![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7siWPz9hIYZNaFizVvrLv1ilgO2v5ZEN6q_jZTkH9LyzmiTKBQ-wplgwMSshwyJel0FpzwSEjtWWWzWiVQY7qEuHWGV0kuQrn-qt3FS5grSQfBs4xY62AB-ltZieVNlrBe1SUz3h\")
You love having a thick, green lawn, but you dread your summer water bills. And the minute water restrictions begin during a drought, it can all feel like money down the drain. What if you could turn off the tap and rest easy knowing that your grass won’t wither and brown under a little dry […]
\n","content":"\nYou love having a thick, green lawn, but you dread your summer water bills. And the minute water restrictions begin during a drought, it can all feel like money down the drain. What if you could turn off the tap and rest easy knowing that your grass won’t wither and brown under a little dry spell? With drought-tolerant grasses, you can!
Certain species of lawn grass have the hardiness to hold up to the rigors of high traffic and low water usage. If you’d like to use less water year-round, consider replacing your lawn with one of the low-maintenance, drought-resistant grass species. Note that all grasses are more drought-tolerant if you care for them with regular mowing and fertilization. Read on to learn more about the variety that is right for you.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are exactly what they sound like: species well suited to the scorching-hot summers of the south. These grasses hit their growth peak in mid-summer and can retain their green color with less water than their non-drought-tolerant counterparts.
\n\n\n\nFine-textured and sun-loving, Bermudagrass doesn’t mind heavy traffic and is quick to recover from damage. It grows at an aggressive pace and needs more mowing than some varieties, but doesn’t do well in deep or partial shade.
\n\n\n\nA bright, apple-green grass, centipedegrass is slow-growing, requiring less mowing than fast-growing varieties. It loves full sun but will perform well in shady areas. Centipede grass doesn’t mind sandy, acidic soil, which means it’s ideal for the coastal Southeastern states. One drawback to this low-maintenance grass: It doesn’t hold up well to high traffic.
\n\n\n\nDeeply-rooted and very shade-tolerant, St. Augustine grass forms a dense, carpet-like mat that crowds out weeds. Floratam is the most drought-tolerant variety of this hardy warm-season grass. But, cold winters will turn a St. Augustine lawn brown during dormancy, in which case you may want to overseed with a winter variety.
\n\n\n\nThough it is slow-growing, once established, Zoysiagrass offers a dense, carpetlike grass cover. It handles high traffic well and will grow in full sun or shade. The most drought-tolerant cultivars include El Toro, Jamur, and Palisades.
\n\n\n\nCool-season drought-tolerant grasses have different water requirements and are not all suited for foot traffic. Take care when choosing the right variety for your yard, especially if you have kids or pets.
\n\n\n\nNative to plains states from Texas to North Dakota, buffalograss can handle winter lows and summer highs. It does particularly well with heavy clay soils and low rainfall but isn’t well-equipped to handle high traffic. This slow-grower requires less mowing than other varieties but also takes longer to establish than other grass types. It does best mowed high (to 5 inches), making it a poor choice for heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nNorthern states are the ideal location for this aggressive, emerald-green lawn grass. While severe droughts may bring on dormancy, Kentucky bluegrass recovers quickly once watering resumes. This grass type can be a bit slow to green up come spring, but overseeding with a little ryegrass can help speed up the process.
\n\n\n\nThis coarse-textured turfgrass can handle heavy foot traffic and with consistent mowing, provides a dense carpet of grass. Tall fescue needs less than an inch of water per week, and the dwarf varieties are the most drought-tolerant of them all.
\n\n\n\nWhile drought-resistant turf grasses are cultivated for their ability to survive periods of low rainfall, how you manage your turf will contribute to its drought tolerance. Deep and infrequent watering will help to encourage deep root growth, which increases resistance to drought. Likewise, mowing at the recommended height will also increase the chances of survival.
\n\n\n\nJim Baird, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources turf expert, recommends checking your irrigation system to ensure it’s watering evenly. ” We suggest homeowners test their sprinklers by placing cans around the lawn and running sprinklers to see if the water is being applied uniformly.” He suggests mowing at the tallest recommended height to encourage healthy, deep root development.
\n\n\n\nIt’s important to continue caring for your grass during a water-scarce period. Don’t assume drought-tolerant means your lawn doesn’t need any irrigation. During a drought, Baird reminds us, “The grass may not be as lush and green as usual,” noting, “but you can still have a lawn where kids and pets can play.” He cautions against letting a lawn die back too much during a drought because only weeds may come back in its place.
\n\n\n\nIf your drought-tolerant grass suffers in shady areas, you may want to consider some lawn alternatives beneath trees such as ground cover plants. You can also take measures to encourage grass growth in the shade.
\n\n\n\nYou can have a drought-tolerant lawn, no matter where you live. With a little effort and care, your water-wise lawn can save you time and money and look great (almost) year-round.
Looking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer. You may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too. What Is Compost? Compost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a cost-efficient way to a beautiful lawn with healthier grass? Composting may be the answer.
\n\n\n\nYou may associate compost with gardens and flower beds, but there are several benefits to adding the beautiful rot to your grass, too.
\n\n\n\nCompost is organic material, made up of decomposing living matter. Food scraps and yard waste (grass clippings, raked leaves, and remnants of garden plants) make up most compost. Compost also happens on its own in nature with fallen leaves, twigs, and branches. By adding fruit and vegetable scraps, you put back into the soil the ingredients it needs to thrive.
\n\n\n\nFood products that don’t compost well include tea bags (the tea residue works well but only if you remove the bag) and highly acidic citrus fruits and tomatoes (they may kill the good bacteria that break down the compost). Peelings from other fruits and vegetables are also excellent for the compost bin (remove the small paper stickers on them).
\n\n\n\nWhat you don’t want in your compost? Weeds. The weed seeds will spread and regrow in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLawns are dormant in winter, but it’s still a good time for maintenance. Composting supports the root system during dormancy. The organic matter helps the soil retain water, making it more available to the grass roots. Nutrients that would otherwise wash away, (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), make their way down to the roots. The healthier your lawn’s roots are, the deeper they grow and spread under your yard. This holds the soil together and helps it resist wind and water.
\n\n\n\nWith healthier roots created by composting comes healthier soil. The primary nutrients are joined by micronutrients like zinc, iron, copper, and manganese. The fertilizer you buy doesn’t always have these components. But compost breaks down slowly, so it acts as a slow-release fertilizer. The more diverse the ingredients in the compost, the more different types of nutrients sink into the soil. The decomposed compost (also called humus), will also neutralize both acidic and alkaline soils, creating pH levels that enable your grass to absorb the nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn helps break up compacted soil. But compost creates clusters of particles, called aggregates, for a stronger soil structure. These bundles have air channels and tiny holes that keep in water, nutrients, and air. There are basically three types of soil, and organic matter affects each one in different ways.
\n\n\n\nThis dense, heavy soil can be tough to work with. But when maintained, it’s one of the best soils for lawns and gardens. Adding organic matter like pine bark and finely ground leaves creates better soil structure. It also gets rid of drainage problems and compacted soil. Start with 3 to 6 inches of compost on your topsoil and work it down into the ground about ten inches over time. As the matter decomposes, it improves the quality of clay soil.
\n\n\n\nSandy soil is dry with large, coarse particles and a lot of air pockets, so it doesn’t need aeration. It’s also not ideal for growing things because all that space lets water drain before it can provide moisture to plant roots. Fertilizer is ineffective because it washes away before doing any good. Horticulture Agent Charlotte Glen of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension says, “Because they naturally lack nutrients and cannot store nutrients provided by fertilizers, plants growing in sandy sites often show nutrient deficiency symptoms like stunting, yellow leaves, and sparse flowering or poor fruit production.”
\n\n\n\nThe good news is that sand is lightweight and porous and easy to work with. This type of soil needs 3 to 4 inches of compost as topsoil. Till it deep into the ground. Then, in the future, let grass clippings fall onto the yard when mowing. The clippings add to the compost.
\n\n\n\nThis is the best type of soil for growing plants and grass. It’s a mix of equal parts clay, sand, and silt (sediment deposited by running water). While loamy soil already provides excellent growing conditions, you can improve any soil with compost. Do this once a year to lower its pH to a level that works well with grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/fXTp3fOUPxxEJfrU4ABu64j_Zld8HZGr_VZc6ZpQOmTIkGU2ukwTl22wTLSETZwBt11kHl7TGBemnJ5-skvzmyBYzYT8xgSiYPixheaoIRMEWt_nrohyBSv7zGXMzLbyIKHk1BcF\")
Healthy turf is about 50% air, held in pockets and spaces in the soil. When that soil is compacted, moisture and nutrients don’t filter down to the plant’s roots as well as they should. Compost creates more accommodating surroundings by loosening the soil, creating natural energy.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you know if your soil is compacted?
\n\n\n\nWorking organic matter into the ground is the best way to fight compaction. For extreme cases, you may need to use up to 50% compost. This will also help decompose thatch buildup in the fall. Too much thatch causes the root system under your lawn to choke itself.
\n\n\n\nPerhaps the best perk from composting is how it benefits the environment. By putting your vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and other kitchen scraps in a compost pile, you’re keeping it out of landfills. You also eliminate the need for fertilizing. Make sure the organic matter stays damp, and it will keep insects away, negating the need for insecticide. And the air pockets created in the soil will hold more water, meaning you won’t need to water as often.
\n\n\n\nComposting is a win-win in many ways, but poor quality soil with too much clay or sand needs a little more work. After spreading more than an inch of compost over the yard, spray the grass blades with liquid nitrogen to speed up decomposition. Healthy lawns take some work but in the long run, are worth it!
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: normanack, CC 2.0
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\n","content":"\nThe debate over rock salt is a slippery slope. More than 25 million metric tons of rock salt are dumped onto roads, sidewalks, and driveways every year to de-ice them. While these de-icing salts make life safer for motorists and pedestrians, they have the unintended consequence of damaging lawns. Most of the time, salt damage is not apparent until spring, when snowmelt and warming temperatures reveal the dead grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NjGOu8zuJtv1iLsWaOawKFZkMeM88I6RMbT39KNWxyyP4HtkKpZ3FaM3z-QvKFOfPq_ruGVeQvxM4VYlm51XL_BWd4oUJp_7-eKeEKNVLH5FYFx7YXLEebmoYGqR3_sKplyNOfVl\")
If you live on a major roadway where crews use salt as a road de-icer, consider a little preventive and remedial lawn care to safeguard your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhen rock salt is applied to icy surfaces, it melts the ice and then runs off or is sprayed by the tires of cars driving through the slush. That overspray can travel up to 150 feet, which means even if your yard isn’t directly affected, some mist may still reach your yard. Salt spray can cause injury to plant buds, leaves, and stems.
\n\n\n\nSalt draws moisture out of leaves, leaving them brown and dry. It also pulls moisture out of the soil, causes soil compaction, and exposes grass roots to chlorides. When chlorides build up to a toxic level, plants lose the ability to produce chlorophyll and eventually die.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/eMqSKQJMlPHs_fovZyFU86BptGtpjXzfRSIJMS6h5y6pAMvBZrj4YuQ9mChNNaxemCHLuKi8jEmxVrM6PsA9_4yeacUeQQgx6VnTAL1L6UlHuHOHT3ZraXxc6OK9hfElPEz_GXzZ\")
Rock salt has a corrosive effect on hard surfaces, often leaving white spots on natural stone walkways and patios. Concrete that isn’t sealed is porous and will soak up the briny water left behind from a de-icing treatment. That absorbed water will refreeze when the temperature dips below freezing, causing expansion. This process will eventually cause chipping, cracks, and flaking in concrete structures. The least expensive de-icing salts tend to be the most corrosive. Pricier de-icing agents are less harmful to grass and less corrosive to concrete and stone. Even if you use a cheaper, more corrosive de-icer, you can cut it with sand to reduce the volume of harsh chemicals.
\n\n\n\nSalt remains in the soil for years, and it accumulates over time until it creates an environment where grass can no longer thrive. Salt is leached out by rainfall, but it can take a while for this process to be complete. Speeding this process by irrigating deeply once the weather warms up will help. But the best solution is to avoid the accumulation of salt in the soil in the first place.
\n\n\n\nGenevieve Schmidt, owner of Genevieve Schmidt Landscape Design and Fine Maintenance in Humboldt County on California’s northern coast, recommends using calcium or magnesium acetates rather than chlorides to de-ice areas around yards and landscapes. She cautions, “When you see dieback and browning or yellowing of leaves, it’s evident there’s been salt damage. If you suspect salt has leached into your landscaping, it’s wise to rinse plants and soil with water as soon as the snow melts. Apply 2 inches of water over a two- to three-hour period, then repeat a few days later.”
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/mzr4JokmArjex8fONGsriVGdlk7rogYtVDYn7Jn2p9p6dkkmm55B4mFZ5yBYIdX2jHnqwOIigim53_JN9OnlWXt497yNnHHE5MD4LtQ7cYwWqutEXbn5L5y8Ku7xq5axXtgrLMwm\")
There is little point in reseeding or overseeding a lawn that has a high level of salt buildup. Without flushing out the salt beforehand, the new grass will absorb the chlorides in the soil and eventually suffer the same fate as the grass you’re replacing. Once you’ve adequately flushed salt out of your lawn in the spring, take your time to reseed your lawn the right way. While salt damage in your yard is nothing to shrug off, it also isn’t the end of the world. With a little foresight and prevention, you can protect your lawn and treat the damage before it’s irreversible.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Michael Pereckas, CC by 2.0
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\n","content":"\nPhoenix residents are actively seeking to preserve the natural landscape and its native plants. In addition to helping sustain our environment, these plants thrive in an arid climate and surround our homes with bursts of color and artistic shapes. Some native varieties are great plants to plant around a pool as well. We are spotlighting five native plants from the dozens that can decorate our outdoor spaces.
\n\n\n\nThis sprawling perennial also known as plumbago scadens is showing up in more and more Phoenix gardens. The flowers, a startlingly bright white, are quite dramatic against the deep green of the foliage. The leaves are long and lance-shaped, a deep red as new growths, then green when they mature. They return to red during the fall and winter.
\n\n\n\nIn Phoenix, the white desert plumbago prefers filtered or partial shade, which is pretty quirky for a native of the Sonoran Desert. It’s an easygoing plant all around: It’ll grow under trees or taller shrubs; climb fences, walls or trellises; or cascade from containers or hanging baskets. Plant them along the perimeter of your yard for an innovative and informal hedge.
\n\n\n\nTufted evening primrose is a low-growing perennial with fragrant flowers that open at dusk, glowing white through the night, and then fade to pink and fold in the morning heat. The hairy, narrow leaves are gray-green on top and blue-gray underneath. They also fold up in the heat to retain moisture.
\n\n\n\nLike all native plants in Phoenix, the tufted evening primrose needs little water. However, if you water it moderately, you’ll be rewarded with flowers all summer. The flower’s petals are held above the base of the flower by a long tube that collects nectar. Night-flying hawkmoths love the plant. Their long, coiled tongues stretch far enough to reach the nectar.
\n\n\n\nPlant near a patio or porch so that you can view the fascinating transitions in the evening and early morning hours.
\n\n\n\n![\"Feather](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/feather-bush-brian-ralphs-cc20.jpg\")
Also known as fern of the desert, the heat and sun-loving feather bush is a single- or multi-trunk tree that can reach a height of 12 to 15 feet and spreads to widths of up to 15 feet. Clusters of fragrant, creamy white puffballs bloom in early spring amid long, lacy leaves that resemble graceful green feathers.
\n\n\n\nPlant the feather bush around a pool or pond if you want to simulate an oasis, group it to create a natural privacy screen or bring a tropical ambiance to a patio or entryway. Wherever you plant it, you will be captivated by the colorful butterflies fluttering among the flowers and foliage.
\n\n\n\nAlso known as false mesquite, the fairy duster’s vibrant red flowers bloom most of the year, and in some areas, all year. The striking flower is actually spiky stamens that form puffballs. The delicate leaves are a deep green composed of tiny leaflets.
\n\n\n\nIt’s an evergreen but may thin out during those very rare “cold spells” in Phoenix. But there is no such thing as “too hot.” Plant it where you’ve not been able to grow anything, such as in the full sun against a west-facing wall. You can plant it in partial shade, but you will not have anywhere near as many blooms. Hummingbirds flock to the shrub. Watch closely and you’ll also see some finches, wrens, and verdins.
\n\n\n\nThe hedgehog cactus is a low-growing succulent with short, spiny stems that resemble hedgehogs. All varieties of the cactus have magnificent blossoms that last five days in shades of pink or purple. They open in the morning and close at night.
\n\n\n\nOnce the flowering is complete, the plant produces edible red-orange fruit with a fleshy white pulp that tastes like strawberry. At first, the fruit looks too dangerous to pick — the stems are densely covered with sharp spines, but the spines fall off as the fruit matures.
\n\n\n\nEven though the hedgehog cactus grows in sandy, rocky soil, and full sunlight, it also does well indoors near a sunny window.
\n\n\n\nFeature image source: Alan Levine / CC 2.0
\n","title":"5 Native Plants for Easy Gardening in Phoenix, AZ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/1789c/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/107df/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg 320w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/293e9/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg 500w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/f2cbb/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg 800w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/1789c/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg 960w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/356ef/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/1dd6e/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/67b76/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp 320w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/8df11/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp 500w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/98a65/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp 800w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/1dd6e/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp 960w,\n/static/b11e770742245b817539c59bb4c24efd/93f70/rsz_all-arizona-prickly-pear-cactus-lake-cc20.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"5 Native Plants for Easy Gardening in Phoenix, AZ | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"1c67d9da-a9ec-51ca-8d19-58993eb7d50a","slug":"how-to-grow-grass","path":"/lawn-care/how-to-grow-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 15th, 2019","excerpt":"Starting a lawn from seed can be a daunting task, but one that is well worth it. Once you establish a new lawn — or fill in bare spots — the lush, green grass is a reward in and of itself. Here is how to grow grass. When To Seed The “when” of how to […]
\n","content":"\nStarting a lawn from seed can be a daunting task, but one that is well worth it. Once you establish a new lawn — or fill in bare spots — the lush, green grass is a reward in and of itself. Here is how to grow grass.
\n\n\n\nPlanting grass seed is not as simple as it sounds. Before you start seeding, get the yard ready.
\n\n\n\nThe “when” of how to grow grass depends on what type of grass you’re planting. The time of year makes a difference in how well your new lawn will establish itself. If you’re planting in a warmer climate, like the southern part of the United States, warm-season grasses like Zoysia and Bermudagrass will work best in your yard. Plant those warm-season grasses in the late spring — late May through early June. As the name suggests, this grass type thrives in warmer temperatures better than the cool-season grasses. Cool-season grasses tolerate deep freezes better. That’s not to say they will stay green through the winter, but the cold won’t kill the roots. Examples of cool-season grasses include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It’s best to plant this grass type in the early fall.
\n\n\n\nThe crucial part of planting grass seed is water. New grass needs lots of water, especially if you live in a drier climate, or it hasn’t rained. “As the seed germinates and seedlings begin to grow, it’s essential the new seedlings are not allowed to dry out. Continue to water the seedlings two to four times a day if the weather conditions are dry,” advises Clark Throssell, a turfgrass specialist at Purdue University. Once you get the grass seed growing, you want your new grass to grow into a healthy lawn. You may need to set your automatic sprinkler if it has a timer. If not, be sure to get outside to check on your new grass every day until its established. These rules also apply if you’re overseeding an existing lawn and trying to fill in bare spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/rsz_lawn-mowing-catcher.jpg\")
You can start mowing and regular lawn maintenance once the new grass gets a couple of inches high. Try to keep the soil moist and foot traffic to a minimum until your lawn has reached that stage and matured a bit.
\n\n\n\nThe exact mowing height depends on what kind of grass you have:
\n\n\n\nDon’t rush to put down weed killer right away, even if you see weeds popping up. New grass is delicate, and herbicides can do damage to even the best grass when it’s starting to germinate. Only consider putting down weed killers — whether pre-emergent or post-emergent — after you have mowed the new lawn several times. Weed control comes only after you have established your healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nGrowing grass takes time and patience — thus the cliche, “watching the grass grow.” If you’re in a hurry to establish a lawn and don’t have time to plant grass seed, consider laying down sod. This will be a little more expensive, especially if you have large areas to cover, but it won’t take nearly as long.
\n\n\n\nIt’s not a quick process, and in order to have a healthy green lawn, you will need to make the right preparations. But if you follow the recommendations that best suit your climate and your yard, you will be rewarded by the thick, beautiful lawn you want.
\n","title":"How to Grow Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7799752781211373,"src":"/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/1789c/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg","srcSet":"/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/107df/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg 320w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/293e9/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg 500w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/f2cbb/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg 800w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/1789c/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg 960w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/88d35/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.jpg 1440w","srcWebp":"/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/1dd6e/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/67b76/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp 320w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/8df11/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp 500w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/98a65/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp 800w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/1dd6e/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp 960w,\n/static/83f8ac2ef88f6e4e2b221655078d2634/d6099/nature-grass-growth-plant-sky-field-932697-pxhere.com_.webp 1440w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Grow Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"80f99559-1e72-59e1-ad9c-5cdf4e6b8618","slug":"how-build-backyard-putting-green","path":"/lawn-care/how-build-backyard-putting-green/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Kelly Holland","id":"87ed81cb-6dc6-5b6f-8673-e295fb5aa8f3","path":"/author/karen/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a7bdc84bcad759506a493dca25650999?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"November 15th, 2019","excerpt":"So your golf game isn’t up to par, and you need to practice, practice, practice! But who has time to go to the driving range to practice their chipping? Hit the green any time you want without ever getting in your car by putting a putting green in your backyard. Adding your own putting green […]
\n","content":"\nSo your golf game isn’t up to par, and you need to practice, practice, practice! But who has time to go to the driving range to practice their chipping? Hit the green any time you want without ever getting in your car by putting a putting green in your backyard. Adding your own putting green to your landscape will make you everyone’s best friend and do wonders for your short game!
\n\n\n\nBefore you go digging up your lawn:
\n\n\n\nWhere you build your outdoor putting green will determine whether it’s a hit or a failure! Some of the things to consider are how much sun hits the area (when using real grass), slope, and airflow. Choose an area that gets full sun when using real grass. This is best for growth and performance. Stay away from spots near fences and tall trees, as these will block the sun. Shade can cause the soil to hold in too much moisture. The right amount of sun also helps prevent mold and diseases that can destroy the green turf.
\n\n\n\nSpeaking of moisture, too much of a slope can drown your green. Low, deep areas of your lawn gather water, something that’s a definite no-no for a putting green. On the other hand, a completely flat area is boring, so you may want to keep or add some small bumps. No matter where you decide to build, install drains to the green dry. These drains should be no more than 10 feet apart and allow water to drain off in all directions.
\n\n\n\nAirflow (wind) is the third component when deciding the location. The right airflow helps the grass grow and stay dry. Don’t place the golf green in a spot where fences, shrubs, and trees block the wind. But, if you live in a very windy area, you may need to find a happy medium, so your ball isn’t constantly blowing around.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HYMZ5WGK4XW_km1QRQQARj6tHSiLItYiZLopBMxjb0onSlGTk6DAhE8syvrw5v-g6wbRKkKHvY7nejpw_Xpq2P1aUi2thpuxRtWatk3DO2QlwMSTjTMh9qJVx4R6rwPKdNhjf1Ug\")
Natural grass and synthetic putting greens each have their pros and cons. Most backyard putting greens made with real turf use creeping bentgrass. It’s less expensive to install than artificial turf and gives the look of a real golf course. The surface of creeping bentgrass provides a smooth, even surface for fast putts. Keep it trimmed to a quarter-inch or less. That means a lot of mowing, not to mention fertilizer, weeding, and watering! Installing real grass is initially cheaper than installing synthetic turf, but long-term maintenance is more costly.
If you want a low maintenance putting surface, artificial turf is the way to go. Synthetic grass is more expensive to install but requires little upkeep. While you do need to keep leaves and sticks off the area, you don’t need to worry about mowing, fertilizing, or weeding. Some golfers think artificial putting greens don’t look like an actual golf course. It’s also more difficult to move the cups around on synthetic turf than real grass. Keep in mind, synthetic grass has come a long way. If you install high-quality turf, few people will know the difference.
\n\n\n\nSome golfers are extremely handy and are capable of building a PGA style backyard green in a day or two. If you find it too time-consuming to do it yourself, it may be easier to hire someone to install the surface. There are quite a few steps involved, but you may enjoy the process and feel a sense of accomplishment when you’re done. Be aware there’s more to it than just digging up the backyard and laying down turf and cups.
\n\n\n\nThe digging, hauling and cutting require a lot of effort. Of course, the size and style of your green will have an impact on price no matter who installs it.
\n\n\n\nReal grass and artificial turf both require maintenance but grass requires more. To keep it at a half-inch or less, you’ll be mowing every other day. The green needs frequent watering. You’ll also put down fertilizer and fungicide. Keeping pests from destroying your hard work is also high on the list. Clark Throssell of Purdue University’s Extension Office says, “Several insects and diseases are potential pests of creeping bentgrass greens. The first step in pest control is to produce a dense, actively growing stand of grass.” If that doesn’t work, you may need an insecticide.
\n\n\n\nA backyard putting green is an investment in your home’s charm as well as in your own leisure time. So what you put into it is a predictor of what you’ll get back.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Lotus Head, CC by-SA 3.0
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