![\"Dollar](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_15303286489_3f105d8145_c.jpg\")
Is your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them. Contents: What is Grass Fungus? 10 Types of FungusDollar SpotGray Leaf SpotGray Snow MoldPink Snow MoldLeaf SpotNecrotic Ring SpotPowdery MildewRed ThreadBrown PatchSummer Patch […]
\n","content":"\nIs your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nA grass fungus is a microorganism that grows and thrives in the soil. It manifests itself as a fruiting body such as mushrooms or in the form of a disease such as summer patch.
Sometimes the fungus can lie dormant in cooler seasons and start to show itself in hot months, or vice versa. Grass fungus can attack the roots or leaves of your lawn, zapping it of nutrients and often changing its appearance.
\n\n\n\nSeveral of these fungi can result in a number of lawn diseases. Here are the ten most common types of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nThis fungus spreads throughout the yard through infected tools or grass clippings. It may even spread by shoes tracking through the grass. Dollar spot starts in early summer and reaches its peak in late summer. It thrives in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Bentgrass and Zoysia are grasses that are susceptible to this type of fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gray](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-07-29_at_113159_am-1024x504.jpg\")
Gray leaf spot creates an enormous amount of spores that invade grass through cut leaf tips. This fungus targets St. Augustinegrass but can also affect Bermudagrass, ryegrass, centipedegrass, and tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms
\n\n\n\nTreatment
\n\n\n\nGray snow mold is a fungus that grows in winter under snow in temperatures between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, spreading its threads into plant tissues. This disease tends to attack bluegrasses, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescues.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nSimilar to gray snow mold, this fungus attacks the grass leaves, forming a disease that looks like red or coral webs. Unlike gray snow mold, pink snow mold doesn’t require snow to thrive. Annual bluegrasses and bentgrasses are most susceptible to this type of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaf](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_manchas_foliares_-_hongos_sobre_hoja_de_rumex_sp-_leaf_spot_7494223286.jpg\")
Leaf spot develops in early spring and spreads in spring or late fall, attacking the grass crown and roots. This fungus attacks Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_img_2816-1024x768.jpg\")
Necrotic ring spot attacks the roots of grass, creating donut-shaped dead spots. It attacks fine fescue, annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and rough bluegrass.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nThis fungus forms in moist, cool climates when the ground has poor air circulation. It forms on the grass blades, particularly Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_31616759565_dc7c3259f9_c.jpg\")
You can identify red thread by the clusters of red or pink threads throughout your fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, bentgrasses, or bluegrasses. The fungus enters the grass through its blades, spreading to other areas, and is common in rainy seasons of spring and early summer.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch attacks the roots and spreads to the leaves and stems of grass. This fungus attacks fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and bluegrasses.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Summer](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14747617254_dd85aea258_c.jpg\")
Summer patch is a fungus that usually attacks Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, and annual bluegrasses. The fungus attacks the roots of the grass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent a grass fungus from invading your lawn with a few lawn maintenance tips.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a lawn fungus go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. The fungus will spread and get worse over time.
\n\n\n\n2. Are certain grass types more susceptible to lawn fungus than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. For example, Bermudagrass, bluegrasses, and Zoysiagrasses are vulnerable to various types of fungus. Planting a much more resistant species like creeping red fescue will help keep fungus at bay.
\n\n\n\n3. Will mowing the infected lawn spread the disease?
\n\n\n\nYes. The blades of your mower could spread the fungus throughout your yard. To minimize the spread of the pathogens to other parts of your yard via your lawn mower, clean and disinfect the mower blades before each mow.
\n\n\n\nNot sure how to treat the grass fungus invading your lawn? We’ll help you find a lawn care professional in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Flickr/ Kris Lourd/CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/107df/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/293e9/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/f2cbb/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/a2a79/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/67b76/Red-Thread-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/8df11/Red-Thread-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/98a65/Red-Thread-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/7aa54/Red-Thread-disease.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Is your lawn facing brown patch, snow mold, or fairy ring? We'll show you how to identify the types of grass fungus that has your lawn looking sickly."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"d7716a03-3aff-5a3d-b202-48c5102701b3","slug":"how-to-overseed-a-lawn","path":"/blog/how-to-overseed-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 28th, 2022","excerpt":"Rather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started. […]
\n","content":"\nRather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is simply spreading fresh grass seed directly into the existing lawn without tearing up the turf or the soil. It’s an excellent way to make your lawn thicker and greener. By mixing types of grass seed, you can even prolong the life of your lawn and enjoy it year-round.
\n\n\n\nLet’s face it: We all end up making twice as many trips to the home store as anticipated, looking for that one last item we forgot. Start here, gather your materials, and finish your shopping in one day.
\n\n\n\nThe first step is deciding when to spread the seeds. This is typically done in late summer or early fall, depending on if you have cool-season or warm-season grass in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLike any plant, grass seeds need to find their way to the soil to germinate. But thatch can get in the way. Thatch is the organic matter like grass and leaves that accumulates atop the soil. If you can’t see soil between your existing grass, remove the thatch with a dethatcher.
\n\n\n\nAfter dethatching, you’ll need to aerate. Spike aeration pokes holes in the solid while core aeration pokes holes and removes plugs of soil, giving your grass seed the space it needs to germinate.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: It’s unlikely you have a dethatcher or aerator hanging out in your shed. The local home supply store should have a selection to choose from. Look for rental opportunities while you pick up the fertilizer and grass seed.
\n\n\n\nIn order to help the seeds reach the soil, cut the grass to about one inch. This is likely shorter than you normally mow, so you’ll need to drop the blade.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to bag the trimmings and remove them. Again, this is all about increasing the likelihood of the new seeds making soil contact and germinating successfully. If you don’t have a way to bag the clippings, the next step will help.
\n\n\n\nRake up all of the leaves, twigs, clippings, and other debris on your lawn. It’s best if you add a little muscle to the raking process, allowing the rake tines to loosen up the soil as well.
\n\n\n\nUse a fertilizer spreader to add a layer of enriched topsoil on top of your grass. This top layer of soil is filled with organic matter and microorganisms necessary for life to develop. Topsoil makes sure the seeds have access to water, nutrients, and space to germinate.
\n\n\n\nThis layer should be about ¼-inch thick. Some grass seed mixtures include topsoil, so you won’t need to add additional topsoil and can jump to the next step.
\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time for seeding! Like most aspects of lawn care, it’s essential to know just what type of grass you’re working with. Either use the same seed as your existing lawn or a variety that compliments it. For example, overseed a Zoysiagrass lawn with Zoysia seed, or a cool-season ryegrass to add color in the winter.
\n\n\n\nRead the bag’s instructions for how much seed to apply per square foot, and fill your drop spreader or broadcast spreader accordingly. Walk the spreader across your lawn in the same direction you mow, depositing the seed in rows.
\n\n\n\nTo jumpstart growth and ensure the new seeds have what they need, use a fertilizer spreader to add a starter fertilizer appropriate for your lawn. Starter mixes are specially designed for new growth and should be applied wherever you spread the seeds.
\n\n\n\nIf your grass seed mixture already contains fertilizer, you can skip this step.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Stay away from “weed and feed” mixtures as these herbicides can damage to new growth.
\n\n\n\nNew plants always require water, and your new grass seed is no different. As soon as you finish spreading seed and fertilizer, give your lawn a good, healthy drink.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then water your lawn lightly two to three times each day, ensuring the soil stays moist. This should continue until the new grass is as tall to established grass. Always water in the morning or after sundown so as to prevent evaporation.
\n\n\n\nYou should also look for signs of overwatering, such as puddles or squishy soil. If you notice this, stop watering right away and wait until conditions return to normal.
\n\n\n\nAlong with consistent watering, you should also stay off your grass until it has had a chance to develop. Limit foot and paw traffic until the grass has at least 1- to 2-inches of growth, and don’t pull out the mower until the new grass is similar in height to the established grass. Giving your new lawn a chance to take hold is the final step in overseeding.
\n\n\n\nWhen you overseed your lawn, you give it the ability to resist disease, drought conditions, and heavy foot traffic. A thicker lawn is also more resistant to lawn damaging insects. It also requires less fertilizer and maintenance.
\n\n\n\n1. Why mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nA shorter lawn gives the seeds a better chance of reaching the soil. It’s also important to loosen the top layer of soil and remove any dead grass or thatch, so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I prevent the birds from eating the grass seed?
\n\n\n\nAdd a layer of topsoil over the seeded areas. This prevents the birds and other wildlife from getting to the seed. If you notice birds or rabbits near the area, get a roll of burlap and place strips of it over the seeded area. Anchor the strips with tent stakes.
\n\n\n\n3. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should start to see the grass spout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. How often should I overseed my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAnnually. Most lawn care professionals recommend overseeding each year to keep your lawn coming back thicker and greener every spring. If you only see bald spots and thinning every once in a while, you can probably overseed once every two or three years.
\n\n\n\n5. Do I need to apply fertilizer when overseeding my lawn?
\n\n\n\nOnly if you didn’t fertilize in spring. Adding more fertilizer isn’t necessary, and may actually hinder your new grass seed from growing. Fertilizing just before or after reseeding will force the germinating seeds to compete with the existing grass and weeds. It’s best to wait until the following spring to fertilize.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project, but if you’d rather not spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating, we can help you find a lawn care professional near you.
Main Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
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\n","content":"\nWe take pride in our lawns in Columbus. The grass that covers your landscape is like a cover to a book. People will assume the inside of your home is just as pristine as your yard. That’s why this quickstart guide to lawn care in Columbus is crucial.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nSince we get more than the average amount of precipitation (more than 56 inches a year), lawn care in Columbus is relatively easy. We still need to water occasionally and mow often. How often you should mow, and water depends on the type of grass covering your landscape.
\n\n\n\n![\"tall](\"http://lawnstarter.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/tall-fescue.jpg\")
Tall fescue grass is perfect if you don’t want to spend a lot of time watering and maintaining your lawn. This variety is drought-resistant and will survive a hot, dry summer. It also holds up well during our cold winters.
\n\n\n\nIt does grow quickly and will need mowing at least once a week. It looks best when mowed between 3 and 3½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZJelm3O3DzG-doQdR0rekiXL7qGVKJkSrPMH5HtEnRlFQG1syvtDf97LmhStDSawKjpyNspADimLJDukiJt27dgNso9M6DtmZ149IM6dducfpnoF_YFeAlbSUpRE0mOR-BKOpiaO\")
This is the most common grass you’ll see on Columbus lawns. Kentucky bluegrass is an eye-catching shade of deep green, but in the spring, the bluish-purple buds tint the landscape blue.
\n\n\n\nAs a cold-season grass, Kentucky bluegrass holds up well to winters here. It’s long-lasting and resilient to heavy foot traffic, It’s also more resistant than other grasses to disease. If you’re planting a new lawn, keep in mind bluegrass takes one to three months to establish itself, so it’s best to plant it in the spring or fall. We recommend mowing this grass to a height of 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vzmTOQphoueWk2oivJZRNZ0nObnaicYDQED1O7Pkx_t6faunOvLpkDV07otpxZ4I801ugNHs1nBw_yCFJeamA6ZerGu-TMWtXd8WxmfCCxEd-Q5jq8q-VQSXgoyhNnuMpHH2mtUy\")
Got kids and pets? Perennial ryegrass is perfect for your yard. As one of the toughest sods, it can stand up to heavy foot traffic and hot and cold weather. Like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues, it continues to grow in poorly drained soil. It’s best to keep this grass shorter, 1½ to 2½ inches.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_pixnio-4149-2560x1920-1.jpg\")
Buffalo grass is a North American native turf you can plant and almost forget about. It’s extremely versatile and doesn’t require a lot of attention. It’s also durable and can bounce back after a heavy snowfall and a lot of foot traffic. You should mow Buffalo grass at a height of 2½ to 3½ inches.
\n\n\n\nNever cut more than one-third of the height of your grass. If you cut too much off at once, your grass becomes vulnerable to pests and diseases. Got an overgrown lawn? Sorry: Do multiple mows, taking off one-third each time. Most turfs need a weekly mow until late fall when the growth slows down or stops. Vary the pattern and direction each time you mow. It reduces compaction of the soil and stops your grass blades from leaning in one direction, making the cut uneven. Leave the clippings in the yard as you mow. They will decompose and fertilize your lawn. If you hire a lawn service professional, make sure to remind this person.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining your lawn mower is an essential part of lawn care in Columbus. A poorly maintained mower can damage your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_11pixnio-46676-6144x4096-1.jpg\")
Dull mower blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it. Shredded grass blades are ugly — and less disease-resistant. With sharp mower blades, you cut efficiently and put less strain on your mower’s engine. Many hardware stores can sharpen them for you, or you can do it yourself in less than an hour. Just make sure you disconnect the spark plug or cord first.
\n\n\n\nYou can adjust the cutting height by raising or lowering the mower’s wheel. Look on the side of your lawnmower and find a knob or lever that adjusts the height for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nClean the blades often, so you don’t spread fungus and other lawn diseases throughout your yard. The same goes for pruning shears and other gardening tools.
\n\n\n\nOnce you put the mower away, you’ll need to make sure your lawn stays thick and green once it comes out of dormancy in the spring. You can do this by preparing it in the fall.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn will start to look tired and worn out after a summer of use. By raking up all debris and thatch and spreading fresh seed, you can replenish some of those bare patches over the fall and winter. A thinning lawn is an invitation for weeds and pests. You can spread seed over the smaller areas by hand, or rent a seed spreader for the entire lawn.
\n\n\n\nYour soil can become compacted after a summer full of heavy traffic. Poking tiny holes in the lawn, or aerating, gives the grass a chance to take in more moisture and nutrients. It also raises the lawn’s resistance to diseases and pests. Do this in the fall, just before you add fertilizer. Fertilizing the lawn at the end of September will help it make it through the cold winter. Before deciding which fertilizer to use, find out what your lawn needs. You can get a home soil test kit at your local home improvement store. The extension office at The Ohio State University can recommend labs in your area to test the soil for you.
\n\n\n\nYour lawn may need a little more moisture before it goes dormant over the winter. Keep your sprinkler ready until the first frost. A few good soakings will give the roots of the grass the strength it needs to make it through the winter. You also want to make sure the new seeds and fertilizer work their way into the soil. Check with the city or Wikilawn’s post for lawn watering restrictions in your area.
\n\n\n\nWhile you won’t be mowing in the winter, you can’t completely forget about your lawn after it goes dormant in fall. It’s crucial that you rake up the leaves, or mulch them finely with your mower. Wet leaves that pile up will suffocate your lawn and invite disease. Be sure to remove any lawn furniture from the grass and avoid walking on the lawn when it’s covered with snow or frost. This could damage the lawn when it’s dormant.
\n\n\n\n1. How do I clean my lawn mower blades?
\n\n\n\nLay the lawn mower on its side and spray down the mower casing and blade with a high-pressure hose to remove all the grass and debris. It’s crucial that you empty the gas tank and disconnect the spark plugs first.
\n\n\n\n2. Will lawn decorations harm my grass?
\n\n\n\nYes, especially if those ornamental decorations are heavy. Avoid heavy holiday decorations to save your grass from mold and tearing. As far as those garden gnomes? Look for smaller ones and place them at the edge of your yard. You may also want to move them around every so often to allow the sun and water to reach those covered spots.
\n\n\n\n3. Will long periods of snow in the winter damage my lawn?
\n\n\n\nIt can. When the snow and ice melt, your lawn becomes vulnerable to snow mold, a fungus that can affect cool-season grass types. You can prevent snow mold by avoiding walking on your snow-covered lawn and by fertilizing in the fall, before the first frost.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or energy to keep your lawn looking pristine? We’ll help you find a lawn care and landscaping professional who can handle the work for you while you sit back and enjoy your yard.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Rawpixel
\n","title":"Your QuickStart Guide to Lawn Care in Columbus, Ohio","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5247776365946633,"src":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1789c/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/107df/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/293e9/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/f2cbb/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1789c/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/c26c2/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1dd6e/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/67b76/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/8df11/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/98a65/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/1dd6e/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/7cd9ef2ce2f7b7cc97bf1a5993e08a4f/3cc96/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-08-08_at_10209_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Your QuickStart Guide to Lawn Care in Columbus, Ohio | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a lawn that will turn your neighbors green with envy? Our Columbus, Ohio lawn care & mowing guide will help you keep your lawn green and lush."}}},{"node":{"id":"74ae7088-9bee-52c6-907f-746af204f313","slug":"benefits-aerating-lawn","path":"/blog/benefits-aerating-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Aeration is an essential but frequently overlooked part of lawn care. It means creating holes in the soil to loosen it up and make it easier for water and nutrients to reach your grass’s roots. We’ll go over the benefits of aerating your lawn to help you understand why this little-known lawn care practice is […]
\n","content":"\nAeration is an essential but frequently overlooked part of lawn care. It means creating holes in the soil to loosen it up and make it easier for water and nutrients to reach your grass’s roots. We’ll go over the benefits of aerating your lawn to help you understand why this little-known lawn care practice is so important and worth doing regularly.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/367d6df1-ce98-4788-9796-f09e94b226cd.jpg\")
Photo Credit: driftlessstudio / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nLawn aeration provides various advantages that improve your lawn’s general health and appearance. Here are the biggest benefits of aerating your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPlants, like humans, require oxygen to thrive. When your soil becomes compacted, the lawn’s roots struggle to get enough oxygen, resulting in weak and shallow root systems. Aerating your lawn allows oxygen to enter the root zone, encouraging the roots to grow deeper and stronger. Improved oxygen circulation promotes healthier grass growth, enhances drought tolerance, and lowers the risk of lawn disease.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAeration stimulates not just oxygen circulation but also nutritional absorption by your grass’s roots. Compacted soil prevents nutrients – like the ones in lawn fertilizer – from reaching the root zone, resulting in undernourished grass. Aerating allows nutrients to infiltrate the soil, ensuring your grass obtains the nutrients it requires to thrive. Enhanced nutrient absorption leads to greener, denser, and more resilient turf.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIn addition to oxygen and nutrients, water is essential for sustaining healthy grass. Compacted soil frequently results in water runoff and uneven moisture distribution. Aeration allows water to penetrate deeper into the soil, reaching thirsty roots.
\n\n\n\nFurthermore, the holes generated by aeration serve as reservoirs, allowing the soil to retain moisture for extended periods. This water-conscious method ensures appropriate hydration while reducing water waste.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil compaction is a typical problem, especially in high-traffic lawns. Compacted soil is dense and lacks air, water, and space for root development. Aerating breaks up the compacted soil, relaxing it and allowing the roots to expand. It will enable healthier grass growth, better drainage, and a better environment for beneficial soil insects like earthworms.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThatch is a layer of dead grass, roots, and other organic matter that builds up between grass blades and the soil surface. While a modest covering of thatch can be good for your lawn, too much of it will cause difficulties, such as blocking water and fertilizer from reaching the soil.
\n\n\n\nCompacted soil promotes excessive thatch buildup by preventing decomposition. Aeration aids in the resolution of this problem by breaking up the thatch layer, promoting its decomposition, and preventing excessive build-up, which results in improved nutrient absorption in the soil
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA properly aerated lawn creates an environment where grass roots may grow deeper, resulting in a greener, lusher lawn. Stronger root systems provide the grass blades with better support, making them more resistant to wear and tear. Aerating your grass encourages general development, resulting in denser turf that tolerates stressors like heat, drought, and foot traffic.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAeration is a proactive approach to lawn care rather than a reactive technique. You may avoid many problems like disease susceptibility, weed invasion, and uneven, lifeless grass by aerating your grass regularly. Aeration is a preventative strategy that keeps your lawn healthy and reduces the need for costly repairs or treatments later.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nTo better understand the benefits of aeration, you should have a grasp on how the process works and why it’s necessary. Lawn aeration is the process of making small holes in the soil to improve air circulation, water penetration, and nutrient absorption.
\n\n\n\nSoil becomes compacted over time as a result of:
\n\n\n\nThis compaction hinders the passage of air, water, and nutrients deep into the soil, harming your grass’s health and growth. Aeration is the remedy that breathes new life into your lawn. Aeration can be done using:
\n\n\n\nSome homeowners may prefer liquid aeration products, which work on a smaller scale to break up compacted soil. Depending on the size and condition of your lawn, you can rent equipment or hire expert lawn care service providers.
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about how aeration works (and how you can do it yourself), see our article on When and How to Aerate Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\nAnd if you decide to aerate on your own instead of hiring a pro, you’ll want to check out What to Do After Aerating Your Lawn to get the best results from your hard work.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow frequently should I aerate my lawn?
\n\n\n\nThe frequency of lawn aeration is determined by factors such as soil type, lawn usage, and soil compaction. Generally, you should aerate your lawn once a year if it has clay soil. But if you have soil that does not appear to compact easily, then it is advised to aerate once every three years.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat are some of the lawn care tips for aeration?
\n\n\n\nConsider the following tips to get the most out of your aeration efforts:
\n\n\n\nHow to take care of your lawn after aeration?
\n\n\n\nMaintain a regular watering, mowing, and fertilizing schedule to encourage healthy grass growth. Avoid excessive foot traffic immediately following aeration to allow the grass to recover. You’ll reap the benefits of aeration for months if you properly care for your grass afterward.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen should you aerate your lawn?
\n\n\n\nFall is the most active growing season for cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, so it is the optimal time of year to aerate them. On the other hand, warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass, are best aerated in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLawn aeration is a game changer when it comes to having lush, gorgeous grass. You may transform your lawn into an oasis of green by recognizing the benefits aeration brings. Regular aeration, whether you do it yourself or hire a professional, will keep your lawn healthy, resilient, and the envy of the neighborhood.
\n\n\n\nGet a free quote from local lawn aeration pros to embrace the power of aeration and unlock the full potential of your lawn today!
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: macniak / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/1789c/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/107df/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg 320w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/293e9/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg 500w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/f2cbb/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg 800w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/1789c/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg 960w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/c26c2/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/1dd6e/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/67b76/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp 320w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/8df11/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp 500w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/98a65/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp 800w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/1dd6e/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp 960w,\n/static/c3865c1d2b9a429b03f7b480924e05c9/3cc96/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Read our guide to get familiar with aeration and the benefits of aerating your lawn to make it breathable, healthy, and beautiful."}}},{"node":{"id":"240ef13d-10c0-55ef-a3ea-abcbbb9a9bc7","slug":"lawn-fertilizer-schedule","path":"/blog/lawn-fertilizer-schedule/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Fertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the […]
\n","content":"\nFertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the benefits of fertilization and enhance your grass’s growth.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide, we’ll walk you through developing the best fertilization schedule for your grass type’s specific needs. Let’s get started!
\n\n\n\nLearn about:
\n\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDifferent grass species have different development patterns, so you must customize your fertilization schedule accordingly. Always apply fertilizer during your grass’s active growth period and never when it’s dormant. Dormant grass cannot absorb nutrients, so any fertilizer you apply during dormancy goes straight to the weeds lurking in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses and warm-season grasses grow at different times of the year, so they require different fertilization schedules, which you will find below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, do best in regions with cold winters and mild summers. They typically grow in the northern third of the US and somewhat in the central portion of the country, known as the transition zone.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses benefit from a fertilization schedule that includes the following applications:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring, around late March and early April, is an ideal time to apply the first round of fertilizer as cool-season grasses emerge from winter dormancy. Choose a fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen for speedy green-up and healthy root development. Aim for a balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio to assist overall growth and stress tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSummer: Cool-season grasses can experience obstacles such as heat stress and restricted water supply during the hot summer months. To combat drought stress, adjust your watering plan and avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat. Consider using a light application of a slow-release or organic-based fertilizer with low nitrogen content in late summer, as the growth period might kick start. If your grass goes dormant and turns brown in summer, do not apply fertilizer until it greens up again.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As temperatures decrease in the early fall, cool-season grasses enter the period of their most vigorous growth. It is an ideal time for a proper round of fertilization. Use a higher potassium content fertilizer to boost root growth and improve winter hardiness and disease resistance. A balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio is still necessary to promote healthy growth during the growing season and prepare the grass for winter.
\n\n\n\nLate Fall: Apply a winterizing fertilizer developed specifically for cool-season grasses in late fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost in your area, around late October or early November. These fertilizers contain a higher potassium content, which helps to strengthen the grass’s cell walls and increase its resistance to harsh winter conditions. Winterizing fertilizers also aid in the early spring green-up of grass when it emerges from dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass prefer warmer temperatures and grow most actively in spring and summer. They begin to slow their growth in fall when the temperatures drop, and they enter winter dormancy earlier than cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer hot summers, warm-season grasses grow mostly in the South. They can also grow in the transition zone, but they typically struggle in any place with severe winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best times to apply lawn fertilizer for warm-season grasses are the following:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring is an excellent time for the first round of fertilization since warm-season grasses emerge from dormancy and begin their active growth phase. To stimulate vigorous growth, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Look for a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer that consistently supplies nutrients over time, assuring the grass’s continuous nourishment.
\n\n\n\nLate Spring/Early Summer: Warm-season grasses grow steadily throughout the summer and may require ample fertilizing to remain lush. However, it is important to be cautious when fertilizing during this time. High temperatures and drought can stress the grass, leaving it more vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To reduce the chance of damage throughout the hot summer, use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer around the end of May or the beginning of June when the heat isn’t too extreme yet.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As summer gives way to fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth. A round of fertilizer application is best done in the early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Use a fertilizer with a slightly greater potassium content to increase root growth and improve the grass’s winter hardiness. This application will aid in the recovery of the grass from any summer pressures and prepare it for the cooler months ahead.
\n\n\n\nDo not fertilize warm-season grass in late fall, as it is either preparing to enter winter dormancy or has already gone dormant.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the best lawn fertilizer practices for cool-season and warm-season grass types in our guide: When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe amount of fertilizer your grass needs can affect how many times you fertilize throughout the year. Each grass type has its own nutrient requirements, so it’s important to identify your grass type before trying to make a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nFind the proper amount of nitrogen fertilizer recommended for your grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Application Rate Per Year |
| Bermudagrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Zoysiagrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Centipedegrass | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Fine fescue | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Ryegrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
You should never apply more than 1 pound of nitrogen to your lawn at one time. So, if your grass type requires 2 pounds of nitrogen every year, you should spread the fertilizer across at least two applications and possibly more applications of less than 1 pound. If your grass type requires 4 pounds of nitrogen annually, you will need to spread it out across four applications of 1 pound each. Don’t fertilize your lawn more than four times a year.
\n\n\n\nBase the timing of these applications on the cool-season and warm-season lawn fertilization schedules above.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-19.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Galeanu Mihai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil testing is a valuable tool for optimizing your fertilizer schedule. When it comes to lawn fertilization, more than a one-size-fits-all strategy is needed. Soil testing enables you to identify nutrient deficits or excesses in your soil. It identifies the nutrients your lawn requires for its best growth, allowing you to fine-tune fertilizer selection and application.
\n\n\n\nTo perform a soil test, buy a DIY soil testing kit or send a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office for a more in-depth test.
\n\n\n\nThe soil test results provide essential information regarding your soil’s nutrient level. You’ll get a detailed report outlining the levels of primary nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, as well as secondary and micronutrients. The report also contains the pH level of your soil (ideally between 6.0 and 6.5), which is critical for nutrient availability at the grassroots.
\n\n\n\nBased on your soil test results, you can choose the right fertilizer for your grass, which will make your fertilization schedule even more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Close-up-of-Female-Gardeners-Hand-with-Iron-Bucket-of-Granular-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Valerii Honcharuk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelecting the right fertilizer for your lawn can significantly impact its overall health and look. There are a few crucial aspects to consider while choosing the right fertilizer, including:
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about these factors and how they affect your lawn, see our guide to choosing lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe type of fertilizer you select can impact your fertilization schedule. For instance, immediate-release fertilizers only remain in the soil for 4-6 weeks, so they will need to be applied more often for sustained results, while granular fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks and will require fewer applications throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is generally recommended that you water your lawn lightly after fertilizing. Watering aids in dissolving fertilizer granules, allowing nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the grassroots. However, be careful not to overwater, which might wash out nutrients or lead to runoff. Plan to fertilize when the weather forecast is clear of heavy rainfall for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilizing during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, is generally discouraged. Fertilizing during this time may result in nutrient runoff and waste. It can also encourage weeds to take over your yard while your grass is not growing. Not to mention, it’s a waste of your time, energy, and money.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers have longer-lasting effects on your soil by far. For one, they take longer to break down into the soil, which means nutrients are released gradually over time instead of all at once. The organic content in these fertilizers also improves the soil’s texture and overall health, whereas synthetic fertilizers can actually damage the soil and kill important microorganisms.
\n\n\n\nThe tradeoff is that organic fertilizers take longer to show visible results in your grass, while synthetic fertilizers can offer a quick green-up and boost of growth. So, you have to decide if you’re more concerned about the long-term or the short-term benefits.
\n\n\n\nSee our guide to organic lawn fertilizers to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCaring for your lawn means providing the appropriate nutrients at the right time. A well-planned fertilization schedule ensures your grass receives the nutrients it requires all year, supporting healthy growth and vivid greenery.
\n\n\n\nAre you tired of doing all this on your own? Don’t worry; we are here to help. Connect with a local lawn care pro through WikiLawn to help you establish a healthy, bright lawn that will make your neighbors envious.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5463917525773196,"src":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/107df/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/293e9/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/f2cbb/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/c26c2/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/67b76/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/8df11/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/98a65/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/3cc96/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is the right time to fertilize your lawn? Learn all you need to know from our lawn fertilizer schedule, including when and how much to fertilize."}}},{"node":{"id":"7065d0b5-54da-5755-a082-fced4e590d44","slug":"types-of-clover-lawns","path":"/blog/types-of-clover-lawns/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"September 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Although clover is often thought of as a weed, it belongs to the legume or pea family. Three types of clover species are common across the U.S: white clover, red clover, and strawberry clover. You’ll learn about these common clover types (and several others) below. In this article: What is a Clover Lawn? A clover lawn […]
\n","content":"\nAlthough clover is often thought of as a weed, it belongs to the legume or pea family. Three types of clover species are common across the U.S: white clover, red clover, and strawberry clover.
You’ll learn about these common clover types (and several others) below.
In this article:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA clover lawn is either completely made of clover or combines clover and turfgrass. Clover is a legume from the pea family developed in Europe. Clover arrived in North America in the late 1600s and was a favorite lawn choice until the 1950s when turfgrass gained popularity.
\n\n\n\nPlanting clover in your yard has advantages. Clover requires far less maintenance, conserves water, stays green in the summer, and is an environmentally-friendly grass alternative.
\n\n\n\nThe common word “clover” refers to a collection of over 300 plants in the Trifolium genus. However, there are three types of clover species commonly used on lawns in the United States.
\n\n\n\n![\"white](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_trifolium-repens-g5288fbabc_1280.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhite clover is the most common variety, sometimes collectively referred to as “Dutch clover” or “Dutch white.” This cool-season perennial is usually seen growing in lawns, vineyards, and by the sides of roadways.
\n\n\n\nThis clover is frequently utilized as a natural treatment to help reduce fever, ease coughs and colds, and strengthen the immune system.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover thrives in the cold, rainy conditions of zones 6a-9b. It grows best in well-drained, rich soil with a pH of 6 to 7, and prefers full sun but will tolerate partial shade.
\n\n\n\nBased mostly on leaf size, white clover has three common variants:
\n\n\n\nWhite clover has round pink to white blossoms. It blends well with cool-season turfgrasses such as fescues, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_clover-gd937f9480_1280.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nA perennial herb, red clover grows wild in meadows throughout Europe and Asia but has become established in North America. Cow clover, meadow clover, and wild clover are some of its other names.
\n\n\n\nRed clover was used in the past to treat a variety of illnesses, including gout, whooping cough, cancer, and asthma. Red clover supplements have been advocated for osteoporosis and menopause symptoms as the isoflavones found in red clover are similar to estrogen.
\n\n\n\nThis clover is resilient in acidic soils but prefers well-drained dirt with a pH between 6.0 and 7.2. It does well in 4a-8b hardiness zones. Red clover is vulnerable to fungi that cause diseases such as stem rot and powdery mildew.
\n\n\n\nThere are two common types of red clover:
\n\n\n\nRed clover blossoms range from magenta to rose. A cool-season ground cover, it has good performance with perennial ryegrass, white clover, sweet clover, or tall fescue. Red clover mixes well in warm-season lawns when planted with Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Strawberry](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_trifoliumfragiferum2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Christian Fischer / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nStrawberry clover is a perennial herb native to the eastern Mediterranean and southern Asia. While it may not grow in regions with excessive heat or cold, it thrives well in almost all types of soil.
\n\n\n\nStrawberry clover is a good bee plant, but it is rarely used as animal feed because of its short stature. It works well in lawns and permanent pastures. Strawberry clover grows well in hardiness zones 4a-9b and a soil pH between 5.3 and 8.2
\n\n\n\nThe white or pink blooms on strawberry clover are smaller than on white clover. It draws birds of all sizes, does well in cool regions, and can withstand flooding very well. Compared to other types of clover, strawberry clover can withstand more salinity and is a good choice for coastal areas.
\n\n\n\nStrawberry clover is also a cool-season variation. It partners well with tall fescue, ryegrass, timothy, reed canarygrass, dallisgrass, bermudagrass, and white clover.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Four-leaf_Clover_Trifolium_repens_2.jpg\")
Photo Credit: KEBman / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOK, maybe you can’t plant good luck but finding a four-leaf clover might bring it. This belief is probably because there is only one of them for every 10,000 clovers with three leaves.
\n\n\n\nSome Celtic cultures in the Middle Ages held the belief that holding a four-leaf clover would enable the bearer to see fairies, fend off evil spirits, and bring good luck.
\n\n\n\n“If a man walking in the fields finds some four-leaved grass, he shall in a brief while after find some good thing,” or so said John Melton in the 1600s.
\n\n\n\nEven if you never come across one with four leaves, clover will help your grass stay greener for longer while requiring less upkeep, and that’s lucky.
\n\n\n\nFarmers who use the plant as a pasture and foraging plant prefer other varieties of clover, especially annuals. Other varieties of clover that aren’t suitable for lawns:
\n\n\n\nBeautiful to look at, there are benefits to planting a clover lawn.
\n\n\n\nA grass-clover lawn can give you the benefits of clover while still being resistant to heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nClover is a good option for lawns across the country, but these are disadvantages of clover worth considering.
\n\n\n\n1. When should you plant a clover lawn?
\n\n\n\nSpring and early summer are the best times to plant clover. Clover seeds sprout fastest when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees and there is no danger of frost. You can plant clover in late summer or early fall but do so at least six weeks before a hard freeze.
\n\n\n\n2. Do you need to aerate a clover lawn?
\n\n\n\nNo. Because clover is a living mulch, it supplies the soil with nutrients while also helping it resist compaction. Macropores are left behind in the soil by decomposing clover roots. This keeps the ground loose, draws earthworms, and reduces thatch buildup.
\n\n\n\n3. Is a clover lawn better than a turfgrass lawn?
\n\n\n\nThat depends. Clover has many advantages, and turfgrass lawns have disadvantages despite their visual appeal. Grass-only lawns deny pollinators of food and habitat and need more water, chemical treatments, and upkeep than a clover lawn does.
\n\n\n\nIf you want to hunt for a lucky four-leaf clover instead of planting them then we can help! We’ll find a lawn care professional near you to roll out the green carpet for your new lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"Types of Clover Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/1789c/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/107df/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/293e9/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/f2cbb/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/1789c/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/c26c2/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/1dd6e/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/67b76/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/8df11/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/98a65/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/1dd6e/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/71554556f1f016d5ede923f3477077e2/3cc96/rsz_grass-blossom-plant-field-lawn-meadow-570523-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Types of Clover Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Three types of clover species are commonly found in lawns across the U.S: white clover, red clover, and strawberry clover."}}},{"node":{"id":"9c0691da-f56c-546a-94e5-cef58facaeaf","slug":"how-to-choose-pet-safe-weed-killers","path":"/blog/how-to-choose-pet-safe-weed-killers/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Cats and dogs are curious by nature and will sniff or lick the chemicals you spray on your lawn. That’s why you need to know how to choose pet-safe weed killers. Rather than worry about an emergency trip to the vet, we’ll tell you how to select the safest weed killers for your lawn. Contents: […]
\n","content":"\nCats and dogs are curious by nature and will sniff or lick the chemicals you spray on your lawn. That’s why you need to know how to choose pet-safe weed killers.
\n\n\n\nRather than worry about an emergency trip to the vet, we’ll tell you how to select the safest weed killers for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nMany weed and grass killers contain toxic chemicals, which can cause serious harm to your pet. Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine found that using lawn chemicals, like glyphosate, increases a dog’s chance of developing cancer by up to 70%.
\n\n\n\nWhen looking for a pet-safe weed killer, pay close attention to the labels and check the active ingredients, certifications, types of weeds the product treats, and whether it’s a weed killer or weed preventer. Even if a product is labeled as “organic” or “pet-safe,” you still need to check what’s in it.
\n\n\n\nSome ingredients commonly found in animal-friendly herbicides include:
\n\n\n\nIf a product says it’s certified, do a little research and verify the organization or governing body that issued the certification. Some reputable organizations include Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) and California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), which are private, non-profit groups.
\n\n\n\nYou should avoid using any chemical weed killers containing:
\n\n\n\nSeveral companies like Get Sunday, Preen, Green Gobbler, and Dr. Kirchner specialize in effective pet-safe weed killers that won’t harm your grass or flowers.
\n\n\n\nYou can make several homemade weed killers and avoid exposing your dog or cat to harsh chemicals. Make sure your homemade weed killer doesn’t contain anything that could harm your pet. Safe options include:
\n\n\n\n1. What are the symptoms of weed killer poisoning in pets?
\n\n\n\nThe signs to watch for include:
\n\n\n\nIf your pet displays these symptoms and you suspect they were exposed to toxic chemicals, contact your vet immediately.
\n\n\n\n2. How long should I wait to let my dogs on the lawn after applying a weed killer?
\n\n\n\nWait at least 24 hours to make sure the product has completely dried before letting your kids, cats, and dogs play on it. Watering your lawn the next day will help the products dissipate.
\n\n\n\n3. What do I do after spraying weed killer to keep my pet safe?
\n\n\n\nWait a couple of days and pull up the pesky weeds. Make sure you get the root. If the roots are intact, the weeds can grow back. Wait at least two days after applying weed killer to mow.
\n\n\n\n4. Are there any downsides to pet-friendly weed killers?
\n\n\n\nYes. They don’t work as quickly, can be less effective on certain weeds, and vinegar-based solutions can increase the salt levels in your soil.
\n\n\n\n5. How do pet-safe weed killers work?
\n\n\n\nMost ingredients like vinegar, salt, and soap, dry out the plant, and corn gluten meal prevents seeds from sprouting.
Got a yard full of weeds but little time to get rid of them? We can help you find an eco-garden pro or lawn care professional who can handle the problem while you and your furry friend relax.
Main photo credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"How to Choose Pet-Safe Weed Killers","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5018773466833542,"src":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1789c/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/107df/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/293e9/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/f2cbb/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1789c/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/c26c2/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1dd6e/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/67b76/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/8df11/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/98a65/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/1dd6e/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/c42c657baa31a5ab6e3a5f8f035e5c31/3cc96/rsz_white-puppy-dog-cute-alone-isolated-1003821-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Choose Pet-Safe Weed Killers | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"You can avoid an expensive trip to the vet if you know how to choose pet-safe weed killers for your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"280fcb8d-560d-5e7f-98bb-3dbfa40ef697","slug":"why-lawn-care-is-essential-service","path":"/lawn-care/why-lawn-care-is-essential-service/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Brenda Stuart is a radio journalist and content manager whose goal is to have the greenest lawn and prettiest garden on the block.","name":"Brenda Stuart","id":"fcad9a7b-532b-583f-832f-0cffbbcfa0a3","path":"/author/brendastuartryangmail-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5e5ae7b8ac8b21db046b4f507fbec2aa?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"April 9th, 2020","excerpt":"Food. Clothing. Shelter. Lawn care. All are essential to well-being. No one questions by the first three, but lawn care? While it might not seem so at first glance, there are good reasons many state and local governments have deemed lawn care is an essential service, even during a pandemic. Public Safety Mother Nature didn’t […]
\n","content":"\nFood. Clothing. Shelter. Lawn care. All are essential to well-being. No one questions by the first three, but lawn care? While it might not seem so at first glance, there are good reasons many state and local governments have deemed lawn care is an essential service, even during a pandemic.
\n\n\n\nMother Nature didn’t get the memo about self-isolation, and springtime plant growth is going full-tilt. Those weeds coming up in the sidewalk cracks and tall grasses growing along roadways are more than a visual issue. They present a public safety hazard. Unchecked weeds can make passage near impossible for people with mobility impairments, wheelchair users in particular. Weeds also compromise walkways over time, leading to cracking and heaving. Anything that forces wheelchair users into roadways is dangerous for obvious reasons.
\n\n\n\nOvergrown grasses, shrubs, and trees in medians and public right-of-ways impairs your visibility along roads with blind turns and intersections. No wonder the National Association of Landscape Professionals petitioned the federal government to affirm that lawn care should bear the essential service label.
\n\n\n\nTall grasses and weeds give a yard an unkempt look, but that’s the least of your worries. The reason that hundreds of cities, counties and homeowners associations regulate lawn length is due to public health and safety. Those regulations have been upheld many times in court cases, and the consequences for failure to comply range from fines to foreclosure. So if a local agency can threaten a lien against your property for not mowing grass, they can hardly claim it isn’t an essential service.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/grass-snake-pixabay-634639_1280.jpg\")
The reasons are many. An overgrown lawn is an open invitation for snakes looking for a place to lay eggs. Insect vectors of disease thrive in tall grass and weedy areas. Rodents, fleas, mosquitoes, and ticks are all more than happy to nest in neglected yards, where they pose a threat to humans and pets. Ticks and fleas are a serious concern. They carry Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, babesiosis, and a form of encephalitis. Our health care system has enough to deal with right now, without worrying about insect born diseases. Keeping vegetation under control is necessary for keeping dangerous insects in check.
\n\n\n\nWhile trees and shrubs provide privacy and shade, they also need to be maintained to stay healthy and reduce risks. Trees with weak or dead branches pose a threat to our roofs. Purdue Univerity urban forestry specialist Lindsey Purcell says, “The most important reason to prune a mature tree is to reduce the risk of tree failure, especially in the crown. This includes removing weak branches on a tree in decline or branches damaged by a storm.” He recommends cutting in late spring to minimize the risk of infection to the tree. It’s also easier to spot damage and dead branches when buds and leaves emerge.
\n\n\n\nAnother important aspect of maintaining grass, shrubs, and other landscape plants? Home security. Tall grass and shrubs contribute to opportunities for crime, giving ne’er-do-wells places to hide. Unattended trees and shrubs also obscure the view of security cameras or block the view of address numbers. Wayward branches can even injure pedestrians walking by your yard. Proper lawn care and yard maintenance can help to keep you, your home, and your neighbors safe.
\n\n\n\nMental health and a tidy landscape go hand in hand. Service lapses in fields, parks, homes, and businesses can quickly lead to chaotic-looking neighborhoods, which can take a mental toll on residents. Josh Perkins, owner of Plant Studio Landscape in Muncie, Ind., points out, “If all the landscapers stopped working, our cities would look like a scene out of an apocalypse movie, fast.” He goes on to note that, “Everything would look rundown, and it would be hard to recover from.” Maintaining a landscape is no different from maintaining a vehicle, he says: All the ongoing care you put into a landscape ensures it will continue to function in the future.
\n\n\n\nFar from being a luxury, lawn care is justifiably categorized as essential in almost every major municipality. Keep in mind, some cities consider lawn and tree care essential, but professional mulching and flower bed prep can wait. For national health, safety, and well-being, we need to make sure that our yards and properties stay maintained during this difficult time.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/lindsey-purcell.jpg\")
Lindsey Purcell is an urban forestry specialist who teaches at Purdue’s College of Agriculture. He also serves as executive director of the Indiana Arborists Association. He’s a certified arborist who once served as the forestry supervisor with the city of Indianapolis and the director of operations for The Nature Conservancy of Indiana.
\n\n\n","title":"Why Lawn Care Is an Essential Service in a Pandemic","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.915873015873016,"src":"/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/1789c/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/107df/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/293e9/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/f2cbb/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/1789c/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/d434c/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.jpg 1207w","srcWebp":"/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/1dd6e/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/67b76/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/8df11/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/98a65/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/1dd6e/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/2626c31fceed85b7032aeb0a4b348958/4ed27/rsz_lawn-care-weed-whacker-tall-grass.webp 1207w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Why Lawn Care Is an Essential Service in a Pandemic | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"cbcbc672-7fb2-51a1-a118-834cceeaaa1b","slug":"how-to-use-salt-kill-weeds","path":"/blog/how-to-use-salt-kill-weeds/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Surely there is another way to kill stubborn weeds than using dangerous chemicals or expensive organic herbicides, right? Right. This article discusses how to use salt to kill weeds. It turns out you can get rid of weeds in a way that does not pose a health risk to you and your loved ones. And […]
\n","content":"\nSurely there is another way to kill stubborn weeds than using dangerous chemicals or expensive organic herbicides, right? Right. This article discusses how to use salt to kill weeds. It turns out you can get rid of weeds in a way that does not pose a health risk to you and your loved ones. And it’s right in your kitchen cabinet!
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to learn how to kill weeds with salt instead of toxic chemicals like Roundup.
\n\n\nWho knew sodium chloride, aka regular ole table salt, could be so useful in the yard? Even if all you have is the salt you use to season your food, you can use it to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location where it gets icy regularly, you may also keep rock salt, the salt placed on the ground to eat away ice in winter, in the house. It can also be used to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nSolutions more concentrated with salt can disrupt the soil composition and hurt other plants you want to keep. So, a 1-to-2 salt-to-water mixture is best in a flower bed or on your lawn. You can start with a 1:3 salt-to-water ratio and increase the salt content daily until it starts killing the weeds.
\n\n\n\nIn areas where soil health preservation is not important, like cracks in the driveway, a 2:1 or 3:1 salt-to-water ratio can be used to kill the weeds more quickly and with fewer applications.
\n\n\n\nAdd a little white vinegar and liquid dish soap to make the salt solution more effective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhat you need:
\n\n\n\nThere are a couple of ways to apply rock salt as a post-emergent weed killer.
\n\n\n\nEasy No-Mix Rock Salt Weed Killer: Sprinkle a little rock salt on the ground at the base of the weed. This is a fast method for controlling weeds sprouting in driveways and walkways and between pavers. The pesky plants will die within about a week and a half. Rock salt will also kill grass and other plants and stop anything from growing where it has been sprinkled, giving it a pre-emergent herbicidal quality. Rain will eventually dissipate the effects.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Spray Recipe: Add 1 cup of rock salt to 1 gallon of hot water. Mix until the salt is dissolved. Put the combination into a spray bottle. This solution is a good way to kill weeds in grass and flower beds because you can spray it directly on weeds and keep it from coming into contact with the plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/using-spray-to-kill-a-weed-in-mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: killerb10 / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve mixed your salt spray, spray it directly onto the weeds you want to kill. Be careful not to get too much salt water on your grass or ornamental plants. After five days, respray the weeds. Wait another five days and reapply. If there is torrential rain, it could dilute the salt, and you may have to reapply it sooner than five days.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t want to saturate your soil with salt water. It can harm the soil and nearby plants. So, after spraying weeds with salt water, thoroughly water the roots of any nearby vegetation to dilute any salt solution that made contact with grass or ornamentals.
\n\n\n\nOverall, a salt spray is best for small-scale weed problems.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe type of salt used is important. It must be rock salt or sodium chloride to kill weeds. Table salt that is iodized or non-iodized will work. Avoid using sea salt and magnesium sulfate, which is also known as Epsom salt.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSalt is so effective at killing weeds that it can kill other plants and disrupt the soil composition so that nothing grows for a few years. As previously stated, this prevention of regrowth gives salt a pre-emergent herbicidal quality.
\n\n\n\nSalt contains acetic acid, which pulls out moisture. The way salt kills weeds is by dehydrating them and disrupting the plant cells’ internal water balance. Weeds absorb this natural weed killer more when water is added to the salt. Salt burns the foliage and prevents the plant from getting sufficient water.
\n\n\n\nWhite vinegar also has acetic acid, so adding a little of it to your salt solution will increase the moisture extraction effects.
\n\n\n\nAdding a little liquid dish soap to your solution can also make the salt more effective because dish soap is a surfactant, meaning it reduces the water’s surface tension, enabling the plant to absorb more of the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"salt](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/salt-being-poured-from-someones-fingers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: taffpix / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt is not toxic like chemical herbicides. However, applying salt as a weed killer does come with advantages and disadvantages. Let’s look at some:
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\n✓ Does not cause health risks that herbicidal chemicals containing ingredients like 2,4-D and glyphosate are linked to, such as endocrine disruption and cancer
✓ Cheaper weed killer than commercial herbicides
✓ Children and pets do not have to stay off the grass to avoid toxic exposure
✓ Effectively kills smaller weeds
✓ Can be used near edible plants without exposing them to dangerous chemicals
Cons:
\n\n\n\n✗ Large quantities can change the pH level of the soil and make it sterile
✗ Can kill nearby plants and grass
✗ May not work on salt-tolerant plants
✗ Not as effective on large plants
✗ Should be used for weed killing on a small scale
Salt is not the only homemade weed killer that can effectively replace toxic chemical herbicides.
\n\n\n\nBoiling water has some of the same benefits and disadvantages as a salt solution. Surrounding plants can be damaged if boiling water splashes on them. On the other hand, boiling water will not disturb the chemical composition of the soil and damage it or prevent future growth.
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions usually include adding salt, but the amount of salt is less. The most effective vinegar mixtures are made with vinegar that is 20% acetic acid, also known as herbicidal vinegar. These weed killers, like salt, can change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\nUltimately, the decision of which homemade weed-killing method to use is up to you. To salt or not to salt? That is the question. All of these non-toxic herbicides are safer for pets and humans than their commercial herbicide counterparts.
\n\n\n\nIt typically takes about 10 days for a salt and water solution to kill existing weeds.
Practicing good lawn care management regularly will help prevent weeds in the first place. It is difficult for unwanted plants to sprout in a well-kept lawn or garden. Here are some tips for preventing weeds in your landscape:
● Use mulch in gardens and on the lawn. Mulch stops weed growth. Apply organic mulch to decrease weed germination. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn after mowing is a natural way to fertilize the grass and suppress weeds. However, leaving clippings when you have lawn weeds will spread the seeds.
● Check for weeds regularly so you can eliminate them when they are young and few.
● Plant grass seed adapted to your area, which will thrive in your climate and more easily outcompete local weeds.
● Mow, water, and fertilize the grass as recommended for your grass type. See recommendations for cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses in our guides.
● Treat the lawn for diseases and insects to keep the grass healthy and weed-resistant.
● Pull up weeds with a tool or by hand and remove the taproot to prevent regrowth.
● Plant ground cover. These ornamentals spread quickly, providing a dense carpet that smothers and suppresses weeds.
Pulling weeds by hand or with a tool is an eco-friendly method that doesn’t affect the soil or other plants. It is easier to manage weeds this way when there are only a few of them and they are young. Wet the soil to remove weeds more easily. Ensure you have removed the entire root system to prevent regrowth.
Having a way to manage weeds that is cheaper and more convenient than commercial herbicides is nice. Having a way to manage weeds that is safer for your family, fur babies, and the environment is priceless. Salt is both!
\n\n\n\n
But if you need a break from DIY landscape maintenance, there is a way you can have your cake and eat it, too. Enjoy a beautiful, thriving yard and some leisure time by connecting with qualified lawn care professionals in your area to do all the work while you chill.
Main Photo Credit: ac_bnphotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/107df/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/293e9/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/f2cbb/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1789c/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/c26c2/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/67b76/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 320w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/8df11/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 500w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/98a65/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 800w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/1dd6e/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 960w,\n/static/da0b1bdd6613a5156fd8504883834f67/3cc96/Salt-poured-ona-table-and-the-word-salt-written-in-the-salt-pile-1-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Use Salt to Kill Weeds | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Did you know you have an ingredient in your kitchen that can kill weeds? Learn how to use salt to kill weeds instead of dangerous herbicides."}}},{"node":{"id":"7d2e7680-104e-527f-87e0-074b1de19b72","slug":"how-to-use-weed-and-feed","path":"/blog/how-to-use-weed-and-feed/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"You cannot create an attractive and healthy lawn just by eliminating weeds. It is also essential to feed your grass the necessary nutrients. Weed and feed products allow you to check both these lawn care tasks off your list in one go. This article will explore how to use weed and feed for your lawn. […]
\n","content":"\nYou cannot create an attractive and healthy lawn just by eliminating weeds. It is also essential to feed your grass the necessary nutrients. Weed and feed products allow you to check both these lawn care tasks off your list in one go. This article will explore how to use weed and feed for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThese products are designed not only to control weeds but also to foster healthy, thriving, green grass. In addition to how to use weed and feed, this article also discusses what weed and feed is, how it works, and how it can be a friend or foe.
\n\n\nIt is best to apply weed and feed when the temperature is between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Most areas of the country experience these temperatures in late spring and early fall.
\n\n\n\nIt is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during this time of year. Spring and fall are also the best times to fertilize your lawn, depending on your grass type – late spring for warm-season grasses, fall for cool-season grasses.
\n\n\nInfographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nProducts with nitrogen should not be used until the soil temperature at a depth of 4 inches is consistently 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If the product has potassium instead of nitrogen, it can be applied during the end of winter or early spring.
\n\n\n\nKeep in mind that grass should be fertilized at specific times and intervals to remain healthy. Weed killers must also be applied at specific times of year to be effective. The proper timing for fertilizer and weed control doesn’t always overlap, which is one reason why weed and feed can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nDo not apply weed and feed more than twice annually, and do not use the products in extreme temperatures, hot spells, droughts, or on windy days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUsing weed and feed takes pre-planning to make sure the product works. Here are some things you can do before applying weed and feed to ensure the best possible results:
\n\n\n\n— Select a day to apply weed and feed when it is not forecasted to rain for about a week. Water will wash away the product before it can take effect.
— For new lawns recently seeded, do not apply weed and feed until the grass has grown enough that you’ve had to mow it twice.
— About two days before you apply weed and feed, mow your grass to a normal height. This will help the weed and feed absorb evenly into your lawn.
— Watering your grass helps granules adhere to the weeds. But do not water it too much, as it will have an adverse effect. The grass should be slightly damp when you apply the product.
![\"hand-held](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_114848000106_62e914cb15_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jerry Norbury / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\nMake sure you use the proper tools to apply weed and feed and wear protective clothing and accessories. You do not want to be exposed to these toxic chemicals any more than necessary.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\n— Sprayer for liquid weed and feed
— Drop-type spreader or rotary spreader for granules
Steps to apply weed and feed:
\n\n\n\n— For liquid weed and feed, mix and spray as per the product label’s directions.
— For granules, follow the product label’s instructions for adjusting the spreader settings.
— Open the spreader as per the product’s directions.
— Add the weed and feed in the amount indicated by the package instructions.
— If you are applying near plants you do not wish to kill, place plastic over them or use a drop spreader to protect the vegetation.
— Start at the edge of your lawn and go back and forth in parallel lines, spraying or spreading the weed and feed product consistently as you go. Move similarly to how you would if you were mowing, but overlap yourself slightly. This ensures every area is covered.
— Do not water or mow your lawn after applying weed and feed. Follow the product’s instructions for when to do so for granules and liquid products. If your product has no instructions, see our article on when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed.
![\"caution](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/224f4055-1667-42b4-b7d2-082a567c5f63-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ArtBoyMB / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products contain a combination of dangerous chemicals, like MCPP, 2,4-D, and dicamba. Some of these have been linked to chronic toxicity and cancer. Keep children and pets out of the treated area for as long as possible.
\n\n\n\nWait until after a heavy downpour before allowing them back in the yard. If you used a granular product, make sure you can no longer see the granules.
\n\n\n\nIf you would rather use a product that doesn’t put your loved ones at risk, see our list of pet-safe weed killers, which are safe to use around children, too.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Crabgrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Large-crabgrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nHere are some reasons your weed and feed application may not have worked:
\n\n\n\n— These products only work on broadleaf weeds and not grassy weeds like crabgrass. To treat crabgrass, you’ll need a product with a specific crabgrass preventer. Read the label to identify which weeds the product targets.
— You may have watered the grass too soon, or it may have rained too soon after the weed and feed application.
— Weeds must be mature and actively growing for weed and feed to be effective. So, you may have applied it at the wrong time in the weed’s life cycle.
— You did not follow all the prepping steps.
“Weed & feed” is what pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are called when they include a lawn fertilizer to nourish the grass. These products can improve your grass when applied at the right time. Improved, healthy grass reduces the chances of weeds sprouting.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent Weed and Feed: Most weed and feed products are post-emergents. They should be applied before weeds sprout to prevent the weed seeds from germinating. Some, like Scott’s Turf Builder, offer options with crabgrass preventer.
\n\n\n\nPost-Emergent Weed and Feed: Weed and feed post-emergents consist of dicamba and other chemicals that attack broadleaf weeds like dollarweed, dandelions, and plantain. They kill weeds that are actively growing, and they work most effectively when the weeds are young and vulnerable.
\n\n\n\nWhen a post-emergent weed and feed is applied, the weed’s foliage absorbs the toxins. Dicamba is a chemical that penetrates the plant’s roots, making the post-emergent more toxic to the weed. Homeowners should be aware that other plants also absorb the chemical and can be damaged. Be careful not to apply post-emergent weed and feeds on plants you want to keep around.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent and Post-Emergent Weed and Feed: Some products contain chemicals that are pre-emergent and post-emergent, which means they can kill currently growing weeds and prevent weeds from growing in the future. The chemical atrazine is an example.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"bags](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/e7e9bd22-a137-4af7-8800-a8c9ed2b9213.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Srinuan Hirunwat / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSelecting the right weed and feed is similar to choosing the appropriate weed killer or fertilizer separately. Be familiar with the weeds you need to eliminate and the type of grass you have. Make sure you know the best time to apply fertilizer to your lawn.
\n\n\n\nRead weed and feed labels to ensure the herbicide kills the type of weeds you have, determine if your grass has to be at a certain stage to use the product, and make sure the time of year to apply the herbicide coincides with the time your grass should be fertilized.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of weed and feed chemicals and products. Included are examples of weeds and grass types they can be used on:
\n\n\n\nAce Lawn Weed Killer
\n\n\n\n— Attacks broadleaf weeds
— Safe to use on: Bermudagrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and Zoysiagrass
MCPP, 2,4-D, and Dicamba Mixture
\n\n\n\n— Attacks broadleaf weeds
— Safe to use on: St. Augustinegrass, tall fescue, Bahiagrass
Scotts Turf Builder
\n\n\n\n— Contains 2,4-D and Dicamba
— Controls several weeds, including common weeds like clover, henbit, and chickweed
— Offers products with crabgrass preventer
— Safe to use on: Centipedegrass, Bahiagrass, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue
How long should you wait before reseeding a lawn after applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed can stop seed germination, so you must ensure it is completely absorbed before reseeding. Wait four weeks before planting grass seed. Likewise, waiting four weeks before overseeding your lawn is also best.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is a lawn treated with herbicides safe for children and pets?
\n\n\n\nAllow a hard rain to wash away any residual from the herbicide. You can also water your grass a few days consecutively before letting children and pets on the grass.
\n\n\n\nWhen not in use, keep herbicides out of the reach of children and pets. These chemicals can be just as harmful to pets as they are to humans.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow can I reduce runoff from herbicides?
\n\n\n\nHerbicides that have spilled over onto hard surfaces like sidewalks or roads can be washed into storm drains. Use a rake or broom to push the chemicals back into your grass. This will reduce runoff that can harm the environment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou have a few choices to treat weeds. Whether you select pre-emergent, post-emergent, or weed and feed products depends on your specific situation. For example, the types of weeds you have, the stage of weed accumulation, and your grass type are all determinants.
\n\n\n\nYou may also base your decision on how the toxicity of chemicals can affect your family and choose DIY weed killer mixtures that are safe for humans and pets. In this case, you would have to fertilize your grass separately, which is not such a bad thing. Grass clippings left on the lawn after mowing are a natural fertilizer. If you have lawn weeds, avoid leaving grass clippings, as this will spread the weeds.
\n\n\n\nIt is important to practice good lawn care habits to maintain a healthy green lawn and keep lawn weeds from returning. Fertilizing, watering, and mowing your grass appropriately will help reduce the chances of weed growth. Treating your grass for diseases is also imperative.
\n\n\n\nAnd if you don’t feel like figuring out weed and feed and other lawn care products yourself, let WikiLawn connect you with qualified lawn care professionals in your area to keep your lawn healthy and appealing for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Use Weed and Feed for Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1789c/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg","srcSet":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/107df/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 320w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/293e9/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 500w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/f2cbb/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 800w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1789c/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 960w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/c26c2/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1dd6e/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/67b76/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 320w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/8df11/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 500w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/98a65/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 800w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/1dd6e/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 960w,\n/static/5a9efe0b22496dd9055fe2734db34fee/3cc96/ca55b829-6e9e-437b-bf55-04c507a3cdf9.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Use Weed and Feed for Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn how and when to use weed and feed products, examples of weeds they control, and the best products for different grass types."}}},{"node":{"id":"ff5060d1-0b95-5566-8d4f-fdefd13e6b51","slug":"how-to-grow-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-grow-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"Looking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need! Bahiagrass […]
\n","content":"\nLooking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need!
\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: With a moderate to high growth rate, it needs frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nInsect pest tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown along the Gulf Coast and in the Southeastern U.S. It does best in acidic soils and is not the best grass if your soil is naturally alkaline. It doesn’t tolerate salt water well.
\n\n\n\nWhile this may come as a surprise to many, Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) is used mainly as a pasture grass and for hay production across the southeastern United States. However, selected varieties—Argentine and Pensacola, especially—work well as turfgrass species for lawns. Behind St. Augustinegrass, Bahia is the second most common turfgrass across much of the southeastern United States, and for a good reason.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is well-adapted to low-fertility soils and is excellent for homeowners wanting a low-maintenance, low-input lawn. It puts down a deep root system that spreads via underground rhizomes. This root system makes it great for areas prone to drought or lawns without an irrigation system. However, Bahia doesn’t form the same dense carpet as other warm-season grasses that spread using above-ground stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Bahiagrass is not the best choice for every Southern lawn, but it is ideal in many situations, especially if you have many acres of property to cover.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low water needs
\n\n\n\n✓ Low fertilizer requirements
\n\n\n\n✓ Lower maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\n✓ Deep root system
\n\n\n\n✓ Does well in sandy and other low-fertility soils
\n\n\n\n✓ Minimal insect and disease problems
\n\n\n\n✓ Thatch is generally not a concern
\n\n\n\n✓ Establishes from seed or sod
\n\n\n\n✗ Does not form a dense carpet
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed head stems dull mower blades quickly
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed heads need regular mowing, or they become an eyesore
\n\n\n\n✗ Only a few varieties are available for home lawns
\n\n\n\n✗ Open growth habit leaves space for weeds to grow
\n\n\n\nIf you’re considering switching your lawn to Bahiagrass or using it to start grass at a fresh build, you have the option of seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, some crucial differences between the two methods must be considered when choosing.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no denying that planting grass from seed is by far the cheaper of the two options and is much easier labor-wise to “install.” For homeowners with economic constraints, this makes seeding attractive. On the flip side, if you opt for seeding, the grass needs considerably more babysitting during the establishment process and takes quite a bit of time to grow into a beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod comes with a pretty hefty price tag, and the process is back-breaking – even more so for Bahiagrass sod, as it tends to fall apart unless you spend extra money for sod with a netting material to hold it together. That being said, once you get it down, you automatically have a nice green lawn, and it doesn’t take micromanaging to get it established like seeding does.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Depending on where you purchase seed from, expect to pay $100-$110 for a 25 lb bag of Pensacola Bahiagrass seed.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: A 400-square-foot pallet of Bahiagrass sod costs approximately $113 to $134.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Getting grass seed down in late spring or early summer is best. Warm-season grasses like Bahia grow the most when the air temperatures hit a whopping 85 to 95°F, so you want to plant just before temps climb this high. This helps your grass establish as quickly as possible, putting down a sound root system so it is well-prepared to go dormant and survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nNote: Not all grass seeds you scatter will germinate; some Bahiagrass seeds lay dormant and may sprout later in the season.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: Sod is a little more forgiving timing-wise and can be put down whenever you have time to tackle the project. However! You’ll have a much easier time getting it established if you do it in the spring or fall when temperatures are more moderate.
\n\n\n\nSince Bahia grows a little more sparsely than other turfgrasses, you can overseed your lawn annually with more Bahiagrass seed to keep it as thick as possible. Remember that no matter what you do, it will never grow as thick as Zoysia or other turfs with dense growth habits.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Yes, I’ve said that Bahiagrass is low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need your attention at all. Here are the basic rules of Bahiagrass lawn maintenance to follow.
\n\n\n\nIt was mentioned that Bahiagrass is fantastic for large acres and properties without irrigation. This doesn’t mean it will stay green regardless of how little or how much water it gets.
\n\n\n\nWhen you’re growing Bahiagrass without irrigation, it will go into a state of dormancy and turn brown during long periods of drought. Once the rain returns, the grass greens back up and resumes growing. In climates such as Florida, where it rains most days, you may not ever need to give a Bahia lawn supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nIf you can water your lawn, it’s best to keep an eye on it and watch for signs it needs water. You’ll see folded grass blades, a color change, and footprints will remain on the grass after you walk across it. So, if you see these things, turn on the sprinklers and give your grass one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water to get it green and perky.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer specifics will depend on the soil in your yard and how you’ve managed it before. You need to account for soil type, organic matter content, if you’ve mulched clippings back into the lawn, etc. To get an exact recommendation, perform a soil test before seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nAs a general rule of thumb, apply 1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of yard annually.
\n\n\n\nAlways check local guidelines for lawn fertilizer blackout dates or ordinances regarding its application.
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer, Bahia is known for its characteristic Y-shaped, two- or three-branched seed heads. To keep them in check and your grass looking nice, expect to mow your lawn every one to two weeks. During the hottest parts of summer, you may need to cut it a little more frequently unless you don’t mind the seed heads, but you’ll want to keep your grass 3 to 4 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nThe seed head stems are tough on mower blades, so you may need to sharpen them more frequently than with other grasses. Keeping mower blades sharp will help give you an excellent crisp cut when you mow instead of tearing the tops of the grass off with dull mower blades.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a Bahiagrass lawn weed-free is a challenge since Bahia doesn’t grow as thick or dense as some grass types. Weeds love to come in and reside in those bare spots and compete with your grass for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo do this, keep your grass mowed to the proper height, irrigate when you see signs of drought stress, and fertilize throughout the growing season. You can also consider periodically overseeding to help fill in some bare spots where the weeds like to hang out.
\n\n\n\nWhen proper lawn management doesn’t succeed in weed control, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are available in both chemical and organic formulations. Just stay away from products containing atrazine and metsulfuron because they damage Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, Bahia lawns experience very few insect and disease problems. Watch for mole crickets, Bahiagrass billbugs, and fall armyworms, as they may cause issues in Bahiagrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nThe two classifications of turfgrass are distinguished by where they have adapted to grow the best. Warm-season grasses prefer hot summers and mild winters and grow in the South. Cool-season grasses like temperate summers and can tolerate brutal winters; they grow mainly in the northern United States.
Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass.
Bahiagrass is typically grown on sandy soils in coastal areas, so there isn’t a need to aerate, as these soils don’t compact. Also, it isn’t a grass type that develops a lot of thatch, so dethatching isn’t usually necessary.
Sometimes, when it’s growing where it isn’t wanted, Bahiagrass is considered a weed rather than a turfgrass. If Bahiagrass is a weed in your book, and it’s overrunning your lawn, see our guide on how to get rid of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nIf you think a Bahiagrass lawn is a good fit for your landscape, contact one of our highly-qualified local lawn professionals. They can help get your lawn started or care for your established turf, giving you more time to spend doing what matters most to you – without sacrificing the quality of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/107df/Bahiagrass.jpg 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/293e9/Bahiagrass.jpg 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/f2cbb/Bahiagrass.jpg 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1789c/Bahiagrass.jpg 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/c26c2/Bahiagrass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/67b76/Bahiagrass.webp 320w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/8df11/Bahiagrass.webp 500w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/98a65/Bahiagrass.webp 800w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/1dd6e/Bahiagrass.webp 960w,\n/static/915b1bf34215a32d9ee781638fc388f5/3cc96/Bahiagrass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Everything You Need to Know About Growing Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Bahiagrass is a great, low-maintenance grass for Southern lawns with sandy soils. We have all the information you need if you’re looking to grow it!"}}},{"node":{"id":"17457154-501f-5fec-a746-d6ffe7372caa","slug":"how-to-keep-rabbits-out-of-yard","path":"/blog/how-to-keep-rabbits-out-of-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Rabbits can cause a lot of damage to your lawn and garden pretty quickly. There are a lot of ways to keep rabbits out of your yard, including natural deterrents, store-bought remedies, and preventative measures. In this article, we’ll talk about solving the big problems caused by these small animals. Table of Contents: Natural Methods […]
\n","content":"\nRabbits can cause a lot of damage to your lawn and garden pretty quickly. There are a lot of ways to keep rabbits out of your yard, including natural deterrents, store-bought remedies, and preventative measures.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll talk about solving the big problems caused by these small animals.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents:
\n\n\n\nYou likely have a lot of products in your home right now that should help keep bunnies away and minimize your rabbit problems.
\n\n\n\nDue in part to their strong sense of smell, rabbits will keep away from all three of these substances. Sprinkle any of these on their favorite plants, and they’ll steer clear.
\n\n\n\nThis tried and true method takes just a little prep work and offers non-toxic protection. Take a bar of Irish Spring and shave it using a cheese grater or something similar. Place the shavings into small mesh pouches and place them throughout your flower or vegetable garden.
\n\n\n\nRabbits don’t like the pungent smell or taste of these crops. By planting these around tastier veggies, such as carrots and lettuce, you can create a barrier to dissuade bunnies. Asparagus, rhubarb, leeks, and tomatoes are also viable options.
\n\n\n\nPlant flowers that rabbits naturally dislike. Geraniums, wax begonias, vincas, and salvia also make the list of unappealing plants while adding color and vibrancy to flowerbeds.
\n\n\n\nIt’s important to note that a hungry rabbit will eat what it can find, and not all rabbits have the same tastes. While these options are likely to work, They certainly aren’t a guarantee.
\n\n\n\n![\"Deter](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_rabbit-1543716_960_720.jpg\")
If you’re headed to the home supply store, you’ll find lots of options to repel rabbits and protect your lawn and garden.
\n\n\n\nThe most effective way to protect your garden and vegetation is by building a fence, and it’s something you can probably DIY in an afternoon. Keep in mind: Rabbits can jump about 2 feet high and squirm through tight spaces. You need to consider this when installing your fence.
\n\n\n\nChicken wire or mesh with openings of less than an inch work best. You can also use hardware cloth if you prefer. The fencing needs to be at least 2 feet high and either secured closely to the ground or inset by about 2 inches. This will prevent burrowing critters from sneaking in underneath.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1img_1665.jpg\")
Various sprays, powders, and additives are available to keep all garden pests at bay. It’s crucial to read the packaging carefully and follow the directions for how much to apply, where, and when.
Dried blood meal is another option, but you’ll need to reapply it after each rain. Similar to many of the natural ways noted above, rabbits may become accustomed to these remedies. You may want to rotate the products you use.
A final option is live trapping. This isn’t for everyone, and it may not be viable depending on where you live. However, this humane option may be your best bet.
\n\n\n\nPlace traps near popular food sources. You can also add a carrot, apple, or lettuce inside the trap as bait. Check the traps daily. Release trapped rabbits in safe areas several miles away to prevent them from finding their way back.
\n\n\n\nNote: Traps don’t discriminate, and you may find yourself with a variety of other animals as well.
\n\n\n\nThe easiest way to deal with any problem is to prevent it in the first place. You can keep rabbits out of your yard by eliminating areas for them to shelter. This, combined with the other remedies noted above, will be your most effective plan.
\n\n\n\nRabbits aren’t picky about where they burrow and nest, as long as it provides warmth, cover, and quick access to food sources.
\n\n\n\nDeer, chipmunks, moles, groundhogs, opossums, and about a dozen other animals could be responsible for the damage to your yard. Before getting started with rabbit-focused solutions, inspect the damage to ensure rabbits are the cause.
\n\n\n\nRabbit damage to trees and shrubs will be within 2.5 feet off the ground, as that’s about as far as the critters can reach when standing on their hind legs. Most telling are the smooth, straight cuts. Other animals leave jagged edges on plants, but rabbits will leave sharp edges on flowers, branches, and vegetables.
\n\n\n\nIf the damage you’re inspecting is to ornamental grasses and plants, it’s probably not a rabbit problem.
\n\n\n\nLike other wild animals, rabbits increase the presence of endangered birds and insects. However, in the process, rabbits damage many of the plants you’ve spent a lot of time nurturing.
\n\n\n\nRabbits aren’t picky eaters, and so they will destroy almost any plant they can reach. Grasses are a primary food source for rabbits, but they also enjoy flowers, weeds, sprouts, vegetables, fruits, and even bark.
\n\n\n\nWithout intervention, rabbits will nest, nibble, reproduce, and wreak utter havoc.
\n\n\n\n1. Are rabbits dangerous or just annoying?
\n\n\n\nRabbits are just annoying. They don’t pose any harm to humans, and most domestic pets are seen as predators.
\n\n\n\n2. What is the most effective way to get rid of rabbits?
\n\n\n\nYour best bet is a combination of exclusion practices and repellents or fencing. If you’re raising a vegetable garden, sound fencing is key. If you’re growing flowers or trying to protect your landscaping, repellents should do the trick..
\n\n\n\n3. What is the fastest way to solve my rabbit problem?
\n\n\n\nRemove their nests and burrows. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk. In the afternoon, when you’re likely to be doing yard work, rabbits will be lying low in their dens.
\n\n\n\n4. Are cottontails the same as domesticated rabbits?
\n\n\n\nNo. Cottontails are wild animals that cannot be bought or sold as pets. Domesticated bunnies come in various breeds, most of which look nothing like the cottontails in your yard.
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve had enough cottontails in your garden, it might be time to call in a lawn care or pest control professional to help. Give the rabbits the boot and get back to enjoying your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brenda Stuart | Wikilawn
\n","title":"How to Keep Rabbits Out of Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.2917115177610334,"src":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1789c/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/107df/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 320w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/293e9/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 500w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/f2cbb/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 800w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1789c/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 960w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/c26c2/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1dd6e/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/67b76/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 320w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/8df11/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 500w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/98a65/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 800w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1dd6e/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 960w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/3cc96/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Keep Rabbits Out of Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Those delightful, darling rabbits are downright destructive to your lawn. Find out how to keep rabbits out of your yard for good."}}},{"node":{"id":"8c5d3c4f-0706-52a1-a0f2-f523b637de35","slug":"how-to-dethatch-your-lawn","path":"/blog/how-to-dethatch-your-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Tanaka Muvavarirwa","id":"9b6ee454-b0ed-521f-b6c4-0850843dc6ad","path":"/author/brendalawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8cb72a46100b4d9c5fbf051a736aa16b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Are you finding clumps of dead grass and debris in your lawn? We’ll teach you how to dethatch your lawn to keep your grass green all season long. This guide contains everything you need to ensure your lawn remains thatch free. Contents: What Is Thatch How To Dethatch Your Lawn What Causes Thatch How To […]
\n","content":"\nAre you finding clumps of dead grass and debris in your lawn? We’ll teach you how to dethatch your lawn to keep your grass green all season long. This guide contains everything you need to ensure your lawn remains thatch free.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of dead and living material that forms from dead stems, mulch, and plant material and clumps together over time. These clumps usually appear as thick patches on the surface of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThatch has adverse effects on your lawn, attracting pests and harmful bacteria, making your yard less drought-tolerant over time.
\n\n\n\nPower rakes are effective tools for dethatching small lawns. Use a rake with rotating wire tines to cut through clumps of grass.
\n\n\n\nFor larger lawns with a thick layer of thatch, it’s better to use a mower. Vertical mowers contain blades that are perpendicular to the grass. The verticutter will rip through thatch as you go without damaging the grass blades, minimizing the presence of thatch on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou may need to trim your yard down further than you were expecting. If that’s the case, you’ll need to overseed your grass to make up for the thin layer of grass left behind.
\n\n\n\nAeration is an essential part of lawn maintenance. Aerators dig holes into your soil, allowing your grass to breathe. Aerating your lawn reduces clumping and minimizes the presence of thatch.
\n\n\n\nLiquid dethatchers such as Nature’s Biological Dethatcher are easy to use. Simply apply the solution to the surface of your lawn, and it will break up thatch over time.
\n\n\n\nAdd compost or soil over the top of your yard to break down thatch over time and revitalize your grass.
\n\n\n\nTrowels are small hand tools you can use to dig out the thatch. They’re best for small amounts of thatch and soil buildup.
\n\n\n\nYou can save yourself time and work by preventing thatch before it occurs.
\n\n\n\n1. Monitor soil levels: Test your soil frequently for changes in the pH and alkaline levels. High pH levels are often telltale signs of excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Sensible fertilization: It can be easy for an aspiring green thumb to over-fertilize their lawn. Only use as much fertilizer as you need for a healthy lawn and limit the use of nitrogen-based lawn fertilizers.
\n\n\n\n3. Reduce chemical Use: Using too many chemicals like bug spray can kill the earthworms that naturally control soil compaction. Try to limit the number of chemicals you use on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. Water regularly: A well-hydrated lawn prevents soil compaction, which leads to thatch.
\n\n\n\n5. Maintaining a regular lawn care routine: Make sure to mow your lawn regularly and use weed killer to eliminate weeds that can lead to thatch.
\n\n\n\nOne of the main causes of thatch build-up is over-fertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the grass to grow too quickly, often resulting in thatch.
\n\n\n\nThe type of grass in your yard may be a factor too. Some grasses are more prone to thatching, including Kentucky bluegrass, zoysiagrass, creeping red fescue, and creeping bentgrass.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is a straightforward process and will help promote the overall growth of your lawn. Make sure to include dethatching in your seasonal landscaping routine.
\n\n\n\n1. Which grass types don’t produce as much thatch build-up?
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass and tall fescue tend to bunch up and don’t produce much thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Do grass clippings produce thatch?
\n\n\n\nNo. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not cause thatch to accumulate on your lawn. In fact, the grass clippings are an excellent fertilizer and will prevent thatch because you won’t have to use a nitrogen-based fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n3. When should I remove thatch?
\n\n\n\nRemove thatch in the cooler months; late spring for warm-season grasses, early spring or late fall for cool-season grass types. Avoid removing thatch when your grass isn’t healthy, such as during a drought, as this can cause lasting damage to the turf.
\n\n\n\n4. Are there certain chemicals to avoid to reduce thatch?
\n\n\n\nYes. Fungicides, pesticides, and insecticides have a detrimental effect on your lawn. They kill microorganisms and earthworms and can promote thatch.
\n\n\n\nNot up for DIY lawn work? We can help you find a lawn care pro near you to dethatch, aerate, and mow your lawn, so you’ll have more time to enjoy it.
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