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Traditional lawns are part of the American dream — an ocean of green covering nearly 2% of our nation’s area. But at what cost? Americans view the hassle of mowing, fertilizing, irrigation, and pest control our lawns demand as the price we pay for flawless turfgrass. The net effect is a bit grim. Cristina Milesi, […]
\n","content":"\nTraditional lawns are part of the American dream — an ocean of green covering nearly 2% of our nation’s area. But at what cost? Americans view the hassle of mowing, fertilizing, irrigation, and pest control our lawns demand as the price we pay for flawless turfgrass. The net effect is a bit grim.
\n\n\n\nCristina Milesi, a NASA researcher who studies lawn area, says, “I estimate there are three times more acres of lawns in the U.S. than irrigated corn.” Her figures reveal turfgrass is the largest crop in America. “Each family may have only a small lawn,” she explains, “but once you add them all up, they have a big impact.”
\n\n\n\nGrass is needy. It needs a mower to manage its length and an edger to tidy its margins. It thrives in full sun and struggles in shady areas. It hungers for fertilizer and thirsts for water. In short, maintaining a grass lawn means spending a lot of time and money on lawn care.
\n\n\n\nThere are lawn alternatives that are low-maintenance and need less water than a traditional lawn. Here’s a selection of lawn replacements that can save you time and make your yard more eco-friendly.
\n\n\n\nTurfgrass isn’t all bad: It absorbs carbon dioxide and helps prevent erosion. But the non-native varieties used in the traditional lawn take large volumes of water and fertilizer. Native grasses thrive on poor soil, are drought-tolerant, and don’t mind partial shade. The best part? They require little maintenance.
\n\n\n\nThe most common native is buffalo grass (pictured above), a bunch-type grass that once dominated the Plains. Others include bluestem, blue grama and switchgrass. Contact your local county extension agent to see what the most common varieties or blends do best in your area.
\n\n\n\nIf your goal is to reduce lawn maintenance, consider a product like No-Mow-Grass. There are two blends sold commercially under the No-Mow brand. One is a fescue mix for Northern areas where it freezes, and the other is a buffalo grass mix for hot, dry Southern climes. Despite the name, No-Mow-Grass needs mowing once a year in late spring or fall. Like any turf grass that sees heavy foot traffic, No-Mow lawns benefit from a core aeration every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nNot all grass alternatives are green. Using mulch, gravel, or even artificial turf to cover large areas of the yard can be aesthetically pleasing and are obviously shade and drought tolerant as can be. The jury is still out on whether artificial grass is a good alternative to turfgrass. Mulch is a fine addition to garden and flower beds because it helps to control weeds, retains soil moisture, and breaks down over time, adding nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/QlUzeqrntDZ8N_UfSNMSnnSunjCk2zWaeLEju6OOX3xGIPgKHDk4cfVcuRJl0yRafKRgaV06H3XNxfOpBaQLSq4vYOmFq9Y_Moa9G6WpBF5OKfQ3ggWjzRvhJMxGPOlEfttDpQOn\")
Offering compact, thick green growth, Dutch white clover is a perfect lawn replacement. Its root system generates nitrogen, reducing the need for fertilizing. You can achieve a more drought-tolerant lawn that requires less mowing by encouraging the growth of existing white clover patches. A mixed turfgrass and clover lawn can take heavy foot traffic better than a solid clover lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe bottom line? There’s no reason to support a needy front lawn when so many shade-loving lawn replacements exist. Find your groove, make your changes, and pat yourself on the back for doing your part to make the world a little greener.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: “Buffalo grass” by CAJC: in the PNW is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
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\n","content":"\nProper lawn care is more of an art than a chore. Nowhere is that more evident than in lawn edging. Your neighbor’s perfect lawn and crisp edges might make you jealous, but with a few simple tools, a little patience, and a lot of practice, you can achieve the clean lines of perfect edging. Here are some DIY techniques professional landscapers use to give flower beds and walkways that manicured lawn look you envy.
\n\n\n\nString Trimmer: A quality power edger is an investment, so do your research and don’t skimp on this purchase. Gas trimmers are heavy but ideal for large yards, while electric trimmers are lighter and more eco-friendly. A straight shaft will give you a longer reach and better ability to cut curves than a curved shaft.
\n\n\n\nManual Edging Tool: This tool looks a little bit like a shovel but has a flat, half-moon edger blade. For small yards or an aversion to power tools, this tool is the answer.
\n\n\n\nManual Rotary Edger: This one looks like a stick with a spiky wheel at its end. The spikes are rotating blades that shear off grass in a line. Used to manually edge grass at the edge of sidewalks or other hardscape surfaces. Good for small lawns with thin-bladed grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nHand Shears: For the finishing touches, trimming grass in hard-to-mow spots.
\n\n\n\nGarden Hose or Rope: Use to mark out the edge if you are making new garden beds and need a guide.
\n\n\n\nA Plank of Wood: You’ll only need this if you are using a manual edger to do the job.
\n\n\n\nThere are only a few ways to go about edging a lawn: using a power edger or weed eater, using a manual edging tool, or a combination of both. String trimmers sometimes come with edger attachments that can make short work of overgrown grass spilling into walkways and flower beds. These power tools can make the job easier. They can also make a big mess of an edge in no time if you’re not skilled at using them. Here are some tips for both methods.
\n\n\n\nPower edging is more hardcore than manual edging and requires a little more caution. Follow these steps for a safe, successful experience:
\n\n\n\nMowing with a lawn mower is always the first step in edging. If you are edging in a straight line, you can use a board as a guide. Before you begin, make sure the blade is sharp. If it isn’t, grab a file and go to work.
\n\n\n\nWith your sharp tool in hand, lay your board along the outside of the straight edge you want to cut. Stand on top of the board with one foot to secure it, and then drive the half-moon edger a couple of inches into the turf, using the edge of the board as a guide. If you’re edging against pavers or a sidewalk, you may come up against the edge, cutting a wedge-shaped bit of turf and earth as you go. Rock the edging blade back and forth and then scoop out the grass and dirt you’ve cut away, depositing them out out of the way to be collected later.
\n\n\n\nKeep a consistent angle by using the board edge as a guide, and make sure the blade stays nice and sharp. Susan Harris of Behnke Nursery recommends edging garden beds to avoid high-maintenance mowing around pavers and stone borders. “It’s called a Victorian Trench,” she says. “It does what edging needs to do — holds back the lawn from the garden and the garden from the lawn — without being an eyesore in the garden.” If you’re manually edging along a curved edge, you’ll want to overlap your cuts and double your depth, cutting to a maximum of 6 inches. When you’re finished with flower bed edges, backfill the trench you’ve dug with mulch for a clean, weed-resistant edge.
\n\n\n\nWhile it may seem like a lot of work, edging, like aerating and fertilizing should be a part of your lawn care routine. It gives your yard a tidy, professionally managed look and feel, and instantly increases your curb appeal.
\n","title":"How to Edge a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/107df/jack-edging.jpg 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/293e9/jack-edging.jpg 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/f2cbb/jack-edging.jpg 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1789c/jack-edging.jpg 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/356ef/jack-edging.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/67b76/jack-edging.webp 320w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/8df11/jack-edging.webp 500w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/98a65/jack-edging.webp 800w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/1dd6e/jack-edging.webp 960w,\n/static/cd8f28f8891294bf820abc65435ec04c/93f70/jack-edging.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Edge a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"f608fbe5-2120-5d01-a50c-a9820f45fa6e","slug":"difference-between-dead-and-dormant-grass","path":"/blog/home-and-garden/difference-between-dead-and-dormant-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jill Ramone is a landscaper who specializes in designing sustainable yards for busy homeowners. She prides herself on using eco-friendly products to control weeds and pests.","name":"Jill Ramone","id":"4c71091e-0a16-561f-8bdf-528214955c18","path":"/author/jillramone/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0caf6c31bc9563a294dd509633a793c6?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"84a346a7-9ce4-5d70-a95f-abcea3779ced","name":"Pests and Diseases","count":10,"path":"/category/pests-and-diseases/"}],"date":"October 9th, 2019","excerpt":"Grass can go kaput any time of year. The hot, dry conditions of summer can leave grass brown and unappealing. Winter snow mold and thatch buildup can leave your grass with dead spots. But is it really dead? Or just dormant? Before taking any action, it’s worth your time to determine if you have a […]
\n","content":"\nGrass can go kaput any time of year. The hot, dry conditions of summer can leave grass brown and unappealing. Winter snow mold and thatch buildup can leave your grass with dead spots. But is it really dead? Or just dormant?
\n\n\n\nBefore taking any action, it’s worth your time to determine if you have a dead lawn or just one that’s taking a nap. You don’t want to rip up a living lawn. Nor do you want to waste time mowing, watering, fertilizing, and trying to revive grass that isn’t coming back.
\n\n\n\nDead grass and dormant grass look much the same. It can be tough to tell the difference, but here’s what the experts say about discerning dead from dormant.
\n\n\n\nDeath is final. But dormancy, while it can look similar, is your lawn’s natural reaction to stress. Even warm-season grasses may turn brown due to the stress of summer’s hot, dry conditions.
\n\n\n\nIf less than half your lawn is dead or you can see surviving green shoots among the brown, crunchy blades of grass, it’s worth a try to save it. It will be less costly than re-sodding the entire lawn. Aerate the lawn. Power aerators work best. Rent one if you don’t own one. Raking the yard will help remove much of the dead grass. Be sure to take up thatch and other debris. Add new grass seed where needed and fertilize and water.
\n\n\n\nIf the entire lawn is dead, there’s no way to save it. It’s time to start over by re-seeding or re-sodding the entire area.
\n\n\n\nDormancy is a lawn’s reaction to heat and a lack of water. The plant gives all its resources to the roots, rather than the leaves. While brown grass may not look very appealing, dormancy is normal and usually lasts around four weeks. As the season’s change and weather conditions become more ideal for grass, your healthy lawn should return. Still, there are some things you can do to push it along a bit.
\n\n\n\nStay away from weed killers and herbicides during dormancy. It can damage already stressed lawns, and it may turn out insects weren’t the problem after all. Kelley Klopp of the Utah State Extension office says, “It is often difficult to diagnose insect problems when the grass is dormant. Be certain you are dealing with an insect problem before using insecticides, and always read and follow label directions.”
\n\n\n\n![\"Watering](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Andw9lRYwcV2ira3fBZXtJbm0tik_FO1QDPhsTv36DbNUSEpQ8J3EOf6TygqImw1exrMUgvfHpHPH5_7qseCijSk4J0Cv2psjB1jEMRWalCOjdiTAx1Q8oKuPuueIeeaUoGrqmHW\")
You can change the design of your yard to help your lawn make it through a drought. Reduce the setting on your mower blades and keep the grass a bit longer. Reduce slopes, if possible, so water doesn’t run downhill and off the grass. Put a greater distance between trees and shrubs and prune regularly, keeping shade to a minimum. And add good topsoil, if necessary.
\n\n\n\nAlso, consider the climate where you live and choose an appropriate turfgrass. Cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue, thrive in temperatures between 68 and 77 degrees. Building a lawn from these varieties in a hot, dry climate can send them into dormancy early. It can also cause the grass to die. They fare much better in northern parts of the country.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses work well in temperatures of 80 to 95 degrees, as they’re more drought-tolerant. They include Bermuda grass, Buffalo grass, and Zoysia grass, one of the better turfgrasses for hot climates. These lawns are usually started from sod, as they are more challenging to grow from grass seed than cool-season types.
\n\n\n\nBefore you ask “Why is my lawn dying?” make sure it’s not just taking a nap. With a little TLC (tender lawn care,) you’ll have a green lawn again before you know it.
If you have ever watched your dog excessively sneeze, scratch, and lick its paws, you’ve wondered what’s going on. You may find the two of you have something in common. As you blow your runny nose and rub your watery eyes, cursing the outdoors, your four-legged buddy may be suffering right alongside you. Dogs can […]
\n","content":"\nIf you have ever watched your dog excessively sneeze, scratch, and lick its paws, you’ve wondered what’s going on. You may find the two of you have something in common.
\n\n\n\nAs you blow your runny nose and rub your watery eyes, cursing the outdoors, your four-legged buddy may be suffering right alongside you. Dogs can get seasonal allergies, too.
\n\n\n\nThe culprit may be right under your dog’s paws. Grass allergies are the second-most common canine allergy (right after flea sensitivity).
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/XCXPM8-SERDg3bdXvTmKDN6GJK6NTgMpLHw0MIBdfEBm39PnQ1ueU2TjBPW4O5jB_sIbiOcRPDX6B31W-WxAAwg0AIIm_K_5pLUTlbP8l4tHycCaixiDNywa4OqjWlaDwkApw5c9\")
Dogs suffering from endless itchiness may scratch until they harm themselves. Anytime a dog with no sign of flea bites or known food allergies displays signs of excessive itching skin, dog allergies may be the culprit.
\n\n\n\nUnlike human allergy symptoms, dogs’ allergic reactions are primarily topical — on the skin. Common symptoms of grass allergies include irritated skin, either in isolated patches or spread all over a dog’s body. Watch for redness, hot spots, and bare patches from constant scratching, licking, and biting.
\n\n\n\nOne of the most challenging aspects of grass allergies in dogs is that they can show up out of the blue, even if you don’t have a yard. Some dogs are more susceptible to grass allergies than others. Bulldogs, German shepherds, Irish terriers, pugs, retrievers, and setters are all at higher risk than other breeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/SFeDQchITWvBSGfyKHfuJzs2B9pdxUJisbP-J5XzdBObT1B6oo6F619t9_9Ph7vpT25FFqEk5DrWQhUKWdTOkS8KnaTEdti0ivjzymhI-9K8LWio2SWl4ZLJ5DJlhTQNNPLK8DdY\")
A dog’s allergies to grass can manifest as mild allergic responses such as skin irritation to full-blown condition vets call canine atopic dermatitis (more commonly, allergic dermatitis or canine atopy). Atopy shows up in hair loss and skin infections from incessant scratching. The bottom line? When your dog’s symptoms reach this level, it’s time for a trip to the doggy dermatologist.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no need to panic about the grass you see your dog eating. Grass allergies have nothing to do with the grass underfoot, but rather the seasonal pollen released by the seedheads of unmown grass left to grow to maturity. Of course, there are other pollen-borne environmental allergies that can affect dogs. If you see the symptoms, have your dog tested.
\n\n\n\nPollen is almost invisible as it travels in the air, sometimes over great distances. This is why your dog can suffer, even if you don’t have a yard at home. Grass pollen affects dogs that inhale it into their lungs. It can also create contact allergies when it touches your dog’s skin. This is why it is important to bathe him or her often and wipe down your dog’s legs and paws each time they come in from outside.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/XXGTvKtIDgzs-Nfo3gee15Yb2WdXhTPm1OZ2mYRpjUwp_A-jk1-lH6DMif1VnE7pXMqQVZemYd1_XchAxATgxOPpI7tqKhLNksNDsobwlV8C8dI-tjXXxL8RdW3FdwM4MMFId84z\")
Visit a veterinarian if you suspect your dog suffers from a grass allergy. But be warned that getting a conclusive diagnosis of a specific allergen can be difficult. Most vets will recommend an eight- to 12-week elimination diet to rule out food allergies. By the time you’re done, the allergy season may be winding down. Allergy testing includes intradermal skin testing or blood testing. Some vets prefer to offer treatment first to see if it helps clear up the symptoms.
\n\n\n\nYou can help by paying close attention to and keeping track of your dog’s allergy symptoms. It’s important to note when the symptoms started, and when they subsided. Let your vet know if your furry family member displayed any secondary symptoms such as a runny nose, sneezing, coughing, or snoring.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/DZW--zdGe5UJTstbCQpjaeCeM4W5ki8Hj61BekJ5wn3DKNwLaVcEeXax2PmzJiDJc-qhG0PPw7nTqXO6bloOcjjCQTvF_RL6d6wXECoYo1qRSVI9ymXopdDKq5zLgeKK4Z0N_4n_\")
Clinical treatment for a dog with grass allergies usually starts with antihistamines and large doses of omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 fatty acids found in fish oil have an anti-inflammatory effect, and antihistamines ease itching. In severe cases, your vet may recommend a steroid shot, such as Apoquel. While steroids can cause side effects such as increased ear infections, Apoquel is considered safe and effective.
\n\n\n\nAccording to Dr. Nicole Eckholm, a veterinary dermatologist at Pet Emergency and Specialty Center of Marin in San Rafael, Calif., “Seasonal allergies cannot be cured, but they can be successfully managed in most cases.” She recommends allergy shots, known as immunotherapy, as the first line of defense. Up to 80% of dogs respond favorably to allergy shots.
\n\n\n\nUnlike other allergies, it’s almost impossible to avoid exposure to grass pollen. If your dog has a grass allergy, take the time to treat it and use preventive measures to limit contact. A side benefit: You’ll have a reason to enjoy rainy days. Heavy rain clears the air so your pooch and romp outside without reservation.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Tony Alter, CC 2.0
\n","title":"Diagnosing, Treating Grass Allergies in Dogs","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4479638009049773,"src":"/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/1789c/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/107df/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg 320w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/293e9/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg 500w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/f2cbb/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg 800w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/1789c/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg 960w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/356ef/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/1dd6e/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/67b76/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp 320w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/8df11/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp 500w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/98a65/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp 800w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/1dd6e/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp 960w,\n/static/5b7bd4d7f2a06a3f887cc38a3f60ab0f/93f70/rsz_dog-grimace-tony-alter-cc20.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Diagnosing, Treating Grass Allergies in Dogs | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"955df50b-3a49-5c55-b019-eb27187a6285","slug":"keep-outdoor-faucets-freezing","path":"/blog/home-and-garden/keep-outdoor-faucets-freezing/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Frank Naper is a nature enthusiast who loves to travel and explore new cities, taking nature photographs along the way.","name":"Frank Naper","id":"548facf1-0faf-5729-a658-167972066913","path":"/author/frank-naper/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/905ec21d5a8e70f5f8486364c08aa6b2?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"6fc58ffa-eaae-56a2-a670-d6f84e2bb962","name":"Cold Climate","count":4,"path":"/category/cold-climate/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"}],"date":"October 8th, 2019","excerpt":"Thirty-two degrees Fahrenheit is the magic temperature that puts your faucets at risk. If you and your pipes and faucets are not ready when the cold weather hits, you could end up paying the plumber a lot of money to fix the water damage. Here’s how to keep your outdoor faucets from freezing in the […]
\n","content":"\nThirty-two degrees Fahrenheit is the magic temperature that puts your faucets at risk. If you and your pipes and faucets are not ready when the cold weather hits, you could end up paying the plumber a lot of money to fix the water damage. Here’s how to keep your outdoor faucets from freezing in the winter.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/O1TWH61XpDdiFBQGLmJDSGl_w5Ks3bz9YRiCiJF8YPnf14mneyiSWMI3PlrEYMBR0fLh-OAAypzKxPacHs0EU-w34mHZfjc3wMqDD7D97FgQD-yFVhIUuRKlTQHlW83saCzSMsQq\")
First, let’s go back to middle school science class to understand what happens to your faucet when water freezes. Not only do freezing temperatures make the metal in your faucet more brittle, but it also changes the water too. Scientists at the International Association for the Properties of Water and Steam are the expert on what happens to water in different conditions. They explain that as water begins to cool, like most liquids, it shrinks. But when the temperature drops below freezing, that changes. “When liquid water is cooled, it contracts like one would expect until a temperature of approximately 4 degrees Celsius is reached. After that, it expands slightly until it reaches the freezing point, and then when it freezes, it expands by approximately 9%,” says the IAPWS. It’s like your water pressure on steroids. That 9% expansion is bad news for your outside faucet, and that’s why winterizing is necessary.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ud3jrOn9iFhnvA1pTOKAeQWyQL3bJlEovDdA1R9wR7-felw7mu_7vxwlT3tXQCDQkzudZMWPrg0sz3UlX-wZ83l_gUINWpONkSQHNxccY_9rxQapuN1IXlOUfh9luqRPwoWpQU69\")
There are two to-do lists here.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a cold part of the country, such as New England or the Upper Midwest, you’ll want to follow both lists.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a warmer part of the country, like Texas or Florida, you’ll need to follow only the second list because your exterior faucet will only be at risk for days, or at most, weeks, during the cold months.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re in Miami or Honolulu, you can go back to the pool and stop reading.
\n\n\n\nPeople in warmer areas probably need access to your faucet and water supply sooner than folks who live in the deep freeze. But be careful, many cities and counties have watering restrictions in place year-round).
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/3467jMMZnZLxCBy-KWgF5YBnuPJHYNLo3ssQKYN_5rheq2NrV7Z1fQ_2YzVG9VfnusaJRzkLGLP-4voVwdV9f_3vb5wdVF5FkaKjDP06l2nfCMXbzBKOMyde3nKpswRj39UsDwJp\")
If you do it correctly, you save yourself the headache of a cracked faucet or a burst pipe.
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your outdoor faucet covered, think about your pipes as well. Homes in colder climates are pretty well frost-proofed for all but the most extreme cold. Builders often place pipes inside of homes. But if you live in a warmer climate where builders aren’t as concerned about deep freezes, or you can see pipes outside the walls of your home, you’ll want to winterize those pipes and spouts as well. The same cold temperatures that can crack your faucets can damage your pipes. You can pick up pipe sleeves and other accessories a home improvement store at the same time you get the faucet covers.
\n\n\n\nYou should see the individual shutoff valves for each line leading to a faucet. If you don’t have individual shutoff valves, consider installing a hose bib, or sillcock. A frost-free sillcock runs inside the house where it’s warmer and prevents the water from freezing and causing damage.
\n\n\n\nWhatever you do, DON’T use a hairdryer for a quick thaw! If ice is filling the pipes, the freeze damage is already done. A quick thaw will cause the pipes to burst and that’s when you’ll have water damage throughout your house.
\n\n\n\nIt doesn’t matter what part of the country you’re in when it comes to outside faucets. Most homes have at least one faucet on an exterior wall, and the physical properties of water, metal, and frigid temperatures are universal — and a good reason to cover up this winter!
\n","title":"How to Keep Outdoor Faucets From Freezing","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/1789c/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg","srcSet":"/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/107df/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg 320w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/293e9/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg 500w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/f2cbb/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg 800w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/1789c/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg 960w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/4fb49/frozen-pipe-pixabay.jpg 1920w","srcWebp":"/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/1dd6e/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/67b76/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp 320w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/8df11/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp 500w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/98a65/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp 800w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/1dd6e/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp 960w,\n/static/992b059f35c6c62dc33b3845f408e12d/62477/frozen-pipe-pixabay.webp 1920w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Keep Outdoor Faucets From Freezing | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"0e9dd568-1135-5034-8d66-f87f05de5655","slug":"winter-flowers-plants-color-garden","path":"/flowers/winter-flowers-plants-color-garden/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"6fc58ffa-eaae-56a2-a670-d6f84e2bb962","name":"Cold Climate","count":4,"path":"/category/cold-climate/"},{"id":"8ba81c7f-e6d3-5016-8cd0-722b40ed3db9","name":"Creative Gardening","count":4,"path":"/category/creative-gardening/"},{"id":"8a05a295-4bd0-5eda-ba9e-1bb0d3dfa56d","name":"Flowers","count":4,"path":"/category/flowers/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"}],"date":"September 19th, 2019","excerpt":"A telltale chill in the air first thing in the morning signals that fall is quickly approaching, with winter not far behind. Truthfully, the idea of fall and winter makes me a little sad. With the change in seasons comes the annual winterizing of the garden that transforms my yard into a somewhat depressing, lackluster […]
\n","content":"\nA telltale chill in the air first thing in the morning signals that fall is quickly approaching, with winter not far behind. Truthfully, the idea of fall and winter makes me a little sad. With the change in seasons comes the annual winterizing of the garden that transforms my yard into a somewhat depressing, lackluster space. But there is a cure…plant flowers specifically for the winter that flourish in the cold!
\n\n\n\nGardeners in warmer, southern climates certainly have winter gardening easier than those of us who have chosen to withstand snow and freezing temps. They have a much wider selection of flowering plants suitable for their climates. Finding plants hardy enough to survive single-digit temperatures is more challenging, although not impossible. It just takes some research and a bit of creativity to design a flowering winter garden.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/crocuses-snow-peter-stenzel-flickr-cc20.jpg\")
To make it easier on you, I’ve gone ahead and done some of that research for you, listing some of the best plants for winter flowers and color in the cold weather of northern and transitional climates.
\n\n\n\nThe plants have been divided into two categories: those suitable for the northern hardiness growing zones 4, 5, and 6; and plants suitable for the transitional area of the country encompassing the hardiness growing zones 6, 7, and 8. Plants in the northern zones can be planted in the transitional zone. However, the plants listed under the transitional zone are not hardy enough to survive through the harsher northern winters.
\n\n\n\nIf you are unsure which hardiness zone you live in, you can use the USDA interactive map to determine it.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/flowering-kale-terren-in-va-flickr-cc20-1024x683.jpg\")
To get the most color during the winter, opt for some of the following plants. They add color to your garden through their decorative foliage, brightly-colored berries, and/or cold-tolerant flowers.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/camellia-bud-snow-ruth-hartnup-flickr-cc20.jpg\")
All of the plants mentioned for the frozen north can be planted for winter color if you live in the transition zone, as your winters are typically milder. These next three specimens are a little less hardy than the aforementioned plants but will tolerate your winter climate.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/snowdrop-329712-c-Tony-Atkin.jpg\")
While fall bulbs are a great way to add late-season winter color or early-season spring color to your yard, these bulbs usher in spring but won’t brighten your yard all winter.
\n\n\n\nSome annual plants can also hang around long enough to provide some winter color in your garden. Anyone who has planted a viola, a pansy, or snapdragon in their flowerbeds understands the tenacity of these plants. They are grown as annuals but will survive well into the cold months if left to grow and easily reseed to self-propagate for the following spring.
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