![\"close](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14598977033_b78e3f956c_c.jpg\")
Have you noticed dry or dead spots of grass on your lawn? Are you finding yellow patches that turn brown even though your grass is getting plenty of sun and water? Then you may need to know how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn. You can see the tiny black and white […]
\n","content":"\nHave you noticed dry or dead spots of grass on your lawn? Are you finding yellow patches that turn brown even though your grass is getting plenty of sun and water? Then you may need to know how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou can see the tiny black and white (or sometimes reddish-brown) bugs sucking the sap out of your lawn. While they don’t bite people, chinch bugs sometimes mistake hair follicles for blades of grass. That’s when you’ll find yourself scratching your head, trying to figure out how to get rid of chinch bugs in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nAdult chinch bugs are less than half an inch long with dark red or black bodies and white wings or clear wings with frosty white tips. Baby chinch bugs or nymphs are much smaller and sometimes orange. They use their pointy mouths or proboscis like a straw to suck the life out of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThere are 27 varieties of chinch bugs, four of which are common to parts of the United States. The most common chinch bug (blissus leucopterus) infests lawns nationwide, while the southern chinch bug prefers St. Augustinegrass commonly found in Texas and Florida.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re not sure if the brown patches in your yard are caused by chinch bugs or drought, check for additional signs:
\n\n\n\nChinch bug infestations can be tough to manage. Unlike some pests, they don’t die off in the cold and instead overwinter in your shrubs, bushes, and in the soil. These insects are resistant to many common pesticides. You may have to try several because your grass will not recover on its own.
\n\n\n\nChemical pesticides can be a danger for pets. So keep cats and dogs safe by following the directions on the label and keeping them out of the area until the pesticides dry.
\n\n\n\nThe easiest way to prevent chinch bugs and other pests is by maintaining good lawn care practices. Maintaining a healthy lawn keeps the chinch bugs and other lawn-destroying insects away.
\n\n\n\nRegular maintenance is just as important when trying to help your lawn recover from chinch bug damage. You’ll need to add a few extra steps to repair the lawn damage.
\n\n\n\nWhen the DIY methods and chemical pesticides fail to get rid of the chinch bug problems, it’s time to call in a lawn care professional, not only to get rid of the pests, but to repair the damage and help restore your dream lawn.
\n\n\n\nNeem oil and insecticidal soaps like Garden Safe and Safe work well. Pesticides containing carbaryl or pyrethroid such as Sevin and Orto Bugclear will also kill chinch bugs.
Yes. Fire ants, spiders, ear wigs, and wasps will help control the chinch bug population in your yard.
In the early afternoon is when you’re more likely to spot chinch bugs on your lawn.
Chinch bugs like hot, drought-like conditions and soil high in nitrogen.
Chinch bugs can infest most grass types, but St. Augustinegrass is their favorite.
Yes. Chinch bugs mistake hair follicles for blades of grass and they will often burrow under a dog’s fur, and insert their sharp mouthparts into the animal’s skin. While this isn’t life-threatening, it does cause uncomfortable itching.
Main photo credit: Jacinta Lluch Valero | Flickr | CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/107df/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/293e9/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/f2cbb/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1789c/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/c26c2/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/67b76/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 320w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/8df11/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 500w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/98a65/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 800w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/1dd6e/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 960w,\n/static/4c9d4c9acfbadb5619382e56a5e9088c/3cc96/rsz_rsz_20137696569_a87c68e6ff_k.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How To Get Rid of Chinch Bugs in Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Getting rid of chinch bugs is a cinch if you follow our simple steps to stop the invading pests from setting up camp in your lawn."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"56d927f0-5ba1-53a1-8ce5-798a8bdfd772","slug":"organic-lawn-fertilizer","path":"/blog/organic-lawn-fertilizer/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Organic lawn fertilizers are a natural and sustainable way to nourish your lawn while causing the least environmental harm. These fertilizers give essential nutrients to the soil by utilizing organic materials and natural substances, fostering healthy development and sparkling green grass. What are Organic Fertilizers? Photo Credit: melGreenFR from Pixabay / Canva Pro / License […]
\n","content":"\nOrganic lawn fertilizers are a natural and sustainable way to nourish your lawn while causing the least environmental harm. These fertilizers give essential nutrients to the soil by utilizing organic materials and natural substances, fostering healthy development and sparkling green grass.
\n\n\n![\"compost](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/compost-and-soil.jpg\")
Photo Credit: melGreenFR from Pixabay / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers are derived from natural sources and are minimally processed. They are often made up of plant material, animal byproducts, or mineral deposits. These materials decompose or compost, producing nutrient-rich substances that can be applied to lawns and gardens to offer necessary nourishment.
\n\n\n\nCompost, animal manure, bone meal, blood meal, fish emulsion, broken shell, and kelp meal are all examples of organic fertilizers. Because of their natural composition and slow-release nature, they provide a more balanced and environmentally conscientious approach to lawn care.
\n\n\n\nThere are a few essential things to consider while looking for organic fertilizers for your lawn, including:
\n\n\n\nConsidering these aspects, you can choose the best organic fertilizer for your lawn and create a healthy, vibrant, and environmentally friendly landscape. You can also get assistance from our guide on choosing lawn fertilizer to make the right choice for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers and synthetic fertilizers both have pros and cons, but how do they stack up against each other? Take a look at our comparison.
\n\n\n\n| Pros of Organic Fertilizer | Pros of Synthetic Fertilizer |
| ✓ Slow-release for longer-lasting, more consistent results ✓ Improves soil composition and microbial health ✓ Don’t pollute the soil or local bodies of water ✓ Fewer health risks than synthetic chemicals | ✓ Immediate release for faster results and quick green-up ✓ Formulated with specific nutrient formulations to compensate for individual soil deficiencies ✓ More affordable than organic options |
| Cons of Organic Fertilizer | Cons of Synthetic Fertilizer |
| ✗ Takes longer to see results ✗ More expensive than synthetic fertilizers | ✗ More likely to cause fertilizer burn or lead to nutrient imbalances ✗ Can harm beneficial microorganisms in the soil ✗ Runoff contributes to water pollution ✗ Results don’t last as long, so more frequent applications are necessary ✗ More dangerous for pets and children who might accidentally consume harmful chemicals |
Organic fertilizers use natural processes to slowly release nutrients and promote soil health gradually. On the other hand, synthetic fertilizers are manufactured chemically, containing concentrated amounts of specific nutrients quickly released into your soil.
\n\n\n\nSynthetic fertilizers provide rapid nutrient availability to plants but can also lead to nutrient imbalances, leach into bodies of water, and cause soil degradation. These fertilizers have the potential to harm beneficial soil organisms and contribute to water pollution, whereas organic fertilizers improve the soil’s structure, moisture retention, and nutrient cycling.
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers are comparatively more expensive than traditional chemical fertilizers and may take longer to give you results. But their long-term benefits and lower environmental impact make them an excellent choice for environmentally conscious homeowners.
\n\n\n\n![\"compost](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/compost-soil-near-vegetation.jpg\")
Photo Credit: schulzie / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nOrganic lawn fertilizers provide multiple benefits, making them an appealing alternative for ecologically conscious lawn owners. Let’s examine the benefits of using organic fertilizers and why going natural is the best option.
\n\n\n\nOrganic lawn fertilizers have varying NPK ratios, representing the percentage of nitrogen (N; encourages leaf growth), phosphorus (P; stimulates root development), and potassium (K; fortifies plant cells and increases disease resistance) they contain. Here are some common NPK ratios you may encounter with organic fertilizers:
\n\n\n\nConsider your lawn’s nutrient requirements when selecting an organic fertilizer, and choose a product with a suitable NPK ratio.
\n\n\n\nJust remember that organic fertilizers have lower ratios than synthetic ones because they release nutrients slowly. Understanding the NPK ratio enables you to provide the proper nutrient balance, resulting in a lush and vibrant lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to applying organic fertilizer, appropriate techniques and timing are essential. Fertilizers are best used in one to two applications for a healthy lawn, but timing differs for cool-season grass and warm-season grass.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the timing of fertilization for different grass types with our ideal lawn fertilizer schedule.
\n\n\n\nCombine organic fertilizer application with proper lawn care procedures for the best results. Mow your lawn at the appropriate height regularly, water it properly, and deal with any weed or pest problems as soon as possible. Follow our detailed guide on when and how to fertilize your lawn to do it correctly.
\n\n\n\n![\"full](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/full-compost-bin.jpg\")
Photo Credit: piotr_malczyk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nBefore diving into the best organic lawn care practices, let’s get familiar with organic lawn care. Organic lawn care refers to maintaining a healthy green lawn using natural and environmentally friendly methods. It involves avoiding chemicals, such as synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides, and instead focusing on organic alternatives.
\n\n\n\nPopular organic lawn care practices to use in tandem with organic lawn fertilizers include:
\n\n\n\nGrow the grasses that thrive in your locality without competition. For instance, cool-season grass is better for regions with cold winters and mild summers, while warm-season grass is better for regions with hot summers and mild winters.
\n\n\n\nFor an even lower maintenance and more eco-friendly lawn, ditch traditional turfgrasses altogether and plant native grasses from your region, such as switchgrass, blue grama, buffalograss, or bushy bluestem. Native grasses thrive with less irrigation, fertilizer, herbicide, and pesticide, which is better for your schedule, your wallet, and the environment.
\n\n\n\nEmbrace the power of composting by creating your own compost out of kitchen scraps or purchasing organic compost. Apply a light layer of compost to your lawn yearly to strengthen the soil, increase its ability to retain water, and enrich it with nutrients.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/17218096280_40c673bc1f_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Tony Webster / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nTo promote healthy root growth and shade out weeds, raise the height of your mower blades and cut the grass taller. Keep the grass trimmings on the lawn since they serve as an organic mulch and add nutrients to the grass. Taller grass needs less water, which is critical for water conservation.
\n\n\n\nTo promote healthy root development, water deeply but less frequently. This forces your grass’s roots to grow deep into the ground to reach the water, which makes your lawn more drought-tolerant. Drought-tolerant lawns use less water.
\n\n\n\nUse an Integrated Pest Management strategy, which emphasizes avoiding pest problems rather than eliminating them with harmful pesticides. To prevent lawn pests naturally, keep your lawn free of dead leaves, excessive thatch, and other organic matter. It’s also a good idea to attract predatory insects, birds, and other natural predators which feed on those pests.
\n\n\n\nFocus on maintaining a weed-free lawn by regularly watering and mowing at the correct height. Reduce the need for chemical herbicides by pulling weeds by hand or making your own eco-friendly homemade weed killer.
\n\n\n\nOrganic lawn fertilizers may have an upfront price greater than synthetic fertilizers. However, when the long-term benefits of healthy soil, lower environmental impact, and healthier grass growth are considered, investing in organic lawn care can result in cost savings over time.
\n\n\n\nYes, organic lawn fertilizer is suitable for all varieties of grass. Organic fertilizers are available to suit the unique nutrient requirements of both cool-season and warm-season grasses. Simply choose the proper organic fertilizer formulation for your grass type and apply it in the prescribed amounts.
\n\n\n\nYou can make your own natural lawn fertilizer from regular household items and natural ingredients. Kitchen waste, grass clippings, and mulched leaves can all be composted to create nutrient-rich fertilizer for your lawn. You may also produce compost tea by steeping compost in water and use it as a liquid fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nMost homeowners these days are environmental enthusiasts–it’s necessary in a world of climate change and spiking pollution. More and more people want to eliminate chemical-based products like synthetic fertilizers from their lawn care regimen to support their local ecosystem.
\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers are an important part of any eco-friendly lawn care routine. If you’re one of these newfound eco-warrior lawn enthusiasts, learning everything you can about organic lawn fertilizer is a good first step.
\n\n\n\nIf you find it challenging to schedule fertilizer applications properly or need clarification about picking the right organic fertilizer for your lawn, don’t worry. You can always turn lawn fertilization over to the pros. Find a local lawn care pro who specializes in “green” lawn care on WikiLawn today.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Elena Photo / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"A Guide to Organic Lawn Fertilizer","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/1789c/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/107df/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/293e9/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/f2cbb/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/1789c/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/c26c2/compost-with-pitchfork-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/1dd6e/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/67b76/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp 320w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/8df11/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp 500w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/98a65/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp 800w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/1dd6e/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp 960w,\n/static/517b9011da36a0613d7bcdb931647b65/3cc96/compost-with-pitchfork-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"A Guide to Organic Lawn Fertilizer | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"In this guide, you can explore the benefits of organic lawn fertilizer, how to choose the right one, and tips for achieving a lush, chemical-free lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"c8821141-6409-59b1-9d5a-5a8360c22227","slug":"how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil","path":"/blog/how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"March 11th, 2023","excerpt":"A great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider. In this article, we’ll cover: Why You Need to Test and Improve Your Soil […]
\n","content":"\nA great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPlant growth is impacted by the pH balance of the soil. Grass and plants can’t survive in soil that’s too acidic or has too much alkaline. The pH number ranges from 1 to 14. A level below 7 is considered acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. A measurement of 7 is neutral.
\n\n\n\nKnowing the pH of soil lets you decide what to plant and where. The results of a soil test will also indicate how you can improve plant quality. This includes adding fertilizers and other amendments.
\n\n\n\nYou can buy a soil test kit at any home improvement or lawn and garden store. Choose a kit based on what you want to learn about your soil. These kits will come with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
\n\n\n\nAt-home testing kits are accurate enough for the casual gardener and lawn enthusiast. If you’re looking for something more specific, you should consider a full nutrient analysis. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with the soil testing kit and perform the analysis.
\n\n\n\nThe testing process will vary slightly depending on the kit you purchase, but the general process will be the same.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your sample has lots of earthworms wiggling about, this means your soil already has a strong composition of organic matter.
\n\n\n\nA soil amendment is anything added to the soil to improve nutrients, water retention, pH levels, air intake, and absorption. The goal of mixing amendments into your soil is to improve the environment for healthy root growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of soil amendments:
\n\n\n\nWhile mulch can be used to improve soil properties, it is not considered an amendment since it sits atop the soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for amendments depending on what your soil test indicates. Cover crops and composted manure are great options, but not always necessary for home gardeners.
\n\n\n\nMost residential soils will benefit from one of the following common amendments:
\n\n\n\nSome gardens will require very specific adjustments and might require one of the following:
\n\n\n\nThere are three broad classifications of soil based on the rock particles it contains. Texture can be amended by adding organic matter such as compost or plant material.
\n\n\n\nGarden soil should be about 5% organic matter. Organic matter ensures the release of nitrogen is adequate to support your lawn and plants without additional fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nWhen should you add soil amendments?
\n\n\n\nAdd organic amendments in the fall, allowing earthworms to work it deeper into the ground by spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to amend in the spring, do so as soon as the soil is dry enough to work with.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is the first step to healthy and lower maintenance gardens.
\n\n\n\nWhat elements should I keep in mind when amending my soil?
\n\n\n\nFrequent testing will help you determine if your amendments are working. Once you get the soil where you want it, you only need to test every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nSamples should come from near the plant roots. This could be a specific garden bed or a tree’s root system. To assess the soil quality in your lawn, take samples from different areas based on conditions.
\n\n\n\nPhosphorus: Promotes root growth, plant maturity, and winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nPotassium: Disease resistance, drought tolerance, and plant strength.
\n\n\n\nCalcium: Improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
\n\n\n\nMagnesium: Improves plant growth and chlorophyll production.
\n\n\n\n
While testing the soil in your yard might not be an overwhelming task, amending it might. If you find yourself short on time, patience, or ideas, consider calling on a local lawn care professional. The pros know just what to do to keep your soil healthy and when to do it, allowing you to simply enjoy the outcome.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/107df/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/293e9/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/f2cbb/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/c26c2/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/67b76/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/8df11/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/98a65/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/3cc96/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Healthy soil produces healthy plants and lawns. We’ll show you how to test and improve your soil for a greener lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"8c5d3c4f-0706-52a1-a0f2-f523b637de35","slug":"how-to-dethatch-your-lawn","path":"/blog/how-to-dethatch-your-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Tanaka Muvavarirwa","id":"9b6ee454-b0ed-521f-b6c4-0850843dc6ad","path":"/author/brendalawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8cb72a46100b4d9c5fbf051a736aa16b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Are you finding clumps of dead grass and debris in your lawn? We’ll teach you how to dethatch your lawn to keep your grass green all season long. This guide contains everything you need to ensure your lawn remains thatch free. Contents: What Is Thatch How To Dethatch Your Lawn What Causes Thatch How To […]
\n","content":"\nAre you finding clumps of dead grass and debris in your lawn? We’ll teach you how to dethatch your lawn to keep your grass green all season long. This guide contains everything you need to ensure your lawn remains thatch free.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThatch is a combination of dead and living material that forms from dead stems, mulch, and plant material and clumps together over time. These clumps usually appear as thick patches on the surface of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThatch has adverse effects on your lawn, attracting pests and harmful bacteria, making your yard less drought-tolerant over time.
\n\n\n\nPower rakes are effective tools for dethatching small lawns. Use a rake with rotating wire tines to cut through clumps of grass.
\n\n\n\nFor larger lawns with a thick layer of thatch, it’s better to use a mower. Vertical mowers contain blades that are perpendicular to the grass. The verticutter will rip through thatch as you go without damaging the grass blades, minimizing the presence of thatch on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou may need to trim your yard down further than you were expecting. If that’s the case, you’ll need to overseed your grass to make up for the thin layer of grass left behind.
\n\n\n\nAeration is an essential part of lawn maintenance. Aerators dig holes into your soil, allowing your grass to breathe. Aerating your lawn reduces clumping and minimizes the presence of thatch.
\n\n\n\nLiquid dethatchers such as Nature’s Biological Dethatcher are easy to use. Simply apply the solution to the surface of your lawn, and it will break up thatch over time.
\n\n\n\nAdd compost or soil over the top of your yard to break down thatch over time and revitalize your grass.
\n\n\n\nTrowels are small hand tools you can use to dig out the thatch. They’re best for small amounts of thatch and soil buildup.
\n\n\n\nYou can save yourself time and work by preventing thatch before it occurs.
\n\n\n\n1. Monitor soil levels: Test your soil frequently for changes in the pH and alkaline levels. High pH levels are often telltale signs of excessive thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Sensible fertilization: It can be easy for an aspiring green thumb to over-fertilize their lawn. Only use as much fertilizer as you need for a healthy lawn and limit the use of nitrogen-based lawn fertilizers.
\n\n\n\n3. Reduce chemical Use: Using too many chemicals like bug spray can kill the earthworms that naturally control soil compaction. Try to limit the number of chemicals you use on your lawn.
\n\n\n\n4. Water regularly: A well-hydrated lawn prevents soil compaction, which leads to thatch.
\n\n\n\n5. Maintaining a regular lawn care routine: Make sure to mow your lawn regularly and use weed killer to eliminate weeds that can lead to thatch.
\n\n\n\nOne of the main causes of thatch build-up is over-fertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the grass to grow too quickly, often resulting in thatch.
\n\n\n\nThe type of grass in your yard may be a factor too. Some grasses are more prone to thatching, including Kentucky bluegrass, zoysiagrass, creeping red fescue, and creeping bentgrass.
\n\n\n\nDethatching your lawn is a straightforward process and will help promote the overall growth of your lawn. Make sure to include dethatching in your seasonal landscaping routine.
\n\n\n\n1. Which grass types don’t produce as much thatch build-up?
\n\n\n\nPerennial ryegrass and tall fescue tend to bunch up and don’t produce much thatch.
\n\n\n\n2. Do grass clippings produce thatch?
\n\n\n\nNo. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not cause thatch to accumulate on your lawn. In fact, the grass clippings are an excellent fertilizer and will prevent thatch because you won’t have to use a nitrogen-based fertilizer.
\n\n\n\n3. When should I remove thatch?
\n\n\n\nRemove thatch in the cooler months; late spring for warm-season grasses, early spring or late fall for cool-season grass types. Avoid removing thatch when your grass isn’t healthy, such as during a drought, as this can cause lasting damage to the turf.
\n\n\n\n4. Are there certain chemicals to avoid to reduce thatch?
\n\n\n\nYes. Fungicides, pesticides, and insecticides have a detrimental effect on your lawn. They kill microorganisms and earthworms and can promote thatch.
\n\n\n\nNot up for DIY lawn work? We can help you find a lawn care pro near you to dethatch, aerate, and mow your lawn, so you’ll have more time to enjoy it.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wikimedia | CC0-1.0
\n","title":"How to Dethatch Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4993742177722154,"src":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1789c/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/107df/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 320w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/293e9/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 500w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/f2cbb/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 800w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1789c/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 960w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/8f507/rsz_dethatcher2.jpg 1198w","srcWebp":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1dd6e/rsz_dethatcher2.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/67b76/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 320w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/8df11/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 500w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/98a65/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 800w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/1dd6e/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 960w,\n/static/b5014c321ac828dbd92d7cb6acbc1fac/2a554/rsz_dethatcher2.webp 1198w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Dethatch Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Dethatching a lawn is crucial to its health. We’ll show you how to dethatch your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"240ef13d-10c0-55ef-a3ea-abcbbb9a9bc7","slug":"lawn-fertilizer-schedule","path":"/blog/lawn-fertilizer-schedule/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"July 27th, 2023","excerpt":"Fertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the […]
\n","content":"\nFertilizer is like the fuel that your grass requires to thrive, providing it with essential nutrients to keep it alive and healthy. But fertilizer is only effective if you apply it at the right time of year when your grass is able to absorb those nutrients. Follow this ideal lawn fertilizer schedule to maximize the benefits of fertilization and enhance your grass’s growth.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide, we’ll walk you through developing the best fertilization schedule for your grass type’s specific needs. Let’s get started!
\n\n\n\nLearn about:
\n\n\n\nIllustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDifferent grass species have different development patterns, so you must customize your fertilization schedule accordingly. Always apply fertilizer during your grass’s active growth period and never when it’s dormant. Dormant grass cannot absorb nutrients, so any fertilizer you apply during dormancy goes straight to the weeds lurking in your lawn.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses and warm-season grasses grow at different times of the year, so they require different fertilization schedules, which you will find below.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, do best in regions with cold winters and mild summers. They typically grow in the northern third of the US and somewhat in the central portion of the country, known as the transition zone.
\n\n\n\nThese grasses benefit from a fertilization schedule that includes the following applications:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring, around late March and early April, is an ideal time to apply the first round of fertilizer as cool-season grasses emerge from winter dormancy. Choose a fertilizer with slow-release nitrogen for speedy green-up and healthy root development. Aim for a balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio to assist overall growth and stress tolerance.
\n\n\n\nSummer: Cool-season grasses can experience obstacles such as heat stress and restricted water supply during the hot summer months. To combat drought stress, adjust your watering plan and avoid fertilizing during periods of excessive heat. Consider using a light application of a slow-release or organic-based fertilizer with low nitrogen content in late summer, as the growth period might kick start. If your grass goes dormant and turns brown in summer, do not apply fertilizer until it greens up again.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As temperatures decrease in the early fall, cool-season grasses enter the period of their most vigorous growth. It is an ideal time for a proper round of fertilization. Use a higher potassium content fertilizer to boost root growth and improve winter hardiness and disease resistance. A balanced nitrogen-to-potassium ratio is still necessary to promote healthy growth during the growing season and prepare the grass for winter.
\n\n\n\nLate Fall: Apply a winterizing fertilizer developed specifically for cool-season grasses in late fall, at least six weeks before the first expected frost in your area, around late October or early November. These fertilizers contain a higher potassium content, which helps to strengthen the grass’s cell walls and increase its resistance to harsh winter conditions. Winterizing fertilizers also aid in the early spring green-up of grass when it emerges from dormancy.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and St. Augustinegrass prefer warmer temperatures and grow most actively in spring and summer. They begin to slow their growth in fall when the temperatures drop, and they enter winter dormancy earlier than cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nBecause they prefer hot summers, warm-season grasses grow mostly in the South. They can also grow in the transition zone, but they typically struggle in any place with severe winters.
\n\n\n\nThe best times to apply lawn fertilizer for warm-season grasses are the following:
\n\n\n\nEarly Spring: Early spring is an excellent time for the first round of fertilization since warm-season grasses emerge from dormancy and begin their active growth phase. To stimulate vigorous growth, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Look for a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer that consistently supplies nutrients over time, assuring the grass’s continuous nourishment.
\n\n\n\nLate Spring/Early Summer: Warm-season grasses grow steadily throughout the summer and may require ample fertilizing to remain lush. However, it is important to be cautious when fertilizing during this time. High temperatures and drought can stress the grass, leaving it more vulnerable to fertilizer burn. To reduce the chance of damage throughout the hot summer, use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer around the end of May or the beginning of June when the heat isn’t too extreme yet.
\n\n\n\nEarly Fall: As summer gives way to fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth. A round of fertilizer application is best done in the early fall, at least 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Use a fertilizer with a slightly greater potassium content to increase root growth and improve the grass’s winter hardiness. This application will aid in the recovery of the grass from any summer pressures and prepare it for the cooler months ahead.
\n\n\n\nDo not fertilize warm-season grass in late fall, as it is either preparing to enter winter dormancy or has already gone dormant.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about the best lawn fertilizer practices for cool-season and warm-season grass types in our guide: When and How to Fertilize Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe amount of fertilizer your grass needs can affect how many times you fertilize throughout the year. Each grass type has its own nutrient requirements, so it’s important to identify your grass type before trying to make a fertilization schedule.
\n\n\n\nFind the proper amount of nitrogen fertilizer recommended for your grass type in the table below.
\n\n\n\n| Grass Type | Application Rate Per Year |
| Bermudagrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Zoysiagrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Kentucky bluegrass | 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Centipedegrass | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Tall fescue | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Fine fescue | 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
| Ryegrass | 2-3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft |
You should never apply more than 1 pound of nitrogen to your lawn at one time. So, if your grass type requires 2 pounds of nitrogen every year, you should spread the fertilizer across at least two applications and possibly more applications of less than 1 pound. If your grass type requires 4 pounds of nitrogen annually, you will need to spread it out across four applications of 1 pound each. Don’t fertilize your lawn more than four times a year.
\n\n\n\nBase the timing of these applications on the cool-season and warm-season lawn fertilization schedules above.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/solar-panels-working-19.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Galeanu Mihai / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSoil testing is a valuable tool for optimizing your fertilizer schedule. When it comes to lawn fertilization, more than a one-size-fits-all strategy is needed. Soil testing enables you to identify nutrient deficits or excesses in your soil. It identifies the nutrients your lawn requires for its best growth, allowing you to fine-tune fertilizer selection and application.
\n\n\n\nTo perform a soil test, buy a DIY soil testing kit or send a soil sample to your local Cooperative Extension office for a more in-depth test.
\n\n\n\nThe soil test results provide essential information regarding your soil’s nutrient level. You’ll get a detailed report outlining the levels of primary nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, as well as secondary and micronutrients. The report also contains the pH level of your soil (ideally between 6.0 and 6.5), which is critical for nutrient availability at the grassroots.
\n\n\n\nBased on your soil test results, you can choose the right fertilizer for your grass, which will make your fertilization schedule even more effective.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Close-up-of-Female-Gardeners-Hand-with-Iron-Bucket-of-Granular-Fertilizer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Valerii Honcharuk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelecting the right fertilizer for your lawn can significantly impact its overall health and look. There are a few crucial aspects to consider while choosing the right fertilizer, including:
\n\n\n\nTo learn more about these factors and how they affect your lawn, see our guide to choosing lawn fertilizer.
\n\n\n\nThe type of fertilizer you select can impact your fertilization schedule. For instance, immediate-release fertilizers only remain in the soil for 4-6 weeks, so they will need to be applied more often for sustained results, while granular fertilizers remain in the soil for 6-8 weeks and will require fewer applications throughout the year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is generally recommended that you water your lawn lightly after fertilizing. Watering aids in dissolving fertilizer granules, allowing nutrients to infiltrate the soil and reach the grassroots. However, be careful not to overwater, which might wash out nutrients or lead to runoff. Plan to fertilize when the weather forecast is clear of heavy rainfall for a few days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFertilizing during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, is generally discouraged. Fertilizing during this time may result in nutrient runoff and waste. It can also encourage weeds to take over your yard while your grass is not growing. Not to mention, it’s a waste of your time, energy, and money.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic fertilizers have longer-lasting effects on your soil by far. For one, they take longer to break down into the soil, which means nutrients are released gradually over time instead of all at once. The organic content in these fertilizers also improves the soil’s texture and overall health, whereas synthetic fertilizers can actually damage the soil and kill important microorganisms.
\n\n\n\nThe tradeoff is that organic fertilizers take longer to show visible results in your grass, while synthetic fertilizers can offer a quick green-up and boost of growth. So, you have to decide if you’re more concerned about the long-term or the short-term benefits.
\n\n\n\nSee our guide to organic lawn fertilizers to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCaring for your lawn means providing the appropriate nutrients at the right time. A well-planned fertilization schedule ensures your grass receives the nutrients it requires all year, supporting healthy growth and vivid greenery.
\n\n\n\nAre you tired of doing all this on your own? Don’t worry; we are here to help. Connect with a local lawn care pro through WikiLawn to help you establish a healthy, bright lawn that will make your neighbors envious.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5463917525773196,"src":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/107df/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/293e9/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/f2cbb/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1789c/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/c26c2/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/67b76/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/8df11/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/98a65/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 800w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/1dd6e/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 960w,\n/static/f57bf0a461823f2fd0483caa825dc1ff/3cc96/Gardener-with-Push-Spreader-Fertilizing-Residential-Grass-Lawn.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The Ideal Lawn Fertilizer Schedule | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is the right time to fertilize your lawn? Learn all you need to know from our lawn fertilizer schedule, including when and how much to fertilize."}}},{"node":{"id":"8163e4ac-da46-5939-9869-d4112710a127","slug":"post-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/post-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Home is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent […]
\n","content":"\nHome is where the heart is, not the weeds. But sometimes homeowners end up sharing their space with these annoying plants. Keep reading to find out how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides to give your yard the makeover it deserves. No matter what kind of weed is growing in your yard, there’s a post-emergent herbicide to help you get rid of it.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe best time to apply post-emergent herbicides is when weeds are young and actively growing. This is when they are most vulnerable to the active ingredients.
\n\n\n\nTime of Year: Applying in the fall or late spring is best. It is easier to manage perennial weeds and several types of annual weeds during these times of year. Perennial weeds with deep root systems are best treated in the early spring. Homeowners should be aware that herbicides are most effective on weeds that are actively growing.
\n\n\n\nTemperature: Apply post-emergent weed control when the air temperature is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit and the soil temperature is higher than 55 degrees. You can purchase a soil thermometer online or at your local garden supply store for less than $10 to check the soil temperature.
\n\n\n![\"woman](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Weed-killer.jpg\")
Photo Credit: karenfoleyphotography / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWhen Not to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides before rain? Read the product label to determine how soon a treated area can be exposed to water. Some herbicides require water to be activated and kill the plant. On the contrary, rain or watering can render other herbicide products ineffective. Instead of activating ingredients, the water can wash them away.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRefrain from mowing the lawn about three days before and after using herbicides so weeds can grow enough to absorb the chemicals. Be sure to protect yourself, your family, and your pets. Wear the proper clothing and keep children and pets away from the treated area until it is dry.
\n\n\n\nProtective Apparel to Wear While Applying Herbicides:
\n\n\n\nThis method allows you to target weeds specifically, not your grass or surrounding plants. It’s a good option when there is not a large infestation and/or when you’re using non-selective herbicides that can kill plants other than weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: Read the label and combine the post-emergent herbicide with water (and a surfactant, if needed) as instructed. A surfactant increases the effectiveness of herbicides by helping the chemicals absorb into the weeds better. If the herbicide does not have a built-in surfactant, the label will inform you that you must add it.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply Spot Treatments: With your mixture, spray each weed individually and thoroughly. Do your best not to get herbicide on the surrounding grass and plants, especially if you’re using a non-selective formula.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen you have many weeds that have taken over your yard, a blanket treatment will allow you to treat the area more efficiently than spot treatments.
\n\n\n\nHow to Prepare the Herbicide: You can use a liquid post-emergent or granular post-emergent herbicide. Mix the liquid product with water as per the label’s instructions. Use a sprayer to apply. For granules, apply using a granular spreader.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply a Blanket Treatment: Go back and forth over the entire lawn with the sprayer or spreader, applying the herbicide evenly. For granules, it will take about half an inch of water for the herbicide to be activated, so be sure to water your lawn after application.
\n\n\n\nFor any post-emergent treatments, reapply as per the product’s label to maintain weed control.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are used to treat weeds post-growth or after they are sprouting and growing.
\n\n\n\nIf you get to the weeds before they sprout, a pre-emergent herbicide can be used to prevent the weed seeds from germinating in the first place.
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr is a chemical that acts as both a pre and post-emergent herbicide, preventing weeds from germinating and killing them after they are actively growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnlike pre-emergent herbicides that target weed seeds, post-emergent herbicides attack plant parts, like stems, leaves, and the plant’s root system. Not all post-emergent weed killers work the same way. There are two types: contact-based and systemic.
\n\n\n\nContact-Based Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide kills only the plant parts it comes into contact with. It may take several applications. Contact-based herbicide applications typically only target the parts of plants above ground, like the weed’s foliage. It can kill the targeted parts of the plant quickly.
\n\n\n\nSystemic Post-Emergent Herbicides: Systemic herbicides kill weeds completely, even if the herbicide only comes into contact with part of the plant. The chemicals are absorbed and travel throughout the entire plant, attacking its vascular system. This method allows the active ingredients to reach and kill different parts of the plant, like the stems, leaves, and root system, killing the pesky weed.
\n\n\n\nIt’s also important to know that not all herbicides work on all weeds. There are both selective and non-selective post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nSelective Post-Emergent Herbicides: This type of herbicide targets specific weeds without harming other plants. Selective products list on their labels whether they kill grassy weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass, or broadleaf weeds, like chickweed and dandelions. You must accurately identify the weed in your yard to choose the right selective herbicide.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective Post-Emergent Herbicides: These herbicides kill all plants they touch, so a sprayer is usually used to apply non-selective herbicides to give weeds a targeted spot treatment that affects the weeds and not other plants.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMake sure you are correctly identifying the weeds in your yard. Certain weed killers are for specific weeds and may be ineffective on other types of weeds. The type of herbicide you choose should also be labeled for use on your turfgrass type. Otherwise, it may kill your grass along with the weeds.
\n\n\n\nHere are some common active ingredients in post-emergent herbicides, along with the weeds they kill and the grass types they’re safe for.
\n\n\n\nGlyphosate (Roundup):
\n\n\n\nImazaquin (Image):
\n\n\n\nForamsulfuron (Revolver):
\n\n\n\nSulfentrazone (Dismiss):
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed herbicides are pre-emergent and post-emergent products that also contain fertilizer. Several granular herbicides come with fertilizers. Make sure you are getting the weed and feed product that is best for your grass.
\n\n\n\nBut be aware of when it is best to apply the herbicide and when it is best to fertilize your grass. Because the two may not coincide, weed and feed products can be bad for your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNo, they do not kill weeds that have already sprouted. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIndaziflam provides pre-emergence control for goosegrass. Fenoxaprop is a post-emergence for goosegrass. The name-brand product Dismiss also inhibits the growth of goosegrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a selective pre-emergence herbicide that can be used on most cool and warm-season grass types. Halosulfuron and sulfentrazone are post-emergent chemicals for use on most cool and warm-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some DIY pet-safe weed killers. Some are non-toxic to humans and pets, like a salt solution or boiling water. A mixture of borax and water is considered a less harmful natural weed killer; borax is toxic in its concentrated form.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best way to treat lawn weeds is to prevent them before they occur with appropriate lawn care. This includes treating your lawn for diseases, providing the correct amounts of water and fertilizer at the recommended intervals, and mowing the lawn at advised heights.
\n\n\n\nThe next step is to catch weeds before you see them by treating them with a pre-emergent herbicide. But if you don’t have that kind of foresight and end up with weeds in your lawn, you can use post-emergent herbicides to kill them.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, you can treat weeds yourself using products from your local home improvement store or Amazon. But it can be a lot of work, especially if you end up having to hand-pull a yard full of weeds. If you’d rather leave your lawn care needs to professionals, we can connect you with lawn care pros in your area who can help with weed control and other lawn maintenance, such as mowing and fertilization.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Mihajlo Maricic / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/107df/weed-killer-spray.jpg 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/293e9/weed-killer-spray.jpg 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/f2cbb/weed-killer-spray.jpg 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1789c/weed-killer-spray.jpg 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/c26c2/weed-killer-spray.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/67b76/weed-killer-spray.webp 320w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/8df11/weed-killer-spray.webp 500w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/98a65/weed-killer-spray.webp 800w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/1dd6e/weed-killer-spray.webp 960w,\n/static/d36c026e50c74fee1a373f4b7b33f258/3cc96/weed-killer-spray.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Read to discover how and when to apply post-emergent herbicides, how they work, and which chemicals kill specific weeds."}}},{"node":{"id":"63adb127-ed71-5bd0-8659-5015876f0e14","slug":"warm-season-grasses-guide","path":"/blog/warm-season-grasses-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"May 5th, 2023","excerpt":"Grass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy. In This Guide: What Are Warm-Season Grasses? Warm-season […]
\n","content":"\nGrass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in the southern U.S., where temperatures pretty consistently remain between 75 and 95 degrees. Warm-season grasses tend to go dormant when the temperature drops below 55 degrees.
\n\n\n\nThe most common types of warm-season grasses are:
\n\n\n\nCertain grass types similarly are common in other regions of the country.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses: These grasses typically thrive well in cooler climates of the northern United States and can withstand colder temperatures better than warm-season grasses. Some cool-season grasses also have strong drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses include fine fescues, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses: If you live in a band across the middle of the U.S., also known as the transition zone, you can choose from warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nRule of thumb: Though you have a wider range of grass choices in the transition zone, homeowners in the northern part tend to choose a cool-season grass, and if your home is in the southern part you likely would choose a warm-season grass.
\n\n\n\nif you aren’t sure what type of grass you have, contact your local Cooperative Extension office to help you learn the type of grass you have in your yard.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses include bahiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass. Here’s what you need to know about each of these warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Bahiagrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is very drought tolerant, disease tolerant, and pest-tolerant, and it’s low maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bahiagrass: Blades form in a Y shape as they grow.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass can handle a considerable amount of foot traffic but needs frequent mowing because of the seedheads that sprout from the grass. This tough flowering part of the grass can take a toll on mowers, so keep your blades sharp as possible when mowing this grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is sun loving, drought tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. The only downsides? This grass requires a lot of maintenance and treatments for some common lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bermudagrass: Your grass blades are light- or dark-colored and resemble the foot of a bird. Bermudagrass spreads by rhizomes and stolons, and you may see them creeping out of your yard toward the sidewalk.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a low-maintenance grass that is not prone to many lawn diseases. The only downside? Centipedegrass doesn’t handle foot traffic well.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have centipedegrass: This grass has a light green color and rounded blade tip. Centipedegrass spreads by stolons and has a dense look and coarse texture. Its dense, fast growth helps naturally prevent weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass looks gorgeous, stands up well to foot traffic, and is ideal in coastal areas because it handles the salty environment well. Downside? This grass will require moderate maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have St. Augustinegrass: This grass has a rich dark green color and coarse texture. St. Augustinegrass is spread by stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is very drought-tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. Additionally, it is generally a low-maintenance grass option but will require frequent mowing. Unfortunately, this grass is susceptible to lots of lawn diseases, but it does naturally resist weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have Zoysia: This grass has pointy, narrow blades. This grass can look very fine, or it can appear to be very coarse, depending on the cultivar.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a an easy-to-skim comparison of warm-season grasses, highlighting their foot traffic tolerance, drought-heat tolerance, maintenance, and disease susceptibility:
| Bahiagrass | Bermudagrass | Centipedegrass | St.Augustinegrass | Zoysiagrass | |
| Foot Traffic Tolerance | Moderate | High | Low | Moderate | High |
| Drought/Heat Tolerance | Very High | High | Moderate | Moderate | High |
| Maintenance | Low | High | Low | Moderate | Low to Moderate |
| Disease Susceptibility | Low Develops leaf spot | High Develops spring dead spot, dollar spot, large patch, leaf spot, rust | Moderate Develops large patch (aka brown patch) | High Develops gray leaf spot, take-all root rot, pythium root rot, brown patch, fairy ring | Moderate Develops brown patch, rust, dollar spot, powdery mildew, fairy ring, pythium blight |
To keep your warm-season grasses healthy throughout the year you’ll need to:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_4353671803_e0e987132b_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: sean hobson / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMowing your lawn is one of the most important lawn care and maintenance tasks. Consistent mowing keeps pests and lawn diseases at bay.
\n\n\n\nBefore mowing season starts, sharpen your lawn mower’s blades – and keep them sharp. Here’s why: Cutting your grass with dull blades can put stress on your grass, making your lawn susceptible to pests and disease.
\n\n\n\nMowing Frequency: Most warn-season grasses need to be mowed weekly, but check the details above for your particular grass type. Mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: As the growing season progresses, you will lower and raise your lawn mower’s blades to various heights. In summer, keep a higher grass height to avoid scalping and allow for more moisture to remain in your grass.
\n\n\n\nRule of Thumb: Don’t cut more than ⅓ of the height of your warm-season grass. Additionally, mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Keep your mower blades clean between cuttings, particularly if your grass has recently had a lawn disease. This will prevent the spread of disease to other parts of our grass.
\n\n\n\nIf this all seems like way too much work and you don’t want to push your lawn mower around your yard, hire a lawn care pro near you.
\n\n\n\n![\"Set](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Wikilawn-Sprinklers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEnsure that your warm-season grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water from a combination of rain and your sprinkler system. Note and abide by any local watering restrictions.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Ideally, water your grass before 8 a.m. This will minimize the growth of disease and water from evaporating during warmer parts of the day before it penetrates the soil. Avoid watering in temperatures below 40 degrees, as this could damage the grass.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you want your grass to have a strong root system, water for longer periods less frequently.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollarweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dollarweed-also-called-floating-pennywort-water-pennywort-Indian-pennywort-marsh-penny-thick-leaved-pennywort.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dariusz Kowalczyk / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds are another problem that could spring up in your lawn. How weeds damage your lawn: Weeds compete for nutrients that your grass needs.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying the weed (or weeds) in your yard is the starting point for treatment.
\n\n\n\nWith warm-season grasses, you may come across warm-season weeds, which include the following:
\n\n\n\nYou will need to treat these and other types of warm-season weeds with either a pre-emergent herbicide or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides attack weeds below ground before they germinate, blocking weeds from sprouting. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees and in fall when temperatures are around 70 degrees.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are a spray-and-shoot option to get rid of weeds you see on your lawn. Apply post-emergent herbicides in summer (or whenever dandelions take up residence in your yard).
\n\n\n\nYou can also get rid of weeds by pulling them up by hand. Wear garden gloves to keep your hands from getting dirty.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApply fertilizer to feed your grass by giving the soil the nutrients it needs to help grass grow and maintain a healthy green color.
\n\n\n\nSomething as simple as grass clippings can fertilize your grass, but you also may want to apply synthetic fertilizers for vibrant and healthy grass throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Every four to six weeks and even longer between fertilizing if you use slow-release fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: The most important thing is that you don’t over-fertilize your grass because this could kill it and leave patches throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAeration minimizes soil compaction and is another way to ensure your grass and soil get all the needed nutrients, particularly air. How to aerate your soil: You can use an aeration tool, aeration shoes, or a spike to poke holes in the ground, loosening compacted soil and letting in more air.
\n\n\n\nTiming: For warm-season grasses, it’s best to aerate your lawn in summer.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Aerate once a year for highly compacted soil types such as clay. However, if you have a sandy soil type, you may need to aerate your soil only every three years.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf a small layer of dead and living organic matter builds up at the base of your grass, close to the soil, that is called thatch. This can make it hard for your grass to breathe.
\n\n\n\nWhat is dethatching? You must clear away this debris with a dethatching tool such as a rake or a mechanical tool.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: You should dethatch your grass at least every five years or when thatch gets thicker than 1 inch.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your lawn is prone to thatching, check for thatch annually.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTwo of the most damaging threats to your grass are lawn pests and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nGrubs, for example, will feed on your grass until they become mature adults unless you treat them with pesticides. Grubs are the white larvae you see on your grass from beetles that may have infested your yard in the previous season.
\n\n\n\nYour grass also may be damaged by lawn diseases. Some lawn diseases attack the root, while others attack the leaf blades of your grass.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to identify the lawn disease before applying a fungicide to eliminate the problem. Otherwise, applying the wrong treatment could create even worse problems.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverseeding fills in patches and makes your lawn thicker and stronger. A patchy lawn can be the result of scalping or the result of some lawn disease or pest (armyworms, for example).
\n\n\n\nHow to overseed your lawn: It’s best to overseed warm-season grasses with a cool-season grass such as perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Overseed your warm-season grass in mid-October to mid-November. This ensures your overseeded grass remains moist. By the time spring comes around, your lawn’s patches should be slowly disappearing as overseeded areas start to bloom.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to pests, you may also start to see weeds more frequently in mid to late summer. As you see weeds, spot-treat them with a post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nYes. It is possible to plant warm-season grasses in cool regions. However, since they thrive in temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, they will go dormant and turn brown when it gets too cold for these grasses. Once it warms up again, they will turn green.
No. Both warm- and cool-season grasses are susceptible to lawn diseases. They just may succumb to lawn disease at different times of the year.
For example, cool-season grasses may develop lawn diseases in summer, while warm-season grasses develop lawn diseases in late all through early spring.
Yes. Warm-season grasses tend to be more drought-resistant than many of the cool-season grasses. Also, note that some warm-season grasses are more drought-resistant than others.
Not every homeowner has a green thumb when it comes to taking care of grass. There are many rules to abide by to keep your warm-season grass looking its best.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather not spend hours on yard work every week, turn over this task to a local lawn care pro who can regularly maintain your grass.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n","title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.444043321299639,"src":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/107df/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/293e9/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/f2cbb/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/c26c2/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/67b76/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/8df11/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/98a65/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/3cc96/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season grasses are best suited for the warmer climate across the southern U.S. We’ll show you how to care for Zoysia and other warm-season grasses."}}},{"node":{"id":"7ad4a3c8-8bbd-5521-bdeb-7e479ce66c55","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-mushrooms-in-your-yard","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-mushrooms-in-your-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 30th, 2022","excerpt":"Unlike delicious mushrooms in your marinara sauce, the fungi growing on your lawn could make your kids and pets sick. They could also trigger an allergic reaction. So how do you get rid of mushrooms in your yard? You can pull them up, use natural methods, or resort to chemicals. This guide explores ways to […]
\n","content":"\nUnlike delicious mushrooms in your marinara sauce, the fungi growing on your lawn could make your kids and pets sick. They could also trigger an allergic reaction. So how do you get rid of mushrooms in your yard?
\n\n\n\nYou can pull them up, use natural methods, or resort to chemicals. This guide explores ways to eliminate mushrooms and keep them from coming back.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nYou can avoid using harmful chemicals on your lawn with these natural methods.
\n\n\n\nYou can hand pick all the mushrooms and toss them in the trash. It’s important to wear gloves to avoid an allergic reaction, and it’s crucial that you dispose of them immediately. Put them in a plastic bag, as even carrying them across the yard to your garbage can spread the mushroom spores onto other parts of the lawn.
\n\n\n\nVinegar works after you’ve removed the mushrooms by hand. We’re not talking about the vinegar in your pantry, but rather a concentrated horticultural vinegar (a good alternative to glyphosate) that you will have to dilute.
\n\n\n\nMix one part white vinegar with four parts water in a spray bottle and coat the mushrooms. Wear gloves when you spray this solution onto the area, because vinegar can burn your skin.
\n\n\n\nBaking soda won’t burn your hands, but you must dilute it so it won’t burn your grass. Mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour lightly over the mushrooms and in the area where the lawn fungi may be living.
\n\n\n\n![\"Chemical](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_screenshot_12.jpg\")
When natural methods don’t do the trick, you may have to use stronger chemical treatments to keep the mushrooms out of your yard.
\n\n\n\nFungicides stamp out mushrooms at the source. They don’t kill mushrooms but rather eliminate the fungus. Most fungicides such as Lustre or Spectrum work by destroying fungal cell membranes to stop them from producing.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll still have to hand pick the mushrooms before you apply the fungicide to the area, but they will keep the mushrooms from coming back. Therefore, it’s a good idea to remove the mushrooms first. You may have to use the fungicide several times to get the desired results.
\n\n\n\nThe same nitrogen fertilizer you use on your lawn is great for preventing mushrooms. It doesn’t kill the fungus, but it speeds up organic decomposition. Therefore, mushrooms won’t have an opportunity to grow on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nSpray a solution of dish soap and water to disrupt the lifecycle of the fungus that’s growing underneath the mushrooms you removed.
\n\n\n\nRemoving the mushrooms from your yard is only half the battle. The fungus that causes the mushrooms is still present in the soil. Here are seven ways to minimize the fungus and keep new mushrooms from growing.
\n\n\n\n![\"Mushroom's](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_frank-eiffert-_zsw5aeb4ee-unsplash.jpg\")
Like plants, mushrooms are the “flowers” or fruiting bodies that result from the hyphae or fungus in your lawn’s soil. If you don’t remove the mushrooms immediately, they will reproduce by spreading spores around your yard via air or pests.
\n\n\n\nSome common reasons you are starting to see more mushrooms growing in your yard?
\n\n\n\nDon’t automatically assume mushrooms in your yard are a threat. There are very few poisonous mushrooms that can grow on your property, but even the non-toxic mushrooms are unsightly and a magnet for dogs who like to dig.
\n\n\n\nThey can be. The destroying angel and the autumn skullcap are two fatal types of mushrooms that could grow on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThe destroying angel mushroom is white with a white stalk and white gills that could turn green or grayish as the mushroom matures. The autumn skullcap has a yellow-brown tint on its cap and brownish gills.
\n\n\n\nNo, unless you’ve purchased mushroom plants from the store and are growing them in your vegetable garden. Unless you’re an expert at identifying wild mushrooms, it’s best to toss the mushrooms you find in your yard.
\n\n\n\nYes. Mushrooms are a sure sign your soil is healthy and has the nutrients for other plants, trees, and flowers. Some plants will actually benefit from the fungus in the soil.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or find it gross to remove the mushrooms from your yard? We can find a lawn care pro near you to remove them and keep the fungus at bay. They can also mow, weed, edge, and dethatch to keep the mushrooms from coming back.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Pixabay | Michal Jarmoluk
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Mushrooms in Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1789c/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg","srcSet":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/107df/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 320w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/293e9/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 500w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/f2cbb/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 800w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1789c/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 960w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/c26c2/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1dd6e/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/67b76/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 320w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/8df11/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 500w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/98a65/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 800w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/1dd6e/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 960w,\n/static/e0421b908bd33afd56f2b8a9e75e9c6c/3cc96/rsz_mushrooms-g66ac431a3_1920.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Mushrooms in Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Unsightly and sometimes dangerous, we’ll tell you how to get rid of mushrooms in your yard."}}},{"node":{"id":"17457154-501f-5fec-a746-d6ffe7372caa","slug":"how-to-keep-rabbits-out-of-yard","path":"/blog/how-to-keep-rabbits-out-of-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Rabbits can cause a lot of damage to your lawn and garden pretty quickly. There are a lot of ways to keep rabbits out of your yard, including natural deterrents, store-bought remedies, and preventative measures. In this article, we’ll talk about solving the big problems caused by these small animals. Table of Contents: Natural Methods […]
\n","content":"\nRabbits can cause a lot of damage to your lawn and garden pretty quickly. There are a lot of ways to keep rabbits out of your yard, including natural deterrents, store-bought remedies, and preventative measures.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll talk about solving the big problems caused by these small animals.
\n\n\n\nTable of Contents:
\n\n\n\nYou likely have a lot of products in your home right now that should help keep bunnies away and minimize your rabbit problems.
\n\n\n\nDue in part to their strong sense of smell, rabbits will keep away from all three of these substances. Sprinkle any of these on their favorite plants, and they’ll steer clear.
\n\n\n\nThis tried and true method takes just a little prep work and offers non-toxic protection. Take a bar of Irish Spring and shave it using a cheese grater or something similar. Place the shavings into small mesh pouches and place them throughout your flower or vegetable garden.
\n\n\n\nRabbits don’t like the pungent smell or taste of these crops. By planting these around tastier veggies, such as carrots and lettuce, you can create a barrier to dissuade bunnies. Asparagus, rhubarb, leeks, and tomatoes are also viable options.
\n\n\n\nPlant flowers that rabbits naturally dislike. Geraniums, wax begonias, vincas, and salvia also make the list of unappealing plants while adding color and vibrancy to flowerbeds.
\n\n\n\nIt’s important to note that a hungry rabbit will eat what it can find, and not all rabbits have the same tastes. While these options are likely to work, They certainly aren’t a guarantee.
\n\n\n\n![\"Deter](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_rabbit-1543716_960_720.jpg\")
If you’re headed to the home supply store, you’ll find lots of options to repel rabbits and protect your lawn and garden.
\n\n\n\nThe most effective way to protect your garden and vegetation is by building a fence, and it’s something you can probably DIY in an afternoon. Keep in mind: Rabbits can jump about 2 feet high and squirm through tight spaces. You need to consider this when installing your fence.
\n\n\n\nChicken wire or mesh with openings of less than an inch work best. You can also use hardware cloth if you prefer. The fencing needs to be at least 2 feet high and either secured closely to the ground or inset by about 2 inches. This will prevent burrowing critters from sneaking in underneath.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1img_1665.jpg\")
Various sprays, powders, and additives are available to keep all garden pests at bay. It’s crucial to read the packaging carefully and follow the directions for how much to apply, where, and when.
Dried blood meal is another option, but you’ll need to reapply it after each rain. Similar to many of the natural ways noted above, rabbits may become accustomed to these remedies. You may want to rotate the products you use.
A final option is live trapping. This isn’t for everyone, and it may not be viable depending on where you live. However, this humane option may be your best bet.
\n\n\n\nPlace traps near popular food sources. You can also add a carrot, apple, or lettuce inside the trap as bait. Check the traps daily. Release trapped rabbits in safe areas several miles away to prevent them from finding their way back.
\n\n\n\nNote: Traps don’t discriminate, and you may find yourself with a variety of other animals as well.
\n\n\n\nThe easiest way to deal with any problem is to prevent it in the first place. You can keep rabbits out of your yard by eliminating areas for them to shelter. This, combined with the other remedies noted above, will be your most effective plan.
\n\n\n\nRabbits aren’t picky about where they burrow and nest, as long as it provides warmth, cover, and quick access to food sources.
\n\n\n\nDeer, chipmunks, moles, groundhogs, opossums, and about a dozen other animals could be responsible for the damage to your yard. Before getting started with rabbit-focused solutions, inspect the damage to ensure rabbits are the cause.
\n\n\n\nRabbit damage to trees and shrubs will be within 2.5 feet off the ground, as that’s about as far as the critters can reach when standing on their hind legs. Most telling are the smooth, straight cuts. Other animals leave jagged edges on plants, but rabbits will leave sharp edges on flowers, branches, and vegetables.
\n\n\n\nIf the damage you’re inspecting is to ornamental grasses and plants, it’s probably not a rabbit problem.
\n\n\n\nLike other wild animals, rabbits increase the presence of endangered birds and insects. However, in the process, rabbits damage many of the plants you’ve spent a lot of time nurturing.
\n\n\n\nRabbits aren’t picky eaters, and so they will destroy almost any plant they can reach. Grasses are a primary food source for rabbits, but they also enjoy flowers, weeds, sprouts, vegetables, fruits, and even bark.
\n\n\n\nWithout intervention, rabbits will nest, nibble, reproduce, and wreak utter havoc.
\n\n\n\n1. Are rabbits dangerous or just annoying?
\n\n\n\nRabbits are just annoying. They don’t pose any harm to humans, and most domestic pets are seen as predators.
\n\n\n\n2. What is the most effective way to get rid of rabbits?
\n\n\n\nYour best bet is a combination of exclusion practices and repellents or fencing. If you’re raising a vegetable garden, sound fencing is key. If you’re growing flowers or trying to protect your landscaping, repellents should do the trick..
\n\n\n\n3. What is the fastest way to solve my rabbit problem?
\n\n\n\nRemove their nests and burrows. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk. In the afternoon, when you’re likely to be doing yard work, rabbits will be lying low in their dens.
\n\n\n\n4. Are cottontails the same as domesticated rabbits?
\n\n\n\nNo. Cottontails are wild animals that cannot be bought or sold as pets. Domesticated bunnies come in various breeds, most of which look nothing like the cottontails in your yard.
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve had enough cottontails in your garden, it might be time to call in a lawn care or pest control professional to help. Give the rabbits the boot and get back to enjoying your outdoor space.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Brenda Stuart | Wikilawn
\n","title":"How to Keep Rabbits Out of Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.2917115177610334,"src":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1789c/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/107df/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 320w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/293e9/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 500w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/f2cbb/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 800w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1789c/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 960w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/c26c2/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1dd6e/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/67b76/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 320w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/8df11/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 500w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/98a65/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 800w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/1dd6e/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 960w,\n/static/6fac430a5341d044479aa3312813be34/3cc96/rsz_rabbit-in-garden-.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Keep Rabbits Out of Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Those delightful, darling rabbits are downright destructive to your lawn. Find out how to keep rabbits out of your yard for good."}}},{"node":{"id":"dd5a3904-c694-51ab-a8c7-a53464c5d1bc","slug":"what-is-summer-patch","path":"/blog/what-is-summer-patch/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 15th, 2022","excerpt":"Summer patch resembles drought-stressed grass, but this lawn disease needs more than water to cure it. In this article, we’ll cover what summer patch is and how you can stop this disease from destroying your lawn. Contents: How to Identify Summer Patch What Causes Summer Patch? What Grass Types are Most Susceptible to Summer Patch? […]
\n","content":"\nSummer patch resembles drought-stressed grass, but this lawn disease needs more than water to cure it. In this article, we’ll cover what summer patch is and how you can stop this disease from destroying your lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nSummer patch is a root-destroying lawn disease that causes round patches of discolored grass. Summer patch can occur through the summer when soil temperatures rise above 65 degrees.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms of summer patch:
\n\n\n\nSummer patch thrives in warm, humid conditions, but these four factors make your lawn vulnerable to this fungus:
\n\n\n\nLow-cut grass makes your lawn susceptible to summer patch and other diseases. If you cut your grass blades more than one-third of their length when mowing, you risk “scalping” your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a tangled mass at the grass roots that makes it hard for the soil to get fresh air or sunlight. Thatch’s dark, moist conditions start to breed various types of fungi, one of which is Magnaporthe poae, which forms the disease summer patch.
\n\n\n\nToo much nitrogen fertilizer in your soil during the summer contributes to summer patch. Nitrogen fertilizer can burn and kill the grass. This partially dead grass makes the soil ripe for developing a pathogen like summer patch.
\n\n\n\nToo much water stresses your lawn, and the excess moisture can encourage the growth of summer patch.
\n\n\n\nWhile numerous stress factors lead to summer patch, sometimes the grass itself can be the problem. Summer patch is most common in Kentucky bluegrass, annual bluegrass, and fine fescues.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass and annual bluegrass are cool-season grasses. Planting them in warm regions makes them vulnerable to summer patch.
\n\n\n\nFine fescues are adaptable to many climates. These soft grasses are drought-resistant. Despite their versatility, they are susceptible to summer patch.
\n\n\n\nBrown patch is very similar to summer patch and sometimes mistaken for it. Summer patch attacks the roots of the grass, while brown patch attacks the leaf blades. Treatments for each are very different.
\n\n\n\nYou need to determine if your yard is suffering from summer patch, brown patch or some other lawn disease before beginning a treatment plan. Below is a chart of some of the most common lawn diseases and the patterns they create on your grass.
\n\n\n\n| Summer Patch | Brown Patch | Dollar Spot | Necrotic Ring Spot |
| Develops a circular formation on your lawn that’s yellow or orange. | Similar to summer patch but forms brown circular patches. | Develops circles that look like drops of bleach on your lawn. | Forms full ovals. |
If you can’t determine which pathogen is infecting your lawn, don’t resort to a spray and pray method. The wrong treatment won’t fix the disease and could make it worse.
\n\n\n\nInstead, send a sample of your grass to your county extension office to have them determine what disease is present, so you’ll know how to treat it.
\n\n\n\nLeft untreated, summer patch disease can destroy the root system of your entire lawn. Here are a few ways to eliminate this lawn fungus.
\n\n\n\nHere are some ways to prevent summer patch from infecting your lawn:
\n\n\n\nYes. Summer patch is much more common in regions with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees.
\n\n\n\nYes. Spraying a proper fungicide two to three times over the course of 28 days should eliminate the summer patch. Then you can refill the missing or dead areas of grass with fungus-resistant grass seed.
\n\n\n\nNo. In fact, adding a nitrogen-based fertilizer in the heat of summer will only encourage the summer patch to spread.
When you fertilize in September or October, use a phosphorus- and potassium-based fertilizer that will lower the pH level of your soil.
Not sure if your lawn is suffering from summer patch or another lawn disease? We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who can bring your grass back to life.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Scot Nelson | Flickr | Public Domain
\n","title":"What is Summer Patch?","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1789c/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/107df/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 320w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/293e9/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 500w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/f2cbb/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 800w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1789c/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 960w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/c26c2/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1dd6e/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/67b76/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 320w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/8df11/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 500w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/98a65/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 800w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1dd6e/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 960w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/3cc96/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What is Summer Patch? | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is summer patch? Those circular brown patches on your lawn could be summer patch. We’ll identify and get rid of this lawn disease."}}},{"node":{"id":"40e62fa1-78b2-5e3f-badb-a12f7e359f03","slug":"ten-pet-safe-weed-killers","path":"/blog/ten-pet-safe-weed-killers/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Removing weeds by hand is time consuming, and many weed killers are dangerous to pets who come into contact with them. Here are 10 pet-safe weed killers that will squash those pesky weeds while keeping your furry friends healthy and happy. Contents: 5 Commercial Pet-Safe Weed Killers 5 DIY Pet-Safe Weed Killers Dangers Of Herbicides […]
\n","content":"\nRemoving weeds by hand is time consuming, and many weed killers are dangerous to pets who come into contact with them. Here are 10 pet-safe weed killers that will squash those pesky weeds while keeping your furry friends healthy and happy.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nMost of the products we’ve picked are certified by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI), a nonprofit group that reviews and certifies organic products.
\n\n\n\nHere are our top five picks for pet-friendly herbicides you can buy online or in most home improvement stores.
\n\n\n\nGet Sunday’s Weed Warrior is certified organic by the USDA and made with OMRI-listed ammonium soap and fatty acids. It’s a non-selective weed and grass killer, meaning it will kill all weeds.
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nOMRI certified as an organic weed killer, Green Gobbler is designed to kill both weeds and the grass growing between sidewalk cracks and pavers. It works on all types of weeds, including dandelions and crabgrass.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nDoctor Kirchner Natural Weed & Grass Killer is a biodegradable weed control that’s made from ocean salt water, vinegar, and soap. The University of Florida found Doctor Kirchner Natural Weed and Grass Killer to be effective in eliminating more than 250 common weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nMade with salt water and concentrated commercial grade white vinegar, Natural Elements is glyphosate-free. It’s effective against common weeds like clover, dandelions, chickweed, crabgrass, thistle, and broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPreen Weed Preventer is a pre-emergent weed control, meaning it stops weeds before they sprout, so you have to think ahead and apply it before you see the first weed. It’s safe to use around pets, established flowers, trees, shrubs, and vegetables. It is made from corn gluten meal and does not contain glyphosate.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA good rule of thumb is to keep your pets off the lawn for 24 hours after applying both pre-emergents and weed killers. Many of these products dissipate with water, so to be certain it’s safe, water your lawn the next day before letting your kids, cats, and dogs play on it.
\n\n\n\nPet parents can make several homemade pet-safe weed killers and avoid exposing their dogs and cats to harsh chemicals.
\n\n\n\nMake a weak solution with three parts water and one part salt. Dissolve rock or table salt in water and pour it into a sprayer. A shot of dish soap will increase its effectiveness.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPour boiling water over the weeds. Cover the area with cardboard or a tarp for four to six weeks to prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nLayer a cup of sugar around the base of the weeds, making sure to cover the area surrounding the roots. You may need to reapply another cup in a few days if the weeds are persistent.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nMix 1-cup of borax powder and 2 gallons of warm water in a sealable container. Stir until dissolved and let it rest for at least an hour before pouring it into a spray bottle. Apply it directly to the weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nBoil 2 cups of water and add 10 drops of clove essential oil. Mix well, let cool, and pour into a spray bottle to treat weeds. Sunlight decreases the efficacy of clove oil, so it’s best to spray weeds after sundown.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nUsing the wrong products while trying to kill weeds could cause serious harm to your four-legged friends. A common active ingredient in chemical weed killers, like Roundup, is glyphosate which is a toxin often overlooked by pet owners.
\n\n\n\nA Purdue University study concludes that common lawn and garden chemicals may increase the risk for cancer in dogs. Those chemicals include dichlorophenoxyacetic acid and 4 -chloro-2.
\n\n\n\n1. How long does it take for my pet to show signs of poisoning?
\n\n\n\nTwo to 36 hours, depending on how much your pet ingested.
\n\n\n\n2. How long does it take for weed killer to dry?
\n\n\n\nSome products dry within 3 hours, however, it’s best to wait for at least 24 hours before allowing pets or people into the treated area. Humidity can affect drying time.
\n\n\n\n3. What do I do if my pet comes in contact with poisonous weed killers?
\n\n\n\nVeterinarians recommend you separate your pet from the poison, make a note of the weed killer they ingested, and contact your vet.
\n\n\n\n4. My vet is closed. What should I do?
\n\n\n\nCall ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435) and the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661) for expert advice or contact your local 24-hour emergency vet.
\n\n\n\n
Got a yard full of weeds but little time to get rid of them? We can help you find an eco-garden pro or lawn care professional who can handle the problem while you and your furry friend relax.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel
\n","title":"10 Pet-Safe Weed Killers","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/1789c/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/107df/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg 320w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/293e9/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg 500w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/f2cbb/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg 800w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/1789c/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg 960w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/c26c2/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/1dd6e/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/67b76/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp 320w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/8df11/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp 500w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/98a65/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp 800w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/1dd6e/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp 960w,\n/static/b1ee74c3e342e5f9c98c06a0595ef1a2/3cc96/rsz_image-from-rawpixel-id-6022016-jpeg.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"10 Pet-Safe Weed Killers | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Keeping your lawn beautiful and weed-free while protecting your pet’s health can be a challenge. We’ll look at 10 pet-safe weed killers."}}},{"node":{"id":"3dfa6e5c-df1e-5ed7-8606-0a7e6a31e947","slug":"hardscaping-guide","path":"/blog/landscaping/hardscaping-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"June 6th, 2019","excerpt":"What is Known as ‘Hardscaping’ in Landscape Design? Landscape Architects and others in the field of landscape design often use the terms “softscape” and “hardscape” to distinguish between plants (soft) and rock or soil work and all the other “hard” elements of landscaping. A simple definition of “hardscape” is anything in the landscape that is […]
\n","content":"\nLandscape Architects and others in the field of landscape design often use the terms “softscape” and “hardscape” to distinguish between plants (soft) and rock or soil work and all the other “hard” elements of landscaping. A simple definition of “hardscape” is anything in the landscape that is not plantings, soils, or earth works.
\n\n\n\nAt first thought, it might seem counterintuitive to think of ‘hard’scaping as a wanted element in an environment designers often take great pains to keep natural and soft. So, why would this seemingly contradictory intrusion into the world of soft and floral be a critical part of any landscape design?
\n\n\n\nHardscaping provides many added benefits beyond what plant and soil materials can accomplish on their own. Here are just a few of those reasons:
\n\n\n\nHardscaping can be thought of as the bones, or framework, of a garden. It could be sleek flagstone patios, pebble mosaics, brick or rustic gravel walkways; perhaps a uniquely shaped boulder placed as a focal point in the garden or near a building to highlight architectural features. Natural stone, retaining walls, benches, seats, and sculptural landscape features, create the immovable structure through which designers (or handy diy homeowners) can easily weave in combinations of trees, plants, and shrubs into the garden tapestry.\t
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/vI5P4UK5F84BcIDNhjLqQ6YAtkz4edCDUKLCUqtxAx9HusAf638NFDYCWcejX9XyhgWiEm8_fgDbGREno7GdUyu_5C3xtuk5oRkfclVXuBmyxx4fh-SJBUiBUTGwC0SPSkpNSC2iKFvhFzSQpg\")
Just as any good landscape designer should draw plant choices from the natural surrounding landscape, hardscape selection should also relate to the native environment as well as the style of house. For example, a colonial or Georgian house would benefit from the addition of brick or cut stone to add formality. A farmhouse in the countryside would combine well with fieldstone walls and paths of flagstone or flat river stones set in gravel. A Craftsman-style house in the city might call for a pattern of square and rectangular stones, and walls of cut or ashlar stone, or brick.
\n\n\n\nArcheticulally speaking, a good hardscape plan can help you divide the landscape into a collection of “rooms” or sequence of gardens. This is a timeless method of design as it provides separate spaces for different activities and a sense of surprise and thrill of discovery in moving from ‘room to room’. Stone walls and hedges act as room dividers, and steps and paths act as transitions between these rooms, as well as the necessary means of moving between them.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/PjLwfGpF64k02uPCOeQV1swJX_fW93HGpyXz5gVRb3MrDevpvdLtAfkdak97rmwql0_onwcMl8cRMUvhIEnEGtcdlXZ1Tl8agxeqN1FCzziGcZSTA_j5_waIvQWSGm8a99tRAJh9pvElObm4jA\")
How a patio or terrace will be used in part should dictate your choice of paving material. Flat stones with mortared joints or sand-set brick are preferable for areas to close into the house, entries, and higher traffic areas. Irregular, dry-laid stones, crushed rock or packed decomposed granite are great for garden paths and casual areas. Dining areas or a seating terrace can be on stone, gravel or crushed rock, or wooden decking, depending in part on the furniture chosen for that use.
\n\n\n\nBesides needing to harmonious with the colors found in the landscape plantings and architectural features, the color of your hardscape elements can play an important role. Light colored stone may help to brighten a shady corner but could also create glare in a sunnier spot. Dark stone materials might absorb too much heat for nearby planting materials.
\n\n\n\nThe level of permeability a material has may matter more in some locations than others. A lava rock boulder, with its open honeycomb-like surface, would collect every fallen leaf and flower blossom if it were placed below a flowering ornamental tree. This might not be a bad thing, depending on what aesthetic you are going for or what level of garden maintenance you are willing to put into your landscape.
\n\n\n\nMuch like the porosity of stone materials, the finish can greatly affect the look, feel, and functionality of an outdoor area. Rough cut or chopped limestone blocks offer a rustic, natural feel while the same stone with a saw cut finished edge can transform a wall face or column top to a modern, sleek reveal. Additionally, when dealing with patio or walkway hardscape choices, consider how slick the stone finish will become during periods of precipitation or with a layer of snow or ice.
\n\n\n\nPaths need to be stable, easy to walk on, and preferably look like they belong. Again, a sense of fitting in with the natural landscape is important. Gravel, crushed rock and decomposed granite paths should ideally be edged, either with metal edging, wood timbers, or smaller brick or stone pieces. Dry-set paths of flagstone should use thicker stones 2” – 6”. Stone steps need to be set in concrete for stability, unless they are fairly massive (5-6” thick).
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Lnn5Z38LXNcMGHS4Eczmdvp9L_d985SC9C4g9ZCQTJ9uChaNFckL-0k0fRv8fI2YnXpZYMngKqMm8lKJA-kvjW_D8kXS2LOVdwidZ0zXbe1nlXADqvdcbWooXFSSUqryOPhPi2tzwZayHAsMJQ\")
The use of large, natural stones or boulders as pure design elements in the garden can help lift an ordinary planting plant to a new level of visual interest. Enormous granite boulders flecked with sparkly quartz, limestone or sandstone outcroppings that mimic those found in nature, large half-buried mossy fieldstones, or even a special grouping of uniquely shaped beach stones you found on your last vacation can help add a truly one of a kind feel to your landscape and make them “pop” with unusual interest.
\n\n\n\nSo, if you’re designing a new garden, or looking to rehabilitate a portion of one already in existence, think of the hardscape components just as carefully as you consider what trees, shrubs, and plants you want to put where. In the end, you’ll have a more integrated, harmonious design, less maintenance, and a more interesting garden!
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/PZEdM3YTIs88s5BNsjKaFNlBC_00OT-5jOLe-MmTDcMOL8n20xfpgJPPJ8Om3dqfEG81ZyZmPz_w5NMby2-cACKhHG3VhR6S9kBskkdlEN8txf4_GREewQG1Oax9HhfG56V0Yu_yW3susT-1sw\")
While the reasons to add stone and hardscape elements to your landscape design might be numerous and easy to define, setting a price to this addition is not as clear. The cost of stone varies considerably depending on its weight, smoothness or texture, style, and thickness. Another variable is the process of installation, or how much labor will be required to complete the installation and how easily accessible is the final location of the stone or brick. Also, using stone sourced near a quarry will be more economical (not to mention contextually relevant to your natural surroundings). This means if you live in an area naturally rich in stone, like Texas, then getting limestone will be easier on the budget compared to shipping in a Canadian granite.
\n\n\n\nAll of those variables aside, the average cost to install a flagstone patio will range somewhere from $15 to $30 per square foot. Natural boulders are usually sold by the pound or ton depending on how big they are. Be sure to account for heavy equipment needed to deliver and set these elements. River rock or other small stone aggregate is sold by the cubic yard (1).
\n\n\n\nIf this all seems overwhelming, do not be discouraged. In the world of landscape design, pricing and product availability is often changing. The best solution is to work with a local landscape architect that knows the most sound solutions for your specific climate, native plantings, and natural resources.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/OFnLC5KZjapS6M2mXMtD4cBe6rAhCuWZVy6AnZ5f03wuHI4nKAX79ZbJvZwjZ-p3SfsGX4VzUerOtQxn1SBTmP_RapHwrSFkfmbzmqIMKzPWciVqC1p1CriR1RYLb_VHUh0GdRNHzASUGkU6TQ\")
Stone connects the garden to the land, since stone is literally of the earth. It is a natural material that complements plants, lasts forever, and is intrinsically beautiful. Flagstone terraces, high walls combining large, vertical granite stones with small fieldstones, low traditional dry-laid walls, outdoor fireplaces and fire pits, fountains and waterfalls, rock paths and walkways—all woven together create a wonderful weft for the warp of landscape of plants, and work to further enhance natural elements such as wooden pergolas, woven branch fences and antique ornaments or placed artistic objects.
\n\n\n\n1. http://paverscostguide.com
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Redi-Rock International
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\n","content":"\nBy John Egan
\n\n\n\nThe more than 4.5 million residents of the Riverside-San Bernardino, CA, metro area are driven to drive.
A WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shifts Southern California’s Riverside-San Bernardino metro area into the highest gear when it comes to major metro areas that are the most revved up about cars.
Now, you might be wondering why we care about cars so much. Well, as a lawn care company, we’re a little curious about which metro areas have garages crammed with cars rather than lawn care equipment.
To come up with this ranking, we looked under the hood at data from the the Census Bureau’s 2013-2017 American Community Survey. Once there, we crunched data for the 50 largest U.S. metro areas in two categories:
We then figured out the percentage of occupied housing units that have at least three vehicles, defined by the Census Bureau as cars, pickup trucks, SUVs or vans. Riverside-San Bernardino — known as the Inland Empire — parked in the No. 1 spot, with nearly 28.4 percent of occupied housing units (mainly houses, apartments and condos) having at least three vehicles.
We limited our analysis to the 50 largest metro areas in the U.S.
Matt DeLorenzo, senior managing editor at Irvine, CA-based automotive valuation and research company Kelley Blue Book, attributes Riverside-San Bernardino’s place atop the ranking, at least in part, to its location between the sprawling Los Angeles metro area and the mountains and deserts of Southern California.
“People in this area most likely have a lot of toys, ranging from off-road vehicles and motorcycles to boats and campers,” DeLorenzo says. “So they need vehicles for towing or getting to their preferred weekend activities.”
As for five of our top 12 being in California, DeLorenzo offers a one-word explanation: geography.
“California has big urban areas that are somewhat served by mass transit, but the main people movers are cars, trucks and SUVs,” he says.
In 2017, nearly 25.5 million automobiles were registered in California, according to the state Department of Motor Vehicles. Almost 2 million cars and pickup trucks were expected to have been sold throughout the state in 2018, the California New Car Dealers Association says.
A 2003 article in the New York Times noted that California reigns as the No. 1 automotive market in the state, considering that it’s also the biggest state in terms of population.
California’s car culture has been cultivated since the 1950s, the article said.
“Californians do not cruise much anymore, nor do they hang out at drive-ins, and parking is generally not allowed on the beaches,” the article pointed out. “Still, the car culture persists because drivers continue to spend a lot of time sitting on freeway on-ramps, imagining they could be doing these things instead of waiting … to join the herd on Interstate 5.”
With Riverside-San Bernardino racing to the lead position, here’s our ranking of the 12 Metro Areas That Are Most Revved Up About Cars.
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Bernardino-CA.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,335,366
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 378,794
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 28.37%
![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Jose-CA.jpg?fit=1024%2C683&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 647,891
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 174,268
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 26.90%
![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Richmond-VA.jpg?fit=1024%2C639&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 479,256
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 123,195
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 25.71%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Salt-Lake-City-UT.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 382,620
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 98,057
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 25.63%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Nashville-TN.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 691,266
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 164,594
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.81%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Birmingham-Alabama.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 440,261
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 104,514
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.74%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/San-Diego-CA-.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,111,739
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 260,552
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.44%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Sacramento-CA.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 811,543
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 187,149
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 23.06%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Denver-CO.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 1,075,807
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 244,836
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.76%
![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Virginia-Beach-VA.jpg?fit=1024%2C615&ssl=1\")
Occupied housing units: 638,027
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 145,090
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.74%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Charlotte-North-Carolina.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 906,355
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 202,932
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.39%
![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Los-Angeles-California.jpg\")
Occupied housing units: 4,320,174
\n\n\n\nOccupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 966,163
\n\n\n\n% of occupied housing units with 3+ vehicles: 22.36%
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/The-12-Metro-Areas-That-Are-the-Most-Revved-Up-About-Cars-v2.png\")
Top Photo: Flickr // Kelly Hobbs
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
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