![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/fcNBs9w0kiEvpbUOnR7r43z6tw-zF-lvfwWuGn0NbB0cdXKk4yoTO5EYjDlH8h_NLEoyQrWI8ytgzYLSNIs2zRHIzjKvRSdBvjfpXuvmEY-_AZwbx-MCI42S9JGHMprPbTVZgzqJ\")
At one time or another, we all deal with grass pains. The distress signal from our lawn seems to get louder in heat, humidity, and rain. From crabgrass to brown spots, there’s a variety of lawn diseases that could be killing the grass. Some require a professional to diagnose them while others give off tell-tale […]
\n","content":"\nAt one time or another, we all deal with grass pains. The distress signal from our lawn seems to get louder in heat, humidity, and rain. From crabgrass to brown spots, there’s a variety of lawn diseases that could be killing the grass. Some require a professional to diagnose them while others give off tell-tale signs, making them easy to identify. Once you identify them, treating lawn diseases is easy.
\n\n\n\nSome lawn diseases can point to a more serious issue, such as poor drainage or pests on your property. The best defense against any fungal disease is a good offense with proper lawn care.
\n\n\n\nBy maintaining a healthy lawn, you give disease little chance to invade. Here are the most common lawn diseases to watch out for.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll know you have take-all root rot when you see yellow grass with irregular shaped thinning. This disease also shows darker grass blades due to poor air circulation and improper watering. The root rot usually appears in Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, or Zoysiagrass lawns. Take-All Root Rot can affect your lawn in every season and will spread to the rest of the yard if not treated immediately. Young-ki Jo, a plant pathology specialist with the Texas A&M extension office says take-all root rot shows up when turfgrass is under stress. “Areas that remain wet are prone to the disease. Improve the drainage, and avoid overwatering. It is better to water infrequently but deeply (6 to 8 inches deep) than to give the grass frequent, shallow watering.” He also suggests raking out the areas of dead grass and adding peat moss. The peat moss will alter the pH level of the soil, and the root rot should dissipate.
\n\n\n\nBrown patch begins with dead rings of grass on the lawn. Also known as large patch, this lawn disease is easy to spot when you notice the donut shapes holes, with new grass growing in the center. St. Augustine lawns are the most prone to this blight which can spread up to 50 square feet from its origin. You can prevent the problem with yearly aeration and by not overwatering. While fertilizing is crucial, overdoing it can be deadly for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSmall brown patches in the lawn are your first sign of dollar spot. This fungus is well known in the recreational turf industry and is becoming a more significant problem for homeowners as well. Dollar Spot can target both cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses, but it tends to enjoy fescues, ryegrass, Bermuda, and zoysia grasses. This grass disease can show up anytime between late spring to late fall after a stretch of wet conditions. Dollar Spot loves high humidity making it a common problem in southern states. Applying a fungicide to the circular patches is your best bet. To prevent it from returning, make sure to adjust your mower to a higher cutting level and water your lawn deeply but less often.
\n\n\n\n![\"Image](\"https://live.staticflickr.com/1694/26266331395_484179cba7_b.jpg\")
This fuzzy gray substance looks like a science experiment gone wrong. Powdery mildew is the collective name fort a group of fungi that can attach to the grass and plants. You’ll first notice a few white or grey round spots that are easy to wipe away. However, the mildew will quickly take over which can cause significant stress to the grass plant.
\n\n\n\nPowdery mildew won’t kill a plant or lawn right away, but it will choke the plant over time. You’ll notice powdery mildew on the lawn during the heat of the summer when conditions are dry. Prune affected plants and create more airflow around the leaves. Spray the areas with water to wash away the mildew and use a fungicide if needed.
\n\n\n\nYou can thank humid weather and wet conditions in the summer for this disease, Perdue University Plant pathologist Richard Latin says. “Pythium blight outbreaks are especially damaging to creeping bentgrass, annual bluegrass, rough bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. The Pythium fungus can infect Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, but the disease is limited and turf is rarely damaged.” It starts with circles of blackened grass blades and expands into wet areas on the lawn. It spreads quickly in shady areas and in compacted soil. Mowing while the grass is wet only makes the problem worse. To prevent Pythium blight, it’s best to apply a fungicide at the beginning of summer.
\n\n\n\nLawn diseases are not the end of the world, but it is important to understand what you’re dealing with, so you can prevent them from spreading. Understanding what the disease is and the associated treatment will help you understand if there are any hidden costs or if you need to hire a professional to help remedy the issue.
\n","title":"How to Treat 5 Common Lawn Diseases","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/1789c/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/107df/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg 320w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/293e9/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg 500w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/f2cbb/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg 800w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/1789c/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg 960w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/356ef/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/1dd6e/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/67b76/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp 320w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/8df11/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp 500w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/98a65/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp 800w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/1dd6e/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp 960w,\n/static/6d0c474ba761b713cdd6dd3779972ae6/93f70/Pennisetum_clandestinum_yellowing_fungul_disease-wikimedia.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Treat 5 Common Lawn Diseases | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"d83f622e-8d9b-5590-8f22-0eca0edf7db0","slug":"lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional","path":"/blog/lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"October 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"The rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed. The last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do […]
\n","content":"\nThe rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed.
\n\n\n\nThe last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do it yourself, or are you better off hiring a professional? Here are the pros and cons of DIY lawn aeration vs. hiring a professional.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/n7T7g8yk7QfRDitctwYmrgWDu6JdJtS1R0C6zsHPi2CqZ9RNjN6BBQnT5-QVR1pCoIRVR0NIdYzubLglXEQpi4QTZiEsENmgcnxo2QBiuAJQkv6glwSjZgUJszbfVs-5V6LfWSAB\")
Your lawn may need to be aerated for any of several reasons. First among them: compaction, when the soil particles are pressed together into a smaller area. Soil compaction leaves less room for air and water to get to the roots.
\n\n\n\nIt is common in areas that have clay soil, or on new lawns where construction activity tamps down the soil, or any lawn that gets a lot of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nA thick layer of thatch can also be a reason to aerate. Thatch is the natural organic matter between the soil and the green blades of grass. A little thatch is necessary and healthy for your lawn. Too much thatch can lead to pest problems and prevent water and air from getting to the grass roots. If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, you may have too much thatch. Bend low and inspect: If the matted brown layer under your green grass blades is more than a half-inch, you may need to aerate.
\n\n\n\nAeration removes pokes holes in your lawn, allowing precious air and water to get down into the roots. It can also loosen the soil, and encourage the grass roots to grow deeper and spread, making your lawn healthier.
\n\n\n\nAerate during the peak of your lawn’s growing season. Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass should be aerated in the spring, and early fall, but warm-season grasses such as St. Augustinegrass need aerating in the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nStart with soil that’s not too dry. Aerating the day after a rain, or after watering is best.
\n\n\n\nDon’t clean up the plugs of soil; leave them to break down and return the nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k-jhjtyFGEXEpnZYMsxHJAP0MvwGNvbruiJLtgNXHdTy7dA6iCG63p4G2fBrzGfnYqwtgt2H81pJTYu34PljU1DA_fPDfSXwcG11H5VYGaT0nT6yrJ2_t3soyyvPGXa_T6spIX--\")
If you do it yourself, you have a choice of aeration techniques. Some are engine-powered machines, some simple tools. All of them share one essential task: poking holes in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nExperts consider core aerators to be superior. Core aeration machines can be purchased or rented for the day or the weekend to get the job done. This will pull out plugs of thatch and soil, allowing oxygen to get down to the roots. Core aeration is also a must in clay soil, where the soil compacts easily. Pulling the plugs out of the ground is the best way to achieve a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nA spike aerator punches holes in your lawn with solid metal tines. You can even find spike aerators that strap onto your shoes. This allows you to march around your lawn, sans machine.
\n\n\n\nThis last point is crucial because it could save you from making an expensive mistake.
\n\n\n\nDr. Kevin Frank with the Michigan State University Extension Department on Crop and Soil Sciences warns, “Also be aware of any other underground lines, e.g., invisible dog fence wire. These lines should be buried deep enough to avoid any trouble, but it never hurts to double-check.”
\n\n\n\nWhether you do it yourself, or you have a lawn service aerate, you will be performing a task vital to your lawn’s health. Every living being on the planet needs oxygen and water to survive, and your grass is no different. Aeration provides the roots of your lawn access to both, leaving your lawn greener, thicker and more beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Wikimedia, CC 3.0
\n","title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional","featured_media":null,"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"52d754bf-9873-5b80-8542-ab4a5534e07c","slug":"how-to-stripe-a-lawn-in-6-steps","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-stripe-a-lawn-in-6-steps/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"September 25th, 2019","excerpt":"Whether it’s a sports field or your neighbor’s big-league landscaping that’s giving you lawn envy, a technique called lawn striping will give your yard that manicured look. But it’s not quite as easy as just mowing in a straight line or in different directions. Depending on what kind of grass you have, the time of […]
\n","content":"\nWhether it’s a sports field or your neighbor’s big-league landscaping that’s giving you lawn envy, a technique called lawn striping will give your yard that manicured look. But it’s not quite as easy as just mowing in a straight line or in different directions.
\n\n\n\nDepending on what kind of grass you have, the time of year, or even what type of lawn mower you use, there are some rules to striping.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how to stripe a lawn, whether it’s a basic stripe or a fancier design you want.
\n\n\n\nYou create stripes in your lawn by bending the grass blades in opposite directions as you mow. Light reflects differently on grass bent in one direction than in the other.
\n\n\n\nKeep that basic principle in mind. Everything else you do, from choosing grass variety to mowing equipment, will be done to increase the amount of bend and cause it to hold longer.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/0WDvQVzc-eZdva5viU3viFhQsKHDIU9-bI-I8Zr1T8efFBRVfZOXoORAcY2HCtp8fPu2Vf55jbYzdfuktSf5XIZFklvT_tuFsgXCW_PZJ493u_s35DFks7XhnNvDoPBtQLNN7Dwa\")
You don’t have to go out and buy an expensive new lawn mower, but you do need to know what you’re up against. Major League Baseball field crews don’t use typical household mowers. MLB literally wrote the book on lawn striping, and according to the official manual, rotary push lawnmowers only work on residential lawns. At the pro baseball field, it’s most likely a reel mower. “Reel mowers are more specialized and are used on higher maintenance facilities like golf courses and athletic fields. These mowers require additional training to operate. Reel mowers are used to provide better quality cuts and allows very low cutting heights,” the manual says.
\n\n\n\nWhile you don’t need to run out and buy a reel mower, you will need a lawn roller. A striping kit and sharp mower blades will also put you in the ballpark with the big league lawn stripers. These kits come complete with mounting hardware.
\n\n\n\nNot all grass is created equal when it comes to striping, and your technique must vary with the seasons. The grasses that take to striping the best are cool-season varieties such as fine fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They have long, flexible blades that easily bend in the direction of the lawn roller. Warm-season grasses such as St. Augustine have more rigid blades that spring back from the lawn roller. If your lawn consists of the stiffer warm-season kind, it’s more likely to bed and lie flat in the spring and fall, when the temperatures are a little lower. In the peak of the summer heat, those grass blades are less likely to lay how you want them. Keep in mind that cool-season grasses thrive best in spring and early fall. You’re also likely to get the best results from those varieties when the temperatures aren’t soaring into their July and August peaks.
\n\n\n\nMowing height is another major factor in lawn striping. Experts say never mow your lawn too closely, or you risk the health of the grass. Grass that has been scalped also tends to be less green. If you want to stripe your lawn, you have another reason to let it grow a little longer. The longer the blades of grass, the more distinct your stripes will be. That’s because there is more grass blade to lay in one direction and reflect light. Generally, you should keep your lawn between 2.5 to 4 inches long if you want that fancy design.
\n\n\n\nThere’s even more you can do with your grass if you have the inclination. Lawn stripe patterns are limited only by your imagination, the size and shape of your lawn and your lawn mower. Consider waves, circles, even an argyle-like pattern. For inspiration (we’ll call it “lawnspiration”), there are photos and videos online for the aspiring sports turf groundskeeper to check out.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: AdamKR, CC2.0
Your lawn and landscape create the frame for your picture-perfect home. It’s the first thing people see when they drive up to your house, so you want the grass to be greener and neat and trim on your side of the fence. Fortunately, Atlanta’s climate makes it easy to grow a lush, green lawn. We […]
\n","content":"\nYour lawn and landscape create the frame for your picture-perfect home. It’s the first thing people see when they drive up to your house, so you want the grass to be greener and neat and trim on your side of the fence. Fortunately, Atlanta’s climate makes it easy to grow a lush, green lawn. We get nearly 50 inches of rainfall a year, and our temperatures range between 34 and 90 degrees. The mercury rarely drops below freezing, so Atlanta lawns stay green longer than most. Here is your quickstart guide to lawn care in Atlanta.
\n\n\n\nThe fluctuating seasons puts Atlanta in a transitional zone, meaning both warm-season and cool-season grasses will thrive. We recommend a mixture of both. Choosing the right grass type is the first step toward a healthy, well-manicured lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZHNuWfARMcUhgkWrY4Aw9eDm29nUm1hU7cp8NZWN--bm0UNgjuF-0WYWHWLaVRNvfAKhP8XqrSMW9eBR20qT5urgtEMFglHhmmbxgwqQv4_Qx_X_tqPyaAzeW4XF7tMFR7jLQUXZ\")
This warm-season grass stands up well to heavy foot traffic, drought and cold. It’s the most common type of grass for Atlanta lawns, sports fields, and golf courses. Bermudagrass will grow well when planted in sunny areas with high humidity but tends to wilt in the shade.
\n\n\n\nSince it grows quickly, you may have to mow your lawn twice a week during the summer. We recommend mowing this grass to a height of 1 to 1½ inches and giving it 1½ inches of water a week. You may also want to overseed it with tall fescue to add some green color during the winter when Bermudagrass goes dormant.
\n\n\n\nA cool-season grass, this one is a favorite for those of you who love walking barefoot on the lawn. This turf works well by itself or blended with other types such as Bermuda. It resists heat and drought but may need more watering than warm-season varieties.
\n\n\n\nIt does best when planted in shady areas where it will need little maintenance. It doesn’t grow very fast, so it only needs mowing every nine days at a height of 2 to 3 inches. It doesn’t bounce back as quickly as Bermudagrass, so it may need reseeding more often.
\n\n\n\nThis warm-season grass is another low maintenance sod. It doesn’t need much fertilizer and will tolerate some shade. It can stand up to heat, but not drought and may need frequent watering during dry periods. It will remain green all winter, but will not survive repeated frosts.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass grows slowly, so you can get away with mowing once every two weeks to a height on 1½ to 2 inches. You will have to dethatch your lawn in the fall before reseeding. Be careful about which grass types you use for overseeding. Ryegrass will compete with the existing turf, eventually killing the centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/yQ6euhlqlmS_0wDZLjr_dPtUITtJMUl3pTbmDGCDYp8M7hAVgG-9bOSaTL0heiE6ByOLiFFxUmnV4OUUUAXAq5HuiPMC5bYln0r-xfYKBXDPl2cAOVhVngoqnCZeY2Wi4DV1cy6G\")
This tough warm-season turf can stand up to heat and tolerate the cold. It doesn’t need much maintenance and handles pets and kids with ease. Although it’s drought-resistant, Zoysia needs more water during the summer than other warm-season grasses. Its fine texture also makes it perfect for running barefoot across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nZoysia will cover your yard with a dense carpet of grass. This quality means you’ll have to aerate and dethatch in the spring. Mow to a height of 1 to 1 ½ inches to keep it green and weed-free all summer.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third of the height of your grass. If your grass is too short, it is vulnerable to pests and lawn diseases. Most turfs need a weekly mow until late fall when the growth slows down or stops. Consider varying the pattern and direction each time you mow. Otherwise, your grass blades will lean in one direction, making your lawn look unbalanced. After mowing, leave the clippings behind. They will decompose and fertilize your lawn. If you hire a lawn service professional, make sure to remind this person.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sPCP3-iv3M0DLJ1oXkzLccWVSA6S0VCdAAOsf0dCvpOTI1gf4eiHorPsx2nlKwrNbyYDpSJO7z_IiHHBLXOiINZNGEX9MaL1kL_nitlA6Tn15UNKwJiyhhgkQ6v96yUpf2x5tMQV\")
Dull mower blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it. As a result, your lawn will turn brown. With sharp mower blades, you only need to pass over your lawn once instead of several times to get the job done. Most hardware stores can sharpen them for you, or you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Just make sure you disconnect the spark plugs first.
\n\n\n\nYou can adjust the cutting height by raising or lowering the mower’s wheel. Look on the side of your lawnmower and find a knob or lever that adjusts the height for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will start to look tired and worn out after a summer of use. By raking up all debris and thatch and distributing seed, you can replenish some of those bare patches over the fall and winter. A thinning lawn is an invitation for weeds and pests. You can spread seed over the smaller areas by hand, or rent a seed spreader for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe heavy foot traffic over the summer has likely compacted your soil. Poking tiny holes in the lawn, or aerating, gives the grass a chance to take in more moisture and nutrients. It also raises the lawn’s resistance to diseases and pests. Do this in the fall, just before you add fertilizer. Fertilizing the lawn at the end of September will help it make it through the cold winter. Before deciding which fertilizer to use, find out what your lawn needs. You can get a home soil test kit at your local home improvement store. If you prefer, you can mail a sample the extension office at the University of Georgia, and they’ll test the soil for you and recommend a fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIn spite of all the rain that blesses Atlanta, your lawn may need a little more moisture before it goes dormant over the winter. Keep your sprinkler ready until the first frost. A few good soakings will give the roots of the grass the strength it needs to make it through the winter. You also want to make sure the new seeds and fertilizer work their way into the soil. If you want to learn more about local watering restrictions, visit Wikilawn’s Atlanta city page.
You look forward to it all year long: backyard barbecue season. But the bugs really put a damper on things — especially in Central Ohio where heat, humidity, and rain attract the worst pests in Columbus. Mosquitos, stinkbugs, ticks, crickets, and other creepy-crawly things love to call Columbus home. And they love to make […]
\n","content":"\nYou look forward to it all year long: backyard barbecue season. But the bugs really put a damper on things — especially in Central Ohio where heat, humidity, and rain attract the worst pests in Columbus.
\n\n\n\nMosquitos, stinkbugs, ticks, crickets, and other creepy-crawly things love to call Columbus home. And they love to make themselves at home in your backyard. Along with proper lawn care, there are some ways to curtail the worst pests in Columbus. Learn how to get rid of them and control infestations.
\n\n\n\nThese bloodsuckers are part of every backyard. Bats and some birds are natural predators, but some people are more freaked out by the idea of a bat house. Insect repellants with DEET or Picaridin are effective in warding off the little buggers. Citronella candles are also helpful, although not as long-lasting.
\n\n\n\nAlong with vegetation, mosquitoes like moisture. They breed in stagnant water such as puddles, storm pipes, and rain buckets. Dump out standing water from buckets, old tires, and outdoor containers. Mosquito-repelling plants include marigolds, lavender, lemon eucalyptus, peppermint, chrysanthemums, and citronella.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find these critters in most Columbus backyards, snacking on flowers and leaves of ornamental trees and shrubs. These bright metallic green insects appear in late June through September, and they’re tough to get rid of. If it’s a small infestation, you may be able to remove them by hand or use a pheromone trap. A word of warning: Those “bag a bug” methods tend to attract more insects than they catch. A neem or pyrethrin insecticide is often more effective.
\n\n\n\nNeem oil is an organic pesticide that controls a host of backyard bugs, including aphids, cabbage loopers, leafhoppers, scale, sawflies, chinch bugs, and spider mites.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d6m8zouFNIdaVgNXK1wRhHkLhom97CrMMkPc4gRTzgPGPvFz8fUyYXv-shuB3UYDtxsV7xqBfRKi6F4Yxntb2ry0fJ4QLLnFdT5Ne0bUvr1dS2NOUq0DEnx-Mla6Nsisk8STOthU\")
These are the worst backyard pests in Columbus if you’re sensitive to droning noise. You’ll hear them singing their trilling, ringing songs in Central Oho backyards from June until September. They feed off leaves, roots, and trees where the soil is moist but not too wet. Cicadas are often mistaken for locusts. Chemical treatments are usually not effective or necessary. If you really want to get rid of cicadas, spray a garden hose into trees and shrubs to knock the insects out of them. Protect plants with sticky tape or netting to prevent cicadas from feeding or laying eggs.
\n\n\n\nColumbus and Central Ohio have its share of backyard pests and the list is rather daunting.
\n\n\n\nSoapy water helps to remove small numbers of aphids, mealybugs, and thrips. For higher populations, insecticidal soap or pesticides are more suitable. You can make an eco-friendly bug spray with soap, oil, and water.
\n\n\n\nDifficult to control with ordinary pesticides but insecticidal soap works on some of the immature larvae.
\n\n\n\n![\"Caterpillar,](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/21AG80_bT15o-L7m9aCvdufz636l9K8xhW8zovdN38s-WJqUXWHsWPfnZdNpPz339kyN3vxMa32c11B1jmw11t2NxcZly7n_js5Rc8QfVglCKnNVqc-266qGo_lw3CZlJh9EBGAf\")
Registered pesticides are best for these insects, with the granules applied directly to the soil.
\n\n\n\nAphids have a lot of natural backyard predators (lady beetles and lacewings, etc.). You can also control them with insecticidal soaps, neem oil, and strong jets of water.
\n\n\n\nThere is no magic cure to get rid of all backyard insects. The Ohio State University Extension calls it integrated pest management — a process to minimize damage. Pesticides, whether they’re organic or chemical, can sometimes kill the beneficial insects. These are the bugs that eat the worst backyard pests in Columbus.
\n\n\n\nYou can squash the bug problem by choosing disease-controlled and insect-resistant plants and trees. Keep in mind, native plants have built up resistance to the bugs over the years. Keep your grass mowed and weed-free, so the pests have no place to hide or nest.
\n\n\n\nNeed more information about lawn care in Columbus and Central Ohio? Check out our Columbus Lawn Care page.
While there are no watering restrictions in Columbus when temperatures and precipitation are in their normal range, you will see a call to action during periods of drought. When temps go up, and the rivers go down, check with the city’s utilities department, or local news stations for updates. The ‘Burbs Some municipalities within the […]
\n","content":"\nWhile there are no watering restrictions in Columbus when temperatures and precipitation are in their normal range, you will see a call to action during periods of drought. When temps go up, and the rivers go down, check with the city’s utilities department, or local news stations for updates.
\n\n\n\nSome municipalities within the Columbus metro need to keep watering schedules in place year-round, especially during periods of excessive heat and limited rainfall. That’s because the suburban facilities serve many customers within a smaller region.
\n\n\n\nIn Westerville, for example, houses or businesses with addresses that end in even numbers can water the grass on even-numbered days. Subsequently, house and business addresses that end in odd numbers may water on odd-numbered days. The restriction doesn’t apply to trees, shrubs, gardens, and flowerbeds.
\n\n\n\nIn Delaware, Ohio, to conserve resources, voluntary restrictions are in place during normal rainfall. But the schedule becomes more rigid during prolonged periods of hot and dry weather. Homeowners whose properties have odd numbers can water on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Even-numbered addresses may water on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. In an effort to refill reserves, Delco Water Company prohibits watering on Mondays. During drought times in Ohio, residents are asked to limit car-washing, running the dishwasher and clothes washer.
\n\n\n\nWatering restrictions and conservation tips are similar in Gahanna, Dublin, Hilliard, Upper Arlington, Powell, Bexley, Grandview, and Granville.
\n\n\n\nYes, Ohioans may take it for granted, but water is a precious resource, although we do get a lot of rain here. Still, there are reasons to preserve water. Cutting down on water usage means a lower utility bill. Conserving water and using this precious resource as wisely as possible is always a good habit.
\n\n\n\nWater early in the morning or after the sun sets in the evening. Irrigating the lawn before 10 a.m. is preferred by experts, as it allows water to soak directly into the ground before evaporating. Mulching flowerbeds, garden and shrub areas helps to keep moisture in. Wash the car from a bucket of water; use a hose with a hose-end nozzle when it’s time to rinse.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/8nR4FoUXTG4Q6VafTC9CKj8-pRZ8-8Ap3BeNz9h0QGkjKKQ5FfiEo5gxVCL7b5kMOF60Y4TA0Ppa5ImwNL9w2eRbPzkGFxW1LLaSw4FrKAuXI5baxj2BE1Lp7bH_WjriBg0fewBg\")
The Columbus Division of Public Utilities operates and maintains three water treatment plants, 37 water storage tanks, 26 pump stations, nearly 27,000 hydrants, and close to 3.500 miles of water lines. Nearly 134 million gallons of water are pumped into homes and businesses every day. That’s about 50 billion gallons a year to 1.2 million people.
\n\n\n\nPreventing water pollution and conserving resources is a community-wide responsibility. You can do your part by not pouring kitchen grease down the drain, properly disposing of household hazardous waste and yard and pet waste. You can also limit stormwater runoff by creating a rain garden. This area provides water for your garden and prevents pollutants from entering our water supply.
\n\n\n\nConsider volunteering for litter cleanup sessions along watersheds and waterways. That’s something you can do year-round in Columbus, rain or shine.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Columbus? Visit our Columbus Lawn Care page.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/jisN2zveCc9bCch5U9zv7OrRNV-w2Ej6UitCpAVO9GS444XuyEQ_mce6aWDy7PxMqCp4cFFhcTVUdLlrnF_oMvUu-1rvZ_82X1unh1FZS4kTSSDi7Cd6wx0xxMXaPokGtXqaFh_t\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/2Gr1aJxmMMtnWx4Z-hPiRBMoU9JteyhUPkGmVXOMh3ZvEwAOTVDsdUQbQ83NvrWY1S2qfZOkF7QfNA9lH1D3iPORVKgW6qghcWCd54mJ05Sx3x0-mX1lhBn8YbTCk3j4TaRRiSmh\")
![Source](\"https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/photoset/0076.jpg\"){kind=link}