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Pampas grass is an ornamental grass with dramatic foliage that produces beautiful showstoppers in landscapes and floral arrangements. Before learning how to plant and grow pampas grass, you need to understand the plant’s needs and when to plant it. This article will show you: When to plant pampas grass How to plant pampas grass […]
\n","content":"\nPampas grass is an ornamental grass with dramatic foliage that produces beautiful showstoppers in landscapes and floral arrangements. Before learning how to plant and grow pampas grass, you need to understand the plant’s needs and when to plant it.
\n\n\n\nThis article will show you:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to plant pampas grass is in early spring, between March and May. This warm-season ornamental grass grows best at temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nYou can grow pampas grass from seed in three easy steps.
\n\n\n\nIt takes 2 to 3 years from planting the pampas grass seeds until their feathery plumes form. If you don’t want to wait, garden nurseries and hardware stores often sell more mature plants in 1-gallon and 3-gallon containers.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass grows best in full sun. It tolerates partial shade, so climates in the USDA zones 7-11 are ideal. You’ll find it along the coast of California, the Central Valley, Western Transverse Ranges, and the Mojave Desert. Pampas grass prefers moist, well-draining soil preferring temperatures 75 degrees or higher and high humidity levels.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass tolerates salt spray and high winds, often growing as high as 6 feet in one year. When growing pampas grass from seed, the plant will take from 2 to 4 years to reach full maturity. Because of its size, it needs a lot of space. If creating a hedge, leave 6 to 8 feet between each plant.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to water occasionally if planting pampas grass in a container, but once in the ground, pampas grass is low maintenance. No need for additional watering since it thrives on natural rainfall. Applying mulch around the root zones should keep out weeds and keep the soil moist.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass requires yearly pruning in late winter. Use shears to cut the plant as close to ground level as possible.
\n\n\n\nOver time pampas grass becomes overcrowded, and the center of the plant dies. Propagation keeps the grass healthy and grows new plants. You can do this in the spring by slicing clumps of grass and planting them in another location.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass prevents soil erosion with its strong root system. Once established, it has very few pest problems, and deer don’t find it appealing. Since it’s drought-tolerant, it makes an excellent grass alternative.
\n\n\n\nLike all plants, pampas has its downsides.
\n\n\n\nPampas grass has grass-like foliage and feathery plumes that come in a variety of colors, including white, cream, lavender, and pink. This ornamental grass also comes in several varieties.
\n\n\n\nDwarf varieties of pampas grass are the smallest and shortest of the species. Reaching a height of 3 to 6 feet and a width of 3 to 4 feet, dwarf pampas grass grows in zones 6 to 10. It has green foliage and white, feathery plumes.
\n\n\n\nGold band pampas grass grows in zones 7 to 11. It grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide. Its foliage is green with a lengthwise yellow stripe, and its feathery plume is white.
\n\n\n\nAndes silver pampas grass grows 5 to 7 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide. Grown in zones 6 to 10, it has a silvery-white, feathery plume and gray-green foliage.
\n\n\n\nSilver comet pampas grass has a creamy-white, feathery plume. Its foliage is green with two white stripes on each blade’s edges. Grown in zones 7 to 10, silver comet pampas grass grows to a height and width of 4 to 6 feet.
\n\n\n\nPurple pampas grass is also known as Andean pampas grass. It’s the tallest and largest on this list, growing to heights of 15 to 20 feet tall and up to 19 feet wide. With deep green foliage and purple or pink feathery plumes, purple pampas grass grows in zones 7 to 11.
\n\n\n\nMale and female flowers differ in pampas grass, with the female plants displaying more color. Male plants lack the silky hairs that cover the flowers and make pampas grass so dramatic. Pampas grass is often propagated by separating the female and male clumps.
\n\n\n\n1. Does pampas grass come back every year?
\n\n\n\nYes. Pampas grass is a perennial plant that grows from spring through fall. It goes dormant in the winter.
\n\n\n\n2. Is pampas grass poisonous to dogs?
\n\n\n\nNo. According to the ASPCA, pampas grass is non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses, but the sharp edges can sometimes cut their paws.
\n\n\n\n3. When does pampas grass bloom?
\n\n\n\nPampas grass blooms in late summer through early fall. In warmer climates, it can bloom throughout the winter.
\n\n\n\n4. How do I dry pampas grass to use in a floral arrangement?
\n\n\n\nWrap the stems together with some string and hang them upside down in a dry place for about three weeks. Use care when handling the dry stems to keep the plumes from shedding.
\n\n\n\n5. How do I care for pampas grass in a floral arrangement?
\n\n\n\nYou’ll need to cut pampas grass’s feathery plumes when they become fluffy before they begin to shed. Inspect plumes for insects and lightly shake to remove. To prevent further shedding once cut, lightly spray with aerosol hairspray. Hang to dry.
\n\n\n\nWhen indoors, keep pampas grass plumes away from direct sunlight and high humidity. Pampas grass’s feathery plumes last up to 2 years when dried.
\n\n\n\n6. How do I remove pampas grass?
\n\n\n\nRemoving pampas grass can be labor-intensive. UC Master Gardeners of Napa County recommends removing the plant by hand when the soil is moist, before its feathery plumes bloom. You’ll need to remove the roots as well.
\n\n\n\n
If you love the feathery plumes but don’t want to deal with pampas grass’s sharp blades, we can help you find a landscaping professional near you who will plant and prune your plants.
Main Photo Credit: Moshe Harosh | Pixabay
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\n","content":"\nAre you finding clumps of dead grass and debris in your lawn? We’ll teach you how to dethatch your lawn to keep your grass green all season long. This guide contains everything you need to ensure your lawn remains thatch free.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of dead and living material that forms from dead stems, mulch, and plant material and clumps together over time. These clumps usually appear as thick patches on the surface of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThatch has adverse effects on your lawn, attracting pests and harmful bacteria, making your yard less drought-tolerant over time.
\n\n\n\nPower rakes are effective tools for dethatching small lawns. Use a rake with rotating wire tines to cut through clumps of grass.
\n\n\n\nFor larger lawns with a thick layer of thatch, it’s better to use a mower. Vertical mowers contain blades that are perpendicular to the grass. The verticutter will rip through thatch as you go without damaging the grass blades, minimizing the presence of thatch on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou may need to trim your yard down further than you were expecting. If that’s the case, you’ll need to overseed your grass to make up for the thin layer of grass left behind.
\n\n\n\nAeration is an essential part of lawn maintenance. Aerators dig holes into your soil, allowing your grass to breathe. Aerating your lawn reduces clumping and minimizes the presence of thatch.
\n\n\n\nLiquid dethatchers such as Nature’s Biological Dethatcher are easy to use. Simply apply the solution to the surface of your lawn, and it will break up thatch over time.
\n\n\n\nAdd compost or soil over the top of your yard to break down thatch over time and revitalize your grass.
\n\n\n\nTrowels are small hand tools you can use to dig out the thatch. They’re best for small amounts of thatch and soil buildup.
\n\n\n\nYou can save yourself time and work by preventing thatch before it occurs.
\n\n\n\n1. Monitor soil levels: Test your soil frequently for changes in the pH and alkaline levels. High pH levels are often telltale signs of excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Sensible fertilization: It can be easy for an aspiring green thumb to over-fertilize their lawn. Only use as much fertilizer as you need for a healthy lawn and limit the use of nitrogen-based lawn fertilizers.
\n\n\n\n3. Reduce chemical Use: Using too many chemicals like bug spray can kill the earthworms that naturally control soil compaction. Try to limit the number of chemicals you use on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. Water regularly: A well-hydrated lawn prevents soil compaction, which leads to thatch.
\n\n\n\n5. Maintaining a regular lawn care routine: Make sure to mow your lawn regularly and use weed killer to eliminate weeds that can lead to thatch.
\n\n\n\nOne of the main causes of thatch build-up is over-fertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the grass to grow too quickly, often resulting in thatch.
\n\n\n\nThe type of grass in your yard may be a factor too. Some grasses are more prone to thatching, including Kentucky bluegrass, zoysiagrass, creeping red fescue, and creeping bentgrass.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is a straightforward process and will help promote the overall growth of your lawn. Make sure to include dethatching in your seasonal landscaping routine.
\n\n\n\n1. Which grass types don’t produce as much thatch build-up?
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass and tall fescue tend to bunch up and don’t produce much thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Do grass clippings produce thatch?
\n\n\n\nNo. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not cause thatch to accumulate on your lawn. In fact, the grass clippings are an excellent fertilizer and will prevent thatch because you won’t have to use a nitrogen-based fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n3. When should I remove thatch?
\n\n\n\nRemove thatch in the cooler months; late spring for warm-season grasses, early spring or late fall for cool-season grass types. Avoid removing thatch when your grass isn’t healthy, such as during a drought, as this can cause lasting damage to the turf.
\n\n\n\n4. Are there certain chemicals to avoid to reduce thatch?
\n\n\n\nYes. Fungicides, pesticides, and insecticides have a detrimental effect on your lawn. They kill microorganisms and earthworms and can promote thatch.
\n\n\n\nNot up for DIY lawn work? We can help you find a lawn care pro near you to dethatch, aerate, and mow your lawn, so you’ll have more time to enjoy it.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wikimedia | CC0-1.0
\n","title":"How to Dethatch Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4993742177722154,"src":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1789c/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/107df/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 320w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/293e9/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 500w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/f2cbb/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 800w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1789c/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 960w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/8f507/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 1198w","srcWebp":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1dd6e/rsz_dethatcher2.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/67b76/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 320w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/8df11/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 500w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/98a65/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 800w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1dd6e/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 960w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/2a554/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 1198w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Dethatch Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Dethatching a lawn is crucial to its health. We’ll show you how to dethatch your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"51baf8a4-43de-5e29-844c-efcfb910aeb7","slug":"best-lawn-types-milwaukee","path":"/lawn-care/wi/milwaukee/best-lawn-types-milwaukee/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"b1cda10d-ab68-5c45-b93c-b382b813fb0e","name":"Milwaukee","count":2,"path":"/category/lawn-care/wi/milwaukee/"},{"id":"9503671f-e071-545d-b382-450feba6b3a6","name":"Wisconsin","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/wi/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"After walking across the grass at Lake Park or enjoying the Oak Leaf Trail, you may want to take some of that natural green beauty home with you. We’ve made it easy for you to invite Milwaukee’s organic greenery into your personal space. We highlight the 4 best grass types for Milwaukee’s multiple months of […]
\n","content":"\nAfter walking across the grass at Lake Park or enjoying the Oak Leaf Trail, you may want to take some of that natural green beauty home with you. We’ve made it easy for you to invite Milwaukee’s organic greenery into your personal space. We highlight the 4 best grass types for Milwaukee’s multiple months of shady skies, cool temperatures, and freezing winters.
\n\n\n\nWhether you’re starting a new lawn or improving an existing one, you have two categories of grass to choose from: warm-season and cool-season. Cool-season grasses are the best selection for the Milwaukee area.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses green up and grow when the weather is warm, which is between late spring and early summer. Cool-season grasses green up sooner in spring than warm-season grasses and retain their green color longer in Milwaukee. Cool-season grasses thrive best when air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees. Warm-season grasses go brown and dormant in the winter, while cool-season grasses go dormant later in the winter than warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses were built for the Milwaukee climate, where temperatures are usually between 18 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit. The grass survives Milwaukee’s below 40-degree winter cold. Since cool-season grass goes dormant when the weather is consistently below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, it may retain its colors through part of the Milwaukee winter.
\n\n\n\nHere are the four best types of cool-season grass for your Milwaukee home:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is the most commonly used grass in Wisconsin lawns. It’s great for lawns with dead spots because it expands and develops new grass to cover up unsightly bald patches. Although it goes brown faster than most other grass varieties during a drought, Kentucky bluegrass can stay alive for up to 60 days in this condition.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass has a strong dark green color and lives for the moist, cool weather of Milwaukee. It requires a lot of maintenance, but it helps prevent erosion. If you don’t mind the high fertilizer needs, and enjoy the exercise from mowing, Kentucky bluegrass will work well for your home.
\n\n\n\nThe long months of cloudy Milwaukee skies are probably more than enough shade for this grass, as it has moderate shade tolerance. This variety grows best on properties that get a lot of sun. With its moderate foot traffic tolerance and soft texture, Kentucky bluegrass is a good option for outdoor events.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass is more tolerant of the snow mold that is sometimes found on Wisconsin lawns than tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, but not as resistant as fine fescue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing frequency and high fertilization needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to several diseases, such as dollar spot, leaf spot, necrotic ring spot, summer patch, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Performs best in well-drained, heavy soils with high fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Used in most pastures in the northeastern part of the country because it tolerates heavy grazing. Varieties developed for lawn use need more watering, dethatching, and fertilization than varieties used for animal feeding.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Red-Fescue-a-species-of-fine-fescue.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matt Lavin / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFine fescue is a great choice to stand up against the Milwaukee snow. Fine fescue is more resistant to snow mold than Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass. For the most tolerant variety, use hard fescue. Sheep fescue and red fescue are moderately tolerant, while chewings fescue will leave your lawn vulnerable to the gray and pink snow mold that have historically damaged Milwaukee lawns.
\n\n\n\nSince it’s the most shade-tolerant cool-season grass, it will grow better on properties with a lot of trees or buildings blocking the sunlight than most other cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue is often found blended with other grasses and is a good choice for lawns with areas that need reseeding. But your yard may appear a little multicolored, as fine fescue can have a green color lighter than other grasses, and even has a blueish-greenish look.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a soft texture, but low to moderate traffic tolerance. It’s not the best grass for regular badminton games even though it provides a soft cushion for falls. The tradeoff is that it’s low maintenance. If you need a lawn that looks well-kept and manicured without a lot of work, and you don’t have a lot of activity in your yard, fine fescue grass is well-suited for your Milwaukee home.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Creeping red fescue spreads by rhizomes, while other fine fescues are bunch-type grasses, such as chewing, hard, and sheep fescues.
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High, depending on species
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to Moderate, depending on species
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low fertilizer and mowing needs.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height between 2.5 and 4.0 inches, depending on species.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate. Common diseases include red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Will not perform well in wet soil conditions. Prefers drier soils and tolerates a wide range of soil types and fertility.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fine fescue is prone to thatch. It may require dethatching every few years. Chewings is the most shade-tolerant fine fescue species but the most susceptible to snow mold.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHomeowners love to mix this grass because it germinates quickly and produces a full, green canvas. This quick growth is ideal for the short Milwaukee summers.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass has a low tolerance to heat, cold, and drought, but works well with other grasses that are adapted to the cold, like Kentucky bluegrass. It’s recommended that perennial ryegrass is combined with other grasses and not used predominantly.
\n\n\n\nAlthough perennial ryegrass prefers soil with good drainage, it tolerates some poor drainage, making it a good choice for the Milwaukee area. Milwaukee soil ranges from being poorly drained to well-drained.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass has moderate maintenance needs. It requires less mowing than tall fescue and is more tolerant to traffic than any of the other three types of grass. It’s perfect for homeowners who love to throw weekly lawn parties or host outdoor play dates regularly. This is the grass for back-to-back hide-and-seek games. It doesn’t tolerate the shade well, so if your yard is usually a host to the sun’s rays, perennial ryegrass is a good selection.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate mowing and fertilization requirements. Thatch is not significant.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 1.5 to 2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: High. Common diseases include gray leaf spot, red thread, and leaf spot/melting-out.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: Can grow in soils with a pH between 5 and 8, but prefers between 6 and 7.
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Prefers good drainage and fertility, but can tolerate some poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Mix with Kentucky bluegrass for a more disease-resistant and traffic-resistant lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe wide leaves of tall fescue grass may lead many to mistake it for weeds. It’s cold and shade-tolerant, and the most heat tolerant of all the cool-season grasses. It grows slower than perennial ryegrass, so if you’re looking to establish a lawn more quickly, a blend of perennial ryegrass and one of the other grasses would be better.
\n\n\n\nWhen other grasses are losing their color in winter, tall fescue remains green for longer. This makes it an ideal choice for Milwaukans that like a little green peaking out beneath frosted grass and snow. It’s also a good choice if you need a reason to work in the yard regularly, as it requires frequent mowing.
\n\n\n\nWith its coarse texture, moderate foot traffic tolerance, and tendency to slowly recover from damage, tall fescue is not the best choice for yards full of children playing.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Produces short rhizomes but has a bunch-type growth habit
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate to High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Frequent mowing. Does not produce significant thatch.
\n\n\n\nMowing height: Set mowing height to 2 inches when the grass reaches 3 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Tolerant of most diseases when properly maintained.
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adapted to a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers fertile clay soils with good drainage.
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Remains green during the winter, depending on the variety. Grows slower than perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nThe best time to plant grass seed is between mid-August to mid-September. The warm soil and cooler air temperatures during this time of year help with seed growth. This gives the seed several months to germinate before the cold winter temperatures.
Cool-season grasses go dormant when the soil temperature stays below 45 degrees Fahrenheit consistently. They also go dormant during the summer if it is dry too long or gets too hot. Watering the grass in the summer helps prevent it from going into dormancy and, fortunately, Milwaukee doesn’t get extremely hot.
Fine fescue grasses are low-maintenance. This drought-resistant grass has less mowing, fertilization, and watering needs than other cool-season grasses.
Each type of grass has its own tolerances and conditions for the best growth. Look for a grass type that fits your yard’s properties and your lifestyle. If your lawn has a lot of trees or buildings casting a lot of shade, you’ll want grass that tolerates the shade, such as fine fescue. If you’re prone to experiencing snow mold on your lawn, which can be severely damaging, choose a fine fescue variety like hard fescue.
\n\n\n\nYour soil type, foot traffic, and how much time you want to spend taking care of your lawn all factor into the decision of which type of grass to select. If you’re the house in the neighborhood where children are routinely playing a game of tag, perennial ryegrass is your best choice.
\n\n\n\nPick a grass type that allows you to enjoy the theaters and art galleries in the Historic Third Ward for as long as you desire. That may mean picking a low-maintenance grass and staying away from one that requires frequent mowing and high fertilization, like Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nCall a Milwaukee lawn care professional to get help maintaining a green and thriving lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Hilda and Gustav Pabst House / Lightburst / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Milwaukee","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4962593516209477,"src":"/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/1789c/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg","srcSet":"/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/107df/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg 320w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/293e9/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg 500w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/f2cbb/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg 800w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/1789c/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg 960w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/c26c2/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/1dd6e/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/67b76/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp 320w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/8df11/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp 500w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/98a65/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp 800w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/1dd6e/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp 960w,\n/static/29d9193214edfa55e3734fac34f8a3ff/3cc96/Hilda-and-Gustav-Pabst-House.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Milwaukee","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a lush, green lawn? This guide covers the four best grass types for Milwaukee, including fine fescue and perennial ryegrass."}}},{"node":{"id":"f725b102-82bb-57be-a1bc-8bf8c58376b0","slug":"best-grass-types-houston","path":"/lawn-care/tx/houston/best-grass-types-houston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"656604f4-56e7-55ed-8540-cc48be40652a","name":"Houston","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/houston/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Want a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston: Bermudagrass Seashore Paspalum St. Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass 1. Bermudagrass Popular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has […]
\n","content":"\nWant a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston:
\n\n\n\nPopular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has a coarse to a medium-fine texture. Its wide leaf ranges in color from light green to dark green, depending on the cultivar (or type).
\n\n\n\nClassification: Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems).
Shade tolerance: Bermudagrass prefers full sun at all times.
Drought tolerance: High. Regular rainfall should be enough to water it. This type will go dormant during extended dry periods.
Foot traffic tolerance: Its sturdiness withstands high levels of foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: High. Bermudagrass requires monthly fertilization during the summer. Water as needed to the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Thatch buildup is a threat.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 1 to 2 inches once or twice a week to keep up with its incessant growth rate.
Also resilient in saltwater environments is seashore paspalum. Great for waterfront properties, this type is low-growing and has pointy, medium-coarse blades and a blue-green hue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Prefers full sun, but can withstand shade better than Bermudagrass.
Drought tolerance: Low. Seashore paspalum prefers very moist growing environments. Due to its high saline tolerance, you can use saltwater in irrigation.
Foot traffic tolerance: High. Seashore paspalum’s dense turf stands up well to heavy foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: Requires little fertilization throughout the growing season. Over-fertilizing can lead to scalping, which exposes the grass’s roots, opening it up to disease, stress, and stunted growth.
Recommended mowing height: For a well-manicured, dense lawn, mow to a height of 1 inch.
With its dark green color and curved, wide leaf, St. Augustinegrass is another favorite among Houstonians. This salt-resistant grass is one of the most selected options for lawns in the Houston area.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons.
Shade tolerance: Unlike most other warm-season types, St. Augustinegrass is able to thrive in shade.
Drought tolerance: Some degree of drought tolerance, but will begin to show stress during long periods of dryness.
Foot traffic tolerance: Light. Regular lawn foot traffic is no problem.
Maintenance needs: Fertilize every eight to 10 weeks and recycle grass clippings to help provide nutrients to this type of lawn. If rainfall isn’t enough, water to a soil depth of 6 inches when the grass is showing signs of dullness and stress. Over-watering and over-fertilizing can lead to thatch problems.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 2.5 inches.
Zoysiagrass is a popular choice because of its low-maintenance nature. There are many varieties, but Zoysia japonica is one of the best grass types for Houston Lawns. It has a high salt tolerance, pointy leaf blades, and a light- to medium-green color. It turns brown in early winter, going dormant soon after the first frost in November.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Moderate shade won’t bother this turf, but it does grow best in full sun and temperatures of 80 degrees or hotter.
Drought tolerance: Zoysia can withstand periods of drought, but as a dry period lingers, it will go dormant and turn brown. Once watered, it will revert to its green color once again.
Foot traffic tolerance: Zoysiagrass grows well in high-traffic areas.
Maintenance needs: Low. Fertilize with about two pounds of nitrogen a year, and water about 1 inch a week during the growing season.
Recommended mowing height: Keep mower blades sharpened to tackle these stiff leaves, and cut to a height of 1 to 2 inches weekly.
1. When is the best time to plant grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nEarly March to late May, when the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees. This is the best time for warm-season grasses to germinate and become established in time for the first frost.
\n\n\n\n2. Can I plant a cool-season grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should wait until September when the ground is a bit cooler (about 50 degrees.) Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue will give you a greener lawn in the winter, but will not do well in the heat and humidity of the summer.
\n\n\n\n3. Is there such a thing as a no mow grass for Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, buffalograss is one of the easiest grasses to care for. It’s one of the best grass types for Houston since It only needs occasional mowing and is extremely drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have the time or energy to replant or reseed your lawn, we’ll find a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
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\n","content":"\nHave you noticed dry or dead spots of grass on your lawn? Are you finding yellow patches that turn brown even though your grass is getting plenty of sun and water? Then you may need to know how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can see the tiny black and white (or sometimes reddish-brown) bugs sucking the sap out of your lawn. While they don’t bite people, chinch bugs sometimes mistake hair follicles for blades of grass. That’s when you’ll find yourself scratching your head, trying to figure out how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nAdult chinch bugs are less than half an inch long with dark red or black bodies and white wings or clear wings with frosty white tips. Baby chinch bugs or nymphs are much smaller and sometimes orange. They use their pointy mouths or proboscis like a straw to suck the life out of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are 27 varieties of chinch bugs, four of which are common to parts of the United States. The most common chinch bug (blissus leucopterus) infests lawns nationwide, while the southern chinch bug prefers St. Augustinegrass commonly found in Texas and Florida.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re not sure if the brown patches in your yard are caused by chinch bugs or drought, check for additional signs:
\n\n\n\nChinch bug infestations can be tough to manage. Unlike some pests, they don’t die off in the cold and instead overwinter in your shrubs, bushes, and in the soil. These insects are resistant to many common pesticides. You may have to try several because your grass will not recover on its own.
\n\n\n\nChemical pesticides can be a danger for pets. So keep cats and dogs safe by following the directions on the label and keeping them out of the area until the pesticides dry.
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14598977033_b78e3f956c_c.jpg\")
The easiest way to prevent chinch bugs and other pests is by maintaining good lawn care practices. Maintaining a healthy lawn keeps the chinch bugs and other lawn-destroying insects away.
\n\n\n\nRegular maintenance is just as important when trying to help your lawn recover from chinch bug damage. You’ll need to add a few extra steps to repair the lawn damage.
\n\n\n\nWhen the DIY methods and chemical pesticides fail to get rid of the chinch bug problems, it’s time to call in a lawn care professional, not only to get rid of the pests, but to repair the damage and help restore your dream lawn.
\n\n\n\nNeem oil and insecticidal soaps like Garden Safe and Safe work well. Pesticides containing carbaryl or pyrethroid such as Sevin and Orto Bugclear will also kill chinch bugs.
Yes. Fire ants, spiders, ear wigs, and wasps will help control the chinch bug population in your yard.
In the early afternoon is when you’re more likely to spot chinch bugs on your lawn.
Chinch bugs like hot, drought-like conditions and soil high in nitrogen.
Chinch bugs can infest most grass types, but St. Augustinegrass is their favorite.
Yes. Chinch bugs mistake hair follicles for blades of grass and they will often burrow under a dog’s fur, and insert their sharp mouthparts into the animal’s skin. While this isn’t life-threatening, it does cause uncomfortable itching.
Main photo credit: Jacinta Lluch Valero | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/107df/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/293e9/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/f2cbb/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/c26c2/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/67b76/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/8df11/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/98a65/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/3cc96/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Getting rid of chinch bugs is a cinch if you follow our simple steps to stop the invading pests from setting up camp in your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"8719302c-8e2e-57fd-9765-e22670f44b96","slug":"best-grass-seed-for-overseeding","path":"/blog/best-grass-seed-for-overseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"How do you choose the best grass seed for overseeding? You need to know what grass type you have and then determine whether you want to add to it or use a seed mix or hybrid mix to improve your lawn. In this article, we’ll cover the best grass seed for overseeding your lawn and […]
\n","content":"\nHow do you choose the best grass seed for overseeding? You need to know what grass type you have and then determine whether you want to add to it or use a seed mix or hybrid mix to improve your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover the best grass seed for overseeding your lawn and popular seed mixes and hybrid mixes for a lush, green lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nHere are the six best grass seed varieties for overseeding:
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass grows densely and is resistant to disease. Kentucky bluegrass isn’t as drought-tolerant as other varieties, but bluegrass seed is the most popular because it produces a thick, dark green turf that stands up well to heavy traffic. This grass type is also self-spreading, making it easy to cultivate.
\n\n\n\nFescues are known for their rapid growth, providing quick results. Fescue grass is also drought-resistant and tolerates both sun and shade. Based on the texture you desire, you can choose different varieties of this cool-season grass, such as fine fescue or tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass germinates quickly but requires a lot of water. It does best in the transition zone and works well as an overseed for warm-season grasses. This grass has fine blades and stands up to heavy traffic. Ryegrass seeds are the most popular and typically cost less than other varieties.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Don’t confuse perennial ryegrass with annual ryegrass. Annual ryegrass has a lifespan of only one year. It is more prone to diseases and lawn pests than perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a warm-season grass that’s drought-tolerant and devoted to the sun, so it thrives in the southern parts of the country. While this grass variety will produce a low-maintenance green lawn, it has its drawbacks. Cold temperatures and shade means it’s not the best grass seed for overseeding in the North.
\n\n\n\nA warm-season grass, buffalograss is slower to green than other grass types but requires minimal maintenance. This variety is popular across the Great Plains as well as the Midwest.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is well-suited to the transition zone and southern U.S. It’s a warm-season variety that tolerates colder temperatures and heavy foot traffic. Zoysiagrass prefers the sun and does well with little water, producing a dense turf.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find all sorts of hybrid grasses and seed mixes at your local home supply store and online retailers. Seed mixtures are designed to extend the life of your lawn, providing greenery in both the warmer and cooler months. Hybrids and other modifications support germination as well as the health and growth of new grass.
\n\n\n\nLook for seeds with a coating to retain moisture. This modification helps seeds germinate quickly and effectively once they’ve made soil contact. This will speed up the process, giving you the results you’re looking for faster.
\n\n\n\nBefore you lug out the spreader, rake, hose, and other tools to overseed your lawn, you need to decide what type of seed is best for your yard.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is doing well, you should overseed with the same grass type. The new seed will repair damage due to heavy traffic or unusual drought.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is struggling due to too much or not enough sun exposure, prolonged water issues, or other environmental factors, you’re better off overseeding with a different grass type. Mixing seeds with different qualities will produce a vibrant and healthy yard throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are best suited to hot temperatures and lots of sun, so they grow best in southern states. These grass types are green and lush when temps are around 75 to 90 degrees. In the fall and winter, when temperatures drop, warm-season grasses lie dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses thrive in northern states. These varieties do well with temperature fluctuations, lying dormant in cold weather. Cool-season grasses perk up in the spring, growing best when temps are between 60 and 70 degrees.
\n\n\n\n1. What happens if I use the wrong grass seed?
\n\n\n\nYour lawn may look awkward with different textured grass types, or the seed just won’t sprout. You’ll need to overseed again next year to correct the lawn’s appearance.
\n\n\n\nDifferent grass varieties also grow at different rates. Perennial ryegrass and fine fescues are quick to sprout. Creeping red fescue and chewing fescue are much slower, so a mixture will give you an uneven lawn.
\n\n\n\n2. Should I fertilize the lawn right after I overseed?
\n\n\n\nNo. Hopefully, you’ve already fertilized your lawn in the spring. Fertilizing right before or right after overseeding forces the seeds to compete with the existing grass for nutrients. It may also encourage crabgrass growth which will compete with your grass seeds as well.
\n\n\n\n3. How long do I have to wait to walk on the lawn after I overseed?
\n\n\n\nWait at least two weeks, but longer if possible. You should limit the use of your lawn until the new seed has grown to about the same height as your existing grass, about 3-4 inches. This is when you can mow the grass for the first time and resume regular use. In total, it will take about three to four weeks.
\n\n\n\nOverwhelmed by all the grass seed choices? We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who will overseed, dethatch, aerate and mow your lawn, so you have time to relax and enjoy it.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
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