![\"Bermudagrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
When it comes to grasses that will flourish in Raleigh, you have a lot to choose from. North Carolina is in what’s called the “transition zone,” an area sandwiched between the cold north and warm south. We need grasses that can handle both conditions. There are 8 best grass types for Raleigh that thrive in […]
\n","content":"\nWhen it comes to grasses that will flourish in Raleigh, you have a lot to choose from. North Carolina is in what’s called the “transition zone,” an area sandwiched between the cold north and warm south. We need grasses that can handle both conditions. There are 8 best grass types for Raleigh that thrive in warm and cold.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about each grass type to help you decide which one is perfect for your property.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses perform their best in the southern half of the U.S. and actively grow when the temperature is around 75 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. These are drought-tolerant grasses that are mowed at a lower height in the summer.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow best during hot North Carolina summers but will become dormant during the cold winter. For the best results, plant seeds in late spring and early summer.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are more suited to northern climates with cold winters. These grasses are able to remain green through most of the year, even in cooler temperatures. They thrive when temperatures are between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses should be seeded in late summer or early fall. Unlike warm-season grasses, they should be mowed at a taller height.
\n\n\n\nThe following warm-season and cool-season grass types are perfectly suited for the climatic and soil conditions of Raleigh:
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is dense with a dark green color, and grows very quickly, which makes it great for any bare spots in your lawn. It’s one of the toughest grasses and will even out-compete weeds – however, it also will invade and take over your flower beds if you don’t keep an eye on it.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass can be seeded, but can also be planted with sods and plugs. It thrives in full sun and goes dormant in the winter once the temperature goes below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of this, it will do best in lawns that get very little shade. If you have a significant number of trees that generate shade, then Bermudagrass will not work for you.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is available in several different improved and hybrid varieties that are used for golf courses, lawns, parks, roadsides, and sports fields.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease, although diseases are common; low resistance to insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and is able to outcompete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns. Tolerant of most soil types.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Centipedegrass.jpg\")
Centipedegrass is a popular choice in coastal areas since it adapts to infertile, acidic soils as well as salt and sand. It can only handle heavy clay soils if there is lots of drainage. This species of grass needs to be seeded regularly since it takes two or three years to fully mature and fill out your lawn. Once grown, it becomes granny-smith apple green with a dense, coarse texture.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass was initially used for low-maintenance cemeteries and eventually for lawns during and after the Great Depression. It is sometimes called “lazy man’s grass” or “poor man’s grass.” It has good shade and drought tolerance and can be spread by either seed or sod. Other varieties of centipedegrass have better cold tolerance and better performance in alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to diseases and insects
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; doesn’t tolerate heavy traffic; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/St.-Augustinegrass-1.jpg\")
The Raleigh blend of St. Augustinegrass was developed and specifically adapted for the area by North Carolina State University in 1980 and has a higher cold tolerance than other blends. The most shade tolerant of warm-season grasses, Raleigh St. Augustine is a great choice for homes in heavily wooded areas.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is a lush, fast-growing grass with a medium blue-green color. It works best in moist, warm climates with plenty of drainage and rich soil and is well-suited for North Carolina’s warm weather.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Zoysiagrass is a dense, lush grass that is light- to medium green. It is weather-resistant and low maintenance but will take a long time to establish. It does best in heat and full sun, and the speed of its growth depends on how much sun it receives. Zoysiagrass turns brown at the first fall and goes dormant throughout the winter.
\n\n\n\nIt does not require frequent mowing and rarely needs irrigation, but it will become thatchy if not properly cared for. There are several species and cultivars of Zoysiagrass used in different aspects of landscaping, with some being fine-textured and others being coarse-textured.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Not prone to disease and insects; good disease tolerance overall
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"Fine](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Fine-Fescue.jpg\")
Fine fescues are known for their fine leaves. They tend to bunch and not spread out, so are often combined with Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. Fine fescue seeds establish quickly and are a deep green color with a fine texture that almost resembles pine needles.
\n\n\n\nThis grass is drought resistant, cold tolerant, and does very well in poor soil conditions. It is the most shade-tolerant of all grass types and prefers rocky or sandy soil and clay. Full sun reduces fine fescue quality and results in thinning. Fine fescue is recommended for northern gardens and warm, shady areas.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grasses with one exception: creeping red fescues possess rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage is a must; tolerates infertile soils; sandy soils generally work well
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Often used in a mix with other cool-season grasses, especially in sun/shade mixes
\n\n\n\n![\"Tall](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Tall-Fescue.jpg\")
Tall fescue is perhaps the most popular cool-season grass in the upper piedmont area thanks to it remaining green during winter. Considered a reliable, low-maintenance grass, tall fescue is both tolerant to heat and resistant to cold. It thrives in full sun and partial shade, and because it can withstand heat and sudden dips in temperature, tall fescue works well for lawns in transition zones of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue often needs to be irrigated to remain attractive during the summer. It grows best on fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 but can thrive in a wide range of soil conditions. It has a coarse texture, with a medium to dark green color and an extensive root system.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate, but low ability to recuperate from wear
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Fast rate of growth, so plan to mow often
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations. Many tall fescue lawns grow best when they’re mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate under proper management conditions
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Fertile, good drainage, but will tolerate a wider range of soil conditions
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Reseed every few years to repair bare spots and thinning; don’t plant old varieties such as Kentucky-31; look for “turf-type” tall fescue (TTTF). Seed blends with more than one TTTF cultivar give the best chance for a strong lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Goats](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Kentucky-Bluegrass.jpg\")
As great as it would be to have a folk band serenading you in your yard, Kentucky bluegrass is actually a species of cool-season grass. Also, despite what the name suggests, it’s not blue, but dark green.
\n\n\n\nConfusing, we know. Apparently, when early Kentucky settlers looked out at the fields, the seed heads had a purplish, blue-green hue in the sun, hence the name.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass (the plant) performs best when paired with tall fescue for a lush lawn that lasts throughout the year. It grows best in cool temperatures during the fall, winter, and spring, and its growth slows during the summer. Kentucky bluegrass tolerates some shade but prefers full sun.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate, but will survive by going dormant
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate, but recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency; a high-maintenance grass
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, fertile
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Produces a dense lawn under ideal conditions; many of these traits (shade tolerance, drought resistance, etc.) vary widely by cultivar, with newer cultivars generally being hardier, more resistant to disease, etc.; mow taller in summer; most often mixed with other species, such as tall fescue, in home lawns
\n\n\n\n![\"Long](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Perennial ryegrass is the best grass for transition zone areas like Raleigh because it can withstand the warm season despite being a grass type for the cool season. Ryegrass is a thick, dense, dark green grass that can stand up to heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nRyegrass is resistant to pests and thrives in well-drained soil. Its roots establish quickly, and it has a long growing season, all of which make it one of the most popular cool-season grasses. Perennial ryegrass is often used for winter overseeding on golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns to provide winter color in warm climates.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grass
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low (summer dormancy in some areas)
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High, but poor recuperative ability
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing requirement, depending on cutting height (lower cutting heights require more frequent mowing)
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High, especially in areas with hot, humid summers
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Good drainage, high fertility
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Most often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue in a cool-season mix; well known for its excellent striping ability, low mowing tolerance (reel mower fans, this one’s for you), and rapid germination rate (four to seven days). Needs moderate levels of fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe most commonly used grasses in North Carolina are warm season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
Fine fescues are finely bladed grasses that are the softest and most lush grasses for bare feet.
Tall fescue thrives in sun or medium shade in the mountains and is the best for a green lawn year-round.
Bermudagrass is the best for Raleigh and regions of North Carolina with warm temperatures since it has a deep root system and provides resistance from heat, drought, and insects.
For homeowners in Raleigh, it can be tricky picking out the right grass for your lawn. But thankfully, your location makes your decision more flexible since you can safely house both cool-season and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to learn more about how to care for your lawn for each season, you can check out our guide on spring and fall lawn care tips in Raleigh.
\n\n\n\nLooking for help from an experienced professional? You can keep your lawn looking lush and healthy with the help of Raleigh lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxhere
\n","title":"8 Best Grass Types for Raleigh, NC","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1789c/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg","srcSet":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/107df/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 320w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/293e9/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 500w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/f2cbb/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 800w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1789c/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 960w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/c26c2/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1dd6e/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/67b76/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 320w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/8df11/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 500w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/98a65/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 800w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/1dd6e/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 960w,\n/static/603190c617102df4845ef804f2c49ef9/3cc96/Best-grass-type-for-raleigh.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"8 Best Grass Types for Raleigh, NC | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Need a new lawn? You have the option of 8 different cool-season and warm-season grasses that thrive in a Raleigh yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"0f4bfeef-815e-5ec8-9129-4623023e7ddd","slug":"watering-restrictions-charlotte","path":"/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/watering-restrictions-charlotte/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"afc750c6-fc25-5d3b-8b8a-77aa8db4c3fb","name":"Charlotte","count":6,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/charlotte/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"0946c7b5-fa0e-522f-b876-ff6b33c2d842","name":"North Carolina","count":17,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nc/"}],"date":"July 30th, 2019","excerpt":"There are only a handful of strict watering restrictions in Charlotte, N.C., but there are some common-sense measures you can take at any time to reduce the amount of water you use.
\n","content":"\nNorth Carolina is blessed with short, mild winters offset by long months of heat and humidity. That hot weather comes with a price. Summers with low levels of rainfall can put the state and county at a bit of a deficit, and remind us of the importance of conservation. There are only a handful of strict watering restrictions in Charlotte, N.C., but there are some common-sense measures you can take to reduce the amount of water you use.
\n\n\n\nThe City of Charlotte lists watering tips to help lighten the irrigation load in the city. These include only watering 1 inch per week, (that’s really all your lawn needs!) and controlling water-hogging weeds. The city also recommends using drip irrigation to apply water to the roots of your trees and using a rain sensor to avoid unnecessary watering. You can also save water by mulching planting beds, and only watering in the pre-dawn hours.
\n\n\n\nAlthough it’s not enforced, spray irrigation should always occur between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. and should follow an odd/even pattern. That means odd addresses can water on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday and even addresses water on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. Handheld watering with a container or hose is OK anytime, as is car washing and filling swimming pools.
\n\n\n\nDuring this first level of drought conservation, the same odd/even schedule seen in normal conditions becomes mandatory for spray irrigation. But, irrigating by hand, car-washing and pool filling is still allowed at any time.
\n\n\n\nUnder moderate drought conditions, spray irrigation becomes restricted to two days per week. Odd addresses may water on Tuesdays and Thursdays between 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. Even addresses are limited to Wednesdays and Fridays from 10 p.m. and 4 a.m. Handheld watering, car washing, and pool filling are still allowed at any time.
\n\n\n\nDuring a severe drought, spray irrigation is still allowed on two days of the week, on an odd/even basis, but the hours become restricted. Odd addresses may water on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m., and even addresses may water on Wednesdays and Fridays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Watering with a hand-held tool is OK between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. Car-washing is allowed only on specific days: odd addresses on Saturdays and even addresses on Sundays. The city prohibits the filling of swimming pools, but you can top them off to a maximum of 12 inches per week.
\n\n\n\nUnder extreme drought conditions, the city restricts spray irrigation to one day per week. Odd addresses may water Tuesday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and even addresses Wednesday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. Hand-held watering is still allowed from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. on any day. Car washing is only allowed on weekends, odd addresses on Saturday and even addresses on Sunday. Filling and topping off of pools under these levels is a no-no.
\n\n\n\nThis level of drought is extremely rare in North Carolina. When the water supply is this low, spray irrigation is no longer permitted. Neither is car washing or filling or topping off swimming pools. It’s still OK to water by hand any day from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m.
\n\n\n\nIt’s always a good idea to practice water conservation, but if you’re not sure of the current restriction, you can always check the North Carolina Drought Monitor. Remember, the watering restrictions in Charlotte are not a punishment, but rather an individual action we all take to contribute to the greater good of our neighbors across the state. Responsible water use benefits the community at large. Want to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
If you were a weed, wouldn’t you want to make Charlotte your home? These uninvited guests, however, get in the way of us keeping lawns beautiful.
\n","content":"\nYou really can’t blame them: If you were a weed, wouldn’t you want to make Charlotte your home? These uninvited guests, however, get in the way of us keeping lawns beautiful.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to have your yard become a weedy welcome mat, the key is to spot them early and take care of weeds as they come up. Here’s a guide for controlling the worst weeds in Charlotte.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lrBgC06YV-YqYYN7yRqNSriNT1OML-uP_RX86xvcR6G-OFtk8wmECKyCgD2_rNu3YxygamloDHM7HEcBMrPw4_ublc1NsqStMB4bElrsOI4PGVzqqx0Riz1nLQgXUeOk3ZHzzyCl\")
This perennial plant once was a standard part of grass seed mixes. But once chemical herbicides were introduced after World War II, clover was redefined as a weed by the industry. Clover will come back year after year, left unchecked. Winter frost doesn’t slow it down one bit, either. Clover likes nothing better than poorly fertilized grass because it has the upper hand. To beat this persistent weed, start by fertilizing in the spring and fall to give your lawn an advantage. Keep the grass mowed high — 3 inches or taller — to give it an edge over the clover. The last resort is using a broadleaf herbicide to spot-treat the clover, But only do this if your efforts to have the grass overpower the clover fail.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/chickweed-flowers-stellaria-media-flickr-hedera-baltica-1024x971.jpg\")
This annual winter weed will creep in beginning in early fall and will persist until spring. Left unchecked, it can spread into large patches. The organic way to control chickweed is to pull up any of the shallow-rooted plants as they come up. You’ll then need to aerate and reseed to fill in any of the gaps in the turf left behind. Some pre-emergent treatments will kill chickweed when applied in the early spring, and post-emergents will work in the fall. Mow often to prevent these plants from going to seed, at which point a pre-emergent may be the best choice.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/lDDV_6uILf08I912SlAdce9KrL9TB5G20KhnSxqTrVeD5KFxpWF3D5ofAvkpF6OmhBahCvMG_6K9DCCpCfBFrJ5k9AmkPYIWspIhD2OYQB3Hl-ok5MzUrxMnU8q5Sgp0kL9zePK4\")
Hairy bittercress may sound like an ingredient in a Harry Potter spell but will feel like a curse if you ever try to pull it up by the roots. This annual winter weed will send small explosions of seeds in all directions. During winter and spring, go on a bittercress patrol a couple of times a week and pull any emerging plants. Once the seeds start popping, you will have a much bigger problem the following year. Frequent mowings can keep this pesky weed in check, but a severe infestation calls for broadleaf herbicide treatment.
\n\n\n\nFrom late fall to spring, this opportunistic weed loves to invade patchy lawns in shady spots. Begin surveying the yard in late summer to scope out any of the telltale purple leaves as it begins to emerge. Hand weed any henbit you find in these first weeks of emergence, and you should be well-positioned to win the battle. Treat any heavy infestations with a pre-emergent in the fall.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/uT_V7ugO7nsiFbU1dxk5CIMFlSXuwIhWQCVUaEfnw50Pfk6NYM2KJyXpzuYXpXQNKkbK0ZifGGcmb4FGEaPhkzlmhQzug9s3WYirdEi205rPn6XsbuiGvK2L9VNb7gN65jtLlWce\")
Often mistaken for henbit, this relative of mint is one of the most aggressive lawn weeds around. If you’re able to spot it early and pull it up by the roots, you’ll be in good shape, but if you have an infestation, you’re in trouble. A pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide may be the only way to take care of a bad case of purple deadnettle.
\n\n\n\nBear in mind that for each of these weeds and countless others, the best offense is a good defense. Aerating, mowing properly, watering and fertilizing at the right times, helps in controlling the worst weeds in Charlotte. Remember, the more energy you put into keeping the lawn healthy and happy, the less time you will spend fighting off weeds.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
The things that make Charlotte a beautiful place to live — short, mild winters and long months of hot, humid weather — make it a haven for insects. Here are the worst ones and what to do about them.
\n","content":"\nThe things that make Charlotte a beautiful place to live — short, mild winters and long months of hot, humid weather — make it a haven for insects. If you haven’t encountered any of these pesky interlopers yet, chances are you will at some point. Here’s a list of the worst backyard pests in Charlotte, N.C., and how to deal with them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/BLU_yMhW80SMMI1oRONPvyLPmrRvT25vN4tePCqNjbmnM15jryrQIXtUr_Xz0gChposzndRdYhJLTLYsWz_9ybOVTck2pS4zD9wWqulRU3nW1tQZL8V9P6JwK7od8LVUTaiSkaza\")
These little suckers attach themselves to the undersides of the leaves of herbaceous and woody plants and suck the life out of them. The easiest way to detect aphids is to examine the bottoms of leaves from time to time. If you see a plant looking unusually wilted or developing strangely shaped or colored new leaves, the aphids have invaded. It’s possible to treat aphids without chemicals, by crushing them, spraying them with water from a hose, or treating them with neem oil.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll first see these pests gathering in late spring, forming small bags that resemble upside-down ice cream cones. Conifers are the most susceptible trees. The sooner you notice them, the better. You can treat with a biological, nontoxic pesticide, Bacillus thuringiensis, or BT, but only when the worms are young and feeding. Spinosad is your next line of defense, effective on the adult worms and also low in toxicity. Whatever you do, don’t ignore the problem, because it will only get worse the following year.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_gfirmzWi6t0nx5-2kpUgsrgLUbSTri7lPAbERHMSOpoxC6I1fpWrG0fSZ-G3zfLiBoLJsqdwtQKDL91eizRApL2hpt-wTubVRzySXRcMDMvtGyadKJA6haLiOaKsHJJcbXJ-M0b\")
Nothing ruins a good time in the yard faster than fire ants. These inconsiderate invaders do great damage to the lawn and deliver nasty bites that you won’t soon forget. There are many control methods, from treating mounds with boiling water to drenching them with insecticide. One of the most effective techniques is the two-step method, which can reduce the population by 80 to 90 percent. This involves spreading a bait over your yard in the early part of fall. The ants will take this back to their nest where it will kill the queen. The second step involves treating individual mounds with a granule or dust insecticide.
\n\n\n\nWhile mosquitoes don’t do any damage to the lawn, they can ruin a backyard party. They’re also the deadliest creature on the planet! The best way to take care of this pest is to prevent them from breeding in the first place. Make sure there is absolutely no standing water anywhere in the yard. If you have a birdbath, replace the water every few days, and if you have a pond or water feature, treat it with non-toxic mosquito dunks every couple of weeks.
\n\n\n\nPlanting fragrant plants like mint, lavender, geraniums. and rosemary around decks and patios can help to repel these bloodsuckers. If all else fails, installing oscillating deck fans can help to at least keep these slow-flying pests at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/8-cnXREv09d7KZnxV_WpM4iROBuk1IaRkCzYF-hehaPeXl15-Re-j9oO5bkUIdF6jDjmSalXZxthOUIDPV7vqq7WAIOai7shYz5OzNysxIZ5RuQ3GdD_mE5xyldYhOV3hGJwhOg4\")
When you begin to see inexplicable brown spots on an otherwise healthy lawn, you can be almost certain that a grub is to blame. If you suspect you have a grub issue, try to lift up a piece of affected turf. If it rolls up and seems to lack roots, then you know you have grubs. To avoid using chemicals on your lawn, use milky spore, nematodes, or neem oil to kill the grubs in the soil. Remember, the healthier your lawn is, the more difficult it is for grubs to make a dent in it. Mow consistently and make sure you irrigate the right amount.
\n\n\n\nNo matter what pests you’re dealing with, prevention and early detection are the best defenses you can mount against them. Treating an all-out infestation will always be more difficult and time-consuming. So keep your eyes open and do your best to defeat the worst pests before they become problematic.
\n\n\n\nWant to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte Lawn Care page.
\n\n\n\nJay Keaton is a lawn care specialist who focuses on organic pest control. His yard is filled with chrysanthemums, basil, borage, marigolds and other plants that repel bugs.
Gardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these […]
\n","content":"\nGardeners take note: You know those fussy plants that struggle in the hottest months of summer and require special care to survive winter? These are, without a doubt, nonnative species, those interlopers not acclimated to the conditions of this region. If you want to save yourself the hassle of bending over backward to keep these plants alive, choose native plants for Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nNative plants have the upper hand because they evolved to thrive in North Carolina. They provide excellent habitat and forage for pollinators and wildlife. Best of all, they need little care compared to their invasive counterparts. Here are a few of the best native plants for Charlotte, N.C.
\n\n\n\nA local, well-adapted to forests and riverbanks, cardinal flower is a showy native that can grow in the sun and shade. This beautiful perennial can grow from one to six feet tall. While it doesn’t need much water, it prefers slightly moist soil. Blooming from May until October, you’ll see lots of hummingbirds stop by to feast on the nectar.
\n\n\n\nThis native flower is a primary food source for monarch butterflies. This variety of milkweed has bright orange blooms that last from May to August. It thrives best in full sun and dry soil, requiring almost no maintenance to flourish.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rBbq0WF4wWvvYwX5TvdFYCNWhhcn72IvOsFDTENKJvS1cheazSie18on_zi-V6DgzlcHiDvp0V2DBN8pip9pQzGlyjPSYrfnJqQ0BuNJ1RWTGheuHOfDLDXLUD6Mge_elInNec9m\")
This mountain native loves nothing more than sunshine and well-drained soil. From May to June, large spires of yellow flowers adorn the top of this plant’s branches. It’s great for adding color and height to the edges of a garden. Standing three to six feet tall, this is a tall perennial that will steal the show with early spring blooms.
\n\n\n\nThe blue blooms of the dwarf crested iris are great if you’re looking for flowers to plant in shaded areas. Standing less than a foot tall, this miniature blooms from March to May, offering bursts of color and food for hummingbirds in early spring.
\n\n\n\nThis small shrub features long, arching branches and bright foliage. It blooms with striking clusters of purple berries in fall and winter, providing food for wildlife. Usually reaching heights of three to five feet, beautyberry performs best in part shade. This makes it an ideal understory shrub or edge planting. The beautyberry requires little maintenance and will provide color when most of your other plants are dormant.
\n\n\n\nBeloved by gardeners and butterflies alike, buttonbush is a multistemmed shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall. The round white or pink flowers that dangle from the tips of the branches are irresistible to butterflies. Well suited for shade and part shade, this is another excellent understory plant that performs well on the edge of a property.
\n\n\n\nThis is only a taste of the many species native to our area. Hopefully, it can stimulate your imagination about the landscape possibilities when you choose native plants to Charlotte. Remember, the more native your landscape, the more time you can spend enjoying it, rather than maintaining it.
\n\n\n\nLooking to learn more about lawn care and gardening in Charlotte? Visit our Charlotte, NC lawn care page.
There’s so much to do in Charlotte that it’s easy to put off maintenance on that patch of greenery on your property — your lawn. However, it’s important to take a moment away from enjoying the good life to keep it in tip-top shape. The following is a short guide to lawn mowing in Charlotte. […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s so much to do in Charlotte that it’s easy to put off maintenance on that patch of greenery on your property — your lawn. However, it’s important to take a moment away from enjoying the good life to keep it in tip-top shape. The following is a short guide to lawn mowing in Charlotte.
\n\n\n\nTall fescue is a dominant type of grass in the Piedmont — the wide plateau of rolling hills in which Charlotte lies. Like all cool-season grasses that are grown in Charlotte, it grows most actively in spring and fall and can go dormant and brown in the summer. Some warm-season grasses are also grown in Charlotte, and they have their peak growing season in the summer.
\n\n\n\nSo depending on your grass type, you either need to back off your mowing schedule (for cool-season grasses) or step it up (for warm-season grasses) during the hottest months.
\n\n\n\nRegardless of when you mow, to help support the long-term health of your turf, set your mower blades at the highest recommended setting for your turn type. In the case of tall fescue, that’s 2½ to 3½ inches. Longer blades of grass can make the most of the sunlight to build deep roots, which will ensure a healthier, more drought-resistant lawn.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third off the length of your grass at one time. If you’ve let things go a little wild, increase the frequency of your mows to gradually cut it down to the size you desire, rather than cutting off all the length at once. Additionally, you should keep your mower blades sharp so that they are cutting the grass instead of tearing it.
\n\n\n\nRather than bagging up grass clippings, allow the mower to spread them out across your yard. They will slowly release nutrients back into the soil, and can reduce your need for fertilization. Just make sure you only mow when the lawn is dry to prevent clumping. Clumps of grass can smother grass and leave yellow spots.
\n\n\n\nCharlotte lawns thrive best when given an inch of water per week. Programming your irrigation to deposit an inch per week is ideal, preferably just before dawn. This reduces evaporation, allows the maximum moisture penetration into the soil and reduces the vulnerability to fungus and disease that can come when grass is left wet overnight. A rain sensor can help you make sure that you don’t waste water irrigating after a heavy rainfall, and can also help keep you from overwatering. One deep watering is far superior to several shallow waterings. Watering deeply encourages the deep growth of roots, which ensures a healthier lawn overall.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is tall fescue, don’t let it dry out and die during its summer dormancy. Keep up your watering schedule especially if the summer has an extended hot and dry period.
If you are manually watering with a sprinkler, wait until your lawn is thirst to water. You can tell by observing the blades of grass– if they are folding or curling slightly, they are dehydrated. Thirsty grass also takes on a slightly bluish cast and footprints will remain visible for a minute or so. Watering at this point is perfect for preventing damage and maintaining perfect lawn health.
Applying fertilizer in the heat of the season can potentially burn the turf. Save fertilizer application for spring and fall, and stop applying fertilizer at least a month in advance of hot weather.
\n\n\n\nDo you have questions about lawn care in Charlotte? Be sure to check out our Charlotte, N.C., lawn care page.
\n","title":"Basic Guide to Lawn Mowing and Maintenance in Charlotte","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2.0652777777777778,"src":"/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/1789c/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/107df/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg 320w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/293e9/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg 500w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/f2cbb/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg 800w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/1789c/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg 960w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/e0f2f/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.jpg 1487w","srcWebp":"/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/1dd6e/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/67b76/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp 320w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/8df11/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp 500w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/98a65/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp 800w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/1dd6e/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp 960w,\n/static/d76c254d8a5e37794e870219b4ad6c76/3a3fa/rsz_tall-fescue-festuca_arundinacea-wikimedia.webp 1487w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Basic Guide to Lawn Mowing and Maintenance in Charlotte | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}}],"metaTitle":"Everything You Need to Know About North Carolina Page % Page | Wikilawn %","metaDescription":"Looking for info on North Carolina ? Wikilawn has everything you need to know.","prevPageLink":"/category/lawn-care/nc/","nextPageLink":"/category/lawn-care/nc/page/3/","currentPage":2}}}