![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_4pexels-rovenimagescom-949584.jpg\")
Little Rock is unique. Its climate is classified as subtropical, but the city experiences four distinct seasons with very short, cold winters. Named after an actual rock, “la Petite Roche” to the locals, the bustling metropolis has plenty of prime outdoor months with annual high temperatures averaging 73 degrees Fahrenheit and lows averaging 52 degrees […]
\n","content":"\nLittle Rock is unique. Its climate is classified as subtropical, but the city experiences four distinct seasons with very short, cold winters. Named after an actual rock, “la Petite Roche” to the locals, the bustling metropolis has plenty of prime outdoor months with annual high temperatures averaging 73 degrees Fahrenheit and lows averaging 52 degrees Fahrenheit. The best grass types for Little Rock need little water to survive the unique climate. Read on to discover four warm-season varieties suitable for your Little Rock landscape.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLike Goldilocks, Arkansas sits in the transition zone. This means summers are too hot for cool-season grass varieties and winters are too cold for warm-season grasses in most of the state, making it incredibly difficult to maintain your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAll types of grass are classified into one of two categories:
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock sits on the banks of the Arkansas River in the middle of the state. Cool-season grass varieties perform best in Northern Arkansas, making Little Rock best-suited for warm-season varieties.
\n\n\n\nThe following warm-season grass types are perfectly suited for the climatic and soil conditions of Little Rock:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is the most common Arkansas grass variety, and it is adapted to the entire state. It is an aggressive grass that recovers quickly from damage. The turfgrass is moderately cold-tolerant, hardy, and fine-textured. It withstands drought and heavy foot traffic, making it a versatile option for golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns.
\n\n\n\nLittle Rock is home to common and hybrid bermudagrass varieties. Sun-loving common bermudagrass has a light green color and coarse texture, while hybrid cultivars have a finer texture and dark green appearance. Common bermudagrass requires less maintenance than hybrid varieties but is less dense with a more sparse appearance and lower disease resistance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease; prone to spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, and sheath spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance; prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, army worms, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/St-Augustine-Grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass thrives in the Little Rock summers. It is dense with deep roots and the least winter-hardy of the warm-season grasses. Luckily, it performs well in centrally located Little Rock. It has high shade tolerance, is quick-growing, and is easy to establish. However, the dense turfgrass does not stand up well to heavy traffic or herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is blue-green and coarse-textured. It is hardy as far north as Little Rock. The most readily available cultivar is the common St. Augustinegrass, and all cultivars are susceptible to disease and pests like chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to gray leaf spot, large patch, and take-all root rot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; prone to chinch bugs, cutworms, mole crickets, grass loopers, army worms, web worms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is used throughout Arkansas. This turfgrass tolerates drought, low mow heights, shade, heavy traffic, and even lower temperatures. It has low fertilization requirements and grows densely, blocking out weeds thanks to thick, stiff leaf blades.
\n\n\n\nTwo cultivars of Zoysiagrass are present in Little Rock, Zoysia japonica and Zoysia matrella. The attractive turfgrass is recognizable for its dense appearance and dark green color. Arkansas cultivars are not prone to disease or insect infestation, but grow slowly.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, army worms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is slow-growing, making it a low-maintenance choice for Little Rock lawns. Cultivars require little mowing, fertilization, or water to remain lush and green. It handles shade better than bermudagrass, but the smooth, flat-bladed grass does not handle heavy traffic, cold, or herbicides well.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass has a pronounced medium texture and light green color. This turfgrass prefers to be left alone and is prone to pests and disease when improperly maintained or over watered.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to ground pearl insects, grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, and lawn caterpillars
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\nNo. While Arkansas lies in the transition zone, centrally located Little Rock is too warm to grow cool-season grasses. Cities in Northern Arkansas can grow tall fescue, a cool-season grass that tolerates heat better than other varieties.
You should plant your grass seed in May or June. This gives the seed plenty of time to germinate before the hot Little Rock summer.
St. Augustinegrass is the most shade-friendly grass type for Little Rock.
The best grass cultivars for Little Rock are warm-season varieties suited to Arkansas’ unique USDA zones, 7b to 8a. All turfgrasses have their own characteristics and needs. Choose a variety that works well for your space and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nYour grass comes together to help form your complete landscape. There are numerous landscaping options for Little Rock, and you can take advantage of the city’s four unique seasons. Be sure to check out our guides to help you keep your lawn healthy year-round:
\n\n\n\nConquer Arkansas’ humid climate. Contact a Little Rock lawn care pro today to help you maintain a green and healthy lawn, so you have more free time outdoors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Valis55 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Little Rock","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/1789c/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/107df/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/293e9/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/f2cbb/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/1789c/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/c26c2/Little-Rock-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/1dd6e/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/67b76/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/8df11/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/98a65/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/1dd6e/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/acc1fc681c1053d02590a90a4f6a68b0/3cc96/Little-Rock-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Little Rock | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season, drought-tolerant grasses are the best choice for Little Rock, and these four species are great options."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"8d4fc8e1-df88-5d3f-b3d3-7fe18bec1c5e","slug":"controlling-the-worst-weeds-in-austin","path":"/lawn-care/tx/austin/controlling-the-worst-weeds-in-austin/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c823f674-c750-5882-9059-d8c27fbe7e1d","name":"Austin","count":19,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/austin/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"Texans fight an uphill battle against the climate to maintain lush, green lawns. While we get wrapped up in mortal combat against scorching heat and epic droughts, another foe wages a battle against us: weeds. Unlike our turf, weeds couldn’t care less when it comes to drought, heat, and neglect. In fact, the conditions that […]
\n","content":"\nTexans fight an uphill battle against the climate to maintain lush, green lawns. While we get wrapped up in mortal combat against scorching heat and epic droughts, another foe wages a battle against us: weeds. Unlike our turf, weeds couldn’t care less when it comes to drought, heat, and neglect. In fact, the conditions that kill the landscapes we love only make them stronger. Once we let down our guard, they sprout and spread. Once these invaders have made landfall, our only hope is to stop them from advancing. Here are some tips for controlling the worst weeds in Austin.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/3xloc5YBo1YwFQ690cX2SCF_KZof84QQvmWZAM91v7RDI1GPttiFZrU2rf1rDaPwe08GSA-k4rEUW3w9f3zKKOP5tEmqgP-sYANnTTb907K-HcjNhZgmMCAGsfIkLgBYkD1Vy9UD\")
The best defense against weeds is a vigorous lawn, since that makes it challenging for weeds to gain traction. Your yard is only as safe as its weakest patch of grass. Weeds are opportunists looking for a bare spot where they can put down roots and establish themselves. A number of weeds are waiting for their chance to pounce, but they tend to leave mowed, fertilized, healthy turf alone. Most weeds won’t withstand regular mowing. Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and Saint Augustinegrass all enjoy Austin’s hot, humid summers and with proper care will form a dense mat that resists the enemy.
\n\n\n\nWhen you see weeds invading your lawn, don’t look the other way. Once you allow a weed to go to seed, your front line is compromised, and you’ll have to spend a season working offense. To avoid this, when you spot a weed poking up through the turf, immediately remove it from the roots. String trimmers, aka “weed whackers” are only a temporary fix because when roots remain in the ground, the weed can pop right back up to fight another day.
\n\n\n\nDrop your weeds in the trash to make sure they don’t make a comeback – some weeds can regenerate if you just cast them aside on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDeveloping a strong knowledge of the weeds you’re fighting will help you defeat them. The main categories of noxious weeds in Austin are broadleaf weeds and grass-like weeds. Each requires different techniques to defeat.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/IsgL9UTVcXYiG-Mh6w7Kc1qCFfvk5PrGkBaWPso3caR8nai1A70zBNtdaTQeYgvqL-rNnn_6t7AP4pHzVcxBI26_lXxaucrFhflVv2smJkk3nS92--Zaph_tgRlfIDSMQcKfj0Qm\")
Dandelions can be either biennial or perennial but usually burst into full bloom in late spring or early summer. The dandelion’s distinctive appearance makes it easy to identify. There are multiple effective ways to win the war against dandelions. The easiest is to mow often before the flowers have gone to seed. Next, pull them up by the roots. Finally, apply a selective weed killer directly to the plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thistle,](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/qHn9KZc9lDtiEA5267GRUtB-oIoQlpfG2Dv6FHv4nF75V7VCMpsrrKzLuQFjg8ZZZ5MYG16qOc-2fTlA_58kcF5FZTyNhc7J8kVM50XYpUzTQvJNBeqlqiMZGnjVbSvmcTtnrpzw\")
Thistles are weeds that can also be either biennial or perennial and can be very tough to fight once established. They can reach a height of several feet and can take up the whole lawn if you let them. Though stubborn, this is one weed that’s easy to control: cut to the ground with a hoe or pull up from the roots. Just remember to bag up the thistle you cut, as they will go to seed wherever they land.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/pyatElKLY5M6EkIRFnfo51BPhVGY4H2Dh69MwmyArT2GulzmGokAtyuHsvYJ5Y7LBtzIarQz9FOp1G9YsbIDdFJ9JEy6KABlmJJDawfXDDaIzJ-vgwmwc8mOyQNqsxZj0hi-2uvU\")
The bane of all homeowners and turf managers, crabgrass is a vigorous weed that thrives under the conditions that kill everything else. It grows flat along the ground, and this low profile allows it to stealthily spread right under the cutting line of mowers. The best way to fight this weed is to apply a pre-emergent weed control treatment at the end of winter before the ground warms.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/iTLOWhTYZYDd_wE23vvq10Pf75B1R4E_1dT7uvhiHpQWB49xqd5jXscCs76jbih_Rv63KujmMW34RzrejlczNuOAexyP44G18srUtvVCJXeViOR1S9pdSUXw4hvpNMeC-YtW3Ozd\")
This warm-season annual grass is tough as nails – mature blades are difficult to cut with a mower if the blades are not razor sharp. Although the first frost of the winter will kill the plants, each plant can produce up to 50,000 seeds. The best method for limiting their expansion is to apply a pre-emergent in the weeks before it sprouts.
\n\n\n\nThe war against weeds is the longest-running battle in human history. Even the most vigilant homeowner finds weeds in their turf from time to time. So keep your eyes peeled and your battle gear handy, because you never know when the weeds will find you.
\n\n\n\nInterested in learning more about gardening and lawn care in Austin? Visit our Austin TX lawn care page.
It takes a little knowhow, but a gorgeous green lawn is possible throughout Kansas City’s hot summer. We’ll teach you how with this guide to summer lawn care.
\n","content":"\nIf you want a yard that looks like a million bucks through the summer, you have to work at it — even though it’s tempting to stay inside in the AC when the mercury rises above 90 degrees. Here’s a simplified guide to summer lawn care in Kansas City.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/HTw7cXSeV6wctW5M2ruTNy-VT3FT7ENWHGK-E5hwVJ8XcyS6uhpiecYQmVGQ191sZpLTmGF-kJToZAIBiUCcjx1BR5cJ8XAW3TWk_UDs4poCaTvmThj1VqBsPxaZpQ49ArjzNdWi\")
The first thing that comes to mind is watering. Yes, your grass needs water when it’s hot, but there’s a right way to go about it. You may be tempted to over-irrigate, assuming that more is better when it’s hot. In fact, because Kansas City soil has a lot of clay, excessive water simply runs down the curb and into the gutter.
\n\n\n\nAlso, if you water too much or too often, your grass roots will stay near the surface. You want them to go deep. Make them work for their drink! In that same vein, it’s better to water about three times a week rather than every day.
\n\n\n\nYour yard needs 1-2 inches of water per week. That can come from rain or irrigation, or a combination of both. KC typically gets about 23 inches of rain between May and September — so Mother Nature does her part.
\n\n\n\nAfter watering, the soil beneath your turfgrass should be moist down to 4-6 inches deep. A way to gauge that is to shove a long screwdriver into it and measure the muddy residue on it. Water in the morning when the dew is on the blades and before the day begins baking. If you water in the afternoon, most of it will just evaporate in the hot air. Evenings are a second-best alternative, but avoid watering at night. When grass stays wet in the cool overnight, it invites in damaging bacteria and fungi.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/HYMUoACJ7JELrll3x5HrRsU71Fe6o2xbVdiwy8PmET9n-UeIYgaUyYVZ6T-Pu3P7TDpBjW_nxY2wxZtnrmNETGvVRpgVXFnAo9FBj3UVtmmfzhIj112Mt8MIeUIcz_9kQinQcFH6\")
So, the grass is watered, and the sun is shining. Next comes that all-American summertime ritual — mowing. There is a temptation to mow your lawn down until it is as pristine as a putting green. And let’s admit it – we like to cut it short to stretch out the days between mowing. Summer lawn care in Kansas City means regular mowing. The best types of grass for Kansas City are tall fescue and Zoysia. Both should stay about 2-1/2 to 3 inches tall to be healthy and to keep weeds from claiming squatters’ rights. Keep your lawn mower blade sharp. You want to clip your grass evenly — not beat it into submission.
\n\n\n\nIf you did your due diligence and treated your yard with pre-emergent herbicide in the spring, you fired the opening shot in the war on weeds. But the battle will continue through the summer.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/WZNaV71-7BBNaSkQ6BqgARMhmeobL62w-VRL_QYVN6lad9vpPOYdnmWJ1WheN0TrnKDfasRhxn8CWNWDloKavo930BJlHU2EygHudjwzvpYut97pzA9rP_LSNMqJsLqnBGqFseS6\")
You have two ways to fight it. First is the time-honored tradition of hoeing, digging, or pulling up weeds. The other is to use a post-emergent herbicide. Your best bet is a selective post-emergent product. Selective means it should kill certain types of weeds and grasses, but leave others alone. Make sure to read the label and get a product that will kill your weeds, but not your grass. Selective herbicides will kill off the top of your weeds, but will not stop buried weed seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll also find nonselective post-emergent herbicides, like the popular Roundup brand. These will kill everything they touch, including your grass and yard plants. The best use of these potent products is on weeds and grasses that pop up in the cracks of your sidewalk and driveway and along fence lines.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re a conscientious lawn steward, you fertilized in the spring. Don’t do it again in the heat of summer or you’ll risk chemical burn to your grass.
\n\n\n\nKeep an eye out for brown patches in your lawn. This could be a sign of grub worms. A few grubs will not hurt a healthy lawn. But if the turf peels back easily and you see a lot of the fat little creatures, a trip to the garden center for pesticide should nip the problem. Look for a product that contains neonicotinoids or chlorantraniliprole.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a great yard all summer is an ongoing chore, but follow this regimen, and you should have plenty of time to kick back and enjoy the fruits of your labor!
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Kansas City? Visit our Kansas City Lawn Care page.
Pumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care […]
\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care begins in the fall, and September is a crucial month for fertilizer. Follow our fall lawn care checklist to maintain your lawn and prepare it for the winter playoff season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nResidents love Tennessee’s mild autumns. The southern state is in the transition zone, and both warm and cool-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Proper fall lawn care from September through November sets the foundation for your landscape during the winter months and spring green-up. Proper maintenance during these cool transition months helps your lawn grow deeper, stronger roots.
\n\n\n\nFall lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s mild fall gives way to a short, cold, and wet winter, causing some cool-season grass cultivars and most warm-season grass cultivars to go dormant, developing thatch. Thatch is the tight, intermingled layer of dead grass, living grass blades, and roots that accumulate above soil level but below eye line visibility. Thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Watch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately to avoid suffocating your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to identify your grass variety. Tennessee cool-season grass cultivars like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass actively grow in the fall and early spring. Warm-season varieties such as bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass hit their green-up phase in late spring and summer. Dethatch your cool-season lawn in early fall and save your warm-season cultivar dethatching session for spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. Aeration is a common method to introduce this element back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of common aeration: core aeration and spike aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass and mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators extract cores of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover cores of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, reducing compaction, increasing air exchange, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators poke small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nEarly fall is one of the best times to test your soil to ensure it has all the nutrients it needs to thrive. Middle Tennessee is home to many soil types and some are nutrient deficient. It is important to understand exactly what nutrients your grass is lacking. Murfreesboro homeowners should send in a soil sample for testing in September.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a one-cup core sample to receive your results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications and lime for soil pH imbalances.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/green-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nLate summer and early fall are the best times to seed your cool-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while spring is the best time to seed warm-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are cool-season cultivars that respond well to fall overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your cool-season Tennessee lawn in late August or early September. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your turfgrass cultivar, a fall fertilizer application promotes deep roots and sets your grass up for success during its fall green-up or winter dormancy period. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape, so it is important to start with a soil test. The best time to apply fertilizer depends on your turfgrass cultivar, while the best type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize cool-season grass cultivars like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass as they hit their active growing season. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn on Sept. 1, Oct. 15, and Nov. 15 to improve root depth and turf density. Be sure to select a fertilizer that satisfies your soil test results with the proper N-P-K ratio.
\n\n\n\nA fall fertilizer application helps warm-season turfgrasses like centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass resist winter weeds and improves turf color and spring recovery rates. Fertilize your warm-season lawn with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn around Sept. 1. Pay attention to the potassium and phosphorus needs on your soil test results and select a low-nitrogen, high-potassium or phosphorus blend, if needed.
\n\n\n\nLime is a fall soil amendment like fertilizer composed of limestone rock ground into powder. It contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The addition of lime to your turfgrass increases nutrients and soil alkalinity, spreading beneficial bacteria. The ideal pH for your soil depends on the type of turfgrass in your landscape. Apply lime in September, October, or November if your soil test recommends it.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Fine Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 6.0 – 7.0 |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Tall Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nThe `Boro’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the fall. The city’s autumns are warm with a 49% chance of cloud cover and give way to short, wet, and cold winters. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, it is tempting to mow your lawn short and make less work for yourself, but most grass types benefit from longer grass blades in the fall. Cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury, weeds, and cold stress. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots, setting your lawn up for winter success and a better spring green-up.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass benefit from higher mowing heights in the fall to increase insulation and encourage deeper roots before winter.
\n\n\n\nRaise the height of your cut by a half inch in mid-September. Continue mowing through fall until the first frost. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in the fall, and never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow every seven to 14 days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn. Always aim to cut less, more often.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their active growth phase in the early fall after summer dormancy
\n\n\n\nMow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during fall. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
No matter what variety of turfgrass your lawn has, Murfreesboro lawns seldom need daily irrigating in the fall unless it is brand new. Water as needed early in the morning throughout fall. Winters in the `Boro are usually wet, providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all Tennessee turfgrass varieties twice per week if it hasn’t rained, aiming for a half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYour best defense against lawn disease is routine maintenance, including watering, fertilization, and proper mowing heights. Tennessee’s mild fall temperatures and subtropical climate create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi, including large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, rust, nematodes, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that appears as brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. This disease affects bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue. It does not respond well to fungicides. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is caused by a Tennessee soil-dwelling fungus that thrives in the warm, moist weather of spring and fall. It affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nFairy rings, caused by mushroom or puffball-producing fungi, affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. Be on the lookout for an arc or ring of dead grass surrounded by healthy grass. Many infections also produce mushrooms or puffballs around the ring.
\n\n\n\nLike large patch, fairy rings do not respond well to fungicides. Till or remove the soil around the affected area and reseed for severe infestations. For mild infestations, remove thatch, aerate, and perform routine maintenance, ensuring proper irrigation.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during cool, moist fall weather, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. These unsegmented roundworms need moisture to survive, and populations peak in the fall. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Spores germinate through moisture and dew, and active infections pop up throughout spring into fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf.
\n\n\n\nTreat rust using a fungicide, and prevent this Tennessee turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions to minimize leaf moisture.
\n\n\n\nStripe smut is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It is a serious fall disease causing stunted root growth, stiff and erect leaf blades, and a yellow and brown appearance.
\n\n\n\nOnce an outbreak occurs, smut fungus grows rapidly in fall temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Treat the turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance, including infrequent but deep waterings and proper fertilization. Fungicide applications can help reduce active infections.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWeeds love Murfreesboro’s subtropical climate. These pests signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health, including low-nitrogen levels, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds siphon vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and spread pests and diseases. Two common methods of weed control include post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nAll cool-season Tennessee turfgrasses, including tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass benefit from a fall application of pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination. Additionally, both Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass benefit from a September pre-emergent herbicide application to control annual bluegrass, a common Tennessee weed.
\n\n\n\nWhile these herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds, they will help control the emergence of new winter annual and perennial broadleaf and grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter grassy weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth of winter broadleaf weeds that become a nuisance during Murfreesboro falls. Always apply the herbicide directly to the active weed. Wait 30 days between applications, and never apply more than two applications per year.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter broadleaf weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nLocations with four seasons like Murfreesboro attract many homeowners with promises of warm summers, changing fall foliage, and a chance for a white Christmas. Watching leaves change from green to autumn gold, bronze, and red is something to look forward to as you sip your pumpkin spice latte and gear up for Friday night football. Unfortunately, the colorful leaves drop to the ground, creating a fluffy and crunchy layer over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nLeaves block out the sun, trap moisture, reduce airflow, and lead to dead spots of turfgrass. They increase pest problems and spread disease, so be sure to remove them as soon as possible. Wait until the leaves are dry to rake and prepare to rake your lawn before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the leaves and layer of thatch left behind. It does not matter if you rake as your leaves fall or wait until all the leaves in your yard have fallen.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners can stop mowing their warm-season Murfreesboro lawns in mid-October. These cultivars include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Homeowners with cool-season varieties, including Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue, can typically stop mowing after the first frost in early December.
Warm-season turf gasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass will go dormant during the end of fall and the beginning of winter. These cultivars dry out and turn brown.
The best way to determine if your grass is dormant is by pulling on it. If the grass comes out of the ground easily, it is likely dead. However, if there is resistance from deep roots when you pull on your grass, it is dormant.
No. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients. It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Tennessee turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass.
Mild fall weather creates a prime environment for routine yard work that will set your lawn up to take on the wet, cold Tennessee winter and prepare it for a better green-up in the spring. Be sure to check out our spring lawn care tips to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and would rather watch football or hit the trails, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your lawn establish deep roots so it can survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tarpely Farm-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.606425702811245,"src":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/107df/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/293e9/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/f2cbb/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/c26c2/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/67b76/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/8df11/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/98a65/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/3cc96/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 11 valuable tips for maintaining a fall lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the cold Tennessee winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"fd759ad3-97c9-5a27-81d9-36829aa33e5b","slug":"best-grass-types-kentucky","path":"/lawn-care/ky/best-grass-types-kentucky/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Rela Catucod, a journalism graduate, nurtured her love for gardening while admiring her grandmother's vibrant orchids. When she's not writing about lawn care, Rela indulges in reading, traveling, and playing with her two dogs.","name":"Rela Catucod","id":"14e95666-6df4-5827-8d17-081d01b8ce99","path":"/author/rela-catucod/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4741d869f47268640f525e2135c701c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"bf9d3d3b-daa0-503e-afcb-a4dbbfdca111","name":"Kentucky","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ky/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 28th, 2023","excerpt":"Kentucky, a state situated in the transition zone, offers homeowners various grass types to cultivate a lush lawn. The Bluegrass State boasts picturesque landscapes, and whether you’re hosting family barbecues or playing a game of catch with your kids, selecting the best grass type for Kentucky is essential to creating the perfect environment for your […]
\n","content":"\nKentucky, a state situated in the transition zone, offers homeowners various grass types to cultivate a lush lawn. The Bluegrass State boasts picturesque landscapes, and whether you’re hosting family barbecues or playing a game of catch with your kids, selecting the best grass type for Kentucky is essential to creating the perfect environment for your favorite outdoor activities.
\n\n\n\nIn this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the best grass types for various regions throughout Kentucky (Eastern, Western, and Central Kentucky). We’ll discuss each turf’s characteristics, maintenance needs, and suitability for your specific lifestyle, ensuring you make the most informed decision for your lawn care.
\n\n\n\nFor Kentucky homeowners aiming to cultivate the perfect lawn, it’s important to grasp the contrast between warm-season and cool-season grasses. While warm-season grasses flourish in high temperatures and become inactive during colder periods, cool-season grasses excel in temperate conditions and go dormant in sweltering summers and freezing winters.
\n\n\n\nKentucky homeowners must choose suitable grasses for their climate. Both cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, and warm-season varieties, such as bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass, can thrive in the state. Consider local weather patterns and specific lawn needs. This approach ensures a lush, healthy lawn year-round.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a favored choice for homeowners throughout the Bluegrass State, renowned for its durability and adaptability to regional climates. Ideal for outdoor events and family activities, this grass variety boasts a dense turf that recovers quickly from wear and tear, while enduring high foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nDisplaying a rich, deep green hue, Kentucky bluegrass loves full sun exposure but struggles in shady areas. To maintain its pristine appearance, this type of grass requires attentive care, including regular mowing, watering, and fertilizer application.
\n\n\n\nThis cool-season grass flourishes in East and Central Kentucky, thriving during the mild temperatures of spring and fall, and entering dormancy in extreme heat.
Classification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: High; requires regular mowing, fertilization, and irrigation
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 inches and 3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; prone to lead spot, dollar spot, and summer patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to sod webworms, aphids, thrips, and leafhoppers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 to 7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, fertile soil
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: East and Central Kentucky Regions
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Kentucky bluegrass does not perform well in Western Kentucky. To ensure it thrives in your garden, mix it with two or more different cultivars.
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Daderot / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor Kentucky homeowners in search of a flexible, low-maintenance lawn, tall fescue is a fantastic option. This heat-tolerant cool-season grass thrives in various soil types and sunlight conditions, making it ideal for the diverse terrains found across the Bluegrass State, from the Appalachian Mountains to the Mississippi River lowlands.
\n\n\n\nThe resilience of tall fescue, combined with its minimal watering needs, suits active outdoor areas and helps conserve water during dry spells. Although it may require more frequent mowing, its innate resistance to pests, ability to outcompete weeds, and limited thatch accumulation ensure a lovely, low-hassle lawn perfect for Kentucky family gatherings, barbecues, and backyard games.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; requires frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when grass reaches 3 inches tall
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; has a high disease resistance when properly maintained
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to armyworms, white grubs, and cutworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable to various soil types like heavy clay or sandy soils; prefers clay soils with good drainage
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: Statewide, particularly in the West Kentucky region
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Tall fescue has a slow recovery rate. Overseeding can enhance the lawn’s overall look and density when necessary.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you’re seeking a hardy and drought-tolerant lawn, bermudagrass is an excellent choice. Its fine to medium blades grow rapidly, creating a dense, green turf perfect for basking in the warm, sunny Kentucky summers and enjoying outdoor activities.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass thrives in the Western Kentucky, tolerating the heat and occasional droughts with ease. It’s also sturdy enough to withstand playtime with children and pets. Keep in mind, though, that to maintain its lush appearance, bermudagrass does require regular mowing and care.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low; thrives in full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; needs frequent mowing due to fats growth rate, develops thatch easily, needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set the mowing height between 0.5 and 1.5 inches for hybrid bermudagrass cultivars. Mow common bermudagrass down to 1.5 to 2.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: Western Kentucky
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermudagrass is a low-maintenance choice for homeowners, enjoying nitrogen and needing no mowing from October to April. Keep in mind, though, it can spread easily, turn brown during dormancy, and may be vulnerable to winter damage.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysia-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass, known for its fine texture and dense growth, is an excellent option for Kentucky homeowners seeking a stunning, resilient lawn. Requiring minimal water and nutrients, it’s ideal for conserving resources while enjoying a verdant turf perfect for warm summer months and outdoor events. Zoysiagrass thrives in areas, such as Louisville, where heat and drought are common.
\n\n\n\nWith outstanding tolerance for heat, drought, and foot traffic, Zoysiagrass is well-suited for active households with rowdy children and big dogs. Keep in mind, though, that this grass variety grows slower than others, so patience is key when starting a new lawn or filling in bare areas.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes and stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low nitrogen fertilization requirements, although, it’s prone to thatch build-up.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 1 and 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; grubs can cause serious damage
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable to various soil types, prefers well-draining soils
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: Western Kentucky
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Zoysiagrass establishes slowly, so patience is required when starting a new lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man's](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red-Fescue-a-species-of-fine-fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor Kentucky homeowners with shaded lawns or a desire for a low-maintenance landscape, fine fescue is the perfect cool-season grass. With excellent shade tolerance and minimal upkeep needs, these grasses can thrive in every region of Kentucky.
\n\n\n\nImagine your fine fescue lawn providing a verdant backdrop for family barbecues, outdoor games, or simply enjoying the natural beauty of the Bluegrass State. With its easy going nature and adaptability, fine fescue offers Kentucky homeowners a welcoming and eco-friendly outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as Chewings, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High; depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to High; depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate; depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6 to 6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: Statewide
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fine fescues are often used in grass seed mixtures with other cool-season grasses to improve shade tolerance and adaptability.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a top pick for Kentucky homeowners desiring a beautiful, low-maintenance lawn. Its fine leaf texture, dark green hue, and quick germination make it perfect for a new lawn or filling bare spots, just in time for Derby season or a family cookout. Adaptable to various Kentucky regions, this type of grass thrives in areas with ample sunlight and well-draining soil.
\n\n\n\nWhat sets perennial ryegrass apart is its tolerance for high traffic and ability to outcompete some weeds, making it ideal for lively yards with kids or pets. Keep in mind that this grass requires a sharp mower for effortless mowing and summer watering to stay lush and healthy amidst Kentucky’s warm, humid weather.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunching
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate; regular mowing and fertilization are necessary
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High; prone to gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to ants, sod webworm, thrips, and white grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage
\n\n\n\nThrives in these regions: Statewide
\n\n\n\nOther notes: This grass type is great for homeowners who want a shorter, well-manicured lawn. However, be mindful of its limited heat tolerance, which may require extra care during Louisville’s scorching summers.
\n\n\n\nThe best grass types for Louisville include:
\n\n\n\nConsider factors such as climate, soil type, shade tolerance, and maintenance requirements. Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues are popular choices in Lexington.
\n\n\n\nYes, mixing grass types can create a more resilient and versatile lawn. For example, Kentucky bluegrass can be blended with fine fescue or perennial ryegrass for improved performance.
\n\n\n\nWhen selecting a grass type for your Kentucky lawn, consider the following factors:
\n\n\n\nIncorporating low-maintenance landscaping ideas and selecting Kentucky’s best native plants will create a more sustainable and eco-friendly yard. Looking for a lawn care pro near you? We have trusted lawn care pros in Louisville, Lexington, and many more cities across the state.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: PxHere
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Kentucky","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5056461731493098,"src":"/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/1789c/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/107df/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/293e9/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/f2cbb/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/1789c/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/c26c2/A-house-with-a-lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/1dd6e/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/67b76/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/8df11/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/98a65/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/1dd6e/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/632c7baf34f4ca56c9f2d2030d79f767/3cc96/A-house-with-a-lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Kentucky","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover top Kentucky grass types for a thriving lawn, suited to the region's climate and perfect for creating a lush green space."}}},{"node":{"id":"f6b8f9c4-eb28-52c6-b216-03bf7dabc6df","slug":"native-plants-fort-worth","path":"/lawn-care/tx/fort-worth/native-plants-fort-worth/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"9ccd5174-167e-5379-890b-68ac830ec905","name":"Forth Worth","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/fort-worth/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 12th, 2019","excerpt":"Choosing these native plants for a Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work.
\n","content":"\nCreating a landscape that’s both easy to care for as well as beautiful is easy in North Texas. Plenty of plants call the Fort Worth area home, and you’ll find them in both natural areas as well as cultivated gardens. Choosing native plants for Fort Worth garden is a way to support the environment while saving yourself work. Check out these native plants for Fort Worth that will flourish in your backyard.
\n\n\n\nAny way you pronounce it (and Texans pronounce it with a soft “ahn” at the end), the pecan tree is the state tree of Texas. This native tree features beautiful green foliage and plenty of those delicious nuts. Pecan trees can grow up to 100 feet tall, and live to be quite old. This member of the hickory family is a staple in the area and would make a great addition to any North Texas home. It can spread wider than other native trees, so make sure that you have enough room to house this beauty for years to come.
\n\n\n\n![\"Hummingbird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/hummingbird-bush-1024x713.jpeg\")
Also known as the Mexican flame, the hummingbird bush is a Texas native and a magnet for pollinators. This bush features bright red blooms that accentuate any Fort Worth garden. The long tubular flower allows hummingbirds to reach the nectar. Plant the hummingbird bush in drier parts of the garden or along rocky slopes. Placing this beautiful bush near a window or outdoor living space will create up close and personal viewings of the many hummingbirds that will flock to this plant.
\n\n\n\nThere are many different kinds of coneflowers, or echinacea, available in local garden centers all around the Fort Worth area. You’ll find different leaf structures, but all include a beautiful seed head that points towards the sky. Coneflowers are quite popular, for their robust stance against heat and drought. These lovely blooms will continue on for months and attract a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies and bees. Plant coneflowers along a walkway or in a cluster to add both color and vibrancy to the yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrIgK5EFEKyKcFZdbxDFjSTwoAoMmf76p0dPAK_O7x6AeDydSobidtNx6JkZ91vfAld3I1j7WRSX6ZML-8J7IUNMAAV9bTxAHY5sibhgzTDH35XuhIn18LN1Pzgq7gyH-cG_nVn7\")
There is nothing quite like the stunning color of the purple berries that form on the American beautyberry bush. This native plant will grow to around 5 feet tall in favorable soil conditions. The striking clusters of bright purple berries form along the branches of the plant. The berries attract a wide variety of birds. Unfortunately, deer like to eat its large oval-shaped leaves. We recommend planting this native in a spot where you can enjoy the beautiful colors as well as the birds that will flock to it.
\n\n\n\nMany different species of yucca are native to the Fort Worth area. You’ll find Yucca plants all over in various shades and styles. This hardy plant loves hot Texas weather and is extremely drought tolerant. It can grow in a variety of soil conditions and requires little to no maintenance once established. Mix yucca in with other native plants in your landscape or in a xeriscaped area that features drought-resistant plants.
\n\n\n\nUsing native plants in your landscape will add natural beauty and keep you from having to sweat it out in the yard maintaining the garden. Consider adding any or all of these native plants to your Fort Worth garden this year.
Have more questions about lawn mowing and maintenance in Fort Worth? We got you covered! Go to our Fort Worth, TX lawn care page.
\n","title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/107df/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/293e9/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/f2cbb/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1789c/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.jpg 960w","srcWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/67b76/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 320w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/8df11/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 500w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/98a65/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 800w,\n/static/0df228058728749ffc726122b5386b4a/1dd6e/Ft-Worth-coneflower-3521669_960_720.webp 960w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Native Plants for Fort Worth | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"How does your garden grow? If you've planted native plants, it flourishes without much work or water. Check out our list of native plants for Fort Worth."}}},{"node":{"id":"64429b1f-2f8a-53b3-a1e0-32ebab2dd29c","slug":"lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/lawn-watering-restrictions-minneapolis-st-paul-area/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"June 28th, 2019","excerpt":"The amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do. The city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits […]
\n","content":"\nThe amount of lawn watering restrictions you face in the Twin Cities and surrounding suburbs depends on where you live. While Minneapolis and St. Paul don’t have any restrictions at the moment, many suburbs in the metro do.
\n\n\n\nThe city of South St. Paul established a “heat-of-the-day” sprinkling ban on Jan. 1, 2011. It prohibits lawn watering between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. each day. This ban exists because of a state requirement for cities to enact a water supply plan. For the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to approve the plan, cities have to adopt several conservation methods. You’ll find similar restrictions in other metro area municipalities.
\n\n\n\nThe suburb of Blaine has the same daytime sprinkling ban in effect from May 15 to Sept. 15. Blaine’s lawn watering restrictions go one step further. People with addresses ending in an odd number can only water on odd-numbered days. Those with addresses ending in an even number only get to water on even-numbered days. This restriction is in place year-round.
\n\n\n\nSo how can Minneapolis and St. Paul get away with no lawn watering restrictions? It’s because most of their water comes from the Mississippi River. The suburbs get their water from underground aquifers which could run dry. According to the Water Treatment and Distribution Services (WTDS), Minneapolis pumps 21 billion gallons of water from the river each year. To make it drinkable, WTDS filters soften and disinfect the water. Fun fact: Minneapolis has more than 1,000 miles of underground water mains. That’s enough to stretch from Minneapolis to Denver.
\n\n\n\nSt. Paul Regional Water Services provides 40 million gallons of water to more than 425,000 customers a day. The city uses similar procedures as Minneapolis to make the water safe for drinking.
\n\n\n\nBoth Minneapolis and St. Paul ask customers to conserve water, even though lawn watering restrictions aren’t in place. Both cities recommend that you water lawns in the morning or evening and not at all when it’s windy. Only water your lawn when it needs it instead of using a fixed schedule and adjust your sprinklers to avoid the sidewalks. Finally, aerate your lawn to allow more water to soak in, and let the grass grow taller during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to check with your city or county government for any lawn watering restrictions in your neighborhood. Penalties vary for violating the restrictions in suburban areas. If you live in the Twin Cities proper, join your suburban neighbors by watering smart this summer.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about pest control and prevention in your lawn? Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page for more guides and additional information.
Living in a subtropical planting zone has its advantages. One of the most noteworthy is the wide range of beautiful native plants we can use for landscaping. Natives are an optimal choice for yards and gardens because they’re already adapted to all the conditions the Gulf Coast environment can throw at them. They provide habitat […]
\n","content":"\nLiving in a subtropical planting zone has its advantages. One of the most noteworthy is the wide range of beautiful native plants we can use for landscaping. Natives are an optimal choice for yards and gardens because they’re already adapted to all the conditions the Gulf Coast environment can throw at them. They provide habitat for native wildlife and help to preserve our native flora. Read on for a list of native plants for Baton Rouge, LA.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/iKRzbM9Pns266l1jxMd-tJSeXRu-i4m671meODt_rK3jGnrNhdf51Ocmg7RqnNHEUS5bV-jacP-MYPOS0vgi3G1fKtTLBTIAlnc1J5AJ1yzQAiwlNBKcZda_1wYM6-qolsrBsXRC\")
This class of plants is a gardener’s best friend. Perennials come in many shapes and sizes, and most importantly, they bounce back from even the harshest winters. These plants give a great deal while asking little in return.
\n\n\n\nThis part of the garden helps create privacy and visually connects the ground to the trees. Shrubs can provide a windbreak or direct traffic along walkways, or even add to the feeling of separate “rooms” in a landscape.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/26fREMHnfu5h3HRiQz8vQt9oi_hZA_2c0YPPdExgig8AiDnC0PBqSmzJN4gMn8cXSfaMkO4udEyM8TdEEsM_FY3tYcCWBgF5mwpIWPIPjUbOcNq2xM_fftoPVWZcJqFSKxnZwigJ\")
There are many options for native plants in your Baton Rouge landscape. The beauty they offer is matched only by their low-maintenance needs. They also provide food for local wildlife and help repel invasive insects. Once you go native, it’s hard to look back.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Baton Rouge? Visit our Baton Rouge Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\n
Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.
Houston has a bug problem. One 2017 survey named the city as the most-pest-infested city in America. We’ve singled out the worst creepy-crawly pests and how to get rid of them. Cockroaches Cockroaches love hot and humid urban environments, which means Houston is perfect. About 38 species of cockroaches live in Texas, and Houston generously hosts […]
\n","content":"\nHouston has a bug problem.
\n\n\n\nOne 2017 survey named the city as the most-pest-infested city in America.
\n\n\n\nWe’ve singled out the worst creepy-crawly pests and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_dPcK3B59iPIv3e_AII1R4K9jbtQ_zI4EY-79b9MZdn8vYAItc-uME8QG4Gu8rvCTxRKpYFBL72hFAgZ-Z51GVUzchazq3RKo0hfPed2UMZJfRUA5xx27nkd6FIHP9bC-_xkcAbA\")
Cockroaches love hot and humid urban environments, which means Houston is perfect. About 38 species of cockroaches live in Texas, and Houston generously hosts all of the four most-common —the German, the brown-banded, the Asian and the American cockroach. According to the 2017 Realtor.com survey, Houston has the worst cockroach problem in the United States, with roaches present in 38% of its homes.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not just that they’re numerous — they’re huge.
\n\n\n\nIn 1982, The New York Times’ profiled the city of Houston. Much of the article was devoted to the legendary size of Houston’s bugs.
\n\n\n\n“The Houston cockroach is a creature of altogether different dimension,” the Times wrote. “There are those who maintain that it clanks when it walks, bellows like a wounded water buffalo, and stands flat-footed as high as a turkey. One man, new to Houston, upon first seeing a local cockroach, thought it was a Volkswagen and tried to drive it away. Their shadows weigh 15 pounds. ”
\n\n\n\nCockroaches live both inside and outside — really, they live wherever they want in Houston. But most species live outside and rarely hazard the indoors.
\n\n\n\nThey enter your home looking for food and water, so preventive measures will help keep them away. Clean up after cooking or eating, seal outside garbage cans tightly. Boric acid mixed with cornstarch is another popular potion. Roaches love the sweet starch, and the poison will kill them. Note: Boric acid is toxic, so keep it away from pets and kids.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/VPAFMTfqcE-FPPGGLBzkdr0YcI-FB_IAWQSF7GctJ7R04BGdMbQuQoPyd5Jq33R2DfOCT7dM0D6XmHAaPD6iOvZCH4izr_IoGsopPzmEL6t838q9C7q0stszgiRUEmNvCyNZ2vVA\")
Ants are high on the list of Houston’s worst pests. Pharaoh, fire, carpenter, odorous, and crazy ants are among the most common species. Their colonies can be huge with as many as 400,000 ants. It’s crucial to eliminate them to make sure they don’t relocate somewhere else. If you’re looking to do your own ant removal, bait boxes are more effective than sprays. Ants take the bait back to their nest and spread it. The poison gets to and kills the queen, preventing future populations. To keep from attracting ants, eliminate food and water sources in your home. Do this by keeping food sealed and cleaning up spills and crumbs. Check for cracks and leaks around windows, floorboards and doors so ants can’t enter your home. Maintain a healthy lawn to give ants fewer places to hide.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/cngZPU93td7dPvjVZfLeVWT7nfmDyiv9kydEvMoZgKhbMZGq_YUI5EHC_iLcnK_P4mjcncDgJg9_xoA6LN7Lhh6jzMUDmbv0h1K1GLLjOYbTW7Wz4xErX1tR2c-V801xYxyWbs-p\")
Houston’s subtropical climate attracts mosquitoes like a magnet. It doesn’t help that Houston also has lots of bayous. The wet and humid conditions are breeding grounds for these bloodsuckers. And they breed quickly: females can lay 100 eggs at a time, and those eggs hatch within a couple of days. They need a water source to lay their eggs, so one way to control them is to remove standing water from your property. Make sure windows and screens are in good repair to keep mosquitoes outside and use air conditioning whenever possible. Yellow light bulbs, citronella candles, and mosquito foggers can provide temporary relief. You can also see if your community has a mosquito control program. Use insect repellent when you’re outside and avoid the outdoors at dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active. You can also plant mosquito repelling plants such as marigolds, basil, lavender, and chrysanthemums.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/J88Hp_L4QOCKcLBRtlgDUGk1H8r-WjCZiMFyWFE4IHyhoge5CUuPsjL8CYN9UXRcm2RaRP9aJ_IEmZfoFe4I2NrvwCAKBbhQ8bQs5096QZkZ0tQb8S1SBXWT2VOfwtLKG0OOD_9c\")
The humidity in Houston attracts many types of spiders, (and all of them bite), but only two are considered deadly. The black widow is easy to recognize by the hourglass-shaped red marking on her back. (Yes, only the female is poisonous.) The brown recluse is tougher to spot, but it has a violin-shaped marking on its back and six eyes. Like most spiders, both of these find dark corners to hide and can live months without food. But they need water to survive, so it’s best to seal all cracks around leaking pipes avoid leaving standing water around.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/MAZ-qI2mSFV5IZUKQz_faGoOri4CZqPn9RwT7wYMS7vnQeUL3g-K_ESXEXwJUG2VYsEDZbiHZUOXSSmACFP3Txi0nkONLmV-QqsDZUR3WdWyFmz-sYMLuS1hSyqcncwNnhO2WrDF\")
Termites also love Houston’s wet conditions. These persistent pests do significant and costly damage to homes, buildings, and crops. Prevention is going to be your best friend and a termite’s worst enemy:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat infestations yourself or hire a pest control service.
\n\n\n\nIf any of these pests have checked in with no plans to check out, you may want to hire a professional exterminator. These experts can de-bug your house and help you keep them away for good.
\n\n\n\nInterested in more information about lawns and landscapes in Houston? Make sure to visit our Houston, TX lawn care page.
The big-hearted town of Peoria in the middle of Illinois has wide appeal. Sitting right on the banks of the Illinois River, Peoria has a picturesque backdrop that many cities can only dream of. When you find yourself putting down roots in a city that one national publication dubbed one of the Top 50 Best […]
\n","content":"\nThe big-hearted town of Peoria in the middle of Illinois has wide appeal. Sitting right on the banks of the Illinois River, Peoria has a picturesque backdrop that many cities can only dream of.
\n\n\n\nWhen you find yourself putting down roots in a city that one national publication dubbed one of the Top 50 Best Places to Live, you might as well embrace the area and landscape your property with native plants. To help you, we’ve compiled a list of the best native plants for Peoria and the surrounding areas.
\n\n\n\nIncluded in this article:
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Purple-Coneflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PumpkinSky / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPurple coneflower resembles daisies, but this native beauty has a large center cone that stands well above the dry, papery petals. It is the most popular type of coneflower grown and one of the first native wildflowers to jump into mainstream horticulture.
\n\n\n\nThis beautiful plant looks stunning when planted en masse and creates a soothing rustle when the papery petals brush up against one another in the breeze. Flowers appear between mid to late summer, and when deadheaded, purple coneflowers may gift you a second round of blooms before the season ends.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 2 to 5 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Medium green, rough texture
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full to part sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Fertile loam; tolerates clay if dry
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall (may need more during dry periods)
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Japanese beetles, leaf spot, aster yellows disease
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Cardinal](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Cardinal-Flower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: linnaeus / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe sensational cardinal flower blooms for about a month in late summer, displaying brilliant red flowers that attract hummingbirds and swallowtail butterflies to your garden. Plants get their common name from the bright red robes traditionally worn by Roman Catholic cardinals.
\n\n\n\nThese plants are excellent choices for wet areas in your yard. They naturally occur in wetlands and thrive in full sun and light shade. They aren’t long-lived perennial species, but they self-seed prolifically, so you’ll always have a cluster of cardinal flowers bringing color to your yard.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green,
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full to part sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Loamy, rich, moist soil
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Keep the soil consistently moist
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Snails, slugs
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Toxic to humans and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"Common](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Common-Milkweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: USFWS Mountain-Prairie / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nContrary to its name, milkweed isn’t considered a noxious weed anywhere in the United States. This tough wildflower is the only host plant for the endangered monarch butterfly, making it an essential aspect of native habitats.
\n\n\n\nMilkweeds were once widespread across the prairies of the Midwest, but habitat destruction has severely reduced the plant’s range and numbers. Thankfully, gardeners are increasingly adding them back into their landscapes. They are loved, of course, for bringing in the bold, beautiful monarchs but also appreciated for their fragrant, purplish-pink flowers that appear in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nHowever, be mindful that milkweed sap contains alkaloids that irritate everything except the monarch butterfly.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 2 to 5 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 24 to 30 inches
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Dark green with fine, soft hairs
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Well-draining
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall; may need more during dry periods
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Large or small milkweed bugs, swamp milkweed beetles, blue or red milkweed beetles, milkweed aphids, and furry milkweed tussock moth caterpillar
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Cause eye and skin irritations and are poisonous to pets when ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Black-Eyed-Susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susans are among the most easily recognized flowering perennials and a favorite of gardeners. These tough-as-nails plants also look like daisies, with their center discs in deep, rich hues and bright yellow to orangish, oblong petals.
\n\n\n\nAs members of the sunflower family, black-eyed Susans thrive in rocky, infertile soils where most other plants can’t survive. Between this, and their heat and drought tolerance, it’s no wonder you often see them blanketing roadside ditches and open fields across the country.
\n\n\n\nBe careful when planting them, though. They spread aggressively through underground stems called rhizomes and prolific self-sowing. Their spreading is excellent if you want to fill in a flowerbed, but it can be problematic when planted close to other plants.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 2 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Bright green with coarse hairs
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Well-drained, not too rich
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil dries out
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Aphids, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, aster yellows, Southern blight, downy mildew, rust
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/3912256151_865e2a4b51_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSwitchgrass is an important native prairie grass that grows well in any soil type and under any moisture level. Their low maintenance needs have given them solid standing as landscaping plants. Growing upwards of six feet tall, they work well as background plantings in flower beds, hedges, or privacy screens.
\n\n\n\nDifferent varieties offer you a variety of foliage colors. Switchgrass plants are available with reddish-tinged, steel-blue, or metallic blue-green foliage that takes on a golden glow come autumn. Seed heads are pinkish early in the season and fade into a reddish-brown to add even more interest to fall landscapes.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Perennial bunchgrass
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 3 to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Medium green with a prominent midrib
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Well-drained, not too rich
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week the first year, then only during dry periods
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Very few
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Purpletop\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Purpletop.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joanna Boisse / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPurpletop is a native warm-season ornamental bunchgrass. It grows individually or in tufts and frequently in ditch banks alongside the road. Come late summer, it puts out flower spikes with reddish-purple seed heads that bring rich color to the landscape into November. It’s often called grease grass; the seed heads are covered in an oily, sticky substance.
\n\n\n\nThis native grass does well in part shade and even in moist conditions, making purpletop a fantastic choice for growing under the canopy of larger trees or as a foundation plant against your home.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Perennial bunchgrass
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 3 to 5 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green, rough
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full sun to partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Adapted to all types
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week the first year, then only during dry periods
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Very few
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Bottlebrush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bottlebrush-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: I, SB Johnny / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBottlebrush is a cool-season grass that likes cooler temps and grows abundantly during the spring and fall. It’s one of the few native plants on this list that is shade-tolerant and prefers a wooded area over full sun. Plant it under your big oak trees, where it receives a little bit of dappled light to add tremendous interest and texture.
\n\n\n\nThe tall grass has a unique spike arrangement that sets atop bright green blades, making it easily recognizable. As its name states, the spikelets resemble a large-bristled brush used for cleaning bottles. Over time, bottlebrush grass reseeds itself to form small colonies of plants.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Cool-season perennial grass
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 2 to 5 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Blue-green to grey-green, mostly hairless
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Part shade to shade
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Loamy, well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week the first year, then only during dry periods
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Aphids, leaf spot
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Shooting](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Shooting-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: C T Johansson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nShooting star plants are a spring ephemeral—a plant that is in full glory in spring but then fades into the background—so they add glorious color to your early-season landscape. This charming native plant has pink, purple, or white flowers resembling shooting stars streaking across the night sky.
\n\n\n\nAlso known as prairie pointer, the shooting star used to grow abundantly through moist wooded areas or rocky slopes in cooler climates. Now it is frequently grown as a garden ornamental and, in 1993, received the Royal Horticulture Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 9 to 20 inches
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 9 to 12 inches
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Emerald to grayish green with a prominent midrib
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Partial shade, will tolerate full sun in cooler climates
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Rocky or sandy, well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about 1 inch of water per week when flowering, less during the summer
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Very few
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: none
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Prairie-Smoke.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Sturner from USA / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe prairie smoke plant is one of the earliest spring bloomers on the prairie, and it brings a delicate, unique look when planted in your yard. In late spring, each flowering stem bears clusters of nodding, feathery pink, maroon, or purple bell-shaped flowers in clusters of three to nine. Once fertilized, the nodding blooms transform into arrays of wispy pink, feathery blooms.
\n\n\n\nPrairie smoke forms a colorful ground cover resembling delicate puffs of smoke from your planting beds. Plants don’t like to be overcrowded by taller perennials, so give them at least 18-24 inches of space.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 6 to 18 inches
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 6 to 12 inches
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen, deeply cut margins
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Tolerant of types, as long as well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Needs about inch of water per week when flowering, less during the summer
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Root rot
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: None
\n\n\n\n![\"Great](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Great-Blue-Lobelia.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agnieszka Kwiecień, Nova / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGreat blue lobelia is perfect if you’re looking for a rough, hardy perennial that brings late summer color to your yard. This easy-to-grow native perennial blooms gorgeous, light icy-blue blooms in late summer, drawing in a crowd of bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
\n\n\n\nPlants thrive in moist garden spots and grow well in damp clay soils where other plants struggle. They will grow in sunny places if plenty of moisture is present. When grown in its favored spot of shaded, moist areas, great blue lobelia will gladly spread and multiply to bring you dozens of new plants each spring.
\n\n\n\nGrowth Habit: Herbaceous perennial
\n\n\n\nMature Height: 3 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nMature Width: 12 to 18 inches
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Medium green, somewhat coarse
\n\n\n\nSunlight Needs: Sun, part shade, shade
\n\n\n\nSoil Preferences: Clay, loam, sand
\n\n\n\nWater Requirements: Keep soil moist
\n\n\n\nDisease or Insect Problems: Snails, slugs
\n\n\n\nPotential Hazards: Toxic if ingested in large quantities
\n\n\n\nAll the plants mentioned above are native to Peoria and, in theory, should do well in your yard. However, it is crucial to consider some things when choosing plants for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nIs your yard in full sun, or are you planting in partial or full-shade spots?
\n\n\n\nAre you looking to plant in full sun, partial shade, or full shade? Or trying to find a plant that will do well in mixed conditions? You always want to match the sun exposure to the plant’s needs. A plant that needs full sun will struggle in the shade, and vice versa. Since Peoria has a varied climate and plenty of trees, this list contains a nice mix of plants that thrive in different conditions.
\n\n\n\nWhat kind of soil are you working with?
\n\n\n\nLike sun exposure, it’s also critical to consider the soil in your landscape. The soil type directly affects water retention and drainage. It wouldn’t be wise to put a plant needing well-draining soil in a planting spot with heavy clay that holds water. You must also pay special attention to the specific planting area, as your yard can have anomalies with slightly different soil textures.
\n\n\n\nWhat size space are you working with?
\n\n\n\nIt’s always a challenge when buying new plants because they tend to look so small for the space you’re working with. Remember, though, you should always consider a plant’s mature size, not how big it is, when you purchase it. Over time that plant will grow, and you don’t want to buy something that will be too large for the space after a few years.
\n\n\n\nWhen buying native plants to add to your landscape, it’s always helpful if you can buy them locally. Not only does it support local businesses, but these plants are also usually propagated from parents acclimated to your climate, so they are better equipped to survive your seasons.
\n\n\n\nDreaming of a yard filled with native plants but overwhelmed with choices or trying to figure out what’s best for your yard? Reach out to our Peoria lawn care pros! Our experts are ready and looking forward to helping you make your landscape dreams come true.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Pettingill-Morron House / Mmikhailova / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"Best Native Plants for Peoria, Il","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/1789c/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg","srcSet":"/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/107df/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg 320w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/293e9/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg 500w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/f2cbb/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg 800w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/1789c/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg 960w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/c26c2/Pettingill-Morron-House.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/1dd6e/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/67b76/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp 320w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/8df11/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp 500w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/98a65/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp 800w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/1dd6e/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp 960w,\n/static/428c910e7ea0b6eeb944d31ce69ac369/3cc96/Pettingill-Morron-House.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Native Plants for Peoria","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Looking for low-maintenance plants for your Peoria landscape? We’ve pulled together a list of the best native plants for your area."}}},{"node":{"id":"d16e2d6b-56c8-59e2-83f4-27ffd9dd8cd8","slug":"benefits-composting-lawn","path":"/lawn-care/benefits-composting-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Ruma Akter","id":"b4adb332-066f-5309-a11a-ada9d71b73f7","path":"/author/opushaon10/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ebb2426fcf700731e458d89422adc475?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 27th, 2019","excerpt":"Looking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer. You may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too. What Is Compost? Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer.
\n\n\n\nYou may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7siWPz9hIYZNaFizVvrLv1ilgO2v5ZEN6q_jZTkH9LyzmiTKBQ-wplgwMSshwyJel0FpzwSEjtWWWzWiVQY7qEuHWGV0kuQrn-qt3FS5grSQfBs4xY62AB-ltZieVNlrBe1SUz3h\")
Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps and yard waste (grass clippings, raked leaves, and remnants of garden plants) make up most compost. Compost also happens on its own in nature with fallen leaves, twigs, and branches. By adding fruit and vegetable scraps, you put back into the soil the ingredients it needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\nFood products that don’t compost well include tea bags (the tea residue works well but only if you remove the bag) and highly acidic citrus fruits and tomatoes (they may kill the good bacteria that break down the compost). Peelings from other fruits and vegetables are also excellent for the compost bin (remove the small paper stickers on them).
\n\n\n\nWhat you don’t want in your compost? Weeds. The weed seeds will spread and regrow in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLawns are dormant in winter, but it’s still a good time for maintenance. Composting supports the root system during dormancy. The organic matter helps the soil retain water, making it more available to the grass roots. Nutrients that would otherwise wash away, (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), make their way down to the roots. The healthier your lawn’s roots are, the deeper they grow and spread under your yard. This holds the soil together and helps it resist wind and water.
\n\n\n\nWith healthier roots created by composting comes healthier soil. The primary nutrients are joined by micronutrients like zinc, iron, copper, and manganese. The fertilizer you buy doesn’t always have these components. But compost breaks down slowly, so it acts as a slow-release fertilizer. The more diverse the ingredients in the compost, the more different types of nutrients sink into the soil. The decomposed compost (also called humus), will also neutralize both acidic and alkaline soils, creating pH levels that enable your grass to absorb the nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn helps break up compacted soil. But compost creates clusters of particles, called aggregates, for a stronger soil structure. These bundles have air channels and tiny holes that keep in water, nutrients, and air. There are basically three types of soil, and organic matter affects each one in different ways.
\n\n\n\nThis dense, heavy soil can be tough to work with. But when maintained, it’s one of the best soils for lawns and gardens. Adding organic matter like pine bark and finely ground leaves creates better soil structure. It also gets rid of drainage problems and compacted soil. Start with 3 to 6 inches of compost on your topsoil and work it down into the ground about ten inches over time. As the matter decomposes, it improves the quality of clay soil.
\n\n\n\nSandy soil is dry with large, coarse particles and a lot of air pockets, so it doesn’t need aeration. It’s also not ideal for growing things because all that space lets water drain before it can provide moisture to plant roots. Fertilizer is ineffective because it washes away before doing any good. Horticulture Agent Charlotte Glen of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension says, “Because they naturally lack nutrients and cannot store nutrients provided by fertilizers, plants growing in sandy sites often show nutrient deficiency symptoms like stunting, yellow leaves, and sparse flowering or poor fruit production.”
\n\n\n\nThe good news is that sand is lightweight and porous and easy to work with. This type of soil needs 3 to 4 inches of compost as topsoil. Till it deep into the ground. Then, in the future, let grass clippings fall onto the yard when mowing. The clippings add to the compost.
\n\n\n\nThis is the best type of soil for growing plants and grass. It’s a mix of equal parts clay, sand, and silt (sediment deposited by running water). While loamy soil already provides excellent growing conditions, you can improve any soil with compost. Do this once a year to lower its pH to a level that works well with grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/fXTp3fOUPxxEJfrU4ABu64j_Zld8HZGr_VZc6ZpQOmTIkGU2ukwTl22wTLSETZwBt11kHl7TGBemnJ5-skvzmyBYzYT8xgSiYPixheaoIRMEWt_nrohyBSv7zGXMzLbyIKHk1BcF\")
Healthy turf is about 50% air, held in pockets and spaces in the soil. When that soil is compacted, moisture and nutrients don’t filter down to the plant’s roots as well as they should. Compost creates more accommodating surroundings by loosening the soil, creating natural energy.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you know if your soil is compacted?
\n\n\n\nWorking organic matter into the ground is the best way to fight compaction. For extreme cases, you may need to use up to 50% compost. This will also help decompose thatch buildup in the fall. Too much thatch causes the root system under your lawn to choke itself.
\n\n\n\nPerhaps the best perk from composting is how it benefits the environment. By putting your vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and other kitchen scraps in a compost pile, you’re keeping it out of landfills. You also eliminate the need for fertilizing. Make sure the organic matter stays damp, and it will keep insects away, negating the need for insecticide. And the air pockets created in the soil will hold more water, meaning you won’t need to water as often.
\n\n\n\nComposting is a win-win in many ways, but poor quality soil with too much clay or sand needs a little more work. After spreading more than an inch of compost over the yard, spray the grass blades with liquid nitrogen to speed up decomposition. Healthy lawns take some work but in the long run, are worth it!
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: normanack, CC 2.0
\n","title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.336116910229645,"src":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/107df/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/293e9/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/f2cbb/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1789c/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/356ef/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/67b76/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 320w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/8df11/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 500w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/98a65/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 800w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/1dd6e/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 960w,\n/static/ec62ef777e3d749b2ee58e20601924c5/93f70/1280px-Compost-dirt-wikimedia.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Benefits of Composting for Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"8fe9c016-eb84-5863-99ed-1575093a5df1","slug":"29-pictures-of-life-in-the-valley-of-the-sun","path":"/lawn-care/az/phoenix/29-pictures-of-life-in-the-valley-of-the-sun/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"7fc32475-4c73-58a8-996f-8b8d79ba2450","name":"Arizona","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"90f74182-5f0d-5dd3-8d32-576a5a21d01d","name":"Phoenix","count":12,"path":"/category/lawn-care/az/phoenix/"}],"date":"April 27th, 2019","excerpt":"Don’t move to Phoenix, AZ unless you love sunny days. Phoenix averages at least 300 days of sun every year, hence the nickname The Valley of the Sun. All those sunny days gives residents the opportunity to get out and enjoy nature or to grow some fantastic gardens. Sun is essential for happy living. Not […]
\n","content":"\nDon’t move to Phoenix, AZ unless you love sunny days. Phoenix averages at least 300 days of sun every year, hence the nickname The Valley of the Sun. All those sunny days gives residents the opportunity to get out and enjoy nature or to grow some fantastic gardens. Sun is essential for happy living.
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Have questions about lawn care? Visit our Phoenix, AZ lawn care page for more information.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: AZDew
\n","title":"29 Pictures of Life in The Valley of the Sun","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7853403141361257,"src":"/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/1789c/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg","srcSet":"/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/107df/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg 320w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/293e9/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg 500w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/f2cbb/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg 800w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/1789c/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg 960w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/8e61a/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.jpg 1023w","srcWebp":"/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/1dd6e/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/67b76/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp 320w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/8df11/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp 500w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/98a65/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp 800w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/1dd6e/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp 960w,\n/static/fc15f02bf2d92d24c37f4f6583062c2b/0cf9f/phoenix-arizona-skyline-photos-post.webp 1023w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"29 Pictures of Life in The Valley of the Sun | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"5386c13e-97ec-5bf2-abeb-b39dd9f2f4e5","slug":"worst-backyard-pests-in-cincinnati-and-how-to-control-them","path":"/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/worst-backyard-pests-in-cincinnati-and-how-to-control-them/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jay Keaton is a lawn care specialist who focuses on organic pest control. His yard is filled with chrysanthemums, basil, borage, marigolds and other plants that repel bugs.","name":"Jay Keaton","id":"aa1543ca-6fab-5e4b-bd0c-12f87aa13f51","path":"/author/jay-keaton/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6abb3b96ee2a6dcce741112f06af213b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"cd94a504-1dfc-52f0-ae16-ea162e4c1f6a","name":"Cincinnati","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/cincinnati/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f8c37b8-25e8-5e78-8d84-fa2b0ffd84d3","name":"Ohio","count":23,"path":"/category/lawn-care/oh/"}],"date":"August 12th, 2019","excerpt":"The last thing you want to see is damage caused by annoying backyard pests. Here are a few of the worst in Cincinnati, along with tips on how to control them.
\n","content":"\nYou’ve worked hard and invested time and money to have a beautiful lawn and garden. The last thing you want to see is damage caused by annoying backyard pests. Here are a few of the worst in Cincinnati, along with some tips on how to control them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sTj6Eg1yn9nHAv_-kMu4YQ67rmYRw1XWpjuGvJEYDrnpJ9mjRdiA1cb1Wf4mvLbYQSr0aXEOcTx4GD2o1ijal2B3Vu5Y_vVYV27bO_d0nYPXTCpRgoqzbuvUxGMo8-2C2fAXZJJZ\")
Billbugs are grayish-black and have a snout or “bill” on their forehead. Adults live in the thatch layer of your lawn and can do some damage, but the larvae are far worse. Adult females lay their eggs in lawns in June. Within a few weeks, the eggs hatch and the larvae begin feasting on the grass as they move to the soil. You’ll start to see the damage in July or August, with discolored grass and brown patches. You also can easily pull up the grass in infested areas.
\n\n\n\nPrevention can start with varieties of billbug-resistant turf. You can use insecticides to kill the adults in May before they lay their eggs. Billbugs are harder to control when they reach the larval stage, but some newer insecticides have proven effective.
\n\n\n\nNot only do chinch bugs eat your grass; they inject it with their toxic saliva which kills it. The damage shows up as yellow patches in your lawn that eventually turn brown. Chinch bugs love dry grass, so watering your lawn properly can help keep them away. Keeping your grass longer can also help, as can aerating in the spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/vNM5UWNMh4tyNPVmLbp7UhdQjA5cNEumKHPpyGyYnRG4y6aB0XIytq_Sdjmg-lrIOxail0QOrri1CQMu1UrOa2urZtAOfE9U_aX4AN1PkgVluduPqPG3tfpMtJuKeYrtrxszDSqM\")
These pests annoy you, your pets, and even the squirrels in your yard. Fleas are most active in the summer and can inflict painful bites. Mowing the lawn and getting rid of tall overgrown weeds where fleas like to live can help. You can spray pesticide, but for a nontoxic alternative try nematodes. These small wormlike critters eat fleas in their pupae, larvae and pre-adult forms.
\n\n\n\nMosquitoes can make a backyard barbecue truly miserable. They’re annoying and often deadly since they can also spread disease. Females need water sources to lay their eggs, so one way to control them is to remove standing water from your property. Citronella candles, yellow light bulbs and insect repellent can also help. You can also try mosquito repelling plants such as chrysanthemums, basil, lavender, and marigolds.
\n\n\n\nThis pest does its damage in its larval or caterpillar stage. You’ll first notice lawn damage in the spring when larvae start eating the grass. As the larvae get larger you’ll start noticing larger brown spots in your lawn, often near driveways and curbs. Check for sod webworms by digging in the thatch layer, looking for their silk-lined tunnels. To get rid of them, you need to get rid of the larvae, not the adult moths. If you’re using a pesticide, choose one labeled for effectiveness against them. The larvae feed at night so it’s best to spray in the late afternoon.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs are the larval stage of several types of beetles, including Japanese and chafer beetles. They attack the roots of your grass, which causes yellow then brown patches. The turf becomes spongy and rolls back like carpet because the roots are gone. Adult females lay their eggs in mid-July, and the larvae can start feeding in August. They move deeper into the soil to survive the winter, move back to the surface in spring to pupate into adults. Then the cycle begins again. Pesticides can help get rid of them from July to mid-September, but you should only treat the affected area and not your entire lawn. Natural alternatives include nematodes (see above) or milky spore.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining a healthy lawn is one of the best ways to prevent insect infestation. If you’re replacing or planting new grass, consider perennial ryegrass. This variety stands up well to kids and pets and contains endophytes, a fungus that repels ground-feeding insects. It won’t get rid of all the bugs but will help control the worst backyard pests in Cincinnati.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Cincinnati? Visit our Cincinnati Lawn Care page.
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