![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Watering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on […]
\n","content":"\nWatering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on the specific type.
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to find out how to get it right the first time.
\n\n\nWhen to water your lawn after applying weed and feed products is just as important as knowing how and when to apply weed and feed. Watering your grass too soon or too late can result in ineffective weed control and keep the fertilizer from creating a healthy lawn full of green grass.
\n\n\n\nFind out below when to water the lawn after applying the different types of weed and feed products.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent weed and feed products require water to help them penetrate the ground to be effective. You can water the grass 12 to 24 hours after application. For the best results, wait at least 24 hours before watering.
\n\n\n\nRain: The rain can help soak the herbicide into the soil. However, do not water the lawn if it rains after you apply weed and feed. Too much water can wash away the treatment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Fertilizer-spreader-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dean Clarke / Shutterstock / License
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should use post-emergent weed and feed products when it will be dry for a few days. These products are more sensitive to watering than their pre-emergent counterparts.
\n\n\n\nWait two days before watering the lawn to give the herbicide portion of the weed and feed time to absorb into the leaves of the weeds. If watered before 48 hours, the chemicals are washed away and will not work.
\n\n\n\nRain: Be sure to check the weather forecast and pick a time to apply weed and feed when it is going to be dry for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"fertilizer](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/fertilizer-for-the-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ronstik / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nFor granular fertilizer to work, it must be watered into the ground to release the lawn food that makes grass healthy and gives you a green lawn. If the fertilizer does not receive water, it can burn the grass if it sits on the lawn during the summer.
\n\n\n\nWait 12 to 24 hours before watering your lawn after applying granular pre-emergent weed and feed.
\n\n\n\nGrass treated with granular post-emergents should not be watered for at least 48 hours.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike granular products, liquid weed and feed does not require watering to work. And you do not have to wait as long to water the lawn. As a rule of thumb, waiting at least 24 hours is best. Too much watering can render the chemicals ineffective, so be mindful of this when you turn on the sprinklers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe chemicals in these two different types of weed and feed do not mix well. Therefore, homeowners are advised not to use both a pre-emergent and post-emergent at the same time. Here are some reasons why:
\n\n\n\n— They should be watered at different times after application.
— They should be applied at different times to work. Pre-emergents should be used in early spring. Post-emergents should be applied in the late spring.
Weed and feed is a combination of chemicals to treat weeds and fertilize the grass. The lawn fertilizer – the “feed” part – contains nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, important plant nutrients. The weed control portion can be either a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent Weed and Feed: Pre-emergent weed and feed products have herbicides to stop weed seeds from germinating. Pre-emergent products do not kill weeds. Depending on the ingredients, pre-emergent weed and feed inhibits cell division, prevents root growth, or stops enzyme growth to keep weeds from growing in the first place.
\n\n\n\nPost-Emergent Weed and Feed: Post-emergent two-in-one products have chemicals that kill weeds that are already growing. Contact-based products kill the plant parts they come into contact with, which is typically the parts above ground. Systemic post-emergents can be sprayed on any part of the weed and are absorbed into the plant, destroying its entire vascular system.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/e7e9bd22-a137-4af7-8800-a8c9ed2b9213.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Srinuan Hirunwat / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent vs. Post-Emergent: If you want to prevent weeds from growing, you’ll want a pre-emergent weed and feed. A post-emergent weed and feed is best in yards already held hostage by weeds.
\n\n\n\nLiquid vs. Granular: If you want to spot-treat weeds, liquid weed and feed products allow you to target individual weeds. Granular weed and feeds use a spreader to apply to a larger area. If you have a lot of weeds throughout your yard and want to apply chemicals quickly, a granular product may be best.
\n\n\n\nGrass Type: The type of grass is also a part of the decision of which weed and feed to select. Weed and feed labels list which types of grass they can be used on and at what stage. For example, pre-emergents should never be used on turfgrass recently seeded.
\n\n\n\nSome chemicals can be used on warm-season grasses but not on cool-season grasses and vice versa. Scotts Turf Builder is an example of a weed and feed that can be used on both.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are conveniently available and can be found at many home improvement brick-and-mortar locations and online stores like Amazon. However, weed and feed can be bad for your lawn for the following reasons:
\n\n\n\n— The best time to fertilize your lawn and the best time to treat weeds are often different.
— The chemicals in weed and feed are dangerous for children and pets.
— Weed products are often only needed in specific areas, while fertilizer is required all across the lawn.
— The harsh chemicals in weed and feed can leach into the surrounding environment.
— Weed and feed can sometimes harm plants other than weeds, including grass, shrubs, and trees.
How long should you wait before mowing the grass after using weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nGive the product time to work. Wait at least three days before you mow the grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen can you aerate your lawn after applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nYou should wait four weeks after applying weed and feed before aerating your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre liquid and granular weed and feed applied differently?
\n\n\n\nYes. Liquid weed and feed products are applied using a sprayer. Granular weed and feed chemicals are disbursed using a drop-type spreader, rotary spreader, or broadcast spreader.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nShould you water your grass before applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWatering the lawn before applying granular products is helpful. It can help the granules stick to the weeds. Be sure to follow the product’s instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is it safe for children and pets to come back on the lawn?
\n\n\n\nWait until after a heavy rainfall before allowing your loved ones back on the grass. You can also water your lawn for a few days in a row to be sure the residual from the chemicals is washed away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow soon can a lawn be reseeded after applying pre-emergent herbicide?
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should wait at least 8-10 weeks after applying weed control to reseed a lawn, or the herbicide could kill the grass seeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGetting the timing right on when to water your grass after applying weed and feed will determine if the chemicals work. It will also affect whether you end up with an attractive, healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with when to water the grass takes time and effort. You could end up spending more time and money correcting your mistake if you do not get it right.
\n\n\n\n
If you prefer to let someone else handle your lawn care chores and eliminate the risk of you messing up the timing, WikiLawn can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can help control weeds and maintain your grass for an appealing, healthy lawn.
Main Photo Credit: nenovbrothers / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nCats and dogs are curious by nature and will sniff or lick the chemicals you spray on your lawn. That’s why you need to know how to choose pet-safe weed killers.
\n\n\n\nRather than worry about an emergency trip to the vet, we’ll tell you how to select the safest weed killers for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nMany weed and grass killers contain toxic chemicals, which can cause serious harm to your pet. Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine found that using lawn chemicals, like glyphosate, increases a dog’s chance of developing cancer by up to 70%.
\n\n\n\nWhen looking for a pet-safe weed killer, pay close attention to the labels and check the active ingredients, certifications, types of weeds the product treats, and whether it’s a weed killer or weed preventer. Even if a product is labeled as “organic” or “pet-safe,” you still need to check what’s in it.
\n\n\n\nSome ingredients commonly found in animal-friendly herbicides include:
\n\n\n\nIf a product says it’s certified, do a little research and verify the organization or governing body that issued the certification. Some reputable organizations include Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) and California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), which are private, non-profit groups.
\n\n\n\nYou should avoid using any chemical weed killers containing:
\n\n\n\nSeveral companies like Get Sunday, Preen, Green Gobbler, and Dr. Kirchner specialize in effective pet-safe weed killers that won’t harm your grass or flowers.
\n\n\n\nYou can make several homemade weed killers and avoid exposing your dog or cat to harsh chemicals. Make sure your homemade weed killer doesn’t contain anything that could harm your pet. Safe options include:
\n\n\n\n1. What are the symptoms of weed killer poisoning in pets?
\n\n\n\nThe signs to watch for include:
\n\n\n\nIf your pet displays these symptoms and you suspect they were exposed to toxic chemicals, contact your vet immediately.
\n\n\n\n2. How long should I wait to let my dogs on the lawn after applying a weed killer?
\n\n\n\nWait at least 24 hours to make sure the product has completely dried before letting your kids, cats, and dogs play on it. Watering your lawn the next day will help the products dissipate.
\n\n\n\n3. What do I do after spraying weed killer to keep my pet safe?
\n\n\n\nWait a couple of days and pull up the pesky weeds. Make sure you get the root. If the roots are intact, the weeds can grow back. Wait at least two days after applying weed killer to mow.
\n\n\n\n4. Are there any downsides to pet-friendly weed killers?
\n\n\n\nYes. They don’t work as quickly, can be less effective on certain weeds, and vinegar-based solutions can increase the salt levels in your soil.
\n\n\n\n5. How do pet-safe weed killers work?
\n\n\n\nMost ingredients like vinegar, salt, and soap, dry out the plant, and corn gluten meal prevents seeds from sprouting.
Got a yard full of weeds but little time to get rid of them? We can help you find an eco-garden pro or lawn care professional who can handle the problem while you and your furry friend relax.
Main photo credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"How to Choose Pet-Safe Weed Killers","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5018773466833542,"src":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1789c/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/107df/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/293e9/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/f2cbb/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1789c/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/c26c2/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1dd6e/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/67b76/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/8df11/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/98a65/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1dd6e/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/3cc96/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Choose Pet-Safe Weed Killers | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"You can avoid an expensive trip to the vet if you know how to choose pet-safe weed killers for your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"108d3f5e-a2af-5ae6-8c3c-5bbf9ceeacda","slug":"how-to-choose-lawn-fertilizer","path":"/blog/how-to-choose-lawn-fertilizer/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Lawn fertilizers are one of the key ingredients for good soil because they supply essential nutrients that encourage the healthy development of your grass. But the challenging part is choosing the right lawn fertilizer that will work well for you. For this purpose, you must investigate your lawn’s nutrient requirements and decide which fertilizer will […]
\n","content":"\nLawn fertilizers are one of the key ingredients for good soil because they supply essential nutrients that encourage the healthy development of your grass. But the challenging part is choosing the right lawn fertilizer that will work well for you. For this purpose, you must investigate your lawn’s nutrient requirements and decide which fertilizer will fulfill your soil’s specific needs.
\n\n\n\nThis guide provides all the information you need to buy the best fertilizer for your lawn.
\n\n\nYou can give your grass the push it needs to thrive and become the envy of every passerby by choosing the right fertilizer. So, let’s dive into the world of lawn fertilizers and discover the most important aspects to consider while choosing.
\n\n\n\n![\"man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/man-reading-fertilizer-bag-in-store.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JackF / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhen exploring lawn fertilizers, you’ll frequently encounter a three-number combination on fertilizer labels known as the NPK ratio. NPK stands for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), which are three critical elements for the growth and health of your lawn. The NPK ratio on the fertilizer label represents the relative amounts of these nutrients in the product.
\n\n\n\nEach nutrient has a distinct purpose:
\n\n\n\nA fertilizer with a ratio of 10-5-5 comprises 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. The numbers are always in this order. Multiply the percentages by the amount of fertilizer contained in the package to know how many pounds of each nutrient are in that fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nFor example, consider a 50-pound bag of fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 15-4-10. The nutrient calculation will go as follows:
\n\n\n\n15% (0.15) nitrogen x 50 pounds of fertilizer = 7.5 pounds of nitrogen
\n\n\n\n4% (0.04) phosphorous x 50 pounds of fertilizer = 2 pounds of phosphorous
\n\n\n\n10% (0.10) potassium x 50 pounds of fertilizer = 5 pounds of potassium
\n\n\n\nUnderstanding the NPK ratio is similar to deciphering a secret code that tells you how much of each essential nutrient your grass will receive. Depending on your lawn’s requirements, you can select a fertilizer with the proper NPK ratio to correct deficiencies and provide the necessary nutrition.
\n\n\n\nTo know what NPK ratio goes best with your lawn, you must assess your soil and figure out which nutrients it’s lacking, as well as consider the requirements of your specific grass type.
\n\n\n\nDifferent lawns have different nutritional requirements. Finding out exactly which nutrients will benefit your grass the most is essential when choosing a lawn fertilizer. The main two factors to assess your lawn’s nutritional needs are:
\n\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nOnce you know what type of grass is growing in your yard, you can also figure out the best time of year to fertilize it with our guide, When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\nBased on the soil test results and your grass type, you can choose a fertilizer with the proper nutrient ratios to treat deficiencies and keep your soil healthy. For instance, if the test shows your soil lacks the recommended amount of nitrogen for healthy growth of your grass type, you’ll have to purchase a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThere are various options of lawn fertilizers available on the market, and you have to know what they all are before you can decide which is right for your lawn. Following are the primary different types of lawn fertilizers with their specifications to help you make the right decision.
\n\n\n\n![\"fertilizer](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/fertilizer-for-grass-growth-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: RossHelen / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGranular fertilizers are solid, pellet-like fertilizers that are popular among homeowners. They are available in various formulations, including slow-release and quick-release, which provide controlled or quick nutrient delivery. The steady release reduces the risk of overfeeding and helps your grass maintain a consistent growth rate.
\n\n\n\nGranular fertilizers are beneficial for more extensive areas because you can distribute them evenly across the entire lawn. The granules also pose less risk of fertilizer burn than liquid fertilizers, and the results last longer because the little specks take longer to break down into the soil. You can apply them using a fertilizer spreader.
\n\n\n\n![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nLiquid fertilizers are available in a concentrated liquid form and must be mixed with water before applying them to the lawn. Many of them come in ready-to-spray bottles that attach directly to the end of your garden hose, so you don’t have to dilute them yourself.
\n\n\n\nThese liquid fertilizers are quickly absorbed by the grass roots and foliage, providing a nutrient boost right away. Liquid fertilizers are beneficial for targeted applications or spot treatments, as they let you address specific regions needing extra care. You can also use them for foliar feeding, which involves spraying nutrients directly onto the leaves for rapid absorption.
\n\n\n\n![\"compost](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/compost-and-soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: melGreenFR from Pixabay / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers are made from natural materials like compost, manure, and plant waste. Because of their sustainable and eco-friendly nature, they have acquired favor among ecologically aware lawn enthusiasts.
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers improve your soil’s structure and moisture retention while nourishing it with nutrients. They slowly and steadily release nutrients over time, ensuring a steady supply to your lawn. This mild feeding method eliminates the possibility of nutrient imbalances or burns. Learn more about organic fertilizers by visiting our detailed guide to organic lawn fertilizers.
\n\n\n\n![\"liquid](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/liquid-fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Juan Moyano / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSynthetic fertilizers are chemically prepared and often have higher nutrient concentrations than organic ones. They are designed to give rapid fertilizer release, resulting in immediate benefits for your grass. Synthetic fertilizers are simple to use and provide exact control over nutrient levels, allowing you to adapt the fertilizer to the specific needs of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nHowever, using synthetic fertilizers with caution is critical, as excessive use can result in nutrient runoff, water contamination, and harm to vital soil organisms.
\n\n\n\nSlow-release fertilizers offer your lawn a gradual and consistent delivery of nutrients over time. They are typically made of coated granules or pellets that degrade slowly and release nutrients in stages as they break down.
\n\n\n\nThis controlled-release mechanism guarantees that your grass receives a consistent supply of nutrients, resulting in even growth and a lower chance of nutrient runoff. Slow-release fertilizers are a fantastic alternative for homeowners looking for ease and consistency. However, they will not have the same immediate effect as quick-release fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nQuick-release fertilizers provide your grass with a rapid burst of nutrients. They are designed to have an immediate impact and frequently contain higher nutritional concentrations. When you need quick results or want to address specific issues, such as greening up your lawn before an event or correcting nutrient shortages, quick-release fertilizers are a great choice.
\n\n\n\nHowever, overapplication can result in excessive growth, increased mowing frequency, and probable nutrient runoff. Quick-release fertilizers are also more likely to cause fertilizer burn.
\n\n\n\nThese fertilizers serve your lawn’s specific needs. Special lawn fertilizers include:
\n\n\n\nWhile not necessary, testing your soil can provide vital information about your soil’s nutritional content, pH levels, and any deficiencies. A soil test allows you to make more educated fertilizer decisions by addressing particular nutrient imbalances and avoiding over- or under-fertilization.
\n\n\n\nThe frequency of lawn fertilization depends on factors such as grass type, fertilizer type, climate, and general lawn health. Cool-season grasses benefit from fertilization in the early spring and fall, while warm-season grasses may require fertilization throughout the spring and summer.
\n\n\n\nFor more informed fertilizer applications, you can follow our lawn fertilizer schedule.
\n\n\n\nWhether you choose organic or synthetic fertilizers depends on your preferences and the environment around you. Organic fertilizers are a part of eco-friendly lawn care and have natural composition. In contrast, synthetic fertilizers comprise chemical formulation, providing precise nutrition control and immediate effects.
\n\n\n\nAbsolutely! Lawn clippings and compost are rich in nutrients and are excellent lawn food. After mowing, you can recycle nutrients into the soil by leaving grass clippings on the lawn. You can also use compost generated from yard waste, kitchen leftovers, and other organic materials to fertilize the lawn naturally. Just make sure the compost is well-aged and decomposed before using it.
\n\n\n\nA beautiful, healthy lawn that makes the rest of the neighborhood jealous takes more than just regular watering and mowing to create that ideal green paradise. Your lawn requires proper fertilization to thrive all year round. Choosing the right fertilizer for your lawn is essential for promoting healthy growth and maintaining a vibrant, lush appearance.
\n\n\n\nWith a variety of options available, selecting the best lawn fertilizer can be a daunting task. If you’d rather leave fertilization in the hands of a professional so you can enjoy your weekends without worrying about the lawn, connect with a local lawn care service through WikiLawn today.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: evgenyb / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Choose Lawn Fertilizer","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/1789c/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/107df/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/293e9/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/f2cbb/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/1789c/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/c26c2/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/1dd6e/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/67b76/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/8df11/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/98a65/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/1dd6e/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/4ec88ed585d8ab3b9691840ff7bc3897/3cc96/fertilizer-for-grass-and-soil-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Choose Lawn Fertilizer | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Which fertilizer is best for your lawn? Find your answer in this detailed guide on how to choose the right fertilizer for your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"26ba59cd-d2e7-522a-9533-8adbce1b8714","slug":"how-to-mow-a-lawn","path":"/blog/how-to-mow-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 11th, 2022","excerpt":"Knowing how to mow a lawn properly is crucial to the health of your grass. Cutting the grass might seem self-explanatory, but there are some rules and tricks that will ensure your yard is the envy of the neighborhood. We’ve broken down the process into six steps and included some tips for specific grass types. […]
\n","content":"\nKnowing how to mow a lawn properly is crucial to the health of your grass. Cutting the grass might seem self-explanatory, but there are some rules and tricks that will ensure your yard is the envy of the neighborhood. We’ve broken down the process into six steps and included some tips for specific grass types.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot all lawns are alike, and the way you mow your lawn depends on your grass type and the shape and size of your yard. But no matter what kind of lawn you have, following these six steps will keep your grass healthy and thriving:
\n\n\n\nThe time of day you mow is just as important as the season. Mid-morning and late afternoon are the best times to cut your grass.
\n\n\n\nAvoid mowing at daybreak because the morning dew forces the mower to work harder, and the moisture tears the grass blades. Mowing in the evening can be stressful on your grass as it won’t have time to recover.
\n\n\n\nDon’t mow after a rain shower either; wet grass will dull the lawn mower blades and can create ruts, uneven cuts, and clumping on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_800px-electric_lawn_mower_underside_img_5501-1.jpg\")
Sharp blades are essential for a clean and easy cut. Dull blades tear your grass, leading to brown grass and increased disease. Sharp blades that cleanly slice through your grass can help it regrow and repair faster.
\n\n\n\nYou can sharpen the blades on your own or hire a professional. If you decide to sharpen them on your own, always remove the mower’s spark plug before you remove and replace the mower blades.
\n\n\n\n![\"Sticks](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_img_1651-1-1024x768.jpg\")
Remove any sticks, garbage, or forgotten toys. Debris can get caught in the mower and fly out, injuring someone or damaging property. Mowing over sticks and other items will wear down your mower’s blades much faster.
\n\n\n\nDon’t get too close to landscaping elements or children’s play areas. Removing the grass from these locations can be done with an edger or string trimmer. This is much safer and worth the extra time.
\n\n\n\nCutting in the same pattern every time you mow compacts the soil and flattens the grass blades. This prevents the lawn from getting enough water and air, ultimately halting growth.
\n\n\n\nAlternating mowing patterns can be as simple as cutting east to west one week and north to south the next. This is also an opportunity to get creative and stripe your lawn or create a checkerboard pattern and make it look like an MLB playing field.
\n\n\n\nWant the look of a baseball field without all the work? We can help you find a lawn care professional to stripe and design patterns in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCheck your mower’s height before starting. Place your mower on a flat and firm surface and measure up from the ground to your mower blade. Set the lever to the desired height. You’ll find the desired height for each grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\nWhen your grass reaches 3-5 inches tall, you should cut it down incrementally instead of all at once. It’s best to cut your grass by a third of its height each time. This is known as the one-third rule.
\n\n\n\nFollowing the one-third rule helps keep your grass green, prevents soil compaction, and increases your lawn’s defense against pests and disease. Cutting to the right height also limits injury to the crown of the grass blades, where nutrients are stored.
\n\n\n\n![\"grass](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_grass_clippings-1024x444.jpg\")
Grass clippings are an excellent mulch for your lawn. The chopped grass blades act as a natural fertilizer and return nitrogen to the soil, so don’t bag them. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not contribute to lawn thatch.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses tend to sprout faster than warm-season grass types, but the mowing frequencies and heights vary according to the species.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses begin to grow as the weather hits 65° and thrive in temperatures between 80 and 95 degrees. These types of grasses grow fastest during the summer.
\n\n\n\nHere’s the recommended height for common warm-season grasses and how often they need mowing.
\n\n\n\n| Warm-Season Grass | Recommended Height | Recommended Mowing Frequency |
| Buffalograss | 2” – 3” | weekly |
| Dichondra | 1.5” – 2” | bi-weekly |
| Centipede Grass | 1” – 1.5” | every 5-7 days |
| Zoysia | 1.5 – 3” | every 7-10 days |
| Bermudagrass | 1” – 1.5” | every 5-7 days |
Cool-season grasses begin to grow as the weather reaches 60° and enjoy temperatures between 60° – 75°. This means the peak growing season is in spring and fall. When growth slows during the summer, you may only need to mow every other week.
\n\n\n\n| Cool-Season Grass | Recommended Height | Recommended Mowing Frequency |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5”- 2.5” | every 5-7 days |
| Tall Fescue | 2” – 3” | every 7-10 days |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 2.5“ – 3” | weekly |
| Red Fescue | 3 – 3.5“ | every 7-10 days |
Mowing Tips
\n\n\n\nIn addition to the six steps listed above, these mowing tips will help make sure you mow your lawn properly:
\n\n\n\nFinding the right lawnmower is one of the best ways to make lawn care easier. Consider the amount of money you want to spend, the size of your yard, and specific conveniences you’d like.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns should be mowed once a week, but some should be cut bi-weekly especially cool-season grasses that grow quickly during the spring and fall. Slower growing lawns should be cut every 7 to 10 days. To conserve water, mow less often during a dry spell.
\n\n\n\nThe one-third rule is the best gauge for how often to mow your grass. Frequency is a balance between the health of your grass and the look of your lawn. Grass is a sensitive plant, and mowing too often can diminish its ability to thrive.
\n\n\n\nIt’s tempting to mow new grass as soon as you see it sprout, but that can damage the lawn. Once the new grass hits an inch above the recommended mowing height, you can give your new lawn a cut.
\n\n\n\nIf you wait long enough, that first mow can help you grow a robust and healthy lawn with less risk for soil compaction.
\n\n\n\nNearly 7,000 people a year are injured by lawn mowers. These injuries can be avoided by adhering to basic safety rules, including:
\n\n\n\nIt really doesn’t matter. Most people find it best to mow first as it cleans up the majority of growth and makes it easier to see the edging.
\n\n\n\nSome people find it better to edge first, so you have a better view of the landscaping and other obstacles. This can make it easier to avoid them while mowing.
\n\n\n\nTypically you will overlap by a few inches, but it depends on the width of your mower’s deck. Overlap as much as needed to ensure you don’t miss any spots.
\n\n\n\nStart with a string trimmer or weed eater and remove about one-third of the growth. Repeat this process a few days later, and then use a mower to reach the desired height.
\n\n\n\n
Worried about safety, mowing correctly, or finding the right tools? We can help you find a lawn care professional to take care of all your mowing, edging, trimming, and mulching.
Main photo credit: Brenda Stuart | Wikilawn
\n","title":"How to Mow a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/1789c/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/107df/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/293e9/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/f2cbb/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/1789c/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/a2a79/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/1dd6e/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/67b76/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp 320w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/8df11/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp 500w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/98a65/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp 800w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/1dd6e/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp 960w,\n/static/bd24dfa2a6b06ab81e1556e9330b8b35/7aa54/rsz_jjack_mowing-1024x768-1.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Mow a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Mowing your grass correctly gives you a dense lawn that can fight off disease, weeds, and pests. We’ll show you how to mow a lawn to keep it healthy and green."}}},{"node":{"id":"63adb127-ed71-5bd0-8659-5015876f0e14","slug":"warm-season-grasses-guide","path":"/blog/warm-season-grasses-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"May 5th, 2023","excerpt":"Grass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy. In This Guide: What Are Warm-Season Grasses? Warm-season […]
\n","content":"\nGrass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in the southern U.S., where temperatures pretty consistently remain between 75 and 95 degrees. Warm-season grasses tend to go dormant when the temperature drops below 55 degrees.
\n\n\n\nThe most common types of warm-season grasses are:
\n\n\n\nCertain grass types similarly are common in other regions of the country.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses: These grasses typically thrive well in cooler climates of the northern United States and can withstand colder temperatures better than warm-season grasses. Some cool-season grasses also have strong drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses include fine fescues, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses: If you live in a band across the middle of the U.S., also known as the transition zone, you can choose from warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nRule of thumb: Though you have a wider range of grass choices in the transition zone, homeowners in the northern part tend to choose a cool-season grass, and if your home is in the southern part you likely would choose a warm-season grass.
\n\n\n\nif you aren’t sure what type of grass you have, contact your local Cooperative Extension office to help you learn the type of grass you have in your yard.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses include bahiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass. Here’s what you need to know about each of these warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Bahiagrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is very drought tolerant, disease tolerant, and pest-tolerant, and it’s low maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bahiagrass: Blades form in a Y shape as they grow.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass can handle a considerable amount of foot traffic but needs frequent mowing because of the seedheads that sprout from the grass. This tough flowering part of the grass can take a toll on mowers, so keep your blades sharp as possible when mowing this grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is sun loving, drought tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. The only downsides? This grass requires a lot of maintenance and treatments for some common lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bermudagrass: Your grass blades are light- or dark-colored and resemble the foot of a bird. Bermudagrass spreads by rhizomes and stolons, and you may see them creeping out of your yard toward the sidewalk.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a low-maintenance grass that is not prone to many lawn diseases. The only downside? Centipedegrass doesn’t handle foot traffic well.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have centipedegrass: This grass has a light green color and rounded blade tip. Centipedegrass spreads by stolons and has a dense look and coarse texture. Its dense, fast growth helps naturally prevent weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass looks gorgeous, stands up well to foot traffic, and is ideal in coastal areas because it handles the salty environment well. Downside? This grass will require moderate maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have St. Augustinegrass: This grass has a rich dark green color and coarse texture. St. Augustinegrass is spread by stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is very drought-tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. Additionally, it is generally a low-maintenance grass option but will require frequent mowing. Unfortunately, this grass is susceptible to lots of lawn diseases, but it does naturally resist weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have Zoysia: This grass has pointy, narrow blades. This grass can look very fine, or it can appear to be very coarse, depending on the cultivar.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a an easy-to-skim comparison of warm-season grasses, highlighting their foot traffic tolerance, drought-heat tolerance, maintenance, and disease susceptibility:
| Bahiagrass | Bermudagrass | Centipedegrass | St.Augustinegrass | Zoysiagrass | |
| Foot Traffic Tolerance | Moderate | High | Low | Moderate | High |
| Drought/Heat Tolerance | Very High | High | Moderate | Moderate | High |
| Maintenance | Low | High | Low | Moderate | Low to Moderate |
| Disease Susceptibility | Low Develops leaf spot | High Develops spring dead spot, dollar spot, large patch, leaf spot, rust | Moderate Develops large patch (aka brown patch) | High Develops gray leaf spot, take-all root rot, pythium root rot, brown patch, fairy ring | Moderate Develops brown patch, rust, dollar spot, powdery mildew, fairy ring, pythium blight |
To keep your warm-season grasses healthy throughout the year you’ll need to:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_4353671803_e0e987132b_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: sean hobson / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMowing your lawn is one of the most important lawn care and maintenance tasks. Consistent mowing keeps pests and lawn diseases at bay.
\n\n\n\nBefore mowing season starts, sharpen your lawn mower’s blades – and keep them sharp. Here’s why: Cutting your grass with dull blades can put stress on your grass, making your lawn susceptible to pests and disease.
\n\n\n\nMowing Frequency: Most warn-season grasses need to be mowed weekly, but check the details above for your particular grass type. Mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: As the growing season progresses, you will lower and raise your lawn mower’s blades to various heights. In summer, keep a higher grass height to avoid scalping and allow for more moisture to remain in your grass.
\n\n\n\nRule of Thumb: Don’t cut more than ⅓ of the height of your warm-season grass. Additionally, mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Keep your mower blades clean between cuttings, particularly if your grass has recently had a lawn disease. This will prevent the spread of disease to other parts of our grass.
\n\n\n\nIf this all seems like way too much work and you don’t want to push your lawn mower around your yard, hire a lawn care pro near you.
\n\n\n\n![\"Set](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Wikilawn-Sprinklers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEnsure that your warm-season grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water from a combination of rain and your sprinkler system. Note and abide by any local watering restrictions.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Ideally, water your grass before 8 a.m. This will minimize the growth of disease and water from evaporating during warmer parts of the day before it penetrates the soil. Avoid watering in temperatures below 40 degrees, as this could damage the grass.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you want your grass to have a strong root system, water for longer periods less frequently.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollarweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dollarweed-also-called-floating-pennywort-water-pennywort-Indian-pennywort-marsh-penny-thick-leaved-pennywort.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dariusz Kowalczyk / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds are another problem that could spring up in your lawn. How weeds damage your lawn: Weeds compete for nutrients that your grass needs.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying the weed (or weeds) in your yard is the starting point for treatment.
\n\n\n\nWith warm-season grasses, you may come across warm-season weeds, which include the following:
\n\n\n\nYou will need to treat these and other types of warm-season weeds with either a pre-emergent herbicide or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides attack weeds below ground before they germinate, blocking weeds from sprouting. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees and in fall when temperatures are around 70 degrees.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are a spray-and-shoot option to get rid of weeds you see on your lawn. Apply post-emergent herbicides in summer (or whenever dandelions take up residence in your yard).
\n\n\n\nYou can also get rid of weeds by pulling them up by hand. Wear garden gloves to keep your hands from getting dirty.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApply fertilizer to feed your grass by giving the soil the nutrients it needs to help grass grow and maintain a healthy green color.
\n\n\n\nSomething as simple as grass clippings can fertilize your grass, but you also may want to apply synthetic fertilizers for vibrant and healthy grass throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Every four to six weeks and even longer between fertilizing if you use slow-release fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: The most important thing is that you don’t over-fertilize your grass because this could kill it and leave patches throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAeration minimizes soil compaction and is another way to ensure your grass and soil get all the needed nutrients, particularly air. How to aerate your soil: You can use an aeration tool, aeration shoes, or a spike to poke holes in the ground, loosening compacted soil and letting in more air.
\n\n\n\nTiming: For warm-season grasses, it’s best to aerate your lawn in summer.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Aerate once a year for highly compacted soil types such as clay. However, if you have a sandy soil type, you may need to aerate your soil only every three years.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf a small layer of dead and living organic matter builds up at the base of your grass, close to the soil, that is called thatch. This can make it hard for your grass to breathe.
\n\n\n\nWhat is dethatching? You must clear away this debris with a dethatching tool such as a rake or a mechanical tool.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: You should dethatch your grass at least every five years or when thatch gets thicker than 1 inch.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your lawn is prone to thatching, check for thatch annually.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTwo of the most damaging threats to your grass are lawn pests and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nGrubs, for example, will feed on your grass until they become mature adults unless you treat them with pesticides. Grubs are the white larvae you see on your grass from beetles that may have infested your yard in the previous season.
\n\n\n\nYour grass also may be damaged by lawn diseases. Some lawn diseases attack the root, while others attack the leaf blades of your grass.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to identify the lawn disease before applying a fungicide to eliminate the problem. Otherwise, applying the wrong treatment could create even worse problems.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverseeding fills in patches and makes your lawn thicker and stronger. A patchy lawn can be the result of scalping or the result of some lawn disease or pest (armyworms, for example).
\n\n\n\nHow to overseed your lawn: It’s best to overseed warm-season grasses with a cool-season grass such as perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Overseed your warm-season grass in mid-October to mid-November. This ensures your overseeded grass remains moist. By the time spring comes around, your lawn’s patches should be slowly disappearing as overseeded areas start to bloom.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to pests, you may also start to see weeds more frequently in mid to late summer. As you see weeds, spot-treat them with a post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nYes. It is possible to plant warm-season grasses in cool regions. However, since they thrive in temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, they will go dormant and turn brown when it gets too cold for these grasses. Once it warms up again, they will turn green.
No. Both warm- and cool-season grasses are susceptible to lawn diseases. They just may succumb to lawn disease at different times of the year.
For example, cool-season grasses may develop lawn diseases in summer, while warm-season grasses develop lawn diseases in late all through early spring.
Yes. Warm-season grasses tend to be more drought-resistant than many of the cool-season grasses. Also, note that some warm-season grasses are more drought-resistant than others.
Not every homeowner has a green thumb when it comes to taking care of grass. There are many rules to abide by to keep your warm-season grass looking its best.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather not spend hours on yard work every week, turn over this task to a local lawn care pro who can regularly maintain your grass.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n","title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.444043321299639,"src":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/107df/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/293e9/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/f2cbb/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/c26c2/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/67b76/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/8df11/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/98a65/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/3cc96/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season grasses are best suited for the warmer climate across the southern U.S. We’ll show you how to care for Zoysia and other warm-season grasses."}}},{"node":{"id":"bd23c7a6-56c1-5baf-b0d7-e3b495e7ae45","slug":"pre-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/pre-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"There’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn weeds. Don’t worry. We get it, and we got you. This article explains how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weeds from ever sprouting in your lawn again.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe timing of pre-emergent herbicide application is everything. Pre-emergents will not help you with pesky dandelions or foxtails that seem to be stalking you if they are already sprouting in your lawn. You must apply pre-emergent herbicides before the times of year when weed seeds begin to germinate.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSpring pre-emergent herbicide applications prevent summer annual weeds, like goosegrass and crabgrass. Apply when the soil temperature is about 55 degrees or higher for 48 hours or longer.
\n\n\n\nThe month or time of the month you apply weed control will be determined by what part of the country you live in since climates and weather differ according to location. That’s why it’s better to sync your herbicide applications with the soil temperature rather than a specific date. You can find a soil thermometer online or at your local gardening supply store for less than $10.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApplying pre-emergent herbicide in the early fall prevents winter annual weeds, like common chickweed and annual bluegrass. Apply when the soil temperature falls to around 70 degrees for three days or more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse the product as instructed on the package, including following the proper measurement amounts per area covered. It is also important that you protect yourself from these toxic chemicals.
\n\n\n\nProtective gear to wear when applying herbicides:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re protected, you can apply pre-emergent herbicides in one of two ways, depending on whether the product you purchased is granular or liquid.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Professional](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Professional-Gardener-with-Lawn-and-Garden-Seed-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGranules are applied by hand or via a shaker bag or spreader. A spreader is best when covering a large area. A cup can be filled with granules and then shaken out from the cup onto the lawn, but this method can take a while.
\n\n\n\nWater the lawn after spreading granules so the herbicide can penetrate the soil, allowing the active ingredients to attack the weed seeds.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Preparing-Pest-Control-Spraying-Equipment.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiquid pre-emergents come in ready-to-use or concentrated forms. If the liquid is in concentrated form, it requires mixing with water, and a sprayer is used for application. Ready-to-use pre-emergents don’t need mixing and typically come in a spray bottle or sprayer.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve been doing your homework and researching weed control solutions, you have come across both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating. They do not kill weed seeds that have already germinated or actively growing weeds.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, post-emergent herbicides control weeds that have sprouted and are growing.
\n\n\n\nA few herbicides contain chemicals that perform as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. Products with Dithiopyr are examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe active ingredients in pre-emergents are triggered when watered, which allows the chemicals to penetrate the soil. The chemicals form a barricade on the top of the soil which stops seeds from germinating. Depending on the chemicals in the product, they may stop the roots from growing, prevent seed cell division, or inhibit growth enzymes.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s important to make sure you get the right type of pre-emergent herbicide for your specific weed problem. Otherwise, you might end up hurting your lawn, too, and not just the weeds. The two categories of pre-emergent herbicides are selective and nonselective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides control specific weeds without adversely affecting other plants. Most pre-emergent herbicides used for home lawns fall into this category.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNonselective herbicides kill all plants. Because of this, nonselective herbicides are used to spot-treat specific plants rather than being applied to the whole lawn or garden. Don’t apply nonselective herbicides around the same time you seed new grass, or they will prevent the grass from growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPre-emergents should only be used on turfgrass that has been established for at least one year. Grass can be damaged if pre-emergents are applied too soon after reseeding or overseeding the lawn.
\n\n\n\nSome cool-season grasses that can be injured by pre-emergent applications after the grass has been seeded are tall fescue and ryegrass. Warm-season grasses adversely affected are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nExamples of grasses that can be damaged by pre-emergent herbicides after sodding or sprigging are the warm-season grasses St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot all weed killers kill all weeds. So, knowing the type of weed that is growing is important. Make sure you are identifying the weed correctly. Some weed killers destroy broadleaf weeds like spurge, clover, and ragweed. Others are chemically formulated to control grassy weeds, like foxtail and barnyardgrass.
\n\n\n\nAlso, knowing your grass type is important. As previously explained, certain weed killers are recommended for use on certain types of grass seed, while some come with a warning to never be used on specific grass types.
\n\n\n\nSome products are weed killers and fertilizers in one. But homeowners should only fertilize plants and lawns when they are growing actively. Therefore, using a weed and feed product may not be a good idea. Homeowners should never use a two-in-one herbicide on warm-season turfgrasses like Zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of active ingredients in pre-emergent herbicides and what grass types or kinds of plants on which they can be used safely:
\n\n\n\nAtrazine:
\n\n\n\nBenefin:
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr:
\n\n\n\nIndaziflam:
\n\n\n\nProdiamine:
\n\n\n\nWait at least eight to 10 weeks after using weed killers to reseed your lawn, or the seeds can be killed by the weed control chemicals.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal can be used on henbit in early spring to inhibit seed germination. If the seeds have already germinated, applying the meal can cause the weed to grow. Apply corn gluten meal when it is going to be dry for at least two days; roots in moist soil can absorb nutrients that activate weed growth. Monthly reapplications may be necessary.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass that is not properly maintained can result in weed growth. Lawns need to be mowed at the correct heights, fertilized regularly, and watered at the proper frequency to grow thick enough to crowd out weeds. Thin or bare turfgrass can promote weed growth.
\n\n\n\nIn gardens, new weed seeds can be introduced by mowers used on grass that had weeds. However, most weeds in gardens are from seeds that developed in previous years in the garden. Weeds can also emerge when plants are spaced too far apart.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHere are some things you can do to manage weeds:
\n\n\n\nHere are some proactive weed management tips:
\n\n\n\nWhile dinitroanilines control some broadleaf weeds, they do not control perennials, like nutsedges, for example.
\n\n\n\nHerbicides can contain chemicals that both attract and harm pets. Animals can be adversely affected by eating plants treated with herbicides and by inhaling the toxins from treated plants. Some tips to keep pets safe are:
\n\n\n\nBeing one step ahead of weeds is the only way to prevent them. If you know when weed seeds are germinating, you can apply pre-emergent herbicide to keep them from ever sprouting in your lawn. And if you prevent weeds, you’ll never have to pull them.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes down to it, weed management can be a pain. You have to keep up with a regular schedule, and if you miss just one herbicide application, you could end up with a lawn full of weeds in no time. If you prefer to let someone else manage your lawn care, we can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can keep your lawn pristine and weed-free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Henfaes / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4388489208633093,"src":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/107df/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/293e9/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/f2cbb/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/c26c2/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/67b76/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/8df11/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/98a65/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/3cc96/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Find out how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides, including examples of which chemicals prevent which weeds and answers to FAQs."}}},{"node":{"id":"c8821141-6409-59b1-9d5a-5a8360c22227","slug":"how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil","path":"/blog/how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"March 11th, 2023","excerpt":"A great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider. In this article, we’ll cover: Why You Need to Test and Improve Your Soil […]
\n","content":"\nA great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPlant growth is impacted by the pH balance of the soil. Grass and plants can’t survive in soil that’s too acidic or has too much alkaline. The pH number ranges from 1 to 14. A level below 7 is considered acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. A measurement of 7 is neutral.
\n\n\n\nKnowing the pH of soil lets you decide what to plant and where. The results of a soil test will also indicate how you can improve plant quality. This includes adding fertilizers and other amendments.
\n\n\n\nYou can buy a soil test kit at any home improvement or lawn and garden store. Choose a kit based on what you want to learn about your soil. These kits will come with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
\n\n\n\nAt-home testing kits are accurate enough for the casual gardener and lawn enthusiast. If you’re looking for something more specific, you should consider a full nutrient analysis. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with the soil testing kit and perform the analysis.
\n\n\n\nThe testing process will vary slightly depending on the kit you purchase, but the general process will be the same.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your sample has lots of earthworms wiggling about, this means your soil already has a strong composition of organic matter.
\n\n\n\nA soil amendment is anything added to the soil to improve nutrients, water retention, pH levels, air intake, and absorption. The goal of mixing amendments into your soil is to improve the environment for healthy root growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of soil amendments:
\n\n\n\nWhile mulch can be used to improve soil properties, it is not considered an amendment since it sits atop the soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for amendments depending on what your soil test indicates. Cover crops and composted manure are great options, but not always necessary for home gardeners.
\n\n\n\nMost residential soils will benefit from one of the following common amendments:
\n\n\n\nSome gardens will require very specific adjustments and might require one of the following:
\n\n\n\nThere are three broad classifications of soil based on the rock particles it contains. Texture can be amended by adding organic matter such as compost or plant material.
\n\n\n\nGarden soil should be about 5% organic matter. Organic matter ensures the release of nitrogen is adequate to support your lawn and plants without additional fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nWhen should you add soil amendments?
\n\n\n\nAdd organic amendments in the fall, allowing earthworms to work it deeper into the ground by spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to amend in the spring, do so as soon as the soil is dry enough to work with.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is the first step to healthy and lower maintenance gardens.
\n\n\n\nWhat elements should I keep in mind when amending my soil?
\n\n\n\nFrequent testing will help you determine if your amendments are working. Once you get the soil where you want it, you only need to test every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nSamples should come from near the plant roots. This could be a specific garden bed or a tree’s root system. To assess the soil quality in your lawn, take samples from different areas based on conditions.
\n\n\n\nPhosphorus: Promotes root growth, plant maturity, and winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nPotassium: Disease resistance, drought tolerance, and plant strength.
\n\n\n\nCalcium: Improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
\n\n\n\nMagnesium: Improves plant growth and chlorophyll production.
\n\n\n\n
While testing the soil in your yard might not be an overwhelming task, amending it might. If you find yourself short on time, patience, or ideas, consider calling on a local lawn care professional. The pros know just what to do to keep your soil healthy and when to do it, allowing you to simply enjoy the outcome.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/107df/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/293e9/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/f2cbb/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/c26c2/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/67b76/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/8df11/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/98a65/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/3cc96/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Healthy soil produces healthy plants and lawns. We’ll show you how to test and improve your soil for a greener lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"240ef13d-10c0-55ef-a3ea-abcbbb9a9bc7","slug":"lawn-fertilizer-schedule","path":"/blog/lawn-fertilizer-schedule/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Fertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the […]
\n","content":"\nFertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the benefits of fertilization and enhance your grass’s growth.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide, we’ll walk you through developing the best fertilization schedule for your grass type’s specific needs. Let’s get started!
\n\n\n\nLearn about:
\n\n\n\nIllustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDifferent grass species have different development patterns, so you must customize your fertilization schedule accordingly. Always apply fertilizer during your grass’s active growth period and never when it’s dormant. Dormant grass cannot absorb nutrients, so any fertilizer you apply during dormancy goes straight to the weeds lurking in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses and warm-season grasses grow at different times of the year, so they require different fertilization schedules, which you will find below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, do best in regions with cold winters and mild summers. They typically grow in the northern third of the US and somewhat in the central portion of the country, known as the transition zone.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses benefit from a fertilization schedule that includes the following applications:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring, around late March and early April, is an ideal time to apply the first round of fertilizer as cool-season grasses emerge from winter dormancy. Choose a fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen for speedy green-up and healthy root development. Aim for a balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio to assist overall growth and stress tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSummer: Cool-season grasses can experience obstacles such as heat stress and restricted water supply during the hot summer months. To combat drought stress, adjust your watering plan and avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat. Consider using a light application of a slow-release or organic-based fertilizer with low nitrogen content in late summer, as the growth period might kick start. If your grass goes dormant and turns brown in summer, do not apply fertilizer until it greens up again.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As temperatures decrease in the early fall, cool-season grasses enter the period of their most vigorous growth. It is an ideal time for a proper round of fertilization. Use a higher potassium content fertilizer to boost root growth and improve winter hardiness and disease resistance. A balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio is still necessary to promote healthy growth during the growing season and prepare the grass for winter.
\n\n\n\nLate Fall: Apply a winterizing fertilizer developed specifically for cool-season grasses in late fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost in your area, around late October or early November. These fertilizers contain a higher potassium content, which helps to strengthen the grass’s cell walls and increase its resistance to harsh winter conditions. Winterizing fertilizers also aid in the early spring green-up of grass when it emerges from dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass prefer warmer temperatures and grow most actively in spring and summer. They begin to slow their growth in fall when the temperatures drop, and they enter winter dormancy earlier than cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer hot summers, warm-season grasses grow mostly in the South. They can also grow in the transition zone, but they typically struggle in any place with severe winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best times to apply lawn fertilizer for warm-season grasses are the following:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring is an excellent time for the first round of fertilization since warm-season grasses emerge from dormancy and begin their active growth phase. To stimulate vigorous growth, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Look for a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer that consistently supplies nutrients over time, assuring the grass’s continuous nourishment.
\n\n\n\nLate Spring/Early Summer: Warm-season grasses grow steadily throughout the summer and may require ample fertilizing to remain lush. However, it is important to be cautious when fertilizing during this time. High temperatures and drought can stress the grass, leaving it more vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To reduce the chance of damage throughout the hot summer, use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer around the end of May or the beginning of June when the heat isn’t too extreme yet.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As summer gives way to fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth. A round of fertilizer application is best done in the early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Use a fertilizer with a slightly greater potassium content to increase root growth and improve the grass’s winter hardiness. This application will aid in the recovery of the grass from any summer pressures and prepare it for the cooler months ahead.
\n\n\n\nDo not fertilize warm-season grass in late fall, as it is either preparing to enter winter dormancy or has already gone dormant.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the best lawn fertilizer practices for cool-season and warm-season grass types in our guide: When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe amount of fertilizer your grass needs can affect how many times you fertilize throughout the year. Each grass type has its own nutrient requirements, so it’s important to identify your grass type before trying to make a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nFind the proper amount of nitrogen fertilizer recommended for your grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Application Rate Per Year |
| Bermudagrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Zoysiagrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Centipedegrass | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Fine fescue | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Ryegrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
You should never apply more than 1 pound of nitrogen to your lawn at one time. So, if your grass type requires 2 pounds of nitrogen every year, you should spread the fertilizer across at least two applications and possibly more applications of less than 1 pound. If your grass type requires 4 pounds of nitrogen annually, you will need to spread it out across four applications of 1 pound each. Don’t fertilize your lawn more than four times a year.
\n\n\n\nBase the timing of these applications on the cool-season and warm-season lawn fertilization schedules above.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-19.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Galeanu Mihai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil testing is a valuable tool for optimizing your fertilizer schedule. When it comes to lawn fertilization, more than a one-size-fits-all strategy is needed. Soil testing enables you to identify nutrient deficits or excesses in your soil. It identifies the nutrients your lawn requires for its best growth, allowing you to fine-tune fertilizer selection and application.
\n\n\n\nTo perform a soil test, buy a DIY soil testing kit or send a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office for a more in-depth test.
\n\n\n\nThe soil test results provide essential information regarding your soil’s nutrient level. You’ll get a detailed report outlining the levels of primary nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, as well as secondary and micronutrients. The report also contains the pH level of your soil (ideally between 6.0 and 6.5), which is critical for nutrient availability at the grassroots.
\n\n\n\nBased on your soil test results, you can choose the right fertilizer for your grass, which will make your fertilization schedule even more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Close-up-of-Female-Gardeners-Hand-with-Iron-Bucket-of-Granular-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Valerii Honcharuk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelecting the right fertilizer for your lawn can significantly impact its overall health and look. There are a few crucial aspects to consider while choosing the right fertilizer, including:
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about these factors and how they affect your lawn, see our guide to choosing lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe type of fertilizer you select can impact your fertilization schedule. For instance, immediate-release fertilizers only remain in the soil for 4-6 weeks, so they will need to be applied more often for sustained results, while granular fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks and will require fewer applications throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is generally recommended that you water your lawn lightly after fertilizing. Watering aids in dissolving fertilizer granules, allowing nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the grassroots. However, be careful not to overwater, which might wash out nutrients or lead to runoff. Plan to fertilize when the weather forecast is clear of heavy rainfall for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilizing during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, is generally discouraged. Fertilizing during this time may result in nutrient runoff and waste. It can also encourage weeds to take over your yard while your grass is not growing. Not to mention, it’s a waste of your time, energy, and money.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers have longer-lasting effects on your soil by far. For one, they take longer to break down into the soil, which means nutrients are released gradually over time instead of all at once. The organic content in these fertilizers also improves the soil’s texture and overall health, whereas synthetic fertilizers can actually damage the soil and kill important microorganisms.
\n\n\n\nThe tradeoff is that organic fertilizers take longer to show visible results in your grass, while synthetic fertilizers can offer a quick green-up and boost of growth. So, you have to decide if you’re more concerned about the long-term or the short-term benefits.
\n\n\n\nSee our guide to organic lawn fertilizers to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCaring for your lawn means providing the appropriate nutrients at the right time. A well-planned fertilization schedule ensures your grass receives the nutrients it requires all year, supporting healthy growth and vivid greenery.
\n\n\n\nAre you tired of doing all this on your own? Don’t worry; we are here to help. Connect with a local lawn care pro through WikiLawn to help you establish a healthy, bright lawn that will make your neighbors envious.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5463917525773196,"src":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/107df/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/293e9/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/f2cbb/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/c26c2/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/67b76/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/8df11/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/98a65/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/3cc96/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is the right time to fertilize your lawn? Learn all you need to know from our lawn fertilizer schedule, including when and how much to fertilize."}}},{"node":{"id":"c3d2d0ef-0b52-5679-8531-cdce38189828","slug":"the-8-major-metro-areas-that-are-most-fired-up-about-burning-coal-to-keep-warm","path":"/blog/the-8-major-metro-areas-that-are-most-fired-up-about-burning-coal-to-keep-warm/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"May 13th, 2019","excerpt":"John Egan On chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth. Among the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating […]
\n","content":"\nJohn Egan
\n\n\n\nOn chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth.
\n\n\n\nAmong the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating fuel more than Pittsburgh, PA.
\n\n\n\nA WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shows 173 of every 100,000 occupied housing units in the Pittsburgh area rely on coal or coke for heating fuel. By comparison, 108 of every 100,000 occupied households across the country depend on coal or coke to generate heat.
\n\n\n\nLike Pittsburgh, six of the seven other metro areas on our list are in the Northeast, where coal historically has been more popular as a heating source than in other parts of the country.
\n\n\n\nCertainly, the total number of occupied U.S. households where you’d find a coal-burning stove is tiny — just one-tenth of 1 percent, or a little over 128,500 households. Of those households, an estimated 1,939 are in the Pittsburgh metro area, according to our analysis of data from the Census Bureau’s 2013-2017 American Community Survey. The annual survey takes the pulse of America in terms of demographic and housing characteristics.
\n\n\n\nAnyone who lives in or grew up in Pennsylvania undoubtedly knows why coal remains a source of heat for more than 1,900 households in the Pittsburgh area.
\n\n\n\nIn 2017, Pennsylvania ranked third among the country’s top coal-producing states, behind Wyoming and West Virginia, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA). That year, Pennsylvania mined 49.1 tons of coal, or 6 percent of the country’s total coal output.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, coal production in the U.S. has fallen off as utility companies have switched to natural gas, a cheaper source of energy, or to wind and solar power, which, unlike coal, are renewable sources of energy. Nationwide coal production slipped nearly 3 percent in 2018 from the previous year, according to EIA.
\n\n\n\nThe Keystone Stone, particularly the Pittsburgh area, enjoys a centuries-old relationship with coal. Mining of bituminous (or “soft”) coal in Pennsylvania dates back to the late 1700s. In Pennsylvania, bituminous coal first was mined in Mount Washington — aka “Coal Hill” — just across the Monongahela River from Pittsburgh, according to the state Department of Environmental Protection.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, industrial plants around the state, including steel factories in the Pittsburgh area, have consumed much of the coal mined in Pennsylvania.
\n\n\n\nBeginning with Pittsburgh, here’s our list of the 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Coal-Burning Stoves. (Or, put another way, the 8 Major Metro Areas Where Frosty the Snowman Should Be Afraid of Losing His Two Eyes Made Out of Coal.)
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/pittsburgh-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 1,118,610
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,939
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 173
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/hartford-ct-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 512,877
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 629
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 123
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/philly-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C672&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 2,469,188
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 2,637
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 107
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cleveland-oh-skyline.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 959,615
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,013
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 106
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/providence-ri-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 700,220
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 582
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 83
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/boston-ma-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 1,930,177
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,204
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 62
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/nyc-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 7,916,318
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 4,450
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 56
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Buffalo-NY-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C736&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 525,820
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 284
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 54
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
\n","title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg","srcSet":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/107df/burning-coals.jpg 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/293e9/burning-coals.jpg 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/f2cbb/burning-coals.jpg 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/a2a79/burning-coals.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/67b76/burning-coals.webp 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/8df11/burning-coals.webp 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/98a65/burning-coals.webp 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/7aa54/burning-coals.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"85163eb4-3d4e-55b7-a216-988dafb66f52","slug":"how-to-identify-grass-fungus","path":"/blog/how-to-identify-grass-fungus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2022","excerpt":"Is your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them. Contents: What is Grass Fungus? 10 Types of FungusDollar SpotGray Leaf SpotGray Snow MoldPink Snow MoldLeaf SpotNecrotic Ring SpotPowdery MildewRed ThreadBrown PatchSummer Patch […]
\n","content":"\nIs your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nA grass fungus is a microorganism that grows and thrives in the soil. It manifests itself as a fruiting body such as mushrooms or in the form of a disease such as summer patch.
Sometimes the fungus can lie dormant in cooler seasons and start to show itself in hot months, or vice versa. Grass fungus can attack the roots or leaves of your lawn, zapping it of nutrients and often changing its appearance.
\n\n\n\nSeveral of these fungi can result in a number of lawn diseases. Here are the ten most common types of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nThis fungus spreads throughout the yard through infected tools or grass clippings. It may even spread by shoes tracking through the grass. Dollar spot starts in early summer and reaches its peak in late summer. It thrives in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Bentgrass and Zoysia are grasses that are susceptible to this type of fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gray](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-07-29_at_113159_am-1024x504.jpg\")
Gray leaf spot creates an enormous amount of spores that invade grass through cut leaf tips. This fungus targets St. Augustinegrass but can also affect Bermudagrass, ryegrass, centipedegrass, and tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms
\n\n\n\nTreatment
\n\n\n\nGray snow mold is a fungus that grows in winter under snow in temperatures between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, spreading its threads into plant tissues. This disease tends to attack bluegrasses, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescues.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nSimilar to gray snow mold, this fungus attacks the grass leaves, forming a disease that looks like red or coral webs. Unlike gray snow mold, pink snow mold doesn’t require snow to thrive. Annual bluegrasses and bentgrasses are most susceptible to this type of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaf](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_manchas_foliares_-_hongos_sobre_hoja_de_rumex_sp-_leaf_spot_7494223286.jpg\")
Leaf spot develops in early spring and spreads in spring or late fall, attacking the grass crown and roots. This fungus attacks Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_img_2816-1024x768.jpg\")
Necrotic ring spot attacks the roots of grass, creating donut-shaped dead spots. It attacks fine fescue, annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and rough bluegrass.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nThis fungus forms in moist, cool climates when the ground has poor air circulation. It forms on the grass blades, particularly Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_31616759565_dc7c3259f9_c.jpg\")
You can identify red thread by the clusters of red or pink threads throughout your fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, bentgrasses, or bluegrasses. The fungus enters the grass through its blades, spreading to other areas, and is common in rainy seasons of spring and early summer.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch attacks the roots and spreads to the leaves and stems of grass. This fungus attacks fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and bluegrasses.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Summer](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14747617254_dd85aea258_c.jpg\")
Summer patch is a fungus that usually attacks Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, and annual bluegrasses. The fungus attacks the roots of the grass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent a grass fungus from invading your lawn with a few lawn maintenance tips.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a lawn fungus go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. The fungus will spread and get worse over time.
\n\n\n\n2. Are certain grass types more susceptible to lawn fungus than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. For example, Bermudagrass, bluegrasses, and Zoysiagrasses are vulnerable to various types of fungus. Planting a much more resistant species like creeping red fescue will help keep fungus at bay.
\n\n\n\n3. Will mowing the infected lawn spread the disease?
\n\n\n\nYes. The blades of your mower could spread the fungus throughout your yard. To minimize the spread of the pathogens to other parts of your yard via your lawn mower, clean and disinfect the mower blades before each mow.
\n\n\n\nNot sure how to treat the grass fungus invading your lawn? We’ll help you find a lawn care professional in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Flickr/ Kris Lourd/CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/107df/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/293e9/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/f2cbb/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/a2a79/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/67b76/Red-Thread-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/8df11/Red-Thread-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/98a65/Red-Thread-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/7aa54/Red-Thread-disease.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Is your lawn facing brown patch, snow mold, or fairy ring? We'll show you how to identify the types of grass fungus that has your lawn looking sickly."}}},{"node":{"id":"2baae674-4a45-56fc-869b-a30c15030ed9","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-carpenter-ants","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-carpenter-ants/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Caleb Leonard is a freelance writer and marketing professional. A graduate of the University of North Texas, his interests include gardening, podcasts, and studying Spanish.","name":"Caleb Leonard","id":"1c332919-8490-5383-95ec-6ae90855221c","path":"/author/caleb-leonard/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4ac26f4a5bb894df76f4af23dd100da4?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"}],"date":"November 22nd, 2022","excerpt":"Anytime you face a pest infestation, it’s a stressful situation. But when you have pests that can damage your property, that’s a whole new level of stress. Carpenter ants chew through wood in homes and yards across the country. Thankfully, we’ve got some advice on how to get rid of carpenter ants indoors and outdoors. […]
\n","content":"\nAnytime you face a pest infestation, it’s a stressful situation. But when you have pests that can damage your property, that’s a whole new level of stress. Carpenter ants chew through wood in homes and yards across the country. Thankfully, we’ve got some advice on how to get rid of carpenter ants indoors and outdoors.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nCarpenter ants (Camponotus) make their homes in trees and logs, easily chewing through wet wood to create their tunnels and nests. These ants come in different sizes and colors, but in North America, they mostly appear black or reddish brown.
\n\n\n\nCarpenter ants are typically between one-quarter inch and five-eighths of an inch in length, with elbowed antennae. Some carpenter ants may develop wings while the nest is swarming.
\n\n\n\nLike most ants, carpenter ants give each other directions to food and shelter by leaving behind a pheromone trail. It’s how they sneak into your kitchen or bathroom in vast numbers.
\n\n\n\nThankfully, we have some helpful tips for controlling carpenter ants in the home. Infestation sizes may vary, but following these steps in the suggested order mimics professional treatments and can save you the cost of hiring an exterminator.
\n\n\n\nThe first step to ending your carpenter ant problem is to locate the nest. Follow the ant trail or evidence of damage until you reach the nest.
\n\n\n\nSometimes these nests are difficult to find. Try thumping the wood where you suspect damage. If it sounds hollow, you’re in the right place. Thumping around the nest can excite the ants, and panicked ants may appear.
\n\n\n\nOnce you find the nest (or locate high ant activity) apply bait traps or bait gel nearby. Spread your bait around sinks, appliances, baseboards, and bathroom fixtures. The nest is usually near a source of water. Consider using a duster for a quick and even application of fine granular baits.
\n\n\n\nBaits eliminate ants by lacing their food with insecticide. When the ant takes the bait back to share it with the colony, that insecticide spreads amongst the other ants until it dethrones the queen.
\n\n\n\nNext, apply an aerosol foam to cracks, holes, and crevices. Insecticidal foams expand, making them the ideal choice for wall voids, cracks, and crevices.
\n\n\n\nAerosol foams like FiPro spread pesticides from ant to ant, infecting the entire colony. When ants come in contact with these foams, their nervous systems are affected, resulting in death.
\n\n\n\nYou can use insecticidal dust to pump pesticides into hard-to-reach places like behind sinks and inside hollow doors.
\n\n\n\nAnother option is to use diatomaceous earth (D.E.) to solve your carpenter ant problem. Just sprinkle this pesticide along the pheromone trail or near suspected entry points to your home.
\n\n\n\nDiatomaceous earth eradicates pests dehydrating their bodies. This dehydration occurs either by consumption or the proximity to D.E.
\n\n\n\nYou can use boric acid in the same manner. Boric acid takes longer to kill insects than D.E., but both are effective means of carpenter ant control. Diatomaceous earth can be used outdoors as well.
\n\n\n\nAre carpenter ants infesting the wood frame around your compost pile or chewing away at your wood deck? Similar to indoor infestations, you’ll need to find the nest and treat it with pesticides.
\n\n\n\nPerimeter treatments are advisable whether your infestation is indoors or outside. Use a non-repellent insecticide to spray wall voids, crevices, windows, eaves, and potential entry points. This will help ensure the outside infestation doesn’t migrate indoors.
\n\n\n\nSpray the insecticides in a sweeping motion 1 to 3 feet up the wall and 1 to 3 feet into the yard to create a strong barrier around your home.
\n\n\n\nAlways read and follow the instructions listed on the product label, as guidelines may vary from product to product.
\n\n\n\nRepellents are a helpful tool to rid your lawn of carpenter ants. Carpenter ants are sensitive to strong odors, and the odors will disrupt the pheromone trails they use to direct other ants.
\n\n\n\nScents like peppermint (oil), lemon, vinegar, and chili powder can keep carpenter ants away.
\n\n\n\nAdd your chosen repellant to a spray bottle and dilute it with water. Aim for a 1:1 ratio. Spray your natural repellent solution around any potential entrances to your home or in areas where you see carpenter ant activity.
\n\n\n\nJust like you would indoors, scout your yard for signs of carpenter ant activity and set up bait traps.
\n\n\n\nAnother way to rid your lawn of carpenter ants is with homemade bait. Start by mixing one-thirds sugar with two-thirds boric acid. Next, place your mixture in a small dish or bottle cap near ant trails or the nest.
\n\n\n\nBoric acid is widely available at grocery stores, pharmacies, and supercenters.
\n\n\n\nAphids and carpenter ants have a symbiotic relationship. The aphids create a food source for the ants (honeydew), and in return, the carpenter ants protect the aphids from predators. If your lawn is teeming with aphids, there’s likely a carpenter ant infestation nearby.
\n\n\n\nLuckily, aphids can be eradicated with pesticides, soapy water, neem oil, or petroleum-based horticultural oils. Once the aphid population is reduced, the ant colony will likely search for a new source of food elsewhere.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent pests is to remove their food source and tidy your home and yard.
\n\n\n\nA carpenter ant infestation can happen anywhere. These ants need damp wood to make a home and a consistent food source.
\n\n\n\nCommon causes of a carpenter ant infestation include:
\n\n\n\nA carpenter ant sighting in your home doesn’t necessarily mean you have an infestation. It could just be a worker ant scouting out a new location for a nest. However, if you see winged carpenter ants, that means a colony is swarming and might be trying to move into your area.
\n\n\n\nSigns of an infestation in your home include:
\n\n\n\nBoth termites and carpenter ants can damage wood, leaving evidence of frass (wood shavings). Despite looking so similar and causing similar damage, they require significantly different treatment, which is why proper identification is so important. Here are some helpful tips to tell them apart:
\n\n\n\n| Carpenter Ants | Termites |
| Carpenter ants are discrete in their nest building, often unbeknownst to homeowners. | Depending on the species, termites typically cause damage out in the open. Termites also construct mud tubes that are often visible outside of the nest. |
| Carpenter ant bodies are pinched at the neck and waist. | Termite bodies have a similar thickness throughout. |
| Carpenter ants have six long legs. | Termites have six short legs. |
| Carpenter ants have elbowed antennae. | Termites have straight antennae. |
| Carpenter ants have two pairs of wings with the front wings much larger than the back wings. The wings also have fewer veins than termite wings. | Termites have two pairs of wings of equal size with many veins. |
Carpenter ants likely entered your home through cracks and crevices. They can travel across tree limbs and wires and even chew through wood to enter your home.
\n\n\n\nMonitor points of entry such as any place wires enter your home. Check your baseboards and window sills, and keep shrubs and tree limbs away from your home.
\n\n\n\nThe good news is it can take years for carpenter ants to cause notable damage, unlike termites, whose damage becomes evident in a few months.
\n\n\n\nPest infestations can be overwhelming, so there’s no shame in hiring a professional exterminator. If your carpenter ant infestation is in a difficult-to-reach location, or pest control isn’t your forte, hire a pro for the job.
Pests like carpenter ants don’t like a manicured lawn. They prefer tall grass to hide from predators. Connect with a local lawn care professional who can keep your lawn tidy and ward off outdoor pests.
Main Photo Credit: Geoff Gallice / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Carpenter Ants","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5018773466833542,"src":"/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/1789c/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/107df/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg 320w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/293e9/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg 500w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/f2cbb/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg 800w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/1789c/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg 960w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/c26c2/rsz_carpenter-ants.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/1dd6e/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/67b76/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp 320w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/8df11/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp 500w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/98a65/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp 800w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/1dd6e/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp 960w,\n/static/7d6e5e63a3e98471f86ce25fb59adb29/3cc96/rsz_carpenter-ants.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Carpenter Ants | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Carpenter ants chew through wood, causing headaches for homeowners. Learn how to get rid of carpenter ants indoors and outdoors."}}},{"node":{"id":"d85de7c5-0eb0-57b5-97c4-327bb343fd1c","slug":"how-to-keep-water-from-pooling-in-yard","path":"/blog/how-to-keep-water-from-pooling-in-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 17th, 2022","excerpt":"Does your yard look more like a lake than a lawn? You could have some serious drainage issues. We’ll tell you what’s causing the problem and how to keep water from pooling in your yard. Contents: Why is Water Pooling in Your Yard? (And How to Fix It) How to Redirect Pooling Water FAQ About […]
\n","content":"\nDoes your yard look more like a lake than a lawn? You could have some serious drainage issues. We’ll tell you what’s causing the problem and how to keep water from pooling in your yard.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nTo stop water from pooling in your yard, you have to find the cause. Here are the most common causes of standing water and what you can do to correct them.
\n\n\n\nToo much water inhibits the growth of grassroots and suffocates your lawn. Even worse? Standing water can cause an imbalance in the soil and may lead to grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the way you water your lawn.
\n\n\n\nClogged gutters cause water to back up and overflow, sending large amounts of water onto your lawn all at once.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Clean out downspouts and gutters in the fall and spring to allow water to flow.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a layer of organic material that builds up around the base of your grass. Warm weather causes thick thatch to dry out and repel the water, so the ground can no longer absorb it.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Get rid of heavy thatch using a thatching rake, a power rake, or even a garden rake. Go a step further by aerating your lawn. This will break up the compacted soil and allow your lawn to absorb more water.
\n\n\n\nIf your land doesn’t slope properly, water may collect on your lawn faster than it can drain. Improper grading and poor drainage will make the low spots in your yard even worse with each rainfall.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Regrade your lawn so it slopes away from your house.
\n\n\n\nSoil composed of thick clay is less absorbent and causes drainage problems.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the makeup of your soil.
\n\n\n\nWater tables can rise when they collect more water than they’re able to drain away often due to heavy rains.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Work around the water table.
\n\n\n\nTry to pinpoint the issue causing water to pool in your yard. If you’re unsure what’s causing the excess water, we can help you find a landscaping pro near you to diagnose your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nAnother way to get rid of water pooling in your yard is to give it somewhere to go. You can do this by installing extra drainage. Hire a pro or build these DIY hardscaping features to improve your yard’s drainage and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nBefore you get started, call 811 and have the city mark out any potential underground utilities.
\n\n\n\nA French drain consists of perforated drain pipes buried underground. Stormwater flows into the pipes and out in a more suitable area. You’ll need to direct it toward a storm drain or an appropriate section of the landscape, like near a tree or a rain garden.
\n\n\n\nYou can build your own French drain or hire a professional. Check with your local municipality to see if they require a permit for this project.
\n\n\n\nA dry well is a lined hole in the earth that works as a catch basin. It temporarily holds collected water that will slowly seep back into the soil. Dry wells should be big enough to hold runoff without spilling over during average rainstorms.
\n\n\n\nDry wells range from low-cost hand-dug pits filled with rocks and permeable landscaping fabric to pricey perforated concrete or polyethylene tanks. Regardless of the design, you can conceal a dry well with turf for cover or an open grate for simple monitoring.
\n\n\n\nA dry creek bed is an appealing hardscaping feature that requires very little upkeep and is an efficient drainage solution. Once the dry creek bed is set up, you can add plants to the edges to improve its appearance and give the stone elements some balance.
\n\n\n\nA rain garden is nothing more than a planting space you install in a low part of your yard. A rain garden will direct gutter runoff into a lovely planting area. This acts as a natural filter and sponge to purify the water as it seeps into the surrounding soil.
\n\n\n\nWhen designing a rain garden, make sure the garden is at least 10 feet from any foundation and sloping away from your home.
\n\n\n\nInstalling a French drain or swale is the easiest way to channel runoff away from your driveway. A swale is a gravel-lined open trench with sloping sides.
\n\n\n\nSand, garden compost, leaf mold, and compost additions will loosen up soil that doesn’t absorb water very well. For hardpan soil, you’ll need a shovel to break it up.
\n\n\n\nYes. Rocks are great components of a yard’s drainage system since they do not compact or deteriorate over time and do not need ongoing maintenance.
\n\n\n\nDon’t ignore standing water in your yard. The longer you wait, the more it will cost to fix. We can help you find a lawn care professional to solve your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wikimedia | CC-BY-SA-4.0
\n","title":"How to Keep Water From Pooling in Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1789c/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg","srcSet":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/107df/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 320w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/293e9/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 500w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/f2cbb/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 800w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1789c/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 960w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/c26c2/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1dd6e/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/67b76/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 320w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/8df11/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 500w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/98a65/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 800w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1dd6e/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 960w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/3cc96/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Keep Water From Pooling in Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When you see water pooling in your yard, don't panic! Here are a few techniques to keep the excess water flowing from your yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"45e8a502-7227-5a74-a219-3e95a3842073","slug":"which-of-the-countrys-15-biggest-metro-areas-have-the-biggest-homes","path":"/blog/which-of-the-countrys-15-biggest-metro-areas-have-the-biggest-homes/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"June 4th, 2019","excerpt":"by John Egan Everything, it seems, is not bigger in Texas. Among the country’s 15 biggest metro areas, neither Dallas-Fort Worth, TX nor Houston, TX, is home to the largest residential units. Rather, Atlanta, GA, boasts the biggest residential units among the 15 metros. A review of 2017 data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s American […]
\n","content":"\nby John Egan
\n\n\n\nEverything, it seems, is not bigger in Texas.
\n\n\n\nAmong the country’s 15 biggest metro areas, neither Dallas-Fort Worth, TX nor Houston, TX, is home to the largest residential units. Rather, Atlanta, GA, boasts the biggest residential units among the 15 metros.
\n\n\n\nA review of 2017 data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s American Housing Survey shows the median size of an occupied residential unit in the Atlanta area — including houses, apartments and mobile homes — is 1,800 square feet. Atlanta edged out Houston, at 1,700 square feet. Tied for third place, with a median size of 1,600 square feet, are Philadelphia, PA; Phoenix, AZ; and Washington, DC.
\n\n\n\nNot surprisingly, New York City, NY, has the smallest residential units, with a median square footage of 1,150.
\n\n\n\nAndrea Morgan, a Realtor with Atlanta Intown Real Estate Services, partly attributes the overall greater size of homes in her region to a relatively low cost of living, enabling people to “afford more house for the money.” She notes that in 2018, she sold a 4,500-square-foot home in the Atlanta suburb of Stone Mountain — complete with a pool and a tennis court — for less than $500,000.
\n\n\n\nIn addition, Morgan says, because Georgia is a business-friendly and homebuilder-friendly state, there aren’t as many development restrictions as there might be in other states.
\n\n\n\nAnother factor propelling bigger homes, she adds, is the Atlanta area’s constantly snarled traffic.
\n\n\n\n“Once you get home, out of traffic, then you really want your home to be an oasis,” Morgan says, “so adding a man cave, theater room, kids’ play area, home gym, mommy ‘escape nook,’ luxury laundry, mudroom — all those rooms add up to lots of square feet. Throw in outdoor living space, and you need a pretty substantial lot to support your dream-home reality.”
\n\n\n\nWhat follows is our rundown of the median square footage of residential units in the biggest metro areas in the U.S., according to 2017 estimates from the American Housing Survey.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/atlanta-ga-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C700&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,800
Median property value: $215,100
Estimated cost per sq ft: $119.50
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/houston-tx-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,700
Median property value: $192,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $113.47
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/philly-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $250,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $156.81
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/phoenix-az-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C592&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $246,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $154.31
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/washington-dc-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C575&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $424,600
Estimated cost per sq ft: $265.38
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/dallas-tx-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,586
Median property value: $214,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $135.50
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/riverside-san-bernadino-ca-street-sign.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,500
Median property value: $342,300
Estimated cost per sq ft: $228.20
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/seattle-wa-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,500
Median property value: $439,800
Estimated cost per sq ft: $293.20
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/boston-ma-skyline.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,475
Median property value: $441,400
Estimated cost per sq ft: $299.25
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/chicago-il-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,400
Median property value: $240,300
Estimated cost per sq ft: $171.64
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/detroit-mi-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,400
Median property value: $171,600
Estimated cost per sq ft: $122.57
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/miami-fl-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C538&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,369
Median property value: $278,700
Estimated cost per sq ft: $203.58
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/la-ca-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,250
Median property value: $617,100
Estimated cost per sq ft: $493.68
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/san-fran-ca-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,250
Median property value: $849,500
Estimated cost per sq ft: $679.60
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/nyc-ny-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,150
Median property value: $440,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $383.39
Author Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: http://swgoths.org
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