![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/pittsburgh-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
John Egan On chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth. Among the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating […]
\n","content":"\nJohn Egan
\n\n\n\nOn chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth.
\n\n\n\nAmong the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating fuel more than Pittsburgh, PA.
\n\n\n\nA WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shows 173 of every 100,000 occupied housing units in the Pittsburgh area rely on coal or coke for heating fuel. By comparison, 108 of every 100,000 occupied households across the country depend on coal or coke to generate heat.
\n\n\n\nLike Pittsburgh, six of the seven other metro areas on our list are in the Northeast, where coal historically has been more popular as a heating source than in other parts of the country.
\n\n\n\nCertainly, the total number of occupied U.S. households where you’d find a coal-burning stove is tiny — just one-tenth of 1 percent, or a little over 128,500 households. Of those households, an estimated 1,939 are in the Pittsburgh metro area, according to our analysis of data from the Census Bureau’s 2013-2017 American Community Survey. The annual survey takes the pulse of America in terms of demographic and housing characteristics.
\n\n\n\nAnyone who lives in or grew up in Pennsylvania undoubtedly knows why coal remains a source of heat for more than 1,900 households in the Pittsburgh area.
\n\n\n\nIn 2017, Pennsylvania ranked third among the country’s top coal-producing states, behind Wyoming and West Virginia, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA). That year, Pennsylvania mined 49.1 tons of coal, or 6 percent of the country’s total coal output.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, coal production in the U.S. has fallen off as utility companies have switched to natural gas, a cheaper source of energy, or to wind and solar power, which, unlike coal, are renewable sources of energy. Nationwide coal production slipped nearly 3 percent in 2018 from the previous year, according to EIA.
\n\n\n\nThe Keystone Stone, particularly the Pittsburgh area, enjoys a centuries-old relationship with coal. Mining of bituminous (or “soft”) coal in Pennsylvania dates back to the late 1700s. In Pennsylvania, bituminous coal first was mined in Mount Washington — aka “Coal Hill” — just across the Monongahela River from Pittsburgh, according to the state Department of Environmental Protection.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, industrial plants around the state, including steel factories in the Pittsburgh area, have consumed much of the coal mined in Pennsylvania.
\n\n\n\nBeginning with Pittsburgh, here’s our list of the 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Coal-Burning Stoves. (Or, put another way, the 8 Major Metro Areas Where Frosty the Snowman Should Be Afraid of Losing His Two Eyes Made Out of Coal.)
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units: 1,118,610
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,939
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 173
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/hartford-ct-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 512,877
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 629
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 123
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/philly-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C672&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 2,469,188
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 2,637
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 107
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cleveland-oh-skyline.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 959,615
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,013
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 106
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/providence-ri-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 700,220
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 582
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 83
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/boston-ma-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 1,930,177
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,204
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 62
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/nyc-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 7,916,318
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 4,450
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 56
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Buffalo-NY-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C736&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 525,820
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 284
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 54
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
\n","title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg","srcSet":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/107df/burning-coals.jpg 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/293e9/burning-coals.jpg 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/f2cbb/burning-coals.jpg 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/a2a79/burning-coals.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/67b76/burning-coals.webp 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/8df11/burning-coals.webp 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/98a65/burning-coals.webp 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/7aa54/burning-coals.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"240ef13d-10c0-55ef-a3ea-abcbbb9a9bc7","slug":"lawn-fertilizer-schedule","path":"/blog/lawn-fertilizer-schedule/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Fertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the […]
\n","content":"\nFertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the benefits of fertilization and enhance your grass’s growth.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide, we’ll walk you through developing the best fertilization schedule for your grass type’s specific needs. Let’s get started!
\n\n\n\nLearn about:
\n\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDifferent grass species have different development patterns, so you must customize your fertilization schedule accordingly. Always apply fertilizer during your grass’s active growth period and never when it’s dormant. Dormant grass cannot absorb nutrients, so any fertilizer you apply during dormancy goes straight to the weeds lurking in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses and warm-season grasses grow at different times of the year, so they require different fertilization schedules, which you will find below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, do best in regions with cold winters and mild summers. They typically grow in the northern third of the US and somewhat in the central portion of the country, known as the transition zone.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses benefit from a fertilization schedule that includes the following applications:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring, around late March and early April, is an ideal time to apply the first round of fertilizer as cool-season grasses emerge from winter dormancy. Choose a fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen for speedy green-up and healthy root development. Aim for a balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio to assist overall growth and stress tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSummer: Cool-season grasses can experience obstacles such as heat stress and restricted water supply during the hot summer months. To combat drought stress, adjust your watering plan and avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat. Consider using a light application of a slow-release or organic-based fertilizer with low nitrogen content in late summer, as the growth period might kick start. If your grass goes dormant and turns brown in summer, do not apply fertilizer until it greens up again.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As temperatures decrease in the early fall, cool-season grasses enter the period of their most vigorous growth. It is an ideal time for a proper round of fertilization. Use a higher potassium content fertilizer to boost root growth and improve winter hardiness and disease resistance. A balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio is still necessary to promote healthy growth during the growing season and prepare the grass for winter.
\n\n\n\nLate Fall: Apply a winterizing fertilizer developed specifically for cool-season grasses in late fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost in your area, around late October or early November. These fertilizers contain a higher potassium content, which helps to strengthen the grass’s cell walls and increase its resistance to harsh winter conditions. Winterizing fertilizers also aid in the early spring green-up of grass when it emerges from dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass prefer warmer temperatures and grow most actively in spring and summer. They begin to slow their growth in fall when the temperatures drop, and they enter winter dormancy earlier than cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer hot summers, warm-season grasses grow mostly in the South. They can also grow in the transition zone, but they typically struggle in any place with severe winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best times to apply lawn fertilizer for warm-season grasses are the following:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring is an excellent time for the first round of fertilization since warm-season grasses emerge from dormancy and begin their active growth phase. To stimulate vigorous growth, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Look for a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer that consistently supplies nutrients over time, assuring the grass’s continuous nourishment.
\n\n\n\nLate Spring/Early Summer: Warm-season grasses grow steadily throughout the summer and may require ample fertilizing to remain lush. However, it is important to be cautious when fertilizing during this time. High temperatures and drought can stress the grass, leaving it more vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To reduce the chance of damage throughout the hot summer, use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer around the end of May or the beginning of June when the heat isn’t too extreme yet.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As summer gives way to fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth. A round of fertilizer application is best done in the early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Use a fertilizer with a slightly greater potassium content to increase root growth and improve the grass’s winter hardiness. This application will aid in the recovery of the grass from any summer pressures and prepare it for the cooler months ahead.
\n\n\n\nDo not fertilize warm-season grass in late fall, as it is either preparing to enter winter dormancy or has already gone dormant.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the best lawn fertilizer practices for cool-season and warm-season grass types in our guide: When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe amount of fertilizer your grass needs can affect how many times you fertilize throughout the year. Each grass type has its own nutrient requirements, so it’s important to identify your grass type before trying to make a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nFind the proper amount of nitrogen fertilizer recommended for your grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Application Rate Per Year |
| Bermudagrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Zoysiagrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Centipedegrass | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Fine fescue | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Ryegrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
You should never apply more than 1 pound of nitrogen to your lawn at one time. So, if your grass type requires 2 pounds of nitrogen every year, you should spread the fertilizer across at least two applications and possibly more applications of less than 1 pound. If your grass type requires 4 pounds of nitrogen annually, you will need to spread it out across four applications of 1 pound each. Don’t fertilize your lawn more than four times a year.
\n\n\n\nBase the timing of these applications on the cool-season and warm-season lawn fertilization schedules above.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-19.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Galeanu Mihai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil testing is a valuable tool for optimizing your fertilizer schedule. When it comes to lawn fertilization, more than a one-size-fits-all strategy is needed. Soil testing enables you to identify nutrient deficits or excesses in your soil. It identifies the nutrients your lawn requires for its best growth, allowing you to fine-tune fertilizer selection and application.
\n\n\n\nTo perform a soil test, buy a DIY soil testing kit or send a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office for a more in-depth test.
\n\n\n\nThe soil test results provide essential information regarding your soil’s nutrient level. You’ll get a detailed report outlining the levels of primary nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, as well as secondary and micronutrients. The report also contains the pH level of your soil (ideally between 6.0 and 6.5), which is critical for nutrient availability at the grassroots.
\n\n\n\nBased on your soil test results, you can choose the right fertilizer for your grass, which will make your fertilization schedule even more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Close-up-of-Female-Gardeners-Hand-with-Iron-Bucket-of-Granular-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Valerii Honcharuk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelecting the right fertilizer for your lawn can significantly impact its overall health and look. There are a few crucial aspects to consider while choosing the right fertilizer, including:
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about these factors and how they affect your lawn, see our guide to choosing lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe type of fertilizer you select can impact your fertilization schedule. For instance, immediate-release fertilizers only remain in the soil for 4-6 weeks, so they will need to be applied more often for sustained results, while granular fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks and will require fewer applications throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is generally recommended that you water your lawn lightly after fertilizing. Watering aids in dissolving fertilizer granules, allowing nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the grassroots. However, be careful not to overwater, which might wash out nutrients or lead to runoff. Plan to fertilize when the weather forecast is clear of heavy rainfall for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilizing during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, is generally discouraged. Fertilizing during this time may result in nutrient runoff and waste. It can also encourage weeds to take over your yard while your grass is not growing. Not to mention, it’s a waste of your time, energy, and money.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers have longer-lasting effects on your soil by far. For one, they take longer to break down into the soil, which means nutrients are released gradually over time instead of all at once. The organic content in these fertilizers also improves the soil’s texture and overall health, whereas synthetic fertilizers can actually damage the soil and kill important microorganisms.
\n\n\n\nThe tradeoff is that organic fertilizers take longer to show visible results in your grass, while synthetic fertilizers can offer a quick green-up and boost of growth. So, you have to decide if you’re more concerned about the long-term or the short-term benefits.
\n\n\n\nSee our guide to organic lawn fertilizers to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCaring for your lawn means providing the appropriate nutrients at the right time. A well-planned fertilization schedule ensures your grass receives the nutrients it requires all year, supporting healthy growth and vivid greenery.
\n\n\n\nAre you tired of doing all this on your own? Don’t worry; we are here to help. Connect with a local lawn care pro through WikiLawn to help you establish a healthy, bright lawn that will make your neighbors envious.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5463917525773196,"src":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/107df/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/293e9/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/f2cbb/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/c26c2/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/67b76/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/8df11/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/98a65/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/3cc96/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is the right time to fertilize your lawn? Learn all you need to know from our lawn fertilizer schedule, including when and how much to fertilize."}}},{"node":{"id":"afb7a02b-f30f-54ce-9774-c36650cc3855","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-chinch-bugs","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-chinch-bugs/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Have you noticed dry or dead spots of grass on your lawn? Are you finding yellow patches that turn brown even though your grass is getting plenty of sun and water? Then you may need to know how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn. You can see the tiny black and white […]
\n","content":"\nHave you noticed dry or dead spots of grass on your lawn? Are you finding yellow patches that turn brown even though your grass is getting plenty of sun and water? Then you may need to know how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can see the tiny black and white (or sometimes reddish-brown) bugs sucking the sap out of your lawn. While they don’t bite people, chinch bugs sometimes mistake hair follicles for blades of grass. That’s when you’ll find yourself scratching your head, trying to figure out how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nAdult chinch bugs are less than half an inch long with dark red or black bodies and white wings or clear wings with frosty white tips. Baby chinch bugs or nymphs are much smaller and sometimes orange. They use their pointy mouths or proboscis like a straw to suck the life out of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are 27 varieties of chinch bugs, four of which are common to parts of the United States. The most common chinch bug (blissus leucopterus) infests lawns nationwide, while the southern chinch bug prefers St. Augustinegrass commonly found in Texas and Florida.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re not sure if the brown patches in your yard are caused by chinch bugs or drought, check for additional signs:
\n\n\n\nChinch bug infestations can be tough to manage. Unlike some pests, they don’t die off in the cold and instead overwinter in your shrubs, bushes, and in the soil. These insects are resistant to many common pesticides. You may have to try several because your grass will not recover on its own.
\n\n\n\nChemical pesticides can be a danger for pets. So keep cats and dogs safe by following the directions on the label and keeping them out of the area until the pesticides dry.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14598977033_b78e3f956c_c.jpg\")
The easiest way to prevent chinch bugs and other pests is by maintaining good lawn care practices. Maintaining a healthy lawn keeps the chinch bugs and other lawn-destroying insects away.
\n\n\n\nRegular maintenance is just as important when trying to help your lawn recover from chinch bug damage. You’ll need to add a few extra steps to repair the lawn damage.
\n\n\n\nWhen the DIY methods and chemical pesticides fail to get rid of the chinch bug problems, it’s time to call in a lawn care professional, not only to get rid of the pests, but to repair the damage and help restore your dream lawn.
\n\n\n\nNeem oil and insecticidal soaps like Garden Safe and Safe work well. Pesticides containing carbaryl or pyrethroid such as Sevin and Orto Bugclear will also kill chinch bugs.
Yes. Fire ants, spiders, ear wigs, and wasps will help control the chinch bug population in your yard.
In the early afternoon is when you’re more likely to spot chinch bugs on your lawn.
Chinch bugs like hot, drought-like conditions and soil high in nitrogen.
Chinch bugs can infest most grass types, but St. Augustinegrass is their favorite.
Yes. Chinch bugs mistake hair follicles for blades of grass and they will often burrow under a dog’s fur, and insert their sharp mouthparts into the animal’s skin. While this isn’t life-threatening, it does cause uncomfortable itching.
Main photo credit: Jacinta Lluch Valero | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/107df/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/293e9/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/f2cbb/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/c26c2/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/67b76/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/8df11/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/98a65/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/3cc96/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Getting rid of chinch bugs is a cinch if you follow our simple steps to stop the invading pests from setting up camp in your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"ba45de85-91e3-5ed4-bcd4-3024564b646a","slug":"lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving","path":"/blog/lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.","name":"Tina Hill","id":"05b33636-8a93-5cbe-a32e-4d72278ff06f","path":"/author/tina-hill/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f78fd5fd50db11dcceecbeb20de206e?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2022","excerpt":"A maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are […]
\n","content":"\nA maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are some tips to lawn mowing and maintenance in North Texas.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe key here is not to “scalp” your grass, meaning cut it too short. Scalping lets precious water evaporate more quickly in the Texas heat. It also stresses your grass, leaving it vulnerable to diseases and pests. Your lawn is most likely a warm-season variety like St. Augustinegrass, Zoysia grass, buffalograss or Bermudagrass. Your proper grass length depends on the variety you have.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend St. Augustine be cut 2 to 2.5 inches tall. The recommended height for common Bermuda is 1.25 to 1.5 inches tall. Zoysias should be between 2 to 3 inches tall, and buffalograss is the longest, with a recommended height of 3 to 4 inches. Look to mow the lawn about once a week during the hot season. Pro tip: mow in a different direction each time. This helps the blades of the grass stand up straight and prevent ruts. The grass will most likely be dormant from about November to early March.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/SPQeqvQ6uMk7cMElBDUFbYM1ustCr3YbH-zwCAxan81fLDKrx77uFe8taJ0ZYyDkBxGA-WdL7l9txXMvtPLIQJFTefe5HefL-zb1DKtCU59NI1FmHe7QwhTw1ifQE8LXcg\")
Don’t bag those clippings. The clippings add vital nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. As long as you mow at the proper height, the clippings will break down quickly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_11pixnio-46676-6144x4096-1.jpg\")
Sharpen the blades, change the oil and spark plugs once a year. Dull blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it, leaving it susceptible to disease and pests.
\n\n\n\nSome make a ritual out of applying weed and feed to their lawns every Super Bowl Sunday in February. This counts as “early spring” in Texas, and the grass is beginning to green up. That’s when you need to fertilize your lawn. The rule of thumb is generally between February and April. This is also the time to stop weeds in their tracks — before they ever get a firm root in your yard. You can also find weed and feed mixtures that contain fire ant killer, to keep the nasty little insects from digging up mounds of dirt in your lawn and biting you.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RlVQn9EJ-aojgCh7tRmrSbz18RBq6WSySSIjeOIaXKZFzGZ4oiV4yo0xVM45-4P97x6HMDcARpfMYt1TUuGapaqJ6uuYWqK2Zka5OdU4a9HHakvPIYiWNdxHJCQKg16tKA\")
Your lawn needs a good long drink every five to ten days, generally. Keep that in mind before you overwater the grass. Also, your city probably has ordinances or recommendations on what days you can water and what time. Use your sprinkler two times a week, and don’t water between 10 am and 6 pm. In most cases, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and hand watering are allowed any day of the week. Ideally, you water early in the morning — giving your grass a good drink of water, but allowing the droplets on the blades to evaporate over the daytime hours. This lowers your lawn’s risk of fungus problems.
The key to a lush, green lawn in north Texas is consistency over the course of the long, hot growing season. If you begin tending to it on a regular basis when it first begins to green, and maintain it through the triple-digit temperatures of the summer, and into the fall, it will reward you with beautiful, emerald green grass.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a cool-season grass survive in north Texas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue will grow better in fall and winter, but they will survive a north Texas summer. Cool-season grasses are not recommended further south where it gets much warmer.
\n\n\n\n2. Are some grass types more shade-tolerant than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass are the most shade tolerant warm season grasses for the Dallas area.
\n\n\n\n3. Is it possible to keep a green lawn year-round in Dallas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Southern blue is a hybrid turf that mixes Texas bluegrass with Kentucky bluegrass and stays green even in winter. This cool-season grass is also drought-resistant and does well in the shade. Southern blue is not recommended by south Texas.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNeed help mowing and maintaining your lawn? We can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n","title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.6204379562043796,"src":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg","srcSet":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/107df/lawn-mowing.jpg 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/293e9/lawn-mowing.jpg 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg 666w","srcWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/67b76/lawn-mowing.webp 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/8df11/lawn-mowing.webp 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp 666w","sizes":"(max-width: 666px) 100vw, 666px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"A beautiful lawn in DFW doesn't just happen. We offer tips on lawn mowing and maintenance in Dallas-Plano and Irving to help you keep your lawn thrivinging."}}},{"node":{"id":"ff5060d1-0b95-5566-8d4f-fdefd13e6b51","slug":"how-to-grow-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-grow-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Looking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need! Bahiagrass […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need!
\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: With a moderate to high growth rate, it needs frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nInsect pest tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown along the Gulf Coast and in the Southeastern U.S. It does best in acidic soils and is not the best grass if your soil is naturally alkaline. It doesn’t tolerate salt water well.
\n\n\n\nWhile this may come as a surprise to many, Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) is used mainly as a pasture grass and for hay production across the southeastern United States. However, selected varieties—Argentine and Pensacola, especially—work well as turfgrass species for lawns. Behind St. Augustinegrass, Bahia is the second most common turfgrass across much of the southeastern United States, and for a good reason.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is well-adapted to low-fertility soils and is excellent for homeowners wanting a low-maintenance, low-input lawn. It puts down a deep root system that spreads via underground rhizomes. This root system makes it great for areas prone to drought or lawns without an irrigation system. However, Bahia doesn’t form the same dense carpet as other warm-season grasses that spread using above-ground stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Bahiagrass is not the best choice for every Southern lawn, but it is ideal in many situations, especially if you have many acres of property to cover.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low water needs
\n\n\n\n✓ Low fertilizer requirements
\n\n\n\n✓ Lower maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\n✓ Deep root system
\n\n\n\n✓ Does well in sandy and other low-fertility soils
\n\n\n\n✓ Minimal insect and disease problems
\n\n\n\n✓ Thatch is generally not a concern
\n\n\n\n✓ Establishes from seed or sod
\n\n\n\n✗ Does not form a dense carpet
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed head stems dull mower blades quickly
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed heads need regular mowing, or they become an eyesore
\n\n\n\n✗ Only a few varieties are available for home lawns
\n\n\n\n✗ Open growth habit leaves space for weeds to grow
\n\n\n\nIf you’re considering switching your lawn to Bahiagrass or using it to start grass at a fresh build, you have the option of seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, some crucial differences between the two methods must be considered when choosing.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no denying that planting grass from seed is by far the cheaper of the two options and is much easier labor-wise to “install.” For homeowners with economic constraints, this makes seeding attractive. On the flip side, if you opt for seeding, the grass needs considerably more babysitting during the establishment process and takes quite a bit of time to grow into a beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod comes with a pretty hefty price tag, and the process is back-breaking – even more so for Bahiagrass sod, as it tends to fall apart unless you spend extra money for sod with a netting material to hold it together. That being said, once you get it down, you automatically have a nice green lawn, and it doesn’t take micromanaging to get it established like seeding does.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Depending on where you purchase seed from, expect to pay $100-$110 for a 25 lb bag of Pensacola Bahiagrass seed.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: A 400-square-foot pallet of Bahiagrass sod costs approximately $113 to $134.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Getting grass seed down in late spring or early summer is best. Warm-season grasses like Bahia grow the most when the air temperatures hit a whopping 85 to 95°F, so you want to plant just before temps climb this high. This helps your grass establish as quickly as possible, putting down a sound root system so it is well-prepared to go dormant and survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nNote: Not all grass seeds you scatter will germinate; some Bahiagrass seeds lay dormant and may sprout later in the season.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: Sod is a little more forgiving timing-wise and can be put down whenever you have time to tackle the project. However! You’ll have a much easier time getting it established if you do it in the spring or fall when temperatures are more moderate.
\n\n\n\nSince Bahia grows a little more sparsely than other turfgrasses, you can overseed your lawn annually with more Bahiagrass seed to keep it as thick as possible. Remember that no matter what you do, it will never grow as thick as Zoysia or other turfs with dense growth habits.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Yes, I’ve said that Bahiagrass is low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need your attention at all. Here are the basic rules of Bahiagrass lawn maintenance to follow.
\n\n\n\nIt was mentioned that Bahiagrass is fantastic for large acres and properties without irrigation. This doesn’t mean it will stay green regardless of how little or how much water it gets.
\n\n\n\nWhen you’re growing Bahiagrass without irrigation, it will go into a state of dormancy and turn brown during long periods of drought. Once the rain returns, the grass greens back up and resumes growing. In climates such as Florida, where it rains most days, you may not ever need to give a Bahia lawn supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nIf you can water your lawn, it’s best to keep an eye on it and watch for signs it needs water. You’ll see folded grass blades, a color change, and footprints will remain on the grass after you walk across it. So, if you see these things, turn on the sprinklers and give your grass one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water to get it green and perky.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer specifics will depend on the soil in your yard and how you’ve managed it before. You need to account for soil type, organic matter content, if you’ve mulched clippings back into the lawn, etc. To get an exact recommendation, perform a soil test before seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nAs a general rule of thumb, apply 1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of yard annually.
\n\n\n\nAlways check local guidelines for lawn fertilizer blackout dates or ordinances regarding its application.
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer, Bahia is known for its characteristic Y-shaped, two- or three-branched seed heads. To keep them in check and your grass looking nice, expect to mow your lawn every one to two weeks. During the hottest parts of summer, you may need to cut it a little more frequently unless you don’t mind the seed heads, but you’ll want to keep your grass 3 to 4 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nThe seed head stems are tough on mower blades, so you may need to sharpen them more frequently than with other grasses. Keeping mower blades sharp will help give you an excellent crisp cut when you mow instead of tearing the tops of the grass off with dull mower blades.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a Bahiagrass lawn weed-free is a challenge since Bahia doesn’t grow as thick or dense as some grass types. Weeds love to come in and reside in those bare spots and compete with your grass for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo do this, keep your grass mowed to the proper height, irrigate when you see signs of drought stress, and fertilize throughout the growing season. You can also consider periodically overseeding to help fill in some bare spots where the weeds like to hang out.
\n\n\n\nWhen proper lawn management doesn’t succeed in weed control, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are available in both chemical and organic formulations. Just stay away from products containing atrazine and metsulfuron because they damage Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, Bahia lawns experience very few insect and disease problems. Watch for mole crickets, Bahiagrass billbugs, and fall armyworms, as they may cause issues in Bahiagrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nThe two classifications of turfgrass are distinguished by where they have adapted to grow the best. Warm-season grasses prefer hot summers and mild winters and grow in the South. Cool-season grasses like temperate summers and can tolerate brutal winters; they grow mainly in the northern United States.
Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass.
Bahiagrass is typically grown on sandy soils in coastal areas, so there isn’t a need to aerate, as these soils don’t compact. Also, it isn’t a grass type that develops a lot of thatch, so dethatching isn’t usually necessary.
Sometimes, when it’s growing where it isn’t wanted, Bahiagrass is considered a weed rather than a turfgrass. If Bahiagrass is a weed in your book, and it’s overrunning your lawn, see our guide on how to get rid of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nIf you think a Bahiagrass lawn is a good fit for your landscape, contact one of our highly-qualified local lawn professionals. They can help get your lawn started or care for your established turf, giving you more time to spend doing what matters most to you – without sacrificing the quality of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/107df/Bahiagrass.jpg 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/293e9/Bahiagrass.jpg 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/f2cbb/Bahiagrass.jpg 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/c26c2/Bahiagrass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/67b76/Bahiagrass.webp 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/8df11/Bahiagrass.webp 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/98a65/Bahiagrass.webp 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/3cc96/Bahiagrass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Bahiagrass is a great, low-maintenance grass for Southern lawns with sandy soils. We have all the information you need if you’re looking to grow it!"}}},{"node":{"id":"d85de7c5-0eb0-57b5-97c4-327bb343fd1c","slug":"how-to-keep-water-from-pooling-in-yard","path":"/blog/how-to-keep-water-from-pooling-in-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 17th, 2022","excerpt":"Does your yard look more like a lake than a lawn? You could have some serious drainage issues. We’ll tell you what’s causing the problem and how to keep water from pooling in your yard. Contents: Why is Water Pooling in Your Yard? (And How to Fix It) How to Redirect Pooling Water FAQ About […]
\n","content":"\nDoes your yard look more like a lake than a lawn? You could have some serious drainage issues. We’ll tell you what’s causing the problem and how to keep water from pooling in your yard.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nTo stop water from pooling in your yard, you have to find the cause. Here are the most common causes of standing water and what you can do to correct them.
\n\n\n\nToo much water inhibits the growth of grassroots and suffocates your lawn. Even worse? Standing water can cause an imbalance in the soil and may lead to grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the way you water your lawn.
\n\n\n\nClogged gutters cause water to back up and overflow, sending large amounts of water onto your lawn all at once.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Clean out downspouts and gutters in the fall and spring to allow water to flow.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a layer of organic material that builds up around the base of your grass. Warm weather causes thick thatch to dry out and repel the water, so the ground can no longer absorb it.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Get rid of heavy thatch using a thatching rake, a power rake, or even a garden rake. Go a step further by aerating your lawn. This will break up the compacted soil and allow your lawn to absorb more water.
\n\n\n\nIf your land doesn’t slope properly, water may collect on your lawn faster than it can drain. Improper grading and poor drainage will make the low spots in your yard even worse with each rainfall.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Regrade your lawn so it slopes away from your house.
\n\n\n\nSoil composed of thick clay is less absorbent and causes drainage problems.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the makeup of your soil.
\n\n\n\nWater tables can rise when they collect more water than they’re able to drain away often due to heavy rains.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Work around the water table.
\n\n\n\nTry to pinpoint the issue causing water to pool in your yard. If you’re unsure what’s causing the excess water, we can help you find a landscaping pro near you to diagnose your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nAnother way to get rid of water pooling in your yard is to give it somewhere to go. You can do this by installing extra drainage. Hire a pro or build these DIY hardscaping features to improve your yard’s drainage and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nBefore you get started, call 811 and have the city mark out any potential underground utilities.
\n\n\n\nA French drain consists of perforated drain pipes buried underground. Stormwater flows into the pipes and out in a more suitable area. You’ll need to direct it toward a storm drain or an appropriate section of the landscape, like near a tree or a rain garden.
\n\n\n\nYou can build your own French drain or hire a professional. Check with your local municipality to see if they require a permit for this project.
\n\n\n\nA dry well is a lined hole in the earth that works as a catch basin. It temporarily holds collected water that will slowly seep back into the soil. Dry wells should be big enough to hold runoff without spilling over during average rainstorms.
\n\n\n\nDry wells range from low-cost hand-dug pits filled with rocks and permeable landscaping fabric to pricey perforated concrete or polyethylene tanks. Regardless of the design, you can conceal a dry well with turf for cover or an open grate for simple monitoring.
\n\n\n\nA dry creek bed is an appealing hardscaping feature that requires very little upkeep and is an efficient drainage solution. Once the dry creek bed is set up, you can add plants to the edges to improve its appearance and give the stone elements some balance.
\n\n\n\nA rain garden is nothing more than a planting space you install in a low part of your yard. A rain garden will direct gutter runoff into a lovely planting area. This acts as a natural filter and sponge to purify the water as it seeps into the surrounding soil.
\n\n\n\nWhen designing a rain garden, make sure the garden is at least 10 feet from any foundation and sloping away from your home.
\n\n\n\nInstalling a French drain or swale is the easiest way to channel runoff away from your driveway. A swale is a gravel-lined open trench with sloping sides.
\n\n\n\nSand, garden compost, leaf mold, and compost additions will loosen up soil that doesn’t absorb water very well. For hardpan soil, you’ll need a shovel to break it up.
\n\n\n\nYes. Rocks are great components of a yard’s drainage system since they do not compact or deteriorate over time and do not need ongoing maintenance.
\n\n\n\nDon’t ignore standing water in your yard. The longer you wait, the more it will cost to fix. We can help you find a lawn care professional to solve your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wikimedia | CC-BY-SA-4.0
\n","title":"How to Keep Water From Pooling in Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1789c/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg","srcSet":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/107df/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 320w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/293e9/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 500w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/f2cbb/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 800w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1789c/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 960w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/c26c2/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1dd6e/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/67b76/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 320w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/8df11/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 500w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/98a65/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 800w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/1dd6e/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 960w,\n/static/45d28eb9d9b7fe8fe4e24147231a0a50/3cc96/rsz_1280px-terrytown_yard_rain_water_july_2017.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Keep Water From Pooling in Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"When you see water pooling in your yard, don't panic! Here are a few techniques to keep the excess water flowing from your yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"d83f622e-8d9b-5590-8f22-0eca0edf7db0","slug":"lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional","path":"/blog/lawn-aeration-diy-vs-hiring-professional/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Bob Greenly has been mowing and caring for lawns since he was 12 years old. His summer job turned into a permanent career after college when he opened his own landscaping company.","name":"Bob Greenly","id":"86622de6-1450-5165-836f-e7397d91491b","path":"/author/bob-greenly/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/38ceb71a8b949ee91fe8f7d81c04ccde?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"bf4daca3-f477-56c4-b0f9-b212905a3b28","name":"Tools, Apps & Accessories","count":6,"path":"/category/garden-accessories/"}],"date":"October 3rd, 2019","excerpt":"The rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed. The last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do […]
\n","content":"\nThe rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed.
\n\n\n\nThe last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do it yourself, or are you better off hiring a professional? Here are the pros and cons of DIY lawn aeration vs. hiring a professional.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/n7T7g8yk7QfRDitctwYmrgWDu6JdJtS1R0C6zsHPi2CqZ9RNjN6BBQnT5-QVR1pCoIRVR0NIdYzubLglXEQpi4QTZiEsENmgcnxo2QBiuAJQkv6glwSjZgUJszbfVs-5V6LfWSAB\")
Your lawn may need to be aerated for any of several reasons. First among them: compaction, when the soil particles are pressed together into a smaller area. Soil compaction leaves less room for air and water to get to the roots.
\n\n\n\nIt is common in areas that have clay soil, or on new lawns where construction activity tamps down the soil, or any lawn that gets a lot of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nA thick layer of thatch can also be a reason to aerate. Thatch is the natural organic matter between the soil and the green blades of grass. A little thatch is necessary and healthy for your lawn. Too much thatch can lead to pest problems and prevent water and air from getting to the grass roots. If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, you may have too much thatch. Bend low and inspect: If the matted brown layer under your green grass blades is more than a half-inch, you may need to aerate.
\n\n\n\nAeration removes pokes holes in your lawn, allowing precious air and water to get down into the roots. It can also loosen the soil, and encourage the grass roots to grow deeper and spread, making your lawn healthier.
\n\n\n\nAerate during the peak of your lawn’s growing season. Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass should be aerated in the spring, and early fall, but warm-season grasses such as St. Augustinegrass need aerating in the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nStart with soil that’s not too dry. Aerating the day after a rain, or after watering is best.
\n\n\n\nDon’t clean up the plugs of soil; leave them to break down and return the nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k-jhjtyFGEXEpnZYMsxHJAP0MvwGNvbruiJLtgNXHdTy7dA6iCG63p4G2fBrzGfnYqwtgt2H81pJTYu34PljU1DA_fPDfSXwcG11H5VYGaT0nT6yrJ2_t3soyyvPGXa_T6spIX--\")
If you do it yourself, you have a choice of aeration techniques. Some are engine-powered machines, some simple tools. All of them share one essential task: poking holes in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nExperts consider core aerators to be superior. Core aeration machines can be purchased or rented for the day or the weekend to get the job done. This will pull out plugs of thatch and soil, allowing oxygen to get down to the roots. Core aeration is also a must in clay soil, where the soil compacts easily. Pulling the plugs out of the ground is the best way to achieve a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nA spike aerator punches holes in your lawn with solid metal tines. You can even find spike aerators that strap onto your shoes. This allows you to march around your lawn, sans machine.
\n\n\n\nThis last point is crucial because it could save you from making an expensive mistake.
\n\n\n\nDr. Kevin Frank with the Michigan State University Extension Department on Crop and Soil Sciences warns, “Also be aware of any other underground lines, e.g., invisible dog fence wire. These lines should be buried deep enough to avoid any trouble, but it never hurts to double-check.”
\n\n\n\nWhether you do it yourself, or you have a lawn service aerate, you will be performing a task vital to your lawn’s health. Every living being on the planet needs oxygen and water to survive, and your grass is no different. Aeration provides the roots of your lawn access to both, leaving your lawn greener, thicker and more beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Wikimedia, CC 3.0
\n","title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional","featured_media":null,"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"f3cedee9-3f12-5780-b5e8-eb8974ca3926","slug":"diy-hydroseeding","path":"/blog/diy-hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Are you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY […]
\n","content":"\nAre you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated. Let’s go over the steps.
\n\n\nAlso called hydraulic mulch seeding, hydroseeding is simply the process of seeding with a slurry mixture of seeds, water, mulch, and fertilizer. It has a slew of benefits, such as faster seed germination and a more uniform look.
\n\n\n\nThe slurry is sprayed with hydroseeding equipment or a pump. You can also buy a do-it-yourself hydroseeding kit that comes with the slurry ingredients and its own sprayer.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou need the following tools and materials for your hydroseeding project:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe very first step is planning out the specifics of your hydroseed slurry: the types of seeds you want to plant and the mulch that you’ll be using.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to seed grass types that match your area’s climate: cool-season grasses for the North and warm-season grasses down South. With hydroseeding, you can plant multiple types of grass instead of just one. Some people blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue, for example.
\n\n\n\nThere are many types of mulch that homeowners can use in their hydroseed slurries. Each one has its own pros and cons. Here are some of these mulch types:
\n\n\n\nFinding out the condition of your soil before you plant new seeds is a good move; it will tell you if the soil needs any amendments to ensure the most optimal growing conditions for your new grass. A soil test — either from a lab or from a home testing kit — will tell you your soil’s pH level and what nutrients it has.
\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. You can add lime if your soil is too acidic; add sulfur if it’s too alkaline. Any number outside of this pH range can cause your grass to grow poorly or even die.
\n\n\n\nUsing the soil test results, you can also determine what fertilizer to add to your hydroseed slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow it’s time to prepare your lawn for hydroseeding. The first step is clearing your lawn, as hydroseeding is most successful when applied to bare soil. Clear your lawn of existing grass (dead or alive), old plants, weeds, rocks, tools, toys, and other debris.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNext, you should mark any sprinkler heads around your lawn. This is especially important if you’re lugging around a heavy hydroseeding machine.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a sprinkler system but want to install one, you should do it while you’re prepping your lawn and before spraying the slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grading](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Grading-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JulNichols / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrading the soil is simply the process of adjusting its slope to prevent rainwater and runoff from getting to your house and other structures. When grading soil, it also gets leveled.
\n\n\n\nTo prepare your lawn for hydroseeding, grade your soil 2 ½ to 3 inches below the final grade you want it to be. The final grade is how high you want your lawn to be. Afterward, fill in holes and level your lawn with a rake and/or a yard leveler.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe next step is adding your soil additives: topsoil, compost, and sulfur or lime (if needed). The first two components stimulate healthy grass growth mainly because they supply your growing grass with nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAdd enough topsoil and compost so that it adds about 3 inches to your lawn’s grade. Then, churn it into the existing soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time to re-grade and level your lawn to the final grade you want it to have. It’s now ready to be hydroseeded!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo you have a hydroseeder? Chances are that the average homeowner doesn’t have one. In that case, you have three options: renting a hydroseeder, making one yourself, or buying a hydroseeding kit in-store or online. Buying a hydroseeding kit is not a bad option if you need to seed a smaller area.
\n\n\n\nYou can rent a hydroseeding machine for covering large areas from equipment rental companies like United Rentals, Sunbelt Rentals, and MacAllister Rentals.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather make your own hydroseeder, this video tutorial will show you how:
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your hydroseeding equipment, it’s time to mix your slurry. If you have a DIY hydroseeding kit, you only need to read the instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow much of each slurry component you need depends heavily on the size of the area you’ll be spraying. Typically, you’ll need 5 to 7 lbs of seed, 40 to 50 lbs of mulch, and 20 lbs of fertilizer for every 1,000 sq. ft. you’ll be hydroseeding. You’ll need enough water to fill your equipment about ¾ of the way. When in doubt, ask your materials supplier for guidance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding machines can vary in how they’re operated; always read the manual for specific instructions. However, you can expect this general process:
\n\n\n\nNow, it’s time to spray your lawn. It’s best to spray when it’s calm and cool outside, but it’s ok if it’s predicted to rain lightly that day. Wear your protective equipment before spraying, as you might be out in the sun for a while.
\n\n\n\nPlan your path ahead of time to prevent you from having to step on the areas you’ve just sprayed. Keep the nozzle at least 3 inches from the ground and spray slowly and evenly throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou might want to overlap your slurry a little bit while you spray. This ensures there aren’t any gaps that will result in bare patches later on. You can make this easier for yourself if you add lawn-friendly dye to your slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"hydroseeded](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCongratulations, you’ve now hydroseeded your lawn! However, this is only the beginning. You’ll need to maintain your new grass for it to grow into a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few hydroseeded lawn maintenance tips:
\n\n\n\nJust like when you’re planting grass seeds the old-fashioned way, the best time to hydroseed is during your chosen grass type’s growing season.
\n\n\n\nFor Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, you should hydroseed in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses, and other cool-season grasses should be hydroseeded from late summer to early fall.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can hydroseed in the summer, it can be a bit more challenging as you must keep your new lawn moist for the first few weeks, and water tends to evaporate in the hot summer sun before it can soak into the soil and reach the grass’s roots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to grow new grass in a larger area, then you should hydroseed. If you’re filling in bare patches, then it’s better to overseed the regular way. The hydroseed slurry can injure or kill your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOn average, the cost of professional hydroseeding ranges from 8 to 20 cents per square foot. The rate will depend on many factors, including your lawn’s condition and how big it is.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated and can make for an interesting project to tackle. You could save money on labor, too. However, it can be more beneficial to hire a professional because they have the knowledge and the equipment to hydroseed your lawn already. Besides, a pro will usually be more successful at hydroseeding than the average homeowner.
Wikilawn can connect you with dependable lawn care pros that can hydroseed, fertilize, and mow your lawn for you. Hire a lawn maintenance pro near you today for a lush lawn without all the work.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/107df/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/293e9/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/f2cbb/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/c26c2/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/67b76/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/8df11/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/98a65/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/3cc96/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Hydroseeding can give you the beautiful and lush lawn of your dreams. You can even do it yourself. Learn how with this DIY hydroseeding guide."}}},{"node":{"id":"e401ec73-35b8-5c01-9cb8-e0f57b2a3fc2","slug":"lawnstarter-review","path":"/blog/lawnstarter-review/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nick Crawford is a blog writer based in Philadelphia. He enjoys writing just as much as he enjoys reading a good book, cooking, and working out in his spare time.","name":"Nick Crawford","id":"5213edde-9943-5767-a5ae-163493ecfae5","path":"/author/nick-crawford/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7ce3281d49bd9eb99cb1c4f0200247d3?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"January 20th, 2023","excerpt":"LawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors. Interestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles. […]
\n","content":"\nLawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors.
\n\n\n\nInterestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles.
\n\n\n\n“So many people are trying to make an ‘Uber for X’. There’s only one Uber, and that’s Uber,” LawnStarter co-founder Ryan Farley says. “We’re not an on-demand, real-time company. It makes no sense for lawn care to be that way.”
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/zE1ChS6Og1vxg-VYYe-AZ1xQfxm_SCWMlJridVo3t3SbBRr0-DQ7fGQBOnXXrVIF_-fK13INDU1Eb7DBU4cipmMW9FYqoYrAVjzaIvLsQHn9amuSoHAirxtTuCR9DU0tjJH3713Fmn6txczEN89fuxBUW5_jJeGWs5QC8B8Ie5c362bNQFG9pjBEsnOlVg\")
Whether the company is Uber-like or not, it has become the largest, most popular way for homeowners to care for their lawn, and for good reason.
\n\n\n\nIn this Review:
\n\n\n\nWhy is Wikilawn reviewing LawnStarter? Wikilawn was created to compete with LawnStarter and similar sites, and our aim is to one day be better than all of them.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter connects you with lawn care and other outdoor services pros in your area.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2KG41896TuXxdLqF8YIT4jhawWKzzJNYCx2kqiPBDVpFnrTveSXyRTdPPIYcfUQ_ObuqYTDFB9orpDAe9SJQ3qXgvZYBnnnQZHMHPGjSW1-KIaQvbK7o5Isq1D7wSPADQBxddUStmD6kYKW4I0TsJHNU2Ws3QN5HhzXtqPh5nfUsk1a0OmI0yfxDChX8NA\")
How it works: You can get instant quotes for outdoor services by phone, the LawnStarter website, or by the startup’s app, which likely is how that whole “Uber of lawn care” comparison got started.
\n\n\n\nPayment is by credit card or debit card, and if your pro did a great job, you can even tip her or him via the app.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter history: LawnStarter started in Austin, Texas, in 2013, as a lawn care service provider. The company has grown and now operates in nearly every major metro across the U.S. and can connect you with pros for all sorts of outdoor services.
\n\n\n\nThe Uber of lawn care is now the Uber of all outdoor services.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f8VoxgybN4tQceQNQoMpGYckFpKkdxUWLtcfoSiYynu_uDWFceOjRfziA86avkp79KZdJflNCDueAyb2ZGBfbX2CjZ0WHfm2gdro3lL8BGxfgS7z5GRYNKPUkf-OD6sYgTTpuW4J1mwiEecbOyWrPciv1IFbvsEM5rNOnoojSHw5Fm2z_48Shewgf4spRg\")
LawnStarter uses local real estate records to calculate the size of your property and then generates a price quote. It often offers a $19 first-time mowing special for new customers. After that, mowing prices generally start at $29 per week. Price varies by the size of your yard.
\n\n\n\nA good range for an average, quarter-acre yard is $29 to $65. That includes edging and blowing grass clippings off patios and walkways. Generally, LawnStarter’s lawn care pros don’t bag clippings. They may if you request it, but expect to pay slightly more.
\n\n\n\nWorth Noting: If your grass is super long, say between 6 and 12 inches, LawnStarter tacks on an additional charge, which can be quite steep.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers 20-plus outdoor services. It’s nearly impossible here to quote an average price for each service because the cost varies somewhat depending upon the size of your home or property, the type of work you need done, the region in which you live, and other factors.
\n\n\n\nHowever, you can get free quotes for any kind of work within seconds on the LawnStarter website or on the app.
\n\n\n\nJust want your lawn mowed and kept in tip-top shape? Maybe you’ll decide that LawnStarter, with all of its various services, is a non-starter for you. After all, can one site do everything well?
\n\n\n\nTry us at Wikilawn. You simply choose the lawn care service you want, put in your address, and we put your job out to bid to local yard care professionals.
\n\n\n\nThe price quotes you get back will depend on the size of your yard and other factors, but we cast a really wide net through sites like Lawn Love, HomeAdvisor, and Networx to ensure you get the best price possible.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you use LawnStarter?
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/F_Wb07EsZcD87OnSk4go6mMlAV12fhHbrTCo_7hZK9SvfA8oRYI7TWPnv-b22O4pCksryWYZsTMmevIOsekIvXhyk4TM-DuFe0W_GuD8U8_kguJP4_3OY2aEJACul-qQZQjK2sflSXUzmSevEjq3lDMBax2rZozFQEWtZU2AqHsXdzfkYj5kWxKIP7-gRA\")
Visit LawnStarter or log onto the mobile app. Enter your address, name, and phone number into the search bar, and click the “Request Quote” button.
\n\n\n\nNote: LawnStarter’s app offers a more stripped-down menu of services. If you want to book lawn care services, the app works great. If you want other outdoor services, the LawnStarter website is your better option.
\n\n\n\nChoose one or more services from the menu. For lawn care, choose your frequency (weekly, bi-weekly, and monthly).
Click “Get Free Quotes” (after you ensure your contact information is correct, of course).
\n\n\n\nWhat’s next?
\n\n\n\nFor lawn care services: LawnStarter will match you with a lawn care provider near you and your first service will be scheduled.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers more services than competitors Lawn Love and GreenPal, but here’s a closer look at how LawnStarter, Lawn Love, GreenPal, and Wikilawn compare.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ydc33opV1-rL95WHorZodYWXsTeFolKwfQalWcPCkWQx14IDTA0P1ssgldltjXteXKtu2rPtS4tPbsP7TpkkER-JXLek74kQv2Rkh5lOGW0ZeO6XOJ3it1i1XeNxlUK9x96rlQppEj5_DfrrZ5yhrU8-7xzoVvxHMuWr1TPc_ACDoJu8Y_TIDkywyy7Okg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 20+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.8 out of 5 |
| How it works | A LawnStarter pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website, phone, or mobile app |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $19. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Austin, Texas |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NdWBnc_CMKGsu53lEo6S3m8yjOmvI1qXfg1Gn9zQz-c12dlZ20o8SEhPgbhugL5XM8iLLNVTSXWtPRzmZMuSPdvIMGgEyYZNV7eabwPN0Q7RfY_hk3CVtXZpY8TES-Z7F8nmDFUDyK1EgrtxdG-auo9lhx9BF-wlJMtQ4E_qa8jsNiPn4AETl0PJHm1eAg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 10+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.7 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | A Lawn Love pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website or phone |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $24. |
| Year founded | 2014 |
| Based in | San Diego |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | Yes |
![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/96aKsbY4azkOr7uppJEgLUvkVRI2hEJ-I8tb-X_d_Z8yqght8QC-DHOvipqesRRZXh6p4Tn1rHJ22MPjAUvSAe4nFw82tDfyONMhKrPzuCdn5CLPWP91VN58np0Y4jBaJJMyW9KIzNpZPkxeg8S_nnfS6tuRyo5v7iZ7YHQXZ8dTIh-Al5wMNog3govGew\")
| Metro areas covered | 100+ |
| Services offered | Lawn care, lawn maintenance, yard cleanups, snow removal |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.6 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid to lawn care pros near you |
| Ways to book service | Website, app or phone |
| Basic price | You’ll get multiple lawn mowing quotes from $25 to $45 |
| Year founded | 2012 |
| Based in | Nashville |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![\"Wikilawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/rsz_171e64b7d-5080-473b-9793-87d2629a1cca_4_5005_c.jpg\")
| Metro areas covered | Available in most U.S. metro |
| Services offered | Lawn care, gardening, and landscaping |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | No ratings available online |
| How it works | You’ll get a quote in minutes from up to 4 professionals who can tackle your lawn care or other outdoor job. |
| Ways to book service | Website |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and the service providers’ quotes. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Dallas |
No product or service is perfect. Here are what LawnStarter excels and where it needs improvement.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter does get high marks from customers (as of this writing).
\n\n\n\nHere are a few of the customer reviews, both positive and negative:
\n\n\n\nWell Done and Thorough: “Good professional work on my large lawn (I am recovering from surgery and cannot push my own lawn machinery around for a number of weeks). Well done, thorough, completes the job. I feel I’ve contracted with a fine lawn service to fill in for me while I’m still unable to do it. … Much appreciated!” – Steve B.
\n\n\n\nSaved Me a Ton of Grief: “They have not failed to come out and do a good job for over 2 years. … (LawnStarter) has saved me a ton of grief for arranging services myself.” – Karl K.
\n\n\n\nFirst Time Wasn’t the Charm: “Our initial (LawnStarter) appointment was missed by the assigned person. After contacting the app, we were assigned a new company and are very happy with them. So far, any issues I have had have been promptly and without any hassle on my part.” – R. McCann
\n\n\n\nBroken Sprinkler Head: “I had my sprinkler head broken several times during my service. Both times I was given the option to have them replace the item or for me to be reimbursed. Both times I selected to have them replaced and both times was told they could not replace it, only offer me a small credit to replace the item.” – Justin
\n\n\n\nWe at Wikilawn make it easy to hire a lawn care pro to keep your grass green and healthy. It often will cost you less than LawnStarter and the other guys, too, because we cast the biggest net of lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nSo before you go somewhere else, you’re already here.
\n\n\n\nLet Wikilawn find a lawn care pro near you to cut your grass and boost your home’s curb appeal.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zYKvKOakIX9l8YnT-rPYa_hqJVssZWRFL9E45BMkrNsYuL8AYV5LgnRAEQYxv0fBZoAllKjSH5NkrS_mDVp5HmPmLfNfSv_Mrfez2OO2rEJlrw8CV05cL-gfLZPLsooafCqv9IBhmtq7DX1kfy7fS4WClSMjVbcgelnybnn1TpCWo5-STXbEo4ePqqP5Gw\")
But, circling back to the beginning of this review … Is the Uber of lawn care legit? We think so.
\n\n\n\nYou trust Uber to get you to the airport or to deliver dinner. Uber is ubiquitous. If you want a fancy app to book your lawn care service, sure, go with the so-called Uber of outdoor services – sorry, Mr. Farley.
\n\n\n\nOr you could just book your lawn care through Wikilawn. (Wink-wink, nudge-nudge.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"LawnStarter Review: Reviews, Services, Prices, and Alternatives","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7796143250688705,"src":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/bc41c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/107df/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/293e9/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/bc41c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 646w","srcWebp":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/7328c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/67b76/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 320w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/8df11/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 500w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/7328c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 646w","sizes":"(max-width: 646px) 100vw, 646px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"LawnStarter Review: Reviews, Services, Prices, and Alternatives | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Does LawnStarter live up to its reputation as the “Uber of lawn care?” Our LawnStarter review looks at its services, prices, customer reviews, and more."}}},{"node":{"id":"03e06922-154d-5b08-aae5-9bc9a993b812","slug":"pros-and-cons-of-artificial-grass","path":"/blog/pros-and-cons-of-artificial-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Carmen Dexter is a freelance journalist and teacher who enjoys growing her own organic food and recycling as much as possible.","name":"Carmen Dexter","id":"f23ec685-a615-5004-a3fd-c0bfe6b2c9ec","path":"/author/carmen-dexter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/e37085a8a22d319f3383613d59d54c5f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 2nd, 2022","excerpt":"The pros and cons of artificial grass include conserving water and the costs involved with installing a new lawn. You may decide the benefits outweigh the downsides if you’re tired of mowing and caring for a lawn. In this article, we’ll look at the pros and cons of installing artificial grass and why you should […]
\n","content":"\nThe pros and cons of artificial grass include conserving water and the costs involved with installing a new lawn. You may decide the benefits outweigh the downsides if you’re tired of mowing and caring for a lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll look at the pros and cons of installing artificial grass and why you should or shouldn’t consider it for your yard.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nOur lawns set the expectations for the rest of our property, and serve as a status symbol, so keeping them clean and green is essential. Depending on your location, income, and available time, synthetic grass may be the way to go.
\n\n\n\nWe use billions of gallons of water outdoors every day with about 50% used on the lawn! The Synthetic Turf Council estimates that every square foot of grass replaced with artificial turf saves 55 gallons of water per year. With that in mind, replacing an average-sized lawn of about 1800 square feet with fake grass saves 99,000 gallons of water every year. That cuts your water bill by about $500 a year.
\n\n\n\nTake care of your synthetic lawn, and it will be around for about 15 to 20 years. While you don’t need to water it, you’ll have to hose it down every week or so to get rid of dirt and debris. Sweeping or raking the turf regularly also keeps the blades standing upright for the years to come.
\n\n\n\nLawn mowers aren’t cheap, with the average cost at just over $1000. Consider breakdowns, repair of parts, and the price of gas, and you’re looking at even more. Add an edger, weed wacker, and a fertilizer and seed spreader, and the cost multiplies. Artificial turf is a no mow grass, so these costs disappear.
\n\n\n\nInstalling an artificial lawn removes the risks of yard work. It also eliminates the need for dangerous chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Not only will you save money, you won’t have to remember to do it!
\n\n\n\nEven after a heavy rain, you won’t have to worry about mud puddles, muddy paws or fur, and extra baths for Rover. You won’t have stains or smells if you pick up poop daily and hose off dog pee regularly. Several companies also make artificial grass for dogs with antimicrobial and non-toxic properties.
\n\n\n\nWhen you lay out the artificial turf, you’re saying goodbye to mosquitoes, grubs, moles, voles, and other critters that like to munch on lawns. You also don’t have to worry about the mold that triggers allergies.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest expense with artificial grass is during installation. The average price is $12.33 per square foot, so the total cost depends on the size of your yard. But once that initial installation is done, you can look forward to 15 to 20 years of a low-maintenance, low-cost yard.
\n\n\n\nFake grass isn’t for everyone. Some homeowners just don’t like it. Others may simply prefer other alternatives to a grass lawn. A few other reasons may turn some folks away from synthetic turf.
\n\n\n\nFake grass doesn’t have the ability to transpire water through openings on the blades. So, yes, it gets hotter than a natural grass lawn in the summer. Just how much hotter depends on your climate and what kind of artificial turf you have.
\n\n\n\nHigh-quality synthetic lawns have UV inhibitors that resist the absorption of sunlight and help keep them cooler. Certain infills may lower the lawn temps by up to 25%. If you live in a hot climate, you can help solve the problem by hosing it down for a few minutes and making sure there’s plenty of shade in your yard for kids or pets.
\n\n\n\nWe need living plants, including natural grass, to survive. They are responsible for the air we breathe and the food we eat. Artificial grass also lowers your yard’s biodiversity since it doesn’t attract wildlife or pollinators.
\n\n\n\nStudies have shown fake grass to exhibit increased runoff, which can contribute to water pollution. Synthetic turf doesn’t cool the air or absorb carbon dioxide like natural grass.
\n\n\n\nArtificial grass is made of plastic. While it does eliminate the need for gas-powered mowers that pollute, it eventually becomes part of the pollution problem. Synthetic turf can be recycled, but the equipment is expensive, and the process is difficult. There are no plants designed specifically to recycle fake grass, so it ends up in landfills and contributes to microplastic pollution.
\n\n\n\nThe debate over the seriousness of sports injuries on artificial turf vs. natural grass continues. Some NFL players insist artificial grass is harder on the body. Many homeowners groups in New Jersey and Connecticut have waged a turf war with their cities over concerns about the chemicals and recycled tires used in artificial grass for parks and playgrounds. The EPA is still researching these claims as it looks at the pros and cons of artificial grass.
\n\n\n\nWe touched on this in the pros of artificial grass, but no matter how well you care for it, artificial grass doesn’t last forever. Quality fake grass may hold up for as long as 20 years. More inferior products may start looking ratty after just five.
\n\n\n\nWarranties on the synthetic grass range from 5 years to life, depending on the manufacturer. There are also several caveats on warranties, so if you aren’t meticulous with your maintenance, you’ll void the guarantee. Regardless of who pays or how long it lasts, you will eventually have to replace your artificial lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve got a lot of property, installing artificial turf may be out of your financial reach. Once again, the average cost of installation is more than $12 per square foot. Since the average lawn size is more than 10,000 square feet, laying artificial turf over that space can set you back as much as $123,000.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to break the bank but still want to replace some real grass, consider installing a putting green in your backyard or using a small patch of synthetic grass in your landscape design.
\n\n\n\n1. Does artificial grass get damaged?
\n\n\n\nYes. Sharp objects may cut both the blades and the backing of the fake grass. Hot items falling from the barbecue can melt the turf. And petroleum-based products or harsh cleaning fluids can damage and discolor your artificial lawn.
\n\n\n\n2. Can artificial grass be repaired?
\n\n\n\nYes. You can remove the damaged area, replace the base, and install a fresh patch of artificial turf and add infill.
\n\n\n\n3. Can I install artificial grass myself?
\n\n\n\nYes, in fact, installing artificial grass yourself will significantly reduce the cost. Expect the project to take three days.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Petar Tonchev | Unsplash
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\n","content":"\nPampas grass is an ornamental grass with dramatic foliage that produces beautiful showstoppers in landscapes and floral arrangements. Before learning how to plant and grow pampas grass, you need to understand the plant’s needs and when to plant it.
\n\n\n\nThis article will show you:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to plant pampas grass is in early spring, between March and May. This warm-season ornamental grass grows best at temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nYou can grow pampas grass from seed in three easy steps.
\n\n\n\nIt takes 2 to 3 years from planting the pampas grass seeds until their feathery plumes form. If you don’t want to wait, garden nurseries and hardware stores often sell more mature plants in 1-gallon and 3-gallon containers.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass grows best in full sun. It tolerates partial shade, so climates in the USDA zones 7-11 are ideal. You’ll find it along the coast of California, the Central Valley, Western Transverse Ranges, and the Mojave Desert. Pampas grass prefers moist, well-draining soil preferring temperatures 75 degrees or higher and high humidity levels.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass tolerates salt spray and high winds, often growing as high as 6 feet in one year. When growing pampas grass from seed, the plant will take from 2 to 4 years to reach full maturity. Because of its size, it needs a lot of space. If creating a hedge, leave 6 to 8 feet between each plant.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to water occasionally if planting pampas grass in a container, but once in the ground, pampas grass is low maintenance. No need for additional watering since it thrives on natural rainfall. Applying mulch around the root zones should keep out weeds and keep the soil moist.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass requires yearly pruning in late winter. Use shears to cut the plant as close to ground level as possible.
\n\n\n\nOver time pampas grass becomes overcrowded, and the center of the plant dies. Propagation keeps the grass healthy and grows new plants. You can do this in the spring by slicing clumps of grass and planting them in another location.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass prevents soil erosion with its strong root system. Once established, it has very few pest problems, and deer don’t find it appealing. Since it’s drought-tolerant, it makes an excellent grass alternative.
\n\n\n\nLike all plants, pampas has its downsides.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass has grass-like foliage and feathery plumes that come in a variety of colors, including white, cream, lavender, and pink. This ornamental grass also comes in several varieties.
\n\n\n\nDwarf varieties of pampas grass are the smallest and shortest of the species. Reaching a height of 3 to 6 feet and a width of 3 to 4 feet, dwarf pampas grass grows in zones 6 to 10. It has green foliage and white, feathery plumes.
\n\n\n\nGold band pampas grass grows in zones 7 to 11. It grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide. Its foliage is green with a lengthwise yellow stripe, and its feathery plume is white.
\n\n\n\nAndes silver pampas grass grows 5 to 7 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide. Grown in zones 6 to 10, it has a silvery-white, feathery plume and gray-green foliage.
\n\n\n\nSilver comet pampas grass has a creamy-white, feathery plume. Its foliage is green with two white stripes on each blade’s edges. Grown in zones 7 to 10, silver comet pampas grass grows to a height and width of 4 to 6 feet.
\n\n\n\nPurple pampas grass is also known as Andean pampas grass. It’s the tallest and largest on this list, growing to heights of 15 to 20 feet tall and up to 19 feet wide. With deep green foliage and purple or pink feathery plumes, purple pampas grass grows in zones 7 to 11.
\n\n\n\nMale and female flowers differ in pampas grass, with the female plants displaying more color. Male plants lack the silky hairs that cover the flowers and make pampas grass so dramatic. Pampas grass is often propagated by separating the female and male clumps.
\n\n\n\n1. Does pampas grass come back every year?
\n\n\n\nYes. Pampas grass is a perennial plant that grows from spring through fall. It goes dormant in the winter.
\n\n\n\n2. Is pampas grass poisonous to dogs?
\n\n\n\nNo. According to the ASPCA, pampas grass is non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, but the sharp edges can sometimes cut their paws.
\n\n\n\n3. When does pampas grass bloom?
\n\n\n\nPampas grass blooms in late summer through early fall. In warmer climates, it can bloom throughout the winter.
\n\n\n\n4. How do I dry pampas grass to use in a floral arrangement?
\n\n\n\nWrap the stems together with some string and hang them upside down in a dry place for about three weeks. Use care when handling the dry stems to keep the plumes from shedding.
\n\n\n\n5. How do I care for pampas grass in a floral arrangement?
\n\n\n\nYou’ll need to cut pampas grass’s feathery plumes when they become fluffy before they begin to shed. Inspect plumes for insects and lightly shake to remove. To prevent further shedding once cut, lightly spray with aerosol hairspray. Hang to dry.
\n\n\n\nWhen indoors, keep pampas grass plumes away from direct sunlight and high humidity. Pampas grass’s feathery plumes last up to 2 years when dried.
\n\n\n\n6. How do I remove pampas grass?
\n\n\n\nRemoving pampas grass can be labor-intensive. UC Master Gardeners of Napa County recommends removing the plant by hand when the soil is moist, before its feathery plumes bloom. You’ll need to remove the roots as well.
\n\n\n\n
If you love the feathery plumes but don’t want to deal with pampas grass’s sharp blades, we can help you find a landscaping professional near you who will plant and prune your plants.
Main Photo Credit: Moshe Harosh | Pixabay
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\n","content":"\nRather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is simply spreading fresh grass seed directly into the existing lawn without tearing up the turf or the soil. It’s an excellent way to make your lawn thicker and greener. By mixing types of grass seed, you can even prolong the life of your lawn and enjoy it year-round.
\n\n\n\nLet’s face it: We all end up making twice as many trips to the home store as anticipated, looking for that one last item we forgot. Start here, gather your materials, and finish your shopping in one day.
\n\n\n\nThe first step is deciding when to spread the seeds. This is typically done in late summer or early fall, depending on if you have cool-season or warm-season grass in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLike any plant, grass seeds need to find their way to the soil to germinate. But thatch can get in the way. Thatch is the organic matter like grass and leaves that accumulates atop the soil. If you can’t see soil between your existing grass, remove the thatch with a dethatcher.
\n\n\n\nAfter dethatching, you’ll need to aerate. Spike aeration pokes holes in the solid while core aeration pokes holes and removes plugs of soil, giving your grass seed the space it needs to germinate.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: It’s unlikely you have a dethatcher or aerator hanging out in your shed. The local home supply store should have a selection to choose from. Look for rental opportunities while you pick up the fertilizer and grass seed.
\n\n\n\nIn order to help the seeds reach the soil, cut the grass to about one inch. This is likely shorter than you normally mow, so you’ll need to drop the blade.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to bag the trimmings and remove them. Again, this is all about increasing the likelihood of the new seeds making soil contact and germinating successfully. If you don’t have a way to bag the clippings, the next step will help.
\n\n\n\nRake up all of the leaves, twigs, clippings, and other debris on your lawn. It’s best if you add a little muscle to the raking process, allowing the rake tines to loosen up the soil as well.
\n\n\n\nUse a fertilizer spreader to add a layer of enriched topsoil on top of your grass. This top layer of soil is filled with organic matter and microorganisms necessary for life to develop. Topsoil makes sure the seeds have access to water, nutrients, and space to germinate.
\n\n\n\nThis layer should be about ¼-inch thick. Some grass seed mixtures include topsoil, so you won’t need to add additional topsoil and can jump to the next step.
\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time for seeding! Like most aspects of lawn care, it’s essential to know just what type of grass you’re working with. Either use the same seed as your existing lawn or a variety that compliments it. For example, overseed a Zoysiagrass lawn with Zoysia seed, or a cool-season ryegrass to add color in the winter.
\n\n\n\nRead the bag’s instructions for how much seed to apply per square foot, and fill your drop spreader or broadcast spreader accordingly. Walk the spreader across your lawn in the same direction you mow, depositing the seed in rows.
\n\n\n\nTo jumpstart growth and ensure the new seeds have what they need, use a fertilizer spreader to add a starter fertilizer appropriate for your lawn. Starter mixes are specially designed for new growth and should be applied wherever you spread the seeds.
\n\n\n\nIf your grass seed mixture already contains fertilizer, you can skip this step.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Stay away from “weed and feed” mixtures as these herbicides can damage to new growth.
\n\n\n\nNew plants always require water, and your new grass seed is no different. As soon as you finish spreading seed and fertilizer, give your lawn a good, healthy drink.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then water your lawn lightly two to three times each day, ensuring the soil stays moist. This should continue until the new grass is as tall to established grass. Always water in the morning or after sundown so as to prevent evaporation.
\n\n\n\nYou should also look for signs of overwatering, such as puddles or squishy soil. If you notice this, stop watering right away and wait until conditions return to normal.
\n\n\n\nAlong with consistent watering, you should also stay off your grass until it has had a chance to develop. Limit foot and paw traffic until the grass has at least 1- to 2-inches of growth, and don’t pull out the mower until the new grass is similar in height to the established grass. Giving your new lawn a chance to take hold is the final step in overseeding.
\n\n\n\nWhen you overseed your lawn, you give it the ability to resist disease, drought conditions, and heavy foot traffic. A thicker lawn is also more resistant to lawn damaging insects. It also requires less fertilizer and maintenance.
\n\n\n\n1. Why mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nA shorter lawn gives the seeds a better chance of reaching the soil. It’s also important to loosen the top layer of soil and remove any dead grass or thatch, so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I prevent the birds from eating the grass seed?
\n\n\n\nAdd a layer of topsoil over the seeded areas. This prevents the birds and other wildlife from getting to the seed. If you notice birds or rabbits near the area, get a roll of burlap and place strips of it over the seeded area. Anchor the strips with tent stakes.
\n\n\n\n3. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should start to see the grass spout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. How often should I overseed my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAnnually. Most lawn care professionals recommend overseeding each year to keep your lawn coming back thicker and greener every spring. If you only see bald spots and thinning every once in a while, you can probably overseed once every two or three years.
\n\n\n\n5. Do I need to apply fertilizer when overseeding my lawn?
\n\n\n\nOnly if you didn’t fertilize in spring. Adding more fertilizer isn’t necessary, and may actually hinder your new grass seed from growing. Fertilizing just before or after reseeding will force the germinating seeds to compete with the existing grass and weeds. It’s best to wait until the following spring to fertilize.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project, but if you’d rather not spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating, we can help you find a lawn care professional near you.
Main Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
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\n","content":"\nAnytime you face a pest infestation, it’s a stressful situation. But when you have pests that can damage your property, that’s a whole new level of stress. Carpenter ants chew through wood in homes and yards across the country. Thankfully, we’ve got some advice on how to get rid of carpenter ants indoors and outdoors.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nCarpenter ants (Camponotus) make their homes in trees and logs, easily chewing through wet wood to create their tunnels and nests. These ants come in different sizes and colors, but in North America, they mostly appear black or reddish brown.
\n\n\n\nCarpenter ants are typically between one-quarter inch and five-eighths of an inch in length, with elbowed antennae. Some carpenter ants may develop wings while the nest is swarming.
\n\n\n\nLike most ants, carpenter ants give each other directions to food and shelter by leaving behind a pheromone trail. It’s how they sneak into your kitchen or bathroom in vast numbers.
\n\n\n\nThankfully, we have some helpful tips for controlling carpenter ants in the home. Infestation sizes may vary, but following these steps in the suggested order mimics professional treatments and can save you the cost of hiring an exterminator.
\n\n\n\nThe first step to ending your carpenter ant problem is to locate the nest. Follow the ant trail or evidence of damage until you reach the nest.
\n\n\n\nSometimes these nests are difficult to find. Try thumping the wood where you suspect damage. If it sounds hollow, you’re in the right place. Thumping around the nest can excite the ants, and panicked ants may appear.
\n\n\n\nOnce you find the nest (or locate high ant activity) apply bait traps or bait gel nearby. Spread your bait around sinks, appliances, baseboards, and bathroom fixtures. The nest is usually near a source of water. Consider using a duster for a quick and even application of fine granular baits.
\n\n\n\nBaits eliminate ants by lacing their food with insecticide. When the ant takes the bait back to share it with the colony, that insecticide spreads amongst the other ants until it dethrones the queen.
\n\n\n\nNext, apply an aerosol foam to cracks, holes, and crevices. Insecticidal foams expand, making them the ideal choice for wall voids, cracks, and crevices.
\n\n\n\nAerosol foams like FiPro spread pesticides from ant to ant, infecting the entire colony. When ants come in contact with these foams, their nervous systems are affected, resulting in death.
\n\n\n\nYou can use insecticidal dust to pump pesticides into hard-to-reach places like behind sinks and inside hollow doors.
\n\n\n\nAnother option is to use diatomaceous earth (D.E.) to solve your carpenter ant problem. Just sprinkle this pesticide along the pheromone trail or near suspected entry points to your home.
\n\n\n\nDiatomaceous earth eradicates pests dehydrating their bodies. This dehydration occurs either by consumption or the proximity to D.E.
\n\n\n\nYou can use boric acid in the same manner. Boric acid takes longer to kill insects than D.E., but both are effective means of carpenter ant control. Diatomaceous earth can be used outdoors as well.
\n\n\n\nAre carpenter ants infesting the wood frame around your compost pile or chewing away at your wood deck? Similar to indoor infestations, you’ll need to find the nest and treat it with pesticides.
\n\n\n\nPerimeter treatments are advisable whether your infestation is indoors or outside. Use a non-repellent insecticide to spray wall voids, crevices, windows, eaves, and potential entry points. This will help ensure the outside infestation doesn’t migrate indoors.
\n\n\n\nSpray the insecticides in a sweeping motion 1 to 3 feet up the wall and 1 to 3 feet into the yard to create a strong barrier around your home.
\n\n\n\nAlways read and follow the instructions listed on the product label, as guidelines may vary from product to product.
\n\n\n\nRepellents are a helpful tool to rid your lawn of carpenter ants. Carpenter ants are sensitive to strong odors, and the odors will disrupt the pheromone trails they use to direct other ants.
\n\n\n\nScents like peppermint (oil), lemon, vinegar, and chili powder can keep carpenter ants away.
\n\n\n\nAdd your chosen repellant to a spray bottle and dilute it with water. Aim for a 1:1 ratio. Spray your natural repellent solution around any potential entrances to your home or in areas where you see carpenter ant activity.
\n\n\n\nJust like you would indoors, scout your yard for signs of carpenter ant activity and set up bait traps.
\n\n\n\nAnother way to rid your lawn of carpenter ants is with homemade bait. Start by mixing one-thirds sugar with two-thirds boric acid. Next, place your mixture in a small dish or bottle cap near ant trails or the nest.
\n\n\n\nBoric acid is widely available at grocery stores, pharmacies, and supercenters.
\n\n\n\nAphids and carpenter ants have a symbiotic relationship. The aphids create a food source for the ants (honeydew), and in return, the carpenter ants protect the aphids from predators. If your lawn is teeming with aphids, there’s likely a carpenter ant infestation nearby.
\n\n\n\nLuckily, aphids can be eradicated with pesticides, soapy water, neem oil, or petroleum-based horticultural oils. Once the aphid population is reduced, the ant colony will likely search for a new source of food elsewhere.
\n\n\n\nThe best way to prevent pests is to remove their food source and tidy your home and yard.
\n\n\n\nA carpenter ant infestation can happen anywhere. These ants need damp wood to make a home and a consistent food source.
\n\n\n\nCommon causes of a carpenter ant infestation include:
\n\n\n\nA carpenter ant sighting in your home doesn’t necessarily mean you have an infestation. It could just be a worker ant scouting out a new location for a nest. However, if you see winged carpenter ants, that means a colony is swarming and might be trying to move into your area.
\n\n\n\nSigns of an infestation in your home include:
\n\n\n\nBoth termites and carpenter ants can damage wood, leaving evidence of frass (wood shavings). Despite looking so similar and causing similar damage, they require significantly different treatment, which is why proper identification is so important. Here are some helpful tips to tell them apart:
\n\n\n\n| Carpenter Ants | Termites |
| Carpenter ants are discrete in their nest building, often unbeknownst to homeowners. | Depending on the species, termites typically cause damage out in the open. Termites also construct mud tubes that are often visible outside of the nest. |
| Carpenter ant bodies are pinched at the neck and waist. | Termite bodies have a similar thickness throughout. |
| Carpenter ants have six long legs. | Termites have six short legs. |
| Carpenter ants have elbowed antennae. | Termites have straight antennae. |
| Carpenter ants have two pairs of wings with the front wings much larger than the back wings. The wings also have fewer veins than termite wings. | Termites have two pairs of wings of equal size with many veins. |
Carpenter ants likely entered your home through cracks and crevices. They can travel across tree limbs and wires and even chew through wood to enter your home.
\n\n\n\nMonitor points of entry such as any place wires enter your home. Check your baseboards and window sills, and keep shrubs and tree limbs away from your home.
\n\n\n\nThe good news is it can take years for carpenter ants to cause notable damage, unlike termites, whose damage becomes evident in a few months.
\n\n\n\nPest infestations can be overwhelming, so there’s no shame in hiring a professional exterminator. If your carpenter ant infestation is in a difficult-to-reach location, or pest control isn’t your forte, hire a pro for the job.
Pests like carpenter ants don’t like a manicured lawn. They prefer tall grass to hide from predators. Connect with a local lawn care professional who can keep your lawn tidy and ward off outdoor pests.
Main Photo Credit: Geoff Gallice / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
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