![\"yellow](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/777px-Miami_Beach_-_South_Beach_Sand_Dune_Flora_-_Helianthus_debilis_Dune_Sunflower_29.jpg\")
Like many other Florida cities, Jacksonville has imposed watering restrictions. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the rules.
\n","content":"\nJust because we live next to an ocean, doesn’t mean we have access to unlimited water supplies. Fresh water is one of our most precious resources. That’s why there are watering restrictions in Jacksonville and many other cities in Florida. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the regulations.
\n\n\n\nWatering restrictions are enforced year-round in Jacksonville and throughout the 18 Northeast Florida counties in the St. Johns River Water Management District. You may water only on Saturday if your address ends in an odd number, and on Sunday if your address ends with an even number. You get an extra day during Daylight Saving Time (March-November). By limiting lawn watering, the hopes to conserve water during peak usage. Here’s a look at the summer schedule.
\n\n\n\nBut each year, when November arrives and you set back your clock an hour for Standard Time, your watering also must do a “fall back” to watering just once a week. That’s Saturday for odd-numbered addresses and Sunday for even-numbered addresses.
\n\n\n\nEven if it’s your day to water, you may not turn on the sprinklers between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. The reason? Most of the water ends up evaporating in the heat of the sun. You can turn the sprinklers on in the evening, but you could be inviting fungus and disease to your lawn since the grass will stay wet most of the night. The best time for watering is at sunup, first thing in the morning.
\n\n\n\nYou can water any day of the week if you’re using a handheld device like a hose. That doesn’t mean you can turn the hose on, lay it down, and let it run. You may also use “gray water,” (recycled bath or kitchen sink water). Areas of newly established landscaping may also be exempt.
\n\n\n\nViolating the watering or fertilization ordinances can cost you. The first offense results in a written warning. A second violation could get you a $50.00 ticket while a third violation could cost you more than $250.00.
\n\n\n\nThe Clean Water Act set forth by the City of Jacksonville also limits the amount of fertilizer that enters into the St. Johns River. Local retailers and property owners are also asked to be mindful of fertilizer treatments that could run off into the water supply. Required ground cover or landscaping that extends at least 6 feet around bodies of water help protect the water supply. Florida-Friendly landscaping, a program from the University of Florida Extension, stresses the use of native plants. Native plants need little water and are much easier to maintain.
\n\n\n\nThe St. Johns River Water Management District supplies North Florida with more than 540 million gallons of water a day. More than half of that is used in our landscapes. By following the watering restrictions in Jacksonville, we’ll keep the taps flowing for years to come.
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care in Jacksonville? Make sure to check our Jacksonville, FL lawn care page.
Tropical weather isn’t all beautiful. Sunny weather may be followed by a tropical storm or a hurricane. While there’s only so much you can do to protect your home, hurricane-resistant landscaping can minimize damage and make cleanup easier. Here are 12 ideas to implement in your yard to help your landscaping weather the storm. In […]
\n","content":"\nTropical weather isn’t all beautiful. Sunny weather may be followed by a tropical storm or a hurricane. While there’s only so much you can do to protect your home, hurricane-resistant landscaping can minimize damage and make cleanup easier. Here are 12 ideas to implement in your yard to help your landscaping weather the storm.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n12 Hurricane-Resistant Landscaping ideas for Jacksonville
\n\n\n\nHurricane season lasts from June 1 to Nov. 30, and during the hurricane season, Floridians don’t want to be caught off-guard. With winds reaching speeds over 157 mph, hurricanes cause a lot of wind damage and often lead to flooding.
\n\n\n\nFor hurricane preparedness, here are some tips to keep your yard safer so you can be ready for the next time a tropical storm strikes Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Daniel Di Palma / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nSeeing all your hard work go down the drain is heartbreaking if you’re a plant lover. The additional salt water from tropical storms can cause plants to wilt, halt growth, or die. Some plants are susceptible to salinity, but others are more salt tolerant and better adapted to coastal areas.
\n\n\n\nNative plants are more likely to survive local weather and are lower maintenance. However, other plants may be able to brave the storm, as well. Here are some salt-tolerant plant recommendations from the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS):
\n\n\n\nGroundcovers and flowers:
\n\n\n\nGrasses:
\n\n\n\nVines:
\n\n\n\nTrees and shrubs:
\n\n\n\nWhat about your lawn? St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass are good turfgrass choices for Jacksonville and can handle more salt than other grass types.
\n\n\n\nCost: Planting a tree costs homeowners between $90 and $3,212. Flower bed planting costs between $861 and $3,100. You can save money by planting them yourself, but research the plant thoroughly before planting, so you set it up for success.
\n\n\n\nTrees are a significant hazard during hurricanes. They could fall on your home, fence, or car, causing costly damage. While no tree is entirely immune to high winds, research from the University of Florida has shown these trees to be most wind-resistant:
\n\n\n\nWant to know which trees have poor wind resistance? Avoid these species:
\n\n\n\nCost: Planting a tree costs homeowners between $90 and $3,212.
\n\n\n\nIs your tree at risk of falling? Besides species, tree health is another factor determining which trees survive hurricanes. Sick, diseased, damaged, rotting, and pest-infested trees aren’t in peak condition to face stormy weather. Look for any changes in your tree’s health, and call a certified arborist to assess whether the tree needs to be treated or removed.
\n\n\n\nEven if your trees are healthy, pruning and reshaping will improve their wind resistance. Train your young trees to have one dominant trunk and well-spaced branches. To prepare for a hurricane, contact an arborist to prune any trees over 15 feet tall and remove branches that could pose a danger to your property.
\n\n\n\nCost: Tree trimming costs between $227 and $708. Want to trim your hedges and bushes as well? Expect to pay between $56 and $85 per hour for hedge trimming and $7 to $24 per bush or $45 to $75 per hour. You can trim small plants yourself, but leave large trees to the pros.
\n\n\n\nArborists may offer advice on tree trimming or removal for free but charge $40 to $550 for in-depth consultations or services performed.
\n\n\n\n![\"Power](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Power-Line.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matthew Paul Argall / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nTrees are much more dangerous near power lines and your house. They could smash through your roof or take out your power. Don’t plant trees or other tall plants too close to your home or power lines, and move or cut down existing trees that pose a danger.
\n\n\n\nCost: Tree transplants cost between $229 and $5,440. Tree removal costs between $323 and $2,089.
\n\n\n\nHardy plants are an excellent first step, but you should also provide extra protection before the storm hits. Wrap trees and large plants with burlap and small plants with a floating row cover. Make sure to secure them to the ground with garden stakes. While these covers may fail in severe hurricanes, they’ll likely reduce some damage in your yard.
\n\n\n\nCost: Depending on the size, burlap costs between $7 and $180 per roll. Floating row covers cost $11 to $240 per cover, with agricultural covers costing even more.
\n\n\n\nMulch controls weeds in your garden, but hurricanes scatter pieces all over your yard. Avoid hard mulch types like gravel. Strong winds can send them flying through the air and possibly through your windows. Here are some soft mulch types that will cause less damage and be easier to clean up:
\n\n\n\nCost: Mulch costs between $45 to $100 per cubic yard, depending on the type. You also can make mulch for free from grass clippings, pine needles, or newspaper.
\n\n\n\nFlooding is a significant source of damage during hurricane season. A seawall is the first line of defense against rising water levels, redirecting floodwaters away from your property. They are beneficial for properties next to the ocean or rivers. Choose from materials like concrete, wood, steel, and vinyl.
\n\n\n\nCost: Seawall construction costs between $215 and $843 per square foot, depending on the material.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chain-link-fence.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nIf those winds are strong enough to knock down trees, they can destroy most fences. Privacy fences often fall because their large surface area takes the brunt of the wind and floodwaters. Concrete and brick fencing may hold up better, but other materials will be more likely to survive if they have gaps to let the elements through. Consider picket, shadowbox, lattice, or louvered designs.
\n\n\n\nChain-link and metal fences are your best bet if you want to see your fence still standing after the storm. They might be dented by flying objects, but that repair will be easier than a splintered wooden fence.
\n\n\n\nCost: Metal fences cost between $21 and $57 per linear foot, depending on the type of metal. Chain-link fences, also known as cyclone or hurricane fences, cost between $12 and $37 per linear foot.
\n\n\n\nThat comfy lounger on your patio may not be so lovely after it’s been thrown around by the wind and flood waters. Your outdoor furniture and decor could easily be damaged or damage other property. Move anything not bolted down to a secure location, such as a shed or garage, so you won’t need to recover or repair them after the storm.
\n\n\n\nCost: Nothing if you already have a shed or garage to store your items in.
\n\n\n\n![\"leaves](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/30120082286_d296f7477f_k-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dan Keck / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nStorm surges during the hurricane can flood your yard. That water won’t leave if it doesn’t have a clear path to nearby storm drains. Leaves and debris can clog the drains, causing flooding for you and your neighbors. Keep your yard clean from debris and avoid placing landscaping features between your yard and the drain if they might prevent water flow.
\n\n\n\nTo avoid standing water in a sloped yard, install a French drain. French drains are ditches filled with gravel with a perforated drain pipe underneath. Rather than pool in your yard or create unwanted rivers, the water will follow the French drain to the municipal storm drain. These installations can redirect water away from your foundation and prevent flooding inside your home.
\n\n\n\nCost: Yard cleanup typically costs between $153 and $374 but can cost as much as $1,059 in extreme cases. French drains cost between $500 and $18,000.
\n\n\n\nLeaving gutters clogged before a hurricane is asking for trouble. To avoid unnecessary flooding, clean your gutters twice a year. It’s best to start with the cleanest slate possible so the leaves don’t pile too high and cause more damage.
\n\n\n\nCost: Gutter cleaning costs between $72 and $424. Costs will be on the higher end for large and multi-story houses.
\n\n\n\n![\"water](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Automatic-Sprinklers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ildar Sagdejev / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAutomatic sprinklers make our lives easier most of the year, but more water is the last thing your lawn needs during a hurricane. Your yard will already be saturated for a long while after the storm, and your plants will need to recover from the excess water. You may also want to turn off your water entirely to avoid damage from burst pipes.
\n\n\n\nCost: None. You will actually save money on your water bill.
\n\n\n\nHurricanes are a risk to homeowners all over Florida, and Jacksonville is no exception. Because Jacksonville is right on the coast, even a brush with a hurricane can cause major flooding in the city. Some damage is inevitable, but preparedness can save money and time as you pick up the pieces.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can make your landscape more resilient in storms, it can’t protect you. Create an emergency evacuation plan to keep you and your family safe.
\n\n\n\nHurricane prediction isn’t a perfect science. Jacksonville residents should expect a bush or direct hit from a hurricane every two or three years, with direct hits landing every 11 to 12 years. Direct hits cause the most damage, but even a brush can cause significant damage.
In Florida, hurricane season falls between June and November, with the peak times in August and October. It’s a good idea to start assessing your hurricane preparedness around this time, so you aren’t scrambling to protect your home.
Yes, and not just from hurricanes. The long rainy season from June to November can cause tributaries and creeks to rise and damage nearby properties. The City of Jacksonville warns that any property in the floodplain will likely be damaged at some point, though other properties are also at risk.
Some hurricane preparations you make in your yard will help with these issues, such as clearing paths to storm drains. However, you’ll likely need to make additional preparations.
You have a lot to check off your hurricane preparedness list to keep your family and property safe. Why not get some help to ease your burden? Local landscaping pros can prep your yard for hurricanes and clean up afterward.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: christina rutz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nJacksonville’s warm climate and proximity to many bodies of water create the perfect environment for pests. These backyard pests can create many issues for homeowners. Here are some of the worst backyard pests in Jacksonville, and more importantly, how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nYay, Jax! In 2019 the city broke into the list of the top U.S. cities …for mosquitoes. Some people tend to get bitten only a few minutes after stepping outside while others aren’t mosquito magnets at all. Either way, it’s essential to keep the mosquito population down around your home. These bloodsuckers can spread disease and cause significant health problems for your family and pets. There’s no doubt they’re among the worst pests in Jacksonville and one of the deadliest in the world.
\n\n\n\nMake sure to rid your lawn and garden from any standing water where mosquitoes can lay eggs. Buy a mosquito zapper and wear bug repellent while outdoors. Guard the family pooch against heartworms spread by infected mosquitoes as well. Use natural mosquito repellent plants around your home. Catmint, marigolds, and citronella have a scent that bugs mosquitoes.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/c2sdWdrobROzG-bFF6MjtV360OrNNqfe4j_m2OocW71AZDXYMWMG4PXszf8dxZlBEwGzc3c_Voz0VC964QSQGMnSNKLIefrBeSPgZL-D-qizb2tt14TstRkT0-0BlixNc54a4zIZ\")
While these flying lovers aren’t harmful to humans, their sheer numbers can wreak havoc in the Jacksonville area. They are also known as the honeymoon fly, but they’re nothing lovable about them. These bugs mate and then remain attached for several days afterward. Lovebugs are commonly found flooding sides of buildings and splattering across the front of cars.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/TfsJW9tGCddH6YzJVE-Fjio2NpwLdYMxJeyVmndOt83zAGmeW_TADhv8cJoJIUTAqSykzVwg2dx5pOpIIj1beQ52nl-set_T3hjEifv3C7XeFZSEijk8rC9SXCFSCdJyM8TVDLdC\")
2019 was a particularly bad year (actually a good year for the bugs, bad for us,) thanks to a lack of rainfall that encouraged eggs production. There isn’t much you can do to prevent or rid your backyard of these swarms of lovebugs other than use screened-in outdoor areas. Cutting down on piles of plant debris in the yard could also help keep these amorous pests away. They especially like feeding on Brazilian pepper.
\n\n\n\nAny wood structures are targets for termites in the Jacksonville area. It doesn’t take long for these small wood eaters to do some costly damage to homes, garages, sheds, and backyard playgrounds. Walk around any wood structures on your property to look for mud tubes and droppings that look like sawdust. Ridding your property of any wood piles or dead trees is one way to prevent termites from entering your area. If you’ve got an infestation, it’s time to call a professional exterminator.
\n\n\n\nThese small gnats are also known as sand fleas in the Jacksonville area. They tend to hang out on the sandy beaches but can also fly around the city. No-see-ums are usually active in the mornings or late afternoons, and their sting is easy to feel. You’ll most likely feel a no-see-um before you lay eyes on it.
\n\n\n\nApplying insect repellent before going outside is one way to prevent these little critters from causing issues. Carbon dioxide traps are also popular to use in backyards.
\n\n\n\nWhile Florida may be a prime target for many bugs, you can prevent some of the worst pests in Jacksonville from making themselves at home in your home. Keep your grass mowed, and remove any yard debris. Most pests are looking for tall grass and woodpiles to breed and nest. You don’t have to use harmful chemicals to control the pest population, but it will take plenty of perseverance and patience.
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care in Jacksonville? Make sure to check our Jacksonville, FL lawn care page.
The subtropical climate of Jacksonville surely calls for a beautiful tropical garden. But wait — don’t purchase imported landscape plants just yet. North Florida has many gorgeous native plants, some only found in this state. You may even find native alternatives to plants you’re considering, such as hibiscus and azaleas. Why native plants? Not only […]
\n","content":"\nThe subtropical climate of Jacksonville surely calls for a beautiful tropical garden. But wait — don’t purchase imported landscape plants just yet. North Florida has many gorgeous native plants, some only found in this state. You may even find native alternatives to plants you’re considering, such as hibiscus and azaleas.
\n\n\n\nWhy native plants? Not only will they be easier to care for, but the local wildlife will thank you for it. These plants are much more likely to survive Jacksonville weather, pests, and diseases. If you’re ready to make your garden part of the local ecosystem, consider the following 14 native plants.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coral-Bean.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Everglades National Park / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYou get a two-for-one deal with coral beans: beautiful flowers and seed pods. The plant grows red tubular flowers in spring, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. By fall, they’ll turn into pea pods with bright red seeds. They may look appetizing, but put away your fork and knife — they’re toxic if ingested.
\n\n\n\nCoral beans are visually appealing in spring and fall but don’t look exciting when not flowering or producing seeds. They’ll play an excellent supporting role in your garden landscape, so pair them with various plants for visual interest year-round.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6a-9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial in Northern Florida
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or light shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Fertile, sandy, and well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The seeds are poisonous – keep away from pets and children
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Pink-Pinxter-Azalea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: EoRdE6 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThough many azaleas come from Asia or are hybrids, some are native to Florida. Pink pinxter azalea is native to the Jacksonville area, though other Florida varieties may also thrive here. This plant’s fragrant white to dark pink flowers are stunning in spring and attract hummingbirds and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nPink pinxter azaleas have decent pest and disease resistance, but watch out for mites, iron deficiency, and mushroom rot. They do best when shielded from harsh winds. This plant is relatively slow-growing and needs little pruning. If you decide to prune, wait until after flowering. Do not allow people or animals to ingest this plant, as it could be deadly.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6b-10a
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Perennial
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Highly toxic if ingested; could be fatal
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Beautyberry.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eric Hunt / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAs the name suggests, the American beautyberry’s fruit is the star of the show. Birds love eating them and have thus spread the seeds all over Florida. Humans can eat these berries in small amounts or make them into jellies and wines. The purple fruit appears around September, but you can enjoy its lavender-pink flowers in spring and summer.
\n\n\n\nThis drought-tolerant plant works well for borders. If you decide to prune it, do so before it flowers for the best results.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-8 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers rich soils but can also grow in poor, sandy soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic for humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Black-Eyed-Susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nLove wildflowers? The yellow, orange, and red colors of the Black-eyed Susan are a bright and cheery choice for gardeners in the Sunshine State. They flower in summer and fall. Use it for your butterfly garden, or pick some for a beautiful bouquet.
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan is easy to grow and tough. It can handle drought and salt, making it ideal for coastal homes in Jacksonville. While they’re great for creating borders or carpets of flowers, they could become a weed since their seeds spread and germinate readily.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Perennial
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Can grow in most soil types
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Not poisonous to humans, but can be a skin irritant or cause allergic reactions if consumed; could be poisonous to grazing animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Beach-Sunflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bob Peterson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe beach sunflower blooms practically year-round. Like other sunflowers, the flower head will turn to face the sun as it moves through the sky. Butterflies like its flowers, and birds like its fruit. Though there are several varieties throughout Florida, you should use the local variety, cucumber dune sunflower, to avoid hybridization with the native plant population.
\n\n\n\nBeach sunflowers are well-suited to hot, dry, salty coastal climates. Don’t overwater this drought-resistant plant, or it may fall victim to sunflower rust. Though beach sunflowers may not survive a freeze, they will reseed and quickly spread again, making an excellent ground cover. Fertilize once or twice a year at most.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8b-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-4 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial, but will be annual if there are freezing temperatures
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Sandy or well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Oakleaf-Hydrangea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: normanack / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe oakleaf hydrangea is aptly named for its leaf shape. The broad, dark leaves grow up to 12 inches long, with the biggest growing in the shade. The leaves may turn red, bronze, or purple in the fall and may stay on the plant into the winter. Cone-shaped flower clusters bloom in the summer months, then turn light pink or purple. In winter, the unusual peeling bark adds visual interest even when the plant is bare.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer shade, oakleaf hydrangeas are perfect for yards with tree cover. They need little water or maintenance, but you should water them during dry spells and prune them periodically to your liking. Leave room for it to grow and send up new shoots, or get a dwarf or compact cultivar. Oakleaf hydrangeas aren’t kid or pet friendly since eating any part is toxic.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9a
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-10 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full shade, but partial is tolerable
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Does best in fertile, well-drained soil but can survive in other conditions
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: All parts are toxic when ingested; keep away from children and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coontie.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Leonora (Ellie) Enking / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe coontie may look like a fern or palm tree, but it’s a cycad. Its glossy, feathery leaves are food for Atala butterfly larvae, a species once thought to be extinct in Florida. While the native people in this region historically created cooking flour from its stems, they are toxic unless properly prepared.
\n\n\n\nCoontie has a high drought tolerance and does well in the cold. Its mild salt tolerance helps it survive in coastal areas like Jacksonville. It does best in well-drained soil but will survive in full sun, partial shade, or full shade. Use coontie as a specimen plant or fill large areas with it for a wild look.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cycad (shrub-sized)
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 10a-9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall, 3-5 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, and full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-draining soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The stem is toxic to ingest unless properly prepared
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chickasaw-Plum.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lm13700 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nIf you plant a chickasaw plum tree, its tiny white flowers will entice you with their smell. They look particularly striking since they bloom before the leaves have returned after winter. Soon the flowers will turn into red fruits that turn yellow as they ripen. You can eat them yourself or watch wild animals enjoy the feast.
\n\n\n\nChickasaw plum trees grow quickly and resist most pests and diseases. Though they’re drought tolerant, they may need a drink during dry spells. One feature you may or may not like is the abundance of tree suckers, which are vertical stems growing near the base. They aren’t harmful to the tree and can benefit wildlife, but some people find them unappealing and messy. Prune them if you’d like.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: Typically 6-12 feet, but can be up to 25 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but can tolerate dappled shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Tolerates a wide variety of soil types but prefers acidic soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Low poison severity from cyanide in leaves, stems, and seeds when ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Southern-Live-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nWant a break from the harsh sun? Once established, a large southern live oak will provide plenty of shade in your yard. When fully grown, they can have a height of up to 60 feet and a spread of 100 feet. They can live for hundreds of years. You may see Spanish moss growing on it, but not to worry — it won’t hurt the tree.
\n\n\n\nLive oaks are best for large yards, so they have ample space to grow. Plan other landscaping accordingly; you don’t want your tree stealing all the sunlight from plants that need it. Pair with shade-tolerant plants to make sure all your green friends are happy. To improve wind resistance, prune your live oak regularly when young.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7b-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 60 feet tall with a spread of 100 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen or evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Low toxicity to humans if young leaves or raw acorns are ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sabal-Palm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nFlorida and palm trees go together like shrimp and grits. Want a local variety? Sabal palms earned the title of state tree in 1953. They’re also called cabbage palms or palmettos because the immature leaves taste like cabbage. The bud, or heart of palm, is also edible. Sabal palms produce tiny white flowers that pollinators love, then small black fruits that make a good snack for wild animals.
\n\n\n\nDespite the many edible parts of this plant, it’s not the best idea to handle the tree too much since the leaves may cause skin irritation. Sabal palms can handle salt spray but aren’t as tolerant of salt near their roots. Watch out for the fatal Lethal Bronzing Disease (LBD). While it’s incurable, preventative treatments could save your tree if others nearby are infected.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Palm
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7b-11b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 40-50 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Sandy soil or well-drained loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Skin irritant
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Tickseed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alabama Extension / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThe name may not sound pretty, but don’t judge a book by its cover (or title, in this case). These daisy-like flowers cover fields, gardens, and roadsides throughout Florida in spring, summer, and sometimes fall. Coreopsis, or tickseed, is Florida’s state wildflower and a type of aster. Though most have yellow petals, some varieties come in other colors, such as the purple Georgia tickseed.
\n\n\n\nThere are several varieties of tickseeds in Florida. Coastal plain tickseed, Leavenworth’s tickseed, Texas tickseed, and Georgia tickseed are all found naturally in Duval County. Tickseed is typically drought tolerant, but it depends on the species. While short-lived, they can stick around for years since they reseed themselves. Taller flowers may need support to stay upright.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Annual to short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained soils that aren’t overly rich; tolerates acidic, slightly alkaline, sandy, loam, and clay soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate to low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Hibiscus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Quartl / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWhile some hibiscus varieties originate in Asia, several are right at home in the Florida landscape. The varieties found naturally in Duval County are comfort root, scarlet rosemallow, swamp rosemallow, and crimson-eyed rosemallow. Though their colorful flowers are short-lived, hibiscus plants produce many flowers throughout the flowering season. Hummingbirds and butterflies will flock to them for nectar.
\n\n\n\nHibiscuses come in shrub and tree forms suitable for hedges. These plants may be a good fit if your yard is too wet for other perennials since they prefer moist soil. Hibiscus are sensitive to the cold weather in North Florida, so they may lose their leaves and die away above ground. However, they can still return from the roots through shoots in spring. Watch out for aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4 to 20 feet, depending on the variety; annual freezes will make the plant generally shorter
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennials
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Any soil that is not too dry; tolerates extended flooding and sandy, loamy, clay, and acidic soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coral-Honeysuckle.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Zeynel Cebeci / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThey may not live under the sea like real coral, but their clusters of long flowers are just as pretty. Coral honeysuckle is also called trumpet honeysuckle because of the flower’s shape. Most coral honeysuckle flowers are red, but some cultivars have pink or yellow flowers. Butterflies and hummingbirds will enjoy the flowers, and songbirds will enjoy the fruit that follows.
\n\n\n\nThis vine is suitable for trellises, fences, hanging baskets, or erosion-preventing ground cover. Coral honeysuckle is low-maintenance, drought-resistant, and pest-resistant but won’t flower as nicely in the shade and may die back in freezing weather. Its fast growth can be aggressive, so carefully direct growth where you want. This local species is an excellent substitute for the invasive Japanese honeysuckle.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 15 feet, but it depends on the supporting structure
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Does best in slightly acidic soils but tolerates most soil types; doesn’t do well in dry sands
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May upset stomach if consumed
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Carolina-Jessamine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Evans / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWant a taste of spring flowers before your other plants bloom? Carolina jessamine flowers in late winter and early spring. The flowers are yellow, fragrant, and trumpet-shaped (thus the nickname “evening trumpet flower”). The “Pride of Augusta” cultivar has double flowers and a longer blooming season. Look but don’t touch — the sap contains a skin irritant, and the whole plant is toxic, sometimes even to honeybees.
\n\n\n\nCarolina jessamine looks great on trellises, fences, and pergolas. It also works as a groundcover in sloped yards. The vine grows quickly but is containable. Carolina jessamine has few disease and insect problems and tolerates frost and drought. It may drop leaves if too dry, but it will bounce back quickly. Don’t overfertilize, as it reduces flowering.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 20 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, rich, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The whole plant contains poisonous toxins, including nectar that may be toxic to honeybees. It also has skin-irritating sap.
\n\n\n\nJacksonville falls in the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9A, with this zone determined by the average minimum winter temperature. While non-native plants may still thrive in these conditions, native plants do even better. Native plants have adapted to everything in the area, from weather to soil salinity.
\n\n\n\nThat said, each yard is slightly different. Get a soil test from your local cooperative extension or soil testing lab to learn about its texture (sand, silt, clay, or loam) and pH, nutrient, and salinity levels. You’ll also need to consider your current landscape. Are there shady trees? A nearby body of water? Ask your neighbors what plants have done well in their yards to understand what to expect.
\n\n\n\nYou could choose plants specifically to attract wildlife, practical plants to provide shade on your patio, or the lowest-maintenance plants possible. Once you know what you want out of your yard, you can narrow down your choices.
\n\n\n\nThe bad news for North Florida residents is that many plants that bloom year-round in Central and South Florida won’t bloom in Jacksonville. You could get lantana, a native of South Florida, for your yard. However, be sure not to choose a non-native version as this species is invasive in the area and toxic to livestock. If you need your floral fix in winter, consider houseplants instead.
The best native plants to adorn your fence are coral honeysuckle and Carolina jessamine. If you’d prefer a non-climbing plant to hide your fence with, hydrangea and hibiscus will add the desired visual interest.
North Florida tends to have very sandy soils. This soil texture is good for plants that need good drainage but won’t work well for plants that prefer clay. The native plants on this list either prefer or tolerate the sandy soils typical in Jacksonville.
Sometimes, the best way to decide which plants to buy is to see them in person. The employees at your local native plant nursery can help guide you through the plant selection process. Here are some local garden centers that carry native plants:
\n\n\n\nWant to buy online? You can purchase plant seeds from the Florida Wildflowers Growers Cooperative.
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, consider planting a new lawn or implementing low-maintenance landscaping. If you’re worried about storms tearing apart all your hard work, focus on hurricane-resistant landscaping to keep your garden and house safe.
You may find your new gardening journey overwhelming. Don’t be afraid to contact local landscaping pros in Jacksonville to handle anything you’re uncomfortable with or don’t have time for.
Main Image Credit: Canna lirio / PublicDomainPictures
\n","title":"14 Best Native Plants for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1789c/Native-plant.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/107df/Native-plant.jpg 320w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/293e9/Native-plant.jpg 500w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/f2cbb/Native-plant.jpg 800w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1789c/Native-plant.jpg 960w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/c26c2/Native-plant.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1dd6e/Native-plant.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/67b76/Native-plant.webp 320w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/8df11/Native-plant.webp 500w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/98a65/Native-plant.webp 800w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1dd6e/Native-plant.webp 960w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/3cc96/Native-plant.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"14 Best Native Plants for Jacksonville, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want easy-to-care-for plants that are good for the local ecosystem? These native plants will thrive in your Jacksonville yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"dca8334b-eef4-5852-bbab-1c382c999382","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/spring-lawn-care-tips-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Regular mowing and watering can mean the difference between a thick, green lawn and one riddled with brown spots and disease. This monthly lawn care guide for Jacksonville will help you get started with the essentials.
\n","content":"\nBoth humans and plants appreciate the beautiful spring weather in Jacksonville. The sunshine draws turfgrass out of its winter dormancy, and it’ll start growing in full force before you know it. Warm-season grasses awaken from their winter slumber in March, picking up speed in April and May as temperatures rise.
\n\n\n\nNow’s the best time to assess your turf’s health. Did it suffer damage in the winter? Do you need to make any changes to its care? Get your lawn care off on the right foot with these 11 lawn care tips for Jacksonville so you can enjoy healthy, beautiful turf all summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you take a break from mowing in winter, it’s easy to let debris accumulate on the lawn. Thoroughly clean up the following, so you have a clean slate to work with:
\n\n\n\nWhen your lawn is clean, you can get a better look at your grass and be better able to assess its health.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Shredded leaves can make great mulch for your lawn. Here’s how to use them:
\n\n\n\nYou also can purchase a mulching mower to make this process more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you begin any spring lawn treatments, you should get a soil test. Soil tests reveal your soil’s pH levels. Most grasses prefer a pH between 5 and 6, though St. Augustinegrass can tolerate up to 7.5. If the soil pH is too high or low, it interferes with nutrient uptake. Florida’s soils tend to be acidic, but coastal properties may have more alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests also may show what nutrients are in your soil, so you don’t over or under-fertilize. However, not all tests cover nutrient analysis. Contact the University of Florida’s Duval County Extension Office or other soil testing lab to see their current offerings.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes your lawn feel a little spongy? It may have accumulated too much thatch. Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant matter on the soil’s surface. A little thatch is fine, but too much thatch (typically more than an inch) can suffocate your lawn and host pests and diseases. Use a thatch rake, dethatcher, or verticutter to remove this layer.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time to dethatch since your lawn has had some time to recover from winter and regain strength. However, you don’t necessarily need to dethatch every year. Most grass types can get by just fine with thatch removal every few years. The exceptions are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass, since they’re both prone to excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how often you should expect to dethatch the common grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | When to Dethatch |
| Bahiagrass | Rarely an issue |
| Bermudagrass | Once a year; best in summer to reduce recovery time |
| Centipedegrass | Dethatch when the thatch layer is more than ¼ inch |
| St. Augustinegrass | Dethatch when the layer exceeds 1 inch; best done in early spring or midsummer |
| Zoysiagrass | Every few years |
![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith the pleasant weather, you’re probably enjoying more fresh air than before. Believe it or not, your lawn wants to breathe some of that air, too. Compact soil makes it more difficult for air, water, and nutrients to reach your turf’s roots. Heavy clay soils are more prone to compaction, but even the sandy soil in North Florida can fall victim to compaction with enough foot traffic or heavy equipment use.
\n\n\n\nTo relieve soil compaction, aerate your lawn. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing your grass to spread out. Spike aeration also creates small holes for water, air, and nutrients but can ultimately cause the soil around the holes to become more compact. You can take advantage of the holes created by aeration to deliver seeds and fertilizer directly into the ground.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time for this invasive procedure because grass can bounce back quickly during its growing season. It’s also good to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. However, you don’t need to aerate every year. To see if you need aeration, push a screwdriver into the soil. If it’s difficult to do, your soil is compact and needs to be relieved.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Spraying-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour turfgrass may be one of many plants growing on your lawn this spring. Jacksonville is home to many troublesome weeds that compete for resources and affect curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nIf you can already see the weeds, then you need post-emergent herbicides. To get ahead of weeds that haven’t yet sprouted, apply pre-emergent herbicides. Always follow the labels to avoid killing your grass and polluting the local ecosystem. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially risky for newly seeded lawns. To minimize herbicide use, avoid excessive moisture and keep your grass dense and healthy to outcompete weeds naturally.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are categorized by type (broadleaf, grassy, sedges, or rushes) and lifecycle (annual, biennial, or perennial).
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have net-like veins on their broad leaves. They easily stand out from turfgrass, ruining the curb appeal of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some broadleaf weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat broadleaf weeds with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Mowing also helps control them, especially for lawns that aren’t well-established yet.
\n\n\n\nThese weeds have hollow, rounded stems. They can look quite similar to your existing grass, but they’re still a threat.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common grassy weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds are best controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. Goosegrass germinates later than other weeds, so you can wait to apply pre-emergent control for three or four weeks into March. Post-emergent herbicides for grassy weeds are few and far between because they often kill turfgrass, too.
\n\n\n\nRushes have solid round stems, and sedges have solid triangular stems. These weeds prefer moist soils, so avoid overwatering your lawn. Some sedges also like compacted soil because of the poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nSome sedges and rushes in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nCultural control is a good first step for sedges and rushes. Aerate to improve drainage and avoid overwatering. You may need repeated herbicide applications to rid yourself of nutsedges.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live and die in less than a year. There are two types: summer annuals and winter annuals. Winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass will be at the end of their lifecycle, but summer annuals are just getting started.
\n\n\n\nSummer annual weeds in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nThe winter annuals begin life in fall and die off by the end of spring, so you can decide whether to treat them now with post-emergent control or wait until they die on their own. You can get ahead of summer annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicide on the first of March or before temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for four to five days in a row.
\n\n\n\nCultural control is also effective for many annual weeds. Maintain a proper mowing, watering, and aeration schedule to discourage annual weeds.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a longer growing season of two years. During the first year, they will only show vegetative growth. By the second year, they will flower, then die after producing and spreading their seeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some Florida biennials:
\n\n\n\nBiennials are difficult to control in spring if they are seeding. If you remove or treat them with herbicides during their first year, you can halt their spread.
\n\n\n\nUnlike annuals and biennials, perennials can stick around for three or more years if not treated.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials you could find in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause perennials reseed and regrow each year, post-emergent herbicides are most effective. It is easier to control perennials in the fall when they aren’t growing as aggressively.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven healthy grass can fall victim to hungry pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in spring:
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: These scarab beetle larvae eat the roots of all grass types and are found underground. You can check to see if you have them by pulling back a one-square-foot flap of turf. If it lifts easily, it’s probably because the grubs have eaten the roots. Dead turf caused by these pests usually isn’t visible until late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: Appearing in spring and fall, these caterpillars create brown damaged spots in lawns. They particularly like bermudagrass. You can control fall armyworms with pesticides, but they may inadvertently kill their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs: St. Augustinegrass is particularly vulnerable to chinch bugs. They create yellow and brown damage patches that often appear in drought-stressed parts of your lawn. Spring pesticide applications, dethatching, and reducing fertilizer use can help prevent these pests.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs: Check your zoysia and bermudagrass for yellow coloring and easy-to-pull-up grass. This damage from hunting billbugs may be misdiagnosed as drought or disease. Keep your grass well-watered to withstand infestation, and use pesticides when there are more than ten billbugs per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinter sometimes leaves an unpleasant surprise in your lawn: disease. Lawn diseases are usually caused by fungi and cause discoloration and death. If untreated, you could spread the disease with your lawn mower. You’ll need to identify the disease before you can begin treatment. Let’s review some common lawn diseases homeowners encounter in spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease creates discolored turfgrass patches around 1 foot to several feet in diameter. Dark rot infects the lowest part of the leaf, though not the roots. It is especially problematic for St. Augustine and zoysiagrass lawns but can affect all grass types grown in Jacksonville. Look for large patch throughout spring when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nFungicides like azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, fludioxonil, flutolanil, and iprodione will stop the spread. However, it’s better to prevent it in the first place with proper lawn maintenance practices. Water in the morning to avoid leaving the grass excessively wet. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizer instead of quick-release, so you don’t fuel the fungus.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot slows down growth and makes lawns look thinner. Look for small, oval-shaped olive green or brown spots with dark borders. These spots will produce spores when humidity is high. This fungal disease most often affects St. Augustinegrass but also afflicts centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot doesn’t always cause serious problems. However, you can apply fungicides and plant-available silicon before sprigging to suppress gray leaf spot. Avoid compacted soil, overwatering, and quick-release nitrogen. The herbicide atrazine can put St. Augustinegrass at risk if it’s applied when temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease affects St. Augustinegrass lawns in late spring and early summer when rainfall is frequent. The grass is more likely to fall victim if soil fertility is low and light is scarce. Look for dark brown leaf spots and oblong lesions similar to those caused by gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Cercospora leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nUse slow-release nitrogen and potassium fertilizer to prevent Cercospora leaf spot. If the grass is already infected, apply fertilizer with quick-release nitrogen and potassium with a ratio of one to one. Water early in the morning (before 8 a.m.) to avoid long wet periods, and only when the grass shows signs of dehydration. Consider the Bitterblue cultivar for a more resistant St. Augustinegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe silver dollar size of the round, straw-colored patches give this disease its name, though the patches can grow much larger. Look for small, pale lesions on the grass blades. Turfgrass may become thin and more susceptible to weeds. Dollar spot is common in spring and fall and does best when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nKeep grass hydrated, as low soil moisture makes dollar spot worse. Provide sufficient nitrogen through fertilizer to improve resistance — too little makes the grass vulnerable, but too much can promote dollar spot and other diseases. Keep on top of other cultural practices like dethatching and aeration to keep grass healthy enough to fight this disease. Use fungicides if cultural control doesn’t help.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough typically harmless, slime molds coat grass blades with unappealing spores and growths. Some may look like soot while others look like blobs. Slime molds appear in spring when the weather is warm and wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime mold:
\n\n\n\nSmile mold doesn’t technically require control. You can let it disappear naturally and your grass will be fine since the mold only sits on the surface. However, you can remove it with mowing or a strong stream of water.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is thinner than you’d like, it may benefit from overseeding. You can evenly spread the seeds over the whole lawn or target specific areas that are particularly thin. If your lawn has bare patches, consider sprigs, plugs, or sod to fill the area instead.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting more grass, make sure you’ve addressed any underlying issues. If overirrigation, poor soil quality, disease, pest infestation, or other improper care is the root cause of your thin grass, new grass won’t solve the problem. Proper lawn maintenance may make grass grow denser naturally, especially as the peak growing season approaches.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to renovate or repair your lawn, here are the best times to establish each grass type.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting (in Fahrenheit) | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Jacksonville |
| Bahiagrass | 77 – 86 | March – June |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | March – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | April – July |
| St. Augustinegrass* | 65 – 80 | March – May |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | April – July |
*St. Augustine can’t be established with seeds, so the above information applies to sod, plugs, and sprigs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass can best utilize nutrients when they’re actively growing. Use the results of your soil test to guide your purchases in the fertilizer aisle. The best fertilizers for Jacksonville lawns have slow-release nitrogen and little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nFlorida soils tend to be high in phosphorus but keep an eye out for phosphorus deficiency just in case. Symptoms include reduced growth and dark green shoots that turn purple.
\n\n\n\nThe middle of April is the best time to fertilize your lawn. If you fertilize too soon or too much, it can lead to fertilizer runoff and harmful algal blooms in local waterways like the St. John’s River. You also should avoid fertilizing when there’s a hurricane, tropical storm, or flooding warning, so those nutrients don’t go down the drain.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour winter break from mowing was nice, but now you’ll need to dust off the mower and get to work. First, take care of any mower maintenance:
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, check the condition of your weed eater.
\n\n\n\nOnce your tools are ready, measure your grass. You don’t want to cut your grass too short, or it could affect its health. Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade at once. Doing so will damage the grass and hinder its growth. Here are the ideal mowing heights for common Jacksonville grass types:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Your grass won’t reach its peak growth rate until summer, so you only need to mow once or twice a week during spring. Use its current height as your guide, and mow more frequently when you notice its growth rate increasing.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverwatering your lawn can have worse consequences than underwatering, as it encourages diseases and weeds. The University of Florida recommends homeowners irrigate on an as-needed basis to avoid overwatering and wastage. Only irrigate only when you see signs of dehydration, such as:
\n\n\n\nYou will likely need to water your lawn once or twice a week in spring, depending on rainfall. The spring showers in Jacksonville will likely save you time and lower your water bill.
\n\n\n\nMost Jacksonville lawns require ½ to ¾ inch of water at a time. Here are specific recommendations based on grass type:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Amount of Water per Application (in Inches) |
| Bahiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Bermudagrass | ¾ – 1 |
| Centipedegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| St. Augustinegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Zoysiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
The best grass types for Jacksonville are:
• Bahiagrass
• Bermudagrass
• Centipedegrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
All these grasses are warm-season grasses, which means they grow best when temperatures are warm. The bulk of your lawn care will be in summer, but you still need to care for your lawn in spring and fall to prepare it for the changing seasons.
If your current grass type isn’t working, you can try overseeding it with another to see how it fares. If your current grass type is doing well, it’s probably best to stick with what you’ve got.
Some people overseed their lawns in fall with cool-season species like perennial ryegrass to extend its green color during winter.
For the first mow of the season, consider cutting your grass a bit shorter to eliminate old grass and debris. However, you shouldn’t cut off too much, or you could damage the grass. Make sure always to keep the grass height within the recommended guidelines. Feel free to raise your mowing height gradually as the season progresses.
Weed and feed products are not as effective as using each product individually. Pre-emergent herbicides are best applied around March 1 in North Florida, while fertilizer should wait until around April 15.
Do you want to spend your spring on yard work? This season is the perfect time to visit the beach before the summer tourists arrive. Leave lawn care to a Jacksonville professional, and they’ll ensure your lawn is prepped for its peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.9077901430842608,"src":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/107df/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/293e9/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/f2cbb/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/c26c2/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/67b76/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/8df11/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/98a65/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/3cc96/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spring is when your North Florida lawn picks up speed. Set your Jacksonville lawn up for success with these spring lawn care tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"cb5de3f7-9238-5026-81b4-1d17a406324e","slug":"best-grass-types-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/best-grass-types-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"March 20th, 2023","excerpt":"With the beautiful subtropical climate in Jacksonville, who wouldn’t want a lush lawn to match the greenery? However, you should choose a species that can handle the warm weather, rain or shine. These warm-season grass types are well-suited for the city. Let’s review the pros and cons of each species so you can plant the […]
\n","content":"\nWith the beautiful subtropical climate in Jacksonville, who wouldn’t want a lush lawn to match the greenery? However, you should choose a species that can handle the warm weather, rain or shine. These warm-season grass types are well-suited for the city. Let’s review the pros and cons of each species so you can plant the best lawn for your property.
\n\n\n\nAlmost every lawn you see in Florida is made up of warm-season grass. Warm-season grasses do best in the southern half of the United States, while cool-season grasses do best in the northern states. Warm-season grasses thrive in spring and summer but turn brown and dormant in the winter. Of course, Jacksonville has mild winters, so your lawn will stay green longer.
\n\n\n\nThough many species of warm-season grasses exist, these five are the best-suited for Jacksonville lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysia-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWhile Zoysiagrass originated in Asia, it’s well-adapted to warm, humid weather like that in Jacksonville. This light- to medium-green grass is heat and drought tolerant with low maintenance needs. However, it can still go dormant or die in extreme heat. Zoysiagrass has better cold tolerance than most warm-season grasses, which makes it a good fit for North Florida.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass can tolerate some shade but grows best in full sun. Zoysiagrass’ density helps it resist wear, diseases, weeds, and pests. It also tolerates herbicides more than other grass types. However, it’s slow to establish. Sod works better for establishment than plugs or seeds, even though it’s the more expensive option.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and low to moderate fertilizer needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches. Cut with a sharp blade and mow taller if it’s in partial shade
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good disease tolerance and not prone to insect infestation
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Depends on the cultivar, but generally, well-draining soils work best
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Zoysiagrass has a good salt tolerance, which makes it ideal for coastal Jacksonville. Because of its dense growth pattern, zoysiagrass is popularly sold as sod.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bermuda-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThis fine- to medium-textured grass is native to tropical and subtropical climates. Bermudagrass can stay bright green year-round with sufficient irrigation or rainfall but will turn brown with the year’s first frost. It thrives in direct sunlight and has a good humidity and salt tolerance. Its deep root system makes it drought-tolerant, though it may go dormant during extended drought.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is suitable for lawns with lots of foot traffic, such as sports fields and play areas. Why? Its fast growth helps it heal quickly from damage. However, this aggressive growth can make it difficult to contain. Bermudagrass requires frequent mowing and fertilization to keep up with its growth pattern.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Bermudagrass must be frequently mowed to deal with its rapid growth. It also develops thatch easily. Bermudagrass may require monthly fertilization during its peak growing season of late spring.
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermudagrass spreads aggressively, so you must watch out for it spreading into garden beds and neighbors’ yards. It has good salt and humidity tolerance. Establish with seeds, sod, sprigs, or plugs.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/bahia-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis Brazilian grass is low-maintenance, with little water or fertilizer needed. Its extensive root system allows it to survive in drought and sandy, acidic, and infertile soils. However, it may go dormant during extended drought. It also doesn’t do well in salty or alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass isn’t as thick as other grasses and needs full sun to thrive. It’s best for lawns without too much foot traffic. It will take a while to establish with seeds, but you can also install sod. Though it has low fertilizer needs, it is susceptible to iron deficiency.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high. Mow every seven to 14 days. Ensure the blade is sharp so it can cut through the thick leaves and seed head stems.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low with moderate insect tolerance
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils and does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is best grown from seeds or sod. Plugging and sprigging are possible but leave the lawn susceptible to weeds. Overwatered bahiagrass is weaker and more susceptible to weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St.-Augustinegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Yercaud-elango / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nNative to the Gulf of Mexico coastline, St. Augustinegrass is one of Florida’s most common turf grasses. It has a coarse texture and blue-green color. Most cultivars have higher shade tolerance than other warm-season grasses. While it grows well in cool and humid coastal climates, it doesn’t do particularly well in drought and turns brown in winter.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass grows quickly, which helps it crowd out weeds. However, it isn’t the densest grass and may not do well with heavy traffic. St. Augustinegrass is vulnerable to chinch bugs and fungal diseases, though some cultivars resist chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate, with one of the highest shade tolerances of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing and fertilizing frequency
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 3-4 inches for standard varieties and 2.5-3 inches for dwarf varieties; mow tall in shade
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high. St. Augustinegrass is vulnerable to gray leaf spot, large patch, take-all rot, and chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows best in moderately fertile and moist soils with good drainage. It doesn’t tolerate drought or soil compaction.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It will do well in moist soils and mild winters but turn brown during cold winters. St. Augustinegrass has a good salt tolerance. Plant with plugs, sprigs, or sod.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nOriginating in Asia, centipedegrass is well-adapted for Central and North Florida. It’s slow-growing but requires less fertilization and mowing than other grass types in the area. Centipedegrass does well in sandy, acidic soils, making it a good choice for the generally acidic soil in Florida. However, coastal properties may have alkaline soils, so be sure to get a soil test.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass naturally has a medium texture and light green color. Overfertilization could cause centipedegrass decline and dead patches that are difficult to repair. Centipedegrass doesn’t have a high tolerance for salt, traffic, drought, or cold. It is also sensitive to many types of herbicides.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate, but it needs at least six hours of full sun daily
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency and fertilization needs; overfertilization causes heavy thatch and centipedegrass decline
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low. Good resistance to diseases and insects. However, centipedegrass is susceptible to nematodes
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Can grow in acidic, sandy, and infertile soils. It needs moderately good drainage and doesn’t do well in heavy clay soils.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Centipedegrass is slow-growing and doesn’t have a high cold or salt tolerance. Establish with seed, sod, sprigs, or plugs.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass and Zoysiagrass have the best foot traffic tolerance. If you also need durability in the face of drought and disease, Zoysiagrass is well-equipped to face these problems.
Centipedegrass is the easiest to maintain because of its low mowing and fertilization needs. If you need something with a higher traffic tolerance, consider Zoysiagrass.
Jacksonville gets a fair amount of rain, but droughts and dry spells aren’t unheard of. Because of that, it’s best to water on an as-needed basis. When you see folding or wilting leaves, color changes, or visible footprints, give your lawn ½ to ¾ inch of water. Make sure you follow local watering restrictions.
Choosing suitable grass is only the first step. You must plant and properly maintain your lawn to get the desired results. And what about the rest of your yard? Low-maintenance landscaping with native plants will make maintenance easier and allow you to enjoy the beautiful Jacksonville weather surrounded by equally beautiful greenery.
If you need help with your lawn or other yardwork, contact a Jacksonville lawn care professional.
Main Image Credit: indigolotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"5 Best Grass Types for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/1789c/grassy-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/107df/grassy-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/293e9/grassy-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/f2cbb/grassy-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/1789c/grassy-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/c26c2/grassy-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/1dd6e/grassy-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/67b76/grassy-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/8df11/grassy-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/98a65/grassy-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/1dd6e/grassy-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/20416ab858f0f023fbf3883df4651762/3cc96/grassy-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Best Grass Types for Jacksonville, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Need to plant a new lawn in your Jacksonville yard? These warm-season grasses are well-suited for the subtropical climate."}}},{"node":{"id":"71f6e831-21fb-5c9a-923c-44553c6f7346","slug":"worst-lawn-weeds-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/worst-lawn-weeds-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Finding any weed in your Jacksonville lawn can be frustrating, but some are easy to control with common lawn sprays. But, there are a few weeds that require a bit more work.
\n","content":"\nPicture this: You’ve gone outside to enjoy a sunny Jacksonville day when you notice something odd on your lawn. It sure doesn’t look like the rest of your grass, and upon closer inspection, you may notice dying turf near it. You’ve stumbled upon a weed, but what should you do about it?
\n\n\n\nThe best way to deal with these leafy intruders is to identify them so you can create an appropriate game plan. Let’s learn about some of the worst Jacksonville weeds so you can grab the right tools and get your lawn back to normal.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWeeds compete for the water, nutrients, and sun your turfgrass needs. Left unaddressed, they can spread over your lawn, garden, and neighboring properties.
\n\n\n\nBesides the competition for resources, weeds are usually a sign of something wrong. Overwatering is one of the most common problems that encourage weed growth. However, it also may be that your turf isn’t getting the nutrients it needs or is mowed too low to reach a healthy density.
\n\n\n\nYou may feel torn about what weed control method to try first. When choosing between manual and chemical control, you’ll need to consider time, effectiveness, and environmental concerns.
\n\n\n\nRemoving weeds by hand is the most eco-friendly method. However, it can take a lot of time, especially if you have more than a few weeds. You must pull up all plant parts to effectively remove weeds by hand. Many weeds can grow back from roots or tubers left in the ground.
\n\n\n\nHere are some tips to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\nHerbicides are specially-formulated products designed to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides target specific plants, such as grassy or broadleaf weeds. On the other hand, non-selective herbicides kill plants more indiscriminately.
\n\n\n\nAlways read herbicide labels carefully to avoid hurting you, your lawn, or your pets.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis weed can be tricky to spot, but you’ll see it everywhere once you recognize it. It resembles turfgrass but is often a lighter green with broader leaves. Crabgrass gravitates toward bare patches in your lawn. It germinates in spring and dies in fall, leaving brown patches and making your lawn’s color uneven.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass can show up on any lawn. The best way to keep it at bay is to choose an appropriate grass type for Jacksonville. Keep your lawn thick and healthy with proper maintenance, so there are no bare spots for crabgrass to invade. If prevention doesn’t work, apply pre-emergent herbicides in early March before temperatures are consistently above 65 to 70 degrees to avoid harming your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers dry soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollarweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ranjith-chemmad / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA rose by any other name would smell just as sweet, but this weed is just as annoying whether it’s called dollarweed or pennywort. The coin-themed names come from the size and round shape of the leaves. Dollarweed is low to the ground and spreads with seeds, rhizomes, and the occasional tuber. Its small white flowers can bloom year-round.
\n\n\n\nDollarweed can thrive in many soil types, with or without sun, but prefers moist soil. To discourage this weed, avoid overwatering your lawn and improve drainage. Once you spot them, pull them out by hand or use selective or non-selective herbicides. Ensure you pull out all the white rhizomes, or it might make a comeback.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates sandy, loam, or clay soils with acidic to neutral pH
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling, pre-emergent herbicides, or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"honeybee](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dandelion.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDandelions are some of the most iconic weeds. They’re easy to spot once they have their signature yellow flowers or fluffy white seedheads. Your inner child may want to blow those seeds away and make a wish, but resist the temptation — you’d only be spreading them around your yard and neighborhood. These plants are best dealt with before they produce seeds.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent dandelions is to keep your turf dense and healthy, so there’s no room for them. Hand pulling isn’t a very effective removal method because it has deep roots, but it may be feasible in small yards.
\n\n\n\nApply pre-emergent herbicides before dandelions germinate when soil temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Spot treat with broadleaf herbicides but avoid triclopyr because it can harm the warm-season turfgrasses in Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; dandelions are edible unless you have a latex allergy
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Broadleaf herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Goosegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso called wiregrass or crowfootgrass, goosegrass gets its name from finger-like spikes that pop out from the same spot when it flowers. Before it reaches that point, it will be low-growing in matted, grass-like clumps with a white leaf sheath at the base. Because of its growth pattern, it survives low mowing remarkably well.
\n\n\n\nGoosegrass grows so aggressively in thin lawns it might give you goosebumps. Its favorite soils are compact and wet, so aeration may help make your yard less welcoming. Need to break out the herbicides? You can use pre- or post-emergent herbicides with ingredients like dithiopyr, oryzalin, pendimethalin, or prodiamine.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers compact, wet soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre- or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chamberbitter.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Prenn / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant will leave you bitter if it takes over your Jacksonville lawn. Chamberbitter has small, round leaves on long stems with bursting pods that launch seeds everywhere. It looks similar to the powderpuff mimosa, a native groundcover in Florida. Two kinds are found in the Sunshine State – long-stalked chamberbitter (Phyllanthus tenellus) and the smaller gripeweed (Phyllanthus urinaria).
\n\n\n\nGripeweed loves moist, overwatered soils and can survive even when mowed 2 inches high. This weed germinates from early summer to early fall. You can pull out these weeds by hand, but don’t shake the roots before tossing them in the trash — you could accidentally spread their seeds.
\n\n\n\nYoung chamberbitter can be controlled by pre- or post-emergent herbicide, but older, woody specimens may need two or three applications to die back. Apply pre-emergent applications in April to get ahead of germination and seed spreading. Be cautious applying post-emergent herbicides to centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, since they also may be harmed.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers warm soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides work best, but you also can use post-emergent or hand-pulling
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sedges.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Tann / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSedges may look like grass, but you can identify these weeds by the angular shape of their stems. Yellow nutsedge (Cyperus escuelentus) and purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus) can be identified by their small flowers when in bloom. Summer is the season they’re at their peak, but they can grow year-round in temperate Florida.
\n\n\n\nSedges attack lawns without well-established root systems. Avoid overwatering and excessive foot traffic to address the root problem, then try removal. Nutsedges spread with tubers on their roots, making them difficult to remove by hand. Check periodically to see if they grow back. You may need to repeatedly treat this weed with herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10B for yellow nutsedge and 3A-10B for purple nutsedge
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most types, but prefers moist soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling and herbicides
\n\n\n\nDandelion weeders are a popular tool for weed removal in lawns and gardens. You also can use garden hoes.
While you can kill individual weeds, the war with weeds will never end. A gust of wind or an animal passing through could bring new weed seeds with them. However, preventative methods like pre-emergent herbicides and proper lawn maintenance give you the best chance of avoiding sprouted, visible weeds.
It depends on what your lawn goals are. If you want a picturesque lawn, no. Weeds will always compete with your grass and create an inconsistent appearance, if not patches and brown spots.
However, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. A weed is only a weed if it’s unwanted or threatens something desirable. Several weeds are beneficial to Florida’s ecosystem. Thus, some homeowners choose to have a wild, less manicured lawn to be eco-friendly.
If this is the route you want to go, research your options thoroughly. Simply letting your lawn grow unattended isn’t necessarily going to create a natural utopia. You will likely need to actively cultivate some native plants and eliminate any invasive species that try to return. Your yard will become lower-maintenance once fully established.
You’ll need a vigilant eye and a dedicated lawn care regime to keep your lawn weed-free. If you’d rather not give up your weekend outing to Riverside Park, consider hiring a Jacksonville lawn care professional to do the dirty work. A pro can identify weeds quickly and has the best products on the market to eliminate them for good.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Pixabay
\n","title":"6 Worst Lawn Weeds in Jacksonville (and How to Get Rid of Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1789c/Lawn-weed.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/107df/Lawn-weed.jpg 320w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/293e9/Lawn-weed.jpg 500w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/f2cbb/Lawn-weed.jpg 800w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1789c/Lawn-weed.jpg 960w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/c26c2/Lawn-weed.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1dd6e/Lawn-weed.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/67b76/Lawn-weed.webp 320w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/8df11/Lawn-weed.webp 500w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/98a65/Lawn-weed.webp 800w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1dd6e/Lawn-weed.webp 960w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/3cc96/Lawn-weed.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Worst Lawn Weeds in Jacksonville (and How to Get Rid of Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Your lawn shouldn’t have to compete with leafy intruders. Learn to identify and rid your turf of the worst weeds in Jacksonville."}}},{"node":{"id":"c18abcd2-b362-5c6e-a2e6-f72f7d0d0c9a","slug":"fall-lawn-care-checklist-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/fall-lawn-care-checklist-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 13th, 2023","excerpt":"The cooler weather in the fall is a relief for many Jacksonville residents. Goodbye, high AC bills — hello, pumpkin-flavored everything! You may be able to navigate Conner’s A-Maize-ing Acres like a pro but feel lost when it comes to lawn care. Florida’s warm-season lawns slow their growth in fall. When winter rolls around, they […]
\n","content":"\nThe cooler weather in the fall is a relief for many Jacksonville residents. Goodbye, high AC bills — hello, pumpkin-flavored everything! You may be able to navigate Conner’s A-Maize-ing Acres like a pro but feel lost when it comes to lawn care.
\n\n\n\nFlorida’s warm-season lawns slow their growth in fall. When winter rolls around, they could stay green or turn brown and dormant — both are normal for North Florida. Though your yard work won’t be as sweaty this time of year, setting your lawn up for success before winter is still essential. Pull out your calendar and follow this fall lawn care checklist for Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nYou may be tempted to put away your lawn care tools and leave your turf alone until the next growing season. However, that choice could make your spring lawn care much more challenging. Here’s how your lawn benefits from fall lawn care:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJacksonville’s many deciduous plants drop their leaves as the weather cools in the fall. While those leaves are pretty, too many could smother your lawn. There are a few ways you could deal with them:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDirt may seem simple on the surface, but it’s anything but that. Soil contains most of the nutrients your grass needs. If you understand what’s already in your soil, you can choose the appropriate fertilizer and soil amendments to help your lawn thrive.
\n\n\n\nOne thing soil tests cover is pH. Soil that is too acidic or alkaline isn’t a friendly environment for your turf and could interfere with proper nutrient absorption. Acidity and alkalinity are measured on a pH scale of 1 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral — anything above that number is alkaline, and anything below is acidic.
\n\n\n\nFlorida’s average soil pH is 6.1, meaning it’s slightly acidic. However, your soil pH could be higher if you live close to the ocean because shell materials are alkaline. Building materials can also make the soil more alkaline.
\n\n\n\nHere are the pH preferences for the common Jacksonville turfgrasses:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Preferred pH Range |
| Bahiagrass | 5.5-6.5 |
| Bermudagrass | 6-6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5-6 |
| St. Augustinegrass | 6-7.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6-6.5 |
To find out soil pH and nutrient levels, get a soil test from the Duval County Extension Office or another soil testing lab. Use their recommendations when purchasing fertilizer so you don’t oversaturate the soil with nutrients your grass doesn’t need. If your soil pH is too unbalanced, they may recommend soil amendments (lime for acidic soils and sulfur for alkaline soils).
\n\n\n\nSoil tests can take a few weeks to process, so plan accordingly if you want to know your results before fall fertilization. You don’t need to soil test every year, but it can be helpful if:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gloves,](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ruth Hartnup from Vancouver, Canada / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHave you been keeping track of the weed population in your yard? Weeds compete for the same water, nutrients, and sun as your turfgrass. They also can make your lawn look uneven and lower curb appeal. A healthy, thick lawn can outcompete weeds, but sometimes you must intervene.
\n\n\n\nThere are three ways to deal with Jacksonville weeds:
\n\n\n\nManual control: With some gloves and trusty tools, you can pull out weeds by hand. This method is environmentally friendly and won’t harm newly planted grass. However, you need to remove the entire weed. If you leave any roots, tubers, or seeds, the weeds may come back.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides: Once you see the weeds, you can spray them with post-emergent herbicides to kill them. Always follow label directions carefully to keep your other plants safe and ensure the herbicide is compatible with your grass type.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides: This product prevents weeds from germinating. Use pre-emergent herbicides to get ahead of annual weeds so they’ll never have a chance to deface your lawn. However, they can also kill young grass, so don’t use them if you plan to overseed your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWant to know what weeds to expect in your Jacksonville lawn? Let’s break them down based on lifecycle and learn the best treatment methods.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year, though they’ll likely leave enough seeds to spawn another generation next year. Summer annual weeds begin their lifecycle in spring, flourish in summer, and die off in fall. You may find some stragglers in the fall that you can treat with post-emergent herbicides or let them die naturally.
\n\n\n\nSummer annuals in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nSimilarly to their summer counterparts, winter annuals have a three-season lifecycle. They germinate in the fall, do well in winter, and die off by the spring.
\n\n\n\nYou still have time to prevent these weeds if you apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early October. Wait for nighttime temperatures to dip to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for several nights in a row, then apply one or two times according to package instructions.
\n\n\n\nHere are some winter annuals you may find in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nWith a two-year lifespan, biennials can be more challenging to get rid of than short-lived annuals. They won’t flower in the first year, but they’re ready to bloom and spread seeds by the second year. Though they die soon after spreading seeds, you’ll have to deal with their offspring for the next two years. Treat them with herbicides before they flower, if possible.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of biennials in Florida:
\n\n\n\nPerennials are the longest-lasting weeds of all, with a lifespan of three or more years. If you don’t get rid of them, they’ll make themselves at home and reseed themselves year after year. Treat them with post-emergent herbicides in the fall before they hunker down for the winter.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials to look for in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\n![\"Fall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Fall-Armyworm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: uacescomm / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour lawn needs to be in good shape while it takes a break from growing, and the last thing it needs is to be munched on by pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in the fall:
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: These green or brown caterpillars with dark heads eat all types of turfgrass. Fall armyworms are especially problematic in new grass that’s been heavily fertilized in late summer. You may notice the adult moths fluttering around the area. Treat with pesticides, though remember these products may harm their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nSod webworms: Adult tropical sod webworms peak in October and November. Their larvae feed on all types of warm-season grass leaves. Though this pest may leave during North Florida’s colder winters, the damage it creates in fall can leave your lawn in bad shape for the season. Keep thatch levels low to eliminate hiding spots and treat affected areas with insecticides.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: Yellow, easy-to-pull-up grass is a sign something is eating your turf’s roots, and the culprit may be white grubs. These beetle larvae target all kinds of turfgrass. Damage is easiest to spot in late summer and early fall. Apply treatment before they retreat underground later in the fall.
\n\n\n\nContact the University of Florida’s Insect ID Lab for assistance if you find an insect and can’t identify it.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollar](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollar-Spot.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA slow-growing lawn may be less able to fight sickness, so treating diseases before they get out of hand is vital. Here are some diseases to watch for in the fall:
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nAlso known as brown patch, this fungal disease creates round, discolored sections on turfgrass. It often affects Zoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass, but all warm-season grasses can fall victim. Watch for it when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit from November through May.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nAvoid overwatering and excessive nitrogen applications to discourage large patch. If necessary, treat with fungicides. Turfgrass can best recover when it’s actively growing in spring or summer.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nSmall, beige or white lesions on the grass will eventually cause straw-colored patches the size of a silver dollar or larger on your lawn. Dollar spot can affect any warm-season grass, especially lawns with dry soil and nitrogen deficiency.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nMaintain proper cultural practices like watering, mowing, fertilizing, dethatching, and aerating. Don’t mow the grass too low — your grass could become more vulnerable to dollar spot. Apply nitrogen fertilizer lightly and frequently to build resistance without overfertilizing. Use chemical control if cultural control is unsuccessful.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is the only warm-season grass that suffers from gray leaf spot. It slows growth and thins out lawns. Though this disease thrives most in rainy spring and summer, it extends into September since temperatures are between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Look for light spots with dark brown borders on your grass’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nMinimize stress and avoid over-watering to prevent the moist environment that this disease loves. Excessive nitrogen also can encourage gray leaf spot. Be careful when applying the herbicide atrazine, as it can worsen the disease. Fungicides are best applied preventatively, so consider them for next spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough this disease can strike any time of year, it’s most common during the mild, wet seasons of fall and winter. Helminthosporium leaf spot starts as brown or purple pin-sized spots and develops into lesions with pale centers. Infected leaves may turn purple or reddish brown before withering to a light tan shade. It can affect all warm-season grass types but is worst on bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Helminthosporium leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nAvoid excessive nitrogen applications by following soil test recommendations. A ratio of 1:2 for nitrogen and potassium is best. You also can apply slow-release or quick-release potassium to boost your grass’ resistance. Raise mowing height to help grass fight this disease. Several fungicide options are available if needed.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nPythium root rot causes discolored and thinning grass. Though it’s easiest to observe symptoms on the leaves, the root of the problem is underground and harder to see. Roots will be thin and discolored. All warm-season grasses can be affected by pythium root rot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat pythium root rot:
\n\n\n\nImprove drainage and avoid overwatering. To deal with the excess moisture from rainfall, mow high and avoid removing more than one-third of the grass blade at once so you don’t stress your turf. Balance nitrogen and potassium applications, with extra potassium in early fall for lawns commonly affected by pythium root rot. Apply fungicides if necessary.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe slow growth and cool weather in late fall to early spring encourage this disease, while warm weather drives it away. Wet leaves trigger the infection, which causes yellow dots that turn into orange pustules that release spores when touched. Look for rust in St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and any lawn you overseed with perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat rust:
\n\n\n\nRust more severely affects grass with nutrient deficiencies or in shady areas. Follow soil test results to see what your grass needs, and apply a slow-release fertilizer. Keep the grass in shady areas as dry as possible. Use fungicides if cultural control isn’t sufficient.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough it’s sometimes called Bermudagrass decline, take-all root rot affects all warm-season grasses. It is caused by stressed turfgrass and excessive rainfall and prevents grass from adequately absorbing water and nutrients. You may notice some leaf discoloration, but the black, rotten roots are the best way to identify the disease.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat take-all root rot:
\n\n\n\nAlleviate stress and maintain proper mowing habits. An equal balance of slow-release nitrogen and potassium will help grass resist the disease. Micronutrients like manganese also may help. Keep in mind that the disease is hard to treat by the time symptoms are visible aboveground. Fungicides are most effective as a preventative measure.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhile South Florida lawns may stay green all year, North Florida lawns usually turn brown during dormancy. If you want it to stay green, you could overseed with cool-season grass in fall.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass grows fast, is cheap, and will die off in spring, so it doesn’t compete with your usual grass. You can overseed any warm-season grass except centipedegrass, as it could cause centipedegrass decline. Here are the steps you’d need to take:
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Overseeding works best if you dethatched your lawn in spring.
\n\n\n\nRemember, if you choose this route, you’re signing up for extra lawn maintenance. You’ll need to water frequently while it germinates. Consider specialized turf paint if you want an easier way to keep your lawn green. Of course, the easiest option is to let nature take its course and wait out your brown lawn.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Pre-emergent herbicides can kill young ryegrass. Consider whether you’d prefer to overseed for winter color or deal with weeds.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour lawn can best utilize fertilizer when it’s actively growing in spring and summer. However, your grass may still benefit from a high-potassium fertilizer in fall. Fertilizers with slow-release nitrogen are better for your grass because they don’t release too many nutrients at once. Since many soils in Florida are high in phosphorus, use a fertilizer with little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nDon’t fertilize your lawn any later than September. It could promote a growth spurt, and new growth will be more sensitive to cold. There’s no need to fertilize dormant grass, either.
\n\n\n\nCan you skip fall fertilization? Sure — just wait until spring. The spring application will help your grass recover from winter and start the growing season strong.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-15.jpg\")
Photo Credit: lutavia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grass stops growing when air and soil temps are below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. While you may need to mow throughout the fall, the slowed growth means you’ll need to rev up the mower less and less frequently.
\n\n\n\nThough it may be tempting to mow low, your grass can better survive stressors if mowed high. Here are the recommended mowing heights for the grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Only cut off one-third of the grass blade at a time. Removing more can damage grass and make it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and weeds. If you want to change your mowing height, it’s best to adjust it gradually.
\n\n\n\n![\"Small](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/water-sprinkler-e1680265702957.jpg\")
Lawns in Jacksonville generally need watering once or twice a week in the fall, but by winter, you can water as little as once every two to three weeks. Rain will provide for some of your grass’ needs. However, you’ll need to cover the rest with supplemental irrigation. Here are some watering tips:
\n\n\n\nThe University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences recommends irrigation on an as-needed basis to reduce overwatering. Look for the following signs of dehydration:
\n\n\n\n![\"Tools](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Organized-Shed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: woodleywonderworks / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs the end of fall approaches, you may reach for your mower and weed eater less or not at all. If you’re ready to retire your equipment for the year, make sure it’s in good condition before you do so.
\n\n\n\nRemember, you may still need these tools if you decide to overseed your lawn for winter color. It’s still a good idea to complete some maintenance, though.
\n\n\n\nNeither. Grass that’s too short can be vulnerable to diseases and weeds, while extra-long grass can look unruly and provide a haven for pests. Keep your grass in the middle, following the recommended mowing height for each grass type. It’s also best to mow your grass as you usually do for the last mow of the season.
It’s better to aerate your lawn in spring. Why? Though beneficial, aeration is an invasive procedure that your lawn needs time to heal from. Aerating in fall could leave your lawn weak going into winter. Wait until spring to get the best benefits and harm your lawn the least.
No. Winterizer fertilizer is a bad fit for Florida lawns because it often contains too much nitrogen. Instead, look for a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer. Here are some suitable NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) ratios:
• 9-2-24
• 5-2-14
• 8-2-34
• 5-0-22
No. These products are usually too general to meet the specific needs of different homeowners’ lawns. Like many cure-alls, it may not be as effective as advertised. The best way to fertilize and control weeds is to follow your soil test results and create a game plan based on the specific weeds you encounter.
Lawn care checklists are helpful, but they aren’t always fun. After all, you still have to haul out the lawn supplies and put reminders in your calendar for crucial tasks. Wouldn’t you rather spend your weekend trying the new fall flavors at Whit’s Frozen Custard? Consider professional lawn care services if you’d rather keep your free time free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ventura Ave House / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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