively growing stand of grass.” If that doesn’t work, you may need an insecticide.
\n\n\n\nA backyard putting green is an investment in your home’s charm as well as in your own leisure time. So what you put into it is a predictor of what you’ll get back.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Lotus Head, CC by-SA 3.0
\n","title":"How to Build a Backyard Putting Green","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/1789c/1280px-Golfball.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/107df/1280px-Golfball.jpg 320w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/293e9/1280px-Golfball.jpg 500w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/f2cbb/1280px-Golfball.jpg 800w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/1789c/1280px-Golfball.jpg 960w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/356ef/1280px-Golfball.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/1dd6e/1280px-Golfball.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/67b76/1280px-Golfball.webp 320w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/8df11/1280px-Golfball.webp 500w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/98a65/1280px-Golfball.webp 800w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/1dd6e/1280px-Golfball.webp 960w,\n/static/e1313e45a32c756004f18bbb48a56cb0/93f70/1280px-Golfball.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Build a Backyard Putting Green | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"1b014bac-5927-53f1-82b6-a11cf2f1aba3","slug":"best-grass-types-mississippi","path":"/lawn-care/ms/best-grass-types-mississippi/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Andie Ioó is a writer for LawnStarter. In her free time, she enjoys traveling with her husband, sports, and trying out new healthy recipes. She also loves reading and watching reruns of classic '90s TV shows.","name":"Andie Ioo","id":"00424d9e-71f7-5a65-a764-eb85c6210e90","path":"/author/andie-ioo/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c7090b8e789516e6df2e9bd1a57a1ece?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"690c1e77-e03d-574f-811e-b355bf8606f1","name":"Mississippi","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ms/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2023","excerpt":"Mississippi’s diverse climate allows for both warm-season and cool-season grasses to grow, though high rainfall and hot temperatures sometimes hinder the successful growth of a lush lawn. Despite these challenges, agriculture has been successful in Mississippi for centuries thanks to its naturally fertile soils. Whether you choose a warm-season or cool-season grass for your landscape […]
\n","content":"\nMississippi’s diverse climate allows for both warm-season and cool-season grasses to grow, though high rainfall and hot temperatures sometimes hinder the successful growth of a lush lawn. Despite these challenges, agriculture has been successful in Mississippi for centuries thanks to its naturally fertile soils.
\n\n\n\nWhether you choose a warm-season or cool-season grass for your landscape depends on many factors. Our guide will tell you everything you need to know about choosing the best cultivar. Read on to discover the 7 best grass types for Mississippi.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re new to lawn care, distinguishing between cool-season and warm-season grasses can be challenging. Although many maintenance tips apply to both types, they have their share of differences.
\n\n\n\nNorthern Mississippi is in the transition zone, experiencing both hot summers and cold winters. Both cool-season and warm-season grass types grow well in these regions. In the rest of the Magnolia State, warm-season cultivars dominate.
\n\n\n\nEvery homeowner should know when their grass grows, when it goes dormant, and how it handles climate conditions. Whether you select a cool-season or warm-season grass depends on your preferences, location, and the characteristics of your landscape. Consider the unique traits of different grass types:
\n\n\n\nBottom line: Plant warm-season grasses in late spring or early summer, and stick to sowing cool-season varieties in the fall.
\n\n\n\nThe following grass types adapt to the climatic and soil conditions of Mississippi:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass, also known as Bahama grass or dog’s tooth grass, is an excellent choice for many parts of the South, including Mississippi. It is quick-growing and thrives in most soil types. Bermudagrass is drought, humidity, and salt-tolerant and grows best in full sun.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season cultivar stands up to heavy foot traffic, recovers quickly, and is disease resistant. Bermudagrass is relatively high-maintenance, requiring weekly fertilization and watering during the spring growing season.
\n\n\n\nCommon bermudagrass is coarser in texture, though hybrid cultivars can create a more fine-textured, albeit high-maintenance, lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and is able to outcompete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns. Tolerant of most soil types
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Carpetgrass.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Sugeesh / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nCarpetgrass likes tropical climates, moist, fertile soils, and full sun but can easily thrive in partial shade. In fact, experts recommend planting carpetgrass in Mississippi landscapes with large shade trees.
\n\n\n\nCarpetgrass thrives on one inch of water per week. It is a low-maintenance and adaptable grass with a coarse texture that creates a dense, light-to-medium green lawn. It is high-maintenance like bermudagrass and requires regular mowing.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Mow weekly to control seed heads
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Large patch is common
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Infertile, moist but not waterlogged, acidic, sandy
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Usually established by seed. Flourishes in warm and humid conditions along the Gulf Coast. Does not thrive in arid climates.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThough slow-growing, centipedegrass is a Mississippi favorite. This medium-textured grass has bright green leaves and a dense growth habit. It is low-maintenance and disease and pest-resistant. Cultivars grow well in partial shade but prefer full sun.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass isn’t exceptionally drought-tolerant and requires sandy, limestone soils for steady growth. It prefers acidic soils with a pH below 7.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; doesn’t tolerate heavy traffic; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_starr_070906-8518_zoysia_sp.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a drought and heat-tolerant warm-season grass that blooms in May. It prefers full sun and sandy, well-drained soils. It is more cold and shade-resistant than other warm-season cultivars thanks to a deep root system. Cultivars can hold their own against drought, heavy foot traffic, and weeds.
\n\n\n\nThis slow-growing, dark-green turfgrass produces a dense lawn that needs to be cut with sharp mower blades. Insects have a hard time invading zoysiagrass thanks to its thick blades and growth habit.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a popular cool-season grass, well suited for the northern regions of Mississippi. It is easy to establish, has a coarse texture, and remains green during the cold months when warm-season varieties turn brown and go dormant.
\n\n\n\nTall Fescue is a bunch-type grass that grows most vigorously during spring and fall. It is adaptable but prefers fertile, well-drained, clay soils. Cultivars require regular irrigation during the summer months. Tall fescue loves the sun but tolerates moderate shade.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch forming)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – doesn’t recover easily from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations, as many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate – can be susceptible to brown patch, leaf spot, seedling disease, cutworms, armyworms, grubs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fertilize it only once in September and November. To restore the lushness of your lawn and address thinning and patchy areas, it is recommended to sow new grass seeds every few years.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a high-maintenance, high-quality turfgrass with deep roots that rely on regular watering and fertilization. Kentucky bluegrass recovers quickly from injury, so active kids and pets running around won’t be a problem, and its beautiful bluish-green color increases curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nCultivars form a fine-textured, dense, carpet-like lawn, but take six months to thicken. While it grows best in the sun, it doesn’t tolerate high heat and drought unless it is well irrigated. Plank Kentucky bluegrass in northern Mississippi and Tennessee border regions.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate, but will survive by going dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency; a high-maintenance grass
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, fertile
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Produces a dense lawn under ideal conditions; many of these traits (shade tolerance, drought resistance, etc.) vary widely by cultivar, with newer cultivars generally being hardier, more resistant to disease, etc.; mow taller in summer; most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: T. Kebert / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is widely used throughout the U.S., but its application varies from region to region. Cultivars are commonly found in the northern regions of Mississippi, where cool and warm temperatures meet in the middle.
\n\n\n\nIt is a deep green-colored grass with a glossy texture and the highest traffic tolerance of any cool-season variety. Perennial ryegrass is often used around homes, schools, athletic fields, and parks.
\n\n\n\nThis rich, fine-textured grass wins major points for its fast germination rate, quick establishment, and disease resistance. While not as cold-hardy as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, perennial ryegrass thrives in moderate summers and cool winters. It is important to note cultivars are usually mixed with other grass types like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, or fine fescue to create a hardy and drought-tolerant lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low (summer dormancy in some areas)
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but poor recuperative ability
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing requirement, depending on cutting height (lower cutting heights require more frequent mowing)
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, especially in areas with hot, humid summers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Most often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue in a cool-season mix; well known for its excellent striping ability, low mowing tolerance (reel mower fans, this one’s for you), and rapid germination rate (four to seven days). Needs moderate levels of fertilizer
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is preferred when it comes to heavy foot traffic in the Southern states.
Zoysiagrass is one of the easiest turfgrasses to maintain. It withstands drought and survives in poor soil conditions with little upkeep. It also stands up to diseases, pests, and weeds.
Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are the best cool-season grass varieties for shaded lawns, while zoysiagrass is the most shade-tolerant warm-season cultivar.
When choosing a grass type for your lawn, consider sun exposure, soil type, watering capabilities, and maintenance needs.
\n\n\n\nThe grass type you select should match your needs and budget. Whether you pick bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, fine fescue, or any other cultivar, a well-maintained lawn is the difference between fab and drab. For additional inspiration, check out our guide detailing the best native plants for Mississippi.
\n\n\n\nFor a worry-free lawn care experience and a healthy outdoor space, let Wikilawn connect you with a local lawn care pro today. Our trusted experts are spread out across Jackson, Southaven, Olive Branch, Pearl, Ridgeland, and many other cities in the Magnolia State.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: ScottOldham / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"7 Best Grass Types for Mississippi","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.2396694214876034,"src":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1789c/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/107df/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/293e9/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/f2cbb/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1789c/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/c26c2/lawn-in-mississippi-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1dd6e/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/67b76/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 320w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/8df11/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 500w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/98a65/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 800w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/1dd6e/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 960w,\n/static/bdcaf11226e03f7031d86441b0bbf7d6/3cc96/lawn-in-mississippi-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"7 Best Grass Types for Mississippi | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"From bermudagrass to Kentucky bluegrass, choose one of the 7 best grass types for Mississippi’s humid, subtropical climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"0780c0a3-fa8d-53da-a198-f0b693504897","slug":"why-most-lawn-care-companies-shouldnt-be-using-google-adwords","path":"/lawn-care/why-most-lawn-care-companies-shouldnt-be-using-google-adwords/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 14th, 2019","excerpt":"Google Adwords can be a powerful way to grow a business. With 1.2 trillion searches each year it’s certainly tempting to go after a share of those searches with paid search. You can start getting web traffic instantly, the clicks are people who are in the buying cycle, and you can track your ROI very […]
\n","content":"\nGoogle Adwords can be a powerful way to grow a business.
\n\n\n\nWith 1.2 trillion searches each year it’s certainly tempting to go after a share of those searches with paid search. You can start getting web traffic instantly, the clicks are people who are in the buying cycle, and you can track your ROI very accurately.
\n\n\n\nI’ve even written about how landscapers can use Google Adwords to grow their business.
\n\n\n\nHowever, I must say, that some 95% of lawn care and landscaping businesses should stay off of Google Adwords.
\n\n\n\nNo matter what Google’s marketing message says, Google Adwords is an extremely complex system. Just setting an account up properly takes a fairly large amount of knowledge, and most businesses–large and small–get it wrong.
\n\n\n\nAt WikiLawn, we partner with lawn care businesses to help them grow. Many of them use Adwords as well, and I’ve offered to take a look at their accounts since digital marketing is what I live and breathe.
\n\n\n\nEvery time I’ve looked at these accounts, I’m disappointed. None have been set up particularly well, and most are missing even the basics. What’s even more saddening is about half were blatantly losing money.
\n\n\n\nI can also use competitive tools combined with our proprietary knowledge of industry margins to estimate what other companies are making and losing on Adwords. Most are not making money.
\n\n\n\nFor starters, even if you know the ins and outs of Google Adwords, the platform requires continuous maintenance. Landscapers are among the busiest small business owners there are. Do you really think you have an extra 30 hours per week to spend?
\n\n\n\nAlso, the nature of the landscaping industry makes setting up Google Adwords complicated. The conversion funnel typically goes as follows:
\n\n\n\nHere’s how this process makes bidding on Adwords extremely complex:
\n\n\n\nAdwords is complex enough on its own, but add in the complexities of the landscaping industry and it’s no wonder so many lawn and landscape businesses lose money on Adwords.
\n\n\n\nHere’s the kicker. The higher you bid on Adwords, the more clicks you get. But with so many businesses that don’t realize how much money they’re losing, it becomes very difficult to get any clicks at a reasonable price whatsoever.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, hiring a marketing agency is no silver bullet. Many of the bank-account-draining accounts I’ve looked at were run by local agencies.
\n\n\n\nThe fact of the matter is that most local lawn care businesses can’t afford a top-tier agency. Competent agencies start at $5,000 / month, and that doesn’t include your ad spend. Running an Adwords campaign is a lot of work, so an agency charging a fraction of that is likely cutting corners.
\n\n\n\nSimple agency economics don’t work out for small businesses. It’s very hard for an agency to make money if they’re charging less than $1,000 / month. I’m sure there are exceptions to the rule, but be very wary of retaining agencies. They tend to be better at selling new clients than they are at delivering on their promises.
\n\n\n\nSo Adwords may not be the right option for you, but there are still plenty of options to grow your business.
\n\n\n\nFor starters, you can always upsell your existing customers. This has no cost but your time. You can write a carefully crafted email campaign advertising specials, call your customers to see what they’re interested in, or spend a couple of minutes extra at each property on your route making a list of projects that they could use.
\n\n\n\nUpsells drive revenue and customers want them.
\n\n\n\nGetting reviews is currently one of the most powerful ways you can grow your business locally. First focus on the sites that provide organic (free) traffic, namely Google Local and Yelp.
\n\n\n\nSimply politely ask your customers to leave a review, complete your profile, and respond to every review good or bad.
\n\n\n\nThere are many platforms that partner with local lawn care businesses to send recurring lawn maintenance jobs at no upfront cost. We handle all of the customer acquisition and customer support, so all you have to do is complete the work.
\n\n\n\nLarger, regional landscaping businesses can afford to hire a competent marketing agency to run their AdWords, and also front the setup cost for all the tracking associated with it.
\n\n\n\nHowever, the bulk of the lawn care industry is from small local businesses. If you’re one of these businesses, I can only condone that you start doing AdWords if the following criteria are met:
\n\n\n\nStill have questions about lawn care? Please visit our lawn care page for information.
\n","title":"Why (Most) Lawn Care Companies Shouldn’t Be Using Google Adwords","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5058823529411764,"src":"/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/1789c/adwords-793034_1280.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/107df/adwords-793034_1280.jpg 320w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/293e9/adwords-793034_1280.jpg 500w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/f2cbb/adwords-793034_1280.jpg 800w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/1789c/adwords-793034_1280.jpg 960w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/356ef/adwords-793034_1280.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/1dd6e/adwords-793034_1280.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/67b76/adwords-793034_1280.webp 320w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/8df11/adwords-793034_1280.webp 500w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/98a65/adwords-793034_1280.webp 800w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/1dd6e/adwords-793034_1280.webp 960w,\n/static/2de3914448f9d6e935fdb9a599f8f562/93f70/adwords-793034_1280.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Why (Most) Lawn Care Companies Shouldn't Be Using Google Adwords | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"03dd2102-8e63-5cee-a960-06a4e9d62bd3","slug":"protecting-your-sprinkler-heads","path":"/lawn-care/protecting-your-sprinkler-heads/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Ruma Akter","id":"b4adb332-066f-5309-a11a-ada9d71b73f7","path":"/author/opushaon10/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ebb2426fcf700731e458d89422adc475?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"November 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Your sprinkler heads are easily the most vulnerable part of your sprinkler system — prone to sprinkler head damage from lawnmowers, your trimmer, freezing cold air and anything else that hits this part of the sprinkler that sits above ground. Here is what you need to know about protecting your sprinkler heads. Sprinkler donuts sound like […]
\n","content":"\nYour sprinkler heads are easily the most vulnerable part of your sprinkler system — prone to sprinkler head damage from lawnmowers, your trimmer, freezing cold air and anything else that hits this part of the sprinkler that sits above ground. Here is what you need to know about protecting your sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nSprinkler donuts sound like something delicious, but they are actually a lot less fun than a donut with sprinkles. Sprinkler head donuts are a quick, inexpensive solution to damage from lawnmowers. You can choose between durable concrete donuts or plastic ones — either way, they are designed to prevent broken sprinkler heads. Keep in mind the concrete donuts may cost a little more, but they are tougher than the plastic ones, and they won’t float away in a heavy rain like the plastic donuts have been known to do.
\n\n\n\nYour local landscaper may have installers who can put them in for you, but really it’s a DIY home improvement project. Your garden center or home improvement store should have the donuts, and only common garden tools are needed.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of whether you do it yourself or hire someone, the donuts will save you the headache of replacing those lawn sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nThe pop-up sprinkler is actually a solution to the problems caused by permanent sprinkler heads. “Mowing around permanent sprinklers in the landscape was quite a chore. Grass had to be manually trimmed near the sprinklers and occasionally one of the sprinklers was the victim of an inattentive worker on a mower. The ‘pop-up’ sprinkler was developed to alleviate this problem,” says the Clemson Cooperative Extension Home And Garden Information Center website.
\n\n\n\nThe other big threat to your pop-up sprinkler — or any watering method, like drip irrigation or even a faucet — is freezing temperatures. If water is left in the spray head when a hard freeze comes along, you could be looking at several broken sprinkler heads. The cardinal lawn care rule when frigid temperatures come along is to drain the water out of anything vulnerable.
\n\n\n\nHere are some things to do to prepare for pipe-bursting cold temperatures:
\n\n\n\nA good sprinkler system is a significant and convenient part of lawn care, but it’s also a complicated system with a lot of parts vulnerable to damage. That damage is avoidable if you take the right measures. A few sprinkler head donuts and a good draining in the fall will help keep your sprinkler heads in good working order throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: “Broken,” Daniel R. Blume, CC by-SA 2.0
\n","title":"Protecting Your Sprinkler Heads","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3769363166953528,"src":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/f2cbb/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg","srcSet":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/107df/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 320w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/293e9/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 500w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/f2cbb/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/98a65/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/67b76/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 320w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/8df11/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 500w,\n/static/617cbead0fba57c271967c4b4840773f/98a65/broken-sprinkler-daniel-r-blume-ccsa20.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Protecting Your Sprinkler Heads | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"34aeb542-c6ff-5451-bcc9-1242cd3df304","slug":"worst-weeds-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/worst-weeds-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Your lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. Here are Virginia Beach’s worst offenders.
\n","content":"\nYour lawn is the crown jewel of your home. Brilliant, green, and expansive. Then some weed saunters in and ruins everything. After all the time and money you’ve put into maintaining your grass, weeds spread effortlessly and quickly. They compete with existing vegetation for water and sunlight, produce a lot of seeds and become the dominant greenery. Invasive plants may look pretty at first, but they can turn your dream lawn into a nightmare. Here are some of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach yards and gardens and ways to deal with them.
\n\n\n\nThis oh-so-familiar shaggy, yellow flower is everywhere. We pick them as kids, blow the seeds into the wind and, spread that weed even more. The common dandelion (picture above) sprouts all year but mostly in the fall and spring. They’re everywhere — in fields, roadsides, and lawns — and they tolerate mowing. The leaves and stem have a milky sap. The yellow flowers turn into fluffy balls of white seeds that are taken by the wind, sometimes miles from where the original plant grows. There are several ways to keep your lawn from becoming a sea of yellow flowers. The best non-chemical method involves digging. But you have to make sure you get the entire root, or the weed will regenerate. You could try pouring an industrial-strength vinegar on the root, but beware. The vinegar will also kill any grass it touches. If you opt for a synthetic weed-killer, shop for a selective broadleaf herbicide that kills dandelions but not your turf. Better still, get in the habit of inspecting your lawn and at the first sign of the yellow flower, pull it up, before it has a chance to go to seed.
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant is known for its vigorous growth. The shiny, waxy leaves are dark green on top and lighter green underneath. Leaves are 2 to 4 inches long with small white hairs. It’s sometimes used for decorative purposes and makes an excellent indoor plant. But outside, it quickly overwhelms everything growing nearby. The ivy climbs buildings, the rootlets attaching to cracks and fissures, causing structural damage. It can even choke out tree growth by wrapping around the trunk and branches and limiting access to water and sun. There are two options for getting rid of English ivy. The first is chemical. This can be tough because the waxy ivy leaves are hard to penetrate. If you decide to go this route, glyphosate is the most effective. Because it kills everything it touches, be sure to spray only the ivy and none of the surrounding vegetation. The second method is manual. Cut small vines with pruning shears and pull them up by the roots. If you don’t remove the roots, the vines will keep growing back.
\n\n\n\nHairy bittercress is part of the mustard family and you CAN eat it. But you don’t want it taking over your yard. This is one of the worst weeds in Virginia Beach because it grows pretty much anywhere, but mostly in lawns and flower gardens. Once it’s in your lawn, it’s hard to get rid of. This annual invasive plant seeds over winter and starts growing at the end of the season, into early spring. The small plant can hide among your and disperse thousands of seeds, causing the weed to multiply quickly. The key to getting rid of hairy bittercress is to start early before seed pods form. Use a weeding tool to dig down and remove each plant. Like most weeds, pulling it usually leaves the roots behind. Do not add pulled plants to the compost pile, in case they manage to set seed.
\n\n\n\nThis weed flowers from June through November. It’s a broadleaf plant that shows up in turfgrass across the Southeastern United States. Virginia buttonweed flourishes in moist and wet areas and tolerates mowing. It can overtake your lawn, stealing vital nutrients from the grass. Overwatering and too much rain encourage its growth. Virginia buttonweed is difficult to get rid of because pieces of the plant or root continue to regenerate. One way to control it is to improve the health of your lawn with deep, infrequent watering. This gives the grass a fighting chance to compete with weeds. Pre-emergence herbicides are ineffective on Virginia buttonweed but some post-emergence weed control has proven effective.
\n\n\n\nHenbit produces a pretty purple flower, but unless you want those flowers across your entire yard, you’ve got to wage war on this weed. It’s a member of the mint family but doesn’t have the distinct minty smell. Henbit flowers in early spring and is self-pollinating. It spreads easily by seed and is part of a meadow ecosystem. But, unless you live in a meadow, you’ll want to remove it from your lawn and garden. The best control is to remove the entire plant before it sets seed. Hand weed and then mulch the garden beds. Be careful not to break the roots. A pre-emergent herbicide can prevent henbit from sprouting in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nKnowing how to spot and control thee weeds will keep the worst weeds in Virginia Beach off your lawn. Remember, maintaining a healthy, thick lawn is the best way to discourage these weeds from getting a foothold.
\n\n\n\nWant to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Virginia Beach? visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Dangling Spanish moss and meandering pathways bordered with tall oak trees create a picturesque scene in the heart of horse country. Tucked away in North Central Florida, Ocala’s spring temperatures range from 74 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Take advantage of the pleasant weather and implement our nine spring lawn care tips to help prepare your […]
\n","content":"\nDangling Spanish moss and meandering pathways bordered with tall oak trees create a picturesque scene in the heart of horse country. Tucked away in North Central Florida, Ocala’s spring temperatures range from 74 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Take advantage of the pleasant weather and implement our nine spring lawn care tips to help prepare your yard for the humid Florida summer just around the corner.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSpring in Ocala feels like summer to most of the United States. Average March temperatures of 79 degrees Fahrenheit gradually increase to 90 degrees by the end of spring in May. Like most of Florida, residents tend to lawn care year-round.
\n\n\n\nFrom March to May, Floridians care for their warm-season grasses hoping to encourage fresh growth before the extreme heat and humidity take over in June. Spring lawn care in Ocala is more than watering and mowing. As your yard goes through its most active growing season beginning at the end of March, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots that need some TLC. With the proper spring maintenance plan, your lawn will be ready to take on the tough summer.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"pitchfork](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/rsz_garden-ga772b33a8_1280.jpg\")
Photo credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nOxygen is the secret weapon for establishing deep roots and dense turfgrass. Aeration is a common lawn method to introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth. There are two types of common aeration: spike aeration and core aeration. Aerate your lawn in mid-spring to nourish your grass and stimulate root growth before the long, hot summer.
\n\n\n\nA core aerator removes plugs of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for North Central Florida soils. Sandy soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and lack the nutrients of other soil types. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up the soil, creating airflow, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aeration is less effective than core aeration. Spike aerators create small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. Unlike core aeration, this method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\nYou cannot bake a cake without preheating the oven, and the same goes for your spring lawn. Soil preparation is crucial to the success of your Florida landscape. It provides nutrients for your grass to thrive. Unfortunately, Ocala soils are notoriously sandy and nutrient deficient, requiring fertilization and other nutrient applications. Residents should send in a soil sample for testing in March.
\n\n\n\nSimply collect samples from different areas of your landscape and combine them to create a one-cup sample. Send this sample in to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances and nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaperflare
\n\n\n\nYour lawn feels stressed, just like you. While mowing more is the last thing you want to hear, every time you mow your lawn, you stress your turfgrass, leaving it more susceptible to insects, disease, drought, and sunscald. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots and a more dense appearance.
\n\n\n\nOcala’s subtropical climate requires year-round lawn maintenance. The city’s warm springs lead to early active growing seasons beginning in March. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height. To avoid injuring your lawn, never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf blade regardless of your cultivar.
\n\n\n\nAlways aim to cut less, more often. You should mow weekly within the recommended range for your grass type and leave clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nGrass growth peaks in March thanks to Ocala’s warm spring temperatures. Bahiagrass is the most low-maintenance warm-season variety. Aim to mow every seven to 14 days to maintain a height of 3 to 4 inches, encouraging deeper roots and a more dense and resilient turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the lowest-growing warm-season grass and the most high-maintenance, requiring weekly to twice weekly mowing sessions. Mow to a height of 1 to 2 inches to encourage deep roots and a better appearance.
\n\n\n\nThe most popular Florida turfgrass requires very particular mowing heights and is prone to scalping and sun scalding. Mow St. Augustinegrass to heights of 3.5 to 4 inches to encourage deep roots and decrease insect activity.
\n\n\n\nThe more frequently you mow this dense turfgrass, the less likely your lawn will develop a buildup of harmful thatch. While some thatch is a good thing, too much is harmful, blocking out light and water.
\n\n\n\nMow Zoysiagrass weekly, aiming for heights of 1.75 to 2.5 inches. Zoysiagrass leaves contain larger amounts of lignin and silica, making them more resistant and difficult to mow.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3 – 4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 3.5 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1.75 – 2.5 inches |
The best watering method for Florida turfgrasses is as needed early in the morning. Unless your lawn is brand new, all varieties respond well to typical drought conditions. It is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves.
\n\n\n\nWater these warm-season varieties as needed. Aim for ⅔ to ¾ inch of water per application. Each application will moisten the top 8 inches of soil, saturating the roots of your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nThe roots of bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass are more shallow than other cultivars. Aim to apply ½ to ¾ inch of water per application to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bermudagrass](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/what-is-dollar-spot_800-2.jpg\")
Photo credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / Public domain
\n\n\n\nThe subtropical climate in Florida creates the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi. The best defense against these lawn invaders is a healthy lawn and routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization. Some of the most common diseases affecting Florida turfgrasses are large patch, pythium root, gray leaf spot, take-all root rot, dollar spot, and spring dead spot.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus affecting St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass in winter through the end of spring. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance, and most infestations do not respond to fungicide applications.
\n\n\n\nImprove drainage and air movement. Monitor patches and limit fertilization in affected areas. Be sure to avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nSlow-growing, thinning turf with irregular bleached patches of yellow grass is a sign of the water mold pathogen pythium root. Pythium root occurs in poorly drained or over-watered soils and commonly affects St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass year-round.
\n\n\n\nAvoid spreading the infection by reducing mowing and watering frequencies. Combat current and future infections by improving drainage and increasing sunlight exposure, if possible. Apply a blend of phosphorus, potash, and nitrogen to the soil to combat active infections.
\n\n\n\nGrey leaf spot is another turfgrass fungus affecting St. Augustinegrass in Ocala beginning in April through the end of summer. Watch for grass that appears yellow, mottled, or scorched. Treat gray leaf spot with proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nImprove air circulation by reducing or removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations.
\n\n\n\nTake-all root rot is a soil-dwelling fungus active in spring through early summer. Be on the lookout for yellow or brown grass blades, wilting, horizontal stems, and dark brown roots.
\n\n\n\nTreat the warm-season turfgrass disease using fungicide labeled for take-all root rot. Apply to the affected area in 14-day intervals during spring. Prevent the fungus with proper lawn maintenance by improving drainage, reducing thatch buildup, and increasing the time between irrigation sessions.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects bermudagrass and bahiagrass. It is extremely common in the Southeast and is caused by a fungus living in Florida soils. Keep an eye out for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nTreat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer. Minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage and watering deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nSpring dead spot is another soil-dwelling fungus affecting bermudagrass in Ocala. Watch for circular patches of dead grass ranging in diameter from 6 inches to several feet. The easiest way to spot spring dead spot is to monitor your lawn during its active growth phase in March. Areas affected by spring dead spot will not go through the growth process.
\n\n\n\nTreat spring dead spot by removing thatch and aggressively aerating affected areas to relieve soil compaction and increase airflow.
\n\n\n\nOcala’s subtropical climate creates the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds invade your lawn, signifying an underlying problem with its health and maintenance plan. These plants thrive in low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf with damaged roots.
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your warm-weather grass and spread pests and diseases. The best control and prevention method is optimal lawn health from routine maintenance. However, supplemental chemical methods work in tandem with proper maintenance. Chemical methods include post-emergent herbicides and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides minimize the number of weeds in your yard by killing seeds before germination. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in March when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit to control grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nLook for solutions containing benefin, bensulide, oryzalin, or prodiamine. Wait 60 days and apply a second application of pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nCommon grassy weeds in Ocala include:
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds are a year-round problem in Florida. Post-emergent herbicides target annual and perennial broadleaf weeds, disrupting their growth. Use these herbicides year-round to target weeds you can see.
\n\n\n\nDo not use post-emergent herbicides if your lawn is moisture stressed or if temperatures rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, be sure to wait a few days after a fresh mow before applying chemical treatments.
\n\n\n\nCommon perennial and annual broadleaf weeds include:
\n\n\n\n![\"an](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spraying-pesticide.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nInsects love the year-round warm weather as much as Floridians, and like the seasons, different insects invade particular cultivars at different times. The most common Ocala springtime pests include chinch bugs, hunting billbugs, and nematodes.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs are the largest threat to your lush St. Augustine lawn. These foliage-seeking insects suck vital plant juices from your turfgrass with peak activity occurring in March and April. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs are a year-round problem for homeowners with Zoysiagrass. Watch for irregular-shaped patches of dead turf. Hunting billbugs feed on the roots of Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nLike chinch bugs, activity peaks in the spring, and infestations are often misdiagnosed as dormancy. Treat billbugs with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin, beta-cyfluthrin, or imidacloprid.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect most warm-season turfgrasses and are one of Florida’s most prolific pests. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots. Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms, and unfortunately, Florida is home to numerous types.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Nematode populations peak in mid to late spring, and nematodes need moisture to survive. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time to seed or replant your lawn in Florida. The active growing season beginning in March encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Both bermudagrass and bahiagrass are low-maintenance cultivars that respond well to overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Florida lawn in early March. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet for bermudagrass and bahiagrass varieties.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass do not respond to overseeding. Instead, plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in March, April, or May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart and water well daily. Keep crabgrass at bay by applying a root-safe pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spreading-fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nFertilizer promotes healthy growth, and the best time to apply this lawn food in Ocala is in mid-April before the Florida summer heat sets in. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your turfgrass cultivar and your unique soil sample analysis results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 15-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that Florida’s sandy soil is high in phosphorus, so it is often unnecessary to apply fertilizer containing this chemical. Apply 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-April, but keep in mind that shaded grass requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun.
\n\n\n\nThe Urban Turf Fertilizer Rule mandates that slow-release nitrogen fertilizer applications cannot exceed 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, and quick-release, soluble nitrogen fertilizer applications cannot exceed 0.7 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn.
\n\n\n\nUse sprinklers or an automatic irrigation system to apply water in 10- to 20-minute segments, twice per day, until the seeds have germinated. The germination process typically takes seven to 10 days in Florida.
Organic mulch provides moisture retention and nutrients for your plants. Florida residents can take advantage of the year-round warm weather and lay down new mulch anytime. However, the optimal time to lay mulch is in the spring or fall.
Irrigate your lawn in the early morning hours to cut down on evaporation and potential mold growth, which can lead to lawn pests and diseases.
Florida homeowners spend a lot of time outdoors and take pride in their lawns. With the proper spring lawn care schedule, you can enjoy your Ocala yard year-round and protect its lush, green color from the summer heat. Consider planting some Florida native plants alongside your warm-season turfgrass to complete your oasis.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help controlling your active spring lawn, contact an Ocala lawn care pro to help your turfgrass establish deep roots to survive the hot summer.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Ocala Historic District FK1027 / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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