![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/4S-DCXhofFHBaDgbXOWqsRPRmMSnhZqLGHGmXAAMHV15iaGXKjQRchnMgJeTxS4u7m7VB8PnqphYL1Oa1gLlySGuiTPS4SjiMcC9aYQcQNBqtqpvlRIlPCueccRwDMfuXnPTG6-d\")
If you’ve got a yard, you’re likely spending some time taking care of it. After all your hard work, it can be frustrating to discover unsightly lawn problems. This may be small comfort, but you’re far from alone. The best way to avoid lawn problems is to grow and maintain a healthy lawn. Start by […]
\n","content":"\nIf you’ve got a yard, you’re likely spending some time taking care of it. After all your hard work, it can be frustrating to discover unsightly lawn problems. This may be small comfort, but you’re far from alone.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to avoid lawn problems is to grow and maintain a healthy lawn. Start by choosing a grass type that will grow well in your area. That alone will give your lawn the best chance against pests, weeds and lawn disease. Read on to learn more about the most common problems that may be plaguing your lawn.
\n\n\n\nBrown patch disease happens most frequently during hot, humid summer months. The University of Massachusetts Extension says “Brown patch caused by Rhizoctonia solani is the most widespread of all turf diseases occurring throughout the world and attacking all known turfgrasses.” You’ll notice large irregular circles of brown grass. Tall fescue and ryegrass are particularly susceptible.
\n\n\n\nRust is a fungal disease caused by fungal spores. It leaves yellow-orange spots with a powdery residue in your grass. The spores prey on under-watered and over-watered lawns. They’ll also attack lawns that are lacking in key nutrients like nitrogen.
\n\n\n\nSnow mold develops under snow that sits on your lawn for extended periods. There are two types: pink snow mold and gray snow mold. It appears in early spring when the snow melts as gray or pink-hued patches of white. Pink snow mold can also grow during cool, wet weather without any snow. Prevent snow mold by gradually cutting the grass shorter ahead of winter, and by not leaving a thick layer of leaves on your lawn over the winter. A preventative fungicide may also help.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot shows up as patches of silver-dollar sized brown patches in your lawn. It’s caused by a fungus and is very common on golf courses and recreational turf fields. It affects cool and warm-season grasses and can appear anywhere from late spring to late fall. It thrives in warm, humid conditions and after long periods of wet weather.
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs are beetle larvae and larvae of other types of insects. White grubs feed on grass roots, causing irregular brown spots in your yard. You’ll notice this damage most often in the fall.
\n\n\n\nYou can tell you have an infestation if you can pull up the dead turf like a rug, revealing the C-shaped white larvae on top of the soil. You may also notice birds on your lawn because they love to feast on the grubs. Other animals are attracted to the scent, including raccoons, opossums, moles, and skunks. They’ll dig up your yard to get to the grubs, so lawn damage is another sign you may have an infestation.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/wyUrxwMg673hhLE8s8NmrkONFoFXHp-075zupE9zNyFdaCTv4UeE2mcDY9Vre23NJcJ8QfjPmdJ23PfpJK8_8Cz7O-ypVhff8FFeonNvC6sUNpFqeOYFQCLaPheyp3vCUubbjCPv\")
Weeds may be the king of lawn problems, or at least one of the most common. Weeds like crabgrass and dandelions will take over your yard if given the chance, especially if your lawn isn’t healthy. To avoid this, use good lawn care practices. These include regular mowing with a sharp blade and adequate watering for your grass type. To conserve water, supplement rainfall with a regular watering schedule. Weeds will have a harder time taking hold in a thick, healthy lawn with a healthy root system.
\n\n\n\nThese problems show up for many different reasons. These include foot traffic, lawn diseases, compacted soil or broken or badly adjusted sprinklers. Aerating once a year can help with compacted soil and in the prevention of lawn diseases. Test sprinklers to see if you need to adjust or replace them. In areas with high foot traffic, consider replacing the grass with a pathway using rocks, pavers or wood chips. You could also hardscape the area rather than continually reseeding or replacing the turf.
\n\n\n\nDog urine contains high amounts of nitrogen which can burn your grass and cause it to turn brown. Dark green grass can sometimes ring the brown patches. Train your dog to take care of business in one part of your yard. Consider re-planting damaged grass with a urine-resistant grass like tall fescue or ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nRecognizing these common lawn problems is the first step in fixing them. Preventing these problems before they start is even better. Regular mowing, watering, and lawn care can go a long way in keeping these unwelcome issues off your lawn.
Main image credit: Veracious Rey, CC by-SA 3.0
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\n","content":"\nAs the crisp autumn air settles in, South Carolina homeowners are preparing for a season of pumpkin patches, football games, and cozy nights by the fire. But amidst the fall festivities, it’s easy to neglect the TLC your lawn needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\nProper fall lawn care is not only crucial for maintaining a beautiful yard, but it also sets the foundation for healthy growth come springtime. With that in mind, let this comprehensive fall lawn care checklist for South Carolina guide you. From fertilization to aeration, following these steps will ensure a lush, healthy lawn year-round.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFall is a crucial time for lawn care, and neglecting it could lead to dire consequences for your yard come spring. While many people assume that lawn care is a summer activity, the cooler temperatures and more relaxed growth patterns of fall create an optimal environment for certain lawn care practices.
\n\n\n\nFollow these steps to ensure your grassroots grow strong and healthy to withstand the winter months and lead to more vibrant growth in the spring:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaves](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/rsz_1yard_cleanup-1024x683.jpg\")
Although the fall foliage can be a picturesque sight, you should never leave the fallen, dry leaves strewn all over the place. While the thought of raking and removing leaves from your yard may make you cringe, it’s a crucial step in maintaining a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe following reasons will make you pick up your rake from the shed as soon as possible:
\n\n\n\nFall yard cleanup is an opportunity to inspect your lawn for any signs of damage or disease. By clearing away debris and examining your lawn closely, you can catch any potential issues before they become severe.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
South Carolina’s unique climate and soil composition require a tailored approach to lawn care. That’s why soil testing is an essential part of maintaining a healthy lawn – especially in the fall. It’s the perfect time for soil testing because it provides an opportunity to correct any imbalances before winter dormancy.
\n\n\n\nTesting your soil can reveal nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium, that could be hindering your grass’s growth. Additionally, it can determine the soil’s pH level, which is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. If your soil’s pH is too low or too high, it can impact the soil’s ability to absorb nutrients, causing issues for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere’s the ideal pH range for the most common grass types in South Carolina:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Carpetgrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| St. Augustinegrass | 6.0 – 7.5 |
| Tall fescue | 5.5 – 7.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
Homeowners in South Carolina can take advantage of Clemson University’s affordable soil testing services to analyze their soil composition and determine the necessary amendments for optimal lawn nourishment. The cost for soil analysis is budget-friendly, with prices ranging from $10 or less per sample.
\n\n\n\nSoil can become compacted over time due to foot traffic, lawn equipment, and other factors. Compacted soil makes it difficult for grass roots to grow, leading to a patchy and unhealthy lawn. Aeration can alleviate soil compaction, allowing for better water and nutrient absorption and promoting stronger root growth.
\n\n\n\nFall is also the ideal time to aerate your lawn, as the weather is cooler and rainfall is more frequent. Doing so can help prepare it for the winter months. With improved water and nutrient absorption, your grass will be better equipped to handle the colder temperatures and potential droughts winter can bring.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, aeration allows for better seed-to-soil contact when overseeding, which can help fill in any thin or bare patches in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nVarious types of aeration techniques can be done in South Carolina, depending on the specific needs of your lawn:
\n\n\n\nA lawn care professional can assess your lawn’s needs and recommend the best type of aeration for optimal results.
\n\n\n\nAs the weather cools down in South Carolina, you must adjust your lawn care routine to reflect the changing seasons. One key adjustment to make is cutting back on watering your lawn. While it’s important to maintain adequate soil moisture for healthy grass growth, overwatering in the fall can actually do more harm than good.
\n\n\n\nFirst, excess water can lead to the growth of fungus and other harmful organisms that can damage your lawn. Additionally, overwatering can prevent your grass from properly preparing for winter dormancy, leaving it more vulnerable to damage from cold temperatures and frost.
\n\n\n\nWhile you should keep watering, gradually reduce your lawn’s watering schedule in the fall, allowing the grass to gradually adjust to the changing weather conditions. Remember, your lawn only needs 1 inch of water per week. This way, you can ensure that your lawn is well-prepared for winter and can bounce back in the spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"Manual](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Manual-Lawn-Mower.jpg\")
Homeowners should take the opportunity to mow their grasses short in the fall. While this may seem counterintuitive to promoting growth and health, it is actually an essential step to preparing your lawn for the winter months.
\n\n\n\nDuring fall, grass growth slows down and the plant’s focus shifts from above-ground growth to root development. By mowing your grass short, you encourage root growth and provide better access to nutrients and water. This helps to build a stronger, more resilient root system that can better withstand the harsh winter weather.
\n\n\n\nTo properly mow your lawn in the fall, adjust your mower’s blades to a lower setting and gradually reduce the height of the grass over several mowings. It is recommended to keep the grass height around 2 inches for the final mowing of the season.
\n\n\n\nHere are the suggested mowing heights for the popular warm-season and cool-season grass types in South Carolina:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Carpetgrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 – 2 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass | 2.5 – 4 inches |
| Tall fescue | 2 – 4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 – 2.5 inches |
As the temperatures drop and the growing season comes to an end, you should take advantage of the fall season to apply soil amendments to your lawn. Soil amendments are essential in promoting healthy lawn growth, as they improve the soil structure, fertility, and overall health.
\n\n\n\nAdding soil amendments, such as compost, lime, and organic matter, in the fall will give the soil enough time to absorb and process the nutrients before winter sets in, helping improve the soil’s health and fertility.
\n\n\n\nPlus, applying soil amendments in the fall can help reduce soil erosion and improve water retention, which is essential during the winter months. The added nutrients from the amendments will help the lawn better withstand winter stress and prepare it for the growing season ahead.
\n\n\n\n![\"Weed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Fall is a crucial time to control and prevent weeds on your lawn. Weeds can rob your grass of the nutrients and moisture it needs to thrive, leading to a thin, patchy lawn come spring. In fact, some weed species can spread rapidly and crowd out your desirable turfgrass, creating an unsightly mess.
\n\n\n\nPrevent weeds from taking over your lawn by applying pre-emergent herbicides in the fall. These herbicides create a barrier in the soil that stops weed seeds from germinating and growing. Additionally, post-emergent herbicides can be used to kill any existing weeds in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhile you may be tempted to put off weed control until next spring, tackling the problem now will save you time, effort, and money in the long run. With the right prevention and control strategies in place, your lawn will be healthier, more beautiful, and more enjoyable come next year.
\n\n\n\nPay attention to any signs of lawn diseases in your yard. Dollar spot and brown patch are common culprits that can wreak havoc on your lawn during this time of year. These diseases thrive in the warm and humid environment created by the cool fall temperatures and heavy morning dew.
\n\n\n\nTreating these diseases in the fall is crucial as they can easily survive the winter and wreak havoc on your lawn come springtime. Additionally, early treatment can prevent the diseases from spreading to healthy grass, allowing your lawn to recover and grow lush and green next season.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is a fungal lawn disease that emerges due to excessive dew on the grass. It is characterized by small, silver-dollar-sized yellow spots on turfgrasses like bermudagrass. Adopting proper lawn management techniques can usually prevent or treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch (large patch) is a fungal disease that occurs primarily in centipedegrass and Zoysiagrass, resulting in circular patterns of yellowing grass. To prevent and treat brown patch, follow these steps:
\n\n\n\nOne of the most important lawn tasks to prioritize in the fall is fertilization. Applying lawn fertilizer during this time can provide your lawn with the essential nutrients needed to recover from the stress of summer, survive the harsh winter, and thrive in the spring.
\n\n\n\nThe cooler temperatures in the fall create an ideal environment for grass to absorb nutrients and develop strong roots. Your grass roots will continue to grow during this time and will retain the provided nutrients until spring. So you should fertilize at least once before the temperature drops – between late September and early November.
\n\n\n\nConsider using a pelletized fertilizer with suitable ratios of deficient nutrients in your soil. Many lawn care professionals offer customized fertilizer plans based on soil tests and specific lawn needs. Alternatively, opt for an organic and all-natural fertilizer, such as aged compost or grass clippings.
\n\n\n\nThe ratio of N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) will vary depending on the needs of your lawn. For example, a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content may be recommended for lawns that need to promote growth, while a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content may be recommended for lawns that need to improve root development.
\n\n\n\nBy taking a soil test and analyzing the nutrient levels in your soil, you can determine the ideal N-P-K ratio for your lawn and choose a fertilizer that meets those specific needs.
\n\n\n\nFall is also the time to start thinking about winterizing the cold-sensitive plants on your lawn to ensure they survive the harsh winter months. Do the following to ensure they make it through the winter and come back strong in the spring:
\n\n\n\n![\"Fungal](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Lawn-Pest.jpg\")
Lawn pests, like chinch bugs and grubs, can still cause damage during the fall months. And without proper prevention, they can continue to wreak havoc on your lawn throughout winter and into spring.
\n\n\n\nActing early in the fall to prevent lawn pests is crucial because once an infestation has taken hold, it can be difficult to control. In addition to causing unsightly damage to your lawn, pests also can attract other unwanted visitors, such as birds and rodents. These pests can further damage your lawn and may even spread disease.
\n\n\n\nTo prevent lawn pests in the fall, regularly inspect your lawn for signs of damage, such as yellow or brown patches. You should consider applying a preventive insecticide to your lawn to kill off any larvae or eggs that may be present.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding your lawn in the fall is a great way to improve the density and appearance of your grass. For South Carolina, you can use cool-season grasses, like tall fescue, for overseeding. These grasses will thrive in the cooler temperatures of fall and spring while your warm-season grasses are dormant.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to overseed your South Carolina lawn is between mid-September and mid-October. During this time, the soil temperature is still warm enough to allow for good seed germination, while the cooler air temperature helps create ideal conditions for grass growth. Additionally, overseeding in the fall allows new grass to establish roots before winter arrives, giving it a head start for growth in the spring.
\n\n\n\nBefore overseeding, you must prepare the lawn properly. Mow your grass to a short height and remove debris and thatch. Aeration can be beneficial to loosen compacted soil and provide space for new seeds to germinate. After seeding, water the lawn regularly to keep the soil moist (not muddy or saturated) until the fresh grass has become established.
\n\n\n\nYes, there are several ways to tell if your grass is dormant rather than dead. One sign is that the blades of dormant grass will look thin and brittle and still have a greenish hue (albeit a faded one), while dead grass will be brown or gray.
Another way to distinguish dormant grass is by looking at the roots. If the roots are still firm and white, your grass is likely dormant. You also can try watering the grass and giving it some time to see if it begins to regrow. If it does, it was likely just dormant.
For warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass, the growing season usually ends in late September or early October. As such, it’s recommended to stop mowing once the grass stops growing or slows down significantly. Otherwise, cutting too short during this time can damage the roots and make it harder for the grass to bounce back the following spring.
For cool-season grasses like tall fescue, the growing season usually extends throughout the fall and winter months, with the grass continuing to grow until the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. So you may have to stop mowing your cool-season grass as early as November to as late as January.
A fertilizer that’s high in potassium and nitrogen but low in phosphorus is recommended for fall application. This is because potassium helps improve the cold tolerance and disease resistance of the grass, while nitrogen promotes root growth and overall health.
As the leaves begin to fall and temperatures start to drop in South Carolina, it’s time to start thinking about your lawn care routine. The cooler temperatures and relaxed growth patterns create the perfect conditions for certain lawn care practices that can help ensure your lawn is well-prepared for the harsh winter months and primed for a lush green-up in the spring.
Before putting up Halloween decorations on your lawn, reach out to a lawn care pro to give your lawn the best care possible. Regardless if you live in Columbia, Rock Hill, or near the beach in Charleston, Mount Pleasant, or Myrtle Beach, these professionals can help maintain your lawn so you don’t have to.
Main Photo by: don cload / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
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\n","content":"\nWant to help save the earth? Try starting with your patch of the planet: your lawn. Eco-friendly lawn care is easier than you think, and it can make a big difference for the environment.
\n\n\n\nOne option for an eco-friendly lawn is to reduce its size. Replace grass with native, drought-tolerant plants in areas where foot traffic is low. Do this in areas where you always have to replace the sod as well. You’ll save time and money with native plants because they’re accustomed to the weather and soil conditions in your area. They need less water, fertilizer, and maintenance than plants from other locales.
\n\n\n\nYou can also reduce the size of your lawn by replacing it with ground cover. These low growing, perennial plants can be an attractive option to thirsty, high maintenance turf. Exercise caution when choosing ground covers, because some of them spread aggressively and are considered invasive species. Xeriscaping uses native plants and ground covers to reduce the amount of turf in a yard. It also helps cut down on the number of weeds in your yard without using harmful chemicals. Many lawn care services will help you design a xeriscape plan and install it for you.
\n\n\n\nIf you have to fertilize, choose a slow-release, organic lawn fertilizer. Follow directions on the label and use only what you need. Do not apply lawn fertilizer when it’s supposed to rain in the next 24 hours. This will keep it from washing away and ending up in groundwater, and sewers. Collect any lawn clippings from hard surfaces like sidewalks and driveways. This will prevent fertilizer on the clippings from washing into storm drains and sewers and into water sources. Instead of using chemical fertilizers, compost your yard waste, or leave grass clippings on your grass to act as a natural mulch and fertilizer. You’ll actually save money by using fewer lawn care products.
\n\n\n\nLeaving your grass longer will make the grass stronger and help shade the soil. This can help with weed control in several ways. Less sun on the soil will make it harder for weeds to take hold, and a healthy lawn will crowd out dandelions and other weeds. Longer grass can also help the root system grow deeper, which can help prevent erosion and runoff.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G29QpOsDA7-ThVRjRAht7kSsBSu1YT-jSv7S8QzlYVT5uIJwTNgYZy4YbVd0xs6757IrefcbxZQUEe8fEoAyGwo8OuN53hOQ2FoEs6R3NmfIQC2x0t6V8T_5yd7X3u6laYm2SleP\")
Get “reel” serious about cutting down your carbon footprint with a reel mower. These mowers are quieter, lighter, and provide a more environmentally friendly way of cutting the grass than gas mowers. They’re also gentler on your grass and will leave fine clippings behind. Those clippings are good mulch for your lawn and return important nutrients to the soil. Newer models have come a long way from the ones your grandparents used. Reel mowers are a good option if you’ve got a half-acre lawn or smaller.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re not ready for muscle-powered lawn mowing, consider switching to an electric mower. There are corded and battery-powered models. Both will cut the polluting emissions of their gas-powered counterparts. Another option is to use a mulching mower or install a mulching blade on your current mower. These mowers and blades cut the grass clippings into small pieces that will fall to the soil surface. Microorganisms in the soil break them down, releasing nutrients into the soil.
\n\n\n\nSave water by watering only when your lawn needs it. If you have an automatic irrigation system, turn off the sprinklers when it’s raining and skip watering if it has rained recently or if rain is in the forecast. Consider a smart sprinkler system to track weather and soil conditions. It’ll adjust your watering schedule, conserve water, and save you money on your water bill. Direct downspouts from your rain gutters to water your lawn and garden. If your community allows it, use rain barrels to collect rainwater to use on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIt’s no secret that pesticides and chemical weed killers are bad for the environment. Biopesticides are an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic formulas. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says, “Biopesticides include naturally occurring substances that control pests (biochemical pesticides), microorganisms that control pests (microbial pesticides), and pesticidal substances produced by plants containing added genetic material (plant-incorporated protectants) or PIPs.” You can also find organic weed killers or make your own.
\n\n\n\nUse these lawn care tips to help you create and maintain an eco-friendly lawn. By choosing organic products and keeping a healthy lawn, you can have a green lawn and a green planet.
\n","title":"Eco-friendly Lawn Care","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/1789c/pixabay-green-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/107df/pixabay-green-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/293e9/pixabay-green-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/f2cbb/pixabay-green-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/1789c/pixabay-green-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/4fb49/pixabay-green-grass.jpg 1920w","srcWebp":"/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/1dd6e/pixabay-green-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/67b76/pixabay-green-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/8df11/pixabay-green-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/98a65/pixabay-green-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/1dd6e/pixabay-green-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/16dcf6fc943142efbe6eb155ffed840d/62477/pixabay-green-grass.webp 1920w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Eco-friendly Lawn Care | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"f3cedee9-3f12-5780-b5e8-eb8974ca3926","slug":"diy-hydroseeding","path":"/blog/diy-hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Are you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY […]
\n","content":"\nAre you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated. Let’s go over the steps.
\n\n\nAlso called hydraulic mulch seeding, hydroseeding is simply the process of seeding with a slurry mixture of seeds, water, mulch, and fertilizer. It has a slew of benefits, such as faster seed germination and a more uniform look.
\n\n\n\nThe slurry is sprayed with hydroseeding equipment or a pump. You can also buy a do-it-yourself hydroseeding kit that comes with the slurry ingredients and its own sprayer.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou need the following tools and materials for your hydroseeding project:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe very first step is planning out the specifics of your hydroseed slurry: the types of seeds you want to plant and the mulch that you’ll be using.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to seed grass types that match your area’s climate: cool-season grasses for the North and warm-season grasses down South. With hydroseeding, you can plant multiple types of grass instead of just one. Some people blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue, for example.
\n\n\n\nThere are many types of mulch that homeowners can use in their hydroseed slurries. Each one has its own pros and cons. Here are some of these mulch types:
\n\n\n\nFinding out the condition of your soil before you plant new seeds is a good move; it will tell you if the soil needs any amendments to ensure the most optimal growing conditions for your new grass. A soil test — either from a lab or from a home testing kit — will tell you your soil’s pH level and what nutrients it has.
\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. You can add lime if your soil is too acidic; add sulfur if it’s too alkaline. Any number outside of this pH range can cause your grass to grow poorly or even die.
\n\n\n\nUsing the soil test results, you can also determine what fertilizer to add to your hydroseed slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow it’s time to prepare your lawn for hydroseeding. The first step is clearing your lawn, as hydroseeding is most successful when applied to bare soil. Clear your lawn of existing grass (dead or alive), old plants, weeds, rocks, tools, toys, and other debris.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNext, you should mark any sprinkler heads around your lawn. This is especially important if you’re lugging around a heavy hydroseeding machine.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a sprinkler system but want to install one, you should do it while you’re prepping your lawn and before spraying the slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grading](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Grading-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JulNichols / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrading the soil is simply the process of adjusting its slope to prevent rainwater and runoff from getting to your house and other structures. When grading soil, it also gets leveled.
\n\n\n\nTo prepare your lawn for hydroseeding, grade your soil 2 ½ to 3 inches below the final grade you want it to be. The final grade is how high you want your lawn to be. Afterward, fill in holes and level your lawn with a rake and/or a yard leveler.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe next step is adding your soil additives: topsoil, compost, and sulfur or lime (if needed). The first two components stimulate healthy grass growth mainly because they supply your growing grass with nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAdd enough topsoil and compost so that it adds about 3 inches to your lawn’s grade. Then, churn it into the existing soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time to re-grade and level your lawn to the final grade you want it to have. It’s now ready to be hydroseeded!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo you have a hydroseeder? Chances are that the average homeowner doesn’t have one. In that case, you have three options: renting a hydroseeder, making one yourself, or buying a hydroseeding kit in-store or online. Buying a hydroseeding kit is not a bad option if you need to seed a smaller area.
\n\n\n\nYou can rent a hydroseeding machine for covering large areas from equipment rental companies like United Rentals, Sunbelt Rentals, and MacAllister Rentals.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather make your own hydroseeder, this video tutorial will show you how:
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your hydroseeding equipment, it’s time to mix your slurry. If you have a DIY hydroseeding kit, you only need to read the instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow much of each slurry component you need depends heavily on the size of the area you’ll be spraying. Typically, you’ll need 5 to 7 lbs of seed, 40 to 50 lbs of mulch, and 20 lbs of fertilizer for every 1,000 sq. ft. you’ll be hydroseeding. You’ll need enough water to fill your equipment about ¾ of the way. When in doubt, ask your materials supplier for guidance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding machines can vary in how they’re operated; always read the manual for specific instructions. However, you can expect this general process:
\n\n\n\nNow, it’s time to spray your lawn. It’s best to spray when it’s calm and cool outside, but it’s ok if it’s predicted to rain lightly that day. Wear your protective equipment before spraying, as you might be out in the sun for a while.
\n\n\n\nPlan your path ahead of time to prevent you from having to step on the areas you’ve just sprayed. Keep the nozzle at least 3 inches from the ground and spray slowly and evenly throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou might want to overlap your slurry a little bit while you spray. This ensures there aren’t any gaps that will result in bare patches later on. You can make this easier for yourself if you add lawn-friendly dye to your slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"hydroseeded](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCongratulations, you’ve now hydroseeded your lawn! However, this is only the beginning. You’ll need to maintain your new grass for it to grow into a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few hydroseeded lawn maintenance tips:
\n\n\n\nJust like when you’re planting grass seeds the old-fashioned way, the best time to hydroseed is during your chosen grass type’s growing season.
\n\n\n\nFor Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, you should hydroseed in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses, and other cool-season grasses should be hydroseeded from late summer to early fall.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can hydroseed in the summer, it can be a bit more challenging as you must keep your new lawn moist for the first few weeks, and water tends to evaporate in the hot summer sun before it can soak into the soil and reach the grass’s roots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to grow new grass in a larger area, then you should hydroseed. If you’re filling in bare patches, then it’s better to overseed the regular way. The hydroseed slurry can injure or kill your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOn average, the cost of professional hydroseeding ranges from 8 to 20 cents per square foot. The rate will depend on many factors, including your lawn’s condition and how big it is.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated and can make for an interesting project to tackle. You could save money on labor, too. However, it can be more beneficial to hire a professional because they have the knowledge and the equipment to hydroseed your lawn already. Besides, a pro will usually be more successful at hydroseeding than the average homeowner.
Wikilawn can connect you with dependable lawn care pros that can hydroseed, fertilize, and mow your lawn for you. Hire a lawn maintenance pro near you today for a lush lawn without all the work.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/107df/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/293e9/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/f2cbb/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/c26c2/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/67b76/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/8df11/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/98a65/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/3cc96/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Hydroseeding can give you the beautiful and lush lawn of your dreams. You can even do it yourself. Learn how with this DIY hydroseeding guide."}}},{"node":{"id":"71765f81-27d8-5685-9ab3-853f0e6b2def","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-and-around-houston","path":"/lawn-care/tx/houston/watering-restrictions-in-and-around-houston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.","name":"Tina Hill","id":"05b33636-8a93-5cbe-a32e-4d72278ff06f","path":"/author/tina-hill/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f78fd5fd50db11dcceecbeb20de206e?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"656604f4-56e7-55ed-8540-cc48be40652a","name":"Houston","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/houston/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"June 18th, 2019","excerpt":"You may be hot, but you can get into hot water if you use too much water in Houston. With average summertime temperatures in the mid-90s, it’s an absolute must to stick with the city’s water conservation plan. Watering restrictions in and around Houston are in place because drought in Texas is common. Sticking to […]
\n","content":"\nYou may be hot, but you can get into hot water if you use too much water in Houston. With average summertime temperatures in the mid-90s, it’s an absolute must to stick with the city’s water conservation plan. Watering restrictions in and around Houston are in place because drought in Texas is common. Sticking to the watering rules will help you avoid any sticky situations, later on.
\n\n\n\nLocal lakes and rivers make up Houston’s water supply. Eighty-six percent comes from the Trinity River into Lake Livingston, and the San Jacinto River into lakes Houston and Conroe. The rest comes from deeply-drilled underground wells into the Chicot and Evangeline aquifers. With roughly 2.3 million people living and working in the city, and more on the outskirts, the need for water isn’t exaggerated. Houston’s Public Works Department estimates Harris County’s population will exceed 5.5 million people in the next 30 years.
\n\n\n\nIn the end, Mother Nature decides how much water lakes, rivers, and aqueducts will provide.
\n\n\n\nIn a “normal” summer, water customers can irrigate their lawns between 7 p.m. and 5 a.m. Homeowners whose addresses end in even numbers can water on Sundays and Thursdays. Addresses ending in odd numbers may water on Saturdays and Wednesdays. Businesses and the like can water the grass on Tuesdays and Fridays. These watering times differ in severe droughts and shortages.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u86Wbq_OrfgflIQ4UwsGSsKkvs-_qUV7_7du0YbfZUuFs650k0FlFZeIFYPsOdNJOvQxrqJGjNxYDjPuIITACghhlesR5X7tgLubV0NWjFJjiBt8TRzQGrCo_6DDY7Nwf8fM0pPM\")
Violating Houston’s drought contingency plan rules during dry periods can cost you! Although there are exceptions for new lawns, violations of Stage Two restrictions can lead to fines ranging from $100 to $2,000. Stage Three violations can cost you $500 at the very least (up to $2,000). Blowing off the rules at Stage Four means a fine starting at a grand or higher – this in addition to surcharges tacked on to your next several water bills. AND … there is the possibility of having your Houston area water service disconnected. The expense, hassle, and inconvenience of wading through the paperwork far outweigh that of sticking to the city’s water conservation plan.
\n\n\n\nGiven the summer heat in the Houston area and the everlasting need to preserve nature’s precious resources, it’s always a good idea to have a basic maintenance plan for your yard.
\n\n\n\nThe standard of lawn watering is to provide an inch of water once a week, or half an inch twice a week. Rainfall is best, but when it’s not raining, you can set up your sprinkler to run during Houston’s schedule of watering hours. The best time to water is at 4 a.m. so the soil and roots of the grass can soak it all in before the heat of the day. Too much water and watering during the heat of the day is a waste, and it can lead to disease and grass damage.
\n\n\n\nYou can do your part to save water by:
\n\n\n\nThe city and county will put out the word if there are watering restrictions in and around Houston, but think of it this way: When in doubt, prepare for drought.
\n\n\n\nHave more questions about how Houston’s local watering restrictions affect your lawn and landscape? Please visit our Houston, TX lawn care page for more information.
\n","title":"Watering Restrictions in and Around Houston","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/1789c/sprinkler-3.jpg","srcSet":"/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/107df/sprinkler-3.jpg 320w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/293e9/sprinkler-3.jpg 500w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/f2cbb/sprinkler-3.jpg 800w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/1789c/sprinkler-3.jpg 960w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/6f669/sprinkler-3.jpg 1950w","srcWebp":"/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/1dd6e/sprinkler-3.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/67b76/sprinkler-3.webp 320w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/8df11/sprinkler-3.webp 500w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/98a65/sprinkler-3.webp 800w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/1dd6e/sprinkler-3.webp 960w,\n/static/8da11b863f176455f77efa04d9204ccb/ca720/sprinkler-3.webp 1950w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Watering Restrictions in and Around Houston | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Water conservation is serious business in Texas. Learn the watering restrictions in and around Houston to avoid hefty fines and high water bills."}}},{"node":{"id":"a87b2533-edf7-5102-9741-fde44d6d6b55","slug":"best-grass-types-colorado-springs-co","path":"/lawn-care/co/colorado-springs/best-grass-types-colorado-springs-co/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Austin Geiger is an avid reader and writer. He has loved to read and write from a young age, and does both daily. His favorite subjects are fantasy and comedy, and he despises run-on sentences.","name":"Austin Geiger","id":"69bc552e-2c03-5c38-acc7-562e86f2a201","path":"/author/austin-geiger/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5baab15ab5786cfd4d2372bb580f441c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"be8bb3a1-b40c-57ba-87f7-ff69490271a0","name":"Colorado","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/co/"},{"id":"253dba4d-dac0-5b2a-b00c-9b16e649ac14","name":"Colorado Springs","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/co/colorado-springs/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"March 24th, 2023","excerpt":"When you’re picking out new grass for your outdoor space, it’s important to choose one that both looks great and can handle your local area’s environmental conditions. This is especially true when it comes to Colorado and its harsh winters. The 6 best grass types for Colorado Springs can handle the local environment while still […]
\n","content":"\nWhen you’re picking out new grass for your outdoor space, it’s important to choose one that both looks great and can handle your local area’s environmental conditions. This is especially true when it comes to Colorado and its harsh winters. The 6 best grass types for Colorado Springs can handle the local environment while still making your landscape look like a dream.
\n\n\n\nHere are six grass types that can help your lawn look its best, even when Jack Frost is nipping at your nose:
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grass grows best in temperatures between 75 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, while cool-season grasses grow best between 60 and 75 degrees. Both warm-season and cool-season grasses can thrive in Colorado Springs since the city’s average temperatures fall within both of their comfortable ranges.
\n\n\n\nThe main difference between warm-season and cool-season grasses is the time of year they grow. Warm-season grasses experience active growth starting in late spring and then go dormant in early to mid-fall. Cool-season grasses, on the other hand, actively start growing in early spring, enter summer dormancy, return to green in fall, and then enter winter dormancy.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses also have a higher tolerance for frost, shade, and low temperatures, whereas warm-season grasses don’t do as well with these conditions. Conversely, warm-season grass is more tolerant of sun, heat, and drought.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Kentucky-Bluegrass-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pilot138-17 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is one of the most common grass types in Colorado, and for good reason. Its striking dark green color helps it stand out. Its soft, smooth leaves combined with its moderate foot traffic tolerance and thick turf make it perfect for walking on barefoot or engaging in outdoor activities.
\n\n\n\nIf you like spending time outdoors working on your lawn, then Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice. It requires a bit more maintenance than other grasses on this list, both in mowing and especially fertilization.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass likes plenty of sun, so it’s a good choice for less shaded yards that get a lot of natural light. It’s also a thirsty grass, requiring about 2 to 2.5 inches of water per week in the summer, so make sure you don’t get caught in the sprinklers while you’re soaking up some rays.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Moderate mowing and high fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2.5-3.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: Moderate to high. Possible diseases include dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: Well-drained heavy soil with high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Kentucky bluegrass is among the most common grass types used for lawns and sports fields in the United States.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is another common Colorado grass. It’s more tolerant of shade than Kentucky bluegrass, which makes it a better choice for yards with trees or other overhanging areas that block out sunlight. It also has better drought and heat tolerance, but don’t let yourself be fooled into thinking that this means it can go without water completely when the weather gets dry.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is typically medium to dark green in color. Its coarse texture may make it a poor choice if you plan to spend a lot of time on the grass. But thankfully it can still handle some level of outdoor activity thanks to its decent foot traffic tolerance.
\n\n\n\nAs far as maintenance goes, the only notable need that tall fescue has is frequent mowing, which can be attributed to its quick growth rate. If you’re looking for a hardy grass that’s easy to care for and have soil that you can’t quite coax other plant life out of, then tall fescue may be the grass type for you.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Short rhizomes with bunch-type growth
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: Set mowing height to 2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: Low when properly maintained
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: Prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage, but tolerates a wide variety of soils
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Tall fescue grass has very good heat tolerance compared to most cool-season grasses
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass is a dark green grass with a fine texture that grows in bunches. In terms of foot tolerance, it’s one of the best there is, making it the perfect candidate if you plan to play outdoor sports or host neighborhood get-togethers.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass also pairs very well with other grass types, such as fescues and Kentucky bluegrass. Mixing it with either type can result in a lawn that grows better and is more disease resistant than either would be alone, which is important due to ryegrass’ penchant for sickness.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass soaks up the sun well, so if your lawn doesn’t get much shade, this could be the grass for you. Just keep in mind its low drought tolerance, which means that you’ll need to water it more frequently than other grass types during the dry seasons.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: High. Common diseases include leaf spot, gray leaf spot, and red thread
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-8, prefers 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: High fertility, can tolerate poor drainage but prefers good drainage
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Perennial ryegrass doesn’t develop significant thatch
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is another cool-season grass common in Colorado. Its light blue-green color and fine texture make it a very attractive grass type for suburban lawns. It’s also the most shade-tolerant cool-season grass, particularly the chewings fescue.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue’s moderate to high drought tolerance lets it last much longer with less water than most grasses when the weather gets dry. Combined with its low maintenance requirements and tolerance of most soil types, this makes it an extremely hardy grass that can grow in conditions that other types can’t tolerate for one reason or another.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, fine fescue’s low tolerance for foot traffic means that you won’t be able to host barbecues on it every day. If you’re looking for a great-looking hardy lawn that you don’t intend to use all that much, fine fescue sounds like the grass for you.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Depends on the exact species. Creeping red spreads through rhizomes, while most are bunch-type grasses
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: Low to Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2.5-4 inches, depending on the species
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: Prefers dry soil. Otherwise, tolerates a wide variety of different soil types and fertility levels
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Many of fine fescue’s attributes depend on the species. Some will have higher shade, drought, and foot traffic tolerance than others
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/1024px-Blue_grama_Bouteloua_gracilis_MN_2007.jpg\")
Photo Credit: SEWilco / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBlue grama grass may be a warm-season grass, but don’t worry, it can handle the Colorado Springs weather just as well as any cold-season grass. It does go dormant when the temperatures drop too low, but otherwise, it makes for a fine-looking grass that can handle whatever Colorado can throw at it.
\n\n\n\nDue to blue grama’s bunch-type growth, you’ll have to seed it thickly to use it as a complete ground cover. It’s certainly possible, but you may be better off using blue grama as a complement for other grass types that can form a carpet more easily. Its exceptional foot traffic tolerance makes it good for reinforcing other grasses that don’t handle it as well.
\n\n\n\nThanks to blue grama’s high drought tolerance and love for the sun, it does extremely well in an open lawn without much shade. In addition, it’s a very good choice for xeriscaping should you choose to make the switch.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: High unless dormant
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: Moderate. Common diseases include fungal rust and leaf and tar spot
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.6-8.4
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: Well-drained sandy or clay soil with little organic content
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Despite being a warm-season grass, blue grama is native to Colorado and is very good for xeriscaping, especially as an ornamental grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is another warm-season grass that can handle the conditions of the Colorado Springs area. It has a beautiful gray to blue-green color with a fine texture that makes it comfortable to walk on with bare feet. But unfortunately, its poor tolerance for foot traffic makes it a bad idea to play backyard football on a regular basis.
\n\n\n\nLike blue grama, buffalograss has a very good drought tolerance and does best with lots of sun. But unlike blue grama, buffalograss is not a bunch-type grass. This means it easily forms a proper ground cover via stolons. However, keep in mind that buffalograss forms a thick thatch that you’ll need to remove about once a year.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss is also very low maintenance aside from weed control and keeping away diseases. Overall, it’s a great grass type for someone who wants a good-looking front lawn that they don’t intend to use very often.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought Tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot Traffic Tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance Needs: Low fertilization and mowing, but does require weed control
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for Disease: High
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil Type: Prefers clay soil and does not tolerate sandy soil
\n\n\n\nOther Notes: Buffalograss is another warm-season grass native to Colorado that grows very well in the Great Plains
\n\n\n\nYes, xeriscaping is an excellent water-saving approach in Colorado yards. Blue grama grass is an excellent turf choice if you wish to xeriscape.
It depends on what type of grass you choose. Seed cool-season grasses in spring or fall, and warm-season grasses between late spring and summer.
Colorado Springs is in the transition zone. This means that it can support both cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses.
Yes, cool-season grass can enter dormancy when soil temperatures drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool-season grass may also enter dormancy in hot summers.
Keep in mind that every species of grass varies in different tolerances depending on its cultivar. Shop around and make sure you get a grass cultivar that meets your needs so that you’re not stuck with a lawn that can’t handle the conditions on your property.
\n\n\n\nFor example, if your lawn doesn’t get a lot of shade, you need a grass that can handle the sun. If you live in an area without much rainfall, you need a particularly drought-tolerant grass.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t need to miss a day at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo because you’re busy working on your lawn. If you need help with landscaping in Colorado Springs, call your local lawn care professionals who can mow, trim, and edge the lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: David / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Colorado Springs","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/1789c/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/107df/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/293e9/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/f2cbb/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/1789c/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/c26c2/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/1dd6e/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/67b76/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/8df11/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/98a65/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/1dd6e/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/5132916c8b5f3d193f21c8ed23f5c1a4/3cc96/Colorado-Springs-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Colorado Springs","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Need help choosing a new grass for your Colorado Springs lawn? Here are the 6 best grass types to consider."}}},{"node":{"id":"d48bf529-7e32-515c-99df-8e3f40dac67e","slug":"the-definitive-guide-st-augustine-grass","path":"/lawn-care/the-definitive-guide-st-augustine-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 28th, 2019","excerpt":"An Overview St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum), also known as ‘Carpetgrass’, is native to the Gulf of Mexico coast lines, the West Indies and Western Africa. Records from long ago have reported the presence of St. Augustine grass as a seashore pioneer along the Atlantic coasts of Africa and the Americas. Prior to 1800, the […]
\n","content":"\nSt. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum), also known as ‘Carpetgrass’, is native to the Gulf of Mexico coast lines, the West Indies and Western Africa. Records from long ago have reported the presence of St. Augustine grass as a seashore pioneer along the Atlantic coasts of Africa and the Americas. Prior to 1800, the species was reported in Uruguay, Brazil, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, the West Indies, Bermuda and South Carolina. It was even reported in Kauai, Hawaii prior to 1800. By 1840, St. Augustine grass had also been collected from Australia and New Zealand further highlighting its adaptability and utility around the world.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustine provides a coarser, denser ground cover than most fine textured Bermuda grasses, thus giving it the nickname ‘Carpetgrass’. It is an aggressively growing grass, yet it is still able to be controlled around its borders by edgers of various types. Because St. Augustine seldom produces viable seeds, it is most often planted via plugs, sprigs, or rolls of sod, with sod being the most desirable option available. It does require more moisture, in the soil and in terms of watering, than other turfgrass options. Therefore St. Augustine is best suited for naturally humid areas such as Florida, Texas, and other southern states with subtropical to tropical weather.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, most varieties of St. Augustine are known to be fairly shade tolerant, making it an attractive option for when turf grass is desired under large shade trees. It tolerates a wide range in soil types, but cannot withstand being waterlogged or droughty sites. In the United States, St. Augustine grass can be found from the Carolinas to Florida and westward along the Gulf Coast to Texas and in Southern and Central California. Because of its lack of winter hardiness, St. Augustine grass is restricted to areas with mild winter temperatures. Similar to bermudagrass, St. Augustine thrives in high temperature and high humidity zones, but the growth of St. Augustine is better than that of bermudagrass in cool, coastal climates. As a species, there are many cultivars and varieties to choose from that have varying pros and cons so as to be a good choice for many site conditions.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/RqTAcxWwTkQd4iUQdLMu-_A0qY3ywERnWUDiQAzCrKz2fTMA0TCrRrATxPENMdB-ypTBhxBxE1CvyX4VbDLEWnPc4LRhKuhKn-HEH8PFvrCXoxgE_0iTgxJJO78rza7PzfYZgCVEHZuceRC95w\")
Since St. Augustine grass has been propagated for the past 200 years, only a few strains or varieties have evolved and none have been developed (1). The following are just a few available varieties and their primary characteristics:
\n\n\n\nAs is often true in the horticultural world, a plant’s strongest assets can also be its worst characteristics. No turfgrass is ideal for all circumstances, and St. Augustine grass is no exception. As shown by the traits of just a few of the varieties listed above, St. Augustine grass has a variety for nearly every site condition in the southern United States.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Jlr0LSAIjx_4W_ZA7W9QLrcWBpZ31XaKq7hcktxQOslfqRtxCrC5z0tzJhVOoXDBITN9-lRN6GacUZ9c9EiQAWjyMlllnN8VVbaN9TdFBv70HQUNxLnZ94FFM1GeMLVCRiaf4SzoLPirqTjNxA\")
With warm-season grasses, month-by-month lawn care occurs on a different timetable than cool-season northern grasses that peak during fall. Saint Augustine grass is best planted in spring, after the final frost, as warm-season grasses come out of dormancy and enter prime growth. Overseeding existing turf lawns with additional St. Augustine seed can also be done at this time.
\n\n\n\nStill unsure of how to best care for your Saint Augustine lawn? Check out your state’s agricultural extension office for helpful tips and soil testing kits that will help you determine your best lawn care plan.
If you live in the southern or warm coastal United States and your lawn needs call for a durable and wear-resistant warm-season lawn that can withstand both heat and drought, Saint Augustine may be the perfect solution providing you seasons of bright green turf grass.
Sources:
1. Duble, Richard L. Texas Coorperative Extension https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/turf/publications/staug.html
\n\n\n\nStill have questions about lawn care? Please visit our lawn care page for more information.
\n","title":"The Definitive Guide: St. Augustine Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/1789c/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg","srcSet":"/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/107df/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg 320w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/293e9/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg 500w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/f2cbb/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg 800w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/1789c/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg 960w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/a2a79/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/1dd6e/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/67b76/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp 320w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/8df11/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp 500w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/98a65/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp 800w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/1dd6e/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp 960w,\n/static/9aabb009046f70e44b14a4dd3b82c47b/7aa54/st-augustine-grass-orlando-florida.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Definitive Guide: St. Augustine Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"6ba29152-fc73-502b-8a6c-d72e769a7d6d","slug":"a-guide-to-summer-lawn-care-in-virginia-beach","path":"/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/a-guide-to-summer-lawn-care-in-virginia-beach/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"ddd20ffd-f767-55d6-8823-27520167ef7e","name":"Virginia","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/"},{"id":"9107cea5-e99b-514c-a5cb-295305a7d651","name":"Virginia Beach","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/virginia/virginia-beach/"}],"date":"August 9th, 2019","excerpt":"A great looking Virginia lawn doesn’t happen overnight. It takes work and adjustments, discovering just the right thing needed for thick, green grass.
\n","content":"\nA great looking Virginia lawn doesn’t happen overnight. It takes work and adjustments, discovering just the right thing needed for thick, green grass. Each season has its own requirements to keep your yard in tip-top shape and summer’s no different. With a few simple steps and this guide to summer lawn care in Virginia Beach, your lawn will hold up through the heat and humidity.
\n\n\n\nA Virginia Beach lawn is hard to maintain if you don’t start with the right type of grass.
\n\n\n\nGrass has two major types — cool-season grasses, suited to Northern climates, and warm-season grasses, bred to thrive in the Southern heat. The state of Virginia is in the “transition zone” where both can be grown, but each will have challenges. Warm-season grasses will struggle in the winter, while cool-season grasses will wilt in the summer.
\n\n\n\nHowever, Virginia Beach’s climate is moderated by the ocean, so it rarely gets bitterly cold. In addition, it has sandy soils. Both those conditions mean warm-season grasses are the better choice, according to the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service.
\n\n\n\nSo, the experts recommend a warm-season grass like Bermuda, Bahia, or Zoysia have strong roots and the ability to tolerate drought. However, the cool-season fescue remains the most-dominant grass type.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Kt4OrHtGmwhVVVi0vJhB6QUlx_Q22P9zDVbDpVF69Zl7eXzD50J7Tbv_ABitXg2gn5PkN3P6WOHkgJvxIXP2FQhcOrpIyizcEaUs206KR05iONT3c9Rr-9VvEGwMU5mN_IqLNuH\")
Regular mowing is one of the most important things you can do for a healthy lawn. Doing it right creates a low-maintenance yard that also resists drought. The correct mowing height depends on the type of grass you plant. Mowing to the proper height makes the turfgrass thicker and promotes deep root growth. It also helps the grass stand up better against weeds and environmental stresses. Also, never cut more than one-third of the top at one time.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass: 1 to 1 1/2 inches
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass: 2 to 4 inches
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass: 1 1/2 to 3 inches.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is dry, water it or wait for rain before cutting. Mowing parched grass stresses the turf by exposing it to the wind and sun.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zx62tJ30i-O-bkkh_NrPb4LgtdpUzxpwXaap5rC1ebC1TJP74vcl-vur8cX_Qp36i03HEMnSyPOqLJU2nFwaGtcJ1bxkhWR9rsrjjaY2TfHDYpsNb3JmV9mK9bUEZL9jLEov5DFc\")
When you mow regularly, and the grass isn’t too tall, the volume of clippings left behind aren’t enough to warrant raking. Nor should you. Clippings left after mowing act as a fertilizer. They decompose, leaving water and nutrients behind in your yard. Clippings are rich in nitrogen and can reduce both the need for chemical fertilizer and the risk of the chemicals burning the lawn. It’s also better for the environment. There are, however, a few instances where it’s better to bag the clippings. Rake when the grass is wet, or you waited too long between mowings. Pick the clippings up if you need them for your compost pile. And definitely, don’t leave the clippings behind if you have spots of disease in the lawn. Bag them up and throw them away to prevent spreading the disease to other areas of your yard.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will survive a Virginia Beach summer without a lot of watering, except during severe drought conditions. But this guide to summer lawn care in Virginia Beach recommends watering about an inch per week in dry weather. The best time is early morning. Watering during the heat of the day will put stress on the lawn, and much of the water will evaporate. When water is needed, water deeply to encourage deep grass roots.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d like more information about lawn care and landscaping, visit our Virginia Beach lawn care page.
Knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n","content":"\nLawn work is hard work, and the last thing you want is weeds to come and mess up your hard work. But knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let the wild violet’s charming name fool you! The wild violet (pictured above) grows quickly and aggressively and is resistant to a lot of weedkillers. You’ll usually find it in the shade, and it likes moist soil. It is a pretty plant, with waxy, heart-shaped leaves and small lavender-blue blossoms, but if you find it in your yard, you’ll probably get over its looks pretty quickly as it spreads. It is a perennial broadleaf weed with a long taproot, so you’ll want a weedkiller that targets broadleaf weeds, killing them but leaving your grass unharmed.
\n\n\n\nThe black medic is an annual clover and grows well in compacted soil. You’ll be able to tell black medic from other clovers because its pom-pom flowers are yellow. This weed often sprouts up next to sidewalks or other areas that are compacted by traffic. Getting rid of it may be as simple as aerating your lawn. It’s also easy to hand-weed, because black medic is a central-growing plant, making it easier to get at the root than other weeds. Chemical weed killers also do a good job of eradicating this plant.
\n\n\n\nCreeping charlie, aka ground ivy, is unmistakable. This weed has round, coin-shaped leaves with frilly edges. Minneapolis is not alone in the fight against creeping charlie; this is an invasive species that has made itself at home throughout much of the continental United States. If you catch it early, in the spring, you can pull it by hand — but make sure you get all of it because this is a fast and easy grower. If you catch it later, you might be better off putting down a fall herbicide in your lawn to completely eradicate creeping charlie.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/dandelion-flickr-1-1024x768.jpg\")
The dandelion has some uses — its leaves can be added to your salad and its central root can be dried and made into a tea. But for most people, the dandelion and its cheery yellow blossoms are a common weed, and one that can be hard to eliminate. If any part of the dandelion, especially that thick central taproot, is left behind, the plant can grow back and proliferate. Experts recommend pulling what you can, and feeding your lawn to make it thick enough to crowd out dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. Applying a pre-emergent weed killer in the spring will help keep dandelions to a minimum as well.
\n\n\n\nThere are dozens of weeds that will try to take advantage of Minneapolis’ sweet but all-too-short summer. This lists off some of the worst of them, so you can eradicate them quickly — and spend more time in your yard relaxing, instead of working.
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care information and tips? Be sure to check our Minneapolis lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Liz West, Flickr
New Hampshire is known for cold, snowy weather, but that doesn’t mean your yard has to be barren during the winter season. You can brighten it up with some beautiful winter plants that handle cold winters like a cool breeze. Check out these nine plants that flower in New Hampshire’s cold winters. In this article: […]
\n","content":"\nNew Hampshire is known for cold, snowy weather, but that doesn’t mean your yard has to be barren during the winter season. You can brighten it up with some beautiful winter plants that handle cold winters like a cool breeze. Check out these nine plants that flower in New Hampshire’s cold winters.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nWhile all of New Hampshire gets pretty chilly during the winter months, the climate varies depending on the region. Northern New Hampshire experiences colder temperatures and more snowfall than the southern part of the state.
\n\n\n\nThat’s why it’s important to know your hardiness zone. Check it out here. We’ve mentioned the hardiness zone of each plant below so that you can pick the plants that will grow in your area.
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Snowdrop-Galanthus-Nivalis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSnowdrop is a spectacular flower that blooms in thawing soil in late winter to early spring, producing delicate white blossoms that hang from its thin green stem. Not only does it bloom while snow is still on the ground, but it even lives up to its name with its snow-white petals that really look like droplets.
\n\n\n\nThese little plants are often the first to appear in parks, but there’s nothing stopping you from planting them in your own yard. Plus, they’re easy to care for, too.
\n\n\n\n![\"Cornelian](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cornelian-Cherry-Cornus-Mas.jpg\")
Photo Credit: I, B.navez / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBlossoms in late winter, fruit in the summer – Cornelian cherry brings the whole package. Its fruit is quite sour, but it can be processed into jams, jellies, and syrups. If you want it to create a little privacy, that’s not a problem either; Cornelian cherry can grow up to 25 feet tall or be grown as a hedge. Fun fact: the shrub’s name is actually a misnomer. It’s not a cherry but a dogwood. Although it’s unsuitable for pets, you can certainly leave the fruit for local wildlife, like birds.
\n\n\n\n![\"Different](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Ornamental-Kale-and-Cabbage-Brassica-Oleracea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Terren / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nOrnamental kale and cabbage are like winter accessories for your yard. They add vibrancy during those snowy days. The rose blossom-shaped white and purple leaves of the plants make them popular with gardeners who want to add some color to their winter landscapes. They especially stand out in a group setting. Plus, ornamental kale and cabbage can look great as a garnish on your dinner plate.
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Japanese-Pieris-Pieris-Japonica.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nAlso known as Japanese andromeda or lily-of-the-valley bush, Japanese pieris is a popular evergreen shrub that produces clusters of small, bell-shaped flowers in late winter to early spring. When it gets warm enough, the flowers attract bees. As one of its names suggests, its flowers resemble lilies of the valley, although their fragrance is not as strong. Also, take note that this shrub is more suitable for the southern part of New Hampshire.
\n\n\n\nNevertheless, the Japanese pieris is a striking showpiece that can be used as a focal point in a garden or as a hedge. Shorter cultivars are also available for smaller spaces.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Daffodil-Narcissus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Betty Wills / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nDaffodil is a spectacular and hardy bulb that’s super easy to care for and thrives in a variety of soil types, making it a great choice for beginners and advanced gardeners alike. And of course, planting these stunners in your yard is a great way to brighten it up with a pop of color.
\n\n\n\n![\"Pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Winter-Heath-Erica-Carnea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: K M / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re in the south of New Hampshire, you can try planting winter heath, a purple, pink, or white evergreen shrub that’s sure to brighten up your yard during the cold months. This early winter bloomer is easy to care for and thrives in the sun. It can also tolerate a little shade, but it may make its stems too long, affecting its appearance. Be sure not to fertilize this plant; it has a symbiotic relationship with soil fungi, so it gets enough nutrients unless it’s in a pot.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Winter-Aconite-Eranthis-hyemalis.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Martin Olsson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThe lovely winter aconite stands out for its yellow, buttercup-like flowers that provide a source of nectar for bees when they become active. The ground-hugging plant likes to peek through the blankets of snow, cheerfully signaling the end of winter and the arrival of spring. It’s likely to spread throughout your garden, so you’ll need to keep it in check.
\n\n\n\n![\"Yellow](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Winter-Jasmine-Jasminum-Nudiflorum.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nIf you’re in southern New Hampshire and want your yard to be covered in delicate yellow flowers throughout the winter, you can stop looking. Winter jasmine either grows as a groundcover or climbs up to 15 feet on a trellis. While it’s non-fragrant, it can cheer up your outdoor area with its green foliage and late-winter blooms.
\n\n\n\nThis stunner of a plant is sometimes confused with the similar-looking forsythia, but unlike forsythia, winter jasmine blooms in the winter and isn’t known to be toxic.
\n\n\n\n![\"Purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Siebers-Crocus-Crocus-Sieberi.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Meneerke bloem / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nSieber’s crocus will adorn your yard with beautiful, purple flowers in late winter to early spring. Sieber’s crocus is not just a real beauty, but it’s also resistant to cold and snow. Crocus species do well in New Hampshire in general, though, so feel f ree to check out other varieties and combine them to your liking.
\n\n\n\nTechnically, they’re not blooming flowers, but ornamental cabbage and kale are known for their colorful foliage that lasts throughout the winter months.
Most winter plants don’t blossom until late winter. But if you plant winter heath, you can expect it to grow as early as December or January.
Many of the plants above are easy to grow. For example, you can try growing snowdrops, daffodils, winter heath, or ornamental kale and cabbage.
Keeping your yard looking gorgeous all year is achievable, but it’s hard work that needs the right knowledge and tools. If you need some help, Wikilawn connects you to the best landscaping pros near you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo By: Iris Wijngaarden / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"9 Plants That Flower in New Hampshire’s Cold Winters","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/1789c/Snowdrop.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/107df/Snowdrop.jpg 320w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/293e9/Snowdrop.jpg 500w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/f2cbb/Snowdrop.jpg 800w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/1789c/Snowdrop.jpg 960w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/c26c2/Snowdrop.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/1dd6e/Snowdrop.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/67b76/Snowdrop.webp 320w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/8df11/Snowdrop.webp 500w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/98a65/Snowdrop.webp 800w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/1dd6e/Snowdrop.webp 960w,\n/static/0d6d2ad6751819d38841aaf97734af86/3cc96/Snowdrop.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Plants That Flower in New Hampshire's Cold Winters | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Your yard doesn't have to be barren during the winter. Check out these 10 plants that flower in New Hampshire's cold winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"77a49ec2-92f7-5556-87a0-e95395bd2754","slug":"best-grass-types-arkansas","path":"/lawn-care/ar/best-grass-types-arkansas/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"31b8d887-3e55-503a-9ba9-8fac7d950ccf","name":"Arkansas","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ar/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"May 9th, 2023","excerpt":"Arkansas is best known for its scenic lakes, rivers, and hot springs, but it’s also home to the only active diamond mine in the U.S. How’s that for fancy? Arkansas’ climate is classified as humid subtropical, but the Natural State experiences four seasons with plenty of precipitation and short, cold winters. Arkansas has plenty of […]
\n","content":"\nArkansas is best known for its scenic lakes, rivers, and hot springs, but it’s also home to the only active diamond mine in the U.S. How’s that for fancy? Arkansas’ climate is classified as humid subtropical, but the Natural State experiences four seasons with plenty of precipitation and short, cold winters.
\n\n\n\nArkansas has plenty of prime outdoor months for the avid adventurer with high temperatures averaging 74 degrees Fahrenheit and lows averaging 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The six best grass types for Arkansas need little water to survive the unique climate. Read on to discover varieties suitable for your Arkansas landscape.
\n\n\n\nArkansas sits in the transition zone, a region ranging from East Coast states like Delaware, Maryland, and North Carolina all the way west to Missouri, Kansas, Eastern Oklahoma, and Arkansas. This zone has incredibly unique weather, and neither warm nor cool-season turfgrasses completely adapt to the region.
\n\n\n\nIn the transition zone, summers are too hot for cool-season grass varieties and winters are too cold for warm-season grasses, making it incredibly difficult to maintain your lawn.
\n\n\n\nAll types of grass are classified into one of two categories:
\n\n\n\nArkansas is a landlocked state just south of its transition zone neighbor, Missouri. Cool-season grass varieties grow best in Northern and Central Arkansas, while the entire state is suited to growing most warm-season cultivars.
\n\n\n\nThe following grass types adapt to the climatic and soil conditions of Northern Arkansas:
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nLike some warm-season cultivars, bermudagrass adapts to the entire state. It is the most common Arkansas grass variety and a versatile option suited for many applications, including athletic fields, golf courses, and home lawns. Bermudagrass is moderately cold-tolerant, hardy, and fine to coarse-textured. It is an aggressive grass that recovers quickly, withstanding drought and heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nCommon and hybrid bermudagrass varieties grow well in Arkansas. Common varieties are sun-loving with a light green color and coarse texture, while hybrid cultivars have a finer texture and dark green appearance. Common bermudagrass requires less maintenance than hybrid varieties but is less dense with a more sparse appearance and lower disease resistance.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease; prone to spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, and sheath spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance; prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/St.-Augustinegrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 US
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is hardy as far north as Little Rock and thrives in Arkansas’ hot summers. It is a dense turfgrass with deep roots. However, it is the least winter-hardy warm-season cultivar. St. Augustinegrass has a high shade tolerance and is easy to establish. It is quick-growing but does not stand up well to herbicides or heavy traffic.
\n\n\n\nAll cultivars of this dense turfgrass are susceptible to disease and pests, especially chinch bugs. St. Augustinegrass is blue-green with a coarse, carpet-like texture. The most readily available Arkansas cultivar is the common St. Augustinegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to gray leaf spot, large patch, and take-all root rot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; prone to chinch bugs, cutworms, mole crickets, grass loopers, armyworms, webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 US
\n\n\n\nLike bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass grows throughout Arkansas. It has thick, stiff leaf blades and grows dense, blocking out weeds. The low-maintenance turfgrass requires little fertilization and tolerates drought, shade, heavy traffic, low mow heights, and low temperatures.
\n\n\n\nArkansas is home to two main cultivars of Zoysiagrass, Zoysia japonica and Zoysia matrella. The attractive turfgrass is recognizable for its dense appearance and dark green color. Arkansas cultivars are not prone to disease or insect infestation, but grow slowly.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, armyworms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Centipedegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is slow-growing and a great low-maintenance option for Southern and Central Arkansas lawns. Like St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass cultivars are hardy as far north as Little Rock, requiring little mowing, fertilization, or water to remain lush and green.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass handles shade better than bermudagrass, but the smooth, flat blades do not handle heavy traffic, cold, or herbicides well. The turfgrass has a pronounced medium texture and light green color. It prefers to be left alone and is prone to pests and disease when improperly maintained or over watered.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to ground pearl insects, grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, and lawn caterpillars
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/solar-panels-working-2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Billy Lau / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nTall fescue grows best in the northern one-third of the state but will grow as far south as Central Arkansas. It is shade and cold-tolerant, growing best in spring and fall, and most cultivars go dormant in the hot Arkansas summers. Tall fescue has a clumping growth habit with deep roots and a sparse appearance.
\n\n\n\nThe turfgrass has an attractive medium to dark green color and coarse texture. It requires regular watering, fertilization, and mowing. Tall fescue stands up to heavy foot traffic and grows well in a range of soils, including clay and sand. Cultivars are not the most attractive choices for home lawns. However, homeowners appreciate their climatic adaptability, especially in the tough transition zone.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch forming)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate – doesn’t recover easily from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations, as many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate resistance – can be prone to leaf spot, seedling disease, and brown patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to Moderate resistance – can be susceptible to armyworms, cutworms, sod webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Grows in most soil types but prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: For optimal results, apply fertilizer once during the months of September and November. Also, plant fresh grass seeds every couple of years if you wish to maintain a lush lawn and tackle any sparse or thinning spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5552536384_1bc90958b3_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ferran Pestaña / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is a high-maintenance, cool-season cultivar that only grows in Northern Arkansas when mixed with tall fescue. It has low drought tolerance but withstands cold and the winter conditions of Arkansas well. To survive the hot, dry Arkansas summers, Kentucky bluegrass cultivars must be mixed and seeded with tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is recognizable for its famed blue-green color, fine texture, and dense appearance. Hybrid cultivars have improved heat tolerance and include Durablue, Thermal Blue Blade, and Solar Green. While these varieties withstand hot temperatures better, they still grow best alongside tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nMost varieties are available as premixed seeds. The most common pre-mixed ratio for Arkansas is 90% tall fescue seed and 10% hybrid bluegrass seed. This ratio ensures a more dense appearance that is hardy to the drought needs of a Northern Arkansas summer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate – prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches – mow taller during summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high – can be prone to snow molds, summer patch, leaf spot, fairy rings, dollar spot, necrotic ring spot, chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs, grubs, and greenbugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It’s most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns. Due to its limited root depth, regular watering is necessary. Poor soil conditions and lack of water can cause diseases, but newer cultivars are generally hardier and more resistant to disease.
\n\n\n\nNo. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients.
It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Arkansas turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass.
If you live south of Little Rock, plant your warm-season grass seed in May or June. This gives the seed plenty of time to germinate before the hot summer. For residents of Northern Arkansas, sow your cool-season cultivar in September or October to complement the natural fall growth cycle.
Perennial ryegrass is a temporary turfgrass option for Arkansas. It is often used after new construction or lawn renovation to prevent erosion and reduce dust and mud. Like other cool-season cultivars, sow perennial ryegrass in September or October. The temporary turfgrass will green up quickly and last through spring before your warm-season cultivar takes over.
The best grass cultivars for Arkansas depend on where you live in the state. Varieties are suited to your unique USDA zone. Arkansas’ zones include 6b to 8a, with most of the state falling between 7b to 8a. All turfgrasses have their own characteristics and needs. Choose a variety that works well for your space and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nYour grass comes together to help form your complete landscape. There are numerous landscaping options for the Natural State, and you can take advantage of the state’s four unique seasons. Be sure to check out our guides to help you plan your landscape and keep your lawn healthy year-round:
\n\n\n\nFrom well-known cities like Fayetteville, Little Rock, and Bentonville to the resort destinations of Hot Springs, no matter which part of the state you live in, conquer Arkansas’ unique climate. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local lawn care pro today to help you maintain a green and healthy lawn, so you have more free time outdoors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Lawn, Arkansas / Pxhere
\n","title":"6 Best Grass Types for Arkansas","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/1789c/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/107df/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/293e9/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/f2cbb/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/1789c/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/c26c2/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/1dd6e/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/67b76/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp 320w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/8df11/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp 500w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/98a65/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp 800w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/1dd6e/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp 960w,\n/static/71b8acaee442be7a7fb266c518f56c51/3cc96/tree-architecture-lawn-house-flower-home-1349315-pxhere.com-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Best Grass Types for Arkansas | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Depending on your location, the best grass types for Arkansas are both warm-season and cool-season varieties suitable for the unique transition zone."}}},{"node":{"id":"7a86cbfc-ca76-5958-bd48-05ffc5685e09","slug":"dallas-lawn-watering-guide-for-spring-summer","path":"/lawn-care/tx/dallas/dallas-lawn-watering-guide-for-spring-summer/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"April 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"Dallas spring weather is sometimes all over the place. Unpredictably there will be excessive heat sprinkled with freezing temperatures and sometimes even a tornado will pass by. Luckily the grasses that are most popular in Dallas can put up with these different types of weather. Arguably, the most important part of lawn care is watering. […]
\n","content":"\nDallas spring weather is sometimes all over the place. Unpredictably there will be excessive heat sprinkled with freezing temperatures and sometimes even a tornado will pass by. Luckily the grasses that are most popular in Dallas can put up with these different types of weather. Arguably, the most important part of lawn care is watering. It can be mundane, but it is important to have proper watering techniques. Here we have made a guide to watering specific to the Dallas area.
\n\n\n\nWatering a lawn, while it may sound easy, can be daunting when the results of the lawn are not up to par with expectations. The recommended amount of water per week in north texas is about an inch. Take into consideration the amount of sunlight your lawn receives. If the lawn is fully exposed to the sun and has no shade, these lawns will need more water to survive.
Under watering grass is probably the most prevalent prognosis in Texas, however in Dallas there are quick outbursts of rain that can add to over watering, especially if your lawn has not had proper watering techniques. Here are some signs that you are overwatering or underwatering.
\n\n\n\nThatch b
Fungus and disease can arise when a lawn has been over watered. If there is any stagnant water in a lawn there is an opportunity for a
Weeds of certain strains can thrive over thatch build up. Making sure that the lawn stays dense and free of additional water will promote healthy lawn growth and less weeds.
\n\n\n\nStress is a factor in any lawn, however, when stress begins to affect the lawn in a noticeable way, this is an indicator the grass is under
Discoloration will turn the lawn from green to brown or yellow. This can be an indicator that the grass has caught a disease as well. Watching the color of the grass closely will ensure the lawn doesn’t get to this point. Remember, overly exposed patches of grass may need a little more water than shaded sections.
Clump growth will indicate the lawn is struggling to survive. There will be several patches of dead grass with small sections of green. This stage is still salvageable, but may need an additional reseed and fertilizer to completely fix the problem.
\n\n\n\nTo avoid overwatering and to ensure the conservation of our water supply, the time of day matters. The optimum time to water is in the morning between the hours of 7 am to 10 am. During daylight savings, the watering schedule should be mended to around the time the sun rises.
\n\n\n\nWatering when the yard is fully exposed to the sun is a waste of water. The water will quickly evaporate during these times and not allow the grass to soak it all up. If only some water get through to the roots the roots will most likely become shallow and you will eventually have to water more to keep the grass green.
On the opposite spectrum watering in the evening can lead to over watering the lawn. The morning sun has the ability to evaporate excess water on the lawn ensuring the perfect amount of water gets soaked up by the grass. In the evening the water has nowhere to go but to sit on the lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe best technique to use when watering the yard is deep infrequent watering. This type of schedule aligns with the Dallas Watering Restrictions as well. Frequent watering with less water will cause the grass to have shallow roots. Infrequent watering will also allow the yard to be more durable against drought, below freezing temperatures, and other weather.
\n\n\n\nThere is a maximum two day a week watering restriction. If your house address ends in an even number you can water on Sundays and Thursdays. If your house ends in an odd number you are allotted Saturdays and Wednesdays. If there is no address number where you reside you can water on Sundays and Thursdays.
\n\n\n\nStill looking for more lawn care information? Visit our Dallas, TX lawn care page for more tips n’ tricks.
\n\n\n\nTop photo: Flickr // jean-louis plamondon
\n","title":"The #1 Dallas Lawn Watering Guide for Spring/Summer 2019","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4981273408239701,"src":"/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/f2cbb/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/107df/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.jpg 320w,\n/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/293e9/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.jpg 500w,\n/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/f2cbb/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/98a65/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/67b76/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.webp 320w,\n/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/8df11/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.webp 500w,\n/static/cf8e2cc4354db8c692966a611cccbc94/98a65/lawn-watering-tips-for-dallas-tx.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The #1 Dallas Lawn Watering Guide for Spring/Summer 2019 | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"4b313a94-ef05-5d02-9334-06d741cf5a10","slug":"best-native-plants-california","path":"/lawn-care/ca/best-native-plants-california/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"d4a57f5d-7087-5464-8fbc-e03c067b9723","name":"California","count":13,"path":"/category/lawn-care/ca/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2023","excerpt":"Humans and plants alike love sunny California. But what plants like the Golden State best? Your garden will thrive if you use native plants instead of non-native plants. Vegetation originating in this state is more likely to be Different plants will do well in different parts of the state. For example, a plant that thrives […]
\n","content":"\nHumans and plants alike love sunny California. But what plants like the Golden State best? Your garden will thrive if you use native plants instead of non-native plants. Vegetation originating in this state is more likely to be
\n\n\n\nDifferent plants will do well in different parts of the state. For example, a plant that thrives in Northern California may not do well in the Southern California heat. Many plants that grow on the coast won’t do well inland, and vice versa. Let’s review the best native plants for California, including what areas they’re best suited for.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we will cover:
\n\n\n\nThis state is home to thousands of plants. Out of those, we’ve selected some popular choices that work for many different areas. Make sure to double-check whether each plant you’re interested in grows well in your city.
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/California-Buckwheat.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jarek Tuszyński / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nIf you live in Southern or coastal California, consider California buckwheat. This plant grows on scrubby slopes, chaparral biomes, and dry washes. Its structure tends to be more compact in coastal areas and spread out in foothills. You can use some varieties as groundcovers. It produces clusters of leaves and small pink and white flowers from spring to fall.
\n\n\n\nCalifornia buckwheat attracts honey bees, butterflies, and other wildlife. It will shed its flowers and some (but not all) leaves in the dry season, creating a natural mulch. It’s low-maintenance and requires little irrigation once established. California buckwheat may also prevent erosion.
\n\n\n\nThis plant isn’t common in most of Northern California and the Central Valley. It isn’t suited for poorly-drained soils or temperatures below 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet across
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Loamy, well-drained soils with a pH between 5 and 8.5
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Extremely low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_5965186545_e6a73bf093_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: chuck b. / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso known as hummingbird flower or trumpet, the California fuchsia is found in foothills and coastal areas throughout the state. This plant is less common in the central valley and desert regions. It naturally grows near creeks and springs. Use it in gardens or as a ground cover.
\n\n\n\nCalifornia fuchsia produces bright red flowers from summer to fall that attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths. Their late summer blooms are particularly notable since many plants are past their peak by then. This species is easy to grow and able to reseed itself. It is also featured on many fire-resistant plant lists.
\n\n\n\nThough California fuchsia requires little supplemental water in the north, it will need some irrigation in southern and inland areas unless it is close to a wet area. If you live inland or in SoCal, water once a month to keep it alive. The plant may look less aesthetically pleasing once flowering is done in fall or winter. Cut back after the flowering season to improve its health and appearance in spring.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: ¼ to 1 ½ feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Winter semi-deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Clay and sand with a pH between 6 and 8; they also tolerate serpentine soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"Beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/1280px-Eschscholzia_californica_2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Epibase / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nMost California residents have beheld the beauty of the California poppy, the state’s flower. You can find them in fields all over the state, excluding altitudes above 6,500 feet. They have pale green foliage and orange or yellow flowers. California poppies bloom between February and September, though they close at night and during cold, windy, or cloudy weather.
\n\n\n\nCalifornia poppies are fast-growing and drought-tolerant. Water them twice a month at most in summer to keep them healthy and extend their blooming season. These flowers attract pollinators, birds, and small herbivores. You can easily collect and plant the seeds or let the flowers reseed naturally.
\n\n\n\nThough they have a long flowering period, they may bloom less in areas with extreme weather. California poppies are edible yet mildly toxic, depending on the consumer, amount, part eaten, and time of year. As a result, there may be better choices for parents and pet owners. Poppies can become a weed due to their rapid growth.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb or flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 inches to 2 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial in mild climates and annual in harsh conditions
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Summer deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained sandy soils; tolerates poor soil quality
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Mildly toxic if ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/California-Sagebrush.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NatureShutterbug / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe California or coastal sagebrush is an aromatic shrub found on the coast and foothills. The branches spread out from the base of the plant, creating a round shape. Some varieties work as groundcovers. The leaves are thin, branching, and grayish-green in color. It produces white or yellow flower clusters in spring, summer, and fall.
\n\n\n\nCalifornia sagebrush attracts the California gnatcatcher, a threatened bird species that eats small insects. The plant also appeals to quails, insects, reptiles, amphibians, and small mammals. This fast-growing shrub grows in dry areas where other plants perish and only needs water once a month in summer. Use it for erosion control on sloped properties.
\n\n\n\nThe Cahuilla and Chumash Native Americans historically used California sagebrush as medicine. Though there are no reported dangers for humans, toxins in the plant leech out during the rain and prevent other plants from growing below it. California sagebrush doesn’t tolerate temperatures lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit, so it’s best for coastal or Southern California.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 8 feet tall and 4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Summer deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Dry, sandy soils with a pH of 5 to 8; tolerates low fertility and clay soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Extremely low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Some toxicity towards other plants, but no known danger to humans or pets
\n\n\n\n![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yarrow-Achillea-Millefolium.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jitaeri / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThis plant has a dozen different names, including thousand-leaf and plumajillo. It naturally grows in the grasslands and open forests of Northern, Central, and Coastal Southern California. Common yarrow actively grows in spring and produces white or yellow flower clusters from mid to late spring.
\n\n\n\nButterflies, bees, and other insects are drawn to this fragrant plant. It’s easy to grow and needs water once a week at most in summer. Common yarrow tolerates sun and shade, making it a good fit for many yards. It can also survive temperatures as low as -15 degrees Fahrenheit. Use it for erosion control or as a ground cover.
\n\n\n\nBecause it reseeds itself easily, common yarrow can spread aggressively. Native Americans used it to stop bleeding, reduce fever, and lessen pain. However, be aware that it is toxic to animals and can cause photosensitivity and rashes in humans.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-8
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1 to 3 feet tall and ½ to 1 ½ feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen, summer deciduous, summer semi-deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, or full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Any as long as it’s not excessively moist; ideal pH is between 4 and 8
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Toxic to animals; may cause rashes or photosensitivity in humans
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Hummingbird-Sage.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Kirkhart / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHummingbird sage has upright stems that produce magenta flowers. It blooms from March to May. Its bright green leaves are slightly hairy and produce a pleasant aroma when touched or crushed. The plant is native to Southern and Central California, primarily along the coast and foothills. Cultivars include ‘Topanga’ and ‘Sunrise.’
\n\n\n\nYou guessed it — this plant is great for hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Hummingbird sage is a popular choice for gardens and groundcovers. It tolerates anything from full sun to full shade. You likely won’t need to water it at all in summer, though it may lose some leaves. Irrigate hummingbird sage a few times a month to keep it green all year.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that without its tall flower stalks, it will look shorter outside of the flowering season. Hummingbird sage has a limited range compared to other plants on this list. It does best in the coastal areas between the Monterey Peninsula and Carlsbad. It may also do well in some parts of the Bay Area, including the peninsula, San Francisco, East Bay, and North Bay.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7b-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4 inches to 3 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, or full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Various soils with a pH between 5 and 7
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Big-Berry-Manzanita-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Rusk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThere are several types of manzanita in California, but one of the most popular ones is the big berry manzanita. This shrub grows from the Bay Area down to the border on rocky slopes, flats, desert transition areas, and woodlands. It has light green waxy leaves. Clusters of white or pink bell-shaped flowers bloom in winter and spring. Its berries are the largest of any manzanita.
\n\n\n\nBig berry manzanita flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Other birds eat the round red fruits the shrub produces. Humans can also eat these berries. This shrub is drought tolerant almost to a fault. Water it around once a month once established, but be careful — direct water could kill the plant. Big berry manzanita is generally easy to grow but will be more difficult in dry areas like SoCal.
\n\n\n\nThis shrub has an unusual lifecycle. Not only can it live 100 years, but it won’t produce fruit until 20 years in. Even stranger, its seeds won’t germinate unless exposed to fire or sulfuric acid. The easiest way to propagate this plant is from cuttings. Plant it on rocky slopes, but avoid any south-facing slopes in dry areas because it gets too warm. Big berry manzanita is susceptible to leaf galls, though they aren’t severe.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or small tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3 ⅓ to 20 feet tall and 6 to 20 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Fast or medium-draining soils with a pH between 6 and 8
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: None known
\n\n\n\n![\"purpled](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Showy-Penstemon-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: peganum / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis plant is primarily found in Southern California’s chaparral, scrub, and woodlands. Its leaves grow in pairs on opposite sides of the stem. Within its first year, showy penstemon produces clusters of bluish-purple trumpet-shaped flowers that hummingbirds and wasps pollinate. It flowers in winter and spring.
\n\n\n\nShowy penstemon is quick-growing and easy to care for. Though it has a relatively short lifespan of five to ten years, its reseeding ability will allow new plants to pop up in your garden. It can handle a variety of soil textures.
\n\n\n\nThe amount of water needed depends on how well the soil retains water. If it retains water well, you may not need to supplement irrigation. You can water showy penstemon once a month for improved flowering, but it may shorten its lifespan. Plant it on a slight slope for improved drainage.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2 to 4 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained rocky, loamy, sandy, or clay soils with a pH between 6 and 7.5
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Very low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: No known danger
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/plant-fruit-berry-flower-food-red-443747-pxhere.com-1-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nAlso known as Christmas berry or California holly, this shrub is reportedly the namesake of Hollywood. It’s most at home in Western California and the Sierra foothills. It produces small white flower bunches in early summer that release a pleasant smell and attract butterflies and other insects. The red berries produced afterward feed birds and mammals.
\n\n\n\nToyon is drought-tolerant and easy to grow. It tolerates more water than other chaparral shrubs and does well near water sources or irrigated areas. The farther south you live, the more they benefit from shade. If you live in a colder part of California, they will tolerate temperatures as low as -5 degrees Fahrenheit. This plant is sometimes used for erosion control.
\n\n\n\nToyon berries are edible to humans. However, the unripe berries contain cyanogenic glycosides, which can become cyanide if consumed, similar to apple seeds. Cooking the berries is the safest way to consume them. This plant may not be the best choice for pet owners and parents unless you can supervise their activity carefully.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6 to 30 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Clay, sand, and serpentine soils with a pH between 5 and 8
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Extremely low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Edible but poisonous when unripe
\n\n\n\nMountains, deserts, beaches — California has it all. The variety of climates and geographical differences mean a native plant that does well in Southern California might not do well in Northern California. Before choosing a plant, confirm its suitability for your area. USDA hardiness zones are an excellent way to narrow down your choices. California contains zones 6 through 10.
\n\n\n\nEven within the same city, you may notice differences between your yard and other properties. The soil composition, slope, sun or shade, and presence of water sources can all make conditions more or less favorable. The University of California Cooperative Extensions can recommend commercial soil testing labs to check for pH and nutrient levels.
\n\n\n\nDon’t forget your garden goals. Do you want sweet-smelling wildflowers to attract bees and butterflies? Do you want to minimize water usage and fire risk? California is home to so many native plants that you should be able to find whatever you’re looking for.
\n\n\n\nMost California native species are adapted to low-water conditions. However, the following plants are especially drought-resistant:
● California buckwheat
● California sagebrush
● Toyon
If you need to stabilize a bank or reduce the risk of erosion, consider:
● California buckwheat
● California sagebrush
● Common yarrow
● Toyon
Yes. The California Native Plant Society has information on thousands of plant species native to the state. You can sort by a variety of factors to find what you need.
The safest plants for kids and pets won’t have spikes and aren’t poisonous when consumed. Of the plants we’re discussed, the following species don’t pose any known threat to humans or animals:
● California buckwheat
● California fuschia
● Hummingbird sage
● Big berry manzanita
● Showy penstemon
It takes time and effort to build a native garden. You’ll need to acquire the plants once you narrow your options by location and personal preference. You also can switch to a more suitable turfgrass to make your landscaping more drought-resistant.
\n\n\n\nA new plant here and there is manageable enough, but a complete yard transformation may be too much to handle with limited free time. Let Wikilawn connect you with a local landscaping company. These pros can help homeowners in Los Angeles, Fresno, San Francisco, and many other cities.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Joe Decruyenaere / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
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