![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Finding any weed in your Jacksonville lawn can be frustrating, but some are easy to control with common lawn sprays. But, there are a few weeds that require a bit more work.
\n","content":"\nPicture this: You’ve gone outside to enjoy a sunny Jacksonville day when you notice something odd on your lawn. It sure doesn’t look like the rest of your grass, and upon closer inspection, you may notice dying turf near it. You’ve stumbled upon a weed, but what should you do about it?
\n\n\n\nThe best way to deal with these leafy intruders is to identify them so you can create an appropriate game plan. Let’s learn about some of the worst Jacksonville weeds so you can grab the right tools and get your lawn back to normal.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nWeeds compete for the water, nutrients, and sun your turfgrass needs. Left unaddressed, they can spread over your lawn, garden, and neighboring properties.
\n\n\n\nBesides the competition for resources, weeds are usually a sign of something wrong. Overwatering is one of the most common problems that encourage weed growth. However, it also may be that your turf isn’t getting the nutrients it needs or is mowed too low to reach a healthy density.
\n\n\n\nYou may feel torn about what weed control method to try first. When choosing between manual and chemical control, you’ll need to consider time, effectiveness, and environmental concerns.
\n\n\n\nRemoving weeds by hand is the most eco-friendly method. However, it can take a lot of time, especially if you have more than a few weeds. You must pull up all plant parts to effectively remove weeds by hand. Many weeds can grow back from roots or tubers left in the ground.
\n\n\n\nHere are some tips to keep in mind:
\n\n\n\nHerbicides are specially-formulated products designed to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides target specific plants, such as grassy or broadleaf weeds. On the other hand, non-selective herbicides kill plants more indiscriminately.
\n\n\n\nAlways read herbicide labels carefully to avoid hurting you, your lawn, or your pets.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis weed can be tricky to spot, but you’ll see it everywhere once you recognize it. It resembles turfgrass but is often a lighter green with broader leaves. Crabgrass gravitates toward bare patches in your lawn. It germinates in spring and dies in fall, leaving brown patches and making your lawn’s color uneven.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass can show up on any lawn. The best way to keep it at bay is to choose an appropriate grass type for Jacksonville. Keep your lawn thick and healthy with proper maintenance, so there are no bare spots for crabgrass to invade. If prevention doesn’t work, apply pre-emergent herbicides in early March before temperatures are consistently above 65 to 70 degrees to avoid harming your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers dry soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dollarweed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ranjith-chemmad / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nA rose by any other name would smell just as sweet, but this weed is just as annoying whether it’s called dollarweed or pennywort. The coin-themed names come from the size and round shape of the leaves. Dollarweed is low to the ground and spreads with seeds, rhizomes, and the occasional tuber. Its small white flowers can bloom year-round.
\n\n\n\nDollarweed can thrive in many soil types, with or without sun, but prefers moist soil. To discourage this weed, avoid overwatering your lawn and improve drainage. Once you spot them, pull them out by hand or use selective or non-selective herbicides. Ensure you pull out all the white rhizomes, or it might make a comeback.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates sandy, loam, or clay soils with acidic to neutral pH
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling, pre-emergent herbicides, or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"honeybee](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Dandelion.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nDandelions are some of the most iconic weeds. They’re easy to spot once they have their signature yellow flowers or fluffy white seedheads. Your inner child may want to blow those seeds away and make a wish, but resist the temptation — you’d only be spreading them around your yard and neighborhood. These plants are best dealt with before they produce seeds.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent dandelions is to keep your turf dense and healthy, so there’s no room for them. Hand pulling isn’t a very effective removal method because it has deep roots, but it may be feasible in small yards.
\n\n\n\nApply pre-emergent herbicides before dandelions germinate when soil temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Spot treat with broadleaf herbicides but avoid triclopyr because it can harm the warm-season turfgrasses in Jacksonville.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Low; dandelions are edible unless you have a latex allergy
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Broadleaf herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Goosegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nAlso called wiregrass or crowfootgrass, goosegrass gets its name from finger-like spikes that pop out from the same spot when it flowers. Before it reaches that point, it will be low-growing in matted, grass-like clumps with a white leaf sheath at the base. Because of its growth pattern, it survives low mowing remarkably well.
\n\n\n\nGoosegrass grows so aggressively in thin lawns it might give you goosebumps. Its favorite soils are compact and wet, so aeration may help make your yard less welcoming. Need to break out the herbicides? You can use pre- or post-emergent herbicides with ingredients like dithiopyr, oryzalin, pendimethalin, or prodiamine.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers compact, wet soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre- or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chamberbitter.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Prenn / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThis invasive plant will leave you bitter if it takes over your Jacksonville lawn. Chamberbitter has small, round leaves on long stems with bursting pods that launch seeds everywhere. It looks similar to the powderpuff mimosa, a native groundcover in Florida. Two kinds are found in the Sunshine State – long-stalked chamberbitter (Phyllanthus tenellus) and the smaller gripeweed (Phyllanthus urinaria).
\n\n\n\nGripeweed loves moist, overwatered soils and can survive even when mowed 2 inches high. This weed germinates from early summer to early fall. You can pull out these weeds by hand, but don’t shake the roots before tossing them in the trash — you could accidentally spread their seeds.
\n\n\n\nYoung chamberbitter can be controlled by pre- or post-emergent herbicide, but older, woody specimens may need two or three applications to die back. Apply pre-emergent applications in April to get ahead of germination and seed spreading. Be cautious applying post-emergent herbicides to centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, since they also may be harmed.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10A
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Prefers warm soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent herbicides work best, but you also can use post-emergent or hand-pulling
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sedges.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Tann / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nSedges may look like grass, but you can identify these weeds by the angular shape of their stems. Yellow nutsedge (Cyperus escuelentus) and purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus) can be identified by their small flowers when in bloom. Summer is the season they’re at their peak, but they can grow year-round in temperate Florida.
\n\n\n\nSedges attack lawns without well-established root systems. Avoid overwatering and excessive foot traffic to address the root problem, then try removal. Nutsedges spread with tubers on their roots, making them difficult to remove by hand. Check periodically to see if they grow back. You may need to repeatedly treat this weed with herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8A-10B for yellow nutsedge and 3A-10B for purple nutsedge
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most types, but prefers moist soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand-pulling and herbicides
\n\n\n\nDandelion weeders are a popular tool for weed removal in lawns and gardens. You also can use garden hoes.
While you can kill individual weeds, the war with weeds will never end. A gust of wind or an animal passing through could bring new weed seeds with them. However, preventative methods like pre-emergent herbicides and proper lawn maintenance give you the best chance of avoiding sprouted, visible weeds.
It depends on what your lawn goals are. If you want a picturesque lawn, no. Weeds will always compete with your grass and create an inconsistent appearance, if not patches and brown spots.
However, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. A weed is only a weed if it’s unwanted or threatens something desirable. Several weeds are beneficial to Florida’s ecosystem. Thus, some homeowners choose to have a wild, less manicured lawn to be eco-friendly.
If this is the route you want to go, research your options thoroughly. Simply letting your lawn grow unattended isn’t necessarily going to create a natural utopia. You will likely need to actively cultivate some native plants and eliminate any invasive species that try to return. Your yard will become lower-maintenance once fully established.
You’ll need a vigilant eye and a dedicated lawn care regime to keep your lawn weed-free. If you’d rather not give up your weekend outing to Riverside Park, consider hiring a Jacksonville lawn care professional to do the dirty work. A pro can identify weeds quickly and has the best products on the market to eliminate them for good.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Pixabay
\n","title":"6 Worst Lawn Weeds in Jacksonville (and How to Get Rid of Them)","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.509433962264151,"src":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1789c/Lawn-weed.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/107df/Lawn-weed.jpg 320w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/293e9/Lawn-weed.jpg 500w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/f2cbb/Lawn-weed.jpg 800w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1789c/Lawn-weed.jpg 960w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/c26c2/Lawn-weed.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1dd6e/Lawn-weed.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/67b76/Lawn-weed.webp 320w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/8df11/Lawn-weed.webp 500w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/98a65/Lawn-weed.webp 800w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/1dd6e/Lawn-weed.webp 960w,\n/static/5f18754c5fd8fe6cb36b2ede1c25c39f/3cc96/Lawn-weed.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"6 Worst Lawn Weeds in Jacksonville (and How to Get Rid of Them) | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Your lawn shouldn’t have to compete with leafy intruders. Learn to identify and rid your turf of the worst weeds in Jacksonville."}}},{"node":{"id":"c4a93188-9617-5631-a91d-50a6a9fc8386","slug":"best-native-plants-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/best-native-plants-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Lauren Bryant is a freelance writer based out of Eugene, Oregon, with a B.A. in English and a minor in comics and cartoon studies. She is excitedly awaiting the day when she can grow her own edible garden.","name":"Lauren Bryant","id":"104563f0-6820-5e73-b732-a5aa9cd0fd4c","path":"/author/lauren-bryant/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/59c00f89f2a61befe0b5d36cc3b0cc62?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"The subtropical climate of Jacksonville surely calls for a beautiful tropical garden. But wait — don’t purchase imported landscape plants just yet. North Florida has many gorgeous native plants, some only found in this state. You may even find native alternatives to plants you’re considering, such as hibiscus and azaleas. Why native plants? Not only […]
\n","content":"\nThe subtropical climate of Jacksonville surely calls for a beautiful tropical garden. But wait — don’t purchase imported landscape plants just yet. North Florida has many gorgeous native plants, some only found in this state. You may even find native alternatives to plants you’re considering, such as hibiscus and azaleas.
\n\n\n\nWhy native plants? Not only will they be easier to care for, but the local wildlife will thank you for it. These plants are much more likely to survive Jacksonville weather, pests, and diseases. If you’re ready to make your garden part of the local ecosystem, consider the following 14 native plants.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coral-Bean.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Everglades National Park / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYou get a two-for-one deal with coral beans: beautiful flowers and seed pods. The plant grows red tubular flowers in spring, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. By fall, they’ll turn into pea pods with bright red seeds. They may look appetizing, but put away your fork and knife — they’re toxic if ingested.
\n\n\n\nCoral beans are visually appealing in spring and fall but don’t look exciting when not flowering or producing seeds. They’ll play an excellent supporting role in your garden landscape, so pair them with various plants for visual interest year-round.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6a-9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 6 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial in Northern Florida
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or light shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Fertile, sandy, and well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The seeds are poisonous – keep away from pets and children
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Pink-Pinxter-Azalea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: EoRdE6 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThough many azaleas come from Asia or are hybrids, some are native to Florida. Pink pinxter azalea is native to the Jacksonville area, though other Florida varieties may also thrive here. This plant’s fragrant white to dark pink flowers are stunning in spring and attract hummingbirds and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nPink pinxter azaleas have decent pest and disease resistance, but watch out for mites, iron deficiency, and mushroom rot. They do best when shielded from harsh winds. This plant is relatively slow-growing and needs little pruning. If you decide to prune, wait until after flowering. Do not allow people or animals to ingest this plant, as it could be deadly.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6b-10a
\n\n\n\nMature size: 10-15 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Perennial
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Highly toxic if ingested; could be fatal
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Beautyberry.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Eric Hunt / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nAs the name suggests, the American beautyberry’s fruit is the star of the show. Birds love eating them and have thus spread the seeds all over Florida. Humans can eat these berries in small amounts or make them into jellies and wines. The purple fruit appears around September, but you can enjoy its lavender-pink flowers in spring and summer.
\n\n\n\nThis drought-tolerant plant works well for borders. If you decide to prune it, do so before it flowers for the best results.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 3-8 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers rich soils but can also grow in poor, sandy soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic for humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Black-Eyed-Susan.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nLove wildflowers? The yellow, orange, and red colors of the Black-eyed Susan are a bright and cheery choice for gardeners in the Sunshine State. They flower in summer and fall. Use it for your butterfly garden, or pick some for a beautiful bouquet.
\n\n\n\nBlack-eyed Susan is easy to grow and tough. It can handle drought and salt, making it ideal for coastal homes in Jacksonville. While they’re great for creating borders or carpets of flowers, they could become a weed since their seeds spread and germinate readily.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 2-11
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Perennial
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Can grow in most soil types
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Not poisonous to humans, but can be a skin irritant or cause allergic reactions if consumed; could be poisonous to grazing animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Beach-Sunflower.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bob Peterson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe beach sunflower blooms practically year-round. Like other sunflowers, the flower head will turn to face the sun as it moves through the sky. Butterflies like its flowers, and birds like its fruit. Though there are several varieties throughout Florida, you should use the local variety, cucumber dune sunflower, to avoid hybridization with the native plant population.
\n\n\n\nBeach sunflowers are well-suited to hot, dry, salty coastal climates. Don’t overwater this drought-resistant plant, or it may fall victim to sunflower rust. Though beach sunflowers may not survive a freeze, they will reseed and quickly spread again, making an excellent ground cover. Fertilize once or twice a year at most.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8b-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 2-4 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial, but will be annual if there are freezing temperatures
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Sandy or well-drained
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Oakleaf-Hydrangea.jpg\")
Photo Credit: normanack / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe oakleaf hydrangea is aptly named for its leaf shape. The broad, dark leaves grow up to 12 inches long, with the biggest growing in the shade. The leaves may turn red, bronze, or purple in the fall and may stay on the plant into the winter. Cone-shaped flower clusters bloom in the summer months, then turn light pink or purple. In winter, the unusual peeling bark adds visual interest even when the plant is bare.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer shade, oakleaf hydrangeas are perfect for yards with tree cover. They need little water or maintenance, but you should water them during dry spells and prune them periodically to your liking. Leave room for it to grow and send up new shoots, or get a dwarf or compact cultivar. Oakleaf hydrangeas aren’t kid or pet friendly since eating any part is toxic.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9a
\n\n\n\nMature size: 6-10 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full shade, but partial is tolerable
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Does best in fertile, well-drained soil but can survive in other conditions
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: All parts are toxic when ingested; keep away from children and pets
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coontie.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Leonora (Ellie) Enking / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nThe coontie may look like a fern or palm tree, but it’s a cycad. Its glossy, feathery leaves are food for Atala butterfly larvae, a species once thought to be extinct in Florida. While the native people in this region historically created cooking flour from its stems, they are toxic unless properly prepared.
\n\n\n\nCoontie has a high drought tolerance and does well in the cold. Its mild salt tolerance helps it survive in coastal areas like Jacksonville. It does best in well-drained soil but will survive in full sun, partial shade, or full shade. Use coontie as a specimen plant or fill large areas with it for a wild look.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cycad (shrub-sized)
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 10a-9b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet tall, 3-5 feet wide
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun, partial shade, and full shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Well-draining soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The stem is toxic to ingest unless properly prepared
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Chickasaw-Plum.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lm13700 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nIf you plant a chickasaw plum tree, its tiny white flowers will entice you with their smell. They look particularly striking since they bloom before the leaves have returned after winter. Soon the flowers will turn into red fruits that turn yellow as they ripen. You can eat them yourself or watch wild animals enjoy the feast.
\n\n\n\nChickasaw plum trees grow quickly and resist most pests and diseases. Though they’re drought tolerant, they may need a drink during dry spells. One feature you may or may not like is the abundance of tree suckers, which are vertical stems growing near the base. They aren’t harmful to the tree and can benefit wildlife, but some people find them unappealing and messy. Prune them if you’d like.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9
\n\n\n\nMature size: Typically 6-12 feet, but can be up to 25 feet tall
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but can tolerate dappled shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Tolerates a wide variety of soil types but prefers acidic soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low once established
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Low poison severity from cyanide in leaves, stems, and seeds when ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Southern-Live-Oak.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nWant a break from the harsh sun? Once established, a large southern live oak will provide plenty of shade in your yard. When fully grown, they can have a height of up to 60 feet and a spread of 100 feet. They can live for hundreds of years. You may see Spanish moss growing on it, but not to worry — it won’t hurt the tree.
\n\n\n\nLive oaks are best for large yards, so they have ample space to grow. Plan other landscaping accordingly; you don’t want your tree stealing all the sunlight from plants that need it. Pair with shade-tolerant plants to make sure all your green friends are happy. To improve wind resistance, prune your live oak regularly when young.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7b-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 60 feet tall with a spread of 100 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen or evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Low toxicity to humans if young leaves or raw acorns are ingested
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Sabal-Palm.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nFlorida and palm trees go together like shrimp and grits. Want a local variety? Sabal palms earned the title of state tree in 1953. They’re also called cabbage palms or palmettos because the immature leaves taste like cabbage. The bud, or heart of palm, is also edible. Sabal palms produce tiny white flowers that pollinators love, then small black fruits that make a good snack for wild animals.
\n\n\n\nDespite the many edible parts of this plant, it’s not the best idea to handle the tree too much since the leaves may cause skin irritation. Sabal palms can handle salt spray but aren’t as tolerant of salt near their roots. Watch out for the fatal Lethal Bronzing Disease (LBD). While it’s incurable, preventative treatments could save your tree if others nearby are infected.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Palm
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 7b-11b
\n\n\n\nMature size: 40-50 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Sandy soil or well-drained loam
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Skin irritant
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Tickseed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Alabama Extension / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThe name may not sound pretty, but don’t judge a book by its cover (or title, in this case). These daisy-like flowers cover fields, gardens, and roadsides throughout Florida in spring, summer, and sometimes fall. Coreopsis, or tickseed, is Florida’s state wildflower and a type of aster. Though most have yellow petals, some varieties come in other colors, such as the purple Georgia tickseed.
\n\n\n\nThere are several varieties of tickseeds in Florida. Coastal plain tickseed, Leavenworth’s tickseed, Texas tickseed, and Georgia tickseed are all found naturally in Duval County. Tickseed is typically drought tolerant, but it depends on the species. While short-lived, they can stick around for years since they reseed themselves. Taller flowers may need support to stay upright.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Flower
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 1-3 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Annual to short-lived perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Prefers well-drained soils that aren’t overly rich; tolerates acidic, slightly alkaline, sandy, loam, and clay soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate to low
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic to humans and animals
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Hibiscus.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Quartl / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nWhile some hibiscus varieties originate in Asia, several are right at home in the Florida landscape. The varieties found naturally in Duval County are comfort root, scarlet rosemallow, swamp rosemallow, and crimson-eyed rosemallow. Though their colorful flowers are short-lived, hibiscus plants produce many flowers throughout the flowering season. Hummingbirds and butterflies will flock to them for nectar.
\n\n\n\nHibiscuses come in shrub and tree forms suitable for hedges. These plants may be a good fit if your yard is too wet for other perennials since they prefer moist soil. Hibiscus are sensitive to the cold weather in North Florida, so they may lose their leaves and die away above ground. However, they can still return from the roots through shoots in spring. Watch out for aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub or tree
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 8-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: 4 to 20 feet, depending on the variety; annual freezes will make the plant generally shorter
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennials
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Deciduous
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Full sun or partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Any soil that is not too dry; tolerates extended flooding and sandy, loamy, clay, and acidic soils
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Coral-Honeysuckle.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Zeynel Cebeci / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nThey may not live under the sea like real coral, but their clusters of long flowers are just as pretty. Coral honeysuckle is also called trumpet honeysuckle because of the flower’s shape. Most coral honeysuckle flowers are red, but some cultivars have pink or yellow flowers. Butterflies and hummingbirds will enjoy the flowers, and songbirds will enjoy the fruit that follows.
\n\n\n\nThis vine is suitable for trellises, fences, hanging baskets, or erosion-preventing ground cover. Coral honeysuckle is low-maintenance, drought-resistant, and pest-resistant but won’t flower as nicely in the shade and may die back in freezing weather. Its fast growth can be aggressive, so carefully direct growth where you want. This local species is an excellent substitute for the invasive Japanese honeysuckle.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 4-10
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 15 feet, but it depends on the supporting structure
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Semi-evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Does best in slightly acidic soils but tolerates most soil types; doesn’t do well in dry sands
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: May upset stomach if consumed
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Carolina-Jessamine.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jim Evans / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWant a taste of spring flowers before your other plants bloom? Carolina jessamine flowers in late winter and early spring. The flowers are yellow, fragrant, and trumpet-shaped (thus the nickname “evening trumpet flower”). The “Pride of Augusta” cultivar has double flowers and a longer blooming season. Look but don’t touch — the sap contains a skin irritant, and the whole plant is toxic, sometimes even to honeybees.
\n\n\n\nCarolina jessamine looks great on trellises, fences, and pergolas. It also works as a groundcover in sloped yards. The vine grows quickly but is containable. Carolina jessamine has few disease and insect problems and tolerates frost and drought. It may drop leaves if too dry, but it will bounce back quickly. Don’t overfertilize, as it reduces flowering.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Vine
\n\n\n\nUSDA Hardiness Zone: 6a-10b
\n\n\n\nMature size: Up to 20 feet
\n\n\n\nDuration: Perennial
\n\n\n\nFoliage: Evergreen
\n\n\n\nSunlight needs: Prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade
\n\n\n\nSoil preferences: Moist, rich, well-drained soil
\n\n\n\nWater needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nPotential hazards: The whole plant contains poisonous toxins, including nectar that may be toxic to honeybees. It also has skin-irritating sap.
\n\n\n\nJacksonville falls in the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9A, with this zone determined by the average minimum winter temperature. While non-native plants may still thrive in these conditions, native plants do even better. Native plants have adapted to everything in the area, from weather to soil salinity.
\n\n\n\nThat said, each yard is slightly different. Get a soil test from your local cooperative extension or soil testing lab to learn about its texture (sand, silt, clay, or loam) and pH, nutrient, and salinity levels. You’ll also need to consider your current landscape. Are there shady trees? A nearby body of water? Ask your neighbors what plants have done well in their yards to understand what to expect.
\n\n\n\nYou could choose plants specifically to attract wildlife, practical plants to provide shade on your patio, or the lowest-maintenance plants possible. Once you know what you want out of your yard, you can narrow down your choices.
\n\n\n\nThe bad news for North Florida residents is that many plants that bloom year-round in Central and South Florida won’t bloom in Jacksonville. You could get lantana, a native of South Florida, for your yard. However, be sure not to choose a non-native version as this species is invasive in the area and toxic to livestock. If you need your floral fix in winter, consider houseplants instead.
The best native plants to adorn your fence are coral honeysuckle and Carolina jessamine. If you’d prefer a non-climbing plant to hide your fence with, hydrangea and hibiscus will add the desired visual interest.
North Florida tends to have very sandy soils. This soil texture is good for plants that need good drainage but won’t work well for plants that prefer clay. The native plants on this list either prefer or tolerate the sandy soils typical in Jacksonville.
Sometimes, the best way to decide which plants to buy is to see them in person. The employees at your local native plant nursery can help guide you through the plant selection process. Here are some local garden centers that carry native plants:
\n\n\n\nWant to buy online? You can purchase plant seeds from the Florida Wildflowers Growers Cooperative.
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, consider planting a new lawn or implementing low-maintenance landscaping. If you’re worried about storms tearing apart all your hard work, focus on hurricane-resistant landscaping to keep your garden and house safe.
You may find your new gardening journey overwhelming. Don’t be afraid to contact local landscaping pros in Jacksonville to handle anything you’re uncomfortable with or don’t have time for.
Main Image Credit: Canna lirio / PublicDomainPictures
\n","title":"14 Best Native Plants for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1789c/Native-plant.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/107df/Native-plant.jpg 320w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/293e9/Native-plant.jpg 500w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/f2cbb/Native-plant.jpg 800w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1789c/Native-plant.jpg 960w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/c26c2/Native-plant.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1dd6e/Native-plant.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/67b76/Native-plant.webp 320w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/8df11/Native-plant.webp 500w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/98a65/Native-plant.webp 800w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/1dd6e/Native-plant.webp 960w,\n/static/d54c0b2e81b504d6f838d4794af39dd8/3cc96/Native-plant.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"14 Best Native Plants for Jacksonville, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want easy-to-care-for plants that are good for the local ecosystem? These native plants will thrive in your Jacksonville yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"079c05ff-d6c4-5155-8d73-697c9856b528","slug":"watering-restrictions-in-jacksonville","path":"/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/watering-restrictions-in-jacksonville/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"075cc120-3dd3-51e4-aead-643f50a8453e","name":"Jacksonville","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/jacksonville/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 6th, 2019","excerpt":"Like many other Florida cities, Jacksonville has imposed watering restrictions. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the rules.
\n","content":"\nJust because we live next to an ocean, doesn’t mean we have access to unlimited water supplies. Fresh water is one of our most precious resources. That’s why there are watering restrictions in Jacksonville and many other cities in Florida. Before you turn on the sprinkler or hose, make sure you’re up to date with the regulations.
\n\n\n\nWatering restrictions are enforced year-round in Jacksonville and throughout the 18 Northeast Florida counties in the St. Johns River Water Management District. You may water only on Saturday if your address ends in an odd number, and on Sunday if your address ends with an even number. You get an extra day during Daylight Saving Time (March-November). By limiting lawn watering, the hopes to conserve water during peak usage. Here’s a look at the summer schedule.
\n\n\n\nBut each year, when November arrives and you set back your clock an hour for Standard Time, your watering also must do a “fall back” to watering just once a week. That’s Saturday for odd-numbered addresses and Sunday for even-numbered addresses.
\n\n\n\nEven if it’s your day to water, you may not turn on the sprinklers between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. The reason? Most of the water ends up evaporating in the heat of the sun. You can turn the sprinklers on in the evening, but you could be inviting fungus and disease to your lawn since the grass will stay wet most of the night. The best time for watering is at sunup, first thing in the morning.
\n\n\n\nYou can water any day of the week if you’re using a handheld device like a hose. That doesn’t mean you can turn the hose on, lay it down, and let it run. You may also use “gray water,” (recycled bath or kitchen sink water). Areas of newly established landscaping may also be exempt.
\n\n\n\nViolating the watering or fertilization ordinances can cost you. The first offense results in a written warning. A second violation could get you a $50.00 ticket while a third violation could cost you more than $250.00.
\n\n\n\nThe Clean Water Act set forth by the City of Jacksonville also limits the amount of fertilizer that enters into the St. Johns River. Local retailers and property owners are also asked to be mindful of fertilizer treatments that could run off into the water supply. Required ground cover or landscaping that extends at least 6 feet around bodies of water help protect the water supply. Florida-Friendly landscaping, a program from the University of Florida Extension, stresses the use of native plants. Native plants need little water and are much easier to maintain.
\n\n\n\nThe St. Johns River Water Management District supplies North Florida with more than 540 million gallons of water a day. More than half of that is used in our landscapes. By following the watering restrictions in Jacksonville, we’ll keep the taps flowing for years to come.
\n\n\n\nHave questions about lawn care in Jacksonville? Make sure to check our Jacksonville, FL lawn care page.
Regular mowing and watering can mean the difference between a thick, green lawn and one riddled with brown spots and disease. This monthly lawn care guide for Jacksonville will help you get started with the essentials.
\n","content":"\nBoth humans and plants appreciate the beautiful spring weather in Jacksonville. The sunshine draws turfgrass out of its winter dormancy, and it’ll start growing in full force before you know it. Warm-season grasses awaken from their winter slumber in March, picking up speed in April and May as temperatures rise.
\n\n\n\nNow’s the best time to assess your turf’s health. Did it suffer damage in the winter? Do you need to make any changes to its care? Get your lawn care off on the right foot with these 11 lawn care tips for Jacksonville so you can enjoy healthy, beautiful turf all summer.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Rake-Debris.jpg\")
Photo Credit: David Goehring / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you take a break from mowing in winter, it’s easy to let debris accumulate on the lawn. Thoroughly clean up the following, so you have a clean slate to work with:
\n\n\n\nWhen your lawn is clean, you can get a better look at your grass and be better able to assess its health.
\n\n\n\nPro tip: Shredded leaves can make great mulch for your lawn. Here’s how to use them:
\n\n\n\nYou also can purchase a mulching mower to make this process more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you begin any spring lawn treatments, you should get a soil test. Soil tests reveal your soil’s pH levels. Most grasses prefer a pH between 5 and 6, though St. Augustinegrass can tolerate up to 7.5. If the soil pH is too high or low, it interferes with nutrient uptake. Florida’s soils tend to be acidic, but coastal properties may have more alkaline soils.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests also may show what nutrients are in your soil, so you don’t over or under-fertilize. However, not all tests cover nutrient analysis. Contact the University of Florida’s Duval County Extension Office or other soil testing lab to see their current offerings.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes your lawn feel a little spongy? It may have accumulated too much thatch. Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant matter on the soil’s surface. A little thatch is fine, but too much thatch (typically more than an inch) can suffocate your lawn and host pests and diseases. Use a thatch rake, dethatcher, or verticutter to remove this layer.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time to dethatch since your lawn has had some time to recover from winter and regain strength. However, you don’t necessarily need to dethatch every year. Most grass types can get by just fine with thatch removal every few years. The exceptions are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass, since they’re both prone to excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\nHere’s how often you should expect to dethatch the common grass types in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | When to Dethatch |
| Bahiagrass | Rarely an issue |
| Bermudagrass | Once a year; best in summer to reduce recovery time |
| Centipedegrass | Dethatch when the thatch layer is more than ¼ inch |
| St. Augustinegrass | Dethatch when the layer exceeds 1 inch; best done in early spring or midsummer |
| Zoysiagrass | Every few years |
![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith the pleasant weather, you’re probably enjoying more fresh air than before. Believe it or not, your lawn wants to breathe some of that air, too. Compact soil makes it more difficult for air, water, and nutrients to reach your turf’s roots. Heavy clay soils are more prone to compaction, but even the sandy soil in North Florida can fall victim to compaction with enough foot traffic or heavy equipment use.
\n\n\n\nTo relieve soil compaction, aerate your lawn. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, allowing your grass to spread out. Spike aeration also creates small holes for water, air, and nutrients but can ultimately cause the soil around the holes to become more compact. You can take advantage of the holes created by aeration to deliver seeds and fertilizer directly into the ground.
\n\n\n\nLate spring is the best time for this invasive procedure because grass can bounce back quickly during its growing season. It’s also good to wait until May or June when many warm-season weeds are no longer seeding. However, you don’t need to aerate every year. To see if you need aeration, push a screwdriver into the soil. If it’s difficult to do, your soil is compact and needs to be relieved.
\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Spraying-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour turfgrass may be one of many plants growing on your lawn this spring. Jacksonville is home to many troublesome weeds that compete for resources and affect curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nIf you can already see the weeds, then you need post-emergent herbicides. To get ahead of weeds that haven’t yet sprouted, apply pre-emergent herbicides. Always follow the labels to avoid killing your grass and polluting the local ecosystem. Pre-emergent herbicides are especially risky for newly seeded lawns. To minimize herbicide use, avoid excessive moisture and keep your grass dense and healthy to outcompete weeds naturally.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are categorized by type (broadleaf, grassy, sedges, or rushes) and lifecycle (annual, biennial, or perennial).
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have net-like veins on their broad leaves. They easily stand out from turfgrass, ruining the curb appeal of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are some broadleaf weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nYou can treat broadleaf weeds with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Mowing also helps control them, especially for lawns that aren’t well-established yet.
\n\n\n\nThese weeds have hollow, rounded stems. They can look quite similar to your existing grass, but they’re still a threat.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common grassy weeds in Jacksonville:
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds are best controlled with pre-emergent herbicides. Goosegrass germinates later than other weeds, so you can wait to apply pre-emergent control for three or four weeks into March. Post-emergent herbicides for grassy weeds are few and far between because they often kill turfgrass, too.
\n\n\n\nRushes have solid round stems, and sedges have solid triangular stems. These weeds prefer moist soils, so avoid overwatering your lawn. Some sedges also like compacted soil because of the poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nSome sedges and rushes in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nCultural control is a good first step for sedges and rushes. Aerate to improve drainage and avoid overwatering. You may need repeated herbicide applications to rid yourself of nutsedges.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live and die in less than a year. There are two types: summer annuals and winter annuals. Winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass will be at the end of their lifecycle, but summer annuals are just getting started.
\n\n\n\nSummer annual weeds in Jacksonville include:
\n\n\n\nThe winter annuals begin life in fall and die off by the end of spring, so you can decide whether to treat them now with post-emergent control or wait until they die on their own. You can get ahead of summer annual weeds with pre-emergent herbicide on the first of March or before temperatures reach 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for four to five days in a row.
\n\n\n\nCultural control is also effective for many annual weeds. Maintain a proper mowing, watering, and aeration schedule to discourage annual weeds.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a longer growing season of two years. During the first year, they will only show vegetative growth. By the second year, they will flower, then die after producing and spreading their seeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some Florida biennials:
\n\n\n\nBiennials are difficult to control in spring if they are seeding. If you remove or treat them with herbicides during their first year, you can halt their spread.
\n\n\n\nUnlike annuals and biennials, perennials can stick around for three or more years if not treated.
\n\n\n\nHere are some perennials you could find in your Jacksonville lawn:
\n\n\n\nBecause perennials reseed and regrow each year, post-emergent herbicides are most effective. It is easier to control perennials in the fall when they aren’t growing as aggressively.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_23679288519_2efd3eee6f_o.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEven healthy grass can fall victim to hungry pests. Here are some to keep an eye out for in spring:
\n\n\n\nWhite grubs: These scarab beetle larvae eat the roots of all grass types and are found underground. You can check to see if you have them by pulling back a one-square-foot flap of turf. If it lifts easily, it’s probably because the grubs have eaten the roots. Dead turf caused by these pests usually isn’t visible until late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nFall armyworms: Appearing in spring and fall, these caterpillars create brown damaged spots in lawns. They particularly like bermudagrass. You can control fall armyworms with pesticides, but they may inadvertently kill their natural predators.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs: St. Augustinegrass is particularly vulnerable to chinch bugs. They create yellow and brown damage patches that often appear in drought-stressed parts of your lawn. Spring pesticide applications, dethatching, and reducing fertilizer use can help prevent these pests.
\n\n\n\nHunting billbugs: Check your zoysia and bermudagrass for yellow coloring and easy-to-pull-up grass. This damage from hunting billbugs may be misdiagnosed as drought or disease. Keep your grass well-watered to withstand infestation, and use pesticides when there are more than ten billbugs per square foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWinter sometimes leaves an unpleasant surprise in your lawn: disease. Lawn diseases are usually caused by fungi and cause discoloration and death. If untreated, you could spread the disease with your lawn mower. You’ll need to identify the disease before you can begin treatment. Let’s review some common lawn diseases homeowners encounter in spring.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease creates discolored turfgrass patches around 1 foot to several feet in diameter. Dark rot infects the lowest part of the leaf, though not the roots. It is especially problematic for St. Augustine and zoysiagrass lawns but can affect all grass types grown in Jacksonville. Look for large patch throughout spring when temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat large patch:
\n\n\n\nFungicides like azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, fludioxonil, flutolanil, and iprodione will stop the spread. However, it’s better to prevent it in the first place with proper lawn maintenance practices. Water in the morning to avoid leaving the grass excessively wet. Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizer instead of quick-release, so you don’t fuel the fungus.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot slows down growth and makes lawns look thinner. Look for small, oval-shaped olive green or brown spots with dark borders. These spots will produce spores when humidity is high. This fungal disease most often affects St. Augustinegrass but also afflicts centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat gray leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nGray leaf spot doesn’t always cause serious problems. However, you can apply fungicides and plant-available silicon before sprigging to suppress gray leaf spot. Avoid compacted soil, overwatering, and quick-release nitrogen. The herbicide atrazine can put St. Augustinegrass at risk if it’s applied when temperatures are above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThis disease affects St. Augustinegrass lawns in late spring and early summer when rainfall is frequent. The grass is more likely to fall victim if soil fertility is low and light is scarce. Look for dark brown leaf spots and oblong lesions similar to those caused by gray leaf spot.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat Cercospora leaf spot:
\n\n\n\nUse slow-release nitrogen and potassium fertilizer to prevent Cercospora leaf spot. If the grass is already infected, apply fertilizer with quick-release nitrogen and potassium with a ratio of one to one. Water early in the morning (before 8 a.m.) to avoid long wet periods, and only when the grass shows signs of dehydration. Consider the Bitterblue cultivar for a more resistant St. Augustinegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThe silver dollar size of the round, straw-colored patches give this disease its name, though the patches can grow much larger. Look for small, pale lesions on the grass blades. Turfgrass may become thin and more susceptible to weeds. Dollar spot is common in spring and fall and does best when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat dollar spot:
\n\n\n\nKeep grass hydrated, as low soil moisture makes dollar spot worse. Provide sufficient nitrogen through fertilizer to improve resistance — too little makes the grass vulnerable, but too much can promote dollar spot and other diseases. Keep on top of other cultural practices like dethatching and aeration to keep grass healthy enough to fight this disease. Use fungicides if cultural control doesn’t help.
\n\n\n\nWhat to look for:
\n\n\n\nThough typically harmless, slime molds coat grass blades with unappealing spores and growths. Some may look like soot while others look like blobs. Slime molds appear in spring when the weather is warm and wet.
\n\n\n\nHow to treat slime mold:
\n\n\n\nSmile mold doesn’t technically require control. You can let it disappear naturally and your grass will be fine since the mold only sits on the surface. However, you can remove it with mowing or a strong stream of water.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is thinner than you’d like, it may benefit from overseeding. You can evenly spread the seeds over the whole lawn or target specific areas that are particularly thin. If your lawn has bare patches, consider sprigs, plugs, or sod to fill the area instead.
\n\n\n\nBefore planting more grass, make sure you’ve addressed any underlying issues. If overirrigation, poor soil quality, disease, pest infestation, or other improper care is the root cause of your thin grass, new grass won’t solve the problem. Proper lawn maintenance may make grass grow denser naturally, especially as the peak growing season approaches.
\n\n\n\nIf you decide to renovate or repair your lawn, here are the best times to establish each grass type.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Best Daily Low – High Temperatures for Planting (in Fahrenheit) | Best Time to Plant Seeds in Jacksonville |
| Bahiagrass | 77 – 86 | March – June |
| Bermudagrass | 75 – 80 | March – June |
| Centipedegrass | 70 – 90 | April – July |
| St. Augustinegrass* | 65 – 80 | March – May |
| Zoysiagrass | 80 – 95 | April – July |
*St. Augustine can’t be established with seeds, so the above information applies to sod, plugs, and sprigs.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass can best utilize nutrients when they’re actively growing. Use the results of your soil test to guide your purchases in the fertilizer aisle. The best fertilizers for Jacksonville lawns have slow-release nitrogen and little to no phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nFlorida soils tend to be high in phosphorus but keep an eye out for phosphorus deficiency just in case. Symptoms include reduced growth and dark green shoots that turn purple.
\n\n\n\nThe middle of April is the best time to fertilize your lawn. If you fertilize too soon or too much, it can lead to fertilizer runoff and harmful algal blooms in local waterways like the St. John’s River. You also should avoid fertilizing when there’s a hurricane, tropical storm, or flooding warning, so those nutrients don’t go down the drain.
\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/pexels-gustavo-fring-5163423.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYour winter break from mowing was nice, but now you’ll need to dust off the mower and get to work. First, take care of any mower maintenance:
\n\n\n\nWhile you’re at it, check the condition of your weed eater.
\n\n\n\nOnce your tools are ready, measure your grass. You don’t want to cut your grass too short, or it could affect its health. Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade at once. Doing so will damage the grass and hinder its growth. Here are the ideal mowing heights for common Jacksonville grass types:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5-2 inches |
| St. Augustine | 2.5-4 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 1-2.5 inches |
Your grass won’t reach its peak growth rate until summer, so you only need to mow once or twice a week during spring. Use its current height as your guide, and mow more frequently when you notice its growth rate increasing.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverwatering your lawn can have worse consequences than underwatering, as it encourages diseases and weeds. The University of Florida recommends homeowners irrigate on an as-needed basis to avoid overwatering and wastage. Only irrigate only when you see signs of dehydration, such as:
\n\n\n\nYou will likely need to water your lawn once or twice a week in spring, depending on rainfall. The spring showers in Jacksonville will likely save you time and lower your water bill.
\n\n\n\nMost Jacksonville lawns require ½ to ¾ inch of water at a time. Here are specific recommendations based on grass type:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Amount of Water per Application (in Inches) |
| Bahiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Bermudagrass | ¾ – 1 |
| Centipedegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| St. Augustinegrass | ½ – ¾ |
| Zoysiagrass | ½ – ¾ |
The best grass types for Jacksonville are:
• Bahiagrass
• Bermudagrass
• Centipedegrass
• St. Augustinegrass
• Zoysiagrass
All these grasses are warm-season grasses, which means they grow best when temperatures are warm. The bulk of your lawn care will be in summer, but you still need to care for your lawn in spring and fall to prepare it for the changing seasons.
If your current grass type isn’t working, you can try overseeding it with another to see how it fares. If your current grass type is doing well, it’s probably best to stick with what you’ve got.
Some people overseed their lawns in fall with cool-season species like perennial ryegrass to extend its green color during winter.
For the first mow of the season, consider cutting your grass a bit shorter to eliminate old grass and debris. However, you shouldn’t cut off too much, or you could damage the grass. Make sure always to keep the grass height within the recommended guidelines. Feel free to raise your mowing height gradually as the season progresses.
Weed and feed products are not as effective as using each product individually. Pre-emergent herbicides are best applied around March 1 in North Florida, while fertilizer should wait until around April 15.
Do you want to spend your spring on yard work? This season is the perfect time to visit the beach before the summer tourists arrive. Leave lawn care to a Jacksonville professional, and they’ll ensure your lawn is prepped for its peak growing season.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.9077901430842608,"src":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/107df/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/293e9/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/f2cbb/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1789c/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/c26c2/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/67b76/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 320w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/8df11/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 500w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/98a65/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 800w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/1dd6e/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 960w,\n/static/b4e54db45b24701051a7d50f83661406/3cc96/Jacksonville-FL-Old-Ortega.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Jacksonville, FL","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Spring is when your North Florida lawn picks up speed. Set your Jacksonville lawn up for success with these spring lawn care tips."}}},{"node":{"id":"1f359187-f747-5fd5-ad32-f85011a0f525","slug":"summer-lawn-care-guide-tampa","path":"/lawn-care/fl/tampa/summer-lawn-care-guide-tampa/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Gorski lives with her family in Texas. She has a degree in Professional Studies and a minor in marketing. Her hobbies include reading, drawing, and writing.","name":"Danielle Gorski","id":"7c21f4d6-aa31-5681-9530-3d69932d07c4","path":"/author/danielle-gorski/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d4dbd5997a7fe91daa87a0bd0839baff?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"dc593a91-bb7f-5961-b8a5-96bfdf119898","name":"Tampa","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/tampa/"}],"date":"July 31st, 2019","excerpt":"Whether you care for yard grass yourself or hire a lawn service, it would be a mistake to neglect it, that is, unless you really want an invasion of weeds, thatch and insects.
\n","content":"\nFlorida isn’t called the Sunshine State for nothing, and the city of Tampa boasts an impressive average of 244 sunny days a year. With all that sun, Tampa has many days with no rain. High summer temperatures average 90 degrees Fahrenheit and the hot, humid conditions invite pests and diseases right to your lawn. With all that working against it, use this guide to summer lawn care in Tampa to give your lawn the extra TLC it needs during the summer season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe Tampa Bay area enjoys a mild climate year-round, as the coastal city has an average annual temperature of 73.1 degrees Fahrenheit. Tampa’s hottest months are May through September.
\n\n\n\nIn the summertime, your lawn needs more care and attention than in the winter months when it’s dormant. During the heat and humidity of summer, your lawn may wither and die if it doesn’t get proper care. It’s important that your grass gets sufficient mowing, watering, and fertilizing, since a thriving grass is better protected against pests and diseases.
\n\n\n\nAdditionally, Tampa is hurricane territory, and keeping a well-maintained yard can help with drainage during rough weather, making your yard safer and hurricane-resistant.
\n\n\n\n![\"lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Dont-Mow-too-much.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nThe general rule is that you should cut no more than one-third of the grass blade when mowing your yard. It is recommended that homeowners mow their lawns once every one to two weeks, depending on the grass type.
\n\n\n\nAs grass grows taller, its root growth improves, so it’s a good idea to raise the mowing height of your mower as your grass grows during the summer. If your lawn is brown after you mow it, it means you’ve cut your grass too short.
\n\n\n\nCutting your grass extra short may seem like a clever shortcut to mowing less frequently, but it won’t help your lawn’s health. When your lawn is cut too short, it is more prone to diseases and weed infestations. In the end, mowing the grass too short may increase the amount of work to keep it healthy.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height | Mowing Frequency |
| Bahiagrass | 3-4 inches | 1-2 times a week |
| Bermudagrass | 1-2 inches | Every 7-10 days |
| Buffalograss | 2-3 inches | Every 7-10 days |
| Centipedegrass | 1.5 to 2 inches | Mow weekly |
| St. Augustinegrass: Standard cultivar | 3-4 inches | Every 7-10 days |
| St. Augustinegrass: Dwarf cultivars | 2.5 to 3 inches | Every 7-10 days |
| Zoysiagrass | 1 to 2.5 inches | Mow weekly |
Before summer starts, have your lawnmower’s blades sharpened. This will ensure you get an even cut and avoid jagged, poorly cut grass. Sharpening mower blades helps your lawn stay healthier, as poorly cut grass is susceptible to diseases.
\n\n\n\nGrass that looks ragged, brown, or uneven after being freshly mowed is a sign of dull lawn mower blades. Usually dull mower blades make your cut grass look like it has been torn instead of neatly sliced.
\n\n\n\nTo sharpen your lawn mower’s blade, follow these steps:
\n\n\n\nIt’s good practice to inspect your lawnmower’s blades after every mow. Inspect them for wear, dents, cracks, or nicks.
\n\n\n\nLeaving a thin layer of grass clippings spread over the grass can increase your lawn’s health. Known as grasscycling, grass clippings left on your lawn decompose and feed nutrients back into your soil, acting like a kind of fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nJust make sure that you don’t get carried away. Too many clippings on the lawn is bad for your yard and can cause diseases, which is not an outcome you want.
\n\n\n\nGrass clippings should never be thicker than a couple of inches deep, otherwise they will create thatch. Thatch is formed from a collection of organic material such as dead grass, roots, stems, and leaves. Thatch deprives the ground underneath of oxygen and nutrients, resulting in an unhealthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nGrass clippings can also be used for compost or for mulch in your flower beds. Simply bag the grass clippings when you mow and then spread a layer of the clippings over your plant bed.
\n\n\n\n![\"Sprinkler](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Watering-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare
\n\n\n\nRegular watering encourages your lawn and landscaping to stay happy and healthy. Typically, a lawn in Tampa requires approximately 1 inch of water a week and should be mowed two to three times a week. Grass might need more water during droughts or particularly hot summers.
\n\n\n\nThe amount of watering your lawn needs depends on several factors:
\n\n\n\nBefore you plan a watering schedule, check local laws in case there are city watering restrictions on how long or at what times you can run your sprinkler system. The government may have water conservation measures in place, so it’s your responsibility to follow these regulations.
\n\n\n\nIt’s better to water deeply and less frequently than to give your lawn a quick, shallow sprinkle more often. Deep waterings help your grass grow deeper roots.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a drought-tolerant cultivar that can endure going without water for extended periods of time. However, all grass needs some water eventually, so bahiagrass should be watered with .5 to .75 inches of water at a time.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a great choice for a low-maintenance lawn because it is incredibly drought-tolerant and requires less watering than other types of warm-season grasses. Water bermudagrass twice a week for a total of 1.25 inches of water each week.
\n\n\n\nIf you have automatic pop-up sprinkler heads, a watering session should take about 15 minutes. For rotary sprinkler heads, watering should take about 35 minutes long to water.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss doesn’t require much water, so be careful to only water their buffalograss lawn when it needs it.
\n\n\n\nWater buffalograss twice a week for a total of 1 inch of water a week. Each zone should be watered for 15 minutes with pop-up sprinkler heads, and 30 minutes for rotary sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nAlthough centipedegrass isn’t the best for dealing with foot traffic, it doesn’t require much maintenance. Centipedegrass generally requires more water than other types of grass, usually needing about 1.25 inches of water per week.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should water centipedegrass twice a week in the morning before 9 a.m. Each zone should be watered for 15 minutes with pop-up sprinkler heads, and 35 minutes for rotary sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass needs 1 inch of water every week, split into two separate watering sessions. Each zone should be watered for 15 minutes with pop-up sprinkler heads, and 30 minutes for rotary sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass performs best in well-drained soil, so don’t overdo it with watering. Typically, Zoysiagrass needs 1 inch of water a week. Each zone should be watered for 15 minutes with pop-up sprinkler heads, and 30-minute sessions for rotary sprinkler heads.
\n\n\n\nFertilizing encourages healthy lawn growth. It’s best to use a slow-release fertilizer to keep your lawn fed over several weeks. Fertilizer feeds your lawn with nutrients, reduces the amount of weeds in your lawn, and increases the strength of plants.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass needs to be fertilized twice a year. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in April. No more than 0.7 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should ever be applied at a time..
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer growing season, bermudagrass needs a monthly application of 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nExpect to fertilize bermudagrass about 2 to 6 times from spring to fall, its peak growing season. Stop fertilizing once the season cools down and the grass goes dormant for winter.
\n\n\n\nJust like buffalograss doesn’t require much watering, it doesn’t require much fertilization either. Buffalograss is a hardy grass that can perform well without a lot of maintenance. A North American native, most homeowners don’t fertilize buffalograss at all.
\n\n\n\nApply 1 pound of nitrogen-based fertilizer per 1,000 square feet once in June and again in September. Over the year, your lawn should get a grand total of 1-2 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is another type of grass that requires regular fertilization. Each year, a total of 2 to 5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be applied to your lawn. Each application should amount to 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen for 1,000 square feet of lawn.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass doesn’t need much nitrogen, and likewise doesn’t require a lot of fertilization over the year. Each year, zoysiagrass needs a total sum of about 1-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Weed](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Control-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nIn Tampa, you want to spray pre-emergent herbicides on your lawn as early as February, before spring even arrives. Pre-emergent herbicides are chemicals you spray on your yard before weeds ever even have a chance to grow. If you missed that time frame, don’t sweat it. Weeds can be removed after they have sprouted up in your yard.
\n\n\n\nTo eliminate weeds, remove them by hand or use chemical solutions such as post-emergent herbicides. Post-emergent herbicides are the type of herbicide that you spray on visible weeds that are already established in your yard.
\n\n\n\nSome of the most common weeds in Tampa include:
\n\n\n\nChickweed: Chickweed has bright green oval-shaped leaves and tiny white flowers. The low-growing weed is an invasive plant. It is best to remove chickweed with herbicides or by hand removal.
\n\n\n\nDandelions: Dandelions are characterized by sunny yellow flowers that transform into a white puffball of seeds. Each flower is supported by a long, hollow stem with jagged leaves growing at the base of the stem. It’s best to remove dandelions with post-emergent herbicides or by hand removal.
\n\n\n\nGoosegrass: Goosegrass forms a tangled web of grass blades and stems growing horizontally outward from a pale white center. Routine lawn maintenance and herbicides are a homeowner’s best defense against goosegrass.
\n\n\n\nOne of the best ways to prevent pests from invading your grass is good lawn maintenance. That way your lawn will stay healthy and capable of resisting pests. Unhealthy lawns suffering from drought or overwatering are susceptible to pest infestations.
\n\n\n\nHere is a chart listing which pests are typically attracted to which type of warm-season lawn grass in Tampa:
\n\n\n\n| Types of Grass | Common Pests |
| Bahiagrass | Bahiagrass billbugsFall armywormsMole cricketsNematodes |
| Bermudagrass | Army wormsBillbugsMole cricketsSod webwormsWhite grubs |
| Buffalograss | Chinch bugsMealybugsMitesShort-tailed cricketsWebwormsWhite grubs |
| Centipedegrass | Ground pearlsGrubsLawn caterpillarsMole cricketsNematodesSod webworms |
| St. Augustinegrass | Army wormsChinch bugsCutwormsGrubsMole cricketsNematodesWebworms |
| Zoysiagrass | BillbugsChinch bugsMites Mole cricketsSod webwormsWhite grubs |
![\"Treat](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Treat-Diseases.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nBefore summer hits, do a lawn inspection to check your lawn for signs of disease. Keep an eye out for diseases that are common in the Tampa Bay area such as gray leaf spot or root rot. Typically, good lawn care is the best way to prevent diseases from taking over your lawn, so it’s good practice to stay on top of taking care of your yard.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is a common malady that haunts bahiagrass. The best way to combat dollar spot is good lawn maintenance. A proper amount of fertilization should help bahiagrass remain strong and healthy enough to resist intruding diseases.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass has an impressive resistance to diseases, but some diseases that might afflict bermudagrass include:
\n\n\n\nOne of the best ways to prevent pests from invading your grass is good lawn maintenance. Spraying insecticides on infected areas is a good way to get rid of lawn pest infestations.
\n\n\n\nTo protect bermudagrass from disease, apply pre-emergent herbicides during the spring when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nA hardy, tough grass, buffalograss has a high level of tolerance against diseases. However, even the most disease-resistant grass isn’t completely immune to all diseases. If your lawn is suffering from a disease, use broad-spectrum repellent-free pesticides to treat the affected areas of your buffalograss lawn.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is an easy target for fungal diseases. One good way to prevent fungal problems is to avoid allowing water to sit on your lawn overnight. Centipedegrass decline or iron chlorosis are other maladies that might affect your centipedegrass lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow and water your lawn 24 hours before insecticide application. Treat affected areas with a broad-spectrum non-repellent insecticide that contains carbaryl or pyrethroid. Preventative yard treatments should be applied in May before the summer heat really kicks in. After the first application, a second follow-up application should be applied around June.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass may suffer from lawn diseases like gray leaf spot, large patch, or take-all root. Indoor-outdoor fungicides or plant disinfectants can be used to treat fungal diseases in your St. Augustinegrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass has an impressive resistance to diseases, but there are a few possible diseases you should keep an eye out for:
\n\n\n\nFungal diseases are the most common ailment for zoysiagrass. To decrease the chances of a fungal disease becoming a problem in your yard, use fungicides on your lawn as a preventative measure.
\n\n\n\nAvoid watering your lawn in the afternoon, in the heat of the day. Also never water your lawn when temperatures have reached 95 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter.
The best time of day for watering the lawn is between 4 a.m. and 8 a.m.
Don’t fertilize your lawn in hot weather or during a drought. When your lawn is stressed from the heat, fertilizing it could end up doing more harm than good. Only fertilize your lawn while it is still growing; if your lawn has gone dormant from the heat, don’t fertilize it.
Longer grass blades shade the soil at their roots, which protects moisture from evaporating. As a result, longer grass retains moisture longer and doesn’t need to be watered as frequently.
During the heat of summer you want to go cool off at the beach or in your backyard pool, not spend the day maintaining your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to deal with the hassle of lawn maintenance yourself, Wikilawn can help you find a Tampa lawn care pro today so you can focus on enjoying all Tampa has to offer.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo by: Pxfuel
\n","title":"Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Tampa, FL","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/1789c/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/107df/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg 320w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/293e9/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg 500w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/f2cbb/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg 800w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/1789c/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg 960w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/c26c2/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/1dd6e/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/67b76/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp 320w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/8df11/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp 500w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/98a65/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp 800w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/1dd6e/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp 960w,\n/static/5487c020453c9944fbf82a9306aed303/3cc96/Lawn-care-in-Tampa.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Summer Lawn Care in Tampa, FL | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Treat your lawn with a little extra TLC if you want it to survive the hot Tampa summer. Mow, water, fertilize, control weeds, and treat pests and diseases."}}},{"node":{"id":"01725c17-83b1-5edc-b262-9d63ea36a680","slug":"worst-weeds-tampa","path":"/lawn-care/fl/tampa/worst-weeds-tampa/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Gorski lives with her family in Texas. She has a degree in Professional Studies and a minor in marketing. Her hobbies include reading, drawing, and writing.","name":"Danielle Gorski","id":"7c21f4d6-aa31-5681-9530-3d69932d07c4","path":"/author/danielle-gorski/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d4dbd5997a7fe91daa87a0bd0839baff?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"dc593a91-bb7f-5961-b8a5-96bfdf119898","name":"Tampa","count":8,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/tampa/"}],"date":"July 31st, 2019","excerpt":"The same gorgeous weather that attracts so many to Florida also attracts weeds. This year, get ready to strike back. These are some of the worst weeds in Tampa and how to get rid of them.
\n","content":"\nMost weeds need warm weather to survive, which makes the Tampa Bay area the perfect habitat for weeds, since Florida’s humidity and warm temperatures create ideal conditions for invasive plants. If you’re tired of weeds overtaking your lawn and ready to get rid of them once and for all, here is a guide to the 7 worst weeds in Tampa and how to get rid of them.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nNo one likes an uninvited guest, and that is exactly what weeds are: an unwanted guest. Not only do weeds ruin the uniform aesthetic beauty of your grass lawn, they threaten the health of your grass, as well.
\n\n\n\nWeeds cause several lawn issues:
\n\n\n\nAside from that, weeds are usually a sign that something is wrong with your yard, such as overwatering or unhealthy grass.
\n\n\n\nThere are two methods for removing weeds from your Tampa lawn: pulling weeds up by hand or using chemical treatments. Which method works best for your yard depends on the type of weeds you have as well as the size of the weed infestation plaguing your yard.
\n\n\n\n![\"Gloves,](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Weed-Control.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ruth Hartnup from Vancouver, Canada / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you pull weeds by hand, there is weed-removal equipment you can use to help in the process, such as a garden trowel, a hoe, or a screwdriver. The sooner a weed is removed, the easier it is to pull it up before it has a fully developed root system and takes root in the ground.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the entire weed, including all its roots, tubers, and bulbs. If pieces of the weed are left behind, the weed may grow right back.
\n\n\n\nFor tap roots, try using a screwdriver or dandelion fork to uproot the entire root system.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Praxis Eco Pest Control / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSometimes a weed infestation may be too severe to remove by hand. In that case, you might be better off using chemical weed killer treatments to eradicate your weed infestation instead.
\n\n\n\n![\"Broadleaf](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Broadleaf-Plantain.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Simon / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWith a knack for thriving in compacted and soggy soils, broadleaf plantain forms a rosette of broad leaves that can grow up to 6 inches long. Broadleaf plantain is an edible perennial with medicinal properties that can soothe digestive problems, minor burns, or wounds. The weed produces flowers that grow in vertical stalks.
\n\n\n\nIt’s a hardy weed with a tap root system that can endure high levels of foot traffic and grow in sidewalk cracks or other tight spots. Broadleaf plantain needs full or partial sun in order to keep growing. From spring to fall, the weed produces white flowers. The plant is pollinated by wind.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-12
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Loves cool, moist soil most; works in clay or loamy soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal, post-emergent or pre-emergent herbicide
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-17.jpg\")
Photo Credit: OllgaP / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSmall, daisy-like flowers surrounded by oval green leaves growing in your yard may be a sign of common chickweed infesting your lawn. Chickweed grows low to the ground, ducking under lawnmower blades.
\n\n\n\nA winter annual, common chickweed is an invasive species that thrives in areas that are moist, cool, and shady. Although the flowers may be pretty, chickweed is an invasive spreader, and a single chickweed plant can produce more than 800 seeds.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to get rid of common chickweed is to use herbicides or uproot them by hand. Remember that chickweed has a fibrous root system, so don’t leave traces of the weed behind, otherwise it might grow back.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Herb
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Areas that are moist, cool, and shady
\n\n\n\nDanger: Although common chickweed is edible, in some cases it might cause an upset stomach if consumed in large quantities
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal, pre-emergent herbicides, good lawn maintenance
\n\n\n\n![\"Crabgrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Large-crabgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFlat, bright green grass blades shooting out from a central root and tapering to a sharp point are a trademark feature of crabgrass. Crabgrass is a warm-season grass that loves Tampa weather. Its seeds germinate in early spring and summer, and crabgrass tends to pop up wherever there is patchy grass or bare plots of soil.
\n\n\n\nCrabgrass reproduces rapidly. If left alone too long, you risk the weed spreading seeds all over your lawn. The best treatment for crabgrass is herbicides. Also avoid cutting your grass too low, otherwise it may result in inviting crabgrass to invade your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Annual grass
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Dry, disturbed soil where the grass is sparse and there are dirt patches for crabgrass to grow in
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides, hand removal, routine lawn maintenance
\n\n\n\n![\"Dandelion](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/dandelion-flowers-in-lawn-Mike-Mozart-cc20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Mike Mozart / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOne common weed that can be seen across North America is the dandelion. This flowering weed is known for maturing into the white puffballs of seeds you blow on to make a wish, but blow on one of these and you might find yourself getting a weed you hadn’t wished for.
\n\n\n\nDandelions blossom in a cheery bright yellow flower of spiky petals stuck on top of a tall, hollow stem. They have jagged dark green leaves. Dandelions are an edible plant that usually sprout up in late spring and summer.
\n\n\n\nDandelions are difficult to remove by hand because they have deep tap roots that delve 6-18 inches deep. Post-emergent herbicides can remove dandelions. Keeping your grass dense and healthy with routine lawn maintenance is the best preventative measure against dandelions.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf perennial
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 3-10
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Tolerates most soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None; dandelions are edible
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Post-emergent herbicide, hand removal
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollarweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dollarweed-also-called-floating-pennywort-water-pennywort-Indian-pennywort-marsh-penny-thick-leaved-pennywort.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dariusz Kowalczyk / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf it looks like a bunch of tiny lily pads infesting your grass, you are dealing with dollarweed. Commonly known as pennywort, dollarweed is a warm-season perennial that thrives in the summer. It is most common in warm states, particularly Florida and Texas.
\n\n\n\nDollarweed derives its name from its round green leaves with scalloped edges, which are shaped like a silver dollar. It grows low to the ground and produces little white flowers in July and August.
\n\n\n\nThis water lover has an affinity for moist soils. If you have dollarweed in your yard, it’s a sign you have poor drainage or are overwatering your lawn. To prevent dollarweed from infiltrating your yard:
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Perennial broadleaf
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 4a-10a
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Moist soil; tolerates sandy, loamy, clay, acidic, or neutral soil
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal, pre-emergent or post-emergent pesticides, proper irrigation
\n\n\n\n![\"Flordia](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Flordia-Pusley.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dinesh Valke / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFlorida pusley grows in dense patches, making it a challenge to remove by hand. Pusley blooms with snow-white flowers that turn purple as they mature. Their oval-shaped leaves taper to a sharp point at the end. Both stem and leaves are hairy, and all the foliage branches out from a single stem.
\n\n\n\nFlorida pusley is a fast-spreading plant that needs to be dealt with quickly to prevent it from overtaking your lawn. It loves lurking in thin areas among warm-season grasses, the types of grasses most commonly found in Tampa yards.
\n\n\n\nDrought-resistant and capable of withstanding sub-freezing temperatures, pusley is a durable weed. The summer annual has a shallow tap root system. Florida pusley usually grows in large groups, so the sheer quantity of them makes them difficult and tedious to remove by hand.
\n\n\n\nRoutine lawn maintenance such as regular mowing, watering, and aeration are good practices to keep Florida pusley away. Just be careful not to mow your lawn too short, otherwise it will decrease the lawn’s health and make it more susceptible to a pusley infestation. A large number of Florida pusley weeds in your yard may be an indication of a nematode problem.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Broadleaf annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 9
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Sandy soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Hand removal, routine lawn maintenance
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrowing in a haphazard mess of tangly leaves, goosegrass is a low-growing grass-like plant with stems and leaves radiating outward from a pale center, growing more vertically then horizontally. Some homeowners might recognize goosegrass by its other names, wiregrass or crowfootgrass.
\n\n\n\nGrowing in warm regions across the United States, fast-spreading goosegrass can grow up to 12 inches tall if left unattended. Unfortunately, goosegrass thrives in compacted soil and endures high levels of foot traffic, which makes it a tenacious weed capable of withstanding wear and tear.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners can use herbicides to prevent or kill goosegrass. Routine lawn maintenance and aeration helps prevent goosegrass from appearing in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlant type: Summer annual
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zone: 8-11
\n\n\n\nHabitat: Compact, wet soils
\n\n\n\nDanger: None
\n\n\n\nRemoval method: Pre- or post-emergent herbicides
\n\n\n\nFor weed management, the University of Florida recommends spraying pre-emergent herbicides around Feb. 1 in South Florida and Feb. 15 in Central Florida. Homeowners may want to spray earlier than that if temperatures start reaching 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Post-emergent herbicides can be sprayed on any visible weed, although the younger a weed is, the easier it is to control.
Frequent mowing helps eliminate weeds during the growing season as long as the lawn is mowed to the appropriate height and the grass isn’t cut too short. Cutting your grass too short invites weeds to your yard.
Mowing damages weeds and cuts off the flowering parts that produce seeds and spread more weeds across your lawn. Don’t forget to bag your grass clippings so that weed seeds don’t spread around your yard.
Yes, vinegar can get rid of weeds. However, vinegar is not as effective as weed-killing chemicals, as vinegar only kills the top part of a weed, not its root. Vinegar may be a natural solution for a few weeds, but it won’t be effective against large infestations.
Weeds are an irritating nuisance but a problem that can be dealt with, especially if homeowners react swiftly and get rid of weeds as soon as possible. Don’t forget that prevention is the best strategy to stopping weed growth in your lawn. Keep up with routine lawn maintenance and with spraying pre-emergent chemicals to prevent the seeds of invasive plants from germinating.
\n\n\n\nIf weeds are overrunning your yard, don’t stress. Call a pro instead. Wikilawn can help you find a local lawn care company to get rid of those pesky plants for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Hampton Terrace Historic District / Ebyabe / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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