![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/n7T7g8yk7QfRDitctwYmrgWDu6JdJtS1R0C6zsHPi2CqZ9RNjN6BBQnT5-QVR1pCoIRVR0NIdYzubLglXEQpi4QTZiEsENmgcnxo2QBiuAJQkv6glwSjZgUJszbfVs-5V6LfWSAB\")
The rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed. The last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do […]
\n","content":"\nThe rules of lawn care are pretty simple: Mow and water regularly, spread enough fertilizer to keep it fed, and aerate as needed.
\n\n\n\nThe last part, though is tricky. You have to know when and how to aerate and make sure you poke enough holes in your lawn to let it breathe. Should you do it yourself, or are you better off hiring a professional? Here are the pros and cons of DIY lawn aeration vs. hiring a professional.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn may need to be aerated for any of several reasons. First among them: compaction, when the soil particles are pressed together into a smaller area. Soil compaction leaves less room for air and water to get to the roots.
\n\n\n\nIt is common in areas that have clay soil, or on new lawns where construction activity tamps down the soil, or any lawn that gets a lot of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nA thick layer of thatch can also be a reason to aerate. Thatch is the natural organic matter between the soil and the green blades of grass. A little thatch is necessary and healthy for your lawn. Too much thatch can lead to pest problems and prevent water and air from getting to the grass roots. If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, you may have too much thatch. Bend low and inspect: If the matted brown layer under your green grass blades is more than a half-inch, you may need to aerate.
\n\n\n\nAeration removes pokes holes in your lawn, allowing precious air and water to get down into the roots. It can also loosen the soil, and encourage the grass roots to grow deeper and spread, making your lawn healthier.
\n\n\n\nAerate during the peak of your lawn’s growing season. Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass should be aerated in the spring, and early fall, but warm-season grasses such as St. Augustinegrass need aerating in the late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nStart with soil that’s not too dry. Aerating the day after a rain, or after watering is best.
\n\n\n\nDon’t clean up the plugs of soil; leave them to break down and return the nutrients to the soil.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k-jhjtyFGEXEpnZYMsxHJAP0MvwGNvbruiJLtgNXHdTy7dA6iCG63p4G2fBrzGfnYqwtgt2H81pJTYu34PljU1DA_fPDfSXwcG11H5VYGaT0nT6yrJ2_t3soyyvPGXa_T6spIX--\")
If you do it yourself, you have a choice of aeration techniques. Some are engine-powered machines, some simple tools. All of them share one essential task: poking holes in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nExperts consider core aerators to be superior. Core aeration machines can be purchased or rented for the day or the weekend to get the job done. This will pull out plugs of thatch and soil, allowing oxygen to get down to the roots. Core aeration is also a must in clay soil, where the soil compacts easily. Pulling the plugs out of the ground is the best way to achieve a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nA spike aerator punches holes in your lawn with solid metal tines. You can even find spike aerators that strap onto your shoes. This allows you to march around your lawn, sans machine.
\n\n\n\nThis last point is crucial because it could save you from making an expensive mistake.
\n\n\n\nDr. Kevin Frank with the Michigan State University Extension Department on Crop and Soil Sciences warns, “Also be aware of any other underground lines, e.g., invisible dog fence wire. These lines should be buried deep enough to avoid any trouble, but it never hurts to double-check.”
\n\n\n\nWhether you do it yourself, or you have a lawn service aerate, you will be performing a task vital to your lawn’s health. Every living being on the planet needs oxygen and water to survive, and your grass is no different. Aeration provides the roots of your lawn access to both, leaving your lawn greener, thicker and more beautiful.
\n\n\n\nMain image credit: Wikimedia, CC 3.0
\n","title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional","featured_media":null,"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Aeration: DIY Vs. Hiring a Professional | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"ff5060d1-0b95-5566-8d4f-fdefd13e6b51","slug":"how-to-grow-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-grow-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Looking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need! Bahiagrass […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need!
\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: With a moderate to high growth rate, it needs frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nInsect pest tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown along the Gulf Coast and in the Southeastern U.S. It does best in acidic soils and is not the best grass if your soil is naturally alkaline. It doesn’t tolerate salt water well.
\n\n\n\nWhile this may come as a surprise to many, Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) is used mainly as a pasture grass and for hay production across the southeastern United States. However, selected varieties—Argentine and Pensacola, especially—work well as turfgrass species for lawns. Behind St. Augustinegrass, Bahia is the second most common turfgrass across much of the southeastern United States, and for a good reason.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is well-adapted to low-fertility soils and is excellent for homeowners wanting a low-maintenance, low-input lawn. It puts down a deep root system that spreads via underground rhizomes. This root system makes it great for areas prone to drought or lawns without an irrigation system. However, Bahia doesn’t form the same dense carpet as other warm-season grasses that spread using above-ground stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Bahiagrass is not the best choice for every Southern lawn, but it is ideal in many situations, especially if you have many acres of property to cover.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low water needs
\n\n\n\n✓ Low fertilizer requirements
\n\n\n\n✓ Lower maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\n✓ Deep root system
\n\n\n\n✓ Does well in sandy and other low-fertility soils
\n\n\n\n✓ Minimal insect and disease problems
\n\n\n\n✓ Thatch is generally not a concern
\n\n\n\n✓ Establishes from seed or sod
\n\n\n\n✗ Does not form a dense carpet
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed head stems dull mower blades quickly
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed heads need regular mowing, or they become an eyesore
\n\n\n\n✗ Only a few varieties are available for home lawns
\n\n\n\n✗ Open growth habit leaves space for weeds to grow
\n\n\n\nIf you’re considering switching your lawn to Bahiagrass or using it to start grass at a fresh build, you have the option of seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, some crucial differences between the two methods must be considered when choosing.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no denying that planting grass from seed is by far the cheaper of the two options and is much easier labor-wise to “install.” For homeowners with economic constraints, this makes seeding attractive. On the flip side, if you opt for seeding, the grass needs considerably more babysitting during the establishment process and takes quite a bit of time to grow into a beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod comes with a pretty hefty price tag, and the process is back-breaking – even more so for Bahiagrass sod, as it tends to fall apart unless you spend extra money for sod with a netting material to hold it together. That being said, once you get it down, you automatically have a nice green lawn, and it doesn’t take micromanaging to get it established like seeding does.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Depending on where you purchase seed from, expect to pay $100-$110 for a 25 lb bag of Pensacola Bahiagrass seed.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: A 400-square-foot pallet of Bahiagrass sod costs approximately $113 to $134.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Getting grass seed down in late spring or early summer is best. Warm-season grasses like Bahia grow the most when the air temperatures hit a whopping 85 to 95°F, so you want to plant just before temps climb this high. This helps your grass establish as quickly as possible, putting down a sound root system so it is well-prepared to go dormant and survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nNote: Not all grass seeds you scatter will germinate; some Bahiagrass seeds lay dormant and may sprout later in the season.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: Sod is a little more forgiving timing-wise and can be put down whenever you have time to tackle the project. However! You’ll have a much easier time getting it established if you do it in the spring or fall when temperatures are more moderate.
\n\n\n\nSince Bahia grows a little more sparsely than other turfgrasses, you can overseed your lawn annually with more Bahiagrass seed to keep it as thick as possible. Remember that no matter what you do, it will never grow as thick as Zoysia or other turfs with dense growth habits.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Yes, I’ve said that Bahiagrass is low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need your attention at all. Here are the basic rules of Bahiagrass lawn maintenance to follow.
\n\n\n\nIt was mentioned that Bahiagrass is fantastic for large acres and properties without irrigation. This doesn’t mean it will stay green regardless of how little or how much water it gets.
\n\n\n\nWhen you’re growing Bahiagrass without irrigation, it will go into a state of dormancy and turn brown during long periods of drought. Once the rain returns, the grass greens back up and resumes growing. In climates such as Florida, where it rains most days, you may not ever need to give a Bahia lawn supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nIf you can water your lawn, it’s best to keep an eye on it and watch for signs it needs water. You’ll see folded grass blades, a color change, and footprints will remain on the grass after you walk across it. So, if you see these things, turn on the sprinklers and give your grass one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water to get it green and perky.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer specifics will depend on the soil in your yard and how you’ve managed it before. You need to account for soil type, organic matter content, if you’ve mulched clippings back into the lawn, etc. To get an exact recommendation, perform a soil test before seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nAs a general rule of thumb, apply 1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of yard annually.
\n\n\n\nAlways check local guidelines for lawn fertilizer blackout dates or ordinances regarding its application.
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer, Bahia is known for its characteristic Y-shaped, two- or three-branched seed heads. To keep them in check and your grass looking nice, expect to mow your lawn every one to two weeks. During the hottest parts of summer, you may need to cut it a little more frequently unless you don’t mind the seed heads, but you’ll want to keep your grass 3 to 4 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nThe seed head stems are tough on mower blades, so you may need to sharpen them more frequently than with other grasses. Keeping mower blades sharp will help give you an excellent crisp cut when you mow instead of tearing the tops of the grass off with dull mower blades.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a Bahiagrass lawn weed-free is a challenge since Bahia doesn’t grow as thick or dense as some grass types. Weeds love to come in and reside in those bare spots and compete with your grass for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo do this, keep your grass mowed to the proper height, irrigate when you see signs of drought stress, and fertilize throughout the growing season. You can also consider periodically overseeding to help fill in some bare spots where the weeds like to hang out.
\n\n\n\nWhen proper lawn management doesn’t succeed in weed control, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are available in both chemical and organic formulations. Just stay away from products containing atrazine and metsulfuron because they damage Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, Bahia lawns experience very few insect and disease problems. Watch for mole crickets, Bahiagrass billbugs, and fall armyworms, as they may cause issues in Bahiagrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nThe two classifications of turfgrass are distinguished by where they have adapted to grow the best. Warm-season grasses prefer hot summers and mild winters and grow in the South. Cool-season grasses like temperate summers and can tolerate brutal winters; they grow mainly in the northern United States.
Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass.
Bahiagrass is typically grown on sandy soils in coastal areas, so there isn’t a need to aerate, as these soils don’t compact. Also, it isn’t a grass type that develops a lot of thatch, so dethatching isn’t usually necessary.
Sometimes, when it’s growing where it isn’t wanted, Bahiagrass is considered a weed rather than a turfgrass. If Bahiagrass is a weed in your book, and it’s overrunning your lawn, see our guide on how to get rid of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nIf you think a Bahiagrass lawn is a good fit for your landscape, contact one of our highly-qualified local lawn professionals. They can help get your lawn started or care for your established turf, giving you more time to spend doing what matters most to you – without sacrificing the quality of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nDoes your yard look more like a lake than a lawn? You could have some serious drainage issues. We’ll tell you what’s causing the problem and how to keep water from pooling in your yard.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nTo stop water from pooling in your yard, you have to find the cause. Here are the most common causes of standing water and what you can do to correct them.
\n\n\n\nToo much water inhibits the growth of grassroots and suffocates your lawn. Even worse? Standing water can cause an imbalance in the soil and may lead to grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the way you water your lawn.
\n\n\n\nClogged gutters cause water to back up and overflow, sending large amounts of water onto your lawn all at once.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Clean out downspouts and gutters in the fall and spring to allow water to flow.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a layer of organic material that builds up around the base of your grass. Warm weather causes thick thatch to dry out and repel the water, so the ground can no longer absorb it.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Get rid of heavy thatch using a thatching rake, a power rake, or even a garden rake. Go a step further by aerating your lawn. This will break up the compacted soil and allow your lawn to absorb more water.
\n\n\n\nIf your land doesn’t slope properly, water may collect on your lawn faster than it can drain. Improper grading and poor drainage will make the low spots in your yard even worse with each rainfall.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Regrade your lawn so it slopes away from your house.
\n\n\n\nSoil composed of thick clay is less absorbent and causes drainage problems.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Change the makeup of your soil.
\n\n\n\nWater tables can rise when they collect more water than they’re able to drain away often due to heavy rains.
\n\n\n\nSolution: Work around the water table.
\n\n\n\nTry to pinpoint the issue causing water to pool in your yard. If you’re unsure what’s causing the excess water, we can help you find a landscaping pro near you to diagnose your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nAnother way to get rid of water pooling in your yard is to give it somewhere to go. You can do this by installing extra drainage. Hire a pro or build these DIY hardscaping features to improve your yard’s drainage and curb appeal.
\n\n\n\nBefore you get started, call 811 and have the city mark out any potential underground utilities.
\n\n\n\nA French drain consists of perforated drain pipes buried underground. Stormwater flows into the pipes and out in a more suitable area. You’ll need to direct it toward a storm drain or an appropriate section of the landscape, like near a tree or a rain garden.
\n\n\n\nYou can build your own French drain or hire a professional. Check with your local municipality to see if they require a permit for this project.
\n\n\n\nA dry well is a lined hole in the earth that works as a catch basin. It temporarily holds collected water that will slowly seep back into the soil. Dry wells should be big enough to hold runoff without spilling over during average rainstorms.
\n\n\n\nDry wells range from low-cost hand-dug pits filled with rocks and permeable landscaping fabric to pricey perforated concrete or polyethylene tanks. Regardless of the design, you can conceal a dry well with turf for cover or an open grate for simple monitoring.
\n\n\n\nA dry creek bed is an appealing hardscaping feature that requires very little upkeep and is an efficient drainage solution. Once the dry creek bed is set up, you can add plants to the edges to improve its appearance and give the stone elements some balance.
\n\n\n\nA rain garden is nothing more than a planting space you install in a low part of your yard. A rain garden will direct gutter runoff into a lovely planting area. This acts as a natural filter and sponge to purify the water as it seeps into the surrounding soil.
\n\n\n\nWhen designing a rain garden, make sure the garden is at least 10 feet from any foundation and sloping away from your home.
\n\n\n\nInstalling a French drain or swale is the easiest way to channel runoff away from your driveway. A swale is a gravel-lined open trench with sloping sides.
\n\n\n\nSand, garden compost, leaf mold, and compost additions will loosen up soil that doesn’t absorb water very well. For hardpan soil, you’ll need a shovel to break it up.
\n\n\n\nYes. Rocks are great components of a yard’s drainage system since they do not compact or deteriorate over time and do not need ongoing maintenance.
\n\n\n\nDon’t ignore standing water in your yard. The longer you wait, the more it will cost to fix. We can help you find a lawn care professional to solve your pooling water problem.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wikimedia | CC-BY-SA-4.0
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\n","content":"\nWeed and feed is the perfect way to multitask without extra effort. You can zap away weeds and give your grass nourishment at the same time. While that may be true, there are reasons why weed and feed is bad for your lawn. This article presents some of those reasons. Keep reading for information that will help you decide if weed and feed products are right for your yard.
\n\n\nWeed and feed can be beneficial if used at the right time and correctly. However, many factors determine the product’s usefulness versus the adverse effects it can have. Here are seven reasons weed and feed is bad for your lawn:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/224f4055-1667-42b4-b7d2-082a567c5f63-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ArtBoyMB / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products contain a combination of dangerous chemicals. The chemical 2, 4-D has been found to cause acute and chronic toxicity and organ toxicity. The International Agency for Research considers it to be a possible carcinogen. It is also an endocrine disruptor, which means it disrupts the normal functioning of the body’s hormones.
\n\n\n\nChildren are affected as they come into physical contact with it, allowing the chemicals to be absorbed into their skin, and touch their faces or put their fingers or other objects they have touched after exposure into their mouths. Chemicals are also tracked into the house, increasing exposure beyond a child’s normal outside contact.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawns are not usually covered with weeds as much as they are with grass. But when you use granular weed and feed products, a spreader is typically used, and the entire lawn is covered.
\n\n\n\nMore of the weed control product is used than necessary, and it is used on a larger area than necessary. So, even though you have a small percentage of broadleaf weeds, like dandelions, weed and feed products are applied to the entire lawn, whether that section has weeds or not. You compromise the health of the grass because it is getting too much herbicide. This also increases how much is released into the environment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs stated previously, weed and feed is spread over the entire lawn instead of only the part that is having the weed problem. This use of more chemicals means more runoff into storm drains, affecting the water supply and aquatic life. It also means more toxic substances are released into the air we breathe.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products also stop other plant seeds from germinating, including grass. Dicamba is an ingredient in many weed and feed combos. The chemical penetrates the roots of plants, destroying the vegetation. Do not use weed and feed on grass or other plants that have been recently seeded.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor weed killer to be effective, it must be used when weeds are mature and actively growing. Pre-emergent herbicides and post-emergent herbicides should be used in the spring and fall. However, these are not necessarily the best times to fertilize your lawn. You may end up putting fertilizer on your grass at a bad time when using weed and feed products to treat weeds.
\n\n\n\nLikewise, you may apply weed and feed products when the time to fertilize your lawn comes around, but the weed control does not work because the weeds are not mature and actively growing, or it is not in the time period when herbicides are most effective.
\n\n\n\nApplying fertilizer or herbicide at the wrong time of year can not only render the products ineffective, but it can also actively damage your grass. For example, nitrogen fertilizers can hurt your grass if the temperature isn’t within the right range when you apply them.
\n\n\n\nThe timing of when you reseed or overseed your lawn may also conflict with when you want to use weed and feed products. An application of weed and feed products after seeding your grass can stop the grass seeds from germinating and kill them before they ever sprout.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/749de019-9871-4cb0-b5d1-b034aea7bffa.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bk_Kang / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nYou may not have children, but you have fur babies. Chemical fertilizers and weed-killing products also pose dangers to pets. The toxins can cause serious illness, including cancer, and can even lead to death. Fur babies are exposed the same way as humans, as they absorb the chemicals into their bodies by walking on the lawn, inhaling the substances by sniffing, and ingesting them by licking their paws.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to kill weeds in a way that doesn’t put your pet’s health at risk, see our list of pet-safe weed killers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTree roots expand further than under the tree, meaning they can be under your grass, too. Multiple applications of weed and feed on your lawn can damage the roots of trees and shrubs. These plants can sustain substantial damage when weed and feed is applied during the plants’ active growth season, which is usually in the spring and fall.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are manufactured products and do-it-yourself weed control methods that are human and pet-safe, unlike weed and feed products, which use harsh chemicals. Some safe alternatives can even be used to treat weeds and fertilize the lawn at the same time.
\n\n\n\nLook for products that do not contain chemicals like glyphosate. Read labels and choose those with natural ingredients like vinegar. Here are some safe, organic methods you can use to control weeds and/or fertilize your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Hands](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nYou can pull up dandelions and other broadleaf weeds when you first see them sprouting. Using a dandelion fork may make it easier to extract the weed and get as much of the taproot out as possible.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"white](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/white-vinegar.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NatureFriend from Pixabay / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nYou can use boiling water or an herbicidal version of vinegar to kill the aboveground parts of weeds, then pull up the root systems once the weeds have died. Vinegar and boiling water can kill other plants, so spot-treat weeds individually, and don’t use these methods on or near your grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/4a16ada4-5ea8-4f9b-8641-f6c78f02e677.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Olga Kriger / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal is a safe, organic fertilizer. It contains nitrogen, which is the most important nutrient for making grass greener.
\n\n\n\nAnd although corn gluten meal does not kill weeds that have already grown, it suppresses them. It keeps weed seeds from germinating, acting as a pre-emergent herbicide. Depending on the type of weeds, apply corn gluten meal in early spring or fall.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nMulch keeps weeds from sprouting, and if you use organic mulch, it will break down into the soil over time and act as a fertilizer. Mulch has other benefits, too. It protects roots from extreme temperatures and prevents soil erosion.
\n\n\n\nGrass clippings are an example of organic mulch. After mowing your lawn, the clippings can be left on the lawn as a natural fertilizer and weed suppressant. However, don’t use your grass clippings as mulch if there are already weeds growing on your lawn, as this could spread the weed seeds to new areas.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products contain ingredients to manage weeds and fertilize the grass. They are a two-in-one solution that allows homeowners to prevent or destroy weeds and feed the grass nutrients that enhance the lawn.
\n\n\n\nWeed and feeds come as pre-emergents and post-emergents. Pre-emergent weed and feeds have chemicals that prevent weed seeds from germinating. Post-emergent weed and feeds contain ingredients that kill weeds that have sprouted and are growing.
\n\n\n\nThe lawn fertilizer portion is typically a combination of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, which are the three most important nutrients for plants.
\n\n\n\nIf you would like to try weed and feed despite the downsides covered in this article, see our guide on how to use weed and feed. You’ll also need to make sure you know when to water your lawn after applying weed and feed for the best results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow can you reduce your chances of getting weeds?
\n\n\n\nThe best way to deal with weed problems is to be proactive. Practicing proper lawn care and maintenance is the best strategy to prevent weeds. A healthy lawn makes it harder for weeds to sprout. Fertilize, water, and mow your grass properly and at the right intervals. Also, check and treat your grass for diseases and insects.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat are some conveniences of weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products can save you time and effort. Here are some of their benefits:
\n\n\n\n— They allow you to treat weeds and provide your grass with nutrients for a green lawn in one application.
— These products kill a lot of common weeds, including broadleaf weeds like dandelions and chickweed.
— You can treat a large weed-infested area more quickly.
— These duo lawn care products are widely available at home improvement stores and garden centers.
Are weed and feed products always granules?
\n\n\n\nNo. Some weed and feed products come in liquid form. These chemicals are also dangerous, but you can spot-treat a smaller area by applying the chemicals with a sprayer. This reduces the amount of your lawn exposed to harmful substances and released into the environment.
\n\n\n\nHowever, spot-treating will lead to an unevenly fertilized lawn, which is why we generally recommend fertilizing the lawn and treating for weeds separately.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe chemicals in weed and feed products can not only damage your lawn if not used properly, but their use alone can have substantial negative effects on you, your family, and the environment. It may be best to hire a lawn care professional to handle fertilization and weed control for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nExperts come with these advantages:
\n\n\n\n— Expertise to identify lawn weeds to match them with the proper weed-killing products.
— Knowledge of the best products for your situation and when to apply them.
— Ability to determine if you need spot treatments or wider coverage.
— Skills to properly apply the chemicals.
Using the right chemicals the right way reduces unnecessary exposure or mistakes that can cause damage and cost you money and time. For example, if you use a weed and feed that is not a crabgrass preventer and you have crabgrass, you will have to apply even more herbicides to your lawn to correct your mistake and treat the crabgrass.
\n\n\n\n
WikiLawn can connect you with lawn care pros in your area today who can keep your lawn happy and healthy with proper fertilization, weed control, and everything else your grass needs to thrive.
Main Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nAn uneven lawn causes drainage problems along with tripping hazards. We’ll show you how to level your lawn and keep it level.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nYou can prepare your uneven lawn for leveling with just three easy steps. It’s crucial to level your lawn on a dry day to avoid a big muddy mess.
\n\n\n\nAssess the severity of the problem before you dig in. A few low spots are an easy fix, but if your lawn has significant damage, it will take a few extra steps to smooth it out.
\n\n\n\nFor the smaller bumps and ruts in your lawn, you can level it out with topdressing, a garden rake, a shovel, and a few DIY steps.
\n\n\n\nIf you have to cover up existing grass with the soil mixture, don’t worry. New grass growth will pop up through the soil soon, as long as you stick to the one-half-inch rule.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you’ve applied the top dressing to uneven areas that didn’t have much grass growing before you started, you’ll need to overseed those spots to help them recover.
\n\n\n\nIf you have numerous low and high areas or more of the lawn needs work, you can save it with a little more effort.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn has more craters than the moon, you’ll need to:
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Do not use a heavy roller to lay down fresh sod or correct a bumpy lawn. A lawn roller can lead to further compaction and damage your healthy grass.
\n\n\n\nKnowing what causes your lawn to become uneven can help you fix it. Check your property for these possible issues:
\n\n\n\nAfter you’ve done all the hard work to level your lawn, you’ll want it to stay level. Proper lawn care and maintenance can prevent unnecessary damage and prevent new dips and bumps from emerging.
\n\n\n\n1. Why should I level my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAn uneven lawn will not only lower your home’s curb appeal, it can also be dangerous. Dips and bumps could cause you to trip, resulting in injuries, and poor drainage leads to water damaging your home’s foundation.
\n\n\n\n2. When is the best time to level my lawn?
\n\n\n\nMarch through September is the best time to level your lawn, when the grass is actively growing.
\n\n\n\n3. Does the topdressing help my lawn?
\n\n\n\nTopdressing mixed with compost rejuvenates and strengthens existing grass, improves the soil, and combats other problems like disease and weeds.
\n\n\n\n4. When should I avoid leveling my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAvoid leveling if your lawn is suffering from drought, pests, disease, or when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Address these issues before you begin.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let an uneven lawn get you down. If you don’t have the time or energy to level it yourself, rely on a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: pxHere / CC0 1.1
\n","title":"How to Level a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/1789c/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/107df/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/293e9/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/f2cbb/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/1789c/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/c26c2/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/1dd6e/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/67b76/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/8df11/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/98a65/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/1dd6e/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/78ec29e9b2dfbb9bbe1e90f64b506798/3cc96/rsz_nature-forest-grass-plant-ground-lawn-1195455-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Level a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Is your riding lawn mower taking you for a rollercoaster ride? We’ll tell you how to level your lawn and keep it level."}}},{"node":{"id":"fc01ca95-4faa-5ce8-8ef3-c9a4548de41e","slug":"when-to-water-after-weed-and-feed","path":"/blog/when-to-water-after-weed-and-feed/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Watering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on […]
\n","content":"\nWatering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on the specific type.
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to find out how to get it right the first time.
\n\n\nWhen to water your lawn after applying weed and feed products is just as important as knowing how and when to apply weed and feed. Watering your grass too soon or too late can result in ineffective weed control and keep the fertilizer from creating a healthy lawn full of green grass.
\n\n\n\nFind out below when to water the lawn after applying the different types of weed and feed products.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent weed and feed products require water to help them penetrate the ground to be effective. You can water the grass 12 to 24 hours after application. For the best results, wait at least 24 hours before watering.
\n\n\n\nRain: The rain can help soak the herbicide into the soil. However, do not water the lawn if it rains after you apply weed and feed. Too much water can wash away the treatment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Fertilizer-spreader-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dean Clarke / Shutterstock / License
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should use post-emergent weed and feed products when it will be dry for a few days. These products are more sensitive to watering than their pre-emergent counterparts.
\n\n\n\nWait two days before watering the lawn to give the herbicide portion of the weed and feed time to absorb into the leaves of the weeds. If watered before 48 hours, the chemicals are washed away and will not work.
\n\n\n\nRain: Be sure to check the weather forecast and pick a time to apply weed and feed when it is going to be dry for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"fertilizer](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/fertilizer-for-the-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ronstik / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nFor granular fertilizer to work, it must be watered into the ground to release the lawn food that makes grass healthy and gives you a green lawn. If the fertilizer does not receive water, it can burn the grass if it sits on the lawn during the summer.
\n\n\n\nWait 12 to 24 hours before watering your lawn after applying granular pre-emergent weed and feed.
\n\n\n\nGrass treated with granular post-emergents should not be watered for at least 48 hours.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike granular products, liquid weed and feed does not require watering to work. And you do not have to wait as long to water the lawn. As a rule of thumb, waiting at least 24 hours is best. Too much watering can render the chemicals ineffective, so be mindful of this when you turn on the sprinklers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe chemicals in these two different types of weed and feed do not mix well. Therefore, homeowners are advised not to use both a pre-emergent and post-emergent at the same time. Here are some reasons why:
\n\n\n\n— They should be watered at different times after application.
— They should be applied at different times to work. Pre-emergents should be used in early spring. Post-emergents should be applied in the late spring.
Weed and feed is a combination of chemicals to treat weeds and fertilize the grass. The lawn fertilizer – the “feed” part – contains nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, important plant nutrients. The weed control portion can be either a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent Weed and Feed: Pre-emergent weed and feed products have herbicides to stop weed seeds from germinating. Pre-emergent products do not kill weeds. Depending on the ingredients, pre-emergent weed and feed inhibits cell division, prevents root growth, or stops enzyme growth to keep weeds from growing in the first place.
\n\n\n\nPost-Emergent Weed and Feed: Post-emergent two-in-one products have chemicals that kill weeds that are already growing. Contact-based products kill the plant parts they come into contact with, which is typically the parts above ground. Systemic post-emergents can be sprayed on any part of the weed and are absorbed into the plant, destroying its entire vascular system.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/e7e9bd22-a137-4af7-8800-a8c9ed2b9213.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Srinuan Hirunwat / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent vs. Post-Emergent: If you want to prevent weeds from growing, you’ll want a pre-emergent weed and feed. A post-emergent weed and feed is best in yards already held hostage by weeds.
\n\n\n\nLiquid vs. Granular: If you want to spot-treat weeds, liquid weed and feed products allow you to target individual weeds. Granular weed and feeds use a spreader to apply to a larger area. If you have a lot of weeds throughout your yard and want to apply chemicals quickly, a granular product may be best.
\n\n\n\nGrass Type: The type of grass is also a part of the decision of which weed and feed to select. Weed and feed labels list which types of grass they can be used on and at what stage. For example, pre-emergents should never be used on turfgrass recently seeded.
\n\n\n\nSome chemicals can be used on warm-season grasses but not on cool-season grasses and vice versa. Scotts Turf Builder is an example of a weed and feed that can be used on both.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are conveniently available and can be found at many home improvement brick-and-mortar locations and online stores like Amazon. However, weed and feed can be bad for your lawn for the following reasons:
\n\n\n\n— The best time to fertilize your lawn and the best time to treat weeds are often different.
— The chemicals in weed and feed are dangerous for children and pets.
— Weed products are often only needed in specific areas, while fertilizer is required all across the lawn.
— The harsh chemicals in weed and feed can leach into the surrounding environment.
— Weed and feed can sometimes harm plants other than weeds, including grass, shrubs, and trees.
How long should you wait before mowing the grass after using weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nGive the product time to work. Wait at least three days before you mow the grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen can you aerate your lawn after applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nYou should wait four weeks after applying weed and feed before aerating your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre liquid and granular weed and feed applied differently?
\n\n\n\nYes. Liquid weed and feed products are applied using a sprayer. Granular weed and feed chemicals are disbursed using a drop-type spreader, rotary spreader, or broadcast spreader.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nShould you water your grass before applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWatering the lawn before applying granular products is helpful. It can help the granules stick to the weeds. Be sure to follow the product’s instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is it safe for children and pets to come back on the lawn?
\n\n\n\nWait until after a heavy rainfall before allowing your loved ones back on the grass. You can also water your lawn for a few days in a row to be sure the residual from the chemicals is washed away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow soon can a lawn be reseeded after applying pre-emergent herbicide?
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should wait at least 8-10 weeks after applying weed control to reseed a lawn, or the herbicide could kill the grass seeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGetting the timing right on when to water your grass after applying weed and feed will determine if the chemicals work. It will also affect whether you end up with an attractive, healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with when to water the grass takes time and effort. You could end up spending more time and money correcting your mistake if you do not get it right.
\n\n\n\n
If you prefer to let someone else handle your lawn care chores and eliminate the risk of you messing up the timing, WikiLawn can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can help control weeds and maintain your grass for an appealing, healthy lawn.
Main Photo Credit: nenovbrothers / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"When to Water the Lawn After Applying Weed and Feed ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1789c/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/107df/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/293e9/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/f2cbb/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1789c/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/c26c2/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1dd6e/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/67b76/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 320w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/8df11/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 500w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/98a65/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 800w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1dd6e/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 960w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/3cc96/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When to Water the Lawn After Applying Weed and Feed | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed so that weed seeds do not germinate, weeds are killed, and the lawn fertilizer works, too."}}},{"node":{"id":"c27b03e6-fdd2-5ff3-abe2-fe3d9cdf3f61","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Different people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of […]
\n","content":"\nDifferent people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of weeds in grass using traditional, synthetic herbicides and safer methods like homemade recipes and manual tips.
\n\n\n\nWith so many ways to get rid of weeds, you do not have to let them confiscate your property.
\n\n\n\nThis article will also cover weed prevention. Keep reading to discover all the options you have for weed control on your lawn.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/5e95d48d-7801-4974-9206-35bbdb36b571.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nWeeds are unwanted plants growing in lawns, gardens, and fields. They compete with wanted vegetation for nutrients. Like any other plant, they can be categorized by their life cycles and type. Weeds can be annuals, biennials, or perennials. These unwanted plants fall into three types: broadleaf, grassy, and grass-like.
\n\n\n\nBefore you can get rid of weeds, you have to identify what type they are so you can choose an effective control method. Not all herbicides or manual removal methods work for all weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLearn a weed’s life cycle to figure out the best time to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides to control that weed.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year and spread by seed. Summer annuals sprout in the spring. They grow in the summer and fall and die in the winter. Crabgrass and goosegrass are some examples. Winter annuals sprout in late summer and early fall. They die when it gets hotter out, in late spring or early summer. Some examples of winter annual weeds are chickweed and henbit.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a two-year life cycle and germinate by seed. They are not as common in lawns as annual and perennial weeds. Common burdock and wild carrot are two examples.
\n\n\n\nPerennial weeds are also spread by seed and by stolons, bulbs, and rhizomes. These weeds are harder to control than annual weeds because they keep coming back, year after year, unless you remove their entire system of growth, including roots, stolons, and rhizomes. Plantain, thistle, and dandelions are some examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSome chemical treatments are only effective for certain types of weeds or specific weeds within a category. So, you must be able to identify the weeds growing in your grass before you can choose a suitable herbicide.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have broad and flat leaves that are not grass-like. Examples are perennials like thistle, plantain, chickweed, dandelions, and henbit.
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds have blades that look like grass. Crabgrass, quackgrass, annual bluegrass, and foxtail are some common grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nGrass-like weeds resemble grass but do not look as much like it as grassy weeds. The blades are triangular or tubular and shiny. Some examples are nutsedge, wild garlic, and wild onion.
\n\n\n\nOnce you have identified the type of weed in your yard, you can select the best organic herbicide, homemade weed killer recipe, synthetic herbicide, or manual removal method to control that specific weed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic herbicides have ingredients that are safer than the toxic chemicals found in traditional synthetic herbicides. However, you typically will not find these organic herbicides in most kitchens, like you would the options listed in the homemade weed killer section.
\n\n\n\nOrganic weed control products with the following active ingredients can be purchased from stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, and other home and garden suppliers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Olga Kriger / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal acts as a weed and feed product. It kills weed seeds like a pre-emergent herbicide and contains nitrogen to feed the grass.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Corn gluten meal is only effective at preventing weeds and fertilizing grass when the soil is wet, so give the lawn a light spray of water after using this product unless rain is forecasted later in the day to do it for you.
\n\n\n\nApply it before weed seeds germinate – in early spring for summer annuals and early fall for winter annuals – because corn gluten meal does nothing to kill weeds that have already sprouted. The nitrogen it contains can actually promote the growth of existing weeds.
\n\n\n\nMonthly reapplication may be required for lasting control. Corn gluten meal can kill the seeds of weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, henbit, and more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nVinegar is most effective at killing weeds when the vinegar is 20% acetic acid. The vinegar in your kitchen is only around 5% acetic acid, so you will need a special product called herbicidal vinegar to kill weeds. Herbicidal vinegar is a popular active ingredient in organic post-emergent herbicides. It can kill larger weeds and perennials, but multiple treatments are required.
\n\n\n\nThe acetic acid removes moisture from the plant’s foliage, breaking it down and killing the leaves. A natural surfactant, like yucca extract, is usually included in herbicides to help the vinegar solution stick to the weeds’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Herbicidal vinegar is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills all plants it comes into contact with, including grass. Never apply vinegar all over your lawn unless you’re trying to kill the existing grass so you can start a new lawn from scratch. Instead, spot-treat unwanted plants by placing the solution in a spray bottle and spraying weeds directly. Many commercial herbicides with vinegar come in a ready-to-spray bottle.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Herbicidal vinegar can burn the skin and cause severe eye injuries, such as blindness. Wear protective glasses and long sleeves when applying this product.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can also use ingredients already in your kitchen to make a homemade weed killer for your lawn. These DIY concoctions are safer for pets and humans than the chemicals in synthetic herbicides and much more affordable than organic herbicides you can buy at the store, but they may be less effective than either and may take multiple applications to produce results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"apple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/apple-cider-vinegar-next-to-apples-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: tylim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions are a commonly used DIY weed control method. The following are mixtures you can make using regular kitchen vinegar.
\n\n\n\nWhite Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 gallon of white vinegar
— 1 tablespoon of dish soap
— 1 cup of salt
Apple Cider Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— ½ gallon of apple cider vinegar
— ¼ cup of salt
— 1 teaspoon of dish soap
How to Apply: Mix the ingredients thoroughly and place the solution in a handheld spray bottle. Spray directly to weeds on a sunny day. The sun helps the acetic acid in the vinegar work.
\n\n\n\nThis non-selective DIY weed control will kill most broadleaf weeds and other plants, too, so be careful not to spray it directly on your grass. Solutions with 5% acetic acid may not kill dandelions and other plants with taproots. Use herbicidal vinegar for these types of stubborn weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt can change the pH level of the soil, make it sterile, and hurt plants, including weeds. The downside is that salt will also hurt grass and other landscape plants, so apply it only on the soil around weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: You can start with a 3-to-1 water-to-salt ratio and increase the amount of salt daily until it kills the weeds. Learn more in our in-depth article about using salt to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf preserving soil health is not a concern, apply a mixture with a 1:2 or 1:3 water-to-salt ratio. Add a small amount of liquid dish soap or white vinegar to make the weed killer stronger.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location with icy winters, you may have some rock salt on hand. This is the salt that eats away the ice. You can sprinkle some directly on the weeds or make a solution.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 cup of rock salt
— 1 gallon of hot water
How to Apply: Mix until the salt is dissolved. Pour into a spray bottle. Spray weeds directly. Respray the weeds after five days. Reapply the spray after waiting another five days. Avoid saturating the roots, as this can damage the soil and nearby plants. To protect your grass and ornamentals, water nearby vegetation after applying the salt solution to dilute it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBoil some water and pour it onto the weeds. This option, like all DIY weed killers, will damage your grass and other surrounding plants if it makes contact.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: It is best to place the hot water in a vessel with a spout, like a teapot. Allow it to soak into the plant roots. However, it may not kill the roots, which can result in weed regrowth.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRubbing alcohol kills weeds by draining moisture from the leaves. It will also drain moisture from grass blades and the foliage of other plants, so be sure to spray it directly onto the weeds, and do your best to avoid overspray.
\n\n\n\nRubbing Alcohol Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 2 tablespoons of alcohol
— 1 quart of water
How to Apply: Mix the solution in a spray bottle. Spray weeds individually, covering the leaves as much as possible with the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSynthetic herbicides come as pre-emergent, post-emergent, or as weed and feed products. These herbicides come with precautions as well as do’s and don’ts to be effective and not cause damage. Here are some examples:
\n\n\n\n— Be sure to use these at the right time of year and in the right temperature range. Pre-emergents and post-emergents work at different times, and if applied at the wrong time, they won’t do much at all.
— Synthetic herbicides can injure grass if applied during the wrong stage of your lawn’s growth. For example, pre-emergent products typically should only be applied to turfgrass that has been established for at least 12 months.
— Certain types of herbicides can only be used on certain grass types. Read product labels to find out which grass types it’s safe to use each product on.
— Not all chemicals kill all weeds. Some chemicals only work on broadleaf weeds, while others only work on grassy weeds. Some are even formulated to kill specific weed types. Read the product label carefully before purchasing a herbicide to make sure what you’re getting will actually work for the weeds on your lawn.
— Applying pre-emergents too soon after overseeding the lawn can prevent the new grass seeds from germinating.
Pre-emergent products must be applied before weed seeds start germinating. These herbicides kill weed seeds, but they do not kill grown weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are for preventing future weeds, not getting rid of existing ones.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: Administer in the spring for summer annual weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass. Apply when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees Fahrenheit or above for about 2 days or more.
\n\n\n\nFor winter annual weeds, like annual bluegrass and chickweed, apply in the early fall. The best time is when the soil temperature is approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 3 days.
\n\n\n\nA note on soil temperature: Applying pre-emergents at the right soil temperature is imperative to their success, so use a soil thermometer to get an accurate reading. A soil thermometer costs about $10 or less at a local gardening store or online.
\n\n\n\nSelective vs Non-selective: Most pre-emergent herbicides used for lawn weeds are selective herbicides, meaning they kill specific weed seeds without damaging other plants.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective herbicides, on the other hand, target all plants. To avoid eliminating wanted plants and grass, spot-treat unwanted vegetation by applying non-selective herbicides with a handheld sprayer. These herbicides will also prevent grass from growing, so do not use them when you have recently seeded the lawn or plan to seed the lawn in the near future.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides kill weeds that are sprouting. Weeds that are young and actively growing are the most susceptible to these types of herbicides.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: For perennial weeds and many types of annual weeds, the best time to apply post-emergent products is in the fall or late spring. Treat stubborn perennial weeds with deep root systems in the early spring. Apply when the soil temperature is greater than 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the air temperature is less than 85 degrees.
\n\n\n\nContact vs Systemic: Like pre-emergent chemicals, post-emergents come as selective and non-selective. However, unlike pre-emergents, post-emergents destroy plant parts, such as stems and roots. They do this in different ways.
\n\n\n\nContact-based post-emergent herbicides kill only the plant parts they come into contact with. They destroy parts above the ground, like the leaves. Completely killing weeds with contact herbicides may take many treatments, and you’ll have to manually remove the roots to prevent the weeds from coming back.
\n\n\n\nSystemic post-emergents kill the entire plant regardless of contact with specific parts. The weed absorbs the chemicals, which travel through the vegetation and attack its vascular system. The leaves, stems, and root systems are destroyed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Seed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/seed-spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides that also include lawn fertilizer. If applied at the right time, weed and feed can improve your grass and promote a thriving, green lawn at the same time as removing weeds. A healthy lawn decreases the risk of weed growth in the future.
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed is somewhat controversial because it combines herbicides and fertilizer, two types of chemicals that have different requirements for application. For example, grass needs to be fertilized at specific times to be healthy. If the timing to apply the weed control portion is not the same as the timing for the fertilizer, you can damage the grass. Do not apply weed and feed more than two times a year. Always read the label to know when to apply.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor pre-emergent, post-emergent, and weed and feed chemicals, read the labels to determine if the herbicide controls the weeds you are looking to manage, can be used on your grass type, and at what stage your grass is safe from being damaged by the chemicals.
\n\n\n\nFor weed and feeds, make sure the time of year the herbicide should be used is the same as the time your grass requires fertilization.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPulling weeds by hand or using a tool may be a little more time-consuming than other DIY methods or using synthetic chemicals. It may take more effort, too. The benefit is that manual methods will not release substances that can harm you, your loved ones, or the environment or change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/weeds.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Artur Henryk Bialosiewicz / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThese methods are best when you have a few weeds, and they are young. Wear gloves when removing weeds manually.
\n\n\n\nHow to Pull Weeds By Hand or With a Tool: Water the area or wait until after it rains. The wet ground makes it easier to pull up roots. Dig around the weed with a pointed garden trowel or weeding tool to loosen the soil. Use your hand or tool to pull up as much of the root system as possible so the weed will not grow back.
\n\n\n\nFor some weeds, like crabgrass, only pull by hand or tool when the seed head is closed. If you pull when the head is open, the seeds will spread and replant.
\n\n\n\nFor nutsedge, pull it by hand if the plant has fewer than five leaves. If there are many of these weeds, use a dethatcher or hoe.
\n\n\n\nAs you can see, whether you are applying DIY mixtures, synthetic chemicals, or manual methods, it is important to be able to identify the types of weeds you have so that you use the best weed control solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis device is also called a flame weeder. It is a propane tank with a wand attached that allows you to burn weeds. The flame weeder kills leaves and stem cells but does not kill the roots. It may take multiple treatments to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nObviously, since weed torches use an open flame to kill weeds, they can also harm your grass, or worse, you. Always wear protective clothing and a face covering when using a weed torch, and be very careful to keep the flame away from your grass and other plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare / License
\n\n\n\nThe best way to manage weeds is through prevention by practicing appropriate seasonal lawn care and maintenance. A dense and healthy lawn with grass at an adequate height can crowd out and prevent weed seeds from getting sufficient sun. Weeds will be less likely to sprout because they cannot get the water, nutrients, and space they need to grow.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of grass types: warm-season and cool-season grasses. Each type and the individual grasses within each type determine maintenance requirements, like mowing heights and the amount of fertilizer required. But here are some lawn maintenance practices that can be applied to grass in general for a weed-free lawn:
\n\n\n\nHow long does it take for a salt solution to kill weeds?
\n\n\n\nSalt usually kills weeds in about 10 days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs herbicidal vinegar dangerous?
\n\n\n\nVinegar containing more than 11% acetic acid can burn your skin and cause eye injuries, including blindness. Wear gloves, goggles, and protective clothing when using herbicidal vinegar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any chemicals that can be used on both cool and warm-season grass?
\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a pre-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on most warm and cool-season grass types. The post-emergent chemicals sulfentrazone and halosulfuron are safe for most types of grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFortunately, you have options to get rid of weeds in grass. The goal is not only to stop weeds before they sprout or kill them after sprouting but to have a healthy lawn that outcompetes weeds. For help keeping your lawn as thick and thriving as it can be, reach out to a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn and find out how much a regular lawn maintenance plan would cost for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SchulteProductions / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Weeds in Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1789c/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/107df/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 320w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/293e9/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 500w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/f2cbb/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 800w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1789c/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 960w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/c26c2/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1dd6e/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/67b76/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 320w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/8df11/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 500w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/98a65/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 800w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1dd6e/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 960w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/3cc96/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Weeds in Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn how to use organic methods, homemade recipes, manual solutions, and commercial herbicides to get rid of weeds in grass."}}},{"node":{"id":"d68823e9-2d73-5ba2-87c2-e498ffc77e24","slug":"lawn-love-review","path":"/blog/lawn-love-review/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Born and raised in Springfield, Illinois, Kimberly Magerl enjoys growing fruits and vegetables in her garden. When she isn't gardening, Kimberly enjoys trying new recipes and cooking with her home-grown herbs.","name":"Kimberly Magerl","id":"bdf803c6-4d01-5c0e-88b1-1ea590340a8a","path":"/author/kimberly-magerl/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/45ebe89479badde7ee7cb5108a96462c?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"January 20th, 2023","excerpt":"Lawn Love. Most customers absolutely love it. Our Lawn Love review looks at the lawn care company’s services, prices, customer reviews, competitors, and more to help you make a decision. But first, why is Wikilawn reviewing Lawn Love? We’re sizing up one of the big dogs in the lawn care services space to help you […]
\n","content":"\nLawn Love. Most customers absolutely love it. Our Lawn Love review looks at the lawn care company’s services, prices, customer reviews, competitors, and more to help you make a decision.
\n\n\n\nBut first, why is Wikilawn reviewing Lawn Love? We’re sizing up one of the big dogs in the lawn care services space to help you choose your lawn care provider. This review is also a chance for us internally to see how Lawn Love stacks up against Wikilawn.
\n\n\n\nOur conclusion: Lawn Love is overall a great convenient option if you want mowing and basic services. If you need something like a large landscaping job, it’s probably not for you.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nLawn Love is one of the major players in the lawn care service space, along with LawnStarter, Wikilawn, and GreenPal. Lawn Love makes it easy to book lawn care services in minutes via its website or by phone.
\n\n\n\nIn a 2019 interview, Lawn Love founder Jeremy Yamaguchi said he believed San Diego-based Lawn Love could do for yard care what Uber did for ride-sharing – make it fast, accessible and easy.
\n\n\n\n“Traditionally, consumers have had to wait for a lawn care worker to physically come to their property, offer a quote and schedule the service,” he said. “It can take weeks to get the job done after initial contact was made. We’re excited to be bringing modern lawn care to homeowners.”
\n\n\n\nLawn Love puts a high-tech spin on the normally low-tech business of lawn care and makes comparing quotes and booking a service.
\n\n\n\nStep 1: From the home page, enter your name, street address, and phone number and click “See price.”
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zrG8zUE4TpTjxQt5CIdGQYTwCI0FxHfnqmohOcZSpEMr7hnqSUw9ausPaZi8WequvcuJS1qqzQZ3u1JOFLec_r8N4h0cICvEwVm3MyPke56Di99TY9lnNgBN3zVanSE7bFvmIg9W-RLORbYlGF3fAJSIsagsUR8vQ-l_3vT4VKOGP_HRkqC1InFrWvtZmg\")
Step 2: Enter your personal and billing information in the form. Select your mowing frequency (weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly).
\n\n\n\nStep 3: Provide details about your property to help Lawn Love match you with the best service provider.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/r5HzxeP-I0_Sz7cxMySUwSZhQUTLB4iiIyWo6wae2NGl7st5METfo9NUPPM3DgoT9FHZIWHIbr64yP4SQZZtrNZoAegdJNDTymdje0-sQ9KaULzx_0GH4yxrrURAaEFbCy36RyDAq2mJty00V87oi3rebebqiP74WeRGzWqqb5ayqz3q59VpDSg1AHaasQ\")
Step 4: Plug in your payment information. Note: Lawn Love accepts only credit or debit card payments.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners require more than just quality lawn mowing, gutter cleaning, and leaf removal. Lawn Love provides more than a dozen services to help you maintain your green oasis year-round.
\n\n\n\nHere is a look at the main ones:
\n\n\n\n| Yard Services | Weed Services |
| Lawn Mowing | Weed Control |
| Edging | Organic Weed Control |
| Aeration | Pre-emergent Weed Services |
| Fertilization | Outdoor Services |
| Seeding | Gutter Cleaning and Installation |
| Yard Cleanup | Landscaping |
| Leaf Removal | Landscape Design |
Lawn Love uses local real estate records to calculate the size of your property and then generates a price quote.
\n\n\n\nIt’s difficult to provide an exact price for mowing services because there are so many variables, but a good range for an average, quarter-acre yard is $29 to $65. That includes edging and blowing grass clippings off patios and walkways.
\n\n\n\nSometimes, first-time Lawn Love customers can take advantage of a $19 first-time mowing special.
\n\n\n\nUnlike most of its competitors, Lawn Love offers at least some general guidance on what you can expect to pay for certain services. (Of course, your actual price will vary based on your yard size.):
\n\n\n\n$30 – $50 for bi-weekly mowing and trimming service
\n\n\n\n$35 – $50 for bi-weekly mowing and periodic fertilization
\n\n\n\n$80 – $120 for aeration service
\n\n\n\n$60 – $150 for leaf cleanup
\n\n\n\nWorth noting: Lawn Love’s lawn care pros don’t bag grass clippings. They may if you request it, but it’ll probably cost slightly more.
\n\n\n\nAlso worth noting: Lawn Love adds a Long Grass Fee for grass that is between 6 and 12 inches high. This is pretty standard practice in the industry. The Long Grass Fee can be 50% to 100% on top of the basic mowing price.
\n\n\n\nIt’s nearly impossible here to quote an average price for each outdoor service because the prices vary depending upon the size of your home or property, the type of work you need done, the region in which you live, and other factors.
\n\n\n\nLawn Love has built in safeguards to protect customers from shoddy work and unreliable contractors.
\n\n\n\nUser reviews are helpful for assessing customers’ satisfaction, and Lawn Love gets generally high marks from its customers.
\n\n\n\nHere is a random sampling of Lawn Love user reviews:
\n\n\n\nAffordable and Flexible: “My service provider was very professional and friendly. They took the time to do the job right and were on time, affordable, and flexible. I love the different options: weekly, bi-weekly, or even monthly. It was the best service I’ve ever had.” – George / Trustpilot
Online Scheduling: “I love Lawn Love’s service. I can conveniently schedule service online, and the pricing is more reasonable than most places. The crews are professional and proficient. I will keep using Lawn Love.” – Christie C. / REVIEWS.io
\n\n\n\nUnclear Booking Process: “I found Lawn Love on Google. Their online booking was a tad unclear, but the actual service was great! They were super fast. I got a text that they were on the way, and the crew did a fantastic job.” – Kristen / Trustpilot
\n\n\n\nDisappointed: “I was hoping with the mowing and maintenance and trimming that the yellow flowers would be trimmed in the front but, that wasn’t done or anything in the front. The backyard grass was uneven so I was hoping it would be an even cut but, now I have uneven low grass with bald spots.” – Priscilla / Trustpilot
\n\n\n\nLawn Love customers like the customer support and convenient online scheduling, but most wish Lawn Love’s sign-up process was a little clearer.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nThere are many affordable on-demand lawn care service providers. Here is a look at Lawn Love and its competitors, LawnStarter, GreenPal, and Wikilawn:
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/wC5V5lUJCCGOJvW9T2k0m0gV9QXw3JDVBm11da-rX5S4jp7okL1fnkAH-kmPFCzQhvRwoXpi1yDoc2Mf7YblSETlx7ll6wZKnsQkOWbR2FovXbgU05Zn-jlt4kw3c4d7PV7JKP3VhHS00MEi51xvm_1bzGHhiWIXcGqL6Zpvqw1sADc1XQs4qKa-Cdcwpw\")
| Locations | Available in most U.S. metro areas |
| Services offered | 12+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of publish date) | 4.7 on Trustpilot |
| How it works | You get an instant quote, then a Lawn Love pro near you is assigned to handle your job |
| Ways to book service | Website or phone |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $24. |
| Year founded | 2014 |
| Based in | San Diego |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | Yes |
![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Haym_9TP6o11NlzbZrzz5Sy3B3mZHbG9bzLvFqZzX42B-tnp5sqvlLR2GDXswMKkRykSzk-4YyfbZtTTjL8jRqxmb8D0-wtb2LZsUcTcW-FedyE4Tpv1dPSKYa3z5SuR_AdqolxL7YqibfWoXxwT8WdbkhCFoKUimdtDKcmrsMMC_dHpaNaf2uDLh4ib0g\")
| Locations | Available in most U.S. metro areas |
| Services offered | 20+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of publish date) | 4.6 out of 5 |
| How it works | You get an instant quote, then a LawnStarter pro near you is assigned to handle your job |
| Ways to book service | Website, phone, or mobile app |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $19. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Austin, Texas |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/plyOf0FATj24UAdoRevSr-YCW_5GznpB5Mii5xCNGMe1Ax0iiHWnTn4m0hX39XTwWtFR6RyH9neMjLqbDk1YDFJfNs4jFeEgQGPk7lOnxQi3E_-7stKG4_To8TweTUiDL0eLU3HaQCIeW1XJJTtMJKyNSSpFWe3enGydZ1Cnu8HhVHu42a5bQiJ6DYvFMA\")
| Locations | Available in most metro areas across the U.S. |
| Services offered | Lawn care, lawn maintenance, yard cleanups, snow removal |
| Customer reviews (average as of publish date) | 4.25 |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid |
| Ways to book service | Website, app or phone |
| Basic price | You’ll get multiple lawn mowing quotes from $25 to $45 |
| Year founded | 2012 |
| Based in | Nashville |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![\"Wikilawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/rsz_171e64b7d-5080-473b-9793-87d2629a1cca_4_5005_c.jpg\")
| Locations | Available in most U.S. metro areas |
| Services offered | Lawn mowing, landscaping, and gardening |
| Customer reviews (average as of publish date) | Unable to find customer review star ratings online |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid |
| Ways to book service | Website |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Dallas |
Sure, we’ve just given you the high points and the lowdown on Lawn Love, but you’re on the Wikilawn website. We’re the little lawn care site that could. We’re Avis. We try harder (and we succeed).
\n\n\n\n
Book your lawn care through Wikilawn and you’ll be connected to one of the best lawn care pros near you. Let me repeat that. You’ll get one of the best lawn care pros near you – not the best Lawn Love pro near you.
Here’s what you get with Wikilawn:
\n\n\n\nMore Pros: Wikilawn casts a bigger net to match you with the right lawn care pro for your job. LawnStarter, Lawn Love, and service providers like HomeAdvisor/Angi and Networx can bid on your job.
\n\n\n\nMaybe a Lower Price: Your lawn care may cost less too. More pros (more bidders) often leads to lower prices as they compete for your business. Of course, the price quotes you get back will depend upon the kind of work you want done, the size of your yard, and other factors.
\n\n\n\nEasy to Use: Lawn Love makes lawn care easy (just like Wikilawn).
\n\n\n\nSo with Lawn Love, will you love it or leave it? That’s up to you.
\n\n\n\nOf course, you could just use Wikilawn to find your next lawn care pro. You’re already here. Why go somewhere else?
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"Lawn Love Review: Services, Prices, Pros and Cons","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/1789c/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/107df/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/293e9/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/f2cbb/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/1789c/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/c26c2/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/1dd6e/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/67b76/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/8df11/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/98a65/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/1dd6e/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f1f57e1d19141e865529d4d7edcb23d2/3cc96/Lawn-Love-Review-for-Wikilawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Love Review: Services, Prices, Pros and Cons | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Will you love Lawn Love? That depends. Our Lawn Love review looks at its services, prices, customer reviews, and more."}}},{"node":{"id":"c36b05a7-74f1-5c15-b3a6-19dac76c309b","slug":"everything-to-know-about-kentucky-bluegrass","path":"/blog/landscaping/everything-to-know-about-kentucky-bluegrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 27th, 2019","excerpt":"For many lawn owners in the Northern half of the United States, Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) is synonymous with the ideal lawn, and for good reason. When given its preferred growing conditions and proper care, this grass produces a lush, dense, and durable lawn that lives up to its historic reputation. Part of the charm […]
\n","content":"\nFor many lawn owners in the Northern half of the United States, Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) is synonymous with the ideal lawn, and for good reason. When given its preferred growing conditions and proper care, this grass produces a lush, dense, and durable lawn that lives up to its historic reputation. Part of the charm of a healthy Kentucky bluegrass lawn is its rich emerald to blue-green color. Add to that its medium to fine texture and a Kentucky bluegrass lawn is both beautiful to look at and comfortable for bare feet and outdoor activities.
\n\n\n\nOften referred to in the grass industry by its initials KBG, Kentucky bluegrass quickly rose to become a premier lawn grass throughout much of the country. While the state of Kentucky may be known as the “Bluegrass State,” Kentucky bluegrass did not actually originate there. Like many common turf grasses in the United States, this widely used grass is native to Europe and northern Asia (1). Its first use in the U.S. was as a pasture grass in locations such as Kentucky, where it still covers the state’s well known gently rolling hills. KBG is what is known as a perennial, cool-season lawn grass. This means it comes back year after year and grows most vigorously during the cool seasons of fall and spring. KBG has the greatest cold hardiness of all the common cool-season lawn grasses (2). It is used most extensively in northern climates where moderately warm summers and cold winters follow with its natural preferences and growth cycle.
Compared to tall fescue, traditional Kentucky bluegrass varieties have relatively shallow roots, which typically lead to lower tolerances for heat and drought (3). Historically, this has restricted the widespread use of KBG south of the climatically challenging ‘transition zone’, where higher heat and humidity favor warm-season grasses, such as Zoysia and St. Augustine grass.
\n\n\n\nUnlike bunch-forming grasses, such as tall fescue and ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass is a true self-spreading, sod-forming grass. Once established, it spreads readily by using underground stems (known as rhizomes) to form a dense and thick turf. This aggressive growth habit gives KBG the capacity to recuperate quickly from damage. Depending on your grass growing region and your lawn care goals, Kentucky bluegrass may be a perfect choice for you. As with other cool-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass growth slows significantly during hot summer months. During extreme heat or extended drought, the grass will go dormant. However, it recovers quickly with irrigation and a return to normal conditions.
\n\n\n\nKBG establishes easily from seed, but it germinates more slowly than some other cool-season grasses. Fast-growing perennial ryegrass, for example, germinates in one-third the time of Kentucky bluegrass (1). Kentucky bluegrass prefers full sun, but some varieties can do well in lightly shaded areas. Look on the seed tag label of many grass seed mixes, including shade and sun & shade mixes, and you’ll find KBG varieties mixed with other cool-season grasses. Fast-greening perennial ryegrass and shade-tolerant fescues complement Kentucky bluegrass’s strengths to create versatile, lush, cool-season lawns. Durable KBG is also a regular component of seed mixes for athletic fields.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass seed is better adapted to high foot-traffic and compacted soil. This makes the grass ideal for yards with children and dogs, park areas and sports fields. For the most part, Bluegrasses have the ability to recover from injury and disturbance due to their spreading rhizomes. This also gives them excellent winter hardiness. When properly watered during its growing seasons, bluegrass will grow back and fill-in after freezing, drought and periods of high-traffic.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass matures into a beautiful, sod-forming turf with a fine texture and blue-green blades that form dense, spreading mats. Regular mowing will help bluegrass become thick, lush and uniform lawns.
\n\n\n\nWhile Kentucky bluegrass is lovely for many reasons, it can not achieve its full beauty on its own. This grass actually requires a relatively high level of maintenance to look its absolute, but the results of the extra tender loving grass care can be worth it.
\n\n\n\nWith Kentucky bluegrass and other cool-season lawn grasses, the best time to plant seed and do major lawn maintenance is during early fall, as KBG growth progress is at its peak. Because of KBG’s rhizomatous growth, the grass develops thatch easily, which can add to drought stress and potential for disease. Depending on your mowing and care practices, your KBG lawn may need dethatching every year or two.
\n\n\n\nWise water management is essential for Kentucky bluegrass lawns. Deep, thorough irrigation helps encourage deep root growth, while shallow, frequent watering discourages proper growth. During normal weather, a typical KBG lawn needs at least 1 inch of water weekly from irrigation or rainfall. During warmer weather and in the transition zone, 2 inches or more per week may be needed (1). While the relatively shallow roots of traditional KBG varieties historically required more water than tall fescue or most warm-season counterparts in similar situations, modern developments have greatly improved water efficiency.
\n\n\n\nLike other cool-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass should be mowed higher than warm-season grasses. Warm-season Bermudagrass, for example, is routinely kept near 1 inch tall, but KBG should be mowed to 2 to 2 1/2 inches high. During periods of high heat and lower rainfall, recommended KBG mowing heights increase to 3 to 4 inches (1).
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass lawns typically require more fertilizer than tall fescue and other grasses. In alkaline soils, blades can lose their rich green color due to pH-induced iron deficiency. The optimal soil pH for KBG lawns is near 5.8 to 7.0. (2) Regular soil testing every three to four years can help you maintain a healthy pH balance and rich KBG color with the help of quality lawn fertilizers, soil amendments and mineral supplements (3).
\n\n\n\nWhile this might seem like a lot of maintenance items to keep up on, as we’ve shown the benefits of KBG can definitely outweigh the time and energy required to keep the grass at its peak.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass seeds will tolerate limited shade but grow best in full sun. Some varieties of bluegrass have been bred to be more tolerant of shading, but dense shade is a limiting factor to the vigor of a bluegrass lawn. KBG requires well-drained soil and consistent moisture for optimal health and beauty (3). Due to shallow roots, bluegrasses will quickly go dormant if subjected to extended drought or under-watering.
\n\n\n\nStill unsure of how to best care for your Kentucky Bluegrass lawn? Check out your state’s agricultural extension office for helpful tips and soil testing kits that will help you determine your best lawn care plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in the northern or central United States and your lawn needs call for a durable and wear-resistant cool-season lawn that can grow thick and lush, Kentucky Bluegrass may be the perfect solution providing you seasons of turfgrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\nSources:
\n\n\n\n1. Duble, R.L., “Kentucky Bluegrass,” Texas A&M Agrilife Extension.
\n\n\n\n2. Patton, A. and Boyd J., “Choosing a Grass for Arkansas Lawns,” University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension.
\n\n\n\n3. Cook, T., “Kentucky Bluegrass, Poa Pratensis L.,” Oregon State University Department of Horticulture.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Source
\n","title":"Everything to Know About Kentucky Bluegrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4987951807228916,"src":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/9461e/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/107df/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/293e9/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/9461e/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 622w","srcWebp":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/fb518/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/67b76/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/8df11/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/fb518/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 622w","sizes":"(max-width: 622px) 100vw, 622px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Everything to Know About Kentucky Bluegrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"This is the comprehensive Kentucky Bluegrass guide. Read more to find out characteristics, maintenance do's and don'ts, and more!"}}},{"node":{"id":"e401ec73-35b8-5c01-9cb8-e0f57b2a3fc2","slug":"lawnstarter-review","path":"/blog/lawnstarter-review/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nick Crawford is a blog writer based in Philadelphia. He enjoys writing just as much as he enjoys reading a good book, cooking, and working out in his spare time.","name":"Nick Crawford","id":"5213edde-9943-5767-a5ae-163493ecfae5","path":"/author/nick-crawford/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7ce3281d49bd9eb99cb1c4f0200247d3?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"January 20th, 2023","excerpt":"LawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors. Interestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles. […]
\n","content":"\nLawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors.
\n\n\n\nInterestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles.
\n\n\n\n“So many people are trying to make an ‘Uber for X’. There’s only one Uber, and that’s Uber,” LawnStarter co-founder Ryan Farley says. “We’re not an on-demand, real-time company. It makes no sense for lawn care to be that way.”
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/zE1ChS6Og1vxg-VYYe-AZ1xQfxm_SCWMlJridVo3t3SbBRr0-DQ7fGQBOnXXrVIF_-fK13INDU1Eb7DBU4cipmMW9FYqoYrAVjzaIvLsQHn9amuSoHAirxtTuCR9DU0tjJH3713Fmn6txczEN89fuxBUW5_jJeGWs5QC8B8Ie5c362bNQFG9pjBEsnOlVg\")
Whether the company is Uber-like or not, it has become the largest, most popular way for homeowners to care for their lawn, and for good reason.
\n\n\n\nIn this Review:
\n\n\n\nWhy is Wikilawn reviewing LawnStarter? Wikilawn was created to compete with LawnStarter and similar sites, and our aim is to one day be better than all of them.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter connects you with lawn care and other outdoor services pros in your area.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2KG41896TuXxdLqF8YIT4jhawWKzzJNYCx2kqiPBDVpFnrTveSXyRTdPPIYcfUQ_ObuqYTDFB9orpDAe9SJQ3qXgvZYBnnnQZHMHPGjSW1-KIaQvbK7o5Isq1D7wSPADQBxddUStmD6kYKW4I0TsJHNU2Ws3QN5HhzXtqPh5nfUsk1a0OmI0yfxDChX8NA\")
How it works: You can get instant quotes for outdoor services by phone, the LawnStarter website, or by the startup’s app, which likely is how that whole “Uber of lawn care” comparison got started.
\n\n\n\nPayment is by credit card or debit card, and if your pro did a great job, you can even tip her or him via the app.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter history: LawnStarter started in Austin, Texas, in 2013, as a lawn care service provider. The company has grown and now operates in nearly every major metro across the U.S. and can connect you with pros for all sorts of outdoor services.
\n\n\n\nThe Uber of lawn care is now the Uber of all outdoor services.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f8VoxgybN4tQceQNQoMpGYckFpKkdxUWLtcfoSiYynu_uDWFceOjRfziA86avkp79KZdJflNCDueAyb2ZGBfbX2CjZ0WHfm2gdro3lL8BGxfgS7z5GRYNKPUkf-OD6sYgTTpuW4J1mwiEecbOyWrPciv1IFbvsEM5rNOnoojSHw5Fm2z_48Shewgf4spRg\")
LawnStarter uses local real estate records to calculate the size of your property and then generates a price quote. It often offers a $19 first-time mowing special for new customers. After that, mowing prices generally start at $29 per week. Price varies by the size of your yard.
\n\n\n\nA good range for an average, quarter-acre yard is $29 to $65. That includes edging and blowing grass clippings off patios and walkways. Generally, LawnStarter’s lawn care pros don’t bag clippings. They may if you request it, but expect to pay slightly more.
\n\n\n\nWorth Noting: If your grass is super long, say between 6 and 12 inches, LawnStarter tacks on an additional charge, which can be quite steep.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers 20-plus outdoor services. It’s nearly impossible here to quote an average price for each service because the cost varies somewhat depending upon the size of your home or property, the type of work you need done, the region in which you live, and other factors.
\n\n\n\nHowever, you can get free quotes for any kind of work within seconds on the LawnStarter website or on the app.
\n\n\n\nJust want your lawn mowed and kept in tip-top shape? Maybe you’ll decide that LawnStarter, with all of its various services, is a non-starter for you. After all, can one site do everything well?
\n\n\n\nTry us at Wikilawn. You simply choose the lawn care service you want, put in your address, and we put your job out to bid to local yard care professionals.
\n\n\n\nThe price quotes you get back will depend on the size of your yard and other factors, but we cast a really wide net through sites like Lawn Love, HomeAdvisor, and Networx to ensure you get the best price possible.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you use LawnStarter?
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/F_Wb07EsZcD87OnSk4go6mMlAV12fhHbrTCo_7hZK9SvfA8oRYI7TWPnv-b22O4pCksryWYZsTMmevIOsekIvXhyk4TM-DuFe0W_GuD8U8_kguJP4_3OY2aEJACul-qQZQjK2sflSXUzmSevEjq3lDMBax2rZozFQEWtZU2AqHsXdzfkYj5kWxKIP7-gRA\")
Visit LawnStarter or log onto the mobile app. Enter your address, name, and phone number into the search bar, and click the “Request Quote” button.
\n\n\n\nNote: LawnStarter’s app offers a more stripped-down menu of services. If you want to book lawn care services, the app works great. If you want other outdoor services, the LawnStarter website is your better option.
\n\n\n\nChoose one or more services from the menu. For lawn care, choose your frequency (weekly, bi-weekly, and monthly).
Click “Get Free Quotes” (after you ensure your contact information is correct, of course).
\n\n\n\nWhat’s next?
\n\n\n\nFor lawn care services: LawnStarter will match you with a lawn care provider near you and your first service will be scheduled.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers more services than competitors Lawn Love and GreenPal, but here’s a closer look at how LawnStarter, Lawn Love, GreenPal, and Wikilawn compare.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ydc33opV1-rL95WHorZodYWXsTeFolKwfQalWcPCkWQx14IDTA0P1ssgldltjXteXKtu2rPtS4tPbsP7TpkkER-JXLek74kQv2Rkh5lOGW0ZeO6XOJ3it1i1XeNxlUK9x96rlQppEj5_DfrrZ5yhrU8-7xzoVvxHMuWr1TPc_ACDoJu8Y_TIDkywyy7Okg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 20+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.8 out of 5 |
| How it works | A LawnStarter pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website, phone, or mobile app |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $19. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Austin, Texas |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NdWBnc_CMKGsu53lEo6S3m8yjOmvI1qXfg1Gn9zQz-c12dlZ20o8SEhPgbhugL5XM8iLLNVTSXWtPRzmZMuSPdvIMGgEyYZNV7eabwPN0Q7RfY_hk3CVtXZpY8TES-Z7F8nmDFUDyK1EgrtxdG-auo9lhx9BF-wlJMtQ4E_qa8jsNiPn4AETl0PJHm1eAg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 10+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.7 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | A Lawn Love pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website or phone |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $24. |
| Year founded | 2014 |
| Based in | San Diego |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | Yes |
![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/96aKsbY4azkOr7uppJEgLUvkVRI2hEJ-I8tb-X_d_Z8yqght8QC-DHOvipqesRRZXh6p4Tn1rHJ22MPjAUvSAe4nFw82tDfyONMhKrPzuCdn5CLPWP91VN58np0Y4jBaJJMyW9KIzNpZPkxeg8S_nnfS6tuRyo5v7iZ7YHQXZ8dTIh-Al5wMNog3govGew\")
| Metro areas covered | 100+ |
| Services offered | Lawn care, lawn maintenance, yard cleanups, snow removal |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.6 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid to lawn care pros near you |
| Ways to book service | Website, app or phone |
| Basic price | You’ll get multiple lawn mowing quotes from $25 to $45 |
| Year founded | 2012 |
| Based in | Nashville |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
| Metro areas covered | Available in most U.S. metro |
| Services offered | Lawn care, gardening, and landscaping |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | No ratings available online |
| How it works | You’ll get a quote in minutes from up to 4 professionals who can tackle your lawn care or other outdoor job. |
| Ways to book service | Website |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and the service providers’ quotes. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Dallas |
No product or service is perfect. Here are what LawnStarter excels and where it needs improvement.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter does get high marks from customers (as of this writing).
\n\n\n\nHere are a few of the customer reviews, both positive and negative:
\n\n\n\nWell Done and Thorough: “Good professional work on my large lawn (I am recovering from surgery and cannot push my own lawn machinery around for a number of weeks). Well done, thorough, completes the job. I feel I’ve contracted with a fine lawn service to fill in for me while I’m still unable to do it. … Much appreciated!” – Steve B.
\n\n\n\nSaved Me a Ton of Grief: “They have not failed to come out and do a good job for over 2 years. … (LawnStarter) has saved me a ton of grief for arranging services myself.” – Karl K.
\n\n\n\nFirst Time Wasn’t the Charm: “Our initial (LawnStarter) appointment was missed by the assigned person. After contacting the app, we were assigned a new company and are very happy with them. So far, any issues I have had have been promptly and without any hassle on my part.” – R. McCann
\n\n\n\nBroken Sprinkler Head: “I had my sprinkler head broken several times during my service. Both times I was given the option to have them replace the item or for me to be reimbursed. Both times I selected to have them replaced and both times was told they could not replace it, only offer me a small credit to replace the item.” – Justin
\n\n\n\nWe at Wikilawn make it easy to hire a lawn care pro to keep your grass green and healthy. It often will cost you less than LawnStarter and the other guys, too, because we cast the biggest net of lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nSo before you go somewhere else, you’re already here.
\n\n\n\nLet Wikilawn find a lawn care pro near you to cut your grass and boost your home’s curb appeal.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zYKvKOakIX9l8YnT-rPYa_hqJVssZWRFL9E45BMkrNsYuL8AYV5LgnRAEQYxv0fBZoAllKjSH5NkrS_mDVp5HmPmLfNfSv_Mrfez2OO2rEJlrw8CV05cL-gfLZPLsooafCqv9IBhmtq7DX1kfy7fS4WClSMjVbcgelnybnn1TpCWo5-STXbEo4ePqqP5Gw\")
But, circling back to the beginning of this review … Is the Uber of lawn care legit? We think so.
\n\n\n\nYou trust Uber to get you to the airport or to deliver dinner. Uber is ubiquitous. If you want a fancy app to book your lawn care service, sure, go with the so-called Uber of outdoor services – sorry, Mr. Farley.
\n\n\n\nOr you could just book your lawn care through Wikilawn. (Wink-wink, nudge-nudge.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"LawnStarter Review: Reviews, Services, Prices, and Alternatives","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7796143250688705,"src":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/bc41c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/107df/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/293e9/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/bc41c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.jpg 646w","srcWebp":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/7328c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/67b76/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 320w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/8df11/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 500w,\n/static/c6947c73542ff36eebc59af310eca73e/7328c/LawnStarter-Review-for-Wikilawn-646x363-1.webp 646w","sizes":"(max-width: 646px) 100vw, 646px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"LawnStarter Review: Reviews, Services, Prices, and Alternatives | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Does LawnStarter live up to its reputation as the “Uber of lawn care?” Our LawnStarter review looks at its services, prices, customer reviews, and more."}}},{"node":{"id":"0cae6c7f-d05a-55a4-9bf8-5213acbf89bd","slug":"victory-garden","path":"/blog/home-and-garden/victory-garden/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Brenda Stuart is a radio journalist and content manager whose goal is to have the greenest lawn and prettiest garden on the block.","name":"Brenda Stuart","id":"fcad9a7b-532b-583f-832f-0cffbbcfa0a3","path":"/author/brendastuartryangmail-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5e5ae7b8ac8b21db046b4f507fbec2aa?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"a4b803e1-5b3a-516a-b5b4-c5b50b2ae834","name":"Home & Garden","count":19,"path":"/category/blog/home-and-garden/"}],"date":"April 14th, 2020","excerpt":"How a Modern-Day ‘Victory Garden’ Can Help You Through the Coronavirus Pandemic As the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to […]
\n","content":"\nAs the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to lay in enough food, water, medicine, disinfectants, and other supplies to last for several weeks of self-isolation.
\n\n\n\nDuring uncertain times like these, it’s natural to wonder whether you could practice social distancing and simultaneously minimize your long-term dependency on the grocery store by growing food and natural remedies in your own backyard. The answer is yes — with plenty of planning, effort, and time (which, if you’re stuck at home, you’ll have more of than usual). Here are things to think about, plus tips for preparing, planting, and maintaining a garden that can help you survive an emergency.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t have to become a full-blown prepper or try to survive exclusively off the land. Think of it more like the victory gardens your grandparents or great-grandparents may have planted. You can grow some herbs and vegetables in pots on a balcony or convert a large portion of your yard to staple crops, or anything in between. Either way:
\n\n\n\nAnyone! Obviously, the space you have and the time you’re willing to spend will determine the scale. Few people can completely support themselves, especially right away — but anything you grow helps your budget and saves a trip to the store.
\n\n\n\nEspecially if you’re new to the gardening game, it can help to:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ajPU9FrhuAjKC-fQLjorDE1Vor0MHxPQqBa8Q9l0T-sG2jnvW9tG5b3pS30SEzuT-nwjcTJXJgAGF5p5JAmmpFgm--1oJFdPCXGymEU8A6Csz8DBImQLpd7cyF1LONqtRLpJ8uJZ\")
If you want good results, you can’t just start sticking plants in the ground. Gardening depends on a lot of factors, and you need to consider them first. (THEN you can start sticking plants in the ground!)
Think about:
\n\n\n\nThe country’s median garden size is about 96 square feet (8 feet by 12 feet). That’s very close to 100 square feet — the ideal size for a summer vegetable garden that can fill the needs of one person.
\n\n\n\nSo, how much food can a space like that yield? One gardener writing for Mother Earth News calculated her 100-square-foot plot’s annual yield at 77.5 pounds of tomatoes, 15.5 pounds of bell peppers, 14.3 pounds of lettuce, 2.5 pounds of basil, and 126 pounds of zucchini!
\n\n\n\nAlso pay attention to the amount of sun and shade your intended plot will get, so you can decide which plants should go where. Lots of gardening websites offer garden planners to help you visualize and design your plot.
\n\n\n\nA clean water supply is important, of course. Unless your area gets a lot of rainfall, you’ll probably be watering from your household water supply by hand, hose, or sprinkler. It’s easy to install a water filter to prevent chlorine, salts, and other chemicals from getting into your soil and your food — there are filters that screw right onto your garden hose!
\n\n\n\nYou’ll also need fertile soil that’s been tilled or loosened and is free of rocks and debris. If you’re converting a yard from turf, turning the soil for the first time will be one of the most time- and labor-intensive steps in the process. Prepare yourself now!
\n\n\n\nYou can learn things about your soil in the process, including its history of pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer use. You’ll also get to know the consistency of the soil texture — what proportions of sand, silt, clay, or loam it contains — plus how much rock you’ll need to remove.
\n\n\n\nA garden will take up as much time as you give it, but most sources seem to agree that once plants are in the ground and growing, you’ll devote at minimum 5-10 hours per week to planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc.
\n\n\n\nAlso, when starting a survival garden, you probably want the period from planting to harvest to take as little time as possible, so consider sowing some fast-growing plants in your first crop. (See 17 Fastest-Growing Backyard Crops, below, for suggestions.)
There are some basic tools every backyard gardener needs to begin with, including:
\n\n\n\nOnce your garden starts growing and you get a little deeper in, you also might need:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FCQrAn04mB_snbI5J9SjwmYuTLmEicgYhZF9N0T6y1cl_h2p4XyTEf-acUONsMvrIsACQPGYgYJ4s6K_if6UsVvKi3QNmBLrONRS3rdQp_N7JFdA-zW_2Mo9ThUqh4iTc4bWeAN2\")
When it comes to selecting crops for a survival garden, everybody has different needs and tastes. Here’s a basic example of the types of staple crops you can plant:
\n\n\n\nThese veggies have different growing seasons, which can allow you to start a few kinds of plants at a time and focus on establishing them before it’s time to get the next crop going. (Just make sure to plan your garden layout with enough room for everybody.) This also means there should be something new that’s ready to harvest throughout most of the year.
\n\n\n\nThere are plenty of different lenses to help you focus your plant choices. You can consider growing time; ease of cultivation; protein, calorie or vitamin content. Luckily, many plants show up on multiple lists and grow well in your area. If you like to eat them (and bonus: if your kids like to eat them), then give them a try in your victory garden!
\n\n\n\nRemember growing bean sprouts in school? There’s a reason kindergarten teachers everywhere choose them: The seeds sprout and turn in visible results in almost no time.
| Food | Average days from sowing to harvest |
| green onions | 20-30 days |
| radishes | 25 days |
| spinach | 30 days |
| arugula | 30 days |
| carrots | 30-50 days |
| lettuce | 30-45 days |
| summer squash/ zucchini | 35 days |
| bush beans | 60 days |
| bok choy | 45-60 days |
| cucumbers | 50 days |
| beets | greens: 30 days / roots: 50 days |
| okra | 50-55 days |
| kale | 50-65 days |
| snow peas | 60 days |
| broccoli | 60 days |
| turnips | greens: 40 days / roots: 60 days |
Start your first survival garden season with some of these fast-growing crops, and you could be harvesting dinner within a few months.
Some crops are just easier than others. First-timer? You might want to stick with the crops easiest to grow in your area. Got some dirt under your nails? Go for the more finicky varieties.
\n\n\n\n| Easier-to-grow crops | Harder-to-grow crops |
| cucumbers | arugula |
| garlic | bok choy |
| green beans | broccoli |
| kale | cauliflower |
| lettuce | eggplant |
| peas | mustard greens |
| potatoes | onions |
| radishes* | radishes* |
| summer squash/ zucchini | spinach |
*Wondering why radishes show up on both the easy-to-grow and hard-to-grow lists? Because it’s easy to get radishes sprouted and growing, but not always easy to keep this cool-weather plant from bolting (prematurely flowering and going to seed before producing food) in warm weather. The same is true for many on the hard-to-grow list.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7Yq5PyMIaG19xvaGbAMWwzljZf_L_koSskCafJvn8meFWXnRMFxb0edNXNBihTTJW1xyEGBoMtLgMgnN88fiY6iGmKuroL_LpaSULhzy8WrKYPzC1Dz2pvOe9cD4-PU8MBa6s8Mn\")
If you’re trying to keep your family fed in a crisis situation, calories (boosting them, that is — not cutting them down!) may become more important than you ever thought possible. These are among the most calorie-dense crops you can plant.
| Food | Average calories |
| sunflower seeds | 700 kcals per cup (shelled) |
| avocado | 370 kcals per cup (puréed) |
| soybeans | 300 kcals per cup |
| potatoes | 260 kcals each (medium) |
| lima beans | 210 kcals per cup |
| corn | 130 kcals per ear |
| sweet potatoes | 130 kcals each (medium) |
| pinto beans | 80 kcals per cup |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Protein is also important for maintaining proper health. There are plenty of ways to get protein into your garden and onto your plate.
| Food | Average protein per cup |
| soybeans | 68 grams |
| pumpkin seeds | 36 grams |
| pinto beans | 28 grams |
| quinoa | 24 grams |
| buckwheat | 22 grams |
| peanuts | 16 grams |
| chickpeas | 14 grams |
| broccoli | 2.5 grams |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Besides legumes and grains, many green veggies are high in protein — such as broccoli, which contains more protein per calorie than steak. (You’d just have to eat many more mouthfuls of greens to get the same number of calories as you’d get from the animal products.)
A smart way to reduce food waste and get more of the crops you already like to eat is to regrow food from cuttings. This also saves unnecessary trips to the store or garden center. If you’ve never done this before, now is a great time to start. Here are some foods you can regrow.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/foods-grow-from-cuttings-424x1024.png\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/y3g3ijCjNGPvHrh4BSQpVnskWjnV4j85j1X7lgbPoC-vgSwK_MwmBaOl4IP53eiGu8hBPZhcrGx_RW2KUFt1aGmOGdgsxLiV-GaYCIJbtpPFAPpQyyH8fM8kgdJ2rZlnDTlybKUp\")
Both in the soil and in your home, vegetables in your survival garden will be complemented by other plants. Medicinal herbs can replace store-bought supplements or pharmaceuticals in healing injury and relieving illnesses, and other plants can help you replace household items.
\n\n\n\nSelf-sufficiency is always a great feeling, but it’s of much greater importance during a crisis. If store-bought pharmaceuticals are unavailable, you might be able to harvest something from the garden to help relieve an injury or malady. These are some conditions that have been treated using medicinal herbs:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/medicinal-gardening-plants-515x1024.png\")
For centuries, people have made tea from the leaves of various plants to relieve certain ailments. Here are some plants that make herbal teas believed to offer health benefits:
\n\n\n\nBecause of their natural antiseptic and pain-relieving benefits, these plants can be made into topical applications — oils, ointments, washes, poultices, or salves — to relieve skin irritation, inflammation, or muscular pain, as well as heal cuts, scrapes, bruises, and burns.
\n\n\n\nSome medicinal plants look like other plants that can be toxic or even deadly, so make sure you pay attention. (And remember: This is by no means a comprehensive list!)
\n\n\n\nAlso, some plants have similar names. For example, don’t confuse black cohosh — used for easing menstrual cramps and hot flashes — with blue cohosh, which can cause miscarriage in pregnant women. The raw berries also can cause vomiting and diarrhea in children if ingested.
Hopefully, you won’t run out of toilet paper or any of the next-most-useful replacements like tissues, napkins, or paper towels. But if you get to the point of looking for rugged, old-school solutions, leaves are your best bet. Check your backyard. The following trees and plants are good candidates because of the size, softness, thickness, and durability of their leaves. As a bonus, they also generally don’t contain any skin-irritating chemicals.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/leaves-toilet-paper-530x1024.png\")
If you don’t already have access to any of these, it might not be a bad idea to plant a few — just in case. Mullein, mallow, lamb’s ear, and asters do well in gardens across the U.S. Corn lily and thimbleberry are mountainous and grow best at higher altitudes. (Remember: It’s important to make sure you know exactly what a plant is before you use it on any part of your body.)
Of course you’ve stocked plenty of rope among your supplies. But what happens if it gets lost, stolen, or somehow compromised? You make your own rope, of course — armed with know-how, plenty of time, immense patience, no small amount of labor, and any of these plants.
![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/plants-to-use-for-rope-792x1024.png\")
Some of these fibrous plants will work better than others in your garden. Milkweed complements mainstream garden life, encouraging butterflies that help with pollination. Conversely, because of their unfriendly properties, dogbane and stinging nettle require a more out-of-the-way spot.
The United States is immense, so there’s no single typical growing season or harvest period. Instead, the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture has designated “plant hardiness zones” to guide planting all across the country. The zones are determined by the lowest winter temperatures (historically averaged) as they occur across the geographic areas of the U.S.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/HQQYKeGK6GIU9sUn_w4EXbso5sQmYqCPfoOlFyo9Mrdbcdq9nkiAHy5FYKOjtyyqKW_7BIexOk_bETF1_Iz7Obdrki04UicfuEG07ykbCRvc2TgpT4-5lyMpf0C1Wxf8Nazx10r-\")
Hardiness zone maps are also accessible by state or by region. Using them to figure out the specific temperature range for your area can help you gauge which plants will grow best and last longest.
\n\n\n\nOnce you know your zone, you can begin to figure out a timetable that will work for gardening in your area. Several websites provide a planting and harvest calendar for each zone, as well as suggestions for vegetables and general planting advice.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve decided what to grow and planned where and when to grow it, it’s finally time for the how: Get your hands dirty and dig into the soil!
\n\n\n\nRaised beds
\n\n\n\nOne of the most common gardening methods, planting in raised beds involves turning the bed soil, then adding more soil and compost on top. Beds can be contained in boxes where the entire surface is raised, or soil can be formed into mounds or rows above the original surface. A raised-bed design can offer several advantages:
\n\n\n\nHills
\n\n\n\nYou’ve heard the expression “doesn’t amount to a hill of beans?” Yep, beans grow best in hills. Planting in hills (or mounds) works well for vining plants like beans, squash, cucumbers, and melons. Often they’re planted with a vertical frame for the vines to climb.
\n\n\n\nRows
\n\n\n\nTraditional gardens planted in rows can be especially useful for supporting large crops like corn, canning tomatoes, potatoes and other produce that takes up a lot of room.
\n\n\n\nWhen your food is coming from it, you want to make sure your soil is as clean, chemical-free, and nutritious as possible. If you or previous land occupants have used pesticides or herbicides in the bed soil, you’ll probably want to make raised beds and add organic soil and compost. After that, adding an annual layer of compost adds nutrients and continually improves the soil.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers From the Kitchen
\n\n\n\nYou’re also probably looking for a shorter timeline than it takes for a compost pile to “ripen” for use, so meanwhile, you can divert these classic compost ingredients directly into the soil as DIY fertilizers:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/things-to-add-to-soil-compost.png\")
Vegetables and other plants vary in the forms they best grow from: seeds or seedlings. Here’s an overview of each type, plus some advice on getting them started:
\n\n\n\nTo grow some vegetables, you can just stick a seed in the ground, let it germinate, and cultivate it from there. Easier than cuttings, and cheaper than seedlings! These plants include:
\n\n\n\nThe basics of planting seeds, of course, are the much the same as for any type of planting:
\n\n\n\nCreative planting tip: Did you know you can sprout seeds in eggshells? Simply take several clean, empty shells, carefully poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each, then set into an egg carton. Fill each shell with some potting soil, sprinkle a few seeds of your choice, then lightly rake a little soil over them. Set in a sunny spot and keep moist with a mister until leaves sprout. Then, you can plant the entire thing into a pot, and the eggshell will fertilize the plant it helped sprout! This can also be done with hollowed-out citrus peels.
\n\n\n\nSome plants are notoriously hard to germinate from seeds and/or keep alive. Seedlings are more mature and stronger (as well as more pest-resistant) when they’re transplanted, so you’re less likely to lose plants at the beginning. Plants grown from seedlings also mature faster, getting you to harvest sooner.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/EvElFSghgX6CRJsBbzhdgW8IBwqB2VQdCWHX82pxMRbEMLUZ2xKkrbPyO2RRH-sP__hp1iw3HS_ZOS7aPx0QSCPsHKlOHY6dJsT5IZ8DMPUoLv0VOF574z4yYHiaZ6YAFFyAi6aU\")
Once they’re in the ground and doing their thing, your job is to keep watch over your plants and protect them from all the things that can cause them harm. Fortunately, there are several creative gardening hacks to help you tend your plants and help them grow. Here are just a few.
\n\n\n\nThese are the planting seasons for vegetables, some fruits, and herbs in different parts of the country.
\n\n\n\n| What and When to Plant in the U.S. | ||||
| Region | Spring (March-May) | Summer (June-Aug) | Fall (Sept-Nov) | Winter (Dec-Feb) |
Pacific Northwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | apples, artichokes, arugula, asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, blueberries, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, greens, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, onions, parsnips, peas, pears, pole beans, potatoes, pumpkins, raspberries, radishes, scallions, shallots, snap peas, snow peas, strawberries, spinach, sorrel | bush beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, eggplants, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, peppers, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, summer squash, tomatoes, turnips, winter squash, parsley, rhubarb | fava beans, garlic, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, chives | |
West Coast (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | beans, beets, blackberries, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, green beans, kale, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, tomatoes, turnips, basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary | beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, corn, cucumbers, onions, peppers, radishes, squash, tomatoes | beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, peas, spinach, squash | |
South Central and Southwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3b-11a) | asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, cantaloupes, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, figs, garlic, cherry tomatoes, melons, okra, onions, peanuts, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, scallions, snap peas, spinach, tomatoes, watermelons, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley | beans, beets, cantaloupes, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, gourds, kale, lettuce, melons, mustard greens, okra, peanuts, peas, tomatoes, tomatillos, turnips, beans, sweet peppers, hot peppers, watermelon, basil, cilantro, dill | arugula, beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, garlic, kale, leek, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsnips, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, cilantro, dill, parsley | beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, lettuce,snow peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley |
Midwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-7b) | apples, arugula, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, cantaloupe, cauliflower, carrots, chard, cherries, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, lima beans, parsnips, peaches, peas, pears, persimmons, potatoes, radishes, radicchio, scallions, spinach, squash (summer and winter), strawberries, turnips, watermelon, basil, chives, cilantro, fennel, parsley, sorrel, summer savory, witch hazel | arugula, beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, okra, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, pumpkin, scallions, squash (summer and winter), turnips, watermelon, basil, cilantro, parsley, sorrel | arugula, broccoli, cabbage, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips | |
| Southeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 5b-11a) | broccoli, blackberries, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, eggplant, figs, lettuce, okra, onions, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, sweet potatoes, basil, cilantro, dill, lavender, oregano, thyme, witch hazel | beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, kale, lima beans, pole beans, tomatoes, watermelon, winter squash | chard, kale, onions, pumpkins, rosemary, turnips | |
| Northeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-8a) | beets, broccoli, cantaloupe, carrots, corn, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, melons, sweet peppers, snap peas, squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, basil, chamomile, ginger, mint, parsley, witch hazel | beets, bok choy, broccoli, cantaloupe, cabbage, carrots, chard, corn, greens, cucumbers, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, pole beans, snap beans, snap peas, snow peas, spinach, squash, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, arnica, basil, borage, chamomile, dill, fennel, marshmallow, oregano, parsley, purslane, skullcap, thyme | arugula, beets, broccoli, garlic, greens (mesclun, rapini, mache, frisee, etc.), kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips,cilantro, chamomile, echinacea, holy basil, lemon balm, oregano, purslane, skullcap, sorrel, thyme | arugula, kale, lettuce, basil, cilantro, dill(start indoors in pots) |
Aerating – Loosening soil or compost to allow air to circulate
\n\n\n\nAnnuals – Varieties that complete their life cycle in one year or less, requiring sowing every year. Annual flower varieties often bloom profusely and over a long period of time.
\n\n\n\nBiennials – Varieties, both flowers and vegetables, that complete their life cycle in two years, usually just showing only leaf growth the first year, and flowers the next
\n\n\n\nCompanion planting – Planting different plants together that benefit one another. For example, sowing a plant that attracts pollinators next to a plant that requires pollination; corn, squash, and beans are common companions.
\n\n\n\nCutting – Developing a new plant by cutting a piece of leaf, stem, root, or bud from a parent plant, then inserting it into a growing medium (water or soil) to form roots
\n\n\n\nComposting – Using decomposed plant material to replenish soil nutrients while reducing landfill waste
\n\n\n\nFertilizing – Adding organic or synthetic material to soil or plant to improve the nutrient value and help plants grow stronger
\n\n\n\nGermination – The moment when a seed begins to grow
\n\n\n\nHydroponics – Growing plants in water instead of soil
\n\n\n\nPlanting/ sowing – Putting seeds in soil and allowing them to germinate and grow
\n\n\n\nPerennials – Varieties that grow and flower for two or more years. These can be evergreen or may die back to the ground but will grow again the following season.
\n\n\n\nPollination – The fertilization of a flower by wind, insect, birds, etc., resulting in a seed, sometimes surrounded by an edible fruit
\n\n\n\nSeedling – Tiny plant developing from a germinated seed, ready for planting
\n\n\n\nThinning – Reducing the number of seedlings so remaining plants are spaced properly to grow
\n\n\n\nTransplanting – Transferring a plant to a different growing space or medium
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones – Zones designated for planting as determined by the historical, average, lowest winter temperature in specified geographic areas of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nVariety – A species that has naturally formed a unique characteristic distinguishing it from similar plants (For example, kale and kohlrabi each adapted unique characteristics that differ from cabbage, the original species from which they came.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5086792452830189,"src":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/107df/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/293e9/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/f2cbb/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/19c60/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 1999w","srcWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/67b76/social-distancing-backyard.webp 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/8df11/social-distancing-backyard.webp 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/98a65/social-distancing-backyard.webp 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/acfdf/social-distancing-backyard.webp 1999w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"8163e4ac-da46-5939-9869-d4112710a127","slug":"post-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/post-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Home is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent […]
\n","content":"\nHome is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent herbicide to help you get rid of it.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergent herbicides is when weeds are young and actively growing. This is when they are most vulnerable to the active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nTime of Year: Applying in the fall or late spring is best. It is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during these times of year. Perennial weeds with deep root systems are best treated in the early spring. Homeowners should be aware that herbicides are most effective on weeds that are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nTemperature: Apply post-emergent weed control when the air temperature is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil temperature is higher than 55 degrees. You can purchase a soil thermometer online or at your local garden supply store for less than $10 to check the soil temperature.
\n\n\n![\"woman](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Weed-killer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: karenfoleyphotography / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhen Not to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides before rain? Read the product label to determine how soon a treated area can be exposed to water. Some herbicides require water to be activated and kill the plant. On the contrary, rain or watering can render other herbicide products ineffective. Instead of activating ingredients, the water can wash them away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRefrain from mowing the lawn about three days before and after using herbicides so weeds can grow enough to absorb the chemicals. Be sure to protect yourself, your family, and your pets. Wear the proper clothing and keep children and pets away from the treated area until it is dry.
\n\n\n\nProtective Apparel to Wear While Applying Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nThis method allows you to target weeds specifically, not your grass or surrounding plants. It’s a good option when there is not a large infestation and/or when you’re using non-selective herbicides that can kill plants other than weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: Read the label and combine the post-emergent herbicide with water (and a surfactant, if needed) as instructed. A surfactant increases the effectiveness of herbicides by helping the chemicals absorb into the weeds better. If the herbicide does not have a built-in surfactant, the label will inform you that you must add it.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply Spot Treatments: With your mixture, spray each weed individually and thoroughly. Do your best not to get herbicide on the surrounding grass and plants, especially if you’re using a non-selective formula.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you have many weeds that have taken over your yard, a blanket treatment will allow you to treat the area more efficiently than spot treatments.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: You can use a liquid post-emergent or granular post-emergent herbicide. Mix the liquid product with water as per the label’s instructions. Use a sprayer to apply. For granules, apply using a granular spreader.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply a Blanket Treatment: Go back and forth over the entire lawn with the sprayer or spreader, applying the herbicide evenly. For granules, it will take about half an inch of water for the herbicide to be activated, so be sure to water your lawn after application.
\n\n\n\nFor any post-emergent treatments, reapply as per the product’s label to maintain weed control.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are used to treat weeds post-growth or after they are sprouting and growing.
\n\n\n\nIf you get to the weeds before they sprout, a pre-emergent herbicide can be used to prevent the weed seeds from germinating in the first place.
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr is a chemical that acts as both a pre and post-emergent herbicide, preventing weeds from germinating and killing them after they are actively growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike pre-emergent herbicides that target weed seeds, post-emergent herbicides attack plant parts, like stems, leaves, and the plant’s root system. Not all post-emergent weed killers work the same way. There are two types: contact-based and systemic.
\n\n\n\nContact-Based Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide kills only the plant parts it comes into contact with. It may take several applications. Contact-based herbicide applications typically only target the parts of plants above ground, like the weed’s foliage. It can kill the targeted parts of the plant quickly.
\n\n\n\nSystemic Post-Emergent Herbicides: Systemic herbicides kill weeds completely, even if the herbicide only comes into contact with part of the plant. The chemicals are absorbed and travel throughout the entire plant, attacking its vascular system. This method allows the active ingredients to reach and kill different parts of the plant, like the stems, leaves, and root system, killing the pesky weed.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to know that not all herbicides work on all weeds. There are both selective and non-selective post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSelective Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide targets specific weeds without harming other plants. Selective products list on their labels whether they kill grassy weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass, or broadleaf weeds, like chickweed and dandelions. You must accurately identify the weed in your yard to choose the right selective herbicide.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective Post-Emergent Herbicides: These herbicides kill all plants they touch, so a sprayer is usually used to apply non-selective herbicides to give weeds a targeted spot treatment that affects the weeds and not other plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMake sure you are correctly identifying the weeds in your yard. Certain weed killers are for specific weeds and may be ineffective on other types of weeds. The type of herbicide you choose should also be labeled for use on your turfgrass type. Otherwise, it may kill your grass along with the weeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common active ingredients in post-emergent herbicides, along with the weeds they kill and the grass types they’re safe for.
\n\n\n\nGlyphosate (Roundup):
\n\n\n\nImazaquin (Image):
\n\n\n\nForamsulfuron (Revolver):
\n\n\n\nSulfentrazone (Dismiss):
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed herbicides are pre-emergent and post-emergent products that also contain fertilizer. Several granular herbicides come with fertilizers. Make sure you are getting the weed and feed product that is best for your grass.
\n\n\n\nBut be aware of when it is best to apply the herbicide and when it is best to fertilize your grass. Because the two may not coincide, weed and feed products can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNo, they do not kill weeds that have already sprouted. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIndaziflam provides pre-emergence control for goosegrass. Fenoxaprop is a post-emergence for goosegrass. The name-brand product Dismiss also inhibits the growth of goosegrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a selective pre-emergence herbicide that can be used on most cool and warm-season grass types. Halosulfuron and sulfentrazone are post-emergent chemicals for use on most cool and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some DIY pet-safe weed killers. Some are non-toxic to humans and pets, like a salt solution or boiling water. A mixture of borax and water is considered a less harmful natural weed killer; borax is toxic in its concentrated form.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best way to treat lawn weeds is to prevent them before they occur with appropriate lawn care. This includes treating your lawn for diseases, providing the correct amounts of water and fertilizer at the recommended intervals, and mowing the lawn at advised heights.
\n\n\n\nThe next step is to catch weeds before you see them by treating them with a pre-emergent herbicide. But if you don’t have that kind of foresight and end up with weeds in your lawn, you can use post-emergent herbicides to kill them.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, you can treat weeds yourself using products from your local home improvement store or Amazon. But it can be a lot of work, especially if you end up having to hand-pull a yard full of weeds. If you’d rather leave your lawn care needs to professionals, we can connect you with lawn care pros in your area who can help with weed control and other lawn maintenance, such as mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Mihajlo Maricic / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/107df/weed-killer-spray.jpg 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/293e9/weed-killer-spray.jpg 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/f2cbb/weed-killer-spray.jpg 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/c26c2/weed-killer-spray.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/67b76/weed-killer-spray.webp 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/8df11/weed-killer-spray.webp 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/98a65/weed-killer-spray.webp 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/3cc96/weed-killer-spray.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Read to discover how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides, how they work, and which chemicals kill specific weeds."}}},{"node":{"id":"0b042427-3c41-556f-9dc9-902ee6349ea0","slug":"the-14-major-metro-areas-with-the-most-new-homes","path":"/blog/the-14-major-metro-areas-with-the-most-new-homes/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"April 6th, 2019","excerpt":"By John Egan They’re truly raising the roofs in the Austin, TX, metro area. A WikiLawn analysis of new data from the U.S. Census Bureau shows that among the country’s 50 biggest metros, the Austin area boasts the largest share of homes (nearly 3.3 percent) built in 2014 or later. No other major metro surpassed […]
\n","content":"\nBy John Egan
They’re truly raising the roofs in the Austin, TX, metro area.
A WikiLawn analysis of new data from the U.S. Census Bureau shows that among the country’s 50 biggest metros, the Austin area boasts the largest share of homes (nearly 3.3 percent) built in 2014 or later.
No other major metro surpassed the 3 percent mark for new housing units, such as houses, apartments and condos. Nationwide, 0.9 percent of all housing units were considered new as of 2017, the Census Bureau data indicates.
Rounding out the top five were:
2. Raleigh, NC (a little over 2.4 percent).
\n\n\n\n3. Houston, TX (a little over 2.2 percent).
\n\n\n\n4. San Antonio, TX (nearly 2.2 percent).
\n\n\n\n5. Nashville, TN, (nearly 2.1 percent).
The full list appears below.
The newly released Census Bureau data, gathered through the American Community Survey, gives estimates of a host of housing, economic and demographic milestones in the U.S. through 2017. Among them is the number of housing units constructed from 2014 to 2017 in every U.S. metro.
Of the 14 major metro areas with the most new homes, our analysis finds that four of them are in Texas — Austin, Dallas-Fort Worth, Houston and San Antonio. Two metros in Florida appear in our tally (Jacksonville and Orlando), as do two in North Carolina (Charlotte and Raleigh).
Not surprisingly, all of the metros on our new-housing list have experienced significant surges in population in recent years. After all, a bump in population ordinarily prompts a need for more places to live.
Among the 10 U.S. metros with the fastest-growing population (on a percentage basis) from 2016 to 2017, only Austin also shows up in our new-home ranking. In just one year, the Austin area’s population climbed 2.7 percent, Census Bureau data shows.
Examined another way, though, five of the 14 metros on our list also are among the country’s fastest-growing.
From 2016 to 2017 alone, Dallas-Fort Worth led all U.S. metro areas for the raw number of residents added (146,238), according to the Census Bureau. Houston was No. 2, adding 94,417 residents; Seattle, WA, was No. 6, with 64,386 new residents; Orlando was No. 8, with 56,498; and Austin was No. 9, with 55,269.
While areas like the ones in our ranking are putting up new housing units at a fairly speedy clip, that’s not enough to meet overall demand. According to new research from mortgage lender Freddie Mac, the annual rate of housing construction across the U.S. currently is about 370,000 units shy of the level required to satisfy housing needs — especially the rising demand for affordable homes and apartments — over the long term.
Aggravating the housing supply-and-demand imbalance is an escalating shortage of laborers and subcontractors for construction of single-family homes.
While Austin sits at No. 1 in our ranking for the heftiest share of new homes, the Austin Strategic Housing Blueprint estimated that at least 135,000 more housing units would need to be built just in the city — not the entire metro area — from 2015 through 2025 to accommodate even more residents. The Austin City Council adopted the blueprint in 2017.
“The biggest problem with housing is that there’s just not enough of it to go around,” Austin Mayor Steve Adler said in 2017. “I’m here to tell you that the law of supply and demand, and its relationship to prices, applies even in Austin. We simply don’t have enough housing supply now to keep up with demand. And by not creating enough housing in Austin, we’re pushing people out of town to cheaper housing in surrounding communities, adding to their commute, our congestion and everyone’s expenses.”
Making matters worse: The population boom in Austin and the surrounding suburbs isn’t cooling off anytime soon. If current projections are accurate, the Austin metro area will have welcomed more than 190,000 residents from 2017 to 2020.
“Due to rapid population growth throughout Central Texas, Austin continues to have one of the highest demands for housing in the nation,” Brandy Guthrie, 2017 president of the Austin Board of Realtors, said in December 2017.
Led by Austin, here’s our list of the 14 Metro Areas With the Most New Homes (as a percentage of all housing units).
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Austin-TX.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 786,584
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 25,850
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 3.29%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Raleigh-NC.jpg\")
Total housing units: 511,414
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 12,435
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 2.43%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Houston-TX.jpg\")
Total housing units: 2,499,292
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 55,934
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 2.24%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Antonio-TX.jpg\")
Total housing units: 874,247
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 19,141
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 2.19%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Nashville-TN-1.jpg\")
Total housing units: 747,845
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 15,515
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 2.07%
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Dallas-TX.jpg?fit=1024%2C563&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 2,696,167
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 51,922
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.93%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Orlando-FL.jpg\")
Total housing units: 995,591
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 17,989
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.81%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Oklahoma-City-OK.jpg\")
Total housing units: 563,445
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 9,878
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.75%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Jacksonville-FL.jpg?fit=1024%2C681&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 625,888
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 10,709
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.71%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Denver-CO.jpg\")
Total housing units: 1,136,616
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 18,588
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.64%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Charlotte-North-Carolina.jpg\")
Total housing units: 993,111
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 16,061
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.62%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Salt-Lake-City-UT.jpg\")
Total housing units: 405,112
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 6,057
\n\n\n\n% of housing built in 2014 or later: 1.50%
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Seattle-WA.jpg?fit=1024%2C498&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 1,544,134
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 22,148
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.43%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Portland-OR.jpg?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1\")
Total housing units: 966,346
\n\n\n\nHousing units built in 2014 or later: 12,245
\n\n\n\n% of housing units built in 2014 or later: 1.27%
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UIXo1Q5ZhG0jrhIFhL49gb6Z3368xm8Gu1tJkKcXLVmb1n8QpxXrp8VmRIouYr7NGzxW1_CNihvodQdx3zNJD-iaRQHAA9tMqmyBH6zCz6KseebIEe3tFvLYWOlnRZvVnjCm87m5DfHi-cnR7i9fGFeTMIqbN0pmmo53Qg_LLeHbtGQsgFb9V7DvPQe-MA\")
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