![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_RL_fSwMs7fEnzfhtE-Ih9-55bvubvie3NzpqdiiqtXosIsBI-dqswGaXMbhMTuQVKmNbNhLuAalurWhs6fBa21vZCwfMnyc7HFdM0fIvVHY6d795nMh89kpTxrJ1-gSH3nqPc7qMLFQdTUZl7N2oSg\")
Is unwanted clover in your yard making you feel unlucky? No problem. We’ll show you how to get rid of clover in your lawn. While clover has its benefits, it isn’t for everyone. In this article, we’ll cover: 8 Easy Ways to Get Rid of Clover What is Clover and What Type is in My […]
\n","content":"\nIs unwanted clover in your yard making you feel unlucky? No problem. We’ll show you how to get rid of clover in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nWhile clover has its benefits, it isn’t for everyone. In this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nClover is a common weed, but it doesn’t have to be a blight in your yard. Whether you have an entire lawn full of clover or a few small patches to contend with, it’s easy to get rid of the clover in your yard without killing your grass.
\n\n\n\nFor small patches of clover, it’s simply a matter of pulling it out. Don’t leave any of it on the lawn because the clover seeds will find their way back into your grass.
\n\n\n\nLoosen the soil with a spade to get the roots. It’s best to follow up with a preventative measure and apply corn gluten meal. Read on to find out why corn gluten meal is an excellent clover deterrent.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal (not the corn meal in your kitchen) is a natural pre-emergent herbicide. It won’t work on existing clover but will prevent any new clover from sprouting. You can buy this natural weed killer at most garden centers or online.
\n\n\n\nDon’t use corn gluten meal if you recently planted grass seed.
\n\n\n\nA Vinegar and dish soap solution is a non-toxic DIY treatment for any weed. Fill a spray bottle with one cup of herbicidal vinegar, one cup of water, and one drop of dish soap.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to spray the area regularly for a few weeks to eradicate the clover.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Vinegar products with 20% or more acetic acid kill weeds but will also damage turfgrass. Spray the solution only where you need it and overseed the treated areas if needed.
\n\n\n\nClover thrives in grass that is less than 3-inches tall. The easy fix to eliminate clover and give your lawn a fighting chance is to mow at the highest level for your specific grass type.
\n\n\n\nMeasure from the ground to the bottom of your mower’s mowing deck, then up to your mower blades. This total equals the mowing height.
\n\n\n\nEvery plant needs sunlight and water to grow. If you have a large clover section or want to start an area from scratch, you can cover it with plastic sheeting. You can also be frugal and use old pool liners or garbage bags.
\n\n\n\nUsing bricks or large rocks, you can keep the edges of the covering secured to the ground. In a few weeks, remove the plastic sheeting and re-seed the area.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: You can also use solarization to speed up the process. Cover the area with clear plastic to heat the soil to kill the weeds and seeds in the top 6 inches of soil.
\n\n\n\nWatch that you don’t cover surrounding plants in your garden or healthy lawn areas in the process
\n\n\n\nOrganic nitrogen-rich lawn fertilizer is an environmentally-friendly option that can benefit your lawn and kill clover. Clover spreads quickly in nitrogen-deficient yards.
\n\n\n\nYou only need to apply the fertilizer to the problem clover areas, but if your lawn shows signs of nitrogen deficiency, a thorough treatment may be more beneficial.
\n\n\n\nSay adios to clover! A.D.I.O.S., or Advanced Development In Organic Solutions, is an organic herbicide that controls weeds without damaging surrounding lawn growth.
\n\n\n\nYou can order A.D.I.O.S. online or buy it in most home improvement stores and garden centers.
\n\n\n\nYou may need a more aggressive approach if you struggle with lawn weeds such as clover, dandelions, and other broadleaf weeds. There are organic options that target weeds while leaving your grass intact.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf herbicides, like Ortho Ground Clear, are weed killers formulated with multiple herbicides to treat a wide range of weeds.
\n\n\n\nClover is a term used to describe a group of more than 300 species of plants belonging to the legume or pea family. You likely have clover if you spot little, round or oval, white or pink blooms with bees flying around them on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are 3-main types of clover common in the United States.
\n\n\n\nWhite clover is the most common type of clover found in the U.S. and has pinkish-white flowers. This cool-season perennial is closely related to the agricultural alfalfa and sweet clover. Microclover is the smallest variety.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/f5eK2wXCkMf7Qcetqvb4aKSy2NO5Q7jsXXcdOR6ENfC40RVJz48Hlzkl8oKMbyVCwtfZQD1E1JCNzL3Hd7uA3ShMul_aFeYXi_JUfj2H63S6KD6DO33pHjstEtgXOtM9PXdpq8if1hn0O4m5DQb_5Eg\")
Red clover has flowers with oval leaflets ranging from light rose to deep fuchsia. This perennial ground cover is also known as cow clover, meadow clover, and wild clover.
\n\n\n\nStrawberry clover is similar to white clover, but its white and pink flowers are slightly smaller. Also a perennial, this clover attracts birds and grows well in coastal areas or near river estuaries.
\n\n\n\nClover can appear in your lawn for a few reasons, usually due to problems with your soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are several pros and cons of clover lawn. These plants attract pollinators and require less watering and mowing to maintain your grass.
\n\n\n\nClover is also a natural fertilizer. It absorbs nitrogen from the air and releases it into the soil, giving you a healthier lawn. Clover offers weed control by crowding out other weeds and serves as an organic mulch.
\n\n\n\n1. What will kill clover but not kill grass?
\n\n\n\nUse an organic herbicide such as (A.D.I.O.S): Advanced Development In Organic Solutions to kill the clover without damaging the surrounding grass. Also, clover grows best in grass less than three inches tall, so cutting your turf higher will help your grass out-compete the clover.
\n\n\n\n2. Will clover go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. Clover is a perennial, meaning you’ll have to treat it every year until you eliminate it from your yard.
\n\n\n\n3. Is clover toxic to pets?
\n\n\n\nEach type of clover has a unique set of compounds that could pose a risk if eaten in large amounts. Mold and fungus that often attacks clover is the biggest issue as it interferes with your dog’s blood clotting process.
If you’d rather spend more time enjoying your lawn and less time maintaining it, delegate the dirty work to a local lawn care professional.
Main photo credit: Brenda Stuart / Wikilawn
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Clover in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/1789c/rsz_img_1583.jpg","srcSet":"/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/107df/rsz_img_1583.jpg 320w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/293e9/rsz_img_1583.jpg 500w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/f2cbb/rsz_img_1583.jpg 800w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/1789c/rsz_img_1583.jpg 960w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/c26c2/rsz_img_1583.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/1dd6e/rsz_img_1583.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/67b76/rsz_img_1583.webp 320w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/8df11/rsz_img_1583.webp 500w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/98a65/rsz_img_1583.webp 800w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/1dd6e/rsz_img_1583.webp 960w,\n/static/06828a99ead80d6a465c6199aef41f92/3cc96/rsz_img_1583.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Clover in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Having no luck eliminating clover? We’ll tell you how to get rid of clover in your lawn once and for all."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"92f50ab2-818b-5568-95a0-6b1bdfa44cc8","slug":"how-to-make-homemade-weed-killer","path":"/blog/how-to-make-homemade-weed-killer/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Getting rid of weeds doesn’t have to involve toxic chemicals or break the bank. Herbicides pose health risks to humans and the environment and can harm pets. On the other hand, the organic herbicides you can buy at the store and online are expensive. The solution is homemade weed killers! Keep reading to find out […]
\n","content":"\nGetting rid of weeds doesn’t have to involve toxic chemicals or break the bank. Herbicides pose health risks to humans and the environment and can harm pets. On the other hand, the organic herbicides you can buy at the store and online are expensive. The solution is homemade weed killers! Keep reading to find out how to make a homemade weed killer that actually works.
\n\n\n\nThese options kill weeds without exposing you and your loved ones to poisons that can have detrimental effects, and you probably already have most of the ingredients in your pantry.
\n\n\nA vinegar solution is probably the simplest, most effective, and most popular homemade weed killer you can make. Here’s how to do it with white vinegar or apple cider vinegar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/white-vinegar.jpg\")
Photo Credit: NatureFriend from Pixabay / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIngredients:
\n\n\n\n— 1 gallon of white vinegar (make sure it’s at least 5% acetic acid)
— 1 tablespoon of dish soap
— 1 cup of salt
How to Use: Pour the vinegar into a spray bottle and add the table salt. Mix them until the salt dissolves. Next, add the dishwashing liquid, which helps the solution stick to the weeds. You can use Castile soap for an all-natural option. Make sure the solution is well-mixed, then spray it directly onto the weeds you want to kill.
\n\n\n\nVinegar and salt can kill any plants, including grass, so be careful not to get the solution on plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"apple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/apple-cider-vinegar-next-to-apples-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: tylim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIngredients:
\n\n\n\n— ½ gallon apple cider vinegar
— ¼ cup salt
— 1 teaspoon dish soap
How to Use: Pour the apple cider vinegar into a large spray bottle. Mix in the salt until it dissolves completely, then mix in the dish soap. Apply the mixture directly to the weeds. This vinegar weed killer will destroy other plants, too. So, be careful when targeting weeds in your flower beds or on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe acetic acid in the vinegar breaks down the plant’s foliage by extracting moisture, killing the leaves. This natural weed killer works best on young and small weeds.
\n\n\n\nVegetation with deep taproots, like dandelions, may survive treatment. The top growth of these types of plants may be the only part that is killed. If the plants are very young and the roots undeveloped, the weed killer may work.
\n\n\n\nHerbicidal vinegar, which is 20% acetic acid, is a better solution for larger weeds and perennials. Weeds like crabgrass are better controlled with multiple treatments of herbicidal vinegar. However, herbicidal vinegar can burn your skin and eyes, so be careful when applying it.
\n\n\n\nTable salt also pulls out moisture. It contains acetic acid, too. Adding it to your vinegar solution improves the weed killer’s ability to dry out foliage.
\n\n\n\nLiquid dish soap acts as a surfactant that reduces the surface tension and allows the homemade weed killer to spread more evenly across and stick to the leaves, allowing it to penetrate the plant more effectively.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"using](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/using-spray-to-kill-a-weed-in-mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: killerb10 / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSpraying during a sunny day helps the acetic acid work more effectively. Spray directly on the targeted weeds. But remember that this solution is non-selective, so in addition to killing most broadleaf weeds, it can also kill other plants. Be careful not to get the solution on your grass or other landscape plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAlthough the cons of using a homemade vinegar solution are not as severe as using herbicides with harsh chemicals like glyphosate, there are some things to keep in mind. Here are some advantages and disadvantages of using a vinegar solution to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\n| Pros | Cons |
| ✓ Less harmful to humans and pets than commercial herbicides. | ✗ Vinegar with 11% or more acetic acid can burn the skin and cause severe eye injuries, including blindness. |
| ✓ Effective on most young broadleaf weeds. | ✗ Kills any plant it makes contact with. |
| ✓ If organic dish soap (i.e. Castile soap) is used, the solution has no synthetic chemicals. | ✗ Some dish soaps have synthetic ingredients that are harmful to the environment. |
| ✓ Acetic acid is biodegradable. | ✗ The typical 5% acetic acid concentration may not kill larger or more established weeds. |
| ✓ Very effective for weed control on patios, gravel, and sidewalks. | ✗ Multiple applications are typically needed. |
| ✓ You most likely already have all the required ingredients and won’t need to spend any additional money. | ✗ Only kills the foliage it is sprayed on and not the roots, meaning new weeds can sprout again unless you manually remove the roots. |
![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nHere are some other natural weed killers you can make using ingredients you have in your home already or can easily purchase at the grocery store.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSalt can kill weeds on its own or in a spray solution with water. You can use either table salt or rock salt. Learn how in our article on how to use salt to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPut a pot of water on the stove, let it boil, pour it into something with a spout – like a teapot – and soak the weeds you want to kill. Apply it to the leaves of the offending weeds and allow it to soak into the roots.
\n\n\n\nIf you have to pour the boiling water from a container without a spout, pour it on weeds in areas away from other plants, like walkways or cracks. That way, if the boiling water splashes or lands in a wider area than on the weeds, you will not damage other plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse a ratio of 2 tablespoons of alcohol to 1 quart of water and put the mixture in a spray bottle. Spot-treat the problem plants by spraying the mixture directly on the weeds. The solution kills the plant by draining moisture from the foliage, much like vinegar and salt.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Hands](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIf you get to the weeds when they are young and there are just a few of them, you can avoid the use of any weed killer. Except, of course, yourself. You can pull up weeds when they have just a few leaves and small root systems.
\n\n\n\nWeeds are easier to remove manually if the soil is wet, so water the lawn or garden before weeding or wait for a rainy day. When the soil is moist, use your hand, a weeding tool, or a garden trowel to pull up as much of the root system as possible. If you don’t get all the roots, the weeds can grow back.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCan you use homemade weed killers on weeds in grass?
\n\n\n\nYes, you can use homemade weed killers to kill weeds in grass, but you have to apply them carefully. DIY weed killers are non-selective, meaning they kill all plants they come in contact with, not just weeds. When applying homemade weed killers to lawn weeds, use a spray bottle to target the weeds directly, and get as little of it on your grass as possible.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre homemade weed killers safe for pets?
\n\n\n\nYes, the homemade weed killers on this list are safe to use around pets and kids, too. See our list of the best pet-safe weed killers and our article on how to choose pet-safe weed killers to learn which commercial herbicides are also safe for pets.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs there a DIY weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal is an organic alternative to weed and feed, although most homeowners won’t have this ingredient readily on hand.
You can buy organic herbicides that contain corn gluten meal as an active ingredient, or you can purchase corn gluten meal on its own. It acts as a pre-emergent and keeps weed seeds from germinating. It also contains nitrogen to fertilize the lawn. Corn gluten meal must be applied before seeds germinate, or it can cause the weeds to grow. Use the meal when it is going to be dry for at least two days. Multiple applications are typically required.
Commercial herbicides like Roundup contain dangerous chemicals. You can protect yourself, your family, your pets, the environment, and your grass and garden with safer homemade weed killer solutions. Of course, prevention is the best option. Practicing good seasonal lawn care and garden maintenance habits can help keep weeds at bay.
Whether you are using chemicals or DIY options, weed-killing and lawn maintenance is time-consuming and takes planning to be effective. Connect with a local lawn care professional who can help you manage weeds and keep your lawn and landscape healthy.
Main Photo Credit: AprylRED / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nA great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPlant growth is impacted by the pH balance of the soil. Grass and plants can’t survive in soil that’s too acidic or has too much alkaline. The pH number ranges from 1 to 14. A level below 7 is considered acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. A measurement of 7 is neutral.
\n\n\n\nKnowing the pH of soil lets you decide what to plant and where. The results of a soil test will also indicate how you can improve plant quality. This includes adding fertilizers and other amendments.
\n\n\n\nYou can buy a soil test kit at any home improvement or lawn and garden store. Choose a kit based on what you want to learn about your soil. These kits will come with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
\n\n\n\nAt-home testing kits are accurate enough for the casual gardener and lawn enthusiast. If you’re looking for something more specific, you should consider a full nutrient analysis. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with the soil testing kit and perform the analysis.
\n\n\n\nThe testing process will vary slightly depending on the kit you purchase, but the general process will be the same.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your sample has lots of earthworms wiggling about, this means your soil already has a strong composition of organic matter.
\n\n\n\nA soil amendment is anything added to the soil to improve nutrients, water retention, pH levels, air intake, and absorption. The goal of mixing amendments into your soil is to improve the environment for healthy root growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of soil amendments:
\n\n\n\nWhile mulch can be used to improve soil properties, it is not considered an amendment since it sits atop the soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for amendments depending on what your soil test indicates. Cover crops and composted manure are great options, but not always necessary for home gardeners.
\n\n\n\nMost residential soils will benefit from one of the following common amendments:
\n\n\n\nSome gardens will require very specific adjustments and might require one of the following:
\n\n\n\nThere are three broad classifications of soil based on the rock particles it contains. Texture can be amended by adding organic matter such as compost or plant material.
\n\n\n\nGarden soil should be about 5% organic matter. Organic matter ensures the release of nitrogen is adequate to support your lawn and plants without additional fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nWhen should you add soil amendments?
\n\n\n\nAdd organic amendments in the fall, allowing earthworms to work it deeper into the ground by spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to amend in the spring, do so as soon as the soil is dry enough to work with.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is the first step to healthy and lower maintenance gardens.
\n\n\n\nWhat elements should I keep in mind when amending my soil?
\n\n\n\nFrequent testing will help you determine if your amendments are working. Once you get the soil where you want it, you only need to test every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nSamples should come from near the plant roots. This could be a specific garden bed or a tree’s root system. To assess the soil quality in your lawn, take samples from different areas based on conditions.
\n\n\n\nPhosphorus: Promotes root growth, plant maturity, and winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nPotassium: Disease resistance, drought tolerance, and plant strength.
\n\n\n\nCalcium: Improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
\n\n\n\nMagnesium: Improves plant growth and chlorophyll production.
\n\n\n\n
While testing the soil in your yard might not be an overwhelming task, amending it might. If you find yourself short on time, patience, or ideas, consider calling on a local lawn care professional. The pros know just what to do to keep your soil healthy and when to do it, allowing you to simply enjoy the outcome.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/107df/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/293e9/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/f2cbb/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/c26c2/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/67b76/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/8df11/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/98a65/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/3cc96/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Healthy soil produces healthy plants and lawns. We’ll show you how to test and improve your soil for a greener lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"03e06922-154d-5b08-aae5-9bc9a993b812","slug":"pros-and-cons-of-artificial-grass","path":"/blog/pros-and-cons-of-artificial-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Carmen Dexter is a freelance journalist and teacher who enjoys growing her own organic food and recycling as much as possible.","name":"Carmen Dexter","id":"f23ec685-a615-5004-a3fd-c0bfe6b2c9ec","path":"/author/carmen-dexter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/e37085a8a22d319f3383613d59d54c5f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 2nd, 2022","excerpt":"The pros and cons of artificial grass include conserving water and the costs involved with installing a new lawn. You may decide the benefits outweigh the downsides if you’re tired of mowing and caring for a lawn. In this article, we’ll look at the pros and cons of installing artificial grass and why you should […]
\n","content":"\nThe pros and cons of artificial grass include conserving water and the costs involved with installing a new lawn. You may decide the benefits outweigh the downsides if you’re tired of mowing and caring for a lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll look at the pros and cons of installing artificial grass and why you should or shouldn’t consider it for your yard.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nOur lawns set the expectations for the rest of our property, and serve as a status symbol, so keeping them clean and green is essential. Depending on your location, income, and available time, synthetic grass may be the way to go.
\n\n\n\nWe use billions of gallons of water outdoors every day with about 50% used on the lawn! The Synthetic Turf Council estimates that every square foot of grass replaced with artificial turf saves 55 gallons of water per year. With that in mind, replacing an average-sized lawn of about 1800 square feet with fake grass saves 99,000 gallons of water every year. That cuts your water bill by about $500 a year.
\n\n\n\nTake care of your synthetic lawn, and it will be around for about 15 to 20 years. While you don’t need to water it, you’ll have to hose it down every week or so to get rid of dirt and debris. Sweeping or raking the turf regularly also keeps the blades standing upright for the years to come.
\n\n\n\nLawn mowers aren’t cheap, with the average cost at just over $1000. Consider breakdowns, repair of parts, and the price of gas, and you’re looking at even more. Add an edger, weed wacker, and a fertilizer and seed spreader, and the cost multiplies. Artificial turf is a no mow grass, so these costs disappear.
\n\n\n\nInstalling an artificial lawn removes the risks of yard work. It also eliminates the need for dangerous chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Not only will you save money, you won’t have to remember to do it!
\n\n\n\nEven after a heavy rain, you won’t have to worry about mud puddles, muddy paws or fur, and extra baths for Rover. You won’t have stains or smells if you pick up poop daily and hose off dog pee regularly. Several companies also make artificial grass for dogs with antimicrobial and non-toxic properties.
\n\n\n\nWhen you lay out the artificial turf, you’re saying goodbye to mosquitoes, grubs, moles, voles, and other critters that like to munch on lawns. You also don’t have to worry about the mold that triggers allergies.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest expense with artificial grass is during installation. The average price is $12.33 per square foot, so the total cost depends on the size of your yard. But once that initial installation is done, you can look forward to 15 to 20 years of a low-maintenance, low-cost yard.
\n\n\n\nFake grass isn’t for everyone. Some homeowners just don’t like it. Others may simply prefer other alternatives to a grass lawn. A few other reasons may turn some folks away from synthetic turf.
\n\n\n\nFake grass doesn’t have the ability to transpire water through openings on the blades. So, yes, it gets hotter than a natural grass lawn in the summer. Just how much hotter depends on your climate and what kind of artificial turf you have.
\n\n\n\nHigh-quality synthetic lawns have UV inhibitors that resist the absorption of sunlight and help keep them cooler. Certain infills may lower the lawn temps by up to 25%. If you live in a hot climate, you can help solve the problem by hosing it down for a few minutes and making sure there’s plenty of shade in your yard for kids or pets.
\n\n\n\nWe need living plants, including natural grass, to survive. They are responsible for the air we breathe and the food we eat. Artificial grass also lowers your yard’s biodiversity since it doesn’t attract wildlife or pollinators.
\n\n\n\nStudies have shown fake grass to exhibit increased runoff, which can contribute to water pollution. Synthetic turf doesn’t cool the air or absorb carbon dioxide like natural grass.
\n\n\n\nArtificial grass is made of plastic. While it does eliminate the need for gas-powered mowers that pollute, it eventually becomes part of the pollution problem. Synthetic turf can be recycled, but the equipment is expensive, and the process is difficult. There are no plants designed specifically to recycle fake grass, so it ends up in landfills and contributes to microplastic pollution.
\n\n\n\nThe debate over the seriousness of sports injuries on artificial turf vs. natural grass continues. Some NFL players insist artificial grass is harder on the body. Many homeowners groups in New Jersey and Connecticut have waged a turf war with their cities over concerns about the chemicals and recycled tires used in artificial grass for parks and playgrounds. The EPA is still researching these claims as it looks at the pros and cons of artificial grass.
\n\n\n\nWe touched on this in the pros of artificial grass, but no matter how well you care for it, artificial grass doesn’t last forever. Quality fake grass may hold up for as long as 20 years. More inferior products may start looking ratty after just five.
\n\n\n\nWarranties on the synthetic grass range from 5 years to life, depending on the manufacturer. There are also several caveats on warranties, so if you aren’t meticulous with your maintenance, you’ll void the guarantee. Regardless of who pays or how long it lasts, you will eventually have to replace your artificial lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve got a lot of property, installing artificial turf may be out of your financial reach. Once again, the average cost of installation is more than $12 per square foot. Since the average lawn size is more than 10,000 square feet, laying artificial turf over that space can set you back as much as $123,000.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t want to break the bank but still want to replace some real grass, consider installing a putting green in your backyard or using a small patch of synthetic grass in your landscape design.
\n\n\n\n1. Does artificial grass get damaged?
\n\n\n\nYes. Sharp objects may cut both the blades and the backing of the fake grass. Hot items falling from the barbecue can melt the turf. And petroleum-based products or harsh cleaning fluids can damage and discolor your artificial lawn.
\n\n\n\n2. Can artificial grass be repaired?
\n\n\n\nYes. You can remove the damaged area, replace the base, and install a fresh patch of artificial turf and add infill.
\n\n\n\n3. Can I install artificial grass myself?
\n\n\n\nYes, in fact, installing artificial grass yourself will significantly reduce the cost. Expect the project to take three days.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Petar Tonchev | Unsplash
\n","title":"Pros and Cons of Artificial Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/1789c/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/107df/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg 320w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/293e9/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg 500w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/f2cbb/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg 800w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/1789c/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg 960w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/c26c2/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/1dd6e/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/67b76/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp 320w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/8df11/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp 500w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/98a65/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp 800w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/1dd6e/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp 960w,\n/static/ad0758c1125eba1e14924e06b262ac1d/3cc96/rsz_petar-tonchev-c-5-qe5kbyk-unsplash.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Pros and Cons of Artificial Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"No more mowing, edging, or weeding when you install an artificial lawn, but you may end up spending more. We look at the pros and cons of artificial grass."}}},{"node":{"id":"16d1d19a-5b82-534f-bfd2-e250c8ddf32d","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-bahiagrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Most comfortable with soil under her fingernails, Amanda has an enthusiasm for gardening, agriculture, and all things plant-related. With a master's degree in agriculture and more than a decade of experience gardening and tending to her lawn, she combines her plant knowledge and knack for writing to share what she knows and loves.","name":"Amanda Shiffler","id":"458fa7a4-b709-56ae-8d79-9dc400e34ff1","path":"/author/amanda-shiffler/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0048ef20c97263b5f26951aa210d62c8?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"June 22nd, 2023","excerpt":"I firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards. If you’re firmly […]
\n","content":"\nI firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re firmly in the Bahiagrass-grass-is-trash camp, let’s dive into different ways to get rid of Bahiagrass in your landscape!
\n\n\n\nWhether it’s in your lawn or taking up residence in your vegetable garden or flower beds, we’ve got options for you. I will also offer non-chemical approaches to get rid of Bahiagrass if you’re looking for sustainable solutions.
\n\n\nWhen you see Bahiagrass in your lawn or flower beds, the first instinct is to grab ahold of it and yank it out by hand. Manually pulling it out may work, but remember that it reproduces via rhizomes, so you have to remove the entire underground part of the plant, too. If you only hand-pull the top off, the rhizomes continue reproducing, sending out new grass shoots.
\n\n\n\nSo, with this in mind, you should attack Bahiagrass with a multi-pronged approach, employing cultural practices and chemical or natural herbicides.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nI understand if you’ve ever stood in the lawn chemical aisle at your local hardware or big box store feeling overwhelmed and dizzy by all the choices. There are shelves of different products claiming to control various weeds. And it is essential to pick the right one for the task.
\n\n\n\nBefore we get into specific products, let’s talk about two types of weed killers and what sets them apart from one another: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nI try to use pre-emergent herbicides whenever possible, as it’s easier to stop weeds from germinating (and yes, I’m going to classify Bahia as a weed in this situation) than it is to get rid of them once they sprout. You have limited pre-emergent options if you have Bahia growing on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlease note that it’s imperative to read the product label thoroughly. Only use herbicide you know is safe for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nCompared to pre-emergent products, you have many more options for post-emergent herbicides. However, care must still be taken to ensure you don’t harm your lawn. And be forewarned that you may need to apply these products more than once to control Bahia because of its deep rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nThe following selective herbicides are labeled for use on specific turf types, so they won’t harm the intended grass but should tackle the Bahia infestation. Plus, they’ll likely also get rid of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a little easier to control in flower beds or garden plots. While there is controversy surrounding glyphosate (commonly sold as RoundUp), it is an effective weed killer and works well when you are looking for something for spot treatment. Glyphosate is non-selective, killing anything it touches; be careful not to spray it when it’s windy or when the Bahia is close to other desired plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBeyond chemical treatment methods, you can implement some essential lawn care practices for the control of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nEncouraging a healthy, lush lawn is the best way to prevent unwanted grasses and weeds. A thick, dense carpet of grass will naturally choke out unwanted Bahia trying to take hold.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn on a regular schedule based on the type of grass you’re growing. For most grasses, this will be at least twice per year. Bahiagrass has low nutrient needs, so regular lawn fertilization will hinder its growth and keep it from returning.
\n\n\n\nBahia spreads primarily through underground rhizomes but also puts out distinctive, Y-shaped seed heads. These seed heads disperse and further spread the unwanted grass when left alone. Mowing your lawn consistently—at the appropriate lawn mower height for your turf type—helps prevent any Bahia in your grass from going to seed and spreading.
\n\n\n\nWhen dealing with Bahia that has gone to seed, you should bag and dispose of your grass clippings versus letting them fall back on the grass.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn so it isn’t too dry is a fantastic way to discourage Bahia from growing. Bahia is revered for its drought tolerance and will quickly move into established turf if the soil is too dry and the existing grass is stressed.
\n\n\n\nWater your grass deeply, yet infrequently, several times a week. Aim to give it about one inch of water (total) over the course of a week, but this amount varies slightly based on the grass you’re growing and the soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is opportunistic and will take over empty space, including the bare spots in your St. Augustine or Bermudagrass lawn. To help prevent it from sneaking its way in, anytime you see bare spots in your grass, sow grass seed quickly and cover the soil with a layer of mulch. Growing new grass as soon as possible will help keep Bahia at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFor those who want to veer away from traditional chemical control methods, you have a couple of options that may work. A quick caveat though: these methods typically have a lower success rate and take much longer to see results.
\n\n\n\nSome people swear by using vinegar (scientifically known as acetic acid) as a weed killer. Mix one cup of white distilled vinegar, one cup of water, and a few drops of dish soap from under your kitchen sink. Shake the ingredients together and spray or pour it directly on the Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nThe vinegar pulls water out of the plant, drying out the leaves and ultimately (hopefully) killing whatever you pour it on. This is why it’s essential only to spray it on weeds, making sure it doesn’t get on anything you want to keep.
\n\n\n\nI’ve tried this method myself and have gotten mixed results. I’ve found it works best if you apply it on hot, sunny days and then repeat it every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large Bahiagrass patches in your lawn or garden you want to get rid of, an effective way to tackle them naturally is to deprive the entire section of sunlight. Cover the Bahia with black plastic sheeting or large garbage bags, securing the corners so the covering stays in place. After a couple of weeks, everything under the plastic should be smothered out and dead.
\n\n\n\nPersonally, I think this method is best for your garden and flower beds. If you use it on your lawn, you’ll also kill any other grass in the area.
\n\n\n\nLastly, if you’re looking for an alternative pre-emergent method, you can apply corn gluten meal to your lawn. Use about 20 pounds of it per 1,000 square feet of grass for the best results.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal has been used as an organic, natural pre-emergent herbicide for many years. Researchers at Iowa State University unintentionally discovered its pre-emergent properties in the early 1990s. When applied to the soil, it releases dipeptides, organic compounds that dry out seeds, so they have trouble sprouting.
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a chemical control option, you must carefully choose a product that considers Bahia a “weed” and kills it without damaging your turf. Some commonly used post-emergent herbicides include metsulfuron-methyl, sethoxydim, and imazaquin. Always read the product label and double-check that the herbicide is safe for the type of grass you’re growing.
The biggest problem with leaving Bahiagrass mixed in your turfgrass is its potential to spread and take over. If left unchecked, it could push out your desired turf, whether St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, etc. Plus, Bahia seed heads are unsightly and pop up quickly when left unmowed.
Centipedegrass is the best choice if you’re looking for a warm-season turf that naturally keeps Bahiagrass out. It forms a dense, thick carpet of lawn that will usually keep Bahiagrass from creeping in or choke out any existing plants.
Hopefully, these ideas will help get rid of any unwanted Bahiagrass in your lawn. Once you’ve removed it, we’ve got plenty of resources online to help you with grass and lawn care to keep it from returning. And if you ever need help with lawn weed control, lawn care experts are only a click away!
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/107df/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/293e9/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/f2cbb/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1789c/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/c26c2/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/67b76/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 320w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/8df11/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 500w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/98a65/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 800w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/1dd6e/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 960w,\n/static/672c3bc3a550b534a4a7011678f04f3c/3cc96/1280px-Paspalum_notatum_habit3_7391321372-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Bahiagrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Here are some of the best ways to get rid of weedy Bahiagrass in your landscape without damaging your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"8719302c-8e2e-57fd-9765-e22670f44b96","slug":"best-grass-seed-for-overseeding","path":"/blog/best-grass-seed-for-overseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"How do you choose the best grass seed for overseeding? You need to know what grass type you have and then determine whether you want to add to it or use a seed mix or hybrid mix to improve your lawn. In this article, we’ll cover the best grass seed for overseeding your lawn and […]
\n","content":"\nHow do you choose the best grass seed for overseeding? You need to know what grass type you have and then determine whether you want to add to it or use a seed mix or hybrid mix to improve your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover the best grass seed for overseeding your lawn and popular seed mixes and hybrid mixes for a lush, green lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nHere are the six best grass seed varieties for overseeding:
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass grows densely and is resistant to disease. Kentucky bluegrass isn’t as drought-tolerant as other varieties, but bluegrass seed is the most popular because it produces a thick, dark green turf that stands up well to heavy traffic. This grass type is also self-spreading, making it easy to cultivate.
\n\n\n\nFescues are known for their rapid growth, providing quick results. Fescue grass is also drought-resistant and tolerates both sun and shade. Based on the texture you desire, you can choose different varieties of this cool-season grass, such as fine fescue or tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass germinates quickly but requires a lot of water. It does best in the transition zone and works well as an overseed for warm-season grasses. This grass has fine blades and stands up to heavy traffic. Ryegrass seeds are the most popular and typically cost less than other varieties.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Don’t confuse perennial ryegrass with annual ryegrass. Annual ryegrass has a lifespan of only one year. It is more prone to diseases and lawn pests than perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is a warm-season grass that’s drought-tolerant and devoted to the sun, so it thrives in the southern parts of the country. While this grass variety will produce a low-maintenance green lawn, it has its drawbacks. Cold temperatures and shade means it’s not the best grass seed for overseeding in the North.
\n\n\n\nA warm-season grass, buffalograss is slower to green than other grass types but requires minimal maintenance. This variety is popular across the Great Plains as well as the Midwest.
\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is well-suited to the transition zone and southern U.S. It’s a warm-season variety that tolerates colder temperatures and heavy foot traffic. Zoysiagrass prefers the sun and does well with little water, producing a dense turf.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find all sorts of hybrid grasses and seed mixes at your local home supply store and online retailers. Seed mixtures are designed to extend the life of your lawn, providing greenery in both the warmer and cooler months. Hybrids and other modifications support germination as well as the health and growth of new grass.
\n\n\n\nLook for seeds with a coating to retain moisture. This modification helps seeds germinate quickly and effectively once they’ve made soil contact. This will speed up the process, giving you the results you’re looking for faster.
\n\n\n\nBefore you lug out the spreader, rake, hose, and other tools to overseed your lawn, you need to decide what type of seed is best for your yard.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is doing well, you should overseed with the same grass type. The new seed will repair damage due to heavy traffic or unusual drought.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn is struggling due to too much or not enough sun exposure, prolonged water issues, or other environmental factors, you’re better off overseeding with a different grass type. Mixing seeds with different qualities will produce a vibrant and healthy yard throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are best suited to hot temperatures and lots of sun, so they grow best in southern states. These grass types are green and lush when temps are around 75 to 90 degrees. In the fall and winter, when temperatures drop, warm-season grasses lie dormant and turn brown.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses thrive in northern states. These varieties do well with temperature fluctuations, lying dormant in cold weather. Cool-season grasses perk up in the spring, growing best when temps are between 60 and 70 degrees.
\n\n\n\n1. What happens if I use the wrong grass seed?
\n\n\n\nYour lawn may look awkward with different textured grass types, or the seed just won’t sprout. You’ll need to overseed again next year to correct the lawn’s appearance.
\n\n\n\nDifferent grass varieties also grow at different rates. Perennial ryegrass and fine fescues are quick to sprout. Creeping red fescue and chewing fescue are much slower, so a mixture will give you an uneven lawn.
\n\n\n\n2. Should I fertilize the lawn right after I overseed?
\n\n\n\nNo. Hopefully, you’ve already fertilized your lawn in the spring. Fertilizing right before or right after overseeding forces the seeds to compete with the existing grass for nutrients. It may also encourage crabgrass growth which will compete with your grass seeds as well.
\n\n\n\n3. How long do I have to wait to walk on the lawn after I overseed?
\n\n\n\nWait at least two weeks, but longer if possible. You should limit the use of your lawn until the new seed has grown to about the same height as your existing grass, about 3-4 inches. This is when you can mow the grass for the first time and resume regular use. In total, it will take about three to four weeks.
\n\n\n\nOverwhelmed by all the grass seed choices? We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who will overseed, dethatch, aerate and mow your lawn, so you have time to relax and enjoy it.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
\n","title":"Best Grass Seed for Overseeding","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/1789c/rsz_img_3661.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/107df/rsz_img_3661.jpg 320w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/293e9/rsz_img_3661.jpg 500w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/f2cbb/rsz_img_3661.jpg 800w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/1789c/rsz_img_3661.jpg 960w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/c26c2/rsz_img_3661.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/1dd6e/rsz_img_3661.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/67b76/rsz_img_3661.webp 320w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/8df11/rsz_img_3661.webp 500w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/98a65/rsz_img_3661.webp 800w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/1dd6e/rsz_img_3661.webp 960w,\n/static/7772dd4278ef9036acf74ed1d399a24a/3cc96/rsz_img_3661.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Best Grass Seed for Overseeding | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Not every grass seed is created equal. We’ll help you choose the best grass seed for overseeding your lawn to give you a lush green yard,"}}},{"node":{"id":"fc01ca95-4faa-5ce8-8ef3-c9a4548de41e","slug":"when-to-water-after-weed-and-feed","path":"/blog/when-to-water-after-weed-and-feed/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Watering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on […]
\n","content":"\nWatering your lawn at the correct time interval after applying weed and feed ensures the product actually works. The type of weed and feed used determines the time frame in which the grass should be watered after administering the product. This article covers when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed, depending on the specific type.
\n\n\n\nKeep reading to find out how to get it right the first time.
\n\n\nWhen to water your lawn after applying weed and feed products is just as important as knowing how and when to apply weed and feed. Watering your grass too soon or too late can result in ineffective weed control and keep the fertilizer from creating a healthy lawn full of green grass.
\n\n\n\nFind out below when to water the lawn after applying the different types of weed and feed products.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-20.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent weed and feed products require water to help them penetrate the ground to be effective. You can water the grass 12 to 24 hours after application. For the best results, wait at least 24 hours before watering.
\n\n\n\nRain: The rain can help soak the herbicide into the soil. However, do not water the lawn if it rains after you apply weed and feed. Too much water can wash away the treatment.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Fertilizer-spreader-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dean Clarke / Shutterstock / License
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should use post-emergent weed and feed products when it will be dry for a few days. These products are more sensitive to watering than their pre-emergent counterparts.
\n\n\n\nWait two days before watering the lawn to give the herbicide portion of the weed and feed time to absorb into the leaves of the weeds. If watered before 48 hours, the chemicals are washed away and will not work.
\n\n\n\nRain: Be sure to check the weather forecast and pick a time to apply weed and feed when it is going to be dry for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"fertilizer](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/fertilizer-for-the-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: ronstik / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nFor granular fertilizer to work, it must be watered into the ground to release the lawn food that makes grass healthy and gives you a green lawn. If the fertilizer does not receive water, it can burn the grass if it sits on the lawn during the summer.
\n\n\n\nWait 12 to 24 hours before watering your lawn after applying granular pre-emergent weed and feed.
\n\n\n\nGrass treated with granular post-emergents should not be watered for at least 48 hours.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike granular products, liquid weed and feed does not require watering to work. And you do not have to wait as long to water the lawn. As a rule of thumb, waiting at least 24 hours is best. Too much watering can render the chemicals ineffective, so be mindful of this when you turn on the sprinklers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe chemicals in these two different types of weed and feed do not mix well. Therefore, homeowners are advised not to use both a pre-emergent and post-emergent at the same time. Here are some reasons why:
\n\n\n\n— They should be watered at different times after application.
— They should be applied at different times to work. Pre-emergents should be used in early spring. Post-emergents should be applied in the late spring.
Weed and feed is a combination of chemicals to treat weeds and fertilize the grass. The lawn fertilizer – the “feed” part – contains nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, important plant nutrients. The weed control portion can be either a pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent Weed and Feed: Pre-emergent weed and feed products have herbicides to stop weed seeds from germinating. Pre-emergent products do not kill weeds. Depending on the ingredients, pre-emergent weed and feed inhibits cell division, prevents root growth, or stops enzyme growth to keep weeds from growing in the first place.
\n\n\n\nPost-Emergent Weed and Feed: Post-emergent two-in-one products have chemicals that kill weeds that are already growing. Contact-based products kill the plant parts they come into contact with, which is typically the parts above ground. Systemic post-emergents can be sprayed on any part of the weed and are absorbed into the plant, destroying its entire vascular system.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/e7e9bd22-a137-4af7-8800-a8c9ed2b9213.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Srinuan Hirunwat / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPre-Emergent vs. Post-Emergent: If you want to prevent weeds from growing, you’ll want a pre-emergent weed and feed. A post-emergent weed and feed is best in yards already held hostage by weeds.
\n\n\n\nLiquid vs. Granular: If you want to spot-treat weeds, liquid weed and feed products allow you to target individual weeds. Granular weed and feeds use a spreader to apply to a larger area. If you have a lot of weeds throughout your yard and want to apply chemicals quickly, a granular product may be best.
\n\n\n\nGrass Type: The type of grass is also a part of the decision of which weed and feed to select. Weed and feed labels list which types of grass they can be used on and at what stage. For example, pre-emergents should never be used on turfgrass recently seeded.
\n\n\n\nSome chemicals can be used on warm-season grasses but not on cool-season grasses and vice versa. Scotts Turf Builder is an example of a weed and feed that can be used on both.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are conveniently available and can be found at many home improvement brick-and-mortar locations and online stores like Amazon. However, weed and feed can be bad for your lawn for the following reasons:
\n\n\n\n— The best time to fertilize your lawn and the best time to treat weeds are often different.
— The chemicals in weed and feed are dangerous for children and pets.
— Weed products are often only needed in specific areas, while fertilizer is required all across the lawn.
— The harsh chemicals in weed and feed can leach into the surrounding environment.
— Weed and feed can sometimes harm plants other than weeds, including grass, shrubs, and trees.
How long should you wait before mowing the grass after using weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nGive the product time to work. Wait at least three days before you mow the grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen can you aerate your lawn after applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nYou should wait four weeks after applying weed and feed before aerating your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre liquid and granular weed and feed applied differently?
\n\n\n\nYes. Liquid weed and feed products are applied using a sprayer. Granular weed and feed chemicals are disbursed using a drop-type spreader, rotary spreader, or broadcast spreader.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nShould you water your grass before applying weed and feed?
\n\n\n\nWatering the lawn before applying granular products is helpful. It can help the granules stick to the weeds. Be sure to follow the product’s instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen is it safe for children and pets to come back on the lawn?
\n\n\n\nWait until after a heavy rainfall before allowing your loved ones back on the grass. You can also water your lawn for a few days in a row to be sure the residual from the chemicals is washed away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow soon can a lawn be reseeded after applying pre-emergent herbicide?
\n\n\n\nHomeowners should wait at least 8-10 weeks after applying weed control to reseed a lawn, or the herbicide could kill the grass seeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGetting the timing right on when to water your grass after applying weed and feed will determine if the chemicals work. It will also affect whether you end up with an attractive, healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with when to water the grass takes time and effort. You could end up spending more time and money correcting your mistake if you do not get it right.
\n\n\n\n
If you prefer to let someone else handle your lawn care chores and eliminate the risk of you messing up the timing, WikiLawn can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can help control weeds and maintain your grass for an appealing, healthy lawn.
Main Photo Credit: nenovbrothers / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"When to Water the Lawn After Applying Weed and Feed ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1789c/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/107df/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/293e9/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/f2cbb/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1789c/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/c26c2/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1dd6e/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/67b76/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 320w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/8df11/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 500w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/98a65/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 800w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/1dd6e/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 960w,\n/static/86558436837abaae95cbb804d09a1484/3cc96/f7585bd1-0824-425a-aba5-552b640c3d8a-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When to Water the Lawn After Applying Weed and Feed | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn when to water the lawn after applying weed and feed so that weed seeds do not germinate, weeds are killed, and the lawn fertilizer works, too."}}},{"node":{"id":"bd23c7a6-56c1-5baf-b0d7-e3b495e7ae45","slug":"pre-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/pre-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"There’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn weeds. Don’t worry. We get it, and we got you. This article explains how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weeds from ever sprouting in your lawn again.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe timing of pre-emergent herbicide application is everything. Pre-emergents will not help you with pesky dandelions or foxtails that seem to be stalking you if they are already sprouting in your lawn. You must apply pre-emergent herbicides before the times of year when weed seeds begin to germinate.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSpring pre-emergent herbicide applications prevent summer annual weeds, like goosegrass and crabgrass. Apply when the soil temperature is about 55 degrees or higher for 48 hours or longer.
\n\n\n\nThe month or time of the month you apply weed control will be determined by what part of the country you live in since climates and weather differ according to location. That’s why it’s better to sync your herbicide applications with the soil temperature rather than a specific date. You can find a soil thermometer online or at your local gardening supply store for less than $10.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApplying pre-emergent herbicide in the early fall prevents winter annual weeds, like common chickweed and annual bluegrass. Apply when the soil temperature falls to around 70 degrees for three days or more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse the product as instructed on the package, including following the proper measurement amounts per area covered. It is also important that you protect yourself from these toxic chemicals.
\n\n\n\nProtective gear to wear when applying herbicides:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re protected, you can apply pre-emergent herbicides in one of two ways, depending on whether the product you purchased is granular or liquid.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Professional](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Professional-Gardener-with-Lawn-and-Garden-Seed-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGranules are applied by hand or via a shaker bag or spreader. A spreader is best when covering a large area. A cup can be filled with granules and then shaken out from the cup onto the lawn, but this method can take a while.
\n\n\n\nWater the lawn after spreading granules so the herbicide can penetrate the soil, allowing the active ingredients to attack the weed seeds.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Preparing-Pest-Control-Spraying-Equipment.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiquid pre-emergents come in ready-to-use or concentrated forms. If the liquid is in concentrated form, it requires mixing with water, and a sprayer is used for application. Ready-to-use pre-emergents don’t need mixing and typically come in a spray bottle or sprayer.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve been doing your homework and researching weed control solutions, you have come across both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating. They do not kill weed seeds that have already germinated or actively growing weeds.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, post-emergent herbicides control weeds that have sprouted and are growing.
\n\n\n\nA few herbicides contain chemicals that perform as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. Products with Dithiopyr are examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe active ingredients in pre-emergents are triggered when watered, which allows the chemicals to penetrate the soil. The chemicals form a barricade on the top of the soil which stops seeds from germinating. Depending on the chemicals in the product, they may stop the roots from growing, prevent seed cell division, or inhibit growth enzymes.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s important to make sure you get the right type of pre-emergent herbicide for your specific weed problem. Otherwise, you might end up hurting your lawn, too, and not just the weeds. The two categories of pre-emergent herbicides are selective and nonselective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides control specific weeds without adversely affecting other plants. Most pre-emergent herbicides used for home lawns fall into this category.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNonselective herbicides kill all plants. Because of this, nonselective herbicides are used to spot-treat specific plants rather than being applied to the whole lawn or garden. Don’t apply nonselective herbicides around the same time you seed new grass, or they will prevent the grass from growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPre-emergents should only be used on turfgrass that has been established for at least one year. Grass can be damaged if pre-emergents are applied too soon after reseeding or overseeding the lawn.
\n\n\n\nSome cool-season grasses that can be injured by pre-emergent applications after the grass has been seeded are tall fescue and ryegrass. Warm-season grasses adversely affected are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nExamples of grasses that can be damaged by pre-emergent herbicides after sodding or sprigging are the warm-season grasses St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot all weed killers kill all weeds. So, knowing the type of weed that is growing is important. Make sure you are identifying the weed correctly. Some weed killers destroy broadleaf weeds like spurge, clover, and ragweed. Others are chemically formulated to control grassy weeds, like foxtail and barnyardgrass.
\n\n\n\nAlso, knowing your grass type is important. As previously explained, certain weed killers are recommended for use on certain types of grass seed, while some come with a warning to never be used on specific grass types.
\n\n\n\nSome products are weed killers and fertilizers in one. But homeowners should only fertilize plants and lawns when they are growing actively. Therefore, using a weed and feed product may not be a good idea. Homeowners should never use a two-in-one herbicide on warm-season turfgrasses like Zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of active ingredients in pre-emergent herbicides and what grass types or kinds of plants on which they can be used safely:
\n\n\n\nAtrazine:
\n\n\n\nBenefin:
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr:
\n\n\n\nIndaziflam:
\n\n\n\nProdiamine:
\n\n\n\nWait at least eight to 10 weeks after using weed killers to reseed your lawn, or the seeds can be killed by the weed control chemicals.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal can be used on henbit in early spring to inhibit seed germination. If the seeds have already germinated, applying the meal can cause the weed to grow. Apply corn gluten meal when it is going to be dry for at least two days; roots in moist soil can absorb nutrients that activate weed growth. Monthly reapplications may be necessary.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass that is not properly maintained can result in weed growth. Lawns need to be mowed at the correct heights, fertilized regularly, and watered at the proper frequency to grow thick enough to crowd out weeds. Thin or bare turfgrass can promote weed growth.
\n\n\n\nIn gardens, new weed seeds can be introduced by mowers used on grass that had weeds. However, most weeds in gardens are from seeds that developed in previous years in the garden. Weeds can also emerge when plants are spaced too far apart.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHere are some things you can do to manage weeds:
\n\n\n\nHere are some proactive weed management tips:
\n\n\n\nWhile dinitroanilines control some broadleaf weeds, they do not control perennials, like nutsedges, for example.
\n\n\n\nHerbicides can contain chemicals that both attract and harm pets. Animals can be adversely affected by eating plants treated with herbicides and by inhaling the toxins from treated plants. Some tips to keep pets safe are:
\n\n\n\nBeing one step ahead of weeds is the only way to prevent them. If you know when weed seeds are germinating, you can apply pre-emergent herbicide to keep them from ever sprouting in your lawn. And if you prevent weeds, you’ll never have to pull them.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes down to it, weed management can be a pain. You have to keep up with a regular schedule, and if you miss just one herbicide application, you could end up with a lawn full of weeds in no time. If you prefer to let someone else manage your lawn care, we can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can keep your lawn pristine and weed-free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Henfaes / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4388489208633093,"src":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/107df/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/293e9/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/f2cbb/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/c26c2/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/67b76/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/8df11/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/98a65/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/3cc96/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Find out how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides, including examples of which chemicals prevent which weeds and answers to FAQs."}}},{"node":{"id":"f725b102-82bb-57be-a1bc-8bf8c58376b0","slug":"best-grass-types-houston","path":"/lawn-care/tx/houston/best-grass-types-houston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"656604f4-56e7-55ed-8540-cc48be40652a","name":"Houston","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/houston/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Want a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston: Bermudagrass Seashore Paspalum St. Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass 1. Bermudagrass Popular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has […]
\n","content":"\nWant a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston:
\n\n\n\nPopular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has a coarse to a medium-fine texture. Its wide leaf ranges in color from light green to dark green, depending on the cultivar (or type).
\n\n\n\nClassification: Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems).
Shade tolerance: Bermudagrass prefers full sun at all times.
Drought tolerance: High. Regular rainfall should be enough to water it. This type will go dormant during extended dry periods.
Foot traffic tolerance: Its sturdiness withstands high levels of foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: High. Bermudagrass requires monthly fertilization during the summer. Water as needed to the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Thatch buildup is a threat.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 1 to 2 inches once or twice a week to keep up with its incessant growth rate.
Also resilient in saltwater environments is seashore paspalum. Great for waterfront properties, this type is low-growing and has pointy, medium-coarse blades and a blue-green hue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Prefers full sun, but can withstand shade better than Bermudagrass.
Drought tolerance: Low. Seashore paspalum prefers very moist growing environments. Due to its high saline tolerance, you can use saltwater in irrigation.
Foot traffic tolerance: High. Seashore paspalum’s dense turf stands up well to heavy foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: Requires little fertilization throughout the growing season. Over-fertilizing can lead to scalping, which exposes the grass’s roots, opening it up to disease, stress, and stunted growth.
Recommended mowing height: For a well-manicured, dense lawn, mow to a height of 1 inch.
With its dark green color and curved, wide leaf, St. Augustinegrass is another favorite among Houstonians. This salt-resistant grass is one of the most selected options for lawns in the Houston area.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons.
Shade tolerance: Unlike most other warm-season types, St. Augustinegrass is able to thrive in shade.
Drought tolerance: Some degree of drought tolerance, but will begin to show stress during long periods of dryness.
Foot traffic tolerance: Light. Regular lawn foot traffic is no problem.
Maintenance needs: Fertilize every eight to 10 weeks and recycle grass clippings to help provide nutrients to this type of lawn. If rainfall isn’t enough, water to a soil depth of 6 inches when the grass is showing signs of dullness and stress. Over-watering and over-fertilizing can lead to thatch problems.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 2.5 inches.
Zoysiagrass is a popular choice because of its low-maintenance nature. There are many varieties, but Zoysia japonica is one of the best grass types for Houston Lawns. It has a high salt tolerance, pointy leaf blades, and a light- to medium-green color. It turns brown in early winter, going dormant soon after the first frost in November.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Moderate shade won’t bother this turf, but it does grow best in full sun and temperatures of 80 degrees or hotter.
Drought tolerance: Zoysia can withstand periods of drought, but as a dry period lingers, it will go dormant and turn brown. Once watered, it will revert to its green color once again.
Foot traffic tolerance: Zoysiagrass grows well in high-traffic areas.
Maintenance needs: Low. Fertilize with about two pounds of nitrogen a year, and water about 1 inch a week during the growing season.
Recommended mowing height: Keep mower blades sharpened to tackle these stiff leaves, and cut to a height of 1 to 2 inches weekly.
1. When is the best time to plant grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nEarly March to late May, when the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees. This is the best time for warm-season grasses to germinate and become established in time for the first frost.
\n\n\n\n2. Can I plant a cool-season grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should wait until September when the ground is a bit cooler (about 50 degrees.) Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue will give you a greener lawn in the winter, but will not do well in the heat and humidity of the summer.
\n\n\n\n3. Is there such a thing as a no mow grass for Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, buffalograss is one of the easiest grasses to care for. It’s one of the best grass types for Houston since It only needs occasional mowing and is extremely drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have the time or energy to replant or reseed your lawn, we’ll find a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg","srcSet":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/107df/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/293e9/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/f2cbb/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1ff5b/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 1290w","srcWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/67b76/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/8df11/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/98a65/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/bdec4/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 1290w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a gorgeous lawn that will stay lush and green most of the year. We list the four best grass types for your Houston lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"53e3700b-c3ef-578e-9ab5-2cbee2ccab48","slug":"cool-season-grasses","path":"/blog/cool-season-grasses/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2023","excerpt":"Not all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing […]
\n","content":"\nNot all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing guide will teach you about these grass types and the best ways to maintain them.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are grasses that grow mostly in the spring and fall in the northern regions of the U.S. These grasses include tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. They grow and thrive during cooler temperatures between 60 to 75 degrees, and they withstand extremely cold temperatures well.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are perennials. Therefore, they will come back year after year if they are cared for properly. Although they thrive in cool regions, some of these grasses are also drought-tolerant and can thrive in hotter regions. However, when it is hot, they tend to become dormant until the weather cools. Sometimes, they develop lawn diseases in extreme heat and drought.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost cool-season grasses are native to northern regions of the U.S. See the map below to find out if you live in the cool-season grass growing zone, the warm-season grass growing zone, or the transition zone, where both cool-season and warm-season grasses can thrive.
\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nHere are some states where you can expect cool-season grasses to grow:
\n\n\n\nIf you reside in one of these states, you most likely have cool-season grass growing in your yard. For more help identifying the grass your lawn is made of, you can contact your local Cooperative Extension Office.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you already know, cool-season grasses thrive in areas where the temperatures are much cooler throughout the year. Warm-season grasses, on the other hand, grow best in hot summer temperatures, so they tend to grow in the South.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow most actively in temperatures from 75 to 95 degrees. They become dormant below 55 degrees. Popular warm-season grasses include centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe most popular cool-season grass types for lawns in the northern U.S. include:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nIf your grass is a medium to dark green color and grows out of the ground as a wide blade that ends at a point, like a ribbed sword, it is likely you have tall fescue grass growing in your yard. It is a very coarse grass that grows in bunches.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type can handle drought and foot traffic well, but it is a high-maintenance grass. While it may not need fertilizer and water as much as other cool-season grasses, it will require frequent mowing because it grows pretty fast.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nWhen you have fine fescue growing on your lawn, you know it because it is a slender, green-bladed grass type that tends to wilt as it grows. It is not grass that sticks upward like tall fescue. Because it is much thinner, it has a low tolerance for foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nOn a brighter note, this grass can tolerate drought well, and you may see fine fescue in the transition zone. Another excellent quality is that this particular grass doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grasses. There are four common types of fine fescue, including creeping red fescue, Chewings fescue, hard fescue, and sheep fescue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nWhen observing your grass, if you notice that it has a moderate to dark green hue and is a thin blade with a canoe shape, you probably have Kentucky bluegrass. This grass is sturdy and can grow well in the transition zone. But it will go dormant when temperatures rise above 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nThis type of grass can tolerate high foot traffic, making it great for recreational use. However, it is also high maintenance since it needs frequent mowing and lots of irrigation.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you have perennial ryegrass growing in your yard, it tends to be pale green in color and is slender in shape and pointed as it grows. One of its best qualities is that it can stand plenty of foot traffic. It is often combined with Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type will require lots of cutting and irrigation. It will also need plenty of sun.
\n\n\n\nSo, you’ve determined that you have one of the common cool-season grasses on your lawn. That’s a great first step in improving your lawn’s health! Knowing your grass type means you can tailor your lawn care practices to your grass’s specific needs.
\n\n\n\nHere are some ways to keep your cool-season grass healthy and ensure a green lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to watering cool-season grasses, it is ideal to water less often for longer periods so that the water can penetrate the root system. Deep irrigation once a week, ensuring that the grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water, is ideal.
\n\n\n\nOnly water the grass when temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the chances of water freezing on the grass blades. Also, water the grass in the morning, preferably before 8 a.m., as watering in the middle of the day leads to excess evaporation, and evening watering may encourage the growth of lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with a proper lawn irrigation schedule – especially if you want to water the lawn early in the morning before you typically wake up – can be much easier if you install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system with an automatic timer.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nNature provides a majority of what cool-season grasses need to thrive. However, fertilizers can help make your lawn healthier and protect it. Not all fertilizers are the same, however. You must choose the right one for your cool-season grass.
\n\n\n\nIt is ideal to fertilize your lawn at least once a year, preferably in the fall. Overfertilizing your grass can damage it or even kill it, especially if you fertilize in the middle of summer when your cool-season grass is dormant.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen growing cool-season grasses, lawn aeration is also important. This is the process of taking a spike or plug aeration tool and sticking it into the soil to loosen up compacted soil. Aeration allows fresh air, nutrients, and water to penetrate deeper into your grass for better health and growth.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll only need aeration once a year, if that, and it should be done in the fall for cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nOver time, as you water, mow, and fertilize your grass, a small layer of dead and living organic matter called thatch will develop close to the soil. This can make it difficult for water and nutrients to penetrate through the soil to your grass’s roots and can also attract lawn pests.
\n\n\n\nIf this thatch buildup becomes more than one inch thick, it is time to dethatch your lawn using a dethatching rake or mechanical dethatching tool. Cool-season grasses should be dethatched in fall during their most active growth period.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nMowing will vary according to the type of cool-season grass you have in your yard or want to plant. Fine fescue doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grass types. When mowing your grass, make sure that you avoid cutting more than one-third of its height at once.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grass will grow the fastest and need the most frequent mowing in spring and fall. In summer, it’s best to allow your cool-season grass to grow as long as you’re willing to. Longer grass means deeper roots, which means increased drought tolerance. Tall grass also shades the soil and helps it retain water, which is crucial for cool-season grasses in the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nFor best results, ensure that your mower’s blades are sharp to keep the grass from becoming vulnerable to disease and pests. Additionally, make sure the lawn mower blades are clean after previous clippings so that you won’t inadvertently spread disease around the yard from infected blades.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDiseases and pests are two destructive elements that can attack cool-season grasses. Keep in mind there isn’t a one-size fits all process for eliminating disease or pests from your grass. You must identify the specific pest or disease destroying your grass to ensure you use the right fungicide or insecticide. Otherwise, the treatment won’t be effective at all.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAnother problem you may encounter is weeds. Unfortunately, they can compete with your cool-season grass for resources. Some of the most common lawn weeds affecting cool-season grasses include but are not limited to the following:
\n\n\n\nTo eliminate these weeds, you’ll have to make sure you treat them properly. Treatments include pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides will block weeds from growing in your yard. They prevent weeds from growing by interrupting the growth process at the start. Ideally, it’s good to use such herbicides when temperatures are between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Pre-emergent herbicides will do nothing to stop weeds that are already growing in your yard.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides are used to treat weeds that are currently growing in your yard. They may be liquid or granular. It is critical that you use such herbicides when it is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Following manufacturer guidelines for application is best.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDamage to your grass can be corrected when you overseed your lawn. This is the process of spreading grass in bare spots to encourage a healthier lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you have recently had a disease on your lawn or you have damaged your grass with fertilizer, adding grass seed helps fill in the thinning grass. For cool-season grasses, overseed in fall at least 45 days before the first frost.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFind specific lawn care tips for every season in this cool-season lawn maintenance calendar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses prefer the cooler regions of the Northern U.S. However, it is possible for cool-season grasses to grow in warmer climates in the transition zone.
Kentucky bluegrass is a cool-season grass that can grow in warmer regions. If it gets too hot for this grass to grow, dormancy will set in.
For cool-season grasses, the dormant period typically begins in winter when temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the year. In northern regions, this can be in the fall.
Cool-season grasses may also go dormant in summer if the temperatures stay above about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If this happens, the grass will turn brown to conserve energy, but it will spring back to life come cooler weather.
The best time to plant cool-season grasses is in the early fall when temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
If maintaining grass isn’t your favorite thing to do, consider hiring a local lawn care pro who will help maintain a healthy lawn and keep it vibrant throughout the growing season. Local pros will know how to deal with all kinds of cool-season grasses, including the specific type in your yard.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: mccawleyphoto / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/107df/cool-season-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/293e9/cool-season-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/f2cbb/cool-season-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/c26c2/cool-season-grass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/67b76/cool-season-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/8df11/cool-season-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/98a65/cool-season-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/3cc96/cool-season-grass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you live in the northern U.S., this guide to cool-season grasses can help you identify your grass type and take care of it properly."}}},{"node":{"id":"ba45de85-91e3-5ed4-bcd4-3024564b646a","slug":"lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving","path":"/blog/lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.","name":"Tina Hill","id":"05b33636-8a93-5cbe-a32e-4d72278ff06f","path":"/author/tina-hill/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f78fd5fd50db11dcceecbeb20de206e?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2022","excerpt":"A maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are […]
\n","content":"\nA maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are some tips to lawn mowing and maintenance in North Texas.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe key here is not to “scalp” your grass, meaning cut it too short. Scalping lets precious water evaporate more quickly in the Texas heat. It also stresses your grass, leaving it vulnerable to diseases and pests. Your lawn is most likely a warm-season variety like St. Augustinegrass, Zoysia grass, buffalograss or Bermudagrass. Your proper grass length depends on the variety you have.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend St. Augustine be cut 2 to 2.5 inches tall. The recommended height for common Bermuda is 1.25 to 1.5 inches tall. Zoysias should be between 2 to 3 inches tall, and buffalograss is the longest, with a recommended height of 3 to 4 inches. Look to mow the lawn about once a week during the hot season. Pro tip: mow in a different direction each time. This helps the blades of the grass stand up straight and prevent ruts. The grass will most likely be dormant from about November to early March.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/SPQeqvQ6uMk7cMElBDUFbYM1ustCr3YbH-zwCAxan81fLDKrx77uFe8taJ0ZYyDkBxGA-WdL7l9txXMvtPLIQJFTefe5HefL-zb1DKtCU59NI1FmHe7QwhTw1ifQE8LXcg\")
Don’t bag those clippings. The clippings add vital nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. As long as you mow at the proper height, the clippings will break down quickly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_11pixnio-46676-6144x4096-1.jpg\")
Sharpen the blades, change the oil and spark plugs once a year. Dull blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it, leaving it susceptible to disease and pests.
\n\n\n\nSome make a ritual out of applying weed and feed to their lawns every Super Bowl Sunday in February. This counts as “early spring” in Texas, and the grass is beginning to green up. That’s when you need to fertilize your lawn. The rule of thumb is generally between February and April. This is also the time to stop weeds in their tracks — before they ever get a firm root in your yard. You can also find weed and feed mixtures that contain fire ant killer, to keep the nasty little insects from digging up mounds of dirt in your lawn and biting you.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RlVQn9EJ-aojgCh7tRmrSbz18RBq6WSySSIjeOIaXKZFzGZ4oiV4yo0xVM45-4P97x6HMDcARpfMYt1TUuGapaqJ6uuYWqK2Zka5OdU4a9HHakvPIYiWNdxHJCQKg16tKA\")
Your lawn needs a good long drink every five to ten days, generally. Keep that in mind before you overwater the grass. Also, your city probably has ordinances or recommendations on what days you can water and what time. Use your sprinkler two times a week, and don’t water between 10 am and 6 pm. In most cases, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and hand watering are allowed any day of the week. Ideally, you water early in the morning — giving your grass a good drink of water, but allowing the droplets on the blades to evaporate over the daytime hours. This lowers your lawn’s risk of fungus problems.
The key to a lush, green lawn in north Texas is consistency over the course of the long, hot growing season. If you begin tending to it on a regular basis when it first begins to green, and maintain it through the triple-digit temperatures of the summer, and into the fall, it will reward you with beautiful, emerald green grass.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a cool-season grass survive in north Texas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue will grow better in fall and winter, but they will survive a north Texas summer. Cool-season grasses are not recommended further south where it gets much warmer.
\n\n\n\n2. Are some grass types more shade-tolerant than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass are the most shade tolerant warm season grasses for the Dallas area.
\n\n\n\n3. Is it possible to keep a green lawn year-round in Dallas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Southern blue is a hybrid turf that mixes Texas bluegrass with Kentucky bluegrass and stays green even in winter. This cool-season grass is also drought-resistant and does well in the shade. Southern blue is not recommended by south Texas.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNeed help mowing and maintaining your lawn? We can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n","title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.6204379562043796,"src":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg","srcSet":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/107df/lawn-mowing.jpg 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/293e9/lawn-mowing.jpg 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg 666w","srcWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/67b76/lawn-mowing.webp 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/8df11/lawn-mowing.webp 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp 666w","sizes":"(max-width: 666px) 100vw, 666px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"A beautiful lawn in DFW doesn't just happen. We offer tips on lawn mowing and maintenance in Dallas-Plano and Irving to help you keep your lawn thrivinging."}}},{"node":{"id":"8163e4ac-da46-5939-9869-d4112710a127","slug":"post-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/post-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Home is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent […]
\n","content":"\nHome is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent herbicide to help you get rid of it.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergent herbicides is when weeds are young and actively growing. This is when they are most vulnerable to the active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nTime of Year: Applying in the fall or late spring is best. It is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during these times of year. Perennial weeds with deep root systems are best treated in the early spring. Homeowners should be aware that herbicides are most effective on weeds that are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nTemperature: Apply post-emergent weed control when the air temperature is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil temperature is higher than 55 degrees. You can purchase a soil thermometer online or at your local garden supply store for less than $10 to check the soil temperature.
\n\n\n![\"woman](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Weed-killer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: karenfoleyphotography / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhen Not to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides before rain? Read the product label to determine how soon a treated area can be exposed to water. Some herbicides require water to be activated and kill the plant. On the contrary, rain or watering can render other herbicide products ineffective. Instead of activating ingredients, the water can wash them away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRefrain from mowing the lawn about three days before and after using herbicides so weeds can grow enough to absorb the chemicals. Be sure to protect yourself, your family, and your pets. Wear the proper clothing and keep children and pets away from the treated area until it is dry.
\n\n\n\nProtective Apparel to Wear While Applying Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nThis method allows you to target weeds specifically, not your grass or surrounding plants. It’s a good option when there is not a large infestation and/or when you’re using non-selective herbicides that can kill plants other than weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: Read the label and combine the post-emergent herbicide with water (and a surfactant, if needed) as instructed. A surfactant increases the effectiveness of herbicides by helping the chemicals absorb into the weeds better. If the herbicide does not have a built-in surfactant, the label will inform you that you must add it.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply Spot Treatments: With your mixture, spray each weed individually and thoroughly. Do your best not to get herbicide on the surrounding grass and plants, especially if you’re using a non-selective formula.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you have many weeds that have taken over your yard, a blanket treatment will allow you to treat the area more efficiently than spot treatments.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: You can use a liquid post-emergent or granular post-emergent herbicide. Mix the liquid product with water as per the label’s instructions. Use a sprayer to apply. For granules, apply using a granular spreader.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply a Blanket Treatment: Go back and forth over the entire lawn with the sprayer or spreader, applying the herbicide evenly. For granules, it will take about half an inch of water for the herbicide to be activated, so be sure to water your lawn after application.
\n\n\n\nFor any post-emergent treatments, reapply as per the product’s label to maintain weed control.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are used to treat weeds post-growth or after they are sprouting and growing.
\n\n\n\nIf you get to the weeds before they sprout, a pre-emergent herbicide can be used to prevent the weed seeds from germinating in the first place.
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr is a chemical that acts as both a pre and post-emergent herbicide, preventing weeds from germinating and killing them after they are actively growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike pre-emergent herbicides that target weed seeds, post-emergent herbicides attack plant parts, like stems, leaves, and the plant’s root system. Not all post-emergent weed killers work the same way. There are two types: contact-based and systemic.
\n\n\n\nContact-Based Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide kills only the plant parts it comes into contact with. It may take several applications. Contact-based herbicide applications typically only target the parts of plants above ground, like the weed’s foliage. It can kill the targeted parts of the plant quickly.
\n\n\n\nSystemic Post-Emergent Herbicides: Systemic herbicides kill weeds completely, even if the herbicide only comes into contact with part of the plant. The chemicals are absorbed and travel throughout the entire plant, attacking its vascular system. This method allows the active ingredients to reach and kill different parts of the plant, like the stems, leaves, and root system, killing the pesky weed.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to know that not all herbicides work on all weeds. There are both selective and non-selective post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSelective Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide targets specific weeds without harming other plants. Selective products list on their labels whether they kill grassy weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass, or broadleaf weeds, like chickweed and dandelions. You must accurately identify the weed in your yard to choose the right selective herbicide.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective Post-Emergent Herbicides: These herbicides kill all plants they touch, so a sprayer is usually used to apply non-selective herbicides to give weeds a targeted spot treatment that affects the weeds and not other plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMake sure you are correctly identifying the weeds in your yard. Certain weed killers are for specific weeds and may be ineffective on other types of weeds. The type of herbicide you choose should also be labeled for use on your turfgrass type. Otherwise, it may kill your grass along with the weeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common active ingredients in post-emergent herbicides, along with the weeds they kill and the grass types they’re safe for.
\n\n\n\nGlyphosate (Roundup):
\n\n\n\nImazaquin (Image):
\n\n\n\nForamsulfuron (Revolver):
\n\n\n\nSulfentrazone (Dismiss):
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed herbicides are pre-emergent and post-emergent products that also contain fertilizer. Several granular herbicides come with fertilizers. Make sure you are getting the weed and feed product that is best for your grass.
\n\n\n\nBut be aware of when it is best to apply the herbicide and when it is best to fertilize your grass. Because the two may not coincide, weed and feed products can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNo, they do not kill weeds that have already sprouted. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIndaziflam provides pre-emergence control for goosegrass. Fenoxaprop is a post-emergence for goosegrass. The name-brand product Dismiss also inhibits the growth of goosegrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a selective pre-emergence herbicide that can be used on most cool and warm-season grass types. Halosulfuron and sulfentrazone are post-emergent chemicals for use on most cool and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some DIY pet-safe weed killers. Some are non-toxic to humans and pets, like a salt solution or boiling water. A mixture of borax and water is considered a less harmful natural weed killer; borax is toxic in its concentrated form.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best way to treat lawn weeds is to prevent them before they occur with appropriate lawn care. This includes treating your lawn for diseases, providing the correct amounts of water and fertilizer at the recommended intervals, and mowing the lawn at advised heights.
\n\n\n\nThe next step is to catch weeds before you see them by treating them with a pre-emergent herbicide. But if you don’t have that kind of foresight and end up with weeds in your lawn, you can use post-emergent herbicides to kill them.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, you can treat weeds yourself using products from your local home improvement store or Amazon. But it can be a lot of work, especially if you end up having to hand-pull a yard full of weeds. If you’d rather leave your lawn care needs to professionals, we can connect you with lawn care pros in your area who can help with weed control and other lawn maintenance, such as mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Mihajlo Maricic / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/107df/weed-killer-spray.jpg 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/293e9/weed-killer-spray.jpg 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/f2cbb/weed-killer-spray.jpg 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/c26c2/weed-killer-spray.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/67b76/weed-killer-spray.webp 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/8df11/weed-killer-spray.webp 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/98a65/weed-killer-spray.webp 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/3cc96/weed-killer-spray.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Read to discover how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides, how they work, and which chemicals kill specific weeds."}}},{"node":{"id":"d7716a03-3aff-5a3d-b202-48c5102701b3","slug":"how-to-overseed-a-lawn","path":"/blog/how-to-overseed-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 28th, 2022","excerpt":"Rather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started. […]
\n","content":"\nRather than replacing your entire lawn, overseed those brown patches and bald spots. It’s an easy DIY project, as long as you have the right tools and a little patience. Here you’ll find precise tips on just how to overseed your lawn, the benefits of overseeding, and the best time of year to get started.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is simply spreading fresh grass seed directly into the existing lawn without tearing up the turf or the soil. It’s an excellent way to make your lawn thicker and greener. By mixing types of grass seed, you can even prolong the life of your lawn and enjoy it year-round.
\n\n\n\nLet’s face it: We all end up making twice as many trips to the home store as anticipated, looking for that one last item we forgot. Start here, gather your materials, and finish your shopping in one day.
\n\n\n\nThe first step is deciding when to spread the seeds. This is typically done in late summer or early fall, depending on if you have cool-season or warm-season grass in your yard.
\n\n\n\nLike any plant, grass seeds need to find their way to the soil to germinate. But thatch can get in the way. Thatch is the organic matter like grass and leaves that accumulates atop the soil. If you can’t see soil between your existing grass, remove the thatch with a dethatcher.
\n\n\n\nAfter dethatching, you’ll need to aerate. Spike aeration pokes holes in the solid while core aeration pokes holes and removes plugs of soil, giving your grass seed the space it needs to germinate.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: It’s unlikely you have a dethatcher or aerator hanging out in your shed. The local home supply store should have a selection to choose from. Look for rental opportunities while you pick up the fertilizer and grass seed.
\n\n\n\nIn order to help the seeds reach the soil, cut the grass to about one inch. This is likely shorter than you normally mow, so you’ll need to drop the blade.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to bag the trimmings and remove them. Again, this is all about increasing the likelihood of the new seeds making soil contact and germinating successfully. If you don’t have a way to bag the clippings, the next step will help.
\n\n\n\nRake up all of the leaves, twigs, clippings, and other debris on your lawn. It’s best if you add a little muscle to the raking process, allowing the rake tines to loosen up the soil as well.
\n\n\n\nUse a fertilizer spreader to add a layer of enriched topsoil on top of your grass. This top layer of soil is filled with organic matter and microorganisms necessary for life to develop. Topsoil makes sure the seeds have access to water, nutrients, and space to germinate.
\n\n\n\nThis layer should be about ¼-inch thick. Some grass seed mixtures include topsoil, so you won’t need to add additional topsoil and can jump to the next step.
\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time for seeding! Like most aspects of lawn care, it’s essential to know just what type of grass you’re working with. Either use the same seed as your existing lawn or a variety that compliments it. For example, overseed a Zoysiagrass lawn with Zoysia seed, or a cool-season ryegrass to add color in the winter.
\n\n\n\nRead the bag’s instructions for how much seed to apply per square foot, and fill your drop spreader or broadcast spreader accordingly. Walk the spreader across your lawn in the same direction you mow, depositing the seed in rows.
\n\n\n\nTo jumpstart growth and ensure the new seeds have what they need, use a fertilizer spreader to add a starter fertilizer appropriate for your lawn. Starter mixes are specially designed for new growth and should be applied wherever you spread the seeds.
\n\n\n\nIf your grass seed mixture already contains fertilizer, you can skip this step.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Stay away from “weed and feed” mixtures as these herbicides can damage to new growth.
\n\n\n\nNew plants always require water, and your new grass seed is no different. As soon as you finish spreading seed and fertilizer, give your lawn a good, healthy drink.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll then water your lawn lightly two to three times each day, ensuring the soil stays moist. This should continue until the new grass is as tall to established grass. Always water in the morning or after sundown so as to prevent evaporation.
\n\n\n\nYou should also look for signs of overwatering, such as puddles or squishy soil. If you notice this, stop watering right away and wait until conditions return to normal.
\n\n\n\nAlong with consistent watering, you should also stay off your grass until it has had a chance to develop. Limit foot and paw traffic until the grass has at least 1- to 2-inches of growth, and don’t pull out the mower until the new grass is similar in height to the established grass. Giving your new lawn a chance to take hold is the final step in overseeding.
\n\n\n\nWhen you overseed your lawn, you give it the ability to resist disease, drought conditions, and heavy foot traffic. A thicker lawn is also more resistant to lawn damaging insects. It also requires less fertilizer and maintenance.
\n\n\n\n1. Why mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nA shorter lawn gives the seeds a better chance of reaching the soil. It’s also important to loosen the top layer of soil and remove any dead grass or thatch, so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I prevent the birds from eating the grass seed?
\n\n\n\nAdd a layer of topsoil over the seeded areas. This prevents the birds and other wildlife from getting to the seed. If you notice birds or rabbits near the area, get a roll of burlap and place strips of it over the seeded area. Anchor the strips with tent stakes.
\n\n\n\n3. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should start to see the grass spout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. How often should I overseed my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAnnually. Most lawn care professionals recommend overseeding each year to keep your lawn coming back thicker and greener every spring. If you only see bald spots and thinning every once in a while, you can probably overseed once every two or three years.
\n\n\n\n5. Do I need to apply fertilizer when overseeding my lawn?
\n\n\n\nOnly if you didn’t fertilize in spring. Adding more fertilizer isn’t necessary, and may actually hinder your new grass seed from growing. Fertilizing just before or after reseeding will force the germinating seeds to compete with the existing grass and weeds. It’s best to wait until the following spring to fertilize.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project, but if you’d rather not spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating, we can help you find a lawn care professional near you.
Main Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan | LawnStarter
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