![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Like many other Florida cities, Jacksonville has imposed watering restrictions. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the rules.
\n","content":"\nJust because we live next to an ocean, doesn’t mean we have access to unlimited water supplies. Fresh water is one of our most precious resources. That’s why there are watering restrictions in Jacksonville and many other cities in Florida. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the regulations.
\n\n\n\nWatering restrictions are enforced year-round in Jacksonville and throughout the 18 Northeast Florida counties in the St. Johns River Water Management District. You may water only on Saturday if your address ends in an odd number, and on Sunday if your address ends with an even number. You get an extra day during Daylight Saving Time (March-November). By limiting lawn watering, the hopes to conserve water during peak usage. Here’s a look at the summer schedule.
\n\n\n\nBut each year, when November arrives and you set back your clock an hour for Standard Time, your watering also must do a “fall back” to watering just once a week. That’s Saturday for odd-numbered addresses and Sunday for even-numbered addresses.
\n\n\n\nEven if it’s your day to water, you may not turn on the sprinklers between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. The reason? Most of the water ends up evaporating in the heat of the sun. You can turn the sprinklers on in the evening, but you could be inviting fungus and disease to your lawn since the grass will stay wet most of the night. The best time for watering is at sunup, first thing in the morning.
\n\n\n\nYou can water any day of the week if you’re using a handheld device like a hose. That doesn’t mean you can turn the hose on, lay it down, and let it run. You may also use “gray water,” (recycled bath or kitchen sink water). Areas of newly established landscaping may also be exempt.
\n\n\n\nViolating the watering or fertilization ordinances can cost you. The first offense results in a written warning. A second violation could get you a $50.00 ticket while a third violation could cost you more than $250.00.
\n\n\n\nThe Clean Water Act set forth by the City of Jacksonville also limits the amount of fertilizer that enters into the St. Johns River. Local retailers and property owners are also asked to be mindful of fertilizer treatments that could run off into the water supply. Required ground cover or landscaping that extends at least 6 feet around bodies of water help protect the water supply. Florida-Friendly landscaping, a program from the University of Florida Extension, stresses the use of native plants. Native plants need little water and are much easier to maintain.
\n\n\n\nThe St. Johns River Water Management District supplies North Florida with more than 540 million gallons of water a day. More than half of that is used in our landscapes. By following the watering restrictions in Jacksonville, we’ll keep the taps flowing for years to come.
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care in Jacksonville? Make sure to check our Jacksonville, FL lawn care page.
Regular mowing and watering can mean the difference between a thick, green lawn and one riddled with brown spots and disease. This monthly lawn care guide for Jacksonville will help you get started with the essentials.
\n","content":"\nBoth humans and plants appreciate the beautiful spring weather in Jacksonville. The sunshine draws turfgrass out of its winter dormancy, and it’ll start growing in full force before you know it. Warm-season grasses awaken from their winter slumber in March, picking up speed in April and May as temperatures rise.
\n\n\n\nNow’s the best time to assess your turf’s health. Did it suffer damage in the winter? Do you need to make any changes to its care? Get your lawn care off on the right foot with these 11 lawn care tips for Jacksonville so you can enjoy healthy, beautiful turf all summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you take a break from mowing in winter, it’s easy to let debris accumulate on the lawn. Thoroughly clean up the following, so you have a clean slate to work with:
\n\n\n\nWhen your lawn is clean, you can get a better look at your grass and be better able to assess its health.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Shredded leaves can make great mulch for your lawn. Here’s how to use them:
\n\n\n\nYou also can purchase a mulching mower to make this process more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you begin any spring lawn treatments, you should get a soil test. Soil tests reveal your soil’s pH levels. Most grasses prefer a pH between 5 and 6, though St. Augustinegrass can tolerate up to 7.5. If the soil pH is too high or low, it interferes with nutrient uptake. Florida’s soils tend to be acidic, but coastal properties may have more alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests also may show what nutrients are in your soil, so you don’t over or under-fertilize. However, not all tests cover nutrient analysis. Contact the University of Florida’s Duval County Extension Office or other soil testing lab to see their current offerings.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes your lawn feel a little spongy? It may have accumulated too much thatch. Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant matter on the soil’s surface. A little thatch is fine, but too much thatch (typically more than an inch) can suffocate your lawn and host pests and diseases. Use a thatch rake, dethatcher, or verticutter to remove this layer.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time to dethatch since your lawn has had some time to recover from winter and regain strength. However, you don’t necessarily need to dethatch every year. Most grass types can get by just fine with thatch removal every few years. The exceptions are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass, since they’re both prone to excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how often you should expect to dethatch the common grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | When to Dethatch |
| Bahiagrass | Rarely an issue |
| Bermudagrass | Once a year; best in summer to reduce recovery time |
| Centipedegrass | Dethatch when the thatch layer is more than ¼ inch |
| St. Augustinegrass | Dethatch when the layer exceeds 1 inch; best done in early spring or midsummer |
| Zoysiagrass | Every few years |
![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith the pleasant weather, you’re probably enjoying more fresh air than before. Believe it or not, your lawn wants to breathe some of that air, too. Compact soil makes it more difficult for air, water, and nutrients to reach your turf’s roots. Heavy clay soils are more prone to compaction, but even the sandy soil in North Florida can fall victim to compaction with enough foot traffic or heavy equipment use.
\n\n\n\nTo relieve soil compaction, aerate your lawn. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing your grass to spread out. Spike aeration also creates small holes for water, air, and nutrients but can ultimately cause the soil around the holes to become more compact. You can take advantage of the holes created by aeration to deliver seeds and fertilizer directly into the ground.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time for this invasive procedure because grass can bounce back quickly during its growing season. It’s also good to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. However, you don’t need to aerate every year. To see if you need aeration, push a screwdriver into the soil. If it’s difficult to do, your soil is compact and needs to be relieved.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Spraying-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour turfgrass may be one of many plants growing on your lawn this spring. Jacksonville is home to many troublesome weeds that compete for resources and affect curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nIf you can already see the weeds, then you need post-emergent herbicides. To get ahead of weeds that haven’t yet sprouted, apply pre-emergent herbicides. Always follow the labels to avoid killing your grass and polluting the local ecosystem. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially risky for newly seeded lawns. To minimize herbicide use, avoid excessive moisture and keep your grass dense and healthy to outcompete weeds naturally.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are categorized by type (broadleaf, grassy, sedges, or rushes) and lifecycle (annual, biennial, or perennial).
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have net-like veins on their broad leaves. They easily stand out from turfgrass, ruining the curb appeal of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some broadleaf weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat broadleaf weeds with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Mowing also helps control them, especially for lawns that aren’t well-established yet.
\n\n\n\nThese weeds have hollow, rounded stems. They can look quite similar to your existing grass, but they’re still a threat.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common grassy weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds are best controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. Goosegrass germinates later than other weeds, so you can wait to apply pre-emergent control for three or four weeks into March. Post-emergent herbicides for grassy weeds are few and far between because they often kill turfgrass, too.
\n\n\n\nRushes have solid round stems, and sedges have solid triangular stems. These weeds prefer moist soils, so avoid overwatering your lawn. Some sedges also like compacted soil because of the poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nSome sedges and rushes in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nCultural control is a good first step for sedges and rushes. Aerate to improve drainage and avoid overwatering. You may need repeated herbicide applications to rid yourself of nutsedges.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live and die in less than a year. There are two types: summer annuals and winter annuals. Winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass will be at the end of their lifecycle, but summer annuals are just getting started.
\n\n\n\nSummer annual weeds in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nThe winter annuals begin life in fall and die off by the end of spring, so you can decide whether to treat them now with post-emergent control or wait until they die on their own. You can get ahead of summer annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicide on the first of March or before temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for four to five days in a row.
\n\n\n\nCultural control is also effective for many annual weeds. Maintain a proper mowing, watering, and aeration schedule to discourage annual weeds.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a longer growing season of two years. During the first year, they will only show vegetative growth. By the second year, they will flower, then die after producing and spreading their seeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some Florida biennials:
\n\n\n\nBiennials are difficult to control in spring if they are seeding. If you remove or treat them with herbicides during their first year, you can halt their spread.
\n\n\n\nUnlike annuals and biennials, perennials can stick around for three or more years if not treated.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials you could find in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause perennials reseed and regrow each year, post-emergent herbicides are most effective. It is easier to control perennials in the fall when they aren’t growing as aggressively.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven healthy grass can fall victim to hungry pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in spring:
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: These scarab beetle larvae eat the roots of all grass types and are found underground. You can check to see if you have them by pulling back a one-square-foot flap of turf. If it lifts easily, it’s probably because the grubs have eaten the roots. Dead turf caused by these pests usually isn’t visible until late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: Appearing in spring and fall, these caterpillars create brown damaged spots in lawns. They particularly like bermudagrass. You can control fall armyworms with pesticides, but they may inadvertently kill their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs: St. Augustinegrass is particularly vulnerable to chinch bugs. They create yellow and brown damage patches that often appear in drought-stressed parts of your lawn. Spring pesticide applications, dethatching, and reducing fertilizer use can help prevent these pests.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs: Check your zoysia and bermudagrass for yellow coloring and easy-to-pull-up grass. This damage from hunting billbugs may be misdiagnosed as drought or disease. Keep your grass well-watered to withstand infestation, and use pesticides when there are more than ten billbugs per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinter sometimes leaves an unpleasant surprise in your lawn: disease. Lawn diseases are usually caused by fungi and cause discoloration and death. If untreated, you could spread the disease with your lawn mower. You’ll need to identify the disease before you can begin treatment. Let’s review some common lawn diseases homeowners encounter in spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease creates discolored turfgrass patches around 1 foot to several feet in diameter. Dark rot infects the lowest part of the leaf, though not the roots. It is especially problematic for St. Augustine and zoysiagrass lawns but can affect all grass types grown in Jacksonville. Look for large patch throughout spring when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nFungicides like azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, fludioxonil, flutolanil, and iprodione will stop the spread. However, it’s better to prevent it in the first place with proper lawn maintenance practices. Water in the morning to avoid leaving the grass excessively wet. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizer instead of quick-release, so you don’t fuel the fungus.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot slows down growth and makes lawns look thinner. Look for small, oval-shaped olive green or brown spots with dark borders. These spots will produce spores when humidity is high. This fungal disease most often affects St. Augustinegrass but also afflicts centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot doesn’t always cause serious problems. However, you can apply fungicides and plant-available silicon before sprigging to suppress gray leaf spot. Avoid compacted soil, overwatering, and quick-release nitrogen. The herbicide atrazine can put St. Augustinegrass at risk if it’s applied when temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease affects St. Augustinegrass lawns in late spring and early summer when rainfall is frequent. The grass is more likely to fall victim if soil fertility is low and light is scarce. Look for dark brown leaf spots and oblong lesions similar to those caused by gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Cercospora leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nUse slow-release nitrogen and potassium fertilizer to prevent Cercospora leaf spot. If the grass is already infected, apply fertilizer with quick-release nitrogen and potassium with a ratio of one to one. Water early in the morning (before 8 a.m.) to avoid long wet periods, and only when the grass shows signs of dehydration. Consider the Bitterblue cultivar for a more resistant St. Augustinegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe silver dollar size of the round, straw-colored patches give this disease its name, though the patches can grow much larger. Look for small, pale lesions on the grass blades. Turfgrass may become thin and more susceptible to weeds. Dollar spot is common in spring and fall and does best when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nKeep grass hydrated, as low soil moisture makes dollar spot worse. Provide sufficient nitrogen through fertilizer to improve resistance — too little makes the grass vulnerable, but too much can promote dollar spot and other diseases. Keep on top of other cultural practices like dethatching and aeration to keep grass healthy enough to fight this disease. Use fungicides if cultural control doesn’t help.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough typically harmless, slime molds coat grass blades with unappealing spores and growths. Some may look like soot while others look like blobs. Slime molds appear in spring when the weather is warm and wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime mold:
\n\n\n\nSmile mold doesn’t technically require control. You can let it disappear naturally and your grass will be fine since the mold only sits on the surface. However, you can remove it with mowing or a strong stream of water.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is thinner than you’d like, it may benefit from overseeding. You can evenly spread the seeds over the whole lawn or target specific areas that are particularly thin. If your lawn has bare patches, consider sprigs, plugs, or sod to fill the area instead.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting more grass, make sure you’ve addressed any underlying issues. If overirrigation, poor soil quality, disease, pest infestation, or other improper care is the root cause of your thin grass, new grass won’t solve the problem. Proper lawn maintenance may make grass grow denser naturally, especially as the peak growing season approaches.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to renovate or repair your lawn, here are the best times to establish each grass type.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting (in Fahrenheit) | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Jacksonville |
| Bahiagrass | 77 – 86 | March – June |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | March – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | April – July |
| St. Augustinegrass* | 65 – 80 | March – May |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | April – July |
*St. Augustine can’t be established with seeds, so the above information applies to sod, plugs, and sprigs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass can best utilize nutrients when they’re actively growing. Use the results of your soil test to guide your purchases in the fertilizer aisle. The best fertilizers for Jacksonville lawns have slow-release nitrogen and little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nFlorida soils tend to be high in phosphorus but keep an eye out for phosphorus deficiency just in case. Symptoms include reduced growth and dark green shoots that turn purple.
\n\n\n\nThe middle of April is the best time to fertilize your lawn. If you fertilize too soon or too much, it can lead to fertilizer runoff and harmful algal blooms in local waterways like the St. John’s River. You also should avoid fertilizing when there’s a hurricane, tropical storm, or flooding warning, so those nutrients don’t go down the drain.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour winter break from mowing was nice, but now you’ll need to dust off the mower and get to work. First, take care of any mower maintenance:
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, check the condition of your weed eater.
\n\n\n\nOnce your tools are ready, measure your grass. You don’t want to cut your grass too short, or it could affect its health. Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade at once. Doing so will damage the grass and hinder its growth. Here are the ideal mowing heights for common Jacksonville grass types:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Your grass won’t reach its peak growth rate until summer, so you only need to mow once or twice a week during spring. Use its current height as your guide, and mow more frequently when you notice its growth rate increasing.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverwatering your lawn can have worse consequences than underwatering, as it encourages diseases and weeds. The University of Florida recommends homeowners irrigate on an as-needed basis to avoid overwatering and wastage. Only irrigate only when you see signs of dehydration, such as:
\n\n\n\nYou will likely need to water your lawn once or twice a week in spring, depending on rainfall. The spring showers in Jacksonville will likely save you time and lower your water bill.
\n\n\n\nMost Jacksonville lawns require ½ to ¾ inch of water at a time. Here are specific recommendations based on grass type:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Amount of Water per Application (in Inches) |
| Bahiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Bermudagrass | ¾ – 1 |
| Centipedegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| St. Augustinegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Zoysiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
The best grass types for Jacksonville are:
• Bahiagrass
• Bermudagrass
• Centipedegrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
All these grasses are warm-season grasses, which means they grow best when temperatures are warm. The bulk of your lawn care will be in summer, but you still need to care for your lawn in spring and fall to prepare it for the changing seasons.
If your current grass type isn’t working, you can try overseeding it with another to see how it fares. If your current grass type is doing well, it’s probably best to stick with what you’ve got.
Some people overseed their lawns in fall with cool-season species like perennial ryegrass to extend its green color during winter.
For the first mow of the season, consider cutting your grass a bit shorter to eliminate old grass and debris. However, you shouldn’t cut off too much, or you could damage the grass. Make sure always to keep the grass height within the recommended guidelines. Feel free to raise your mowing height gradually as the season progresses.
Weed and feed products are not as effective as using each product individually. Pre-emergent herbicides are best applied around March 1 in North Florida, while fertilizer should wait until around April 15.
Do you want to spend your spring on yard work? This season is the perfect time to visit the beach before the summer tourists arrive. Leave lawn care to a Jacksonville professional, and they’ll ensure your lawn is prepped for its peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.9077901430842608,"src":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/107df/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/293e9/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/f2cbb/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/c26c2/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/67b76/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/8df11/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/98a65/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/3cc96/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spring is when your North Florida lawn picks up speed. Set your Jacksonville lawn up for success with these spring lawn care tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"db4bbe6f-b5b3-5704-b201-6f49ba0d1a10","slug":"native-plants-in-minneapolis","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/native-plants-in-minneapolis/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Descendant of the Fulani tribe, Gettysburg-obsessed Marine Corps brat, and lover of all things writing and editing, Andréa Butler has penned articles for Sesi magazine and sites, such as LivingSocial, Talbot Digital, Xickle, and Rachel Ray. Andréa holds a B.A. in English from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and an M.A. in magazine journalism from Kent State University.","name":"Andréa Butler","id":"dae2e109-3ba9-5073-a19a-e341e567190e","path":"/author/andrea-butler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c671545b46efb40d2596d32a775f26a1?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"August 5th, 2019","excerpt":"These are the flowers that have grown here before the first European settlers arrived. Here are some popular native wildflowers, shrubs and trees in Minneapolis.
\n","content":"\nYou love checking out the arts scene and getting a bite to eat over by Central and Lowry, but your most favorite pastime in all the City of Lakes is taking in the wildflower garden at Theodore Wirth Regional Park. Emulate those relaxing vibes by planting your own native garden at home. We’ve rounded up 9 of the best native plants for Minneapolis to start you off.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Northern-Blazing-Star.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Doug McGrady / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSprouting from stems with spiral, narrow, green leaves that are larger at the base and smaller toward the top, these wildflowers give off disc-shaped blooms of pink, purple, or white that grow on a cylindrical ‘spike’, making them the perfect addition to butterfly gardens and drought-tolerant gardens.
\n\n\n\nWith 40-plus species — including “Rough Blazing Star” (liatris aspera) and Meadow Blazing Star (liatris ligulistylis) — there’s sure to be a type fit for your landscape.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Moist clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly for new plants; once established water as needed; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 5 feet, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow, green leaves with a spiral look; larger at stem’s bottom, smaller toward the top
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant
\n\n\n\n![\"pink](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Prairie_Onion_13182350343.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Justin Meissen / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nNamed for the oniony scent that comes from its grasslike leaves, the prairie onion is a totally edible plant that’s easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and resistant to deer and rabbits. Blooming from a solitary stem, the up to 2-inch round, umbrella-shaped cluster of lavender-pink or white flowers displays its beauty for three weeks, typically in July and August. Plant with low-growing selections, as prairie onions do not grow well with taller, more invasive species.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Bulb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 7
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Well-drained; sandy, rocky, silt
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Oniony smell
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Occasionally, when soil is dry; otherwise, regular rain should be sufficient
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Narrow and grasslike; emits the onion smell
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, resistant to deer and rabbits
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5992418976_afc9bf5fe7_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Headquarters / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nConsidered fully established by year two of growth from seed, wild bergamot can be naturally found along roadsides, in meadows, and on prairies. It’s easy to grow and unbothered by invasive plants and poor soil conditions. Prized for its rounded clumps of tubular blooms that exhibit purple, pink, or white flowers from June to August, this plant will for sure bring all the bees (hummingbirds and butterflies) to the yard.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Shallow, rocky soil or clay that’s moist, well-drained, or dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: A blend of mint and oregano emitted from foliage
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Natural rainfall should be sufficient; withstands dry soil for a while
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green to grayish-silver with serrated edges; hairy underside, while top can be smooth or hairy; edible
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; drought-tolerant, deer- and rabbit-resistant
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/black-eyed-susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nBecause they bloom throughout the spring and summer, black-eyed Susans are ideal for planting as pathway borders, in container gardens, or in butterfly gardens. Due to their coarse, hairy leaf texture, these plants are naturally deer-resistant.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, sand, loam, acidic, moist, well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Depending on growing conditions can act as a biennial, annual, or short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Sweet
\n\n\n\nBloom time: Spring, summer, early autumn
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium. It has moderate drought tolerance
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet.
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low. Can self-seed freely. Black-eyed Susan can become aggressive if given too perfect an environment and insufficient competition.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red_Columbine_3630187830.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jason Hollinger / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nKnown for its red or yellow bell-shaped blossoms, this perennial flowers from May to July. While there’s no scent to this plant, its nectar attracts hummingbirds, bees, and other pollinators. Ideal for rock gardens, shade gardens, and as an accent plant, red columbine is resistant to deer and most insects; however, leafminers may cause cosmetic damage and duskywing caterpillars can be found feeding on the blue-green leaves.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, dry-ish
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Weekly or whenever soil is completely dry
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 3 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Blue-green leaves grow in groups of three
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Moderately flammable/risk of fire
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; deadhead blooms as needed, cut back in late summer
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Amorpha_fruticosa_kz05.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nAn ornamental shrub, false indigo works great as a privacy screen/windbreaker or border plant. Easy-to-grow from seed and deer-resistant — deer don’t like the velvety texture of the oblong leaves — this plant gives off purple, blue, or gold/yellow flowers from April to June and attracts butterflies and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil; moist or somewhat wet to somewhat dry
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Light, vanilla scent
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 4 to 15 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Oblong green or gray/silver leaves that are velvety to the touch
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May contain alkaloids that are poisonous to animals
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low; prune in late winter to early spring to maintain shape
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/800px-Geranium_maculatum_11zz.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David J. Stang / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nFrequently chosen as a ground cover plant, wild geranium’s star-shaped blooms, which show themselves from May through June, mainly come in lavender, blue, red, and pink, fading to white at the base. Groundcover plants can take the place of traditional lawn grass, making for a low-maintenance yard that not only cuts the need for mowing but also helps control erosion and weeds. Wild geranium attracts pollinators, too, and you can even make tea from its flowers.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering ground cover
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3 to 11
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay, silt, high organic matter, or sandy soil that’s well-drained, moist, or somewhat wet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Spring and summer
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Water regularly
\n\n\n\nMature height: 1 to 2 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green, compound, hand-shaped leaves with serrated edges; hairy on both sides
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/1118557967_739ba55795_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anna / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLong used as flavoring in salads and teas (plus, its seeds can be used to bake cakes, cookies, and muffins), blue giant hyssop heralds the arrival of summer with tall spikes that bear clusters of blue or purple blooms, punctuated by green-gray leaves with serrated edges. In addition to being cold-hardy, this perennial attracts pollinators but repels deer and rabbits.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flowering herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 5 to 9
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Silt, shallow rocky, or sandy soil that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; similar to anise or licorice
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer through fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low/infrequent
\n\n\n\nMature height: 2 to 4 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green with gray, hairy underside and serrated edges
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/5127417271_cac902529b_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Joshua Mayer / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for an end-of-summer showstopper, New England aster is the one to pick. Blooming from August through October, this native wildflower can grow 6 feet tall and sprouts ostentatious, ray flowers outfitted with up to 100 individual purple or pink petals surrounding a yellow, button center. Perfect for rain gardens and butterfly gardens, New England aster also boasts oblong leaves that are rough to the touch on top with a soft underside of fine hairs.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4 to 8
\n\n\n\nSun: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil: Clay or high organic matter that’s well-drained
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFragrance: Yes; of turpentine when crushed
\n\n\n\nBloom Time: Summer and fall
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Medium; water well in the absence of rain
\n\n\n\nMature height: 3 to 7 feet
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Green oblong leaves; top layer rough to touch/underside is soft and covered in fine hairs
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: N/A; nontoxic
\n\n\n\nMaintenance: Low once established; deer-resistant
\n\n\n\nBesides assessing your yard for sunlight, soil conditions, and existing plant life, you can find inspiration for specific types of native plants that’ll thrive in your yard by visiting local sites (like Wood Lake Nature Center and Nokomis Naturescape Garden), studying local planting books/magazines, and consulting with a nearby landscaping expert.
\n\n\n\nFirmly situated in USDA Hardiness Zone 4b, Minneapolis can have extreme lows of -25 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter months. Native plants are adapted to this type of climate; however, if you plan to include any non-native specimens in your garden, definitely double check the climate zones they can survive in before planting.
\n\n\n\nSince our final frost typically isn’t until late May, it’s best to hold off on planting until June. Be sure to check the guidelines of the specific plants you’re looking to install in your landscape, though, too–– they’ll give a more precise timeline.
Choosing to cultivate a native plant garden (one that only grows plants that occur naturally in the geographic area) helps preserve biodiversity. A few other benefits:
• Keeps plants thriving, as they’re already accustomed to area growing conditions
• Conserves water because native plants can generally do well with local rainfall patterns
• Deep roots prevent soil compaction/recycle stormwater runoff
• Attracts pollinators — native bees, hummingbirds, etc. already know which local plants provide the food they need
Native plants are adapted to the rainfall of the region and are pretty low maintenance when it comes to watering. During a plant’s first growing season, water weekly; after that, area rainfall should be sufficient, as native plants are typically drought-tolerant.
There are more than 2,100 plants native to Minnesota alone, and there’s a bevy of garden stores nearby that stay stocked with them — from goldenrod and honeysuckle to penstemon, sedges, spiderwort, and all the ones detailed above. Here are just a few spot to get your shopping started:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve purchased your haul, consult a local lawn care pro to keep your yard looking gorgeous. They’ll assist with mowing, edging, hedge trimming, leaf removal, and the like, so nothing will overshadow your native plant garden. Then, sit back and enjoy the beautiful colors, scents, and pollinating visitors.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Black Eyed Susan / Garry Knight / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"9 Best Native Plants for Minneapolis","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1789c/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/107df/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/293e9/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/f2cbb/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1789c/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/c26c2/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1dd6e/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/67b76/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 320w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/8df11/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 500w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/98a65/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 800w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/1dd6e/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 960w,\n/static/bf49e2b128a0beef87de1d96e083caf0/3cc96/48860292107_f132194844_k-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"9 Best Native Plants for Minneapolis | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want to create a thriving, low maintenance garden? Check out the native plants in minneapolis that need little water or care to brighten up your landscape."}}},{"node":{"id":"c5da6dd7-c54c-5ce7-8e9d-a3ca7921f293","slug":"worst-weeds-minneapolis","path":"/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/worst-weeds-minneapolis/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Bradley is a botanist who experiments with native plants from every region in the U.S. She’s dedicated to companion planting without the use of pesticides. Her own garden is filled with a variety of colors and textures.","name":"Danielle Bradley","id":"7329a804-3158-5b9f-94fc-835a4923557a","path":"/author/danielle-bradley/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a840af9ee5b616963d15a622658e9612?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9badf8d4-14ba-5471-aa78-425360d9330e","name":"Minneapolis","count":5,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/minneapolis/"},{"id":"559d4c6e-5b85-5b4a-86c3-1f1a5351df4b","name":"Minnesota","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/mn/"}],"date":"August 2nd, 2019","excerpt":"Knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n","content":"\nLawn work is hard work, and the last thing you want is weeds to come and mess up your hard work. But knowledge is power and the sooner you know your enemy, the sooner you can kill those weeds. Here are some of the worst weeds in Minneapolis — and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let the wild violet’s charming name fool you! The wild violet (pictured above) grows quickly and aggressively and is resistant to a lot of weedkillers. You’ll usually find it in the shade, and it likes moist soil. It is a pretty plant, with waxy, heart-shaped leaves and small lavender-blue blossoms, but if you find it in your yard, you’ll probably get over its looks pretty quickly as it spreads. It is a perennial broadleaf weed with a long taproot, so you’ll want a weedkiller that targets broadleaf weeds, killing them but leaving your grass unharmed.
\n\n\n\nThe black medic is an annual clover and grows well in compacted soil. You’ll be able to tell black medic from other clovers because its pom-pom flowers are yellow. This weed often sprouts up next to sidewalks or other areas that are compacted by traffic. Getting rid of it may be as simple as aerating your lawn. It’s also easy to hand-weed, because black medic is a central-growing plant, making it easier to get at the root than other weeds. Chemical weed killers also do a good job of eradicating this plant.
\n\n\n\nCreeping charlie, aka ground ivy, is unmistakable. This weed has round, coin-shaped leaves with frilly edges. Minneapolis is not alone in the fight against creeping charlie; this is an invasive species that has made itself at home throughout much of the continental United States. If you catch it early, in the spring, you can pull it by hand — but make sure you get all of it because this is a fast and easy grower. If you catch it later, you might be better off putting down a fall herbicide in your lawn to completely eradicate creeping charlie.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/dandelion-flickr-1-1024x768.jpg\")
The dandelion has some uses — its leaves can be added to your salad and its central root can be dried and made into a tea. But for most people, the dandelion and its cheery yellow blossoms are a common weed, and one that can be hard to eliminate. If any part of the dandelion, especially that thick central taproot, is left behind, the plant can grow back and proliferate. Experts recommend pulling what you can, and feeding your lawn to make it thick enough to crowd out dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. Applying a pre-emergent weed killer in the spring will help keep dandelions to a minimum as well.
\n\n\n\nThere are dozens of weeds that will try to take advantage of Minneapolis’ sweet but all-too-short summer. This lists off some of the worst of them, so you can eradicate them quickly — and spend more time in your yard relaxing, instead of working.
\n\n\n\nLooking for more lawn care information and tips? Be sure to check our Minneapolis lawn care page.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Liz West, Flickr
There are no current watering restrictions in Kansas City, which gets an abundant supply of water from the Missouri River. But conservation is still a good idea.
\n","content":"\nUnlike many other cities across the United States, Kansas City is in a fortunate position when it comes to water supply. The Missouri River provides an abundance of water flowing through the metropolitan area — more than enough to provide for Kansas City’s drinking and irrigation needs, without the need for water restrictions.
\n\n\n\nBut during hot, dry summers and periods of unexpected drought, the KC Water division will put the kibosh on your watering plans. While the city can usually handle its water needs, you’ll want to keep your eyes and ears open for news of any watering restrictions in Kansas City, Mo.
\n\n\n\nThe city treats and distributes water to 170,000 residences and businesses in greater Kansas City, as well as 32 wholesale customers in the metro area. The water division is now working on system development plans for expected growth within the region.
\n\n\n\nMunicipalities within a short drive from KC are likely to have watering restrictions when water treatment facilities hit their near-capacity for several days in a row. This sometimes happens in Gardner, Kansas. When the Hillsdale Water Treatment Facility operates at more than 90 percent capacity for five days straight, Gardner will issue the following mandatory water cutbacks:
\n\n\n\nLawn watering and car washing for even-numbered addresses are OK in Gardner before 10 a.m. and after 9 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. Homeowners whose addresses end in odd numbers may water on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. When it comes to refilling a swimming pool, you can do that only one evening a week after sunset. Want to completely fill a privately owned pool? That will have to wait until the city lifts the watering ban.
\n\n\n\nNearby Cameron, Mo., has seen its share of drought during the last few summers. Even with four reservoirs, mandatory water restrictions go into effect during these droughts and high usage. Cameron is part of the Tri-State Water Resource Coalition, which is building new water lines for surrounding areas.
\n\n\n\nIt’s easy to forget that water is a precious resource. There are several ways to preserve this liquid gold:
\n\n\n\nA single person uses about 100 gallons of water a day to drink, bathe, perform personal hygiene, and clean their house. That number goes up significantly when you water the lawn or fill the swimming pool.
\n\n\n\nThe best reason to conserve water is so that we don’t run out. This is a community-wide effort because it’s easy to assume the tap will continue to flow, even in severe drought. Your water company does its best to fulfill demand, but it cannot control the weather. Another reason to cut back on water and energy usage is more tangible. Who doesn’t want lower utility bills?
\n\n\n\nYour water division is working on long-term projects to improve the water main lines. Updating the infrastructure of KC includes improving sewers and wastewater treatment. The city gets its drinking water from the Missouri River and surrounding floodplain. It’s cleaned and sanitized from lawn fertilizers, oil, dirt, pet waste and whatever other pollutants it picks up along the way.
\n\n\n\nIf you have questions about Kansas City tap water, or if there are restrictions in place, the division is open during regular business hours.
\n\n\n\nDo you have questions about lawn care and gardening in Kansas City? Visit our Kansas City lawn care page.
If you have pests in your Kansas City backyard — and chances are you do — you can take these steps to zap them or send them scampering off.
\n","content":"\nFleas, ticks, wasps, ants, spiders, mosquitoes — you name the pest, and Kansas City has it. The same balmy summers that make for thick lawns and backyard barbeques come with the unwanted byproduct of bugs. The worst backyard pests in Kansas City have six legs (or more), can sting or bite or, at the very least, look disgusting!
\n\n\n\nIf you have backyard intruders — and chances are you do — you can take steps to zap them or send them scampering off. Let’s look at the worst of the lot.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/sRuIDQ728DZkPno9fMw9DnM0E2w1J-U1s44Q6hd8bEqYXLsEzh2gbH77-l_oV_yuzMXJG9fFWdOZw4dxxE2-cAX-ZsXFYTYmnPfBs-enLhKWQPOj5uCWhobFf3I9j3lr8jLnvTiu\")
This bloodsucker makes the top of the list because ticks transmit more diseases to humans than any other insect — and Missouri has them. The most common here, the American dog tick, carries Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Lyme disease, and other infections. Ticks can make pets sick and kill them, and as temperatures warm, we’re seeing more of them. The CDC reports double the cases of tick-borne diseases in the past 10 years. Keeping them out of your yard is a top priority. Bifen IT, Onslaught, and Permethrin help control ticks outdoors. Keeping a well-maintained yard is also crucial.
\n\n\n\nThey buzz, and you swat. They land, and you slap. Beyond being irritating, this flying insect also carries disease. West Nile Virus, though relatively rare, can be deadly. Add to the list zika, malaria, and dengue fever, and it’s no wonder mosquitoes rank as the deadliest creature on the planet. The best preventative steps are to keep your yard clean and do not leave standing water where larvae hatch. Consider a commercial spray that contains sodium lauryl sulfate. DEET products work on skin and clothing.
\n\n\n\nWant to avoid chemicals? Surround your patio or deck with mosquito-repelling plants. The scent of petunias, mint, lavender, and chrysanthemums really bugs mosquitoes. They also hate rosemary, thyme, cilantro, and garlic.
\n\n\n\nUsually mentioned in the same breath as ticks, this tiny parasite likes the shady and moist areas of your yard. Because they feed on any warm-blooded creature, they will quickly attach to your dog, your cat, you, your kids, and your backyard guests. Left untreated, fleas can kill your pet. Flea-transmitted disease in people is rare in the U.S., but doctors are seeing more of them. This lowliest of creatures was responsible for wiping out half the population of Europe in the Black Death of the 14th century. Sprays, powders, pet collars, and ointments are readily available. Look for ones containing carbonyl.
\n\n\n\nWhen these armed insects are around, we don’t care if they’re a wasp, a hornet, a yellow jacket, or a dirt dauber. We just know they sting, it hurts, and we don’t want them on our property. They belong to the insect order of Apocrita and 58 varieties call Missouri home. The best way to be rid of them is with sprays containing tetramethrin. The task is best left to the bravest and fastest member of the family because when the spray hits the nest, they’re going to come out, well — mad as a hornet.
\n\n\n\nA word about bees and wasps. Although bees are from the same family as wasps, they’re less aggressive unless their hives are threatened. Otherwise, they’re content buzzing around and performing the crucial job of pollinating flowers. Since these bugs are essential to our food chain, it’s best to call a beekeeper if you find a hive. The aggressive Africanized or “killer” bee has not made its way to Missouri. And while wasps may bug you, they also eat the pests that feed on your vegetable plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Yi3CxzB1LG2HfbUuN95nw1cVBz_ZOcjC2qRFuOhDeU8YVcMxmNDfcYOm5rjfzv_NqgcTWUJ6FxvLWwxdaYpdoGhAKRRLez8RsuKNGukdJs_ZBydETaYKroZk5OT3aBaun_p58xmc\")
Like Rodney Dangerfield, spiders “don’t get no respect.” Even though most of them rid our yards of flies, mosquitoes, and cockroaches, their reputation is sullied by a few bad eggs. Think the black widow and the brown recluse, which bite can hurt you. The black widow is common across Missouri and likes to hide under rocks, logs, and in your garden shed. The brown recluse, which also calls Missouri home, prefers to hang out in your closet or sock drawer. A direct shot of commercial bug spray will kill a spider, but because they’re arachnids rather than insects, routine bug sprays won’t keep them away. A smack with a flyswatter does just as good.
\n\n\n\nYou can control the worst backyard pests in Kansas City with pesticides and with some homemade natural remedies. But when you feel your family’s health is at risk — call in the pros!
Looking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Kansas City? Visit our Kansas City Lawn Care page.