![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bermudagrass-2.jpg\")
Corpus Christi’s average temperatures range from 50 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This Southeast Texas beach town is the heart and soul of the Gulf Coast. Named the “Birdiest City in North America,” Corpus Christi has a humid subtropical climate with mild winters that cater to wildlife year-round. The best grass types for Corpus Christi thrive […]
\n","content":"\nCorpus Christi’s average temperatures range from 50 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This Southeast Texas beach town is the heart and soul of the Gulf Coast. Named the “Birdiest City in North America,” Corpus Christi has a humid subtropical climate with mild winters that cater to wildlife year-round. The best grass types for Corpus Christi thrive in the city’s long, hot summers. If you are installing a new lawn or looking to freshen up your existing yard, consider one of these options for your Gulf Coast landscape.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTexas and heat go hand-in-hand, and this time we aren’t talking about barbecue. It’s no surprise that the ninth hottest city in Texas benefits from sun-loving native plants and warm-season grass cultivars that prefer growing temperatures between 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses come from tropical regions, making them well-adapted to Corpus Christi’s humid climate. These turfgrasses soak up the sun and actively grow year-round in Southeast Texas, though growth slows during the milder winter months.
\n\n\n\nAll types of grass are classified into one of two categories:
\n\n\n\nThe following warm-season grass types are perfectly suited for the climatic and soil conditions of Corpus Christi:
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Bidgee / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a common warm-season turfgrass that ranges from coarse to fine-textured and withstands salt, drought, and heavy traffic. It is the most popular Texas grass variety and a versatile option used for everything from athletic fields and golf courses to home lawns and parks. Cultivars recover quickly from damage, leading some to consider it an aggressive species.
\n\n\n\nCorpus Christi is home to common and hybrid bermudagrass varieties. Common bermudagrass has a light green color and coarse texture, while hybrid cultivars have a finer texture and dark green appearance. Hybrid varieties require more maintenance than common bermudagrass, but they are more dense forming a carpet-like layer.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease; prone to spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, and sheath spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance; prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/St-Augustinegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 US
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is native to warm coastal regions. It is the most shade-tolerant warm-season cultivar. St. Augustinegrass has an attractive dense appearance and deep roots that make it moderately drought and salt-tolerant. Unfortunately, this turfgrass struggles during bouts of cold weather and does not tolerate heavy traffic or herbicides well.
\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass is quick-growing and has an enviable blue-green color. The most popular cultivars in Texas are Raleigh, Palmetto, and Floratam. Both Raleigh and Palmetto have a high cold and frost resistance compared to other St. Augustine varieties. All cultivars are susceptible to disease and pests like chinch bugs.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate shade tolerance, among the highest of any warm-season grass; some cultivars are more shade tolerant than others
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate to high mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2.5-4 inches (mow dwarf varieties from 2.5-3 inches; standard cultivars from 3-4 inches; mow tall in shade)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; prone to gray leaf spot, large patch, and take-all root rot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: High; prone to chinch bugs, cutworms, mole crickets, grass loopers, armyworms, webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates many soil types; prefers moderately fertile and moist (not waterlogged) soils; not a highly drought-tolerant grass; doesn’t tolerate soil compaction
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Native to coastal areas across the world and prefers moist soils and mild winters; will thrive in more inland areas provided growing conditions are met; good salt tolerance; will go dormant during winter in all but the southernmost regions
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Zoysia-grass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nTexas is home to around 11 cultivars of Zoysiagrass. These grasses tolerate low mow heights, drought, cold, shade, and heavy traffic, and have low fertilization requirements. New cultivars have increased disease and pest resistance. Zoysiagrass grows densely, blocking out weed growth thanks to thick stiff leaf blades.
\n\n\n\nSimilar to St. Augustinegrass’ carpet-like appearance, Zoysiagrass is recognizable for its dense appearance and dark green color. Fortunately, cultivars are not prone to disease or insect infestations and grow slowly.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and lead spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, armyworms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass-1-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is another slow-growing cultivar with a tight growing pattern and fine leaf blades. The low-maintenance turfgrass is prone to disease and pests when improperly maintained and over watered. It is a smooth, flat-bladed grass that likes to be left alone.
\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass has a pronounced light green color and a medium texture. Cultivars require little mowing, fertilization, or water to remain green. This turfgrass handles shade but prefers full sun like most warm-season grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate — at least six hours of full sun per day
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; prone to centipedegrass decline and iron chlorosis
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; prone to ground pearl insects, grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, and lawn caterpillars
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5-6
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Acidic, infertile, at least moderately good drainage (very dense, clay soils produce poor results)
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Low maintenance once established; greenish-yellow color (like a green apple) during the growing season; low fertilizer and mowing requirements; not a salt-tolerant grass
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/buffalograss.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nNative plants are always a desirable choice for any landscape. Buffalograss is a Texas native turfgrass that loves the sun. The warm-season grass is drought and cold-tolerant and requires little fertilization and less mowing than most varieties.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss loves long hot summers and its gray-green blades are pest and disease resistant. Unfortunately, the low-fuss cultivar does not stand up to heavy traffic, shade, or weeds.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low — best suited for full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low, but light use or rare heavy use is OK
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency — once per week or less
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches or leave unmowed
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; bipolaris leaf spot may occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mealybugs, buffalograss webworms, mites, short-tailed crickets, and chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Native soils, not sandy soils
\n\n\n\n![\"close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Seashore-Paspalum-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum is similar to bermudagrass but has quicker root development. This warm-season cultivar is extremely salt-tolerant and grows in all types of soil. Like bermudagrass, it has an aggressive growth habit and coarse blades with a dense root system.
\n\n\n\nSeashore paspalum is light to medium green in color and requires frequent mowing to maintain a low height. This popular coastal turfgrass tolerates hot temperatures, drought, shade, and heavy traffic. It has the lowest nitrogen requirements of any warm-season turfgrass. Unfortunately, seashore paspalum cultivars are more expensive than other varieties.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; moderate water and fertilization needs
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; fusarium blight and Helminthosporium disease may occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mole crickets, sod webworms, spittlebugs, white grubs, billbugs, cutworms, and fall armyworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 4.5-9.0
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable; does not prefer a specific soil type
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Sensitive to dull mower blades and prone to injury from tearing
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow best when the Texas temperatures hit 80 degrees Fahrenheit, usually toward the beginning of May. The growing season typically slows when temperatures dip below 80 degrees Fahrenheit around the end of October.
Texas turfgrasses typically go dormant when temperatures drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit around mid-November, though this does not always occur in Corpus Christi.
You should plant your grass seed in March or April. This gives the seed plenty of time to germinate before the hot Texas summer.
St. Augustinegrass and seashore paspalum are the most shade-friendly grass types for Corpus Christi.
Dogs and cats love to soak up the summer sun as much as your Texas plants. If your furry friend spends a lot of time outdoors, bermudagrass and seashore paspalum are your best options. These varieties grow densely, withstand heavy traffic, and recover quickly when man’s best friend has the urge to dig.
All Texas grass cultivars have different characteristics and needs. Choose a variety that works well for your lifestyle and your yard’s microclimate. Warm-season varieties are the best option for your Corpus Christi lawn. They are suited to Southeast Texas’ unique USDA Zones, 9a, 9b, and 10a.
\n\n\n\nCorpus Christi’s year-round warm weather lends itself to numerous landscaping options. Beat the heat with our list of low-maintenance landscaping ideas or batten down the hatches and gear up for the Gulf’s hurricane season with hurricane-resistant landscaping options.
A lush backyard oasis is within reach. Contact a Corpus Christi lawn care pro today to keep your lawn and landscaping healthy.
Main Image Credit: Wozzy25 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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\n","content":"\nPumpkin spice lattes, fans flocking to watch the Blue Raiders, and hiking trails full of changing fall leaves are just a few of the `Boro’s fall favorites. With temperatures in the 70s and college football just around the corner, the last thing you want to do is mow your lawn. However, successful spring lawn care begins in the fall, and September is a crucial month for fertilizer. Follow our fall lawn care checklist to maintain your lawn and prepare it for the winter playoff season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nResidents love Tennessee’s mild autumns. The southern state is in the transition zone, and both warm and cool-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Proper fall lawn care from September through November sets the foundation for your landscape during the winter months and spring green-up. Proper maintenance during these cool transition months helps your lawn grow deeper, stronger roots.
\n\n\n\nFall lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s mild fall gives way to a short, cold, and wet winter, causing some cool-season grass cultivars and most warm-season grass cultivars to go dormant, developing thatch. Thatch is the tight, intermingled layer of dead grass, living grass blades, and roots that accumulate above soil level but below eye line visibility. Thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nDethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Watch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately to avoid suffocating your turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to identify your grass variety. Tennessee cool-season grass cultivars like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass actively grow in the fall and early spring. Warm-season varieties such as bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass hit their green-up phase in late spring and summer. Dethatch your cool-season lawn in early fall and save your warm-season cultivar dethatching session for spring.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. Aeration is a common method to introduce this element back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nThere are two types of common aeration: core aeration and spike aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass and mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators extract cores of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover cores of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, reducing compaction, increasing air exchange, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators poke small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/rsz_soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nEarly fall is one of the best times to test your soil to ensure it has all the nutrients it needs to thrive. Middle Tennessee is home to many soil types and some are nutrient deficient. It is important to understand exactly what nutrients your grass is lacking. Murfreesboro homeowners should send in a soil sample for testing in September.
\n\n\n\nSimply send in a one-cup core sample to receive your results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications and lime for soil pH imbalances.
\n\n\n\n![\"Thick](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/green-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nLate summer and early fall are the best times to seed your cool-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while spring is the best time to seed warm-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are cool-season cultivars that respond well to fall overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your cool-season Tennessee lawn in late August or early September. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet.
\n\n\n\nDepending on your turfgrass cultivar, a fall fertilizer application promotes deep roots and sets your grass up for success during its fall green-up or winter dormancy period. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can harm your landscape, so it is important to start with a soil test. The best time to apply fertilizer depends on your turfgrass cultivar, while the best type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your unique soil sample test results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 5-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nFall is the best time to fertilize cool-season grass cultivars like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass as they hit their active growing season. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn on Sept. 1, Oct. 15, and Nov. 15 to improve root depth and turf density. Be sure to select a fertilizer that satisfies your soil test results with the proper N-P-K ratio.
\n\n\n\nA fall fertilizer application helps warm-season turfgrasses like centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass resist winter weeds and improves turf color and spring recovery rates. Fertilize your warm-season lawn with 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn around Sept. 1. Pay attention to the potassium and phosphorus needs on your soil test results and select a low-nitrogen, high-potassium or phosphorus blend, if needed.
\n\n\n\nLime is a fall soil amendment like fertilizer composed of limestone rock ground into powder. It contains calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The addition of lime to your turfgrass increases nutrients and soil alkalinity, spreading beneficial bacteria. The ideal pH for your soil depends on the type of turfgrass in your landscape. Apply lime in September, October, or November if your soil test recommends it.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Ideal pH Range |
| Bermudagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Centipedegrass | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Fine Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 6.0 – 7.0 |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Tall Fescue | 6.0 – 6.5 |
| Zoysiagrass | 6.0 – 6.5 |
![\"Red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mow-More-Cut-Less.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\nThe `Boro’s subtropical climate and four distinct seasons make for interesting weather, especially in the fall. The city’s autumns are warm with a 49% chance of cloud cover and give way to short, wet, and cold winters. Your grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height.
\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, it is tempting to mow your lawn short and make less work for yourself, but most grass types benefit from longer grass blades in the fall. Cutting your grass short leaves it vulnerable to injury, weeds, and cold stress. Taller grass blades develop deeper roots, setting your lawn up for winter success and a better spring green-up.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass benefit from higher mowing heights in the fall to increase insulation and encourage deeper roots before winter.
\n\n\n\nRaise the height of your cut by a half inch in mid-September. Continue mowing through fall until the first frost. To avoid injuring your lawn, never mow low or scalp your lawn in the fall, and never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade.
\n\n\n\nYou should mow every seven to 14 days within the recommended range for your grass type. Do not collect clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn. Always aim to cut less, more often.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their active growth phase in the early fall after summer dormancy
\n\n\n\nMow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during fall. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
No matter what variety of turfgrass your lawn has, Murfreesboro lawns seldom need daily irrigating in the fall unless it is brand new. Water as needed early in the morning throughout fall. Winters in the `Boro are usually wet, providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all Tennessee turfgrass varieties twice per week if it hasn’t rained, aiming for a half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nYour best defense against lawn disease is routine maintenance, including watering, fertilization, and proper mowing heights. Tennessee’s mild fall temperatures and subtropical climate create the perfect environment for lawn diseases and fungi, including large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, rust, nematodes, and stripe smut.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus that appears as brown, circular patches several feet in diameter. This disease affects bermudagrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue. It does not respond well to fungicides. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMonitor patches and improve drainage and air movement. Limit fertilization in affected areas and avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot is caused by a Tennessee soil-dwelling fungus that thrives in the warm, moist weather of spring and fall. It affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nFairy rings, caused by mushroom or puffball-producing fungi, affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. Be on the lookout for an arc or ring of dead grass surrounded by healthy grass. Many infections also produce mushrooms or puffballs around the ring.
\n\n\n\nLike large patch, fairy rings do not respond well to fungicides. Till or remove the soil around the affected area and reseed for severe infestations. For mild infestations, remove thatch, aerate, and perform routine maintenance, ensuring proper irrigation.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during cool, moist fall weather, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. These unsegmented roundworms need moisture to survive, and populations peak in the fall. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots.
\n\n\n\nWatch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass. Spores germinate through moisture and dew, and active infections pop up throughout spring into fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf.
\n\n\n\nTreat rust using a fungicide, and prevent this Tennessee turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions to minimize leaf moisture.
\n\n\n\nStripe smut is a fungus affecting Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. It is a serious fall disease causing stunted root growth, stiff and erect leaf blades, and a yellow and brown appearance.
\n\n\n\nOnce an outbreak occurs, smut fungus grows rapidly in fall temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Treat the turfgrass disease with proper lawn maintenance, including infrequent but deep waterings and proper fertilization. Fungicide applications can help reduce active infections.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Common-Chickweed.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Lazaregagnidze / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nWeeds love Murfreesboro’s subtropical climate. These pests signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health, including low-nitrogen levels, imbalanced pH, and thinning turf. Weeds siphon vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your turfgrass and spread pests and diseases. Two common methods of weed control include post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nAll cool-season Tennessee turfgrasses, including tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass benefit from a fall application of pre-emergent herbicide designed to kill seeds before germination. Additionally, both Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass benefit from a September pre-emergent herbicide application to control annual bluegrass, a common Tennessee weed.
\n\n\n\nWhile these herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds, they will help control the emergence of new winter annual and perennial broadleaf and grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter grassy weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth of winter broadleaf weeds that become a nuisance during Murfreesboro falls. Always apply the herbicide directly to the active weed. Wait 30 days between applications, and never apply more than two applications per year.
\n\n\n\nCommon winter broadleaf weeds in Murfreesboro:
\n\n\n\n![\"raking](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/pxfuel.com-4-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxfuel
\n\n\n\nLocations with four seasons like Murfreesboro attract many homeowners with promises of warm summers, changing fall foliage, and a chance for a white Christmas. Watching leaves change from green to autumn gold, bronze, and red is something to look forward to as you sip your pumpkin spice latte and gear up for Friday night football. Unfortunately, the colorful leaves drop to the ground, creating a fluffy and crunchy layer over your lawn.
\n\n\n\nLeaves block out the sun, trap moisture, reduce airflow, and lead to dead spots of turfgrass. They increase pest problems and spread disease, so be sure to remove them as soon as possible. Wait until the leaves are dry to rake and prepare to rake your lawn before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nBe sure to remove the leaves and layer of thatch left behind. It does not matter if you rake as your leaves fall or wait until all the leaves in your yard have fallen.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost homeowners can stop mowing their warm-season Murfreesboro lawns in mid-October. These cultivars include bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass.
Homeowners with cool-season varieties, including Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue, can typically stop mowing after the first frost in early December.
Warm-season turf gasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass will go dormant during the end of fall and the beginning of winter. These cultivars dry out and turn brown.
The best way to determine if your grass is dormant is by pulling on it. If the grass comes out of the ground easily, it is likely dead. However, if there is resistance from deep roots when you pull on your grass, it is dormant.
No. While some homeowners overseed their warm-season grass with perennial ryegrass to maintain a year-round green lawn, it is not recommended for healthy warm-season turfgrass. The ryegrass slows spring green-up, competing with your warm-season turfgrass and stealing vital nutrients. It is best to allow your warm-season grass to enter natural dormancy during the cold winter months. Warm-season Tennessee turfgrasses include Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and centipedegrass.
Mild fall weather creates a prime environment for routine yard work that will set your lawn up to take on the wet, cold Tennessee winter and prepare it for a better green-up in the spring. Be sure to check out our spring lawn care tips to get a jump start on what you can expect from your long-term maintenance plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you are short on time and would rather watch football or hit the trails, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your lawn establish deep roots so it can survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Tarpely Farm-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.606425702811245,"src":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/107df/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/293e9/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/f2cbb/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1789c/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/c26c2/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/67b76/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 320w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/8df11/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 500w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/98a65/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 800w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/1dd6e/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 960w,\n/static/6c339f5887a463f982079d568b2f34fe/3cc96/Searcy_%25E2%2580%2593_Matthews_%25E2%2580%2593_Tarpley_Farm_-Murfreesboro_TN.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Fall Lawn Care Checklist for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 11 valuable tips for maintaining a fall lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the cold Tennessee winters."}}},{"node":{"id":"717f3222-5545-5589-bbfc-7a4cdaac71f4","slug":"spring-lawn-care-tips-murfreesboro","path":"/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/spring-lawn-care-tips-murfreesboro/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"27e940f6-30a2-50ad-939d-b73973245b23","name":"Murfreesboro","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/murfreesboro/"},{"id":"5b679b70-01bd-54c3-aa31-693dd631b9f5","name":"Tennessee","count":11,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tn/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"The `Boro shares its parks and restaurants with 25,000 Middle Tennessee State University students for most of the year. Situated 35 miles southeast of downtown Nashville, Murfreesboro’s warmer spring temperatures, ranging from 57 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit, bring students and residents outdoors. Execute our 10 spring lawn care tips and take advantage of the pleasant […]
\n","content":"\nThe `Boro shares its parks and restaurants with 25,000 Middle Tennessee State University students for most of the year. Situated 35 miles southeast of downtown Nashville, Murfreesboro’s warmer spring temperatures, ranging from 57 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit, bring students and residents outdoors. Execute our 10 spring lawn care tips and take advantage of the pleasant weather to prepare your yard for the humid summer just around the corner.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTennessee is in the transition zone, and both cool and warm-season grass varieties grow well in its soils. Spring in Murfreesboro hits the sweet spot between not too hot and not too cold. Average March temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit gradually increase to 80 degrees by May, setting off the active growing season for many Tennessee native plants and grasses.
\n\n\n\nTennesseeans care for their warm or cool-season grasses from March to May, hoping to encourage fresh growth before the heat and humidity take over in June. Spring lawn care is more than mowing your lawn and setting the timer on your irrigation system. As your yard goes through its most active growing season, you need to be on the lookout for diseases, pests, and bare spots. With the proper spring maintenance plan, your lawn will be ready to take on the Tennessee summer.
\n\n\n\nSpring lawn care benefits include:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatch-Your-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Rawpixel
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro winters are short, cold, and very wet, causing warm-season grass cultivars and even some cool-season cultivars to go dormant and develop thatch. Thatch is the tight layer of dead grass intertwined with living grass blades and roots that accumulates just above your soil level and below eye line visibility. A thin layer of thatch insulates grass roots and makes your turfgrass more resilient, but too much of a good thing is a bad thing.
\n\n\n\nDense thatch causes:
\n\n\n\nWatch for thatch that is a half inch or more thick, spongy turf, footprints, increased pest activity, and active diseases. Aim to dethatch your lawn during its active growing season using a dethatcher, also known as a lawn scarifier. Dethatchers work like a complex rake to remove thatch, bringing it to the surface of your lawn for collection. Always remove the loose layer of thatch immediately.
\n\n\n\nTennessee warm-season grass cultivars like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass actively grow in late spring and summer. Cool-season varieties such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass hit their green-up phases in early spring and again in the fall. It is important to understand your grass variety. Dethatch your warm-season lawn in mid-spring to early summer and save your cool-season cultivar dethatching session for fall.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro receives around 54 inches of rain per year, well over the national average of 38 inches. Springtime is notoriously wet in the `Boro with precipitation occurring in 30% of the days. Aeration is a common method to introduce oxygen back into struggling lawns with restricted root growth, allowing for water and nutrients to permeate more easily.
\n\n\n\nOxygen allows your turfgrass to establish deep roots and a dense appearance. There are two types of common aeration: spike aeration and core aeration. Aim to aerate your Murfreesboro lawn to stimulate root growth following your dethatching schedule: mid-spring to early summer for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass, and early fall for cool-season varieties like fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nSpike aerators create small holes in the ground with a rotating punch. This method does not remove material from the soil, so there is no chance of natural de-thatching.
\n\n\n\nCore aerators remove plugs of soil to create small holes so the soil can breathe. This method leaves leftover plugs of soil on the surface of your lawn, adding beneficial nutrients and microorganisms to decrease thatch naturally.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration is the best method for the middle Tennessee region with its well-drained loam, limestone, or clay-based soils. These alkaline soils retain less moisture, heat more quickly, and have an abundance of phosphorus. Core aerators do a better job of breaking up sand or rock particles, creating airflow, and improving water and nutrient access.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/CSIRO_ScienceImage_1739_Testing_soil_pH.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\nPlants and turfgrasses growing in loam soil require regular fertilization and irrigation. Spring soil preparation is crucial to the success of your Murfreesboro landscape. Proper preparation provides nutrients for your grass to thrive, even in the deficient soils of middle Tennessee. Residents should send in a soil sample for testing in March or September.
\n\n\n\nMail in a one-cup sample, collected and combined from different areas of your lawn, to receive your unique results detailing amendments you can make to improve your soil. Common amendments include lime for soil pH imbalances and nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus applications.
\n\n\n\nHealthy lawns resist insects, weeds, and diseases, and taller grass blades develop deeper roots and a dense appearance. Mowing is necessary for maintenance, but it stresses your turfgrass, leaving it more susceptible to pests, drought, and sunscald. Murfreesboro’s warm, wet springs kick-start the active growing season for most plants and warm-season turfgrasses in March.
\n\n\n\nYour grass variety determines your unique mowing schedule and lawn height. To avoid injuring your lawn, never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade regardless of your cultivar. and always cut less, more often. You should mow weekly during the active growing season and aim to mow every two weeks during your turfgrass’ off-season.
\n\n\n\nAlways mow within the recommended range for your grass type and leave clippings unless you see large clumps on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bermudagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass | 1 – 2 inches |
| Fine Fescue | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Perennial Ryegrass | 1.5 – 2.5 inches |
| Tall Fescue | 2 – 3 inches |
| Zoysiagrass | 0.75 – 1.5 inches |
Bermudagrass, centipedegrass, and Zoysiagrass are all low-maintenance, warm-season cultivars that go dormant during Murfreesboro’s cold winter months. Growth peaks in summer, but the active growing season begins in late spring. Aim to mow every seven to 10 days to maintain the recommended mowing height for your cultivar and encourage deeper roots and a more dense and resilient turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nCool-season Tennessee turfgrasses include fine fescue, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Unlike their warm-season counterparts, these cultivars remain green through most winter months but can go dormant during hot, dry months in the summer.
\n\n\n\nActive growth for cool-season varieties peaks in the early spring and fall. Mow cool-season grasses to their recommended heights every seven days during early spring. Aim to decrease mowing frequency to every 14 days in mid to late spring when growth has slowed.
\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nUnless your lawn is brand new, all grass varieties respond well to the typical conditions of a Murfreesboro spring. The best watering method for Tennessee turfgrasses is as needed early in the morning, starting in May. It is true what they say about April showers bringing May flowers. April in the `Boro is wet, typically providing more than enough precipitation for your plants and turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nYou will know it is time to water your turfgrass when you notice a dark blue-gray color, footprinting, or wilted, folded, or curled leaves. Water all varieties twice per week, aiming for one-half inch of water per session to moisten the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and encourage deeper roots.
\n\n\n\n![\"Weed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Contorl-Weed.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\nMurfreesboro’s subtropical climate and wet spring weather create the optimal habitat for plant growth, including weeds. Weeds signify an underlying problem with your lawn’s health and maintenance plan. They thrive in low-nitrogen soils, imbalanced pH, and thinning damaged turf.
\n\n\n\nWeeds steal nutrients, water, and sunlight from your grass and spread pests and diseases. The best control and prevention method is routine maintenance, coupled with supplemental chemical methods like post-emergent herbicides and pre-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides minimize the number of weeds in your yard by killing seeds before germination. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in mid-March when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit to control grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nLook for solutions containing prodiamine, dithiopyr, benefin, or pendimethalin. Wait 60 days and apply a second application of pre-emergent herbicide in mid to late May.
\n\n\n\nCommon grassy weeds in Murfreesboro include:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides target annual and perennial broadleaf weeds, disrupting their growth. Use these herbicides year-round to target weeds you can see.
\n\n\n\nDo not use post-emergent herbicides if temperatures rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit or fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or if your lawn is moisture stressed. Additionally, be sure to wait a few days after a fresh mow before applying chemical treatments.
\n\n\n\nCommon perennial and annual broadleaf weeds include:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/iStock-1351445035-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Istock
\n\n\n\nDifferent insects invade particular grass cultivars at different times. The most common Murfreesboro springtime pests include chinch bugs, billbugs, and sod webworms.
\n\n\n\nChinch bugs affect most Tennessee turfgrasses. Watch for yellow spots in sunny locations, signifying chinch bug activity. These foliage-seeking insects suck vital plant juices from your turfgrass until fall with peak activity occurring in March or April.
\n\n\n\nDIY collect chinch bugs using a coffee can with both ends removed to create a hollow pipe. Insert the can into the soil inside the affected area. Fill the can with water and leave it for a few days. Chinch bugs will float to the top of the can for removal. If you notice more than 15 chinch bugs per square foot, it is time to call a professional.
\n\n\n\nThere are several species of billbugs affecting Tennessee turfgrasses. Hunting billbugs are a problem for homeowners with Zoysiagrass and centipedegrass, while bluegrass billbugs wreak havoc on Kentucky bluegrass. Watch for irregular-shaped patches of dead turf. Like chinch bugs, billbugs feed on the roots of turfgrasses, sucking vital nutrients from the plant.
\n\n\n\nInfestations are often misdiagnosed as dormancy in middle Tennessee, but billbug activity peaks in the late spring and lasts through summer. Treat billbugs with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin, beta-cyfluthrin, or imidacloprid.
\n\n\n\nSod webworms are the nocturnal larvae of lawn moths. These pests feed on grass blades and create tunnels just below your lawn’s surface. Sod webworms attack most grass cultivars, preferring fescues and bluegrass. Watch for small brown spots of dead turfgrass that rapidly increase in size during dry spells. Treat sod webworms with an insecticide application containing bifenthrin.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bown](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Diseases.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Kris Lord / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nLawn diseases and fungi love Tennessee’s subtropical climate. The best defense against these lawn invaders is routine maintenance, watering, and fertilization for a healthy and dense lawn. Some of the most common diseases affecting Murfreesboro turfgrasses are large patch, dollar spot, helminthosporium diseases, and rust.
\n\n\n\nLarge patch is a fungus affecting many Tennessee turfgrasses, including ryegrass, tall fescue, and bermudagrass. The fungus typically occurs in April or May and lasts through the end of summer in cool-season cultivars. Watch for brown, circular patches several feet in diameter.
\n\n\n\nMost large patch infestations do not respond to fungicide applications. The most effective control and prevention method is proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage and air movement. Monitor patches and limit fertilization in affected areas. Avoid over-watering.
\n\n\n\nDollar spot affects bluegrass, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and Zoysiagrass. It is caused by a fungus living in Tennessee soils. Watch for circular brown or yellow spots that look like dollar coins in spring through fall.
\n\n\n\nLike most fungi, treat dollar spot with proper lawn maintenance. Maintain nitrogen levels by applying a nitrogen-based fertilizer and minimize moisture stress by ensuring proper drainage. Always water deeply and infrequently in the early morning to reduce foliage wetness.
\n\n\n\nHelminthosporium diseases affect all turfgrass species. Numerous fungi species cause these leafspot diseases, affecting grass blades, crowns, or roots. Watch for dark, circular lesions that expand to light-brown dead turf. Most diseases affect roots and crowns, causing turf thinning and fading, especially during dry periods, but occur year-round in Murfreesboro.
\n\n\n\nCombat infections with proper lawn maintenance. Improve air circulation by removing thatch. Avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active. Monitor and fix drainage issues and avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations. Apply a fungicide at the first signs of infection.
\n\n\n\nNematodes affect all Tennessee turfgrasses. The best prevention method is proper lawn maintenance to develop dense roots. Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms. Watch for yellowing and thinning turf, especially during dry periods.
\n\n\n\nNematode populations peak in fall but remain a problem for some homeowners in the spring, and nematodes need moisture to survive. Apply nematicides like Indemnify to affected areas alongside routine lawn maintenance and proper yard drainage.
\n\n\n\nPowdery mildew affects Kentucky bluegrass in the cool, wet months of early spring. This fungus produces a white or gray powdery growth on grass blades. Watch for yellow areas of dying turfgrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat powdery mildew with proper lawn maintenance and fungicide applications. Remove thatch, avoid fertilization and post-emergent weed killers while the disease is active, and monitor and fix drainage issues. Avoid over-watering to prevent active and future infestations.
\n\n\n\nRust is a tissue-dwelling fungus active in spring through fall. Be on the lookout for yellow flecks and raised areas on grass blades and thinning, wilting turf. Rust affects bluegrass, ryegrass, tall fescue, and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\nTreat this turfgrass disease using a fungicide, and prevent the fungus with proper lawn maintenance. Improve drainage, reduce thatch buildup, and increase the time between irrigation sessions.
\n\n\n\nSoil-dwelling fungus, spring dead spot affects Murfreesboro bermudagrass. Keep an eye out for circular patches of dead grass ranging in diameter from 6 inches to several feet. The easiest way to spot spring dead spot is to monitor your lawn during its active growth phase in May. Areas affected by spring dead spot will not go through the growth process.
\n\n\n\nTreat spring dead spot by removing thatch and aggressively aerating affected areas to relieve soil compaction and increase airflow.
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time to seed your warm-season lawn in Murfreesboro, while fall is the best time to seed cool-season cultivars. The active growing season encourages fresh growth, filling in thin and patchy areas.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding involves spreading new grass seed over existing turfgrass to fill thin areas. Bermudagrass and centipedegrass are low-maintenance, warm-season cultivars that respond well to spring overseeding.
\n\n\n\nPrepare to seed your Tennessee lawn in May. Spread 0.5 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet for bermudagrass and 4 ounces per 1,000 square feet for centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass does not respond to overseeding. Instead, plan to replant large bare areas using sod plugs in May. Space plugs 6 to 12 inches apart and water well daily. Keep crabgrass at bay by applying a root-safe pre-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\n![\"man](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Person-spreading-fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply fertilizer to your Murfreesboro turfgrass is March or April, depending on your grass type. Fertilizer promotes healthy growth. The type of fertilizer for your lawn depends on your turfgrass cultivar and your unique soil sample analysis results.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer comprises three primary nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Labels have three numbers, such as 15-10-5, which means the fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Select a fertilizer ratio to satisfy your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that Tennessee’s soil can be high in phosphorus and potassium. It is often unnecessary to apply fertilizer containing one or both of these chemicals. Instead, apply straight nitrogen depending on your soil test results.
\n\n\n\nWarm season grasses such as bermudagrass, centipedegrass and Zoysiagrass only need one spring fertilizer application. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around April 15, but keep in mind that shaded grass requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass need two spring fertilizer applications to prepare the turfgrasses for the hot summer temperatures. Aim to apply 0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet around March 15. Apply a second round of fertilizer around April 15.
\n\n\n\nMature centipedegrass has low nitrogen requirements. Always follow the amendment recommendations from your soil sample test results. Centipedegrass does not respond well to overfertilization, and nitrogen applications are not typically necessary. High nitrogen levels lead to centipedegrass decline, increased insect activity, and thatch accumulation.
\n\n\n\nUse sprinklers or an automatic irrigation system to apply water in 10- to 20-minute segments, once per day, until the seeds have germinated. The germination process typically takes 10 to 14 days in Tennessee. Be sure to skip watering sessions if it rains.
You should stop fertilizing your lawn at least one month before overseeding to give the new seeds a chance to germinate and grow without struggling against actively growing grass.
Additionally, you can apply fertilizer after overseeding, which is the preferred method. Apply a slow-release fertilizer immediately after overseeding or wait two to three weeks and apply a fast-release fertilizer to your newly seeded lawn.
Overwatering your turfgrass stresses your lawn, leading to increased pests and diseases. Watch for these signs you are overwatering your turfgrass:
• Thick layer of thatch over ¾ inch thick
• Fungus growth including mushrooms
• Increased weed growth, including crabgrass and nutsedge
• Signs of pest activity
• Spongy grass and footprint indents
• Pooling water and increased runoff
Murfreesboro homeowners love three things: hitting the trails outdoors, the MTSU Raiders, and donuts. With the proper spring lawn care schedule and our fall lawn care checklist, you can get your lawn ready for summer or winter and save yourself time so you can get up early to grab your donut before spending the day outdoors.
\n\n\n\nIf you need help identifying a pest or lawn disease, contact a Murfreesboro lawn care pro to help your landscape recover and establish deep southern roots.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Benjamine House-Murfreesboro / rossograph / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n","title":"10 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Murfreesboro, TN","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.675977653631285,"src":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1789c/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg","srcSet":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/107df/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 320w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/293e9/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 500w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/f2cbb/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 800w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1789c/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 960w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/c26c2/lawn-in-murfreesboro.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1dd6e/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/67b76/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 320w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/8df11/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 500w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/98a65/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 800w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/1dd6e/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 960w,\n/static/63bf730511326e62892703ad5e97d33e/3cc96/lawn-in-murfreesboro.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"10 Spring Lawn Care Tips for Murfreesboro, TN | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Discover 10 valuable tips for maintaining a green spring lawn in Murfreesboro and prepare your grass for the humid Tennessee summers."}}},{"node":{"id":"89b3a45d-0e55-58cf-9e53-bc52cc2ea16c","slug":"hurricane-resistant-landscaping-st-augustine","path":"/lawn-care/fl/saint-augustine/hurricane-resistant-landscaping-st-augustine/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"After discovering her passion for writing through her beauty blog, Melanie left her engineering job in California, became a freelance writer, and never once looked back. She loves nature and enjoys going on road trips with her husband and their two sons.","name":"Melanie Joseph","id":"f86bf815-f27c-5928-b67e-d3481c2d1e0a","path":"/author/melanie-joseph/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/da91467d5e58d9fc8f1f730b09830569?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"57f1b1d9-6347-5707-b4b6-65e6dd1b393d","name":"Florida","count":46,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"},{"id":"9b5a7cc0-52e4-5870-a456-94b94f3508cb","name":"Saint Augustine","count":3,"path":"/category/lawn-care/fl/saint-augustine/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"As hurricane season approaches, homeowners begin to prepare their homes for potential damage. While many focus on strengthening their home’s structure, they may overlook the importance of hurricane-resistant landscaping. A landscape that’s well-designed will not only add beauty to your home but also provide protection from wind and water damage during a hurricane. By using […]
\n","content":"\nAs hurricane season approaches, homeowners begin to prepare their homes for potential damage. While many focus on strengthening their home’s structure, they may overlook the importance of hurricane-resistant landscaping. A landscape that’s well-designed will not only add beauty to your home but also provide protection from wind and water damage during a hurricane.
\n\n\n\nBy using hurricane-resistant plants, designing windbreaks, and implementing proper maintenance, your landscaping can help reduce the risk of damage to your property. Here are 12 hurricane-resistant landscaping ideas for St. Augustine to help you prepare for the upcoming hurricane season.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can follow these suggestions to make your landscape aesthetically pleasing and capable of enduring the turbulent winds and heavy rainfall that come with the hurricane season:
\n\n\n\nIf your property is situated on the waterfront, it is imperative to construct a seawall. The purpose of seawalls is to shield your home against the unrelenting pummeling of waves and avert erosion. Plus, having a seawall can help you avoid floods during storm surges.
\n\n\n\nWhen selecting a seawall for your property, you must consider various aspects, like the material to use and the associated cost. Opt for a seawall material that can endure the forces of the Atlantic Ocean, such as the following:
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a seawall, the shoreline will progressively erode. This, in turn, can inflict substantial damage to your waterfront property. Apart from helping you prevent flooding of your property during storms, seawalls can save you a considerable amount of money in terms of repairs. Hence, it’s crucial not to use materials that decay or corrode over time.
\n\n\n\nMaterials to avoid:
\n\n\n\nEstimated cost: The cost of building a seawall will depend on the material chosen, with costs varying between $113 to $770 per linear foot. But if you leave your property unprotected, the cost of restoring water damage can be significantly higher.
\n\n\n\nWhen preparing for a hurricane, homeowners often neglect backyard fences. Nevertheless, choosing the right type of fence appropriate for your home can have a significant impact. Remember to prioritize durability.
\n\n\n\nBenefits of hurricane-resistant fencing:
\n\n\n\nYou might think that a solid privacy fence is most effective because it can obstruct the wind. However, the absence of air circulation can cause it to give way under the force of high winds. Wooden fences, even the most robust, can be toppled over easily if there are no gaps large enough to permit the wind to flow through.
\n\n\n\nTypes of fencing to avoid:
\n\n\n\nAvoid spending a lot of money on fence replacements and repairs after a storm by investing in a fence that can resist hurricanes. Choose fences that have slats. The following are types of fencing that enable wind to move through with minimal obstruction:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Fence installation costs fluctuate depending on the material you choose, with the cost usually ranging from $8 to $46 per linear foot. Chain-link fences are typically priced between $12 and $33 per linear foot.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/palm-trees-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Shadowmeld Photography / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nHaving a hurricane-resistant landscape with wind-resistant trees can be extremely helpful when a hurricane passes through. These types of trees have robust and deep roots, a lower center of gravity, and sturdy trunks, reducing the probability of being uprooted by high-speed winds. This decreases the likelihood of your trees becoming a danger to your property or community.
\n\n\n\nEach tree species has unique characteristics, and some are more susceptible to wind damage than others. Here are some of the most exceptional tree species with excellent wind resistance:
\n\n\n\nAvoid planting certain trees in areas prone to hurricane winds, as they are more susceptible to wind damage. The University of Florida IFAS Extension states that the following trees should be avoided in hurricane-prone regions like St. Augustine:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of professional tree planting services can vary significantly, ranging from $22 to $3,300. The total cost will be influenced by several factors, including the type of tree species, as well as its age and size. Typically, the expenses will be lower for small saplings than for larger, more mature trees.
\n\n\n\nFor homeowners who want to maintain a healthy lawn, living near the coast presents a unique challenge due to salty coastal air that can damage plants not suited for the environment. However, choosing the right plants can help. You should select native and salt-tolerant plants that can adapt to local environmental conditions and thrive in areas with high salt content in the soil and air.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners in St. Augustine prefer native plants because they have already evolved to survive in the specific climate and soil of the region. In addition, salt-tolerant plants can withstand high levels of salt water, making them perfect for coastal gardens.
\n\n\n\nOne of the key benefits of choosing salt-tolerant and native plants is that they require less maintenance and watering, which can save time and money. They also lessen the need for pesticides, fertilizers, and other environmentally harmful chemicals.
\n\n\n\nThe University of Florida IFAS extension recommends several popular native and salt-tolerant plants for coastal landscapes, including:
\n\n\n\nGrasses:
\n\n\n\nGroundcovers and flowers:
\n\n\n\nTrees and shrubs:
\n\n\n\nVines:
\n\n\n\nThese plants not only make your coastal landscape beautiful, but they also help support local ecosystems.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The cost of planting a tree can range from a budget-friendly $90 to a more expensive $3,212. Similarly, planting a flower bed can cost anywhere from $861 to $3,100, depending on factors such as the size of the bed and the type of flowers you choose.
\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tree-Placement.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Matthew Paul Argall / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nCareful consideration of tree placements is crucial to prevent them from causing property damage during a storm. While trees help enhance a property’s curb appeal and provide shade, you must keep them away from structures such as buildings and power lines.
\n\n\n\nTo determine where to plant your trees, consider their size at maturity and their root systems. A tree planted too close to a home or power line may cause property damage or power outages during a storm.
\n\n\n\nKeeping trees away from structures can bring many benefits. It can reduce the risk of property damage during a storm, prevent power outages caused by falling or swaying trees, and reduce maintenance costs. Planting trees too close to power lines or your home may require more frequent pruning and maintenance, which can be time-consuming and expensive.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure safe and effective tree placement, follow these tips:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: The typical cost of tree removal services ranges from $347 to $1,117 per tree. For transplanting trees, it can cost anywhere between $158 and $880.
\n\n\n\nTrees can provide functional and aesthetic benefits when planted strategically. Planting trees in clusters of five or more can improve their resilience to high winds by over 10%, making them more effective in safeguarding your property during hurricane season. Additionally, grouping five trees with diverse appearances and heights can further enhance your property’s visual appeal.
\n\n\n\nHowever, you should avoid planting trees in a straight line. The University of Florida recommends a natural and unforced arrangement for planting trees – each tree must be within 10 feet of the other. This approach can create a strong and sustainable windbreak.
\n\n\n\nBy planting trees in groups, you can enjoy many benefits beyond just the beauty they bring to your lawn. Here are a few advantages of grouping trees:
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Tree prices vary greatly depending on species and size, but the usual costs range from $150 to $1,850. To lower the cost per tree or sapling, you can purchase them in bulk. Plus, installing several trees will be less expensive per tree than having a single tree installed, so consider this when planning your landscape.
\n\n\n\nCreating a backyard buffer is a great way of preventing flooding and erosion caused by hurricanes while also creating a beautiful natural environment in your backyard.
\n\n\n\nA backyard buffer or riparian buffer is made up of trees, shrubs, flowers, and mulch that work together to absorb and slow down wind and water. By preventing the full force of the storm from reaching your home, the buffer can protect your property from damage and protect waterways from overheating.
\n\n\n\nOnce established, your backyard buffer can provide many benefits, including:
\n\n\n\nTo create a backyard buffer, choose native plants that can withstand heavy rains and high winds, such as Southern live oak and bald cypress. They also have strong roots that help keep the soil in place and prevent erosion. Additionally, you can use low-maintenance shrubs like firebush and wax myrtle to create a buffer zone around your home.
\n\n\n\nWhen installing your backyard buffer, remember to consult with garden centers, local nurseries, or environmental organizations for expert advice on creating a buffer suited for St. Augustine.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: There are many options for selecting plants, and prices will vary depending on the type of plant. For example, small native perennials are generally less expensive and can cost anywhere from $4 to $25 each. On the other hand, planting a tree can cost much higher, ranging from $22 to $3,300, depending on the tree species, size, and age.
\n\n\n\n![\"Brown](\"https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/tree-grass-light-plant-field-lawn-1359857-pxhere.com-2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n\n\n\nHurricane season can wreak havoc on your garden beds, so you should prepare them accordingly. Mulch is an essential part of maintaining a healthy garden, but remember to select the right kind to prevent damage during high winds.
\n\n\n\nOrganic, soft mulches are highly recommended for areas like St. Augustine that experience high winds. During a storm, hard and heavy mulches can become dangerous projectiles, causing damage to your property and neighboring homes.
\n\n\n\nExamples of organic, soft mulch:
\n\n\n\nUnlike hard mulches, such as pebbles, pea gravel, stones, and river rock, organic mulches remain in place better. Plus, they offer numerous benefits to plants, like providing insulation to plant roots, suppressing weed growth, and retaining moisture in the soil.
\n\n\n\nWhen selecting the type of soft mulch, avoid using any materials that may harbor disease or pests. Freshly cut grass clippings should be avoided since they can generate heat and attract harmful organisms. Also, avoid using straw or hay as they may contain weed seeds that will proliferate in your garden beds.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: On average, aged wood chips are priced at approximately $70 per cubic yard, while shredded bark mulch costs around $65 per cubic yard. Alternatively, you can get fresh wood chips for free from a certified arborist or a local tree recycling center. Or you can make your own mulch by composting leaves, providing a nutrient-rich material for your garden beds.
\n\n\n\nTo protect your yard from the effects of extreme weather, you should prioritize regular maintenance. This applies not just to your garden and lawn but also to your trees.
\n\n\n\nInspecting your existing trees regularly is an important part of maintaining a healthy and resilient landscape, particularly in the months leading up to hurricane season. Damaged or diseased trees can pose a significant threat to your property and safety during extreme weather events.
\n\n\n\nDuring inspections, look for signs of damage or disease, such as yellowing leaves, dead branches, and cracks in the trunk. If you leave dying or weakened trees untouched, even mild winds can cause them to fall. So if you want to avoid more problems later on, you should address these issues immediately.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure you identify all hazardous trees on your property, consider hiring a certified arborist to inspect them. These professionals can identify hazardous trees in your yard, and you can work together to develop an effective plan for safely removing them.
\n\n\n\nTo avoid property damage caused by falling branches during a storm, it’s important to take preventive measures in your landscape. Strong winds can easily snap branches, creating a potential hazard for your property. A seemingly harmless long branch hanging over your roof could cause significant damage if it’s not removed in time.
\n\n\n\nTo prevent such scenarios, be sure to prune and trim any weak or overgrown branches on your existing trees. Regular maintenance will ensure your plants are healthy and strong, and won’t succumb to high winds during a storm. If you don’t want a broken branch to smash through a window, damage your car or cause injury, you should keep your trees in good shape.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your property safe during high winds requires more than just tree maintenance. You also should keep your lawn and garden well-maintained by regularly mowing, weeding, and removing debris. This will prevent any hazards from flying around during storms. Regularly fertilizing your lawn and garden can help ensure that your plants remain strong and healthy, and able to withstand extreme weather conditions.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Bush trimming can range from $45 to $75 per hour or $7 to $24 per bush, depending on the type of bush and the amount of work needed. Hedge trimming can cost between $56 and $85 per hour, while tree trimming costs can range from $227 to $708, depending on the size and complexity of the job.
\n\n\n\n![\"storm](\"https://lawnlove.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/rsz_6447392233_f7b09919fa_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Fried Dough / Flickr / Public Domain
\n\n\n\nTo prevent potential damage caused by rain, you should take precautions to ensure the proper flow of stormwater. This includes:
\n\n\n\nStanding water or puddling can be a risk to your property and weaken roots, making trees more susceptible to damage during storms. A French drain is an effective solution to prevent water from pooling in your yard. This involves installing a drainpipe that redirects water away from your home and ensures proper drainage.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Be prepared to spend anywhere from $154 to $1,059 to have your yard cleaned up. If you’ll be having a French drain installed, it can cost from $500 for a small, simple project to $18,000 for a larger or more complex installation.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to clearing debris, trimming trees, and installing drainage systems, another way of preparing your yard for an impending storm is to provide extra protection for your plants. This can be achieved by wrapping trees and large plants with burlap, which will help to reduce the impact of strong winds.
\n\n\n\nFor smaller plants, using a floating row cover and securing it to the ground with garden stakes is a good option. Although these covers may not withstand severe hurricanes, they can still provide protection and lessen the amount of damage.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: Burlap comes in different sizes and prices, ranging from $7 to $180 per roll. On the other hand, floating row covers have a cost of $11 to $240 per cover, depending on their size and type.
\n\n\n\nTo ensure your lawn and plants recover quickly after a hurricane, you should be mindful of the amount of water they receive. While automatic sprinklers can be convenient during the year, they can cause further damage during a storm. Excessive water can saturate your lawn, and the plants may struggle to recover from it.
\n\n\n\nYou should turn off your water supply entirely to prevent damage from burst pipes during a storm. Once the hurricane has passed, assess the damage and adjust the watering schedule accordingly to give your plants the time they need to recover.
\n\n\n\nEstimated Cost: You don’t have to spend a dime. In fact, it can help lower your monthly water bill.
\n\n\n\nEven though St. Augustine is not as susceptible to hurricane damage as other cities, you must take the necessary precautions and be prepared before hurricane season arrives. Keeping yourself updated with weather forecasts and following storm warnings can help you minimize potential damage to your home and ensure your family’s safety.
\n\n\n\nDo the following to prepare for a hurricane:
\n\n\n\nIf you’re looking for hurricane-resistant grass options, Zoysiagrass and St. Augustinegrass are the best grass types for you.
Zoysiagrass is a warm-season turfgrass that is highly resistant to strong winds and requires minimal maintenance. Additionally, it’s an excellent choice for homes located along the First Coast due to its salt tolerance.
On the other hand, the warm-season St. Augustinegrass is native to coastal areas. It’s known for its resilience in humid and hot weather conditions, heavy foot traffic, and rough weather conditions. It’s also salt-tolerant and can be an excellent option for homeowners looking for hurricane-resistant grasses.
The Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean offer a conducive environment for hurricanes to develop and strengthen, especially during the peak of the hurricane season, which falls between mid-August and late October. But hurricane season usually begins June 1 and lasts until Nov. 30.
Like Jacksonville, St. Augustine is highly susceptible to hurricanes because of its location along the East Coast. While hurricanes can strike this area at any time, the frequency of these storms varies from year to year.
According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), St. Augustine has been affected by tropical storms or hurricanes approximately every two to three years over the past century. Note, though, that this is not a fixed pattern, and some years may see more or fewer storms. You must always remain vigilant and prepared for the potential impact of these powerful storms.
As St. Augustine homeowners know all too well, hurricanes are an ever-present threat during the storm season. However, taking proactive steps to prepare for hurricanes can go a long way.
\n\n\n\nOne key aspect of hurricane preparedness is creating hurricane-resistant landscaping. By selecting the right plants, installing barriers and drainage systems, and securing loose items in your yard, you can help minimize damage to your home and ensure your family’s safety.
Don’t wait until the next storm is on the horizon to take action. Reach out to a St. Augustine landscaping professional today and create a beautiful and resilient landscape that can withstand even the toughest storms.
Main Image Credit: Wallpaperflare
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\n","content":"\nThe best plants for New Mexico thrive in the local climate. Native plants can endure Southwestern droughts and temperatures that frequently soar to 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer. Planting native plants in your New Mexico landscape design provides many benefits, including:
\n\n\n\nNew Mexico’s desert-like environment may seem pretty dry and brown, but the Land of Enchantment is actually home to an abundance of colorful native plants. Here are 11 of the best native plants for your New Mexico landscape.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"an](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Agave_parryi_v._truncata_7230471896.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Akos Kakai / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nArtichoke agaves are shaped like squat rosettes with fleshy, blue-gray leaves edged with rust-colored spikes that are prickly to the touch. Also known as Parry’s agave, artichoke agave blooms in the summer, attracting pollinators like birds, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nAt the end of its life, artichoke agave grows a tree-like stalk that towers 15 to 20 feet in the air, a rare event that only happens once every 10 years. Clusters of red buds grow at the top of the stem and transform into golden flowers.
\n\n\n\nThe plant is native to Southwest states, including New Mexico, Arizona, and Texas. In the wild, artichoke agaves can be found nestled at the edges of pine or oak forests or making their home in open, rocky deserts. This drought-tolerant succulent grows best in rock or container gardens, making it a great choice for low-maintenance landscapes or drought-resistant yards.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus
USDA hardiness zone: 8-12
Mature size: 1-3 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Evergreen
Sunlight needs: Full sun
Soil preferences: Dry, rocky or sandy soil
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; does not require water outside of natural rainfall
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; prickly leaves
![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Baileya_multiradiata_flower_1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nDesert marigold thrives in hot, flat, sandy regions. It has a rounded shape and sparse gray-green vegetation. Clusters of spindly stems topped with a single, bright yellow flower grow outward from a central mound. The long blooming season begins in March and lasts until November.
\n\n\n\nThe bright flowers attract butterflies and bees. Desert marigold spreads through seed, and one plant produces as many as 50 flowers.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herbaceous flower
USDA hardiness zone: 7-10
Mature size: 1-2 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun
Soil preferences: Adaptable; well-drained, clay, loam, or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; does not require water outside of natural rainfall
Potential hazards: Toxic; poisonous if ingested
![\"pinkish](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Chilopsis_linearis_flower_2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Stan Shebs / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nDespite its name, the desert willow isn’t related to the willow tree. Desert willows are extremely heat and drought-tolerant and grow well in desert terrain. In the spring and summer, their narrow, bright green leaves are graced with white, lavender, or pink flowers growing at the tips of their branches.
\n\n\n\nDesert willow’s delicate flowers attract hummingbirds and pollinating insects and wildlife eat its seeds. The flowering shrub provides a place for birds to nest, and their gnarly limbs and colorful flowers are easily identifiable. Desert willows need at least six hours of full sun. Grow this vibrant native as an ornamental patio specimen.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
USDA hardiness zone: 7-11
Mature size: 15-30 feet tall and 10-20 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun
Soil preferences: Adaptable; prefers well-drained limestone soil; tolerates sand, loam, clay, caliche, granitic, or rocky soils
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; does not require water outside of natural rainfall
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/AgastacheTFHVN.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PlantExpert / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nHummingbird-loving homeowners can add hummingbird mint to their landscape, attracting the fast fliers and pollinating insects with its sweet nectar and vibrant blooms. During the summer, tubular flowers grow in vertical spikes in a collection of fragrant floral clusters.
\n\n\n\nHummingbird mint offers a variety of blooms, including pink, red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, and white. Its stems are thin and erect but full of leafy foliage. Hummingbird mint is naturally pest-resistant making it a great addition to beds, borders, containers, and rock gardens.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herbaceous flower
USDA hardiness zone: 4-10
Mature size: 2-3 feet tall and wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun
Soil preferences: Adaptable; moist, well-drained, chalk, clay, loam, or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water one inch per week during dry periods
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Indian-Blanket-Gaillardia-pulchella.jpg\"){kind=spacer}
Photo Credit: Jim Evans / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nMany believe the Indian blanketflower gets its name from brightly colored blankets woven by Native Americans. Blanketflowers have fiery, yellow-tipped petals that are arranged in a circle around their yellow or burgundy cone center. Blooms grow two to three inches wide atop erect stems.
\n\n\n\nThe vivid red hues make Indian blanketflowers an attention-grabbing flora. The attractive wildflower draws both people and butterflies to its vibrant petals. Birds snack on the seeds and hummingbirds can’t get enough of the flower’s sweet nectar. In the wild, this sun-loving perennial makes its home in prairies and meadows. Plant this colorful specimen in beds, borders, containers, and butterfly or rock gardens.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Wildflower
USDA hardiness zone: 3-8
Mature size: 1-2 feet tall and 1-3 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Evergreen
Sunlight needs: Full sun; partial shade
Soil preferences: Dry, well-drained, loam, chalk, or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water once per week during dry spells
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
Despite its strange name, New Mexico beardtongue blossoms into clusters of graceful, bell-shaped flowers on top of tall stems. From May through July, its tubular flowers bloom into drooping clusters of lavender, pink, or white. The perennial invites pollinators and hummingbirds, and New Mexico beardtongue is the larval food source for the rare, endemic Sacramento Mountains checkerspot butterfly.
\n\n\n\nThe plant is leafy at its base with elongated, oval-shaped leaves that end in sharp points. Its foliage is blue-green with a waxy texture. In the wild, this low-maintenance plant grows in meadows, prairies, or woodlands. Plant this vibrant perennial in flower beds and along borders to create a pollinator garden.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herbaceous Flower
USDA hardiness zone: 5-9
Mature size: 2-4 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun, partial sun
Soil preferences: Well-drained, sand, chalk, or loam
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water once per week during dry spells
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; no safety hazards
![\"purple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Purple-Poppy-Mallow.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PublicDomainPictures
\n\n\n\nPurple poppy mallows grow naturally in prairies and meadows. Blooms are identifiable by their poppy shape and vibrant magenta color. The five petals of purple poppy mallow form a cup-like shape that has earned the wildflower its nickname, “winecup.” Its flowers attract beneficial pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hoverflies as well as some unwelcome guests like predatory wasps.
\n\n\n\nIt blooms from May to June and propagates by self-seeding. The hardy wildflower has a hairy stem and taproot system which makes it difficult to transplant once mature. The leaves and roots of purple poppy mallow are edible and have medicinal properties. This drought-tolerant wildflower makes a great addition to rock gardens, flower beds, and borders.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herbaceous flower
USDA hardiness zone: 4-8
Mature size: 6-12 inches tall and 2-3 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Semi-evergreen
Sunlight needs: Full sun; partial shade
Soil preferences: Dry, well-drained, rocky or sandy, clay, clay-loam, medium loam, or sand-loam soils
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water once per week during dry spells
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; edible
![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/18437471969_b27d732b61_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: brando / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nYucca is New Mexico’s state flower. Soaptree yucca specimens are sun-loving succulents. They are ball-shaped with long, spiked leaves that jut outwards like spears. In May and June, flower stalks rise out of the spiked leaves and bell-shaped, white flowers grow in oblong clusters.
\n\n\n\nSoaptree yucca’s roots are often made into soap and shampoo. These succulents make excellent additions to xeriscapes and promote biodiversity, attracting hummingbirds and sheltering small wildlife.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Cactus
USDA hardiness zone: 6-11
Mature size: 5-20 feet tall and 8-10 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Evergreen
Sunlight needs: Full sun
Soil preferences: Well-drained loam or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; do not require water outside of natural rainfall
Potential hazards: Toxic; sharp spines; poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses
![\"white](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/3197722916_f5a924af59_o-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Frank Mayfield / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhorled milkweed is a haven for butterflies and the larval host for the Monarch butterfly. This single-stemmed wildflower uses a taproot system. In the wild, it can be found growing in fields, prairies, meadows, and along roadsides.
\n\n\n\nIts light green foliage consists of thin, needlelike leaves protruding from the length of its tall stems. Flowers grow in clusters from spring to fall and have a pleasant fragrance. Whorled milkweed is self-seeding and makes a great addition to garden beds and borders.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb
USDA hardiness zone: 3-9
Mature size: 1-3 feet tall and wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun; partial shade
Soil preferences: Well-drained clay, loam, or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water one inch per week during dry periods
Potential hazards: Toxic; poisonous to humans and animals
![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Woods-Rose.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James St. John / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you are strolling through pine forests or near streams, you might see Woods’ roses blooming in late spring and summer. The five-petaled flowers bloom in shades of pink, lilac, or lavender with bright yellow centers. They produce a sweet fragrance that attracts pollinators like bees and butterflies.
\n\n\n\nWoods’ rose’s deep green leaves are pinnately compound with serrated edges. They produce a fruit called a rose hip, which is round, cherry red, and has a glossy texture. High in Vitamin C, rose hips have medical properties and are a popular snack for birds and mammals. Plant these flowering shrubs in garden beds and along borders.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Shrub
USDA hardiness zone: 3-8
Mature size: 3-6 feet tall and wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous
Sunlight needs: Full sun; partial shade; full shade
Soil preferences: Well-drained. Loam, clay, or sand
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; water one inch per week
Potential hazards: Non-toxic; edible except for the hairs surrounding seeds
![\"White](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Common-Yarrow-Achillea-Millefolium.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jitaeri / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nYarrow, also known as common yarrow or white yarrow, is an adaptable plant found throughout the United States, including the Southwestern wilderness. This medicinal herb grows naturally in mountains, deserts, pine forests, meadows, and along stream banks.
\n\n\n\nYarrow is a hardy, drought-tolerant perennial that is great for xeriscaping. It makes an excellent groundcover and addition to rock gardens. It attracts butterflies while also being pest-resistant, repelling pesky insects like ants, beetles, and flies.
\n\n\n\nYarrow blooms from April to October, flowering in flat-topped clusters of white and pink flowers that grow atop tall stalks. It has feathery, fern-like leaves and fills the air with a fragrant aroma.
\n\n\n\nGrowth habit: Herb.
USDA hardiness zone: 3-9
Mature size: 2-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide
Duration: Perennial
Foliage: Deciduous sometimes evergreen
Sunlight needs: Full sun; partial shade.
Soil preferences: Salt-tolerant; well-drained clay, sand, or loam sandy
Water needs: Drought-tolerant; does not require water outside of natural rainfall
Potential hazards: Toxic; poisonous to cats, dogs, and horses
Geographic location plays a big role in determining how well plants will perform in your landscape. Each plant requires the right soil and sunlight to grow. Before you select native plants for your yard, consider:
\n\n\n\nBefore installing native plants in your landscape, determine your yard’s USDA hardiness zone. New Mexico’s hardiness zones range between 4b to 8b.
\n\n\n\nThanks to its hardiness zones, New Mexico’s coldest annual temperatures range between -25 to -20 degrees Fahrenheit, and all native plants are hardy to the Land of Enchantment’s lowest temperatures.
\n\n\n\nWhen planting your landscape, spacing is another important factor to consider. Don’t plant a large tree where it doesn’t have enough room to grow. Make sure you are accommodating for the mature size of any native plants you add to your landscape.
\n\n\n\nIf you have small children or pets running around your yard, avoid adding poisonous plants to your landscape.
Poisonous natives include:
Butterfly gardens are a great way to promote biodiversity and a healthier ecosystem by supplying butterflies, bees, and other pollinators with a source of food or a place to rest. Here are some pollinator-attracting wildflowers that thrive in New Mexico:
Groundcovers can be used in place of grass for a low-maintenance landscape. Native groundcovers include:
Take a stroll through your neighborhood and you are bound to find native plants. Always source your landscape plants ethically and never remove plants from the wild.
\n\n\n\nShrubs, trees, and wildflowers aren’t the only native plants you can add to your landscape. Check out New Mexico’s best grass types to add some green to your yard and be sure to check out our guide to dealing with the worst weeds in New Mexico so you are ready to protect your new native landscape.
\n\n\n\nLooking for a New Mexico lawn care pro near you? Wikilawn has trusted professionals in Albuquerque and many more cities across the Land of Enchantment.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Indian Blanket Flower / Chad Sparkes / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n","title":"11 Best Native Plants for New Mexico","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2.2388059701492535,"src":"/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/1789c/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/107df/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/293e9/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/f2cbb/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/1789c/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/c26c2/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/1dd6e/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/67b76/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp 320w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/8df11/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp 500w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/98a65/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp 800w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/1dd6e/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp 960w,\n/static/68d2a733a368ae614293458d9c6af3cc/3cc96/Indian_Blanket_flower_14153989023-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"11 Best Native Plants for New Mexico | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Native plants have adapted to survive New Mexico’s high temperatures and dusty environment, making them a great addition to your landscape."}}},{"node":{"id":"3dd2cab3-28fb-5205-ae65-901cd2c6fff8","slug":"best-grass-types-new-mexico","path":"/lawn-care/nm/best-grass-types-new-mexico/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Danielle Gorski lives with her family in Texas. She has a degree in Professional Studies and a minor in marketing. Her hobbies include reading, drawing, and writing.","name":"Danielle Gorski","id":"7c21f4d6-aa31-5681-9530-3d69932d07c4","path":"/author/danielle-gorski/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d4dbd5997a7fe91daa87a0bd0839baff?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"a5a0b892-6574-5ca0-bb3e-544a1453bec5","name":"New Mexico","count":4,"path":"/category/lawn-care/nm/"}],"date":"May 25th, 2023","excerpt":"New Mexico invokes images of deserts, majestic mesas, and prickly cacti. Most people don’t envision carpets of lush, emerald green grass unfolding across their lawn, but it is possible to maintain a healthy yard in New Mexico. The trick is choosing the best grass type for your New Mexico landscape. Whether your new build needs […]
\n","content":"\nNew Mexico invokes images of deserts, majestic mesas, and prickly cacti. Most people don’t envision carpets of lush, emerald green grass unfolding across their lawn, but it is possible to maintain a healthy yard in New Mexico. The trick is choosing the best grass type for your New Mexico landscape.
\n\n\n\nWhether your new build needs a new lawn to go with it or your current lawn needs replacing, you need to find the right grass for your needs and landscape. Here’s a list of the 6 best grass types for New Mexico to help you get started.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of turfgrass, cool-season and warm-season grasses. Both types perform well in New Mexico. Warm-season grasses grow best in the southernmost portions of New Mexico, while cool-season grasses grow best in central and northern cities.
\n\n\n\nConsider the traits of each grass type when choosing a turfgrass for your lawn:
\n\n\n\nDepending on the region of New Mexico, cool-season and warm-season grasses are both compatible with the Land of Enchantment’s arid environment.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bermudagrass-3.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Flickr / CC0 1.0
\n\n\n\nThe most common grass type for New Mexico lawns is bermudagrass. It is an aggressive spreader, and some consider it a nuisance if its growth isn’t controlled. It is durable in droughts and high temperatures and grows rapidly, requiring regular maintenance.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass does not tolerate shade or cold, but stands up to heavy foot traffic and is often used in residential lawns, commercial properties, golf courses, and sports fields. Hybrid bermudagrass varieties have fine textures while common bermudagrass has a coarse texture.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Poor — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Needs frequent mowing due to fast growth rate; develops thatch easily; needs regular fertilization
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Good resistance to disease; prone to spring dead spot, dollar spot, leaf spot, large patch, and sheath spot
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low resistance; prone to white grubs, hunting billbugs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soil types
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bermuda spreads aggressively via its stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems) and can out-compete many weeds. The downside is that it also can be a nuisance and is sometimes considered invasive. You’ll often find it has tunneled underground into flower beds and spread into neighboring lawns.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Pixnio
\n\n\n\nNamed after the bison who traverse the Great Plains, buffalograss is a fine-textured turfgrass with a rich, green color. It is one of North America’s native plants and has low watering needs. Buffalograss grows densely and is extremely low-maintenance. Cultivars are commonly found in public areas and around commercial properties.
\n\n\n\nBuffalograss doesn’t tolerate shade and requires full sun. It grows well in arid climates like New Mexico and withstands low annual rainfall. Unfortunately, buffalograss does not tolerate heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Very low — best suited for full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Very low, but light use or rare heavy use is OK
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low mowing frequency — once per week or less
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 2-4 inches or leave unmowed
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; bipolaris leaf spot may occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mealybugs, buffalograss webworms, mites, short-tailed crickets, and chinch bugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6.5-7.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Native soils, not sandy soils
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
There are many varieties of fine fescue. Cultivars are very shade-tolerant, and the cool-season varieties thrive in northern New Mexico. Fine fescue isn’t a good choice for golf courses or sports fields, but it works well for residential properties that receive less foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nFine fescue has a light green color and thin, needle-like blades. Although fine fescue germinates quickly, it is slow to establish and requires routine watering. Homeowners often mix fine fescue with other grass types to create a stronger turfgrass. Common mixes include Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Bunch-type grasses with one exception: creeping red fescues possess rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1.5-3 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate; red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot, summer patch, powdery mildew, and downy mildew can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate; most common pests are chinch bugs, sod webworms, grubs, billbugs, winter mites, and crane flies
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained soils; tolerates infertile and sandy soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Often used in a mix with other cool-season grasses, especially in sun/shade mixes
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nAs the most commonly used lawn grass in the United States, Kentucky bluegrass grows aggressively and quickly fills in sparse landscapes with its fine-textured blades. Kentucky bluegrass is self-repairing and resilient to heavy foot traffic while its carpet-like texture feels pleasant under bare feet.
\n\n\n\nThe blue-green turfgrass isn’t a water guzzler, and its heat tolerance makes it a good choice for many regions. It might go dormant during a drought but bounces back quickly. Kentucky bluegrass can be mixed with other grass cultivars like tall fescue and perennial ryegrass to create a hardy, drought-resistant lawn.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low to moderate; prefers full sun
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low to moderate; recuperates well
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-3 inches; mow taller during summer
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Moderate to high; snow molds, summer patch, leaf spot, fairy rings, dollar spot, and necrotic ring spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Moderate to high; most common pests are chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs, grubs, and greenbugs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-7
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-drained, fertile soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: It is most often mixed with other species. Regular watering is necessary because of its shallow roots. Poor soil conditions and lack of water can cause diseases, but newer cultivars are more hardy and resistant to disease.
\n\n\n\n![\"Blades](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/800px-Festuca_arundinacea-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bildoj / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nTolerant of both heat and drought, tall fescue is an excellent turfgrass for New Mexico. The dark green color, glossy texture, and broad blades add a bed of rich, green color to your yard, while its coarse texture stands up to heavy foot traffic. Although it prefers full sun, tall fescue can survive in partial shade, and the cool-season grass grows well from seed or sod, while its dense growth prevents weeds.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Cool-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Tillers (Bunch-type)
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Moderate to high
\n\n\n\nDrought tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Moderate; recovers slowly
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Moderate
\n\n\n\nRecommended mowing height: 2-4 inches (Check your cultivar and state recommendations. Many cultivars grow best when mowed on the tall side.)
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low to moderate; can be prone to leaf spot, seedling disease, and brown patch
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low to moderate; susceptible to armyworms, cutworms, sod webworms, and grubs
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Adaptable; prefers clay soils
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Fertilize in September and November. Plant fresh grass seeds every couple of years to maintain a dense lawn and fill thinning spots.
\n\n\n\n![\"green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-5.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest & Kim Starr / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\nThick, deep roots allow zoysiagrass to withstand heavy foot traffic and New Mexico’s blistering heat and arid climate. It is soft and gentle on bare feet, making it great for families and pets.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass has a yellow-green color. It is fairly shade-tolerant, and its dense growth habit acts as a barrier against weeds. Zoysiagrass is slow to recover and establish, taking between one to three months.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Stolons and rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Tolerates light to moderate shade
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: High
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: Low to moderate nitrogen requirement; moderate mowing frequency
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 1-2.5 inches
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low; large patch, root decline, spring dead spot, rust, curvularia, and leaf spot can occur
\n\n\n\nPotential for pests: Low; most common pests are mites, grubs, mole crickets, hunting billbugs, armyworms, chinch bugs, and sod webworms
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 6-6.5
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Well-draining, some cultivars more tolerant of a wide range of soils than others
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Moderately salt tolerant; cut with sharp mower blade; mow taller if grass is in partial shade
\n\n\n\nSow cool-season turfgrasses in late summer or early fall. Aim to plant warm-season cultivars between April and June. No matter where you live in the Land of Enchantment, add sod installments to your New Mexico yard from spring to fall.
Fine fescue has high shade tolerance and is the best choice for shaded New Mexico lawns.
Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass have impressive wear tolerance.
Growing healthy grass in New Mexico is within your grasp. There is no single best grass cultivar for New Mexico landscapes. Consider the following factors:
\n\n\n\nPersonal considerations are also important. Some grasses offer a sparse, bunched appearance while others provide a lush, backyard carpet. Finding the right lawn grass will improve your home’s curb appeal and make you happy to spend more time outdoors.
\n\n\n\nFind a New Mexico lawn care pro near you. Wikilawn has trusted professionals in Albuquerque and many more cities across the Land of Enchantment.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credits: Lawn, New Mexico / Nickmanpow / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
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