![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Untitled-design-1.jpg\")
I firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards. If you’re firmly […]
\n","content":"\nI firmly believe any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing somewhere it isn’t wanted. This includes even turfgrass like Bahiagrass. Some homeowners adore the low-maintenance needs of Bahiagrass when grown for a lawn, and others absolutely despise it when rogue rhizomes creep out of neighboring pastures into their yards.
\n\n\n\nIf you’re firmly in the Bahiagrass-grass-is-trash camp, let’s dive into different ways to get rid of Bahiagrass in your landscape!
\n\n\n\nWhether it’s in your lawn or taking up residence in your vegetable garden or flower beds, we’ve got options for you. I will also offer non-chemical approaches to get rid of Bahiagrass if you’re looking for sustainable solutions.
\n\n\nWhen you see Bahiagrass in your lawn or flower beds, the first instinct is to grab ahold of it and yank it out by hand. Manually pulling it out may work, but remember that it reproduces via rhizomes, so you have to remove the entire underground part of the plant, too. If you only hand-pull the top off, the rhizomes continue reproducing, sending out new grass shoots.
\n\n\n\nSo, with this in mind, you should attack Bahiagrass with a multi-pronged approach, employing cultural practices and chemical or natural herbicides.
\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: eleonimages / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nI understand if you’ve ever stood in the lawn chemical aisle at your local hardware or big box store feeling overwhelmed and dizzy by all the choices. There are shelves of different products claiming to control various weeds. And it is essential to pick the right one for the task.
\n\n\n\nBefore we get into specific products, let’s talk about two types of weed killers and what sets them apart from one another: pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\nI try to use pre-emergent herbicides whenever possible, as it’s easier to stop weeds from germinating (and yes, I’m going to classify Bahia as a weed in this situation) than it is to get rid of them once they sprout. You have limited pre-emergent options if you have Bahia growing on your lawn.
\n\n\n\nPlease note that it’s imperative to read the product label thoroughly. Only use herbicide you know is safe for your grass type.
\n\n\n\nCompared to pre-emergent products, you have many more options for post-emergent herbicides. However, care must still be taken to ensure you don’t harm your lawn. And be forewarned that you may need to apply these products more than once to control Bahia because of its deep rhizomes.
\n\n\n\nThe following selective herbicides are labeled for use on specific turf types, so they won’t harm the intended grass but should tackle the Bahia infestation. Plus, they’ll likely also get rid of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is a little easier to control in flower beds or garden plots. While there is controversy surrounding glyphosate (commonly sold as RoundUp), it is an effective weed killer and works well when you are looking for something for spot treatment. Glyphosate is non-selective, killing anything it touches; be careful not to spray it when it’s windy or when the Bahia is close to other desired plants.
\n\n\n\n![\"lush](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Bahiagrass-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nBeyond chemical treatment methods, you can implement some essential lawn care practices for the control of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nEncouraging a healthy, lush lawn is the best way to prevent unwanted grasses and weeds. A thick, dense carpet of grass will naturally choke out unwanted Bahia trying to take hold.
\n\n\n\nFertilize your lawn on a regular schedule based on the type of grass you’re growing. For most grasses, this will be at least twice per year. Bahiagrass has low nutrient needs, so regular lawn fertilization will hinder its growth and keep it from returning.
\n\n\n\nBahia spreads primarily through underground rhizomes but also puts out distinctive, Y-shaped seed heads. These seed heads disperse and further spread the unwanted grass when left alone. Mowing your lawn consistently—at the appropriate lawn mower height for your turf type—helps prevent any Bahia in your grass from going to seed and spreading.
\n\n\n\nWhen dealing with Bahia that has gone to seed, you should bag and dispose of your grass clippings versus letting them fall back on the grass.
\n\n\n\nKeeping your lawn so it isn’t too dry is a fantastic way to discourage Bahia from growing. Bahia is revered for its drought tolerance and will quickly move into established turf if the soil is too dry and the existing grass is stressed.
\n\n\n\nWater your grass deeply, yet infrequently, several times a week. Aim to give it about one inch of water (total) over the course of a week, but this amount varies slightly based on the grass you’re growing and the soil conditions.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is opportunistic and will take over empty space, including the bare spots in your St. Augustine or Bermudagrass lawn. To help prevent it from sneaking its way in, anytime you see bare spots in your grass, sow grass seed quickly and cover the soil with a layer of mulch. Growing new grass as soon as possible will help keep Bahia at bay.
\n\n\n\n![\"sparse](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Sparse-Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Harry Rose / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nFor those who want to veer away from traditional chemical control methods, you have a couple of options that may work. A quick caveat though: these methods typically have a lower success rate and take much longer to see results.
\n\n\n\nSome people swear by using vinegar (scientifically known as acetic acid) as a weed killer. Mix one cup of white distilled vinegar, one cup of water, and a few drops of dish soap from under your kitchen sink. Shake the ingredients together and spray or pour it directly on the Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nThe vinegar pulls water out of the plant, drying out the leaves and ultimately (hopefully) killing whatever you pour it on. This is why it’s essential only to spray it on weeds, making sure it doesn’t get on anything you want to keep.
\n\n\n\nI’ve tried this method myself and have gotten mixed results. I’ve found it works best if you apply it on hot, sunny days and then repeat it every five days or so.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large Bahiagrass patches in your lawn or garden you want to get rid of, an effective way to tackle them naturally is to deprive the entire section of sunlight. Cover the Bahia with black plastic sheeting or large garbage bags, securing the corners so the covering stays in place. After a couple of weeks, everything under the plastic should be smothered out and dead.
\n\n\n\nPersonally, I think this method is best for your garden and flower beds. If you use it on your lawn, you’ll also kill any other grass in the area.
\n\n\n\nLastly, if you’re looking for an alternative pre-emergent method, you can apply corn gluten meal to your lawn. Use about 20 pounds of it per 1,000 square feet of grass for the best results.
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal has been used as an organic, natural pre-emergent herbicide for many years. Researchers at Iowa State University unintentionally discovered its pre-emergent properties in the early 1990s. When applied to the soil, it releases dipeptides, organic compounds that dry out seeds, so they have trouble sprouting.
\n\n\n\nIf you are looking for a chemical control option, you must carefully choose a product that considers Bahia a “weed” and kills it without damaging your turf. Some commonly used post-emergent herbicides include metsulfuron-methyl, sethoxydim, and imazaquin. Always read the product label and double-check that the herbicide is safe for the type of grass you’re growing.
The biggest problem with leaving Bahiagrass mixed in your turfgrass is its potential to spread and take over. If left unchecked, it could push out your desired turf, whether St. Augustine, Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass, etc. Plus, Bahia seed heads are unsightly and pop up quickly when left unmowed.
Centipedegrass is the best choice if you’re looking for a warm-season turf that naturally keeps Bahiagrass out. It forms a dense, thick carpet of lawn that will usually keep Bahiagrass from creeping in or choke out any existing plants.
Hopefully, these ideas will help get rid of any unwanted Bahiagrass in your lawn. Once you’ve removed it, we’ve got plenty of resources online to help you with grass and lawn care to keep it from returning. And if you ever need help with lawn weed control, lawn care experts are only a click away!
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Harry Rose / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nHomeowners could be experiencing lawn problems for a few reasons. It is important to identify the issue so you can properly eliminate it and take preventative measures once your lawn is healthy again. Because grubs are one of the most common lawn problems, we will explore the signs of grubs in your lawn. If you see these signs in your lawn, you can begin the process of grub control before they get worse.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/a55f7129-514d-4685-ac60-c0b55cc3a38a.jpg\")
Photo Credit: VIKAS KUMAR / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nFirst, the good news: having a few grubs in a healthy lawn does not indicate a problem. If you see C-shaped larvae or think you may have grubs, grab a shovel and dig a few small holes in the suspected area.
\n\n\n\nNow, the not-so-good news: after you dig, if you see more than five grubs per square foot, your yard may have a grub infestation. You do not want to apply grub control products to your grass unless necessary, but waiting to start treatment to get rid of grubs can worsen your grub problem and grub damage. Calling a professional to be sure your lawn needs treatment is always a viable option.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe grub problem starts when adult beetles choose your lawn in their search for a healthy habitat to lay their eggs. If you see flying beetles hovering over your grass, your yard could be at the top of their list for a food source and home for their future babies.
\n\n\n\nOnce beetles lay their eggs, it’s only a matter of time before the eggs develop into larvae. In the larval stage, they feed on your grass’s root system. With the nourishment they receive from your lawn, they eventually become adult beetles.
\n\n\n\nHovering beetles do not definitively mean you have grubs, but their presence, combined with other symptoms, could be a pretty sure sign.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nBrown patches or yellow spots are signs your yard may be victim to an unwanted grub population. These irregular patches typically appear in late summer, around August.
\n\n\n\nBrown spots or patches can be caused by many things, like lawn disease or drought. If you have other indicators of grubs, test for grubs yourself by digging up 1-square-foot portions of the lawn or call a pest control company.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen grubs tunnel into your grass’s roots, they can kill the grass completely, causing dead spots. Multiple dead spots that do not improve are strong indicators of grubs.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"bird](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/d5635a6c-233a-43ad-9848-d4f3f21986db.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Anmol Dash / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrubs may be despicable little creatures to us, but to some in the animal kingdom, they are a delectable treat. Armadillos, raccoons, skunks, and birds feed on grubs. If you notice increased animal activity in your yard, it is a sign that your lawn may need a grub treatment. These animals become additional lawn pests, as they cause more damage by digging to get to the white grubs.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrubs cause damage underground. They eat plant roots and weaken the bond between the roots and grass. The result is grass that feels loose, springy, or spongy when you walk on it. It may feel like you have just laid sod.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners can test for the possibility of grubs by pulling up patches of grass. Grass that rolls up like unsecured carpet indicates you may have lawn grubs.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrubs are beetles that have not become adult beetles yet. When beetles like Japanese and June beetles lay eggs, the eggs advance to the next step in their life cycle, which is larvae. Larvae, also known as white grubs, are squishy and C-shaped, with legs close to their brown heads.
\n\n\n\nGrubs live underground and feast on the roots of your grass and other organic matter in the soil, which kills sections of the grass. If you don’t attack grub problems before it is too late, your grass will not be stable and firmly attached to the ground. Because the bond between the grass and roots has been weakened, the grass can become very easy to pull up and roll up like a blanket.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYes. There are both natural ways and chemical methods to get rid of grubs. Natural ways take longer, but they are healthier for you and the environment than non-organic chemical pesticides and insecticides. You can purchase beneficial nematodes, which are microscopic worms that naturally live in the soil. They release bacteria that kill grubs.
\n\n\n\nYou can also put the bacterium milky spore on the lawn to kill Japanese beetle grubs. This bacterium comes in a powder.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners can also make a neem oil solution with neem oil, water, and Castile soap, and spray it on the lawn.
\n\n\n\nSee our article How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn to learn more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnfortunately, grubs do not go away on their own. They spread quickly and can cause severe damage to your lawn. If you have signs of grub activity, test for them or call a professional to test and start treatment as soon as possible.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrubs thrive in excess moisture. Be mindful not to overwater your grass in the summer. The more you water, the more you increase the chances moisture will soak deep into the soil layer where grubs live.
\n\n\n\nGood lawn care habits and healthy lawn characteristics that create thriving grass also generate an ideal environment for grubs, like aeration and rich soil. A few grubs are normal, and a healthy lawn can withstand the little slimy creatures. Grubs become a problem when you have too many. When the grub population in your yard becomes too large for your lawn to sustain, you will start to see the signs discussed above.
\n\n\n\nWhether you have lawn grubs you need to eliminate or you just want a professional to maintain your grass, WikiLawn can connect you to qualified lawn care pros in your area to keep your grass healthy and green.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Peter Shaw / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nHow does your garden grow? With a lot of help from your local plant nurseries. One thing many of these garden centers have in common? Longevity. It’s customary to find greenhouses that have been around 50, 60, even 100 years!
\n\n\n\nWe put together a list of the country’s best. The Wiki-Wonder award judges based their criteria on:
\n\n\n\nTo be considered one of Wikilawn’s best, the nursery must also have a website with helpful articles and a sizable presence on social media.
\n\n\n\nAfter years of not being able to find unique plant selections locally, the Cordrey family decided to open their own garden center to fill the void. Today, East Coast Garden Center in Millsboro, Del., has more than 70 greenhouses and brings in plants from around the country, ensuring they always have high-quality plants in stock. The nursery also holds classes on new skills and techniques in gardening and even has a children’s garden area.
\n\n\n\nWhat does a Major League Baseball star do when he retires? If he’s Mark Clear, he opens a plant nursery! Clear, whose 11-year MLB career included two trips to the All-Star game, discovered his love for plants as a kid while working on an avocado ranch. He owned a nursery in California while pitching in the majors, moving to the Midwest after retiring. Located in Ottawa, Kansas, since 1991, Loma Vista Nursery is still family-owned, sitting on 300 acres, with 150 greenhouses and a tree farm. Talk about throwing the winning pitch!
\n\n\n\nLooking for landscapers who know their horticulture? Look no further than Leaf Landscape Supply, with two locations in Austin, Texas. Owners Brad Seever and Trey Wyatt hold degrees in horticulture and agriculture. Wyatt founded Leaf Landscape under a different name 37 years ago. Seever bought into the company in 2014. Today, it’s a wholesale plant nursery and landscape supplier, offering unique greenery from across the country.
\n\n\n\nAdding a water feature to your garden calms the mind and refreshes the spirit. Hill Country Water Gardens & Nursery wants to help you build the water garden of your dreams. Around for two decades, this garden center in Cedar Park, Texas, has everything you need to build a successful backyard pond or running water feature. You’ll also find fish to put in your pond.
\n\n\n\nVivero Growers started out as a wholesaler for landscape companies in the Austin area. Now, this plant nursery, specializing in Texas native and adapted plants, grasses, and trees, is open to the public. Whether you’re looking to attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies or a succulent, Vivero Growers has you covered.
\n\n\n\nGinkgo Gardens is a lush oasis in the heart of lively Capitol Hill, serving the urban gardener. Founded 20 years ago in Washington, D.C., this nursery offers trees, shrubs, and flowers, along with hardscape goods and landscape design. Ginkgo Gardens also cares about historic preservation, buying a pre-Civil War house next to the nursery and restoring it. It’s now used as a staging area for landscape supplies.
\n\n\n\nFounded in 1911, the oldest garden center in Denver is still going strong. City Floral Greenhouse sits in the heart of the Mile High City. For the first 50 years, City Floral grew, cut, and delivered flowers to homes and businesses, including the historic Brown Palace hotel. In the ’70s, it started morphing into a garden center and tree nursery, still striving to beautify Denver.
\n\n\n\nGrowing plants without soil? Root Grow Bloom Hydroponics & Organics is here to show you what hydroponics is all about. The technique has been around for thousands of years but didn’t really come into favor in the U.S. until the military used it on a soilless island in the Pacific Ocean during World War II. Root Grow Bloom has been a staple in Orlando’s hydroponic and organic gardening scene for 20 years and will show you how to get started from the ground up.
\n\n\n\nIt’s all in the family for this Richmond, Va., plant nursery that started as a renovated gas station. Back in 1974, Gene and Diane McAuliffe opened Tropical Treehouse and started selling tropical plants and flowers. In the years since then, three sons and several business expansions led to what is today, Cross Creek Nursery. The entire family is involved in the business and also volunteers in the community.
\n\n\n\nSunnyside Gardens comes from meager beginnings as an unassuming, small garden plot. Fast forward 80 years, and it’s one of South Minneapolis’ premier plant nurseries. Sunnyside offers landscape design, custom containers and, of course, everything in the nursery. Owner Mike Hurley feels strongly about giving back and holds gardening classes for local children and schools.
\n\n\n\nGideon A. Strange worked for the post office but wanted to earn extra cash in his spare time. It was the early 1930s, the time of the Great Depression, so he planted flowers and plants in his yard and sold them from there. Since then, the nursery has changed ownership and undergone massive expansion in the Richmond, Va., area but retains the Strange name. It’s one of the largest retail garden centers in the country.
\n\n\n\n“Virginian Grown and Owned.” That’s Colesville Nursery, in Ashland. The same family has run it for nearly 50 years. It’s a place where generations of growers born and raised in Virginia cultivate plants, flowers, and trees. Certified horticulturists answer your questions about native trees, hard-to-find perennials, and gardening in Virginia.
\n\n\n\nIn tune with the environment, Mother Earth Gardens specializes in organic gardening and sustainably grown plants. This Minneapolis garden center is open year-round with a different focus for each season. During spring and summer, it’s organic seeds, veggies, and herbs. Autumn brings locally grown gourds and pumpkins, while winter homes in on herbicide-free Christmas trees.
\n\n\n\nWaldoch Farm in Lino Lakes, Minn., started out selling chickens in 1916. It didn’t take long before owner William Waldoch expanded into produce. Over the years, his son, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren have picked up the hoe and joined the family business. William continued helping on the farm until he was 100 years old. These days, operations include the popular pick-your-own-vegetable garden, covering 30 acres.
\n\n\n\nO’Toole’s Garden Centers describes itself in three words: Local. Colorful. Knowledgeable. Serving Denver for nearly 40 years, O’Toole’s brings color into your home and yard. On a mission to cultivate gorgeous gardens, keep their employees happy and their communities thriving, this nursery wants to keep Colorado green.
\n\n\n\nEverything’s still coming up roses at Tagawa Gardens but, these days, that means a plant nursery that’s morphed into a huge garden center. It started in the ’60s as a long-stem roses greenhouse for florists. The Tagawa family has since expanded into a 110,000-square-foot indoor space and more than an acre outdoors filled with everything you’d hope to find at a garden center. The Denver nursery keeps the rose in its logo as a reminder of how it all started.
\n\n\n\nThree generations have put down roots at Country Fair Garden Center in Denver. For more than 70 years, the Gerace family has been showing you how to cope with the Mile High City’s unique growing conditions and tough environment. They believe in giving back, donating seeds and supplies to teachers each year for class projects.
\n\n\n\nWhen two childhood friends were studying horticulture at Texas A&M University in the ’70s, they started a lawn care company to make money. They brought that company home to Dallas after graduating. After many trials and tribulations, Shades of Green transformed into a family-owned and operated garden center, in business now for 43 years.
\n\n\n\nStrader’s is one of Central Ohio’s largest employers during peak garden season, with more than 300 staffers on hand in both their retail and wholesale divisions. Started some 60 years ago by Jack and Ruth Strader, it’s been a family affair, with their four children working alongside them.
\n\n\n\nOakland Nurseries opened its original space in 1940. Now, after opening its fourth location in New Albany, it sports the motto “32 Acres of Gardening Pleasure.” After the latest expansion, three generations of Gustav Reiner’s family now work in the Columbus area, selling horticulture products, along with designs and living landscapes.
\n\n\n\nLandscaping’s the name of the game at Liberty Landscape Supply in Jacksonville, Fla. In their perfect world, people would spend more time outside working on their yards, creating beautiful landscapes. They hope to accomplish this by making landscaping easy. Liberty has everything from mulch to stone to trees and plants. They also offer expert tips and solutions for bringing your landscaping dreams to life.
\n\n\n\nThe Garden Center in San Antonio sells plants, fertilizers, and gardening success. Family owned-and-operated since 1985, this independent retail nursery hand-picks plants from local growers that will do well in the South Texas climate.
\n\n\n\nProviding you with top quality plants and helping you succeed as a gardener is what they do best at Rainbow Gardens. This San Antonio nursery brings in local experts for seminars where they share what works and what doesn’t when it comes to growing. There’s even a Kids Gardening Club where the little ones see, smell, taste, and feel what gardening is all about.
\n\n\n\nIf you follow the winding brick road (well, pathway) at this nursery, you’ll find a diverse collection of garden art, fountains, and containers. Head indoors at Shades of Green and see a vast array of native plants and shrubs that are adapted to the San Antonio climate. Shades of Green in San Antonio (not to be confused with the nursery of the same name near Dallas), stays away from toxic chemicals and practices the organic method of gardening
\n\n\n\nMore than 30 years ago, Earth Works started as a small lawn-maintenance company. Today, it’s a full-service landscape business and garden center in the Jacksonville area. Earth Works plans on being there for its customers for years to come. The goal of their landscape team is to make your backyard the best room in the house.
\n\n\n\n“It’s not a landscape. It’s a lifestyle. Dig in.” That’s the motto of Garden Supply Company in Cary, N.C. Started 20 years ago as a landscape and design company, the original three-person crew has grown to 40 staff members, 6 acres and a building filled with plants, flowers, and supplies for container gardening. They also carry everything you’ll need for beekeeping.
\n\n\n\nPlant Delights has a physical nursery in Raleigh, N.C., but does much of its business online. At any given time, the website has more than 1,500 plants for sale, and specializes in rare and unusual perennials. The owner, Tony Avent, has made 60 expeditions to countries including China, South Africa, and Argentina, looking for exotic flowers for his customers.
\n\n\n\nMost plant nurseries focus on the outdoors; landscaping with trees, shrubs, and flowers. Foliage Concepts is an interiorscape company featuring high-quality interior plantings. Located in three North Carolina cities, the company has provided design and build services to hospitals, hotels, and office buildings since 1985, also working hard to be “green” by recycling soil, grow pots and moss.
\n\n\n\nWith a name like Jack Frost, you’d think this garden center would be in a snowy, cold city, but this nursery is near the Atlantic Ocean in Virginia Beach. When owner, David Dubinsky, arrived in the city 37 years ago, he had $500 in his pocket. He has since parlayed that meager amount into his full-service landscape and garden center. Jack Frost also offers hardscaping, creating patios, seating walls, and fire pits.
\n\n\n\nFour Seasons Nursery in Virginia Beach, has served both commercial and residential customers for nearly 50 years with a full-service plant nursery, as well as landscaping materials sold in bulk. With four certified horticulturists and several master gardeners on hand, you’ll certainly find plants that are just right for your lifestyle and budget.
\n\n\n\nBerridge Nurseries in Phoenix was founded in 1938 and forced to move to its second location in 1971 when some boys set a series of fires in the city. Berridge Nurseries rebuilt, then moved one more time to its current location on Camelback Road. The nursery remains in the family with the third generation now owners and operators.
\n\n\n\nImagine a business that’s been in the family for 130 years! In 1890, A.J. Rahn Greenhouses was one of 19 family-owned plant companies operating in an area of Cincinnati known as Wooden Shoe Hollow. Rahn is still going strong, offering flower bedding, houseplants, vegetables, and fruit plants. The fifth generation of the A.J. Rahn family now runs the nursery, keeping their proud heritage intact.
\n\n\n\nThis family-owned greenhouse has deep roots in the Cincinnati area. It started in Spring Grove, a village that fed the city with fresh produce. Over the years, the city grew up around that village but Funke’s family farm spirit remains. Their mission includes providing plants and knowledge to home gardeners so they can take control of their own food supply.
\n\n\n\nYou won’t find any golden arches here, but you will find a large white barn with timbers that are 140 years old. Back in the 1800s, Burger Farm and Garden Center was a dairy farm. The family switched to crops around 1950 and continued another 30 years before opening the garden center you see today. Customers give them rave reviews for helping create what they say are the most beautiful yards in Cincinnati.
\n\n\n\nThis Charlotte, N.C., company has more than 20,000 square feet under glass. Its greenhouses are filled to the brim with houseplants and tropical plants. Doing business for more than 40 years, Oakdale Greenhouses boasts that it is “Charlotte’s best source for plants.” In addition to its wide variety of greenery, they add expertise on koi fish and water plants.
\n\n\n\nWhen designing your garden, Southern Styles Nursery and Garden Center offers this advice: Start with trees. It calls them the backbone of a garden setting. Southern Styles has an immense selection of trees, from exotic to common shade, Japanese maple, and evergreen. Once you’re done with that, you can explore the rest of this Charlotte, N.C., nursery to pick out the rest of your landscape items.
\n\n\n\nDespite Grass Pad’s logo, they’re not smokin’ it, they’re growin’ it! What started out on a 700-acre sod farm at the end of a long gravel road in Missouri grew into today’s five locations in the Kansas City area and one in Omaha, Neb. They’re still transforming lawns with green sod, but have added full-line nurseries at each warehouse site.
\n\n\n\nThe man behind Rolling Meadows, Jesse Meadows, worked in landscaping for 15 years before making his garden center dream a reality. With a focus on creativity and quality, Jesse offers both residential and commercial landscaping in the Overland Park, Kansas, area. You’ll also find eco-friendly products and classes on how to go green.
\n\n\n\nBoth serious and casual gardeners will find what they need at Summer Winds Garden Centers, which has locations in Phoenix and the Santa Clara Valley in California. The company is one of the largest independent retail nursery businesses in the nation. Putting water and energy-saving initiatives into practice, Summer Winds is committed to the responsible use of our natural resources.
\n\n\n\nLondon Bridge Greenhouses & Nursery
\n\n\n\nLondon Bridge has been a Virginia Beach gardening tradition since 1976. Look for bulk sales of mulch, gravel, and organic mushroom compost. Their greenhouses are home to a huge selection of flowers. And butterfly lovers, rejoice! They even have a certified monarch butterfly waystation.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are more than 13,000 plant nurseries in the U.S., so there’s a possibility we missed your favorite.
\n","title":"The 40 Top Plant Nurseries in the U.S.","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3544444444444443,"src":"/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/1789c/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg","srcSet":"/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/107df/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg 320w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/293e9/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg 500w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/f2cbb/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg 800w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/1789c/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg 960w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/7199d/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.jpg 1219w","srcWebp":"/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/1dd6e/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/67b76/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp 320w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/8df11/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp 500w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/98a65/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp 800w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/1dd6e/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp 960w,\n/static/3a986897439d21f2d3c31ad97ef91c1f/6413b/work-nature-growth-plant-lawn-house-884622-pxhere.com_.webp 1219w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 40 Top Plant Nurseries in the U.S. | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"c3d2d0ef-0b52-5679-8531-cdce38189828","slug":"the-8-major-metro-areas-that-are-most-fired-up-about-burning-coal-to-keep-warm","path":"/blog/the-8-major-metro-areas-that-are-most-fired-up-about-burning-coal-to-keep-warm/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"May 13th, 2019","excerpt":"John Egan On chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth. Among the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating […]
\n","content":"\nJohn Egan
\n\n\n\nOn chilly days, most Americans heat their homes by turning up the thermostat for a furnace powered by natural gas or electricity. Even today, though, some folks fire up coal-burning stoves to supply warmth.
\n\n\n\nAmong the country’s 50 biggest metro areas, nowhere is dependent on coal or coke (a coal byproduct) for heating fuel more than Pittsburgh, PA.
\n\n\n\nA WikiLawn review of U.S. Census Bureau data shows 173 of every 100,000 occupied housing units in the Pittsburgh area rely on coal or coke for heating fuel. By comparison, 108 of every 100,000 occupied households across the country depend on coal or coke to generate heat.
\n\n\n\nLike Pittsburgh, six of the seven other metro areas on our list are in the Northeast, where coal historically has been more popular as a heating source than in other parts of the country.
\n\n\n\nCertainly, the total number of occupied U.S. households where you’d find a coal-burning stove is tiny — just one-tenth of 1 percent, or a little over 128,500 households. Of those households, an estimated 1,939 are in the Pittsburgh metro area, according to our analysis of data from the Census Bureau’s 2013-2017 American Community Survey. The annual survey takes the pulse of America in terms of demographic and housing characteristics.
\n\n\n\nAnyone who lives in or grew up in Pennsylvania undoubtedly knows why coal remains a source of heat for more than 1,900 households in the Pittsburgh area.
\n\n\n\nIn 2017, Pennsylvania ranked third among the country’s top coal-producing states, behind Wyoming and West Virginia, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA). That year, Pennsylvania mined 49.1 tons of coal, or 6 percent of the country’s total coal output.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, coal production in the U.S. has fallen off as utility companies have switched to natural gas, a cheaper source of energy, or to wind and solar power, which, unlike coal, are renewable sources of energy. Nationwide coal production slipped nearly 3 percent in 2018 from the previous year, according to EIA.
\n\n\n\nThe Keystone Stone, particularly the Pittsburgh area, enjoys a centuries-old relationship with coal. Mining of bituminous (or “soft”) coal in Pennsylvania dates back to the late 1700s. In Pennsylvania, bituminous coal first was mined in Mount Washington — aka “Coal Hill” — just across the Monongahela River from Pittsburgh, according to the state Department of Environmental Protection.
\n\n\n\nOver the years, industrial plants around the state, including steel factories in the Pittsburgh area, have consumed much of the coal mined in Pennsylvania.
\n\n\n\nBeginning with Pittsburgh, here’s our list of the 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Coal-Burning Stoves. (Or, put another way, the 8 Major Metro Areas Where Frosty the Snowman Should Be Afraid of Losing His Two Eyes Made Out of Coal.)
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/pittsburgh-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 1,118,610
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,939
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 173
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/hartford-ct-skyline.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 512,877
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 629
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 123
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i0.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/philly-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C672&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 2,469,188
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 2,637
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 107
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cleveland-oh-skyline.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 959,615
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,013
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 106
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/providence-ri-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 700,220
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 582
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 83
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/boston-ma-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg\")
Number of occupied housing units: 1,930,177
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 1,204
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 62
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i2.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/nyc-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 7,916,318
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 4,450
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 56
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://i1.wp.com/www.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Buffalo-NY-skyline-for-coal-article.jpg?fit=1024%2C736&ssl=1\")
Number of occupied housing units: 525,820
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units using coal or coke for heating fuel: 284
\n\n\n\nNumber of occupied housing units per 100,000 using coal or coke for heating fuel: 54
\n\n\n\nAuthor Bio: John Egan is a freelance writer who covers everything from personal finance to lawn care. His masterful work has been featured in The Huffington Post, Forbes, and The Guardian.
\n","title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg","srcSet":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/107df/burning-coals.jpg 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/293e9/burning-coals.jpg 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/f2cbb/burning-coals.jpg 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1789c/burning-coals.jpg 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/a2a79/burning-coals.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/67b76/burning-coals.webp 320w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/8df11/burning-coals.webp 500w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/98a65/burning-coals.webp 800w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/1dd6e/burning-coals.webp 960w,\n/static/337ada0c401dc867613108b62c123fed/7aa54/burning-coals.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 8 Major Metro Areas That Are Most Fired Up About Burning Coal to Keep Warm | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"bd23c7a6-56c1-5baf-b0d7-e3b495e7ae45","slug":"pre-emergent-herbicides","path":"/blog/pre-emergent-herbicides/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"There’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn […]
\n","content":"\nThere’s nothing worse to a lawn fanatic than pouring time and effort into caring for your grass, only to find weeds popping out, ruining your lawn. After the money and effort you’ve put into maintaining your yard, no one would blame you for screaming at the top of your lungs at the sight of lawn weeds. Don’t worry. We get it, and we got you. This article explains how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weeds from ever sprouting in your lawn again.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nThe timing of pre-emergent herbicide application is everything. Pre-emergents will not help you with pesky dandelions or foxtails that seem to be stalking you if they are already sprouting in your lawn. You must apply pre-emergent herbicides before the times of year when weed seeds begin to germinate.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSpring pre-emergent herbicide applications prevent summer annual weeds, like goosegrass and crabgrass. Apply when the soil temperature is about 55 degrees or higher for 48 hours or longer.
\n\n\n\nThe month or time of the month you apply weed control will be determined by what part of the country you live in since climates and weather differ according to location. That’s why it’s better to sync your herbicide applications with the soil temperature rather than a specific date. You can find a soil thermometer online or at your local gardening supply store for less than $10.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApplying pre-emergent herbicide in the early fall prevents winter annual weeds, like common chickweed and annual bluegrass. Apply when the soil temperature falls to around 70 degrees for three days or more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse the product as instructed on the package, including following the proper measurement amounts per area covered. It is also important that you protect yourself from these toxic chemicals.
\n\n\n\nProtective gear to wear when applying herbicides:
\n\n\n\nOnce you’re protected, you can apply pre-emergent herbicides in one of two ways, depending on whether the product you purchased is granular or liquid.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Professional](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Professional-Gardener-with-Lawn-and-Garden-Seed-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGranules are applied by hand or via a shaker bag or spreader. A spreader is best when covering a large area. A cup can be filled with granules and then shaken out from the cup onto the lawn, but this method can take a while.
\n\n\n\nWater the lawn after spreading granules so the herbicide can penetrate the soil, allowing the active ingredients to attack the weed seeds.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Preparing-Pest-Control-Spraying-Equipment.jpg\")
Photo Credit: welcomia / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiquid pre-emergents come in ready-to-use or concentrated forms. If the liquid is in concentrated form, it requires mixing with water, and a sprayer is used for application. Ready-to-use pre-emergents don’t need mixing and typically come in a spray bottle or sprayer.
\n\n\n\nTools needed:
\n\n\n\nSteps:
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve been doing your homework and researching weed control solutions, you have come across both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating. They do not kill weed seeds that have already germinated or actively growing weeds.
\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, post-emergent herbicides control weeds that have sprouted and are growing.
\n\n\n\nA few herbicides contain chemicals that perform as both a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide. Products with Dithiopyr are examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"a](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Watering-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxHere
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe active ingredients in pre-emergents are triggered when watered, which allows the chemicals to penetrate the soil. The chemicals form a barricade on the top of the soil which stops seeds from germinating. Depending on the chemicals in the product, they may stop the roots from growing, prevent seed cell division, or inhibit growth enzymes.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s important to make sure you get the right type of pre-emergent herbicide for your specific weed problem. Otherwise, you might end up hurting your lawn, too, and not just the weeds. The two categories of pre-emergent herbicides are selective and nonselective.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSelective herbicides control specific weeds without adversely affecting other plants. Most pre-emergent herbicides used for home lawns fall into this category.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNonselective herbicides kill all plants. Because of this, nonselective herbicides are used to spot-treat specific plants rather than being applied to the whole lawn or garden. Don’t apply nonselective herbicides around the same time you seed new grass, or they will prevent the grass from growing.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPre-emergents should only be used on turfgrass that has been established for at least one year. Grass can be damaged if pre-emergents are applied too soon after reseeding or overseeding the lawn.
\n\n\n\nSome cool-season grasses that can be injured by pre-emergent applications after the grass has been seeded are tall fescue and ryegrass. Warm-season grasses adversely affected are Bermudagrass and centipedegrass.
\n\n\n\nExamples of grasses that can be damaged by pre-emergent herbicides after sodding or sprigging are the warm-season grasses St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNot all weed killers kill all weeds. So, knowing the type of weed that is growing is important. Make sure you are identifying the weed correctly. Some weed killers destroy broadleaf weeds like spurge, clover, and ragweed. Others are chemically formulated to control grassy weeds, like foxtail and barnyardgrass.
\n\n\n\nAlso, knowing your grass type is important. As previously explained, certain weed killers are recommended for use on certain types of grass seed, while some come with a warning to never be used on specific grass types.
\n\n\n\nSome products are weed killers and fertilizers in one. But homeowners should only fertilize plants and lawns when they are growing actively. Therefore, using a weed and feed product may not be a good idea. Homeowners should never use a two-in-one herbicide on warm-season turfgrasses like Zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.
\n\n\n\nHere are some examples of active ingredients in pre-emergent herbicides and what grass types or kinds of plants on which they can be used safely:
\n\n\n\nAtrazine:
\n\n\n\nBenefin:
\n\n\n\nDithiopyr:
\n\n\n\nIndaziflam:
\n\n\n\nProdiamine:
\n\n\n\nWait at least eight to 10 weeks after using weed killers to reseed your lawn, or the seeds can be killed by the weed control chemicals.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal can be used on henbit in early spring to inhibit seed germination. If the seeds have already germinated, applying the meal can cause the weed to grow. Apply corn gluten meal when it is going to be dry for at least two days; roots in moist soil can absorb nutrients that activate weed growth. Monthly reapplications may be necessary.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGrass that is not properly maintained can result in weed growth. Lawns need to be mowed at the correct heights, fertilized regularly, and watered at the proper frequency to grow thick enough to crowd out weeds. Thin or bare turfgrass can promote weed growth.
\n\n\n\nIn gardens, new weed seeds can be introduced by mowers used on grass that had weeds. However, most weeds in gardens are from seeds that developed in previous years in the garden. Weeds can also emerge when plants are spaced too far apart.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHere are some things you can do to manage weeds:
\n\n\n\nHere are some proactive weed management tips:
\n\n\n\nWhile dinitroanilines control some broadleaf weeds, they do not control perennials, like nutsedges, for example.
\n\n\n\nHerbicides can contain chemicals that both attract and harm pets. Animals can be adversely affected by eating plants treated with herbicides and by inhaling the toxins from treated plants. Some tips to keep pets safe are:
\n\n\n\nBeing one step ahead of weeds is the only way to prevent them. If you know when weed seeds are germinating, you can apply pre-emergent herbicide to keep them from ever sprouting in your lawn. And if you prevent weeds, you’ll never have to pull them.
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes down to it, weed management can be a pain. You have to keep up with a regular schedule, and if you miss just one herbicide application, you could end up with a lawn full of weeds in no time. If you prefer to let someone else manage your lawn care, we can connect you with lawn care professionals in your area who can keep your lawn pristine and weed-free.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Henfaes / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides ","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4388489208633093,"src":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg","srcSet":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/107df/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/293e9/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/f2cbb/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1789c/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/c26c2/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/67b76/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 320w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/8df11/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 500w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/98a65/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 800w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/1dd6e/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 960w,\n/static/a9cff12360d0219e3e098f024fd52344/3cc96/Gardener-horticulturalist-spraying-weed-killer-on-lawn-garden-maintenance.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How and When to Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Find out how and when to apply pre-emergent herbicides, including examples of which chemicals prevent which weeds and answers to FAQs."}}},{"node":{"id":"c8821141-6409-59b1-9d5a-5a8360c22227","slug":"how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil","path":"/blog/how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"March 11th, 2023","excerpt":"A great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider. In this article, we’ll cover: Why You Need to Test and Improve Your Soil […]
\n","content":"\nA great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPlant growth is impacted by the pH balance of the soil. Grass and plants can’t survive in soil that’s too acidic or has too much alkaline. The pH number ranges from 1 to 14. A level below 7 is considered acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. A measurement of 7 is neutral.
\n\n\n\nKnowing the pH of soil lets you decide what to plant and where. The results of a soil test will also indicate how you can improve plant quality. This includes adding fertilizers and other amendments.
\n\n\n\nYou can buy a soil test kit at any home improvement or lawn and garden store. Choose a kit based on what you want to learn about your soil. These kits will come with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
\n\n\n\nAt-home testing kits are accurate enough for the casual gardener and lawn enthusiast. If you’re looking for something more specific, you should consider a full nutrient analysis. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with the soil testing kit and perform the analysis.
\n\n\n\nThe testing process will vary slightly depending on the kit you purchase, but the general process will be the same.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your sample has lots of earthworms wiggling about, this means your soil already has a strong composition of organic matter.
\n\n\n\nA soil amendment is anything added to the soil to improve nutrients, water retention, pH levels, air intake, and absorption. The goal of mixing amendments into your soil is to improve the environment for healthy root growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of soil amendments:
\n\n\n\nWhile mulch can be used to improve soil properties, it is not considered an amendment since it sits atop the soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for amendments depending on what your soil test indicates. Cover crops and composted manure are great options, but not always necessary for home gardeners.
\n\n\n\nMost residential soils will benefit from one of the following common amendments:
\n\n\n\nSome gardens will require very specific adjustments and might require one of the following:
\n\n\n\nThere are three broad classifications of soil based on the rock particles it contains. Texture can be amended by adding organic matter such as compost or plant material.
\n\n\n\nGarden soil should be about 5% organic matter. Organic matter ensures the release of nitrogen is adequate to support your lawn and plants without additional fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nWhen should you add soil amendments?
\n\n\n\nAdd organic amendments in the fall, allowing earthworms to work it deeper into the ground by spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to amend in the spring, do so as soon as the soil is dry enough to work with.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is the first step to healthy and lower maintenance gardens.
\n\n\n\nWhat elements should I keep in mind when amending my soil?
\n\n\n\nFrequent testing will help you determine if your amendments are working. Once you get the soil where you want it, you only need to test every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nSamples should come from near the plant roots. This could be a specific garden bed or a tree’s root system. To assess the soil quality in your lawn, take samples from different areas based on conditions.
\n\n\n\nPhosphorus: Promotes root growth, plant maturity, and winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nPotassium: Disease resistance, drought tolerance, and plant strength.
\n\n\n\nCalcium: Improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
\n\n\n\nMagnesium: Improves plant growth and chlorophyll production.
\n\n\n\n
While testing the soil in your yard might not be an overwhelming task, amending it might. If you find yourself short on time, patience, or ideas, consider calling on a local lawn care professional. The pros know just what to do to keep your soil healthy and when to do it, allowing you to simply enjoy the outcome.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/107df/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/293e9/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/f2cbb/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/c26c2/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/67b76/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/8df11/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/98a65/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/3cc96/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Healthy soil produces healthy plants and lawns. We’ll show you how to test and improve your soil for a greener lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"0aa326f9-3c0e-5cb2-bddd-be154a086cd3","slug":"lawn-aeration-guide","path":"/lawn-care/lawn-aeration-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Taha Javed is a freelance writer and business student in Lahore, Pakistan. She loves swimming, reading, and playing with her dog.","name":"Taha Javed","id":"0531d17c-e9c8-5153-a6fb-6e2994f71716","path":"/author/taha-javed/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/877749883781783414fae4d0b98beb69?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Lawn aeration is essential if the soil in your yard has become compacted over time. This simple yet powerful procedure can revitalize grass and improve its general health. We’ll cover all the information you need to aerate your lawn correctly, including when and how to aerate your lawn and why your grass might need it. […]
\n","content":"\nLawn aeration is essential if the soil in your yard has become compacted over time. This simple yet powerful procedure can revitalize grass and improve its general health. We’ll cover all the information you need to aerate your lawn correctly, including when and how to aerate your lawn and why your grass might need it.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/6baa5fee-5658-4828-9be8-cf92497e9b5f.jpg\")
Infographic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nYour lawn is continuously communicating with you, so pay attention to the cues it gives you. You can identify when it’s time to aerate by paying attention to the state of your lawn. Here are some key indicators that your lawn could benefit from aeration:
\n\n\n\nThe best time for lawn aeration is determined by the type of grass in your yard. In general, aerating your lawn during your grass’s growing season is optimal because the grass is active and can recover rapidly from the aeration process. Since cool-season and warm-season grasses have different growing seasons, the best time to aerate them is different.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLate spring or early summer is the ideal time to aerate warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass. It is the beginning of the grass’s growth season, so your lawn has enough time to recover from the stress of aeration before the hottest part of summer. Spring aeration also helps to alleviate soil compaction caused by winter conditions, allowing the grass to access vital nutrients and moisture more efficiently.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe best time for lawn aeration in cool-season lawns with grasses like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue is early fall or early spring. Aerating in the fall not only aids in reducing soil compaction but also promotes root development to help grass prepare for winter dormancy.
\n\n\n\nNote: Before aerating, evaluate the present weather conditions and soil moisture content. Don’t aerate your lawn after heavy rainfall; wait for it to dry.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn may appear to be a difficult task, but it can be a simple and rewarding process with the appropriate approach. Here’s a step-by-step strategy to aerate your lawn as efficiently as possible.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSharpen your mower’s blade and mow your grass shorter than usual. It allows for easier soil access during aeration. Watering your lawn 1 inch deep a day or two before aeration is also important to keep the soil moist but not overly saturated.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore aerating your grass, mark any sprinkler heads or other obstacles to avoid damaging them. Call 811 a few days before you plan to aerate so someone can come out and mark your utility lines.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are two primary methods for aerating a lawn: spike aeration and core aeration.
\n\n\n\nSpike aeration is the process of poking holes in the soil with spikes, either by hand or with a tool.
\n\n\n\nCore aeration removes small cores or plugs of soil from the lawn. Core aeration is often favored because it creates more space in the soil, producing better results and more benefits.
\n\n\n\n![\"illustration](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Aeration-illustration.png\")
Graphic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/aerate-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jeffoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThere are various varieties of aerators available, each with its unique set of benefits. Consider the following options when choosing the right aeration equipment for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nNote: To pick the best sort of aerator for your needs, consider the size of your lawn, budget, and individual needs. Renting aerators is a cost-effective choice for infrequent use, but owning one may be more practical for frequent or large-scale aeration needs.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"illustration](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/aeration-patterns.png\")
Graphic by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nBegin by walking or towing the aerator around your lawn’s perimeter, working your way inward. To ensure comprehensive coverage, slightly overlap each pass, or follow a crisscross pattern to cover your space entirely. Continue aerating the lawn until it is completely covered.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLeave the soil plugs from core aerators on the lawn to break down naturally, or collect and compost them for later use.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAfter the aeration is finished, try top-dressing the lawn with a thin coating of compost or sand. It improves soil structure and adds valuable organic matter. Lightly water the lawn to settle the soil and aid in the recovery process. You can also fertilize or overseed your lawn to give it a fresh boost.
\n\n\n\nLearn more about post-aeration lawn care in our guide on What to Do After Aerating Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn once every 2 to 3 years should suffice for most lawns, mainly comprising sandy soil or soil that doesn’t easily compact. If your lawn has clay soil or is subjected to excessive foot traffic or compaction, you should aerate it once every year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSeeding your lawn after aeration can be highly beneficial. The newly formed holes provide an ideal environment for grass seeds to germinate. Spread the seeds evenly with a spreader, water frequently to keep the soil moist, and admire the lovely new growth!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYes, it can! Aeration minimizes soil compaction and improves water drainage, which can help prevent fungal diseases and other pest infestations. To find out more about what aeration can do, see our article on the Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAerating your lawn is essential for its health and vitality. But the thought of when and how to aerate it and the hours spent toiling with the aerator feels daunting. If you’d rather not invest that time and effort, consider seeking the help of a professional lawn care service provider. By hiring a skilled lawn care pro, you can be sure the aeration is effective and your lawn receives the attention it needs for healthier and more beautiful growth.
\n\n\n\nFeatured Image by Juan Rodriguez
\n","title":"When and How to Aerate Your Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":2,"src":"/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/f2cbb/Untitled-design-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/107df/Untitled-design-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/293e9/Untitled-design-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/f2cbb/Untitled-design-1.jpg 800w","srcWebp":"/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/98a65/Untitled-design-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/67b76/Untitled-design-1.webp 320w,\n/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/8df11/Untitled-design-1.webp 500w,\n/static/b9db5211bd5ec9918127d06adb4d6fcc/98a65/Untitled-design-1.webp 800w","sizes":"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When and How to Aerate Your Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If compacted soil is making your lawn thin, follow this guide to learn why, when, and how to aerate your lawn and fix compaction."}}},{"node":{"id":"85163eb4-3d4e-55b7-a216-988dafb66f52","slug":"how-to-identify-grass-fungus","path":"/blog/how-to-identify-grass-fungus/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2022","excerpt":"Is your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them. Contents: What is Grass Fungus? 10 Types of FungusDollar SpotGray Leaf SpotGray Snow MoldPink Snow MoldLeaf SpotNecrotic Ring SpotPowdery MildewRed ThreadBrown PatchSummer Patch […]
\n","content":"\nIs your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nA grass fungus is a microorganism that grows and thrives in the soil. It manifests itself as a fruiting body such as mushrooms or in the form of a disease such as summer patch.
Sometimes the fungus can lie dormant in cooler seasons and start to show itself in hot months, or vice versa. Grass fungus can attack the roots or leaves of your lawn, zapping it of nutrients and often changing its appearance.
\n\n\n\nSeveral of these fungi can result in a number of lawn diseases. Here are the ten most common types of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nThis fungus spreads throughout the yard through infected tools or grass clippings. It may even spread by shoes tracking through the grass. Dollar spot starts in early summer and reaches its peak in late summer. It thrives in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Bentgrass and Zoysia are grasses that are susceptible to this type of fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gray](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-07-29_at_113159_am-1024x504.jpg\")
Gray leaf spot creates an enormous amount of spores that invade grass through cut leaf tips. This fungus targets St. Augustinegrass but can also affect Bermudagrass, ryegrass, centipedegrass, and tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms
\n\n\n\nTreatment
\n\n\n\nGray snow mold is a fungus that grows in winter under snow in temperatures between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, spreading its threads into plant tissues. This disease tends to attack bluegrasses, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescues.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nSimilar to gray snow mold, this fungus attacks the grass leaves, forming a disease that looks like red or coral webs. Unlike gray snow mold, pink snow mold doesn’t require snow to thrive. Annual bluegrasses and bentgrasses are most susceptible to this type of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaf](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_manchas_foliares_-_hongos_sobre_hoja_de_rumex_sp-_leaf_spot_7494223286.jpg\")
Leaf spot develops in early spring and spreads in spring or late fall, attacking the grass crown and roots. This fungus attacks Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_img_2816-1024x768.jpg\")
Necrotic ring spot attacks the roots of grass, creating donut-shaped dead spots. It attacks fine fescue, annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and rough bluegrass.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nThis fungus forms in moist, cool climates when the ground has poor air circulation. It forms on the grass blades, particularly Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_31616759565_dc7c3259f9_c.jpg\")
You can identify red thread by the clusters of red or pink threads throughout your fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, bentgrasses, or bluegrasses. The fungus enters the grass through its blades, spreading to other areas, and is common in rainy seasons of spring and early summer.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch attacks the roots and spreads to the leaves and stems of grass. This fungus attacks fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and bluegrasses.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Summer](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14747617254_dd85aea258_c.jpg\")
Summer patch is a fungus that usually attacks Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, and annual bluegrasses. The fungus attacks the roots of the grass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent a grass fungus from invading your lawn with a few lawn maintenance tips.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a lawn fungus go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. The fungus will spread and get worse over time.
\n\n\n\n2. Are certain grass types more susceptible to lawn fungus than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. For example, Bermudagrass, bluegrasses, and Zoysiagrasses are vulnerable to various types of fungus. Planting a much more resistant species like creeping red fescue will help keep fungus at bay.
\n\n\n\n3. Will mowing the infected lawn spread the disease?
\n\n\n\nYes. The blades of your mower could spread the fungus throughout your yard. To minimize the spread of the pathogens to other parts of your yard via your lawn mower, clean and disinfect the mower blades before each mow.
\n\n\n\nNot sure how to treat the grass fungus invading your lawn? We’ll help you find a lawn care professional in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Flickr/ Kris Lourd/CC BY 2.0
\n","title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg","srcSet":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/107df/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/293e9/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/f2cbb/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1789c/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/a2a79/Red-Thread-disease.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/67b76/Red-Thread-disease.webp 320w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/8df11/Red-Thread-disease.webp 500w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/98a65/Red-Thread-disease.webp 800w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/1dd6e/Red-Thread-disease.webp 960w,\n/static/10e5bfc38ec0472e937ac4654fa07236/7aa54/Red-Thread-disease.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Identify and Treat 10 Types of Grass Fungus | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Is your lawn facing brown patch, snow mold, or fairy ring? We'll show you how to identify the types of grass fungus that has your lawn looking sickly."}}},{"node":{"id":"40e62fa1-78b2-5e3f-badb-a12f7e359f03","slug":"ten-pet-safe-weed-killers","path":"/blog/ten-pet-safe-weed-killers/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 4th, 2022","excerpt":"Removing weeds by hand is time consuming, and many weed killers are dangerous to pets who come into contact with them. Here are 10 pet-safe weed killers that will squash those pesky weeds while keeping your furry friends healthy and happy. Contents: 5 Commercial Pet-Safe Weed Killers 5 DIY Pet-Safe Weed Killers Dangers Of Herbicides […]
\n","content":"\nRemoving weeds by hand is time consuming, and many weed killers are dangerous to pets who come into contact with them. Here are 10 pet-safe weed killers that will squash those pesky weeds while keeping your furry friends healthy and happy.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nMost of the products we’ve picked are certified by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI), a nonprofit group that reviews and certifies organic products.
\n\n\n\nHere are our top five picks for pet-friendly herbicides you can buy online or in most home improvement stores.
\n\n\n\nGet Sunday’s Weed Warrior is certified organic by the USDA and made with OMRI-listed ammonium soap and fatty acids. It’s a non-selective weed and grass killer, meaning it will kill all weeds.
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nOMRI certified as an organic weed killer, Green Gobbler is designed to kill both weeds and the grass growing between sidewalk cracks and pavers. It works on all types of weeds, including dandelions and crabgrass.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nDoctor Kirchner Natural Weed & Grass Killer is a biodegradable weed control that’s made from ocean salt water, vinegar, and soap. The University of Florida found Doctor Kirchner Natural Weed and Grass Killer to be effective in eliminating more than 250 common weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nMade with salt water and concentrated commercial grade white vinegar, Natural Elements is glyphosate-free. It’s effective against common weeds like clover, dandelions, chickweed, crabgrass, thistle, and broadleaf weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPreen Weed Preventer is a pre-emergent weed control, meaning it stops weeds before they sprout, so you have to think ahead and apply it before you see the first weed. It’s safe to use around pets, established flowers, trees, shrubs, and vegetables. It is made from corn gluten meal and does not contain glyphosate.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nA good rule of thumb is to keep your pets off the lawn for 24 hours after applying both pre-emergents and weed killers. Many of these products dissipate with water, so to be certain it’s safe, water your lawn the next day before letting your kids, cats, and dogs play on it.
\n\n\n\nPet parents can make several homemade pet-safe weed killers and avoid exposing their dogs and cats to harsh chemicals.
\n\n\n\nMake a weak solution with three parts water and one part salt. Dissolve rock or table salt in water and pour it into a sprayer. A shot of dish soap will increase its effectiveness.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nPour boiling water over the weeds. Cover the area with cardboard or a tarp for four to six weeks to prevent seeds from germinating.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nLayer a cup of sugar around the base of the weeds, making sure to cover the area surrounding the roots. You may need to reapply another cup in a few days if the weeds are persistent.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nMix 1-cup of borax powder and 2 gallons of warm water in a sealable container. Stir until dissolved and let it rest for at least an hour before pouring it into a spray bottle. Apply it directly to the weeds.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nBoil 2 cups of water and add 10 drops of clove essential oil. Mix well, let cool, and pour into a spray bottle to treat weeds. Sunlight decreases the efficacy of clove oil, so it’s best to spray weeds after sundown.
\n\n\n\nPros:
\n\n\n\nCons:
\n\n\n\nUsing the wrong products while trying to kill weeds could cause serious harm to your four-legged friends. A common active ingredient in chemical weed killers, like Roundup, is glyphosate which is a toxin often overlooked by pet owners.
\n\n\n\nA Purdue University study concludes that common lawn and garden chemicals may increase the risk for cancer in dogs. Those chemicals include dichlorophenoxyacetic acid and 4 -chloro-2.
\n\n\n\n1. How long does it take for my pet to show signs of poisoning?
\n\n\n\nTwo to 36 hours, depending on how much your pet ingested.
\n\n\n\n2. How long does it take for weed killer to dry?
\n\n\n\nSome products dry within 3 hours, however, it’s best to wait for at least 24 hours before allowing pets or people into the treated area. Humidity can affect drying time.
\n\n\n\n3. What do I do if my pet comes in contact with poisonous weed killers?
\n\n\n\nVeterinarians recommend you separate your pet from the poison, make a note of the weed killer they ingested, and contact your vet.
\n\n\n\n4. My vet is closed. What should I do?
\n\n\n\nCall ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435) and the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661) for expert advice or contact your local 24-hour emergency vet.
\n\n\n\n
Got a yard full of weeds but little time to get rid of them? We can help you find an eco-garden pro or lawn care professional who can handle the problem while you and your furry friend relax.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel
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\n","content":"\nLooking for a low-maintenance turf option for your Southern lawn? Do you have predominantly sandy or low-fertility soil that doesn’t support Zoysiagrass or buffalograss? If either of these questions hit home with you, it may be worth a shot to try growing a Bahiagrass lawn instead, and we’ve got all the information you need!
\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass
\n\n\n\nSpreads by: Rhizomes
\n\n\n\nShade tolerance: Low — needs full sun
\n\n\n\nSoil type: Tolerates most soils, does well in sandy loam
\n\n\n\nSoil pH: 5.5-6.5
\n\n\n\nMowing height: 3-4 inches
\n\n\n\nDrought resistance: High
\n\n\n\nFoot traffic tolerance: Low
\n\n\n\nMaintenance needs: With a moderate to high growth rate, it needs frequent mowing
\n\n\n\nPotential for disease: Low
\n\n\n\nInsect pest tolerance: Moderate
\n\n\n\nOther notes: Bahiagrass is grown along the Gulf Coast and in the Southeastern U.S. It does best in acidic soils and is not the best grass if your soil is naturally alkaline. It doesn’t tolerate salt water well.
\n\n\n\nWhile this may come as a surprise to many, Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) is used mainly as a pasture grass and for hay production across the southeastern United States. However, selected varieties—Argentine and Pensacola, especially—work well as turfgrass species for lawns. Behind St. Augustinegrass, Bahia is the second most common turfgrass across much of the southeastern United States, and for a good reason.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is well-adapted to low-fertility soils and is excellent for homeowners wanting a low-maintenance, low-input lawn. It puts down a deep root system that spreads via underground rhizomes. This root system makes it great for areas prone to drought or lawns without an irrigation system. However, Bahia doesn’t form the same dense carpet as other warm-season grasses that spread using above-ground stolons.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is not the best choice for every Southern lawn, but it is ideal in many situations, especially if you have many acres of property to cover.
\n\n\n\n✓ Low water needs
\n\n\n\n✓ Low fertilizer requirements
\n\n\n\n✓ Lower maintenance than many other grass types
\n\n\n\n✓ Deep root system
\n\n\n\n✓ Does well in sandy and other low-fertility soils
\n\n\n\n✓ Minimal insect and disease problems
\n\n\n\n✓ Thatch is generally not a concern
\n\n\n\n✓ Establishes from seed or sod
\n\n\n\n✗ Does not form a dense carpet
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed head stems dull mower blades quickly
\n\n\n\n✗ Seed heads need regular mowing, or they become an eyesore
\n\n\n\n✗ Only a few varieties are available for home lawns
\n\n\n\n✗ Open growth habit leaves space for weeds to grow
\n\n\n\nIf you’re considering switching your lawn to Bahiagrass or using it to start grass at a fresh build, you have the option of seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, some crucial differences between the two methods must be considered when choosing.
\n\n\n\nThere’s no denying that planting grass from seed is by far the cheaper of the two options and is much easier labor-wise to “install.” For homeowners with economic constraints, this makes seeding attractive. On the flip side, if you opt for seeding, the grass needs considerably more babysitting during the establishment process and takes quite a bit of time to grow into a beautiful lawn.
\n\n\n\nLaying sod comes with a pretty hefty price tag, and the process is back-breaking – even more so for Bahiagrass sod, as it tends to fall apart unless you spend extra money for sod with a netting material to hold it together. That being said, once you get it down, you automatically have a nice green lawn, and it doesn’t take micromanaging to get it established like seeding does.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Depending on where you purchase seed from, expect to pay $100-$110 for a 25 lb bag of Pensacola Bahiagrass seed.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: A 400-square-foot pallet of Bahiagrass sod costs approximately $113 to $134.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Seed: Getting grass seed down in late spring or early summer is best. Warm-season grasses like Bahia grow the most when the air temperatures hit a whopping 85 to 95°F, so you want to plant just before temps climb this high. This helps your grass establish as quickly as possible, putting down a sound root system so it is well-prepared to go dormant and survive the winter.
\n\n\n\nNote: Not all grass seeds you scatter will germinate; some Bahiagrass seeds lay dormant and may sprout later in the season.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass Sod: Sod is a little more forgiving timing-wise and can be put down whenever you have time to tackle the project. However! You’ll have a much easier time getting it established if you do it in the spring or fall when temperatures are more moderate.
\n\n\n\nSince Bahia grows a little more sparsely than other turfgrasses, you can overseed your lawn annually with more Bahiagrass seed to keep it as thick as possible. Remember that no matter what you do, it will never grow as thick as Zoysia or other turfs with dense growth habits.
\n\n\n\nYes, I’ve said that Bahiagrass is low-maintenance, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t need your attention at all. Here are the basic rules of Bahiagrass lawn maintenance to follow.
\n\n\n\nIt was mentioned that Bahiagrass is fantastic for large acres and properties without irrigation. This doesn’t mean it will stay green regardless of how little or how much water it gets.
\n\n\n\nWhen you’re growing Bahiagrass without irrigation, it will go into a state of dormancy and turn brown during long periods of drought. Once the rain returns, the grass greens back up and resumes growing. In climates such as Florida, where it rains most days, you may not ever need to give a Bahia lawn supplemental water.
\n\n\n\nIf you can water your lawn, it’s best to keep an eye on it and watch for signs it needs water. You’ll see folded grass blades, a color change, and footprints will remain on the grass after you walk across it. So, if you see these things, turn on the sprinklers and give your grass one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water to get it green and perky.
\n\n\n\nFertilizer specifics will depend on the soil in your yard and how you’ve managed it before. You need to account for soil type, organic matter content, if you’ve mulched clippings back into the lawn, etc. To get an exact recommendation, perform a soil test before seeding or laying sod.
\n\n\n\nAs a general rule of thumb, apply 1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet of yard annually.
\n\n\n\nAlways check local guidelines for lawn fertilizer blackout dates or ordinances regarding its application.
\n\n\n\nDuring the summer, Bahia is known for its characteristic Y-shaped, two- or three-branched seed heads. To keep them in check and your grass looking nice, expect to mow your lawn every one to two weeks. During the hottest parts of summer, you may need to cut it a little more frequently unless you don’t mind the seed heads, but you’ll want to keep your grass 3 to 4 inches tall.
\n\n\n\nThe seed head stems are tough on mower blades, so you may need to sharpen them more frequently than with other grasses. Keeping mower blades sharp will help give you an excellent crisp cut when you mow instead of tearing the tops of the grass off with dull mower blades.
\n\n\n\nKeeping a Bahiagrass lawn weed-free is a challenge since Bahia doesn’t grow as thick or dense as some grass types. Weeds love to come in and reside in those bare spots and compete with your grass for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nTo do this, keep your grass mowed to the proper height, irrigate when you see signs of drought stress, and fertilize throughout the growing season. You can also consider periodically overseeding to help fill in some bare spots where the weeds like to hang out.
\n\n\n\nWhen proper lawn management doesn’t succeed in weed control, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides are available in both chemical and organic formulations. Just stay away from products containing atrazine and metsulfuron because they damage Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nFortunately, Bahia lawns experience very few insect and disease problems. Watch for mole crickets, Bahiagrass billbugs, and fall armyworms, as they may cause issues in Bahiagrass lawns.
\n\n\n\nThe two classifications of turfgrass are distinguished by where they have adapted to grow the best. Warm-season grasses prefer hot summers and mild winters and grow in the South. Cool-season grasses like temperate summers and can tolerate brutal winters; they grow mainly in the northern United States.
Bahiagrass is a warm-season grass.
Bahiagrass is typically grown on sandy soils in coastal areas, so there isn’t a need to aerate, as these soils don’t compact. Also, it isn’t a grass type that develops a lot of thatch, so dethatching isn’t usually necessary.
Sometimes, when it’s growing where it isn’t wanted, Bahiagrass is considered a weed rather than a turfgrass. If Bahiagrass is a weed in your book, and it’s overrunning your lawn, see our guide on how to get rid of Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\nIf you think a Bahiagrass lawn is a good fit for your landscape, contact one of our highly-qualified local lawn professionals. They can help get your lawn started or care for your established turf, giving you more time to spend doing what matters most to you – without sacrificing the quality of your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nYou’re frustrated with fighting the lawn mower and sweating bullets in the hot sun. Maybe it’s time to plant a no-mow grass.
\n\n\n\nSeveral no-mow grasses and low-maintenance grass types only need mowing once or twice a year. Some no-mow grasses are also drought-resistant, so you won’t have to water them either. We’ll start by touting the benefits of a no-mow lawn, then walk you through the best no-mow grass alternatives for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nTable of contents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe term “no-mow grass” may actually be a misnomer. A low-maintenance lawn can also include low-mow grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nSometimes a grass blend will green up your yard without forcing you to spend your late spring and summer months pushing around a lawn mower. Some have the added bonus of needing little watering.
\n\n\n\nWhich of these grass types you choose will depend on your climate, soil type, and preferences.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_5840427371_ea66cae955_c.jpg\")
For colder climates or in transition zones, fine fescue is the most popular cool-season grass for a no-mow or low-mow lawn. A blend of fine and hard fescue, this grass type needs little maintenance and makes it easy to control weed growth.
\n\n\n\nFescue blends require little fertilizer or herbicides. The best part? With fine fescue, you’ll only have to mow your lawn once or twice a year. Fescues tend to perform better when you apply a lawn seed mix, allowing one to thrive if the other doesn’t.
\n\n\n\nNative to the Great Plains, from Montana to Mexico, Buffalograss is a low-growing, warm-season grass. It has individual leaf blades reaching 10 to 12 inches in length. However, the leaf blades fall over, giving it a short appearance.
\n\n\n\n![\"Zoysia](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1024px-zoysia_tenuifolia_aspect.jpg\")
Zoysia tenuifolia only grows about 4 inches tall, making it a great no-mow option in hot and humid Southern states. It’s often called “petting grass” because of its fine blades and deep green color that form soft mounds.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are extremely versatile and grow in any climate, and each is unique in its growth pattern and color. Once you have a landscape design in mind, you’ll be better able to decide which ground cover is best for you. Most ground covers do best when planted in the spring.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are low-maintenance, but preparing the ground and planting them requires some work. You must eliminate all weeds before planting. Once the ground cover is established, add one to two inches of mulch to keep the soil moist and deter weeds.
\n\n\n\nSome popular ground covers are creeping Jenny, sedum, Asiatic Jasmine, creeping thyme, and moss.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash.jpg\")
Schools, stadiums, and government agencies use artificial turf for a pristine look without the maintenance of a grass lawn. Artificial turf is the true definition of no-mow grass. It will never need mowing or fertilizing and can be installed anywhere. It will only need water if you’re cleaning it off or attempting to cool it down.
\n\n\n\nArtificial turf can be hot to the touch in the summer months. There has been a growing health concern about it due to granulated crumb rubber used as filler. The crumbs can be inhaled and are sometimes toxic.
\n\n\n\nIf you need an excuse to put away the mower, “No Mow May” provides it. It’s a month-long holiday to allow grass to grow, creating an inviting habitat for bees and other early-season pollinators. A conservationist group in the U.K. came up with the idea, and it’s growing faster than our lawns in the U.S.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest problem with this eco-friendly initiative is convincing cities and HOAs to relax their regulations for a month. Plant a no-mow grass, and the regulations and long grass fees are one less thing you’ll have to worry about.
\n\n\n\n1. Do I have to tear out my existing lawn and replace it to have a no-mow lawn?
\n\n\n\nYes. You’ll want to tear out your existing lawn before replacing it. Doing that will ensure you’re able to eliminate weeds for a fresh start.
\n\n\n\n2. When is the best time of year to replace my lawn with a no-mow variety?
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time of year to plant most grass types, especially no-mow varieties. You won’t have to water as much, and planting in the spring allows roots to develop and grow deep into the soil before the first fall frost arrives.
\n\n\n\n3. Will a no-mow lawn be as attractive as a high-maintenance lawn?
\n\n\n\nA no-mow lawn is a different kind of attractive. It offers variety: You can have your traditional green look with a fescue blend, buffalo grass, Zoysia tenuifolia, or succulents or flowers with a ground cover.
\n\n\n\n4. Will no-mow grass types grow well in the shade?
\n\n\n\nChewings fescue, creeping red fescue, moss, and creeping thyme all grow well in the shade. Artificial turf will stay cooler in a shady area.
\n\n\n\n5. Are no-mow grasses good for sports fields?
\n\n\n\nArtificial turf is a good option for sports fields. However, some athletes prefer traditional grass because injuries are less severe, and synthetic turf temperatures can be much hotter. The commercial mix of no-mow grass tolerates a good amount of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding your lawn with no-mow grass seeds is an easy job for a DIY-er, but laying new sod may take a lot more time and expertise. We can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Pxhere
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\n","content":"\nDifferent people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of weeds in grass using traditional, synthetic herbicides and safer methods like homemade recipes and manual tips.
\n\n\n\nWith so many ways to get rid of weeds, you do not have to let them confiscate your property.
\n\n\n\nThis article will also cover weed prevention. Keep reading to discover all the options you have for weed control on your lawn.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/5e95d48d-7801-4974-9206-35bbdb36b571.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nWeeds are unwanted plants growing in lawns, gardens, and fields. They compete with wanted vegetation for nutrients. Like any other plant, they can be categorized by their life cycles and type. Weeds can be annuals, biennials, or perennials. These unwanted plants fall into three types: broadleaf, grassy, and grass-like.
\n\n\n\nBefore you can get rid of weeds, you have to identify what type they are so you can choose an effective control method. Not all herbicides or manual removal methods work for all weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLearn a weed’s life cycle to figure out the best time to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides to control that weed.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year and spread by seed. Summer annuals sprout in the spring. They grow in the summer and fall and die in the winter. Crabgrass and goosegrass are some examples. Winter annuals sprout in late summer and early fall. They die when it gets hotter out, in late spring or early summer. Some examples of winter annual weeds are chickweed and henbit.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a two-year life cycle and germinate by seed. They are not as common in lawns as annual and perennial weeds. Common burdock and wild carrot are two examples.
\n\n\n\nPerennial weeds are also spread by seed and by stolons, bulbs, and rhizomes. These weeds are harder to control than annual weeds because they keep coming back, year after year, unless you remove their entire system of growth, including roots, stolons, and rhizomes. Plantain, thistle, and dandelions are some examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSome chemical treatments are only effective for certain types of weeds or specific weeds within a category. So, you must be able to identify the weeds growing in your grass before you can choose a suitable herbicide.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have broad and flat leaves that are not grass-like. Examples are perennials like thistle, plantain, chickweed, dandelions, and henbit.
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds have blades that look like grass. Crabgrass, quackgrass, annual bluegrass, and foxtail are some common grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nGrass-like weeds resemble grass but do not look as much like it as grassy weeds. The blades are triangular or tubular and shiny. Some examples are nutsedge, wild garlic, and wild onion.
\n\n\n\nOnce you have identified the type of weed in your yard, you can select the best organic herbicide, homemade weed killer recipe, synthetic herbicide, or manual removal method to control that specific weed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic herbicides have ingredients that are safer than the toxic chemicals found in traditional synthetic herbicides. However, you typically will not find these organic herbicides in most kitchens, like you would the options listed in the homemade weed killer section.
\n\n\n\nOrganic weed control products with the following active ingredients can be purchased from stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, and other home and garden suppliers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/4a16ada4-5ea8-4f9b-8641-f6c78f02e677.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Olga Kriger / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal acts as a weed and feed product. It kills weed seeds like a pre-emergent herbicide and contains nitrogen to feed the grass.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Corn gluten meal is only effective at preventing weeds and fertilizing grass when the soil is wet, so give the lawn a light spray of water after using this product unless rain is forecasted later in the day to do it for you.
\n\n\n\nApply it before weed seeds germinate – in early spring for summer annuals and early fall for winter annuals – because corn gluten meal does nothing to kill weeds that have already sprouted. The nitrogen it contains can actually promote the growth of existing weeds.
\n\n\n\nMonthly reapplication may be required for lasting control. Corn gluten meal can kill the seeds of weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, henbit, and more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nVinegar is most effective at killing weeds when the vinegar is 20% acetic acid. The vinegar in your kitchen is only around 5% acetic acid, so you will need a special product called herbicidal vinegar to kill weeds. Herbicidal vinegar is a popular active ingredient in organic post-emergent herbicides. It can kill larger weeds and perennials, but multiple treatments are required.
\n\n\n\nThe acetic acid removes moisture from the plant’s foliage, breaking it down and killing the leaves. A natural surfactant, like yucca extract, is usually included in herbicides to help the vinegar solution stick to the weeds’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Herbicidal vinegar is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills all plants it comes into contact with, including grass. Never apply vinegar all over your lawn unless you’re trying to kill the existing grass so you can start a new lawn from scratch. Instead, spot-treat unwanted plants by placing the solution in a spray bottle and spraying weeds directly. Many commercial herbicides with vinegar come in a ready-to-spray bottle.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Herbicidal vinegar can burn the skin and cause severe eye injuries, such as blindness. Wear protective glasses and long sleeves when applying this product.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can also use ingredients already in your kitchen to make a homemade weed killer for your lawn. These DIY concoctions are safer for pets and humans than the chemicals in synthetic herbicides and much more affordable than organic herbicides you can buy at the store, but they may be less effective than either and may take multiple applications to produce results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"apple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/apple-cider-vinegar-next-to-apples-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: tylim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions are a commonly used DIY weed control method. The following are mixtures you can make using regular kitchen vinegar.
\n\n\n\nWhite Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 gallon of white vinegar
— 1 tablespoon of dish soap
— 1 cup of salt
Apple Cider Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— ½ gallon of apple cider vinegar
— ¼ cup of salt
— 1 teaspoon of dish soap
How to Apply: Mix the ingredients thoroughly and place the solution in a handheld spray bottle. Spray directly to weeds on a sunny day. The sun helps the acetic acid in the vinegar work.
\n\n\n\nThis non-selective DIY weed control will kill most broadleaf weeds and other plants, too, so be careful not to spray it directly on your grass. Solutions with 5% acetic acid may not kill dandelions and other plants with taproots. Use herbicidal vinegar for these types of stubborn weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt can change the pH level of the soil, make it sterile, and hurt plants, including weeds. The downside is that salt will also hurt grass and other landscape plants, so apply it only on the soil around weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: You can start with a 3-to-1 water-to-salt ratio and increase the amount of salt daily until it kills the weeds. Learn more in our in-depth article about using salt to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf preserving soil health is not a concern, apply a mixture with a 1:2 or 1:3 water-to-salt ratio. Add a small amount of liquid dish soap or white vinegar to make the weed killer stronger.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location with icy winters, you may have some rock salt on hand. This is the salt that eats away the ice. You can sprinkle some directly on the weeds or make a solution.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 cup of rock salt
— 1 gallon of hot water
How to Apply: Mix until the salt is dissolved. Pour into a spray bottle. Spray weeds directly. Respray the weeds after five days. Reapply the spray after waiting another five days. Avoid saturating the roots, as this can damage the soil and nearby plants. To protect your grass and ornamentals, water nearby vegetation after applying the salt solution to dilute it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBoil some water and pour it onto the weeds. This option, like all DIY weed killers, will damage your grass and other surrounding plants if it makes contact.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: It is best to place the hot water in a vessel with a spout, like a teapot. Allow it to soak into the plant roots. However, it may not kill the roots, which can result in weed regrowth.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRubbing alcohol kills weeds by draining moisture from the leaves. It will also drain moisture from grass blades and the foliage of other plants, so be sure to spray it directly onto the weeds, and do your best to avoid overspray.
\n\n\n\nRubbing Alcohol Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 2 tablespoons of alcohol
— 1 quart of water
How to Apply: Mix the solution in a spray bottle. Spray weeds individually, covering the leaves as much as possible with the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSynthetic herbicides come as pre-emergent, post-emergent, or as weed and feed products. These herbicides come with precautions as well as do’s and don’ts to be effective and not cause damage. Here are some examples:
\n\n\n\n— Be sure to use these at the right time of year and in the right temperature range. Pre-emergents and post-emergents work at different times, and if applied at the wrong time, they won’t do much at all.
— Synthetic herbicides can injure grass if applied during the wrong stage of your lawn’s growth. For example, pre-emergent products typically should only be applied to turfgrass that has been established for at least 12 months.
— Certain types of herbicides can only be used on certain grass types. Read product labels to find out which grass types it’s safe to use each product on.
— Not all chemicals kill all weeds. Some chemicals only work on broadleaf weeds, while others only work on grassy weeds. Some are even formulated to kill specific weed types. Read the product label carefully before purchasing a herbicide to make sure what you’re getting will actually work for the weeds on your lawn.
— Applying pre-emergents too soon after overseeding the lawn can prevent the new grass seeds from germinating.
Pre-emergent products must be applied before weed seeds start germinating. These herbicides kill weed seeds, but they do not kill grown weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are for preventing future weeds, not getting rid of existing ones.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: Administer in the spring for summer annual weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass. Apply when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees Fahrenheit or above for about 2 days or more.
\n\n\n\nFor winter annual weeds, like annual bluegrass and chickweed, apply in the early fall. The best time is when the soil temperature is approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 3 days.
\n\n\n\nA note on soil temperature: Applying pre-emergents at the right soil temperature is imperative to their success, so use a soil thermometer to get an accurate reading. A soil thermometer costs about $10 or less at a local gardening store or online.
\n\n\n\nSelective vs Non-selective: Most pre-emergent herbicides used for lawn weeds are selective herbicides, meaning they kill specific weed seeds without damaging other plants.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective herbicides, on the other hand, target all plants. To avoid eliminating wanted plants and grass, spot-treat unwanted vegetation by applying non-selective herbicides with a handheld sprayer. These herbicides will also prevent grass from growing, so do not use them when you have recently seeded the lawn or plan to seed the lawn in the near future.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides kill weeds that are sprouting. Weeds that are young and actively growing are the most susceptible to these types of herbicides.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: For perennial weeds and many types of annual weeds, the best time to apply post-emergent products is in the fall or late spring. Treat stubborn perennial weeds with deep root systems in the early spring. Apply when the soil temperature is greater than 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the air temperature is less than 85 degrees.
\n\n\n\nContact vs Systemic: Like pre-emergent chemicals, post-emergents come as selective and non-selective. However, unlike pre-emergents, post-emergents destroy plant parts, such as stems and roots. They do this in different ways.
\n\n\n\nContact-based post-emergent herbicides kill only the plant parts they come into contact with. They destroy parts above the ground, like the leaves. Completely killing weeds with contact herbicides may take many treatments, and you’ll have to manually remove the roots to prevent the weeds from coming back.
\n\n\n\nSystemic post-emergents kill the entire plant regardless of contact with specific parts. The weed absorbs the chemicals, which travel through the vegetation and attack its vascular system. The leaves, stems, and root systems are destroyed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Seed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/seed-spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides that also include lawn fertilizer. If applied at the right time, weed and feed can improve your grass and promote a thriving, green lawn at the same time as removing weeds. A healthy lawn decreases the risk of weed growth in the future.
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed is somewhat controversial because it combines herbicides and fertilizer, two types of chemicals that have different requirements for application. For example, grass needs to be fertilized at specific times to be healthy. If the timing to apply the weed control portion is not the same as the timing for the fertilizer, you can damage the grass. Do not apply weed and feed more than two times a year. Always read the label to know when to apply.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor pre-emergent, post-emergent, and weed and feed chemicals, read the labels to determine if the herbicide controls the weeds you are looking to manage, can be used on your grass type, and at what stage your grass is safe from being damaged by the chemicals.
\n\n\n\nFor weed and feeds, make sure the time of year the herbicide should be used is the same as the time your grass requires fertilization.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPulling weeds by hand or using a tool may be a little more time-consuming than other DIY methods or using synthetic chemicals. It may take more effort, too. The benefit is that manual methods will not release substances that can harm you, your loved ones, or the environment or change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/weeds.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Artur Henryk Bialosiewicz / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThese methods are best when you have a few weeds, and they are young. Wear gloves when removing weeds manually.
\n\n\n\nHow to Pull Weeds By Hand or With a Tool: Water the area or wait until after it rains. The wet ground makes it easier to pull up roots. Dig around the weed with a pointed garden trowel or weeding tool to loosen the soil. Use your hand or tool to pull up as much of the root system as possible so the weed will not grow back.
\n\n\n\nFor some weeds, like crabgrass, only pull by hand or tool when the seed head is closed. If you pull when the head is open, the seeds will spread and replant.
\n\n\n\nFor nutsedge, pull it by hand if the plant has fewer than five leaves. If there are many of these weeds, use a dethatcher or hoe.
\n\n\n\nAs you can see, whether you are applying DIY mixtures, synthetic chemicals, or manual methods, it is important to be able to identify the types of weeds you have so that you use the best weed control solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis device is also called a flame weeder. It is a propane tank with a wand attached that allows you to burn weeds. The flame weeder kills leaves and stem cells but does not kill the roots. It may take multiple treatments to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nObviously, since weed torches use an open flame to kill weeds, they can also harm your grass, or worse, you. Always wear protective clothing and a face covering when using a weed torch, and be very careful to keep the flame away from your grass and other plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare / License
\n\n\n\nThe best way to manage weeds is through prevention by practicing appropriate seasonal lawn care and maintenance. A dense and healthy lawn with grass at an adequate height can crowd out and prevent weed seeds from getting sufficient sun. Weeds will be less likely to sprout because they cannot get the water, nutrients, and space they need to grow.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of grass types: warm-season and cool-season grasses. Each type and the individual grasses within each type determine maintenance requirements, like mowing heights and the amount of fertilizer required. But here are some lawn maintenance practices that can be applied to grass in general for a weed-free lawn:
\n\n\n\nHow long does it take for a salt solution to kill weeds?
\n\n\n\nSalt usually kills weeds in about 10 days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs herbicidal vinegar dangerous?
\n\n\n\nVinegar containing more than 11% acetic acid can burn your skin and cause eye injuries, including blindness. Wear gloves, goggles, and protective clothing when using herbicidal vinegar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any chemicals that can be used on both cool and warm-season grass?
\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a pre-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on most warm and cool-season grass types. The post-emergent chemicals sulfentrazone and halosulfuron are safe for most types of grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFortunately, you have options to get rid of weeds in grass. The goal is not only to stop weeds before they sprout or kill them after sprouting but to have a healthy lawn that outcompetes weeds. For help keeping your lawn as thick and thriving as it can be, reach out to a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn and find out how much a regular lawn maintenance plan would cost for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SchulteProductions / Canva Pro / License
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\n","content":"\nAn uneven lawn causes drainage problems along with tripping hazards. We’ll show you how to level your lawn and keep it level.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nYou can prepare your uneven lawn for leveling with just three easy steps. It’s crucial to level your lawn on a dry day to avoid a big muddy mess.
\n\n\n\nAssess the severity of the problem before you dig in. A few low spots are an easy fix, but if your lawn has significant damage, it will take a few extra steps to smooth it out.
\n\n\n\nFor the smaller bumps and ruts in your lawn, you can level it out with topdressing, a garden rake, a shovel, and a few DIY steps.
\n\n\n\nIf you have to cover up existing grass with the soil mixture, don’t worry. New grass growth will pop up through the soil soon, as long as you stick to the one-half-inch rule.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you’ve applied the top dressing to uneven areas that didn’t have much grass growing before you started, you’ll need to overseed those spots to help them recover.
\n\n\n\nIf you have numerous low and high areas or more of the lawn needs work, you can save it with a little more effort.
\n\n\n\nIf your lawn has more craters than the moon, you’ll need to:
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Do not use a heavy roller to lay down fresh sod or correct a bumpy lawn. A lawn roller can lead to further compaction and damage your healthy grass.
\n\n\n\nKnowing what causes your lawn to become uneven can help you fix it. Check your property for these possible issues:
\n\n\n\nAfter you’ve done all the hard work to level your lawn, you’ll want it to stay level. Proper lawn care and maintenance can prevent unnecessary damage and prevent new dips and bumps from emerging.
\n\n\n\n1. Why should I level my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAn uneven lawn will not only lower your home’s curb appeal, it can also be dangerous. Dips and bumps could cause you to trip, resulting in injuries, and poor drainage leads to water damaging your home’s foundation.
\n\n\n\n2. When is the best time to level my lawn?
\n\n\n\nMarch through September is the best time to level your lawn, when the grass is actively growing.
\n\n\n\n3. Does the topdressing help my lawn?
\n\n\n\nTopdressing mixed with compost rejuvenates and strengthens existing grass, improves the soil, and combats other problems like disease and weeds.
\n\n\n\n4. When should I avoid leveling my lawn?
\n\n\n\nAvoid leveling if your lawn is suffering from drought, pests, disease, or when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Address these issues before you begin.
\n\n\n\nDon’t let an uneven lawn get you down. If you don’t have the time or energy to level it yourself, rely on a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
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