![\"Fertilizers](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_14457202926_6d52aae30a_c.jpg\")
Maintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most […]
\n","content":"\nMaintaining a healthy, green lawn is a top concern for many homeowners, and fertilization is key to achieving this. Like any living thing, your grass requires nutrients to grow and thrive. Fertilizers are specifically developed to replenish these nutrients. But it’s important to know when and how to fertilize your lawn to make the most of it.
\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to fertilizing your lawn, timing is everything. The answer to the “when” question depends on the following:
\n\n\n\nBut there is one general rule: Don’t feed the lawn during periods of dormancy – only fertilize your grass at the time of year when it grows actively.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of grasses: warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses, and both have different growth and fertilization requirements. You have cool-season grass if you live in the northern third of the country and warm-season grass if you live in the southern third. If you live in the middle of the US, you may have either or both types of grass.
\n\n\n\nBut what is the right time to fertilize either of them? Here is the answer:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass grow actively in cooler months. Usually, the grass grows most actively in fall, so the best time to fertilize your lawn is once in early fall and once in late fall, at least 6 weeks before the expected first frost. During these times, the grass is actively developing and can best use the fertilizer’s nutrients.
\n\n\n\nYou can also apply fertilizer to your lawn in early spring because it’s the time when the grass greens up after winter dormancy and has a brief period of growth before the heat of summer sets in. It is the optimal time if you want to apply a third application of fertilizer to your lawn in addition to those done in fall.
\n\n\n![\"Cool](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone-1024x709.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, or Zoysiagrass, have totally different fertilization times. Because they actively grow in the warmer months, late spring and early summer is usually the best time to apply fertilizer. This helps the grass to receive nutrients during its active development phase while remaining lush throughout the summer.
\n\n\n\nIf you want a fall fertilizer application, early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first frost, is also suitable for your warm-season lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can read our guide to the ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to learn more about when to fertilize your lawn.
\n\n\n\nGenerally, apply fertilizer to your lawn two to four times per year. The frequency might vary depending on the type of grass, the makeup of your soil, the local climate of your area, and the type of fertilizer used. Slow-release fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks, so you should wait at least 6 weeks between applications. Immediate-release fertilizers need to be applied more often to remain effective, about every 4-6 weeks.
\n\n\n\nThe most common frequency recommendation for lawn fertilizer application is:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re sure you’ve got the timing right, follow these steps to fertilize your lawn in the best and most efficient way possible.
\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nBefore applying fertilizer to your lawn, you should do a few things to ensure the best results and minimize any potential harm to your grass or the environment. Preparing your lawn ahead of time will set up the foundation for successful fertilization.
\n\n\n\nSoil tests are like bloodwork for your soil. They describe the type of soil, the level of plant nutrients, and the soil pH, among other things. Get your soil tested by sending a sample to your local county Cooperative Extension office or buy an at-home test kit for quicker but less detailed results.
\n\n\n\nBased on the soil test results, amend your soil to make it adaptable for the turfgrass and fertilizer. Adjust the soil’s pH so that it’s between 6.5 to 7 (ideal for most grass types) by adding lime for lawns to increase the pH or sulfur to decrease the pH.
\n\n\n\nRemove any lawn weeds, moss, or excessive thatch growth in your lawn before fertilizing. Obstacles like these can prevent fertilizer from reaching the soil, which is where it needs to be for your grass to absorb its nutrients.
\n\n\n\nIdeally, you should mow the grass slightly lower than its typical maintenance height before fertilizing. Shorter grass permits the fertilizer to reach the soil more effectively and reduces the possibility of the fertilizer sitting on top of tall blades and causing burn or uneven distribution.
\n\n\n\nWater your lawn well for at least three to four days before fertilizing it. Moist soil improves nitrogen uptake and reduces the risk of fertilizer burn. Overwatering, on the other hand, can cause the fertilizer to seep away or become less effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nIt is essential to apply lawn fertilizer carefully to ensure nutrients reach the plant roots and deliver maximum benefits.
\n\n\n\nFirst, choose the right tool according to your lawn’s area and fertilizer type. There are various kinds of fertilizer spreaders, including:
\n\n\n\nFill your chosen tool with fertilizer on a non-grassy, hard surface like a driveway or sidewalk. This keeps spills or excess fertilizer from reaching the grass before you begin, which again reduces the risk of fertilizer burn.
\n\n\n\nStart Applying the Fertilizer: Begin walking across your lawn at a slow, steady pace, pushing the spreader consistently. If you’re using a sprayer, spray a wide arc in front of you, from side to side, as you walk. Then turn around and walk the other way in a line parallel to your first pass. Continue walking back and forth across the lawn in parallel lines until you’ve covered the whole area.
\n\n\n\nTo achieve thorough coverage and eliminate missed spots, overlap each pass slightly. If you’re using a granular fertilizer, check the grass for any prominent clumps or heaps of granules once you’ve finished applying it. Use a sweep or rake to disperse these clumps to ensure even dispersion.
\n\n\n\nNote: After each usage, properly clean your spreader or sprayer. Rinse it with water to remove any residual fertilizer, which can damage the equipment if not removed.
\n\n\n\n![\"close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_150456484_cef7d54b8f_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shaylor / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nWatering your lawn after fertilizing is essential for activating the nutrients in the fertilizer and ensuring optimum absorption by the grass’s roots. It is best to water your grass immediately after fertilizing it. This reduces the risk of burn from concentrated nutrients lingering on the grass blades.
\n\n\n\nUse an in-ground sprinkler system or a hose with a sprinkler attachment for even coverage. To avoid overwatering certain areas and underwatering others, make sure the water is distributed evenly across the lawn.
\n\n\n\nNote: If you use liquid fertilizer, wait two to four hours for the fertilizer to dry, and then water your lawn. Don’t water immediately after applying liquid fertilizer because it will wash the fertilizer away before it’s had time to soak into the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"broom](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/broom-for-sweeping-sidewalk-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: undefined undefined / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIn addition to cleaning your spreader or sprayer, it’s important to clean excess fertilizer off impervious surfaces near your grass, such as a driveway or patio. For granular fertilizers, sweep off any granules that may have landed on sidewalks or driveways to prevent runoff into nearby bodies of water. Fertilizer runoff can cause water pollution and harmful algae blooms.
\n\n\n\nBe especially diligent about sweeping up excess fertilizer if you have curious pets or small children in your family who might try to play with or even eat the tiny granules.
\n\n\n\nChoosing the right fertilizer for your lawn is critical. First of all, check your soil’s nutrient requirements through your soil test. Then select a fertilizer with a suitable nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus ratio according to your soil’s needs.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to finding a lawn fertilizer with the right nutrient blend, you’ll need to decide what type of fertilizer is best for your lawn. You’ll have to choose between slow-release and immediate-release fertilizers, synthetic and organic fertilizers, and liquid and granular fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about each of these options and figure out which one is best for you, see our guide on How to Choose Lawn Fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYes, organic fertilizers are an excellent choice for lawn care. They come from natural sources and provide slow-release nutrients that improve soil health and microbial activity. Organic fertilizers are less harmful to the environment and contribute towards eco-friendly lawn care.
\n\n\n\nLook for organic fertilizers designed exclusively for lawns in our guide to organic lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nIt’s critical to act quickly if you mistakenly over-fertilize. Thoroughly water the lawn to help dilute and flush out extra nitrogen and other nutrients. Mow as little as possible until the grass recovers, and consider skipping the next scheduled fertilization to let the grass rebalance. If extensive damage develops, such as the grass turning brown, your grass may be dead. Seek the advice of a lawn care specialist to figure out the best path forward.
\n\n\n\nIt’s best to avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat or drought. High heat and dry weather can cause stress on the grass, and fertilization during this time may worsen the stress.
\n\n\n\nRegular fertilization not only improves the general health and appearance of your lawn, but it also increases its resistance to external stressors like severe temperatures and foot traffic. It’s an essential technique contributing to a beautiful, healthy lawn you can enjoy all year. For help keeping up with a regular fertilization schedule, connect with a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn today.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SVproduction / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nArmyworms can turn your lawn into their own private mess hall in no time. They travel in platoons like soldiers and can devour a golf course, playing field, or your yard in just two or three days. We will show you how to get rid of armyworms before they destroy your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll explore:
\n\n\n\nIt’s not the adult armyworms you need to worry about, but the infantry. Yes, the worm in its infant or larva stage devours grass and leaves to grow to adulthood. You can win the battle against this army if you know how to identify the youngest members.
\n\n\n\n![\"Armyworm](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1young_-_fall_armyworm_in_oats002.jpg\")
The larvae range from dark green and brown to black. They’re only about an inch and a half long, so it might be tough to see the white, orange, and dark brown stripes along the caterpillar’s sides. However, its red or yellowish-capped head is a dead giveaway.
\n\n\n\n![\"Armyworm](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_fall_armyworm_moth_14862753532.jpg\")
Although the armyworm caterpillar is the grass-eating culprit, it’s the adult moths who lay the eggs – thousands of them at a time. Get rid of moths, and you get rid of the armyworms.
\n\n\n\nYou can identify armyworm moths by their inch-and-a-half wingspans. Their underwings are white, and their upper wings are light tan to brown with white specks.
\n\n\n\nMoths are attracted to lights and will lay their white, round eggs on the underside of leaves, grass blades, and structures near turf.
\n\n\n\nThe good news is armyworms cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees. The bad news? Many species will fly to Florida or South Texas for the winter. There are several ways to get rid of armyworms without using chemicals.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to running over the caterpillars, the shorter turf leaves survivors to die from exposure to the sun. Even if you plan to use insecticides, a shorter lawn will enable the chemicals to penetrate the soil.
\n\n\n\nBirds, ants, spiders, flies, ground beetles, and other beneficial insects feed on armyworms. Don’t be so quick to shoo away the wasps. Their next meal could save your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThese microscopic organisms feed on armyworm larvae, grubs, and hundreds of other garden pests. Nematodes won’t harm you, your plants, or the pollinators your plants depend on. Make sure you read the package directions and buy a species that targets armyworms.
\n\n\n\nAloe and marigolds produce a scent that armyworms find unappealing. Farmers will often plant tick clover or desmodium in their corn fields to keep the armyworms away.
\n\n\n\nA light spray of neem oil on your plants and lawn will kill the armyworm caterpillars within three days. This biological solution is perfectly safe for wasps, flies, and other armyworm predators.
\n\n\n\nBacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that’s toxic to armyworm larvae. Bt occurs naturally in soil, so it has no adverse effects on the environment. You can buy Bt in dust form, pellets, or sprays and apply it to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf the armyworm population in your yard is out of control, you may have no choice but to resort to an insecticide. Ortho and Spectracide offer several insect-killing lawn products that you can apply directly to your grass.
\n\n\n\nBefore buying an insecticide, make sure it contains one of these ingredients to get rid of armyworms:
\n\n\n\nThis highly toxic chemical will kill armyworms, but it’s also toxic to people, pets, bees, and fish. Be careful that you don’t use so much that it runs off into nearby waterways.
\n\n\n\nThis pyrethroid comes in granular form. It kills armyworms and other grass-munching bugs by disrupting the nervous system. It won’t kill earthworms or birds, but it is toxic to fish and bees.
\n\n\n\nAnother man-made insecticide, permethrin comes in granular and spray forms. Use with extreme caution as permethrin is also poisonous to people.
\n\n\n\nThis soil bacteria controls a wide variety of lawn pests and usually works within two days. The chemicals break down quickly in the soil and don’t contaminate groundwater. Most products containing spinosad are approved for organic agriculture.
\n\n\n\nSince armyworm caterpillars are most active at night, it’s best to treat your lawn at sundown. Use a heavier dose if the grass is thick or the armyworm population is extremely high.
\n\n\n\nBefore applying an insecticide, water the area well. The moisture will bring the armyworm larvae to the surface.
\n\n\n\nThe fall armyworm is one of the worst backyard pests in the U.S., destroying lawns and gardens faster than any other insect or lawn disease. You can reduce your risk of an armyworm invasion with a few preventative measures.
\n\n\n\nRemove the weeds, especially the broadleaf weeds like common chickweed and dandelions, where armyworm moths often lay their eggs.
\n\n\n\nThe debris and grass clippings that build up between your grass and the soil are another great host where the adult armyworm moths can lay eggs. Dethatch your lawn every spring, so the armyworms have no place to hide.
\n\n\n\nArmyworms look for hot, dry places to lay eggs and feed. Give your lawn at least an inch of water a week to make your yard less inviting.
\n\n\n\nDon’t wait for an infestation. Apply a preventive pesticide containing either methoxyfenozide, diflubenzuron, or chlorantraniliprole at the end of the spring and again in the fall. Follow all package instructions and use a slow-release insecticide that will last through the summer.
\n\n\n\nBunch grasses like ryegrass, St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, and fescue take the biggest hit from armyworms. Grasses with rhizome and stolon growth like Bermudagrass typically recover better.
\n\n\n\nYou’re better off planting Zoysiagrass. For some reason, armyworms don’t like the taste of the fine blades. The larva also tend to shy away from grass mixes, so next time you’re overseeding, add a different variety of seed to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying the armyworm enemy is crucial. To determine a count of the armyworms in your yard, begin with a soap flush. Use 2 tablespoons of liquid dish soap mixed with 1 gallon of water. Pour the mixture over a small area. Armyworm larvae and other insects will come to the surface.
\n\n\n\nIf you find only a handful, you can hand-pick them off your plants and drop them into another bucket of soapy water. Entomologists recommend a more extensive treatment when there are more than three caterpillars per square foot.
\n\n\n\nNo. Armyworms will not bite or sting. They are not poisonous if consumed and do not transmit diseases. They are harmful to plants and cause major economic concerns for farmers.
\n\n\n\nA lawn with an armyworm infestation will give off a frosted appearance or resemble drought stress at first. The tips of the grass blades where the armyworms are feeding will appear translucent. You will also notice a number of birds visiting to feast on the pests.
\n\n\n\nYes, the adult moths will look for plants with larger leaves to host their eggs. The armyworm larvae prefer:
\n\n\n\nSometimes, they’ll attack a bentgrass lawn, too. Of these grass types, Bermudagrass has the best chance of recovering since it spreads by fast-growing rhizomes and stolons.
\n\n\n\nNo. Although armyworms prefer warm, dry weather, you’ll find them in every U.S. state except Alaska.
Feel like you’re fighting a losing battle against armyworms and other lawn-destroying insects? We can help you find a lawn care professional near you to take care of all your lawn pest problems and give you tips to prevent future infestations.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: USGS Bee | Flickr
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\n","content":"\nThere are apps for everything, even booking lawn care. In this review, we’ll share what we learned about one of those lawn care companies, GreenPal – its services, prices, reputation, customer ratings and more.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal claims to be easy, affordable, and reliable. Is it? We think not. If you’re unhappy with your service, you’re probably going to have to duke it out with GreenPal’s lawn pro yourself because GreenPal doesn’t mediate problems between customers and its pros. More on that later.
\n\n\n\nOur verdict: Greenpal just doesn’t quite cut it, in our opinion. If you want lawn care, either hire a lawn care company directly using a service like Wikilawn, or if you prefer convenience, use a marketplace like LawnStarter that has higher quality and a convenient mobile app.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn this review:
\n\n\n\nBased in Nashville, GreenPal started as a shared idea between four friends who wanted to create the lawn care version of Uber and Airbnb. The founders, who all have backgrounds in the landscaping industry, recognized the demand for same-day lawn care the way Instacart provides on-demand grocery delivery, and created the company in April 2012.
\n\n\n\nNow, GreenPal is available in 45 states and claims to have over 1 million customers. More than 10,000 vendors on the app offer their services for lawn mowing and snow removal.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal lets you list your lawn care service needs on the app or website so local lawn care professionals can bid on your mowing or snow blowing jobs. The company claims you’ll get up to five bids within 24 hours, but we found bids started coming almost immediately.
\n\n\n\nEach lawn care quote includes the following:
\n\n\n\nGreenPal does not bag lawn clippings, prune shrubs or provide landscaping services. However, once a customer has initiated service with a lawn care company, arranging additional services directly with their lawn care professional is simple.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal’s lawn care professionals do not offer one-time services, preferring instead to become your regular lawn service. You can cancel ongoing services if you are unhappy with your lawn care.
\n\n\n\nThe price of lawn care through GreenPal depends on the size of your lawn, the services requested, and what local lawn care professionals are charging at the moment. When you enter your address, businesses get an aerial view of your lawn from Google Maps.
\n\n\n\nUsing this information, as well as street view imagery and the square footage of your lawn, GreenPal’s lawn pros can send you a quote quickly.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal’s website states that quotes start at around $25 to $45. That claim may be a little outdated. When we tested GreenPal using a suburban Austin, Texas, lawn, we received quotes ranging from $55 to $90.
\n\n\n\nNote: GreenPal, like a lot of companies in this industry, charges an extra fee for cutting long grass.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal does not actually mow lawns or plow snow. Rather, GreenPal is a service that connects you with lawn care professionals. Think of it as an intermediary. In that regard, it more closely resembles an auction house, and your lawn care job is the item being auctioned.
\n\n\n\nWe found that requesting quotes is pretty easy with GreenPal’s app and website.
\n\n\n\nHere are the steps:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/GWzdR3ztus8lAO8Lt0VO77KzdEZn_dB4ynyKowN8jHZYXL2-EbvJX-qFfSULi46uCJdQvoijNMUXgUe0d0r-6cPWfPU3s5ZHmEmWL9rqmVcxhGvDeEC4qnLv9yQ0zenitGowRMiFH4Ej9yEKgBL5bGMCRUb3l-6FDlGO1uXy5Swr_3hi-XL0sE10KlgeRA\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/TtJygWPtCvke6L2g1zcTVQMjSPtEdPq9dgaL4K3qi84tpEJQL6ggo_8G4ZKHKgvlZJKhQ67JNiZeSwCKZacPhhA9FvT-cJoyowOF0Me10_1j-VMgk6GOMy0LpuSczVGz06VRV4xmZzXXm96r82fjqqZq9SYpwMP9cQiR4rCpO-fXK-TRlOciE_BPy5aabQ\")
Next, you can tell the lawn care pros what other services may interest you, such as shrub pruning or re-mulching.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/2hoQIaIIQxBjq5OLd2A1mwDqbyimClPRbXNf2f0FlnjR_oXdbM1hNqcTPBfWDV4MVIHyST4eOfIR3IJJTJWayyV6EjntFCht8LS1sfOrzadef045-LzJWdgb2XXhoZyn5ambklZrsqnK74KVlZg-G8NQvoSgU77EznhWbIaq8_6vgQiQgUMwW-ICpd7_dQ\")
Worth noting about GreenPal: How satisfied you are with your lawn care will depend on the quality and professionalism of your lawn care provider. Some customers are unhappy with the customer service at GreenPal. Other customers found the website difficult to use.
\n\n\n\nWe did notice that once you request quotes, it is difficult to go back and change the information you provided.
\n\n\n\nAlso worth noting about GreenPal: As of this writing, GreenPal does not offer services beyond lawn maintenance and snow removal. If you’re looking for landscaping or hardscaping services, GreenPal expects you to request those from the company you hire directly and only after an initial lawn mowing service.
\n\n\n\nGreenPal doesn’t offer as many services as competitors Lawn Love and LawnStarter, but here’s a closer look at how the three big players and Wikilawn.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/6sGkGopdP_r9k_uoEON6uF-3mslgmR-4zcpaJPfgblb81a3aBHCktXRrnDcg4crFPqAgabHESRkMdzsRuUo-ST92oGDtBejwAI2-jeruSCVPTrkZHyj2VIJ37Z8ioFYPThhSlU3SJl0UVkxktQ8nNlWhL7CqwPh-hpcx_bcjQZtuNS_3Zh1K8O6lwZ8E2g\")
| Locations | Available in most metro areas across the U.S. |
| Services offered | Lawn care, lawn maintenance, yard cleanups, snow removal |
| Customer reviews (average at the time of publication) | 4.25 |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid to lawn care pros near you |
| Ways to book service | Website, app or phone |
| Basic price | You’ll get multiple lawn mowing quotes from $25 to $45 |
| Year founded | 2012 |
| Based in | Nashville |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/FMgGWyPHDvkGR2guu7WpE8u3k78roWKKkHZjIL-j1ds9YcMmU7RhRYMFEsdow40p1dun_yV-S0dAAfFbBXbC9ACtPcgLm98nJMl1m4_Mncenmz5OwC0GM0vkzv0_loCRveMes6XmsGLIJevTpttuoJrsF4ons5saBN_Bfsj_qu0BIThRajiVOFcmnQrYaA\")
| Locations | Available in most metro areas across the U.S. |
| Services offered | 20+ |
| Customer reviews (average at the time of publication) | 4.6 out of 5 |
| How it works | You get an instant quote, then a LawnStarter pro near you is assigned to handle your job |
| Ways to book service | Website, phone, or mobile app |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $19. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Austin, Texas |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/M7YPHZRMy-0KC9PSRmQ7ZPdEcqp89CrskOF3r7DaaetIr-5bPzpKqsMO65YlivvudNieJSRN09_QMhiHI4xliJ6gvfnM9vzarGGsZg3AZOcJEAk4Gr_oZ97pEC9sAXtbNlindmeDRhuVIx2V19DH0uzI0EVvOkaSeKDofINED5M544jQbYKAOdnhOXgSHg\")
| Locations | Available in most metro areas across the U.S. |
| Services offered | 10+ |
| Customer reviews (average at the time of publication) | 4.7 |
| How it works | You get an instant quote, then a Lawn Love pro near you is assigned to handle your job |
| Ways to book service | Website or phone |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $24. |
| Year founded | 2014 |
| Based in | San Diego |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | Yes |
![\"Wikilawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/rsz_171e64b7d-5080-473b-9793-87d2629a1cca_4_5005_c.jpg\")
| Locations | Available in most metro areas |
| Services offered | Lawn care, gardening, and landscaping |
| How it works | You get a quote in minutes from up to 4 professionals who can tackle your lawn care or other outdoor job. |
| Ways to book service | Website |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and the service providers’ quotes. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Dallas |
GreenPal screens the lawn care companies they host on their app and website. To do this, GreenPal:
\n\n\n\nOnce GreenPal admits a company to its network, the company must maintain positive reviews to remain eligible to bid on jobs.
\n\n\n\nIf there’s a problem with your service, you can discuss it directly with the lawn care professional you hired.
\n\n\n\nYou also can log on to GreenPal and select “Problem with Your Service” to prevent your bank account from being billed and alert your pro that there’s a problem they need to fix. You won’t be charged if the lawn care professional does not come back to fix the problem.
\n\n\n\nYou can tell a lot about a company by browsing customer reviews. Customers tell you what they like, what they don’t like, and where the company can improve. Here is how GreenPal users rate their experience:
\n\n\n\nA few positive and negative customer reviews from these websites:
\n\n\n\nGreat Service: “Recently purchased this home and needed to find a lawn service. I was having trouble finding someone late in the season but found GreenPal who set me up with a great vendor. System is easy and I get great email updates. Very pleased!” – Dan P.
\n\n\n\nGood if You’re Lucky, Terrible Otherwise: “This service was recommended to me by someone that had a great experience — but that is clearly highly variable based on the vendor that you choose. If you’re thrilled with them, you likely will never have a problem. If you have a problem with your vendors your experience will be wildly different.” – Mark B.
\n\n\n\nExcellent Experience: “Great experience with this platform now for over a year. Makes locating and booking quality lawn services very easy and payment to lawn services is easy also (automatic if you want it to be).” – Jon F
\n\n\n\nProblems with Customer Service: “Lawn service a no show and no contact after waiting 5 days to have grass cut. Now it’s much longer and will cost more to cut. The GreenPal app is horrible, and has no customer service or any contact information.” – Huda A.
\n\n\n\nWhile lawn care professionals on GreenPal prefer to mow grass under 10 inches tall, some providers may offer this service. Generally, you can expect to pay double for extremely overgrown grass.
When logged into your account, you can select “Add Additional Services” to add services you’d like included with your next mowing. If the “Add Additional Services” button isn’t present, you should set up weekly or biweekly mowings before adding extra services.
No, once you’ve hired your lawn care professional, you can go about your life as usual. Your credit card or bank account will be pre-authorized for your service and will be automatically charged once your service is completed. No extra work on your part.
If what you’re looking for is basic lawn maintenance or snow removal, GreenPal makes it easy to connect with local pros and receive a variety of quotes. GreenPal’s website is straightforward and makes it simple to get started.
\n\n\n\nBut if GreenPal doesn’t feel like your pal after all, try us. At Wikilawn, choose the service you want, put in your address, and we put your job out to bid to local yard care professionals.
\n\n\n\nThe price quotes you get back will depend upon the kind of work you want done, the size of your yard, and other factors, but we cast a really wide net to ensure you get the best price possible.
\n\n\n\nFor example, you may get quotes from pros affiliated with sites like LawnStarter, HomeAdvisor/ Angi, Networx, or several other lawn care providers.
\n\n\n\nGetting your lawn care through Wikilawn may even cost you less than GreenPal.
\n\n\n\nFor example, keying in two addresses in Ocala, Florida, and Dallas, Texas, generated lawn care quotes of $69 and change for those properties. As noted above, in our GreenPal test using a suburban Austin, Texas, lawn, we received quotes ranging from $55 to $90.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/o41y7OZo7c75Fp6eE5HQB1wBFSkABpK7vhyHTIahO_ktkPQGHRBaEpI3c2vJUFCsy0itw_PT6gqO-xBvORR9D5I3u3eBpFGuyz_f47ey5MerRaNDxjUjJDuDcPJnTv4t8RDC2BQ5sdRAzsOn22Zv2hproZ2LPt1OZEgm0q5HJqB-lrG66asPnLRQlfy5Qw\")
A better option if you’re looking for services other than lawn care and snow removal? LawnStarter and Lawn Love offer more outdoor services in one place.
\n\n\n\nLet’s close with a shameless plug: If it’s lawn care you want, why not give us a try. You’re already here on Wikilawn. We’ll find a pro near you who will keep your grass green, healthy, and weed free.
\n\n\n\nSure, you could choose GreenPal. But why not give your pal Wikilawn a try?
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"GreenPal Full Review: Reviews, Complaints, Scams, Prices","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7796143250688705,"src":"/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/bc41c/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/107df/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/293e9/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/bc41c/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 646w","srcWebp":"/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/7328c/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/67b76/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 320w,\n/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/8df11/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 500w,\n/static/995cf14d2e7c953f20a0a4e9bb1afcfa/7328c/GreenPal-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 646w","sizes":"(max-width: 646px) 100vw, 646px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"GreenPal Full Review: Reviews, Complaints, Scams, Prices | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"2564dfb0-d1b0-5c30-b6df-3390e9ffed53","slug":"transition-zone-grasses","path":"/blog/transition-zone-grasses/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2023","excerpt":"If you live in the middle region of the U.S., you likely live in what lawn care experts call the transition zone. In the transition zone, both warm-season and cool-season grass types can grow, but they might suffer during their dormant season. This guide will teach you how to plant and grow transition zone grasses […]
\n","content":"\nIf you live in the middle region of the U.S., you likely live in what lawn care experts call the transition zone. In the transition zone, both warm-season and cool-season grass types can grow, but they might suffer during their dormant season. This guide will teach you how to plant and grow transition zone grasses for a healthy lawn year-round.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide:
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses are those that grow well in the areas of the U.S. sandwiched between northern, cool-season grass states and southern, warm-season grass states. Transition zone grasses are a combination of both warm- and cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses include Bermudagrass, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Some of these are warm-season grasses, which grow best in hot temperatures and typically thrive in the southern U.S. Others are cool-season grasses, which grow best in cooler temperatures and typically thrive in the northern U.S.
\n\n\n\nSince neither type of grass is well-adapted to the transition zone, they can develop issues at different times of the year. For instance, in an area that is too warm, cool-season grasses might struggle in the heat and drought of summer. On the other hand, warm-season grasses will struggle through harsh winters and especially cold fall seasons.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe transition zone includes approximately the middle third of the U.S. The northern third of the country falls into the cool-season grass growing zone, and the southern third falls into the warm-season grass growing zone. See the map below to find out if you’re in the transition zone.
\n\n\n![\"Cool](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nHere are some states included in the transition zone:
\n\n\n\nNote that for some of these states, only the far northern or far southern region falls in the transition zone. It’s important to find your exact location on the map above to help you get an accurate picture of what grass types you can grow on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best lawns in the transition zone are usually made up of a combination of cool-season and warm-season grass types, which thrive at different times of the year. Warm-season grass will keep your lawn green and dense during summer, and cool-season grass will help your lawn stay green later into the fall when temperatures start to drop.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses can be found growing in northern regions of the U.S. where there are cold winters and temperatures usually average 60 to 75 degrees. These grasses endure very cold temperatures, and they stay green longer into the fall and green up sooner in spring than warm-season grasses. They grow most actively in spring and fall.
\n\n\n\nBecause cool-season grasses prefer cooler temperatures, they can struggle to stay green in summer and may go dormant.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis dark green, canoe-shaped cool-season grass is ideal for lawns in the transition zone, particularly those with lots of sun exposure. Kentucky bluegrass is a dense turfgrass often used on golf courses and other recreational areas. In regions where temperatures regularly get above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, this grass will go dormant in summer until temperatures cool.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nThis cool-season grass is ideal for homeowners who expect high levels of traffic in their yards. This grass is often combined with Kentucky bluegrass as a mixture. Unfortunately, perennial ryegrass is very high-maintenance and will require lots of mowing. When temperatures reach the high 70s in summer, this grass will go dormant.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nAs with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass, tall fescue is a high maintenance grass option, primarily because it grows so fast. On a positive note, this sun-loving grass handles foot traffic well. It also isn’t very susceptible to disease. When temperatures reach the mid to high 80s, this grass will go dormant until temperatures cool. It is one of the most heat-tolerant cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses typically grow in the southern U.S. where there are hot summers, and they thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand hot temperatures and endure drought conditions much better than cool-season grasses, but they will enter winter dormancy earlier in the year.
\n\n\n\nFind the best warm-season grasses to grow in the transition zone below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Bermudagrass\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: John Robert McPherson / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis sun-loving grass is able to withstand a lot of foot traffic. Unfortunately, it is very vulnerable to diseases and requires a lot of maintenance. As a warm-season grass, Bermudagrass can experience plenty of extremely hot temperatures and still grow and thrive. It can even tolerate drought well. However, this grass will fall into dormancy when temperatures remain consistently at about 50 degrees.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/zoysiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is a dense, deeply rich green turfgrass that has a high tolerance for foot traffic. It is also a low-maintenance grass that can keep weeds at bay. One weak spot for this grass is that it is susceptible to various types of lawn diseases. On a positive note, because Zoysiagrass is a warm-season grass, it can withstand high temperatures and drought conditions. It tends to go dormant in temperatures below 55 degrees.
\n\n\n\nCaring for transition zone grasses isn’t much different than caring for cool-season grasses in cooler regions or warm-season grasses in warm regions. The same strategies for irrigation, weed control, pest and disease treatment, fertilization, and mowing should be employed depending on what type of grass is in your yard. Here are some basic lawn care tips to keep in mind when caring for both cool and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nCaring for grass in the transition zone can be tricky because you may have a cool-season or warm-season grass in your yard, and the best time to perform lawn maintenance tasks varies for each.
\n\n\n\nSo, before starting with a maintenance routine, it’s important to know what type of grass is in your yard. Once you know you have warm-season or cool-season grass, you can proceed with seasonal maintenance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn spring, both cool-season and warm-season grasses will start to green up after winter dormancy. Once your grass greens up and starts growing again, it’s time to start mowing and fertilizing regularly.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses typically start to green up in early spring, while warm-season grasses wait until late spring when the soil warms up a bit. Because it is the beginning of the growing season, late spring is the best time to plant new warm-season grass seeds. It is also the best time to aerate and dethatch warm-season lawns.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDuring summer, irrigation will be critical for your transition zone grass, particularly cool-season grasses, which struggle in heat and drought conditions. Water your lawn with about 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week, skipping weeks with rainfall. For cool-season grasses, you may need to increase the frequency of your watering sessions.
\n\n\n\nHowever, if your cool-season grass goes dormant in summer, excess water will not help it but will encourage weeds, pests, and lawn diseases. Dormant cool-season grasses may turn brown, but that doesn’t mean they’re dead. Avoid fertilizing them, as fertilizers do nothing for dormant grass.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, summer is warm-season grass’s time to shine! This is when these grasses grow most actively, so you will need to mow your lawn at least once per week and maybe more during summer.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOnce autumn sets in, warm-season grasses will begin to slow their growth, while cool-season grass growth will start to pick up the pace. Fall is the best time to aerate, dethatch, and seed cool-season grasses. You can also fertilize them once in early fall and again in late fall with a specialized fall lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nYou should not aerate, dethatch, or plant warm-season grasses in fall, as they are preparing to enter dormancy and need to rest. You can fertilize them in early fall, but be sure to use a low-nitrogen fertilizer designed to help grass through the winter. As the temperatures cool, you can also lower the amount you water your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDuring winter in the transition zone, most grass types will go dormant, whether they are warm-season or cool-season types. Don’t mow or fertilize the lawn during winter dormancy, and do your best to avoid walking or driving on the lawn during this time. The best thing you can do for your grass during this time is leave it alone.
\n\n\n\nInstead of working on your grass, take this time to winterize your lawn equipment, including lawn mowers, weed eaters, and sprinkler systems.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPay attention to how much sun your yard gets, and choose a grass type that thrives in the right level of sun exposure. For example, if your yard is full of huge shade trees, a sun-loving grass like Bermuda probably won’t grow very well for you.
\n\n\n\nAnother thing to think about is the maintenance level you’re comfortable with. How much work are you willing to put into your lawn? If the answer is “not much,” you should choose a low-maintenance grass that will still look great even if you don’t do much to help it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA quick way to determine which hardiness zone you reside in so that you can discover the best plans and grasses to grow is by typing your zip code into the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYes. Grasses in this region may experience dormancy more than in northern or southern regions because the summers are typically hot, which leads to cool-season grass dormancy, and the fall seasons are typically chilly, which leads to warm-season grass dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot everyone was born with a green thumb. And even if you have a knack for planting and growing grass successfully, this doesn’t mean you have the time to do it properly – especially if you live in the transition zone, where lawn care is fraught with challenges. For help maintaining your transition zone lawn so it always looks its best, contact a local lawn care pro to schedule regular maintenance on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: lilkar / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"Guide to Transition Zone Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/1789c/Four-season-tree.jpg","srcSet":"/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/107df/Four-season-tree.jpg 320w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/293e9/Four-season-tree.jpg 500w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/f2cbb/Four-season-tree.jpg 800w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/1789c/Four-season-tree.jpg 960w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/c26c2/Four-season-tree.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/1dd6e/Four-season-tree.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/67b76/Four-season-tree.webp 320w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/8df11/Four-season-tree.webp 500w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/98a65/Four-season-tree.webp 800w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/1dd6e/Four-season-tree.webp 960w,\n/static/df88167f74fe7233a2ec4019224ddf38/3cc96/Four-season-tree.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Transition Zone Grasses | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"The best grass for the transition zone is usually a combination of warm-season and cool-season grass. Learn more in this guide to transition zone grasses."}}},{"node":{"id":"60342570-630f-51a1-ace2-3c700993b3e1","slug":"artificial-grass-for-dogs","path":"/blog/artificial-grass-for-dogs/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Carmen Dexter is a freelance journalist and teacher who enjoys growing her own organic food and recycling as much as possible.","name":"Carmen Dexter","id":"f23ec685-a615-5004-a3fd-c0bfe6b2c9ec","path":"/author/carmen-dexter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/e37085a8a22d319f3383613d59d54c5f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 3rd, 2022","excerpt":"Want a lawn where Fido can jump and play, but not destroy? Artificial grass could save you time and money. Choose the right type of artificial grass for dogs, and it may even be pet-friendlier than the lawn you work so hard on to maintain. Check out these pros and cons, along with other helpful […]
\n","content":"\nWant a lawn where Fido can jump and play, but not destroy? Artificial grass could save you time and money. Choose the right type of artificial grass for dogs, and it may even be pet-friendlier than the lawn you work so hard on to maintain.
\n\n\n\nCheck out these pros and cons, along with other helpful information about artificial grass for dogs, and you may be ready to turn synthetic turf into pet turf.
\n\n\n\nContents
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| 1. Evergreen | 1. Costly |
| 2. No More Bugs | 2. Needs Replacing |
| 3. Less Mess Inside | 3. Heats Up |
| 4. Easy Cleanup Outside | 4. Odor |
| 5. Allergy Free |
You don’t have to spend the summer mowing and weeding your lawn to placate your pup. Let’s look at the benefits for pet owners and their dogs of installing fake grass.
\n\n\n\nTired of brown or yellow spots on your natural lawn? Chances are, your dog (or someone else’s) has been peeing there. Dog urine has a high concentration of nitrogen and salt that kills grass.
\n\n\n\nDead grass isn’t a problem you’ll have to worry about with a synthetic lawn. Artificial turf won’t stain when Lassie does her business, and the yard looks good year-round.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re tired of fleas and ticks hitching a ride inside on your pooch, artificial grass helps put a stop to that. It keeps your pet healthier, helping him to avoid the scratching, red, scaly skin, hair loss, and scabs. You also won’t have to worry about fleas and other pests making your pet seriously ill with tapeworm or anemia.
\n\n\n\nWildlife carries fleas. Deer and rabbits won’t be dropping by to feed on your artificial grass. You also won’t have to worry about getting rid of grubs or other lawn-destroying bugs since there’s nothing for them to feast on. Synthetic turf’s drainage holes also keep water from pooling, so there’s no standing water to attract insects.
\n\n\n\nDogs aren’t just bringing fleas into your home. They track in dirt with muddy paws and matted fur when you have real grass. Cleanup is no fun, especially if you have wall-to-wall carpet.
\n\n\n\nArtificial grass turf doesn’t have bare spots where rain leaves a muddy mess for our furry friends to play. And fake grass won’t come off on your pooch’s fur when they roll around and play.
\n\n\n\nThe smell is a big concern for pet owners considering synthetic lawns. After all, they’re dealing with poop and dog pee daily. Artificial grass products include turf deodorizer that sits between the grass blades and liquid cleaners that eliminate odor.
\n\n\n\nWhether you have a lawn made of sod or artificial grass, you should pick up dog poop as soon as possible. Waiting too long poses health risks. You’ll have to hose it down several times and spray vinegar and water on the affected area. Use a leaf blower to remove any sticks or debris, then simply hose down the artificial lawn with a garden hose.
\n\n\n\nPet turf may be your only choice if you or your dog are allergic to grass. Pets may suffer constant scratching, hair loss, or rashes from rolling or digging in natural grass or just being around it. Synthetic turf is a great way to have a lovely green lawn without sacrificing your dog’s health.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no way around it. Putting in a synthetic lawn costs more than real grass- at least at first. Artificial turf installation runs an average of just over $12 per square foot, or about $5,000 for the average lawn, while even the most expensive sod averages 83 cents per square foot.
\n\n\n\nLaying natural grass may require purchasing or renting a sod cutter, roto-tiller, and other expensive equipment. Installing artificial grass requires all that plus infill, a weed barrier, edging, adhesives, and the actual synthetic grass.
\n\n\n\nThe cost may even out in the long run, as maintenance on real grass is more expensive than that of artificial turf. You’ll have to decide if low maintenance down the road on fake grass outweighs the initial expense.
\n\n\n\nReplacing synthetic turf is much more costly than replacing sod, and times vary on how often it’s necessary. Turf on a sports field gets more use than in your backyard and needs replacing more frequently.
\n\n\n\nAssuming normal lawn use, a well-maintained, quality artificial lawn can last 15 to 20 years. Developers continue to improve the durability and appearance of the grass, but pet waste can shorten the synthetic tuff’s lifespan if not cleaned properly, due to build-up on the grass blades.
\n\n\n\nIt’s cheaper to keep natural grass looking good by overseeding every year. This keeps it greener, creates a thicker carpet, and tacks on years to the lawn at a very small cost. Grass seed averages 8 to 20 cents per square foot.
\n\n\n\nArtificial grass can get too hot for our furry friends’ paws when the sun is out. Dogs already run hotter than humans, with an average temperature of 101 degrees. So leaving them outside when the thermometer climbs may lead to dehydration or heat stroke.
\n\n\n\nnatural grass releases water vapor that leads to cooling, but fake grass can’t do that, so it absorbs the heat. While most studies on the temperature of synthetic turf relate to sports fields, it’s estimated that an artificial lawn gets at least 20 degrees hotter than a natural lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can help keep Fido cool by limiting outdoor playtime on the synthetic turf to mornings and evenings and keep your pup inside during the hottest time of the day. You also want to make sure your yard has a shaded area where your pup can rest without feeling the heat.
\n\n\n\nYou can’t rely on enough steady rain to rinse pet waste from the turf. As we’ve already mentioned, picking up poop as soon as your dog goes keeps it from drying on the fake grass. You should also take immediate action when it comes to pet urine.
\n\n\n\nDog pee makes its way through the blades of fake grass and congeals in the bottom of the carpet if it’s not removed. As it builds up, so does the smell. Hosing down your artificial turf regularly eliminates the urine and smell.
\n\n\n\nThe best artificial grass for dogs is called pet turf. While all synthetic lawn carpets have porous backing for drainage, pet turf has highly durable backing with slightly larger drainage holes. This allows dog pee to pass through the turf without congealing.
\n\n\n\nPet turf works well for large and small dogs and even multiple furry friends. You can also put it in dog runs and kennels. It’s important to note that the sub-base must be properly installed. If not, dogs can dig up the turf or tear it, especially at the seams and edges.
\n\n\n\nUltimately, You have to make the choice that works best for you and your dog, whether that’s a natural lawn or synthetic turf. But it’s good to know that low-maintenance, pet-friendly artificial grass is an option.
\n\n\n\n1. Is Artificial Grass Safe for Dogs?
\n\n\n\nYes, and often it’s safer than sod. Most artificial grass is made of polyethylene, the same plastic used for kids’ toys and common household products.
\n\n\n\nWhat CAN make synthetic grass harmful is lead in the green coloring of the blades or black tire crumbs as infill. Those materials can be toxic, so only use artificial turf and infill that has been tested and is 100% lead and latex free.
\n\n\n\n2. How Do You Clean Pet Turf?
\n\n\n\nA spray with the garden hose is essential after daily bathroom breaks, but you’ll need to do a bit more on a weekly basis.
\n\n\n\nAfter picking up pet waste, add vinegar to the water to keep the urine and poop from congealing at the base of the fake grass. You can also sprinkle baking soda on the affected area, then hose it off.
\n\n\n\n3. Can Synthetic Lawns be Installed Around Landscaping?
\n\n\n\nYes. Fake grass can be cut to fit around trees, mailboxes, swing sets, or anything else you may have in your yard. You will have to take some extra steps while installing it, so be sure to measure twice before making any cuts.
\n\n\n\nDon’t worry about fake grass blocking the tree’s water source. The backing on artificial turf is quite porous, and rainwater easily reaches the roots.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or energy to install an artificial lawn? We can find a landscaping pro near you to install it for you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Rawpixel
\n","title":"Pros and Cons of Artificial Grass for Dogs","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/1789c/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/107df/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg 320w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/293e9/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg 500w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/f2cbb/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg 800w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/1789c/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg 960w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/c26c2/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/1dd6e/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/67b76/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp 320w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/8df11/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp 500w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/98a65/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp 800w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/1dd6e/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp 960w,\n/static/d9716da14a829640ed0e742344082592/3cc96/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-3293468-original.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Pros and Cons of Artificial Grass for Dogs | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Artificial grass may be better for your dog and your landscape than sod. We look at the pros and cons of artificial grass for dogs."}}},{"node":{"id":"d83f622e-8d9b-5590-8f22-0eca0edf7db0","slug":"lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional","path":"/blog/lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"October 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"The rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed. The last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do […]
\n","content":"\nThe rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed.
\n\n\n\nThe last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do it yourself, or are you better off hiring a professional? Here are the pros and cons of DIY lawn aeration vs. hiring a professional.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/n7T7g8yk7QfRDitctwYmrgWDu6JdJtS1R0C6zsHPi2CqZ9RNjN6BBQnT5-QVR1pCoIRVR0NIdYzubLglXEQpi4QTZiEsENmgcnxo2QBiuAJQkv6glwSjZgUJszbfVs-5V6LfWSAB\")
Your lawn may need to be aerated for any of several reasons. First among them: compaction, when the soil particles are pressed together into a smaller area. Soil compaction leaves less room for air and water to get to the roots.
\n\n\n\nIt is common in areas that have clay soil, or on new lawns where construction activity tamps down the soil, or any lawn that gets a lot of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nA thick layer of thatch can also be a reason to aerate. Thatch is the natural organic matter between the soil and the green blades of grass. A little thatch is necessary and healthy for your lawn. Too much thatch can lead to pest problems and prevent water and air from getting to the grass roots. If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, you may have too much thatch. Bend low and inspect: If the matted brown layer under your green grass blades is more than a half-inch, you may need to aerate.
\n\n\n\nAeration removes pokes holes in your lawn, allowing precious air and water to get down into the roots. It can also loosen the soil, and encourage the grass roots to grow deeper and spread, making your lawn healthier.
\n\n\n\nAerate during the peak of your lawn’s growing season. Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass should be aerated in the spring, and early fall, but warm-season grasses such as St. Augustinegrass need aerating in the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nStart with soil that’s not too dry. Aerating the day after a rain, or after watering is best.
\n\n\n\nDon’t clean up the plugs of soil; leave them to break down and return the nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k-jhjtyFGEXEpnZYMsxHJAP0MvwGNvbruiJLtgNXHdTy7dA6iCG63p4G2fBrzGfnYqwtgt2H81pJTYu34PljU1DA_fPDfSXwcG11H5VYGaT0nT6yrJ2_t3soyyvPGXa_T6spIX--\")
If you do it yourself, you have a choice of aeration techniques. Some are engine-powered machines, some simple tools. All of them share one essential task: poking holes in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nExperts consider core aerators to be superior. Core aeration machines can be purchased or rented for the day or the weekend to get the job done. This will pull out plugs of thatch and soil, allowing oxygen to get down to the roots. Core aeration is also a must in clay soil, where the soil compacts easily. Pulling the plugs out of the ground is the best way to achieve a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nA spike aerator punches holes in your lawn with solid metal tines. You can even find spike aerators that strap onto your shoes. This allows you to march around your lawn, sans machine.
\n\n\n\nThis last point is crucial because it could save you from making an expensive mistake.
\n\n\n\nDr. Kevin Frank with the Michigan State University Extension Department on Crop and Soil Sciences warns, “Also be aware of any other underground lines, e.g., invisible dog fence wire. These lines should be buried deep enough to avoid any trouble, but it never hurts to double-check.”
\n\n\n\nWhether you do it yourself, or you have a lawn service aerate, you will be performing a task vital to your lawn’s health. Every living being on the planet needs oxygen and water to survive, and your grass is no different. Aeration provides the roots of your lawn access to both, leaving your lawn greener, thicker and more beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Wikimedia, CC 3.0
\n","title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional","featured_media":null,"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"45e8a502-7227-5a74-a219-3e95a3842073","slug":"which-of-the-countrys-15-biggest-metro-areas-have-the-biggest-homes","path":"/blog/which-of-the-countrys-15-biggest-metro-areas-have-the-biggest-homes/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"June 4th, 2019","excerpt":"by John Egan Everything, it seems, is not bigger in Texas. Among the country’s 15 biggest metro areas, neither Dallas-Fort Worth, TX nor Houston, TX, is home to the largest residential units. Rather, Atlanta, GA, boasts the biggest residential units among the 15 metros. A review of 2017 data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s American […]
\n","content":"\nby John Egan
\n\n\n\nEverything, it seems, is not bigger in Texas.
\n\n\n\nAmong the country’s 15 biggest metro areas, neither Dallas-Fort Worth, TX nor Houston, TX, is home to the largest residential units. Rather, Atlanta, GA, boasts the biggest residential units among the 15 metros.
\n\n\n\nA review of 2017 data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s American Housing Survey shows the median size of an occupied residential unit in the Atlanta area — including houses, apartments and mobile homes — is 1,800 square feet. Atlanta edged out Houston, at 1,700 square feet. Tied for third place, with a median size of 1,600 square feet, are Philadelphia, PA; Phoenix, AZ; and Washington, DC.
\n\n\n\nNot surprisingly, New York City, NY, has the smallest residential units, with a median square footage of 1,150.
\n\n\n\nAndrea Morgan, a Realtor with Atlanta Intown Real Estate Services, partly attributes the overall greater size of homes in her region to a relatively low cost of living, enabling people to “afford more house for the money.” She notes that in 2018, she sold a 4,500-square-foot home in the Atlanta suburb of Stone Mountain — complete with a pool and a tennis court — for less than $500,000.
\n\n\n\nIn addition, Morgan says, because Georgia is a business-friendly and homebuilder-friendly state, there aren’t as many development restrictions as there might be in other states.
\n\n\n\nAnother factor propelling bigger homes, she adds, is the Atlanta area’s constantly snarled traffic.
\n\n\n\n“Once you get home, out of traffic, then you really want your home to be an oasis,” Morgan says, “so adding a man cave, theater room, kids’ play area, home gym, mommy ‘escape nook,’ luxury laundry, mudroom — all those rooms add up to lots of square feet. Throw in outdoor living space, and you need a pretty substantial lot to support your dream-home reality.”
\n\n\n\nWhat follows is our rundown of the median square footage of residential units in the biggest metro areas in the U.S., according to 2017 estimates from the American Housing Survey.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/atlanta-ga-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C700&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,800
Median property value: $215,100
Estimated cost per sq ft: $119.50
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/houston-tx-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,700
Median property value: $192,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $113.47
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/philly-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $250,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $156.81
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/phoenix-az-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C592&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $246,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $154.31
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/washington-dc-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C575&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,600
Median property value: $424,600
Estimated cost per sq ft: $265.38
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/dallas-tx-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,586
Median property value: $214,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $135.50
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/riverside-san-bernadino-ca-street-sign.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,500
Median property value: $342,300
Estimated cost per sq ft: $228.20
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/seattle-wa-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,500
Median property value: $439,800
Estimated cost per sq ft: $293.20
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/boston-ma-skyline.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,475
Median property value: $441,400
Estimated cost per sq ft: $299.25
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/chicago-il-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,400
Median property value: $240,300
Estimated cost per sq ft: $171.64
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/detroit-mi-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,400
Median property value: $171,600
Estimated cost per sq ft: $122.57
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/miami-fl-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg?fit=1024%2C538&ssl=1\")
Median square footage: 1,369
Median property value: $278,700
Estimated cost per sq ft: $203.58
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/la-ca-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,250
Median property value: $617,100
Estimated cost per sq ft: $493.68
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/san-fran-ca-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,250
Median property value: $849,500
Estimated cost per sq ft: $679.60
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/nyc-ny-skyline-for-big-houses.jpg\")
Median square footage: 1,150
Median property value: $440,900
Estimated cost per sq ft: $383.39
Author Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: http://swgoths.org
\n","title":"Which of the Country’s 15 Biggest Metro Areas Have the Biggest Homes?","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.430976430976431,"src":"/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/73f1e/floor-plan.jpg","srcSet":"/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/107df/floor-plan.jpg 320w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/293e9/floor-plan.jpg 500w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/f2cbb/floor-plan.jpg 800w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/73f1e/floor-plan.jpg 850w","srcWebp":"/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/05ed0/floor-plan.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/67b76/floor-plan.webp 320w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/8df11/floor-plan.webp 500w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/98a65/floor-plan.webp 800w,\n/static/75b773472d7dd168e3df5f1917d7a1a1/05ed0/floor-plan.webp 850w","sizes":"(max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Which of the Country’s 15 Biggest Metro Areas Have the Biggest Homes? | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"85163eb4-3d4e-55b7-a216-988dafb66f52","slug":"how-to-identify-grass-fungus","path":"/blog/how-to-identify-grass-fungus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2022","excerpt":"Is your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them. Contents: What is Grass Fungus? 10 Types of FungusDollar SpotGray Leaf SpotGray Snow MoldPink Snow MoldLeaf SpotNecrotic Ring SpotPowdery MildewRed ThreadBrown PatchSummer Patch […]
\n","content":"\nIs your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nA grass fungus is a microorganism that grows and thrives in the soil. It manifests itself as a fruiting body such as mushrooms or in the form of a disease such as summer patch.
Sometimes the fungus can lie dormant in cooler seasons and start to show itself in hot months, or vice versa. Grass fungus can attack the roots or leaves of your lawn, zapping it of nutrients and often changing its appearance.
\n\n\n\nSeveral of these fungi can result in a number of lawn diseases. Here are the ten most common types of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nThis fungus spreads throughout the yard through infected tools or grass clippings. It may even spread by shoes tracking through the grass. Dollar spot starts in early summer and reaches its peak in late summer. It thrives in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Bentgrass and Zoysia are grasses that are susceptible to this type of fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gray](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-07-29_at_113159_am-1024x504.jpg\")
Gray leaf spot creates an enormous amount of spores that invade grass through cut leaf tips. This fungus targets St. Augustinegrass but can also affect Bermudagrass, ryegrass, centipedegrass, and tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms
\n\n\n\nTreatment
\n\n\n\nGray snow mold is a fungus that grows in winter under snow in temperatures between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, spreading its threads into plant tissues. This disease tends to attack bluegrasses, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescues.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nSimilar to gray snow mold, this fungus attacks the grass leaves, forming a disease that looks like red or coral webs. Unlike gray snow mold, pink snow mold doesn’t require snow to thrive. Annual bluegrasses and bentgrasses are most susceptible to this type of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaf](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_manchas_foliares_-_hongos_sobre_hoja_de_rumex_sp-_leaf_spot_7494223286.jpg\")
Leaf spot develops in early spring and spreads in spring or late fall, attacking the grass crown and roots. This fungus attacks Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_img_2816-1024x768.jpg\")
Necrotic ring spot attacks the roots of grass, creating donut-shaped dead spots. It attacks fine fescue, annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and rough bluegrass.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nThis fungus forms in moist, cool climates when the ground has poor air circulation. It forms on the grass blades, particularly Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_31616759565_dc7c3259f9_c.jpg\")
You can identify red thread by the clusters of red or pink threads throughout your fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, bentgrasses, or bluegrasses. The fungus enters the grass through its blades, spreading to other areas, and is common in rainy seasons of spring and early summer.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch attacks the roots and spreads to the leaves and stems of grass. This fungus attacks fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and bluegrasses.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Summer](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14747617254_dd85aea258_c.jpg\")
Summer patch is a fungus that usually attacks Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, and annual bluegrasses. The fungus attacks the roots of the grass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent a grass fungus from invading your lawn with a few lawn maintenance tips.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a lawn fungus go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. The fungus will spread and get worse over time.
\n\n\n\n2. Are certain grass types more susceptible to lawn fungus than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. For example, Bermudagrass, bluegrasses, and Zoysiagrasses are vulnerable to various types of fungus. Planting a much more resistant species like creeping red fescue will help keep fungus at bay.
\n\n\n\n3. Will mowing the infected lawn spread the disease?
\n\n\n\nYes. The blades of your mower could spread the fungus throughout your yard. To minimize the spread of the pathogens to other parts of your yard via your lawn mower, clean and disinfect the mower blades before each mow.
\n\n\n\nNot sure how to treat the grass fungus invading your lawn? We’ll help you find a lawn care professional in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Flickr/ Kris Lourd/CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/107df/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/293e9/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/f2cbb/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/a2a79/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/67b76/Red-Thread-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/8df11/Red-Thread-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/98a65/Red-Thread-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/7aa54/Red-Thread-disease.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Is your lawn facing brown patch, snow mold, or fairy ring? We'll show you how to identify the types of grass fungus that has your lawn looking sickly."}}},{"node":{"id":"84e8c378-4369-5dc9-982c-0b7dbc24facb","slug":"the-12-metro-areas-that-are-the-most-revved-up-about-cars","path":"/blog/the-12-metro-areas-that-are-the-most-revved-up-about-cars/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"April 13th, 2019","excerpt":"By John Egan The more than 4.5 million residents of the Riverside-San Bernardino, CA, metro area are driven to drive. A WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shifts Southern California’s Riverside-San Bernardino metro area into the highest gear when it comes to major metro areas that are the most revved up about cars. Now, […]
\n","content":"\nBy John Egan
\n\n\n\nThe more than 4.5 million residents of the Riverside-San Bernardino, CA, metro area are driven to drive.
A WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shifts Southern California’s Riverside-San Bernardino metro area into the highest gear when it comes to major metro areas that are the most revved up about cars.
Now, you might be wondering why we care about cars so much. Well, as a lawn care company, we’re a little curious about which metro areas have garages crammed with cars rather than lawn care equipment.
To come up with this ranking, we looked under the hood at data from the the Census Bureau’s 2013-2017 American Community Survey. Once there, we crunched data for the 50 largest U.S. metro areas in two categories:
We then figured out the percentage of occupied housing units that have at least three vehicles, defined by the Census Bureau as cars, pickup trucks, SUVs or vans. Riverside-San Bernardino — known as the Inland Empire — parked in the No. 1 spot, with nearly 28.4 percent of occupied housing units (mainly houses, apartments and condos) having at least three vehicles.
We limited our analysis to the 50 largest metro areas in the U.S.
Matt DeLorenzo, senior managing editor at Irvine, CA-based automotive valuation and research company Kelley Blue Book, attributes Riverside-San Bernardino’s place atop the ranking, at least in part, to its location between the sprawling Los Angeles metro area and the mountains and deserts of Southern California.
“People in this area most likely have a lot of toys, ranging from off-road vehicles and motorcycles to boats and campers,” DeLorenzo says. “So they need vehicles for towing or getting to their preferred weekend activities.”
As for five of our top 12 being in California, DeLorenzo offers a one-word explanation: geography.
“California has big urban areas that are somewhat served by mass transit, but the main people movers are cars, trucks and SUVs,” he says.
In 2017, nearly 25.5 million automobiles were registered in California, according to the state Department of Motor Vehicles. Almost 2 million cars and pickup trucks were expected to have been sold throughout the state in 2018, the California New Car Dealers Association says.
A 2003 article in the New York Times noted that California reigns as the No. 1 automotive market in the state, considering that it’s also the biggest state in terms of population.
California’s car culture has been cultivated since the 1950s, the article said.
“Californians do not cruise much anymore, nor do they hang out at drive-ins, and parking is generally not allowed on the beaches,” the article pointed out. “Still, the car culture persists because drivers continue to spend a lot of time sitting on freeway on-ramps, imagining they could be doing these things instead of waiting … to join the herd on Interstate 5.”
With Riverside-San Bernardino racing to the lead position, here’s our ranking of the 12 Metro Areas That Are Most Revved Up About Cars.
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Bernardino-CA.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,335,366
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 378,794
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 28.37%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Jose-CA.jpg?fit=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 647,891
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 174,268
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 26.90%
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Richmond-VA.jpg?fit=1024%2C639&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 479,256
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 123,195
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 25.71%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Salt-Lake-City-UT.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 382,620
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 98,057
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 25.63%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Nashville-TN.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 691,266
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 164,594
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.81%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Birmingham-Alabama.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 440,261
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 104,514
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.74%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Diego-CA-.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,111,739
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 260,552
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.44%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Sacramento-CA.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 811,543
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 187,149
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.06%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Denver-CO.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,075,807
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 244,836
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.76%
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Virginia-Beach-VA.jpg?fit=1024%2C615&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 638,027
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 145,090
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.74%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Charlotte-North-Carolina.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 906,355
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 202,932
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.39%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Los-Angeles-California.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 4,320,174
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 966,163
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.36%
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/The-12-Metro-Areas-That-Are-the-Most-Revved-Up-About-Cars-v2.png\")
Top Photo: Flickr // Kelly Hobbs
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
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\n","content":"\nIf lawn care’s got you down, consider artificial grass. There are a number of reasons to switch to artificial grass. It conserves water, it’s durable and may be more cost-effective over time.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll highlight four reasons to switch to artificial grass – and some of the drawbacks of manufactured or fake turf.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSynthetic turf is made from stronger materials today than it was 30 years ago. Manufacturers attach the individual blades to a backing, much like a carpet that you roll out over a prepared yard space. Artificial grass has vastly improved and looks more like the real thing these days.
\n\n\n\nAside from saving you hours of yard work, there are numerous benefits of switching to artificial turf.
\n\n\n\nWith synthetic grass, you don’t have to worry about sprinklers. You’ll help the planet and significantly reduce your water bill.
\n\n\n\nOne-third of the country is suffering from drought right now. The government estimates Americans use 9 billion gallons a day watering our lawns. We waste much of it due to wind, evaporation, and runoff.
\n\n\n\nYou can get rid of the mower, weedeater, and edger. With artificial turf, you’ll never have to worry about lawn care.
\n\n\n\nHowever low-maintenance doesn’t mean no maintenance. You’ll want to keep your garden hose handy, especially if you have pets. You will have to spend about 15 minutes a week keeping it clean with a few minimal chores.
\n\n\n\nIf you can afford the initial cost to switch to fake grass, landscapers estimate it will pay for itself in 2-5 years.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining natural grass is a constant expense; mowing, seeding, fertilizing, weeding, and more. Artificial turf requires a significant investment upfront for installation but costs very little to maintain.
\n\n\n\nOnce installed, synthetic grass requires only a regular hosing down. If you have an incident where part of the turf is damaged, you can replace just a section.
\n\n\n\n1. Does fake grass get warmer than natural grass?
\n\n\n\nYes. Artificial turf gets on average 5-10 degrees hotter than natural grass on a hot day. You can compensate for this by making sure sections of the synthetic lawn are in the shade.
\n\n\n\n2. Is artificial grass flammable?
\n\n\n\nNo! While the blades of fake grass can and will melt from sparks from a fire pit or grill, synthetic turf is not flammable and will not burst into flames. If a small section of the lawn gets damaged by excessive heat, you can easily replace it.
\n\n\n\n3. Can I install artificial grass on top of my existing lawn?
\n\n\n\nNo. In order to have a lawn that drains well when it rains or snows, you should install fake grass over rocks or stones on the ground after removing existing natural grass has been dug out.
\n\n\n\n4. Can I have artificial grass in snowy areas?
\n\n\n\nYes, freezing temperatures and snow don’t affect fake grass. Allow snow to melt naturally and drain through your synthetic lawn’s drainage system.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or energy to install an artificial lawn? We can find a landscaping pro near you to install it for you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Flickr | CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"4 Reasons to Switch to Artificial Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.499267935578331,"src":"/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/1789c/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/107df/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg 320w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/293e9/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg 500w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/f2cbb/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg 800w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/1789c/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg 960w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/a2a79/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/1dd6e/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/67b76/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp 320w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/8df11/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp 500w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/98a65/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp 800w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/1dd6e/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp 960w,\n/static/7523300963d5c0aebf9aa59839b2f51a/7aa54/rsz_3429161484_d0d9ff11fe_b.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Reasons to Switch to Artificial Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Why switch to artificial grass? It will save your time, water, and money in the long run."}}},{"node":{"id":"c27b03e6-fdd2-5ff3-abe2-fe3d9cdf3f61","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Different people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of […]
\n","content":"\nDifferent people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of weeds in grass using traditional, synthetic herbicides and safer methods like homemade recipes and manual tips.
\n\n\n\nWith so many ways to get rid of weeds, you do not have to let them confiscate your property.
\n\n\n\nThis article will also cover weed prevention. Keep reading to discover all the options you have for weed control on your lawn.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/5e95d48d-7801-4974-9206-35bbdb36b571.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nWeeds are unwanted plants growing in lawns, gardens, and fields. They compete with wanted vegetation for nutrients. Like any other plant, they can be categorized by their life cycles and type. Weeds can be annuals, biennials, or perennials. These unwanted plants fall into three types: broadleaf, grassy, and grass-like.
\n\n\n\nBefore you can get rid of weeds, you have to identify what type they are so you can choose an effective control method. Not all herbicides or manual removal methods work for all weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLearn a weed’s life cycle to figure out the best time to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides to control that weed.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year and spread by seed. Summer annuals sprout in the spring. They grow in the summer and fall and die in the winter. Crabgrass and goosegrass are some examples. Winter annuals sprout in late summer and early fall. They die when it gets hotter out, in late spring or early summer. Some examples of winter annual weeds are chickweed and henbit.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a two-year life cycle and germinate by seed. They are not as common in lawns as annual and perennial weeds. Common burdock and wild carrot are two examples.
\n\n\n\nPerennial weeds are also spread by seed and by stolons, bulbs, and rhizomes. These weeds are harder to control than annual weeds because they keep coming back, year after year, unless you remove their entire system of growth, including roots, stolons, and rhizomes. Plantain, thistle, and dandelions are some examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSome chemical treatments are only effective for certain types of weeds or specific weeds within a category. So, you must be able to identify the weeds growing in your grass before you can choose a suitable herbicide.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have broad and flat leaves that are not grass-like. Examples are perennials like thistle, plantain, chickweed, dandelions, and henbit.
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds have blades that look like grass. Crabgrass, quackgrass, annual bluegrass, and foxtail are some common grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nGrass-like weeds resemble grass but do not look as much like it as grassy weeds. The blades are triangular or tubular and shiny. Some examples are nutsedge, wild garlic, and wild onion.
\n\n\n\nOnce you have identified the type of weed in your yard, you can select the best organic herbicide, homemade weed killer recipe, synthetic herbicide, or manual removal method to control that specific weed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic herbicides have ingredients that are safer than the toxic chemicals found in traditional synthetic herbicides. However, you typically will not find these organic herbicides in most kitchens, like you would the options listed in the homemade weed killer section.
\n\n\n\nOrganic weed control products with the following active ingredients can be purchased from stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, and other home and garden suppliers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/4a16ada4-5ea8-4f9b-8641-f6c78f02e677.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Olga Kriger / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal acts as a weed and feed product. It kills weed seeds like a pre-emergent herbicide and contains nitrogen to feed the grass.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Corn gluten meal is only effective at preventing weeds and fertilizing grass when the soil is wet, so give the lawn a light spray of water after using this product unless rain is forecasted later in the day to do it for you.
\n\n\n\nApply it before weed seeds germinate – in early spring for summer annuals and early fall for winter annuals – because corn gluten meal does nothing to kill weeds that have already sprouted. The nitrogen it contains can actually promote the growth of existing weeds.
\n\n\n\nMonthly reapplication may be required for lasting control. Corn gluten meal can kill the seeds of weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, henbit, and more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nVinegar is most effective at killing weeds when the vinegar is 20% acetic acid. The vinegar in your kitchen is only around 5% acetic acid, so you will need a special product called herbicidal vinegar to kill weeds. Herbicidal vinegar is a popular active ingredient in organic post-emergent herbicides. It can kill larger weeds and perennials, but multiple treatments are required.
\n\n\n\nThe acetic acid removes moisture from the plant’s foliage, breaking it down and killing the leaves. A natural surfactant, like yucca extract, is usually included in herbicides to help the vinegar solution stick to the weeds’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Herbicidal vinegar is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills all plants it comes into contact with, including grass. Never apply vinegar all over your lawn unless you’re trying to kill the existing grass so you can start a new lawn from scratch. Instead, spot-treat unwanted plants by placing the solution in a spray bottle and spraying weeds directly. Many commercial herbicides with vinegar come in a ready-to-spray bottle.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Herbicidal vinegar can burn the skin and cause severe eye injuries, such as blindness. Wear protective glasses and long sleeves when applying this product.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can also use ingredients already in your kitchen to make a homemade weed killer for your lawn. These DIY concoctions are safer for pets and humans than the chemicals in synthetic herbicides and much more affordable than organic herbicides you can buy at the store, but they may be less effective than either and may take multiple applications to produce results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"apple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/apple-cider-vinegar-next-to-apples-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: tylim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions are a commonly used DIY weed control method. The following are mixtures you can make using regular kitchen vinegar.
\n\n\n\nWhite Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 gallon of white vinegar
— 1 tablespoon of dish soap
— 1 cup of salt
Apple Cider Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— ½ gallon of apple cider vinegar
— ¼ cup of salt
— 1 teaspoon of dish soap
How to Apply: Mix the ingredients thoroughly and place the solution in a handheld spray bottle. Spray directly to weeds on a sunny day. The sun helps the acetic acid in the vinegar work.
\n\n\n\nThis non-selective DIY weed control will kill most broadleaf weeds and other plants, too, so be careful not to spray it directly on your grass. Solutions with 5% acetic acid may not kill dandelions and other plants with taproots. Use herbicidal vinegar for these types of stubborn weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt can change the pH level of the soil, make it sterile, and hurt plants, including weeds. The downside is that salt will also hurt grass and other landscape plants, so apply it only on the soil around weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: You can start with a 3-to-1 water-to-salt ratio and increase the amount of salt daily until it kills the weeds. Learn more in our in-depth article about using salt to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf preserving soil health is not a concern, apply a mixture with a 1:2 or 1:3 water-to-salt ratio. Add a small amount of liquid dish soap or white vinegar to make the weed killer stronger.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location with icy winters, you may have some rock salt on hand. This is the salt that eats away the ice. You can sprinkle some directly on the weeds or make a solution.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 cup of rock salt
— 1 gallon of hot water
How to Apply: Mix until the salt is dissolved. Pour into a spray bottle. Spray weeds directly. Respray the weeds after five days. Reapply the spray after waiting another five days. Avoid saturating the roots, as this can damage the soil and nearby plants. To protect your grass and ornamentals, water nearby vegetation after applying the salt solution to dilute it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBoil some water and pour it onto the weeds. This option, like all DIY weed killers, will damage your grass and other surrounding plants if it makes contact.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: It is best to place the hot water in a vessel with a spout, like a teapot. Allow it to soak into the plant roots. However, it may not kill the roots, which can result in weed regrowth.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRubbing alcohol kills weeds by draining moisture from the leaves. It will also drain moisture from grass blades and the foliage of other plants, so be sure to spray it directly onto the weeds, and do your best to avoid overspray.
\n\n\n\nRubbing Alcohol Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 2 tablespoons of alcohol
— 1 quart of water
How to Apply: Mix the solution in a spray bottle. Spray weeds individually, covering the leaves as much as possible with the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSynthetic herbicides come as pre-emergent, post-emergent, or as weed and feed products. These herbicides come with precautions as well as do’s and don’ts to be effective and not cause damage. Here are some examples:
\n\n\n\n— Be sure to use these at the right time of year and in the right temperature range. Pre-emergents and post-emergents work at different times, and if applied at the wrong time, they won’t do much at all.
— Synthetic herbicides can injure grass if applied during the wrong stage of your lawn’s growth. For example, pre-emergent products typically should only be applied to turfgrass that has been established for at least 12 months.
— Certain types of herbicides can only be used on certain grass types. Read product labels to find out which grass types it’s safe to use each product on.
— Not all chemicals kill all weeds. Some chemicals only work on broadleaf weeds, while others only work on grassy weeds. Some are even formulated to kill specific weed types. Read the product label carefully before purchasing a herbicide to make sure what you’re getting will actually work for the weeds on your lawn.
— Applying pre-emergents too soon after overseeding the lawn can prevent the new grass seeds from germinating.
Pre-emergent products must be applied before weed seeds start germinating. These herbicides kill weed seeds, but they do not kill grown weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are for preventing future weeds, not getting rid of existing ones.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: Administer in the spring for summer annual weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass. Apply when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees Fahrenheit or above for about 2 days or more.
\n\n\n\nFor winter annual weeds, like annual bluegrass and chickweed, apply in the early fall. The best time is when the soil temperature is approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 3 days.
\n\n\n\nA note on soil temperature: Applying pre-emergents at the right soil temperature is imperative to their success, so use a soil thermometer to get an accurate reading. A soil thermometer costs about $10 or less at a local gardening store or online.
\n\n\n\nSelective vs Non-selective: Most pre-emergent herbicides used for lawn weeds are selective herbicides, meaning they kill specific weed seeds without damaging other plants.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective herbicides, on the other hand, target all plants. To avoid eliminating wanted plants and grass, spot-treat unwanted vegetation by applying non-selective herbicides with a handheld sprayer. These herbicides will also prevent grass from growing, so do not use them when you have recently seeded the lawn or plan to seed the lawn in the near future.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides kill weeds that are sprouting. Weeds that are young and actively growing are the most susceptible to these types of herbicides.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: For perennial weeds and many types of annual weeds, the best time to apply post-emergent products is in the fall or late spring. Treat stubborn perennial weeds with deep root systems in the early spring. Apply when the soil temperature is greater than 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the air temperature is less than 85 degrees.
\n\n\n\nContact vs Systemic: Like pre-emergent chemicals, post-emergents come as selective and non-selective. However, unlike pre-emergents, post-emergents destroy plant parts, such as stems and roots. They do this in different ways.
\n\n\n\nContact-based post-emergent herbicides kill only the plant parts they come into contact with. They destroy parts above the ground, like the leaves. Completely killing weeds with contact herbicides may take many treatments, and you’ll have to manually remove the roots to prevent the weeds from coming back.
\n\n\n\nSystemic post-emergents kill the entire plant regardless of contact with specific parts. The weed absorbs the chemicals, which travel through the vegetation and attack its vascular system. The leaves, stems, and root systems are destroyed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Seed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/seed-spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides that also include lawn fertilizer. If applied at the right time, weed and feed can improve your grass and promote a thriving, green lawn at the same time as removing weeds. A healthy lawn decreases the risk of weed growth in the future.
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed is somewhat controversial because it combines herbicides and fertilizer, two types of chemicals that have different requirements for application. For example, grass needs to be fertilized at specific times to be healthy. If the timing to apply the weed control portion is not the same as the timing for the fertilizer, you can damage the grass. Do not apply weed and feed more than two times a year. Always read the label to know when to apply.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor pre-emergent, post-emergent, and weed and feed chemicals, read the labels to determine if the herbicide controls the weeds you are looking to manage, can be used on your grass type, and at what stage your grass is safe from being damaged by the chemicals.
\n\n\n\nFor weed and feeds, make sure the time of year the herbicide should be used is the same as the time your grass requires fertilization.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPulling weeds by hand or using a tool may be a little more time-consuming than other DIY methods or using synthetic chemicals. It may take more effort, too. The benefit is that manual methods will not release substances that can harm you, your loved ones, or the environment or change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/weeds.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Artur Henryk Bialosiewicz / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThese methods are best when you have a few weeds, and they are young. Wear gloves when removing weeds manually.
\n\n\n\nHow to Pull Weeds By Hand or With a Tool: Water the area or wait until after it rains. The wet ground makes it easier to pull up roots. Dig around the weed with a pointed garden trowel or weeding tool to loosen the soil. Use your hand or tool to pull up as much of the root system as possible so the weed will not grow back.
\n\n\n\nFor some weeds, like crabgrass, only pull by hand or tool when the seed head is closed. If you pull when the head is open, the seeds will spread and replant.
\n\n\n\nFor nutsedge, pull it by hand if the plant has fewer than five leaves. If there are many of these weeds, use a dethatcher or hoe.
\n\n\n\nAs you can see, whether you are applying DIY mixtures, synthetic chemicals, or manual methods, it is important to be able to identify the types of weeds you have so that you use the best weed control solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis device is also called a flame weeder. It is a propane tank with a wand attached that allows you to burn weeds. The flame weeder kills leaves and stem cells but does not kill the roots. It may take multiple treatments to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nObviously, since weed torches use an open flame to kill weeds, they can also harm your grass, or worse, you. Always wear protective clothing and a face covering when using a weed torch, and be very careful to keep the flame away from your grass and other plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare / License
\n\n\n\nThe best way to manage weeds is through prevention by practicing appropriate seasonal lawn care and maintenance. A dense and healthy lawn with grass at an adequate height can crowd out and prevent weed seeds from getting sufficient sun. Weeds will be less likely to sprout because they cannot get the water, nutrients, and space they need to grow.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of grass types: warm-season and cool-season grasses. Each type and the individual grasses within each type determine maintenance requirements, like mowing heights and the amount of fertilizer required. But here are some lawn maintenance practices that can be applied to grass in general for a weed-free lawn:
\n\n\n\nHow long does it take for a salt solution to kill weeds?
\n\n\n\nSalt usually kills weeds in about 10 days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs herbicidal vinegar dangerous?
\n\n\n\nVinegar containing more than 11% acetic acid can burn your skin and cause eye injuries, including blindness. Wear gloves, goggles, and protective clothing when using herbicidal vinegar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any chemicals that can be used on both cool and warm-season grass?
\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a pre-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on most warm and cool-season grass types. The post-emergent chemicals sulfentrazone and halosulfuron are safe for most types of grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFortunately, you have options to get rid of weeds in grass. The goal is not only to stop weeds before they sprout or kill them after sprouting but to have a healthy lawn that outcompetes weeds. For help keeping your lawn as thick and thriving as it can be, reach out to a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn and find out how much a regular lawn maintenance plan would cost for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SchulteProductions / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nSurely there is another way to kill stubborn weeds than using dangerous chemicals or expensive organic herbicides, right? Right. This article discusses how to use salt to kill weeds. It turns out you can get rid of weeds in a way that does not pose a health risk to you and your loved ones. And it’s right in your kitchen cabinet!
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to learn how to kill weeds with salt instead of toxic chemicals like Roundup.
\n\n\nWho knew sodium chloride, aka regular ole table salt, could be so useful in the yard? Even if all you have is the salt you use to season your food, you can use it to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location where it gets icy regularly, you may also keep rock salt, the salt placed on the ground to eat away ice in winter, in the house. It can also be used to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nSolutions more concentrated with salt can disrupt the soil composition and hurt other plants you want to keep. So, a 1-to-2 salt-to-water mixture is best in a flower bed or on your lawn. You can start with a 1:3 salt-to-water ratio and increase the salt content daily until it starts killing the weeds.
\n\n\n\nIn areas where soil health preservation is not important, like cracks in the driveway, a 2:1 or 3:1 salt-to-water ratio can be used to kill the weeds more quickly and with fewer applications.
\n\n\n\nAdd a little white vinegar and liquid dish soap to make the salt solution more effective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nThere are a couple of ways to apply rock salt as a post-emergent weed killer.
\n\n\n\nEasy No-Mix Rock Salt Weed Killer: Sprinkle a little rock salt on the ground at the base of the weed. This is a fast method for controlling weeds sprouting in driveways and walkways and between pavers. The pesky plants will die within about a week and a half. Rock salt will also kill grass and other plants and stop anything from growing where it has been sprinkled, giving it a pre-emergent herbicidal quality. Rain will eventually dissipate the effects.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Spray Recipe: Add 1 cup of rock salt to 1 gallon of hot water. Mix until the salt is dissolved. Put the combination into a spray bottle. This solution is a good way to kill weeds in grass and flower beds because you can spray it directly on weeds and keep it from coming into contact with the plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/using-spray-to-kill-a-weed-in-mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: killerb10 / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve mixed your salt spray, spray it directly onto the weeds you want to kill. Be careful not to get too much salt water on your grass or ornamental plants. After five days, respray the weeds. Wait another five days and reapply. If there is torrential rain, it could dilute the salt, and you may have to reapply it sooner than five days.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t want to saturate your soil with salt water. It can harm the soil and nearby plants. So, after spraying weeds with salt water, thoroughly water the roots of any nearby vegetation to dilute any salt solution that made contact with grass or ornamentals.
\n\n\n\nOverall, a salt spray is best for small-scale weed problems.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe type of salt used is important. It must be rock salt or sodium chloride to kill weeds. Table salt that is iodized or non-iodized will work. Avoid using sea salt and magnesium sulfate, which is also known as Epsom salt.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSalt is so effective at killing weeds that it can kill other plants and disrupt the soil composition so that nothing grows for a few years. As previously stated, this prevention of regrowth gives salt a pre-emergent herbicidal quality.
\n\n\n\nSalt contains acetic acid, which pulls out moisture. The way salt kills weeds is by dehydrating them and disrupting the plant cells’ internal water balance. Weeds absorb this natural weed killer more when water is added to the salt. Salt burns the foliage and prevents the plant from getting sufficient water.
\n\n\n\nWhite vinegar also has acetic acid, so adding a little of it to your salt solution will increase the moisture extraction effects.
\n\n\n\nAdding a little liquid dish soap to your solution can also make the salt more effective because dish soap is a surfactant, meaning it reduces the water’s surface tension, enabling the plant to absorb more of the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"salt](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/salt-being-poured-from-someones-fingers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: taffpix / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt is not toxic like chemical herbicides. However, applying salt as a weed killer does come with advantages and disadvantages. Let’s look at some:
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\n✓ Does not cause health risks that herbicidal chemicals containing ingredients like 2,4-D and glyphosate are linked to, such as endocrine disruption and cancer
✓ Cheaper weed killer than commercial herbicides
✓ Children and pets do not have to stay off the grass to avoid toxic exposure
✓ Effectively kills smaller weeds
✓ Can be used near edible plants without exposing them to dangerous chemicals
Cons:
\n\n\n\n✗ Large quantities can change the pH level of the soil and make it sterile
✗ Can kill nearby plants and grass
✗ May not work on salt-tolerant plants
✗ Not as effective on large plants
✗ Should be used for weed killing on a small scale
Salt is not the only homemade weed killer that can effectively replace toxic chemical herbicides.
\n\n\n\nBoiling water has some of the same benefits and disadvantages as a salt solution. Surrounding plants can be damaged if boiling water splashes on them. On the other hand, boiling water will not disturb the chemical composition of the soil and damage it or prevent future growth.
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions usually include adding salt, but the amount of salt is less. The most effective vinegar mixtures are made with vinegar that is 20% acetic acid, also known as herbicidal vinegar. These weed killers, like salt, can change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\nUltimately, the decision of which homemade weed-killing method to use is up to you. To salt or not to salt? That is the question. All of these non-toxic herbicides are safer for pets and humans than their commercial herbicide counterparts.
\n\n\n\nIt typically takes about 10 days for a salt and water solution to kill existing weeds.
Practicing good lawn care management regularly will help prevent weeds in the first place. It is difficult for unwanted plants to sprout in a well-kept lawn or garden. Here are some tips for preventing weeds in your landscape:
● Use mulch in gardens and on the lawn. Mulch stops weed growth. Apply organic mulch to decrease weed germination. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn after mowing is a natural way to fertilize the grass and suppress weeds. However, leaving clippings when you have lawn weeds will spread the seeds.
● Check for weeds regularly so you can eliminate them when they are young and few.
● Plant grass seed adapted to your area, which will thrive in your climate and more easily outcompete local weeds.
● Mow, water, and fertilize the grass as recommended for your grass type. See recommendations for cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses in our guides.
● Treat the lawn for diseases and insects to keep the grass healthy and weed-resistant.
● Pull up weeds with a tool or by hand and remove the taproot to prevent regrowth.
● Plant ground cover. These ornamentals spread quickly, providing a dense carpet that smothers and suppresses weeds.
Pulling weeds by hand or with a tool is an eco-friendly method that doesn’t affect the soil or other plants. It is easier to manage weeds this way when there are only a few of them and they are young. Wet the soil to remove weeds more easily. Ensure you have removed the entire root system to prevent regrowth.
Having a way to manage weeds that is cheaper and more convenient than commercial herbicides is nice. Having a way to manage weeds that is safer for your family, fur babies, and the environment is priceless. Salt is both!
\n\n\n\n
But if you need a break from DIY landscape maintenance, there is a way you can have your cake and eat it, too. Enjoy a beautiful, thriving yard and some leisure time by connecting with qualified lawn care professionals in your area to do all the work while you chill.
Main Photo Credit: ac_bnphotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/107df/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/293e9/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/f2cbb/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/c26c2/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/67b76/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/8df11/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/98a65/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/3cc96/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Did you know you have an ingredient in your kitchen that can kill weeds? Learn how to use salt to kill weeds instead of dangerous herbicides."}}},{"node":{"id":"94828c1f-7d70-5198-9193-362b04bf9272","slug":"what-to-do-after-aerating-lawn","path":"/blog/what-to-do-after-aerating-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"After completing the aeration process, your lawn is primed for optimal growth. Knowing the proper post-aeration care is essential to maximize its benefits. In this article, we’ll walk you through pro tips on what to do after aerating your lawn, including watering, overseeding, and fertilizing. Let’s dive into the article and uncover the secrets to […]
\n","content":"\nAfter completing the aeration process, your lawn is primed for optimal growth. Knowing the proper post-aeration care is essential to maximize its benefits. In this article, we’ll walk you through pro tips on what to do after aerating your lawn, including watering, overseeding, and fertilizing.
\n\n\n\nLet’s dive into the article and uncover the secrets to post-aeration success!
\n\n\n![\"sprinkler](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Sprinkler.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Lya_Cattel / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAfter aerating your grass, it is crucial to water it properly. Aim to water your lawn within 24 to 48 hours after aeration. The newly created holes in the soil allow water to penetrate deeper, reaching the grassroots more effectively. Watering at this time helps the roots establish and take advantage of the improved soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nKeep the soil consistently moist, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to water waste and shallow root growth. Use sprinklers or a soaker hose to distribute water across your yard uniformly.
\n\n\n\nWater in the early morning before 10 a.m. or late afternoon to reduce evaporation and allow grass blades to dry before dark, lowering the risk of lawn disease. Regularly check the soil moisture level and alter your watering schedule accordingly.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/overseed-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Elena Photo / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn provides the ideal environment for overseeding. Overseeding involves putting new grass seed over an existing lawn to fill in thin or bare spots and increase overall density. Choose a quality seed combination that fits your type of grass, or get advice from a local lawn care professional.
\n\n\n\nRake the soil lightly before overseeding to remove the top layer for optimal seed-to-soil contact. Spread the grass seed uniformly. Then rake the area lightly after seeding to cover the seeds with a thin coating of soil. Maintain continuous moisture in newly sown areas by watering daily until the seeds germinate and establish.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will be better able to absorb nutrients after aeration. Aim to fertilize within a few days of aerating, as the newly created holes allow the nutrients to reach the grassroots more efficiently.
\n\n\n\nA high-quality fertilizer can supply the food required for maximum growth. Look for a fertilizer with a balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) ratio appropriate for your lawn’s grass type.
\n\n\n\nRead our guide on How to Choose the Lawn Fertilizer to make the right choice for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nTiming of fertilizer applications according to the grass species in your lawn is also important. Read our guide on When and How to Fertilize your Lawn for a detailed view.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: To avoid overfertilization, follow the recommendations on the fertilizer package for the recommended application rate and frequency. Consider using a slow-release fertilizer, which releases nutrients gradually over time and reduces the danger of fertilizer burn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/pulled-weeds-from-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Cleardesign1 / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nKeep a watchful eye out for common lawn weeds and promptly address any unwanted invaders. Aeration creates openings in the soil, making it easier for weed seeds to germinate. Use weed control methods like hand-pulling, spot-treatment with herbicides, or natural weed control options.
\n\n\n\nConsider using pre-emergent herbicides in the spring and fall to control stubborn weeds from sprouting. These products form a layer on the soil’s surface that prevents weeds from developing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"dog](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/749de019-9871-4cb0-b5d1-b034aea7bffa.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bk_Kang / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nLimiting foot traffic and keeping pets away from the treated areas immediately after aerating your grass is critical. The holes left by aeration require time to heal, allowing the grass to grow strong, deep roots. Walking or playing on the grass too soon after aeration might disrupt root growth, reducing the overall benefits of aeration.
\n\n\n\nTo avoid unintentional foot traffic, consider installing a small temporary fence or posting signage to draw attention to newly aerated areas. Redirect your pets to different parts of the yard or keep them on a leash until the grass has recovered completely. You can gradually reinstate regular foot traffic and pet activities after a week or so once the grass has had time to regrow.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-14.jpg\")
Photo Credit: KathrynHatashitaLee / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with a consistent lawn maintenance program is critical for your aerated lawn’s long-term health and attractiveness. Your lawn care routine should include not only proper watering and fertilization but also mowing at the right height for your grass type, soil testing at least every few years, clearing debris and thatch, and inspecting for disease regularly.
\n\n\n\nSet your mower to the proper height for your grass type once it reaches a height of 4 inches after aeration. Only cut up to one-third of the grass’s length in a single mowing session. This promotes healthy root growth and protects the grass from stress. The ideal mowing height and frequency for the most common grasses are listed in the table below:
\n\n\n\n| Grass Species | Mowing Height (inches) | Mowing Frequency (times per week) |
| Zoysia | 1-2 | 1-2 |
| St. Augustine | 3.5-4 | 1-2 |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2.5-3.5 | 1 |
| Fine fescue | 2.5-4 | 1-2 |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 | 1-2 |
| Perennial ryegrass | 1.5-2.5 | 1 |
| Bermuda | 1.5-2.5 | 1-2 |
Remove fallen leaves, twigs, and other debris from the lawn as soon as possible since they can suffocate the grass and provide a breeding ground for pests and fungal diseases.
\n\n\n\nIn terms of bugs, keep an eye out for indicators of infestation, such as brown patches or chewed grass blades. Treat any pest problems with appropriate insecticides or, if necessary, seek expert help.
\n\n\n\nTest your soil at least once every three years to determine its acidity or alkalinity level. The pH of the soil influences the availability of nutrients to the grass. If the pH of your lawn is too high or too low, consider adding lime to raise it or sulfur to lower it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow soon can I mow my lawn after aerating?
\n\n\n\nIt is best to wait a few days after aerating before mowing your lawn. It gives the grass time to recuperate and the soil time to settle. If the grass has grown too long, you can softly trim it, taking care not to cut too low and stress the grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nShould I rake up the plugs of soil that aeration has left on the lawn?
\n\n\n\nNo, you don’t have to remove the soil plugs from your lawn. If you leave them out, they will gradually break down into the soil, adding nutrients and organic matter that will help your grass in the long run.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat are the different methods of lawn aeration?
\n\n\n\nTwo standard methods for lawn aeration are spike aeration, which pokes holes in the soil, and core aeration, which removes 2 to 3-inch plugs of soil. Both methods offer benefits, but core aeration is generally preferred for better results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is the right time to aerate my lawn?
\n\n\n\nIt is best advised to aerate a cool-season lawn in fall and a warm-season lawn in late spring to early summer. For more detailed information, visit our article When and How to Aerate Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow long will the advantages of aeration last?
\n\n\n\nAeration can provide benefits for several months, but it is not permanent. Aeration should be done regularly, at least once every two or three years, to keep the soil loose. The frequency might vary depending on soil compaction, grass type, and general soil condition.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawn aeration boosts nutrient absorption and encourages healthy root growth by reducing soil compaction. Sometimes homeowners might need help figuring out what to do after aerating the lawn. But by reviewing this article, you can figure it out and plan ahead. If you are still trying to decide whether to do the post-aeration chores on your own, you can ask for professional advice.
\n\n\n\nContact a local lawn care service provider and get help to ensure your lawn thrives and remains lush after you aerate it.
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