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How a Modern-Day ‘Victory Garden’ Can Help You Through the Coronavirus Pandemic As the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to […]
\n","content":"\nAs the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to lay in enough food, water, medicine, disinfectants, and other supplies to last for several weeks of self-isolation.
\n\n\n\nDuring uncertain times like these, it’s natural to wonder whether you could practice social distancing and simultaneously minimize your long-term dependency on the grocery store by growing food and natural remedies in your own backyard. The answer is yes — with plenty of planning, effort, and time (which, if you’re stuck at home, you’ll have more of than usual). Here are things to think about, plus tips for preparing, planting, and maintaining a garden that can help you survive an emergency.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t have to become a full-blown prepper or try to survive exclusively off the land. Think of it more like the victory gardens your grandparents or great-grandparents may have planted. You can grow some herbs and vegetables in pots on a balcony or convert a large portion of your yard to staple crops, or anything in between. Either way:
\n\n\n\nAnyone! Obviously, the space you have and the time you’re willing to spend will determine the scale. Few people can completely support themselves, especially right away — but anything you grow helps your budget and saves a trip to the store.
\n\n\n\nEspecially if you’re new to the gardening game, it can help to:
\n\n\n\nIf you want good results, you can’t just start sticking plants in the ground. Gardening depends on a lot of factors, and you need to consider them first. (THEN you can start sticking plants in the ground!)
Think about:
\n\n\n\nThe country’s median garden size is about 96 square feet (8 feet by 12 feet). That’s very close to 100 square feet — the ideal size for a summer vegetable garden that can fill the needs of one person.
\n\n\n\nSo, how much food can a space like that yield? One gardener writing for Mother Earth News calculated her 100-square-foot plot’s annual yield at 77.5 pounds of tomatoes, 15.5 pounds of bell peppers, 14.3 pounds of lettuce, 2.5 pounds of basil, and 126 pounds of zucchini!
\n\n\n\nAlso pay attention to the amount of sun and shade your intended plot will get, so you can decide which plants should go where. Lots of gardening websites offer garden planners to help you visualize and design your plot.
\n\n\n\nA clean water supply is important, of course. Unless your area gets a lot of rainfall, you’ll probably be watering from your household water supply by hand, hose, or sprinkler. It’s easy to install a water filter to prevent chlorine, salts, and other chemicals from getting into your soil and your food — there are filters that screw right onto your garden hose!
\n\n\n\nYou’ll also need fertile soil that’s been tilled or loosened and is free of rocks and debris. If you’re converting a yard from turf, turning the soil for the first time will be one of the most time- and labor-intensive steps in the process. Prepare yourself now!
\n\n\n\nYou can learn things about your soil in the process, including its history of pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer use. You’ll also get to know the consistency of the soil texture — what proportions of sand, silt, clay, or loam it contains — plus how much rock you’ll need to remove.
\n\n\n\nA garden will take up as much time as you give it, but most sources seem to agree that once plants are in the ground and growing, you’ll devote at minimum 5-10 hours per week to planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc.
\n\n\n\nAlso, when starting a survival garden, you probably want the period from planting to harvest to take as little time as possible, so consider sowing some fast-growing plants in your first crop. (See 17 Fastest-Growing Backyard Crops, below, for suggestions.)
There are some basic tools every backyard gardener needs to begin with, including:
\n\n\n\nOnce your garden starts growing and you get a little deeper in, you also might need:
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When it comes to selecting crops for a survival garden, everybody has different needs and tastes. Here’s a basic example of the types of staple crops you can plant:
\n\n\n\nThese veggies have different growing seasons, which can allow you to start a few kinds of plants at a time and focus on establishing them before it’s time to get the next crop going. (Just make sure to plan your garden layout with enough room for everybody.) This also means there should be something new that’s ready to harvest throughout most of the year.
\n\n\n\nThere are plenty of different lenses to help you focus your plant choices. You can consider growing time; ease of cultivation; protein, calorie or vitamin content. Luckily, many plants show up on multiple lists and grow well in your area. If you like to eat them (and bonus: if your kids like to eat them), then give them a try in your victory garden!
\n\n\n\nRemember growing bean sprouts in school? There’s a reason kindergarten teachers everywhere choose them: The seeds sprout and turn in visible results in almost no time.
| Food | Average days from sowing to harvest |
| green onions | 20-30 days |
| radishes | 25 days |
| spinach | 30 days |
| arugula | 30 days |
| carrots | 30-50 days |
| lettuce | 30-45 days |
| summer squash/ zucchini | 35 days |
| bush beans | 60 days |
| bok choy | 45-60 days |
| cucumbers | 50 days |
| beets | greens: 30 days / roots: 50 days |
| okra | 50-55 days |
| kale | 50-65 days |
| snow peas | 60 days |
| broccoli | 60 days |
| turnips | greens: 40 days / roots: 60 days |
Start your first survival garden season with some of these fast-growing crops, and you could be harvesting dinner within a few months.
Some crops are just easier than others. First-timer? You might want to stick with the crops easiest to grow in your area. Got some dirt under your nails? Go for the more finicky varieties.
\n\n\n\n| Easier-to-grow crops | Harder-to-grow crops |
| cucumbers | arugula |
| garlic | bok choy |
| green beans | broccoli |
| kale | cauliflower |
| lettuce | eggplant |
| peas | mustard greens |
| potatoes | onions |
| radishes* | radishes* |
| summer squash/ zucchini | spinach |
*Wondering why radishes show up on both the easy-to-grow and hard-to-grow lists? Because it’s easy to get radishes sprouted and growing, but not always easy to keep this cool-weather plant from bolting (prematurely flowering and going to seed before producing food) in warm weather. The same is true for many on the hard-to-grow list.
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If you’re trying to keep your family fed in a crisis situation, calories (boosting them, that is — not cutting them down!) may become more important than you ever thought possible. These are among the most calorie-dense crops you can plant.
| Food | Average calories |
| sunflower seeds | 700 kcals per cup (shelled) |
| avocado | 370 kcals per cup (puréed) |
| soybeans | 300 kcals per cup |
| potatoes | 260 kcals each (medium) |
| lima beans | 210 kcals per cup |
| corn | 130 kcals per ear |
| sweet potatoes | 130 kcals each (medium) |
| pinto beans | 80 kcals per cup |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Protein is also important for maintaining proper health. There are plenty of ways to get protein into your garden and onto your plate.
| Food | Average protein per cup |
| soybeans | 68 grams |
| pumpkin seeds | 36 grams |
| pinto beans | 28 grams |
| quinoa | 24 grams |
| buckwheat | 22 grams |
| peanuts | 16 grams |
| chickpeas | 14 grams |
| broccoli | 2.5 grams |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Besides legumes and grains, many green veggies are high in protein — such as broccoli, which contains more protein per calorie than steak. (You’d just have to eat many more mouthfuls of greens to get the same number of calories as you’d get from the animal products.)
A smart way to reduce food waste and get more of the crops you already like to eat is to regrow food from cuttings. This also saves unnecessary trips to the store or garden center. If you’ve never done this before, now is a great time to start. Here are some foods you can regrow.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/foods-grow-from-cuttings-424x1024.png\")
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Both in the soil and in your home, vegetables in your survival garden will be complemented by other plants. Medicinal herbs can replace store-bought supplements or pharmaceuticals in healing injury and relieving illnesses, and other plants can help you replace household items.
\n\n\n\nSelf-sufficiency is always a great feeling, but it’s of much greater importance during a crisis. If store-bought pharmaceuticals are unavailable, you might be able to harvest something from the garden to help relieve an injury or malady. These are some conditions that have been treated using medicinal herbs:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/medicinal-gardening-plants-515x1024.png\")
For centuries, people have made tea from the leaves of various plants to relieve certain ailments. Here are some plants that make herbal teas believed to offer health benefits:
\n\n\n\nBecause of their natural antiseptic and pain-relieving benefits, these plants can be made into topical applications — oils, ointments, washes, poultices, or salves — to relieve skin irritation, inflammation, or muscular pain, as well as heal cuts, scrapes, bruises, and burns.
\n\n\n\nSome medicinal plants look like other plants that can be toxic or even deadly, so make sure you pay attention. (And remember: This is by no means a comprehensive list!)
\n\n\n\nAlso, some plants have similar names. For example, don’t confuse black cohosh — used for easing menstrual cramps and hot flashes — with blue cohosh, which can cause miscarriage in pregnant women. The raw berries also can cause vomiting and diarrhea in children if ingested.
Hopefully, you won’t run out of toilet paper or any of the next-most-useful replacements like tissues, napkins, or paper towels. But if you get to the point of looking for rugged, old-school solutions, leaves are your best bet. Check your backyard. The following trees and plants are good candidates because of the size, softness, thickness, and durability of their leaves. As a bonus, they also generally don’t contain any skin-irritating chemicals.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/leaves-toilet-paper-530x1024.png\")
If you don’t already have access to any of these, it might not be a bad idea to plant a few — just in case. Mullein, mallow, lamb’s ear, and asters do well in gardens across the U.S. Corn lily and thimbleberry are mountainous and grow best at higher altitudes. (Remember: It’s important to make sure you know exactly what a plant is before you use it on any part of your body.)
Of course you’ve stocked plenty of rope among your supplies. But what happens if it gets lost, stolen, or somehow compromised? You make your own rope, of course — armed with know-how, plenty of time, immense patience, no small amount of labor, and any of these plants.
![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/plants-to-use-for-rope-792x1024.png\")
Some of these fibrous plants will work better than others in your garden. Milkweed complements mainstream garden life, encouraging butterflies that help with pollination. Conversely, because of their unfriendly properties, dogbane and stinging nettle require a more out-of-the-way spot.
The United States is immense, so there’s no single typical growing season or harvest period. Instead, the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture has designated “plant hardiness zones” to guide planting all across the country. The zones are determined by the lowest winter temperatures (historically averaged) as they occur across the geographic areas of the U.S.
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Hardiness zone maps are also accessible by state or by region. Using them to figure out the specific temperature range for your area can help you gauge which plants will grow best and last longest.
\n\n\n\nOnce you know your zone, you can begin to figure out a timetable that will work for gardening in your area. Several websites provide a planting and harvest calendar for each zone, as well as suggestions for vegetables and general planting advice.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve decided what to grow and planned where and when to grow it, it’s finally time for the how: Get your hands dirty and dig into the soil!
\n\n\n\nRaised beds
\n\n\n\nOne of the most common gardening methods, planting in raised beds involves turning the bed soil, then adding more soil and compost on top. Beds can be contained in boxes where the entire surface is raised, or soil can be formed into mounds or rows above the original surface. A raised-bed design can offer several advantages:
\n\n\n\nHills
\n\n\n\nYou’ve heard the expression “doesn’t amount to a hill of beans?” Yep, beans grow best in hills. Planting in hills (or mounds) works well for vining plants like beans, squash, cucumbers, and melons. Often they’re planted with a vertical frame for the vines to climb.
\n\n\n\nRows
\n\n\n\nTraditional gardens planted in rows can be especially useful for supporting large crops like corn, canning tomatoes, potatoes and other produce that takes up a lot of room.
\n\n\n\nWhen your food is coming from it, you want to make sure your soil is as clean, chemical-free, and nutritious as possible. If you or previous land occupants have used pesticides or herbicides in the bed soil, you’ll probably want to make raised beds and add organic soil and compost. After that, adding an annual layer of compost adds nutrients and continually improves the soil.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers From the Kitchen
\n\n\n\nYou’re also probably looking for a shorter timeline than it takes for a compost pile to “ripen” for use, so meanwhile, you can divert these classic compost ingredients directly into the soil as DIY fertilizers:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/things-to-add-to-soil-compost.png\")
Vegetables and other plants vary in the forms they best grow from: seeds or seedlings. Here’s an overview of each type, plus some advice on getting them started:
\n\n\n\nTo grow some vegetables, you can just stick a seed in the ground, let it germinate, and cultivate it from there. Easier than cuttings, and cheaper than seedlings! These plants include:
\n\n\n\nThe basics of planting seeds, of course, are the much the same as for any type of planting:
\n\n\n\nCreative planting tip: Did you know you can sprout seeds in eggshells? Simply take several clean, empty shells, carefully poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each, then set into an egg carton. Fill each shell with some potting soil, sprinkle a few seeds of your choice, then lightly rake a little soil over them. Set in a sunny spot and keep moist with a mister until leaves sprout. Then, you can plant the entire thing into a pot, and the eggshell will fertilize the plant it helped sprout! This can also be done with hollowed-out citrus peels.
\n\n\n\nSome plants are notoriously hard to germinate from seeds and/or keep alive. Seedlings are more mature and stronger (as well as more pest-resistant) when they’re transplanted, so you’re less likely to lose plants at the beginning. Plants grown from seedlings also mature faster, getting you to harvest sooner.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/EvElFSghgX6CRJsBbzhdgW8IBwqB2VQdCWHX82pxMRbEMLUZ2xKkrbPyO2RRH-sP__hp1iw3HS_ZOS7aPx0QSCPsHKlOHY6dJsT5IZ8DMPUoLv0VOF574z4yYHiaZ6YAFFyAi6aU\")
Once they’re in the ground and doing their thing, your job is to keep watch over your plants and protect them from all the things that can cause them harm. Fortunately, there are several creative gardening hacks to help you tend your plants and help them grow. Here are just a few.
\n\n\n\nThese are the planting seasons for vegetables, some fruits, and herbs in different parts of the country.
\n\n\n\n| What and When to Plant in the U.S. | ||||
| Region | Spring (March-May) | Summer (June-Aug) | Fall (Sept-Nov) | Winter (Dec-Feb) |
Pacific Northwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | apples, artichokes, arugula, asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, blueberries, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, greens, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, onions, parsnips, peas, pears, pole beans, potatoes, pumpkins, raspberries, radishes, scallions, shallots, snap peas, snow peas, strawberries, spinach, sorrel | bush beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, eggplants, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, peppers, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, summer squash, tomatoes, turnips, winter squash, parsley, rhubarb | fava beans, garlic, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, chives | |
West Coast (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | beans, beets, blackberries, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, green beans, kale, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, tomatoes, turnips, basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary | beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, corn, cucumbers, onions, peppers, radishes, squash, tomatoes | beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, peas, spinach, squash | |
South Central and Southwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3b-11a) | asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, cantaloupes, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, figs, garlic, cherry tomatoes, melons, okra, onions, peanuts, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, scallions, snap peas, spinach, tomatoes, watermelons, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley | beans, beets, cantaloupes, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, gourds, kale, lettuce, melons, mustard greens, okra, peanuts, peas, tomatoes, tomatillos, turnips, beans, sweet peppers, hot peppers, watermelon, basil, cilantro, dill | arugula, beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, garlic, kale, leek, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsnips, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, cilantro, dill, parsley | beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, lettuce,snow peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley |
Midwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-7b) | apples, arugula, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, cantaloupe, cauliflower, carrots, chard, cherries, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, lima beans, parsnips, peaches, peas, pears, persimmons, potatoes, radishes, radicchio, scallions, spinach, squash (summer and winter), strawberries, turnips, watermelon, basil, chives, cilantro, fennel, parsley, sorrel, summer savory, witch hazel | arugula, beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, okra, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, pumpkin, scallions, squash (summer and winter), turnips, watermelon, basil, cilantro, parsley, sorrel | arugula, broccoli, cabbage, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips | |
| Southeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 5b-11a) | broccoli, blackberries, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, eggplant, figs, lettuce, okra, onions, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, sweet potatoes, basil, cilantro, dill, lavender, oregano, thyme, witch hazel | beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, kale, lima beans, pole beans, tomatoes, watermelon, winter squash | chard, kale, onions, pumpkins, rosemary, turnips | |
| Northeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-8a) | beets, broccoli, cantaloupe, carrots, corn, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, melons, sweet peppers, snap peas, squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, basil, chamomile, ginger, mint, parsley, witch hazel | beets, bok choy, broccoli, cantaloupe, cabbage, carrots, chard, corn, greens, cucumbers, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, pole beans, snap beans, snap peas, snow peas, spinach, squash, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, arnica, basil, borage, chamomile, dill, fennel, marshmallow, oregano, parsley, purslane, skullcap, thyme | arugula, beets, broccoli, garlic, greens (mesclun, rapini, mache, frisee, etc.), kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips,cilantro, chamomile, echinacea, holy basil, lemon balm, oregano, purslane, skullcap, sorrel, thyme | arugula, kale, lettuce, basil, cilantro, dill(start indoors in pots) |
Aerating – Loosening soil or compost to allow air to circulate
\n\n\n\nAnnuals – Varieties that complete their life cycle in one year or less, requiring sowing every year. Annual flower varieties often bloom profusely and over a long period of time.
\n\n\n\nBiennials – Varieties, both flowers and vegetables, that complete their life cycle in two years, usually just showing only leaf growth the first year, and flowers the next
\n\n\n\nCompanion planting – Planting different plants together that benefit one another. For example, sowing a plant that attracts pollinators next to a plant that requires pollination; corn, squash, and beans are common companions.
\n\n\n\nCutting – Developing a new plant by cutting a piece of leaf, stem, root, or bud from a parent plant, then inserting it into a growing medium (water or soil) to form roots
\n\n\n\nComposting – Using decomposed plant material to replenish soil nutrients while reducing landfill waste
\n\n\n\nFertilizing – Adding organic or synthetic material to soil or plant to improve the nutrient value and help plants grow stronger
\n\n\n\nGermination – The moment when a seed begins to grow
\n\n\n\nHydroponics – Growing plants in water instead of soil
\n\n\n\nPlanting/ sowing – Putting seeds in soil and allowing them to germinate and grow
\n\n\n\nPerennials – Varieties that grow and flower for two or more years. These can be evergreen or may die back to the ground but will grow again the following season.
\n\n\n\nPollination – The fertilization of a flower by wind, insect, birds, etc., resulting in a seed, sometimes surrounded by an edible fruit
\n\n\n\nSeedling – Tiny plant developing from a germinated seed, ready for planting
\n\n\n\nThinning – Reducing the number of seedlings so remaining plants are spaced properly to grow
\n\n\n\nTransplanting – Transferring a plant to a different growing space or medium
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones – Zones designated for planting as determined by the historical, average, lowest winter temperature in specified geographic areas of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nVariety – A species that has naturally formed a unique characteristic distinguishing it from similar plants (For example, kale and kohlrabi each adapted unique characteristics that differ from cabbage, the original species from which they came.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5086792452830189,"src":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/107df/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/293e9/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/f2cbb/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/19c60/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 1999w","srcWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/67b76/social-distancing-backyard.webp 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/8df11/social-distancing-backyard.webp 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/98a65/social-distancing-backyard.webp 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/acfdf/social-distancing-backyard.webp 1999w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"ba45de85-91e3-5ed4-bcd4-3024564b646a","slug":"lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving","path":"/blog/lawn-mowing-and-maintenance-in-dallas-plano-irving/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Tina Hill is a landscape designer who stages homes before they go on the market. She recently remodeled her own backyard to include covered hardscaped areas along with an outdoor kitchen and fireplace.","name":"Tina Hill","id":"05b33636-8a93-5cbe-a32e-4d72278ff06f","path":"/author/tina-hill/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f78fd5fd50db11dcceecbeb20de206e?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"f27be613-d60f-50d6-bb69-080e785141e0","name":"Dallas","count":20,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/dallas/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2022","excerpt":"A maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are […]
\n","content":"\nA maintenance-free lawn doesn’t exist in North Texas. That’s the first thing to keep in mind when you think about your yard in Dallas or Plano or Irving. Because the growing season is so long, you’ll be putting work into your yard long after homeowners in cooler climates have put away the mower. Here are some tips to lawn mowing and maintenance in North Texas.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe key here is not to “scalp” your grass, meaning cut it too short. Scalping lets precious water evaporate more quickly in the Texas heat. It also stresses your grass, leaving it vulnerable to diseases and pests. Your lawn is most likely a warm-season variety like St. Augustinegrass, Zoysia grass, buffalograss or Bermudagrass. Your proper grass length depends on the variety you have.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend St. Augustine be cut 2 to 2.5 inches tall. The recommended height for common Bermuda is 1.25 to 1.5 inches tall. Zoysias should be between 2 to 3 inches tall, and buffalograss is the longest, with a recommended height of 3 to 4 inches. Look to mow the lawn about once a week during the hot season. Pro tip: mow in a different direction each time. This helps the blades of the grass stand up straight and prevent ruts. The grass will most likely be dormant from about November to early March.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/SPQeqvQ6uMk7cMElBDUFbYM1ustCr3YbH-zwCAxan81fLDKrx77uFe8taJ0ZYyDkBxGA-WdL7l9txXMvtPLIQJFTefe5HefL-zb1DKtCU59NI1FmHe7QwhTw1ifQE8LXcg\")
Don’t bag those clippings. The clippings add vital nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. As long as you mow at the proper height, the clippings will break down quickly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_11pixnio-46676-6144x4096-1.jpg\")
Sharpen the blades, change the oil and spark plugs once a year. Dull blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it, leaving it susceptible to disease and pests.
\n\n\n\nSome make a ritual out of applying weed and feed to their lawns every Super Bowl Sunday in February. This counts as “early spring” in Texas, and the grass is beginning to green up. That’s when you need to fertilize your lawn. The rule of thumb is generally between February and April. This is also the time to stop weeds in their tracks — before they ever get a firm root in your yard. You can also find weed and feed mixtures that contain fire ant killer, to keep the nasty little insects from digging up mounds of dirt in your lawn and biting you.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RlVQn9EJ-aojgCh7tRmrSbz18RBq6WSySSIjeOIaXKZFzGZ4oiV4yo0xVM45-4P97x6HMDcARpfMYt1TUuGapaqJ6uuYWqK2Zka5OdU4a9HHakvPIYiWNdxHJCQKg16tKA\")
Your lawn needs a good long drink every five to ten days, generally. Keep that in mind before you overwater the grass. Also, your city probably has ordinances or recommendations on what days you can water and what time. Use your sprinkler two times a week, and don’t water between 10 am and 6 pm. In most cases, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and hand watering are allowed any day of the week. Ideally, you water early in the morning — giving your grass a good drink of water, but allowing the droplets on the blades to evaporate over the daytime hours. This lowers your lawn’s risk of fungus problems.
The key to a lush, green lawn in north Texas is consistency over the course of the long, hot growing season. If you begin tending to it on a regular basis when it first begins to green, and maintain it through the triple-digit temperatures of the summer, and into the fall, it will reward you with beautiful, emerald green grass.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a cool-season grass survive in north Texas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and tall fescue will grow better in fall and winter, but they will survive a north Texas summer. Cool-season grasses are not recommended further south where it gets much warmer.
\n\n\n\n2. Are some grass types more shade-tolerant than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, and centipedegrass are the most shade tolerant warm season grasses for the Dallas area.
\n\n\n\n3. Is it possible to keep a green lawn year-round in Dallas?
\n\n\n\nYes. Southern blue is a hybrid turf that mixes Texas bluegrass with Kentucky bluegrass and stays green even in winter. This cool-season grass is also drought-resistant and does well in the shade. Southern blue is not recommended by south Texas.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNeed help mowing and maintaining your lawn? We can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n","title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.6204379562043796,"src":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg","srcSet":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/107df/lawn-mowing.jpg 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/293e9/lawn-mowing.jpg 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/7e2e0/lawn-mowing.jpg 666w","srcWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/67b76/lawn-mowing.webp 320w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/8df11/lawn-mowing.webp 500w,\n/static/358255b99ee43c9a2f24cac4f073ec13/a66c8/lawn-mowing.webp 666w","sizes":"(max-width: 666px) 100vw, 666px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Lawn Mowing And Maintenance in Dallas-Plano-Irving | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"A beautiful lawn in DFW doesn't just happen. We offer tips on lawn mowing and maintenance in Dallas-Plano and Irving to help you keep your lawn thrivinging."}}},{"node":{"id":"c36b05a7-74f1-5c15-b3a6-19dac76c309b","slug":"everything-to-know-about-kentucky-bluegrass","path":"/blog/landscaping/everything-to-know-about-kentucky-bluegrass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 27th, 2019","excerpt":"For many lawn owners in the Northern half of the United States, Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) is synonymous with the ideal lawn, and for good reason. When given its preferred growing conditions and proper care, this grass produces a lush, dense, and durable lawn that lives up to its historic reputation. Part of the charm […]
\n","content":"\nFor many lawn owners in the Northern half of the United States, Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) is synonymous with the ideal lawn, and for good reason. When given its preferred growing conditions and proper care, this grass produces a lush, dense, and durable lawn that lives up to its historic reputation. Part of the charm of a healthy Kentucky bluegrass lawn is its rich emerald to blue-green color. Add to that its medium to fine texture and a Kentucky bluegrass lawn is both beautiful to look at and comfortable for bare feet and outdoor activities.
\n\n\n\nOften referred to in the grass industry by its initials KBG, Kentucky bluegrass quickly rose to become a premier lawn grass throughout much of the country. While the state of Kentucky may be known as the “Bluegrass State,” Kentucky bluegrass did not actually originate there. Like many common turf grasses in the United States, this widely used grass is native to Europe and northern Asia (1). Its first use in the U.S. was as a pasture grass in locations such as Kentucky, where it still covers the state’s well known gently rolling hills. KBG is what is known as a perennial, cool-season lawn grass. This means it comes back year after year and grows most vigorously during the cool seasons of fall and spring. KBG has the greatest cold hardiness of all the common cool-season lawn grasses (2). It is used most extensively in northern climates where moderately warm summers and cold winters follow with its natural preferences and growth cycle.
Compared to tall fescue, traditional Kentucky bluegrass varieties have relatively shallow roots, which typically lead to lower tolerances for heat and drought (3). Historically, this has restricted the widespread use of KBG south of the climatically challenging ‘transition zone’, where higher heat and humidity favor warm-season grasses, such as Zoysia and St. Augustine grass.
\n\n\n\nUnlike bunch-forming grasses, such as tall fescue and ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass is a true self-spreading, sod-forming grass. Once established, it spreads readily by using underground stems (known as rhizomes) to form a dense and thick turf. This aggressive growth habit gives KBG the capacity to recuperate quickly from damage. Depending on your grass growing region and your lawn care goals, Kentucky bluegrass may be a perfect choice for you. As with other cool-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass growth slows significantly during hot summer months. During extreme heat or extended drought, the grass will go dormant. However, it recovers quickly with irrigation and a return to normal conditions.
\n\n\n\nKBG establishes easily from seed, but it germinates more slowly than some other cool-season grasses. Fast-growing perennial ryegrass, for example, germinates in one-third the time of Kentucky bluegrass (1). Kentucky bluegrass prefers full sun, but some varieties can do well in lightly shaded areas. Look on the seed tag label of many grass seed mixes, including shade and sun & shade mixes, and you’ll find KBG varieties mixed with other cool-season grasses. Fast-greening perennial ryegrass and shade-tolerant fescues complement Kentucky bluegrass’s strengths to create versatile, lush, cool-season lawns. Durable KBG is also a regular component of seed mixes for athletic fields.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass seed is better adapted to high foot-traffic and compacted soil. This makes the grass ideal for yards with children and dogs, park areas and sports fields. For the most part, Bluegrasses have the ability to recover from injury and disturbance due to their spreading rhizomes. This also gives them excellent winter hardiness. When properly watered during its growing seasons, bluegrass will grow back and fill-in after freezing, drought and periods of high-traffic.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass matures into a beautiful, sod-forming turf with a fine texture and blue-green blades that form dense, spreading mats. Regular mowing will help bluegrass become thick, lush and uniform lawns.
\n\n\n\nWhile Kentucky bluegrass is lovely for many reasons, it can not achieve its full beauty on its own. This grass actually requires a relatively high level of maintenance to look its absolute, but the results of the extra tender loving grass care can be worth it.
\n\n\n\nWith Kentucky bluegrass and other cool-season lawn grasses, the best time to plant seed and do major lawn maintenance is during early fall, as KBG growth progress is at its peak. Because of KBG’s rhizomatous growth, the grass develops thatch easily, which can add to drought stress and potential for disease. Depending on your mowing and care practices, your KBG lawn may need dethatching every year or two.
\n\n\n\nWise water management is essential for Kentucky bluegrass lawns. Deep, thorough irrigation helps encourage deep root growth, while shallow, frequent watering discourages proper growth. During normal weather, a typical KBG lawn needs at least 1 inch of water weekly from irrigation or rainfall. During warmer weather and in the transition zone, 2 inches or more per week may be needed (1). While the relatively shallow roots of traditional KBG varieties historically required more water than tall fescue or most warm-season counterparts in similar situations, modern developments have greatly improved water efficiency.
\n\n\n\nLike other cool-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass should be mowed higher than warm-season grasses. Warm-season Bermudagrass, for example, is routinely kept near 1 inch tall, but KBG should be mowed to 2 to 2 1/2 inches high. During periods of high heat and lower rainfall, recommended KBG mowing heights increase to 3 to 4 inches (1).
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass lawns typically require more fertilizer than tall fescue and other grasses. In alkaline soils, blades can lose their rich green color due to pH-induced iron deficiency. The optimal soil pH for KBG lawns is near 5.8 to 7.0. (2) Regular soil testing every three to four years can help you maintain a healthy pH balance and rich KBG color with the help of quality lawn fertilizers, soil amendments and mineral supplements (3).
\n\n\n\nWhile this might seem like a lot of maintenance items to keep up on, as we’ve shown the benefits of KBG can definitely outweigh the time and energy required to keep the grass at its peak.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass seeds will tolerate limited shade but grow best in full sun. Some varieties of bluegrass have been bred to be more tolerant of shading, but dense shade is a limiting factor to the vigor of a bluegrass lawn. KBG requires well-drained soil and consistent moisture for optimal health and beauty (3). Due to shallow roots, bluegrasses will quickly go dormant if subjected to extended drought or under-watering.
\n\n\n\nStill unsure of how to best care for your Kentucky Bluegrass lawn? Check out your state’s agricultural extension office for helpful tips and soil testing kits that will help you determine your best lawn care plan.
\n\n\n\nIf you live in the northern or central United States and your lawn needs call for a durable and wear-resistant cool-season lawn that can grow thick and lush, Kentucky Bluegrass may be the perfect solution providing you seasons of turfgrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\nSources:
\n\n\n\n1. Duble, R.L., “Kentucky Bluegrass,” Texas A&M Agrilife Extension.
\n\n\n\n2. Patton, A. and Boyd J., “Choosing a Grass for Arkansas Lawns,” University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension.
\n\n\n\n3. Cook, T., “Kentucky Bluegrass, Poa Pratensis L.,” Oregon State University Department of Horticulture.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Source
\n","title":"Everything to Know About Kentucky Bluegrass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.4987951807228916,"src":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/9461e/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/107df/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 320w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/293e9/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 500w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/9461e/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.jpg 622w","srcWebp":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/fb518/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/67b76/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 320w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/8df11/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 500w,\n/static/7279b0894b04d112c26a7194a6a759bd/fb518/kentucky-bluegrass-lawn.webp 622w","sizes":"(max-width: 622px) 100vw, 622px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Everything to Know About Kentucky Bluegrass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"This is the comprehensive Kentucky Bluegrass guide. Read more to find out characteristics, maintenance do's and don'ts, and more!"}}},{"node":{"id":"dc9d69b9-4c83-5b51-a60d-e92c73f52fc7","slug":"when-to-overseed-a-lawn","path":"/blog/when-to-overseed-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Overseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type. Experts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to […]
\n","content":"\nOverseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to overseed a lawn in southern areas where grass grows more actively in the spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPopular in the northern states, cool-season grasses grow most actively in spring and fall. These grasses should be overseeded in late summer or early fall. This way the seeds will have time to germinate before your lawn comes out of dormancy in the spring. Most weeds have stopped growing by fall, so your new grass seed will have less competition.
\n\n\n\nIdeal conditions for growing cool-season grasses are when the soil is between 50 and 65 degrees. You can use a soil thermometer to check this out.
\n\n\n\nThere are many varieties of cool-season grasses, but the most common ones include:
\n\n\n\nAnother thing to consider when overseeding is when you expect the first frost. It’s important to overseed at least 45 days before the ground freezes so the new seeds have time to take root. Any closer to the first frost than that, and the grass seeds may die.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are most active in late spring and early summer and best for lawns in the southern United States. It’s best to overseed with warm-season grass seeds in the late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees. These types of grasses prefer prolonged temperatures around 75 degrees and lie dormant during winter.
\n\n\n\nThe most popular kinds of warm-season grasses are drought-tolerant. They include:
\n\n\n\nYou may want to overseed your warm-season grass with a cool-season variety such as ryegrass. This will help your lawn stay green longer into the winter season. If this is your goal, you need to overseed in the fall, ideally when the soil temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees.
\n\n\n\nAnnual ryegrass will provide winter color in the far South, while perennial ryegrass is better suited to lawns in the middle of the country. Perennial varieties will lie dormant through the summer and return next fall. The extreme temperatures in the South are not hospitable to perennial ryegrass, so you’ll want to overseed with annual ryegrass each autumn.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll want to consider blending grass types in states near the Mason-Dixon line. Summers tend to be too warm for cool-season grasses, but winters are too cold for warm ones.
\n\n\n\nHome supply stores typically sell grass seed mixes, especially for the transition zone. You’ll find overseeding with this mixture is a great way to keep your lawn green and healthy year-round.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses should be overseeded in the first few weeks of spring when the existing lawn first turns green.You want to overseed when your lawn is at its most active, but you also want to be sure you have enough time to complete the process.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns will require overseeding every couple of years, but you may want to make it an annual chore if your lawn suffers from:
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find valuable information on the seed packaging specific to each type of grass. The labels will indicate how much seed to apply per square foot, as well as other tips for attaining a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\n1. How much grass seed should I use when overseeding?
\n\n\n\nApply 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet on bare soil. Using too little will leave bare spots and patches. Too much seed will force the grass to compete for water, light, and other nutrients. Read the directions on the seed package.
\n\n\n\n2. Should I mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nYes. Before overseeding, cut your grass shorter than usual and bag the clippings. It’s important to loosen the top layer of solid and remove any dead grass or thatch so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n3. Should I use a weed treatment while overseeding?
\n\n\n\nThis is a big no-no. Pre-emergents herbicides work by preventing germinating seeds from establishing roots. These products don’t know the difference between weed seeds and grass seeds. You also want to hold off on post-emergent weed treatments since they can kill young grass seed.
\n\n\n\n4. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should see the grass sprout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n5. How soon and how often should I water the lawn after overseeding?
\n\n\n\nWater the overseeded area lightly right away, for about half an hour, to force the seed into the soil. A light spray is best so as not to wash away the grass seed. You’ll want to water two or three times a day for the first week, and then once a day for the next three weeks.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project. But you might not want to spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating. We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who will overseed your lawn and help it grow.
Main Photo Credit: Pxhere
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\n","content":"\nIs your lawn suffering from dollar spot, snow mold, or brown patch? This guide will help you identify 10 common types of grass fungus quickly, so you can treat and prevent them.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nA grass fungus is a microorganism that grows and thrives in the soil. It manifests itself as a fruiting body such as mushrooms or in the form of a disease such as summer patch.
Sometimes the fungus can lie dormant in cooler seasons and start to show itself in hot months, or vice versa. Grass fungus can attack the roots or leaves of your lawn, zapping it of nutrients and often changing its appearance.
\n\n\n\nSeveral of these fungi can result in a number of lawn diseases. Here are the ten most common types of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nThis fungus spreads throughout the yard through infected tools or grass clippings. It may even spread by shoes tracking through the grass. Dollar spot starts in early summer and reaches its peak in late summer. It thrives in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Bentgrass and Zoysia are grasses that are susceptible to this type of fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gray](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2screen_shot_2022-07-29_at_113159_am-1024x504.jpg\")
Gray leaf spot creates an enormous amount of spores that invade grass through cut leaf tips. This fungus targets St. Augustinegrass but can also affect Bermudagrass, ryegrass, centipedegrass, and tall fescue.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms
\n\n\n\nTreatment
\n\n\n\nGray snow mold is a fungus that grows in winter under snow in temperatures between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, spreading its threads into plant tissues. This disease tends to attack bluegrasses, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescues.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nSimilar to gray snow mold, this fungus attacks the grass leaves, forming a disease that looks like red or coral webs. Unlike gray snow mold, pink snow mold doesn’t require snow to thrive. Annual bluegrasses and bentgrasses are most susceptible to this type of grass fungus.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Leaf](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_manchas_foliares_-_hongos_sobre_hoja_de_rumex_sp-_leaf_spot_7494223286.jpg\")
Leaf spot develops in early spring and spreads in spring or late fall, attacking the grass crown and roots. This fungus attacks Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_img_2816-1024x768.jpg\")
Necrotic ring spot attacks the roots of grass, creating donut-shaped dead spots. It attacks fine fescue, annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and rough bluegrass.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nThis fungus forms in moist, cool climates when the ground has poor air circulation. It forms on the grass blades, particularly Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Red](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_31616759565_dc7c3259f9_c.jpg\")
You can identify red thread by the clusters of red or pink threads throughout your fine fescue, perennial ryegrass, bentgrasses, or bluegrasses. The fungus enters the grass through its blades, spreading to other areas, and is common in rainy seasons of spring and early summer.
Symptoms:
Treatment:
\n\n\n\nBrown patch attacks the roots and spreads to the leaves and stems of grass. This fungus attacks fescues, bentgrass, ryegrass, and bluegrasses.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\n![\"Summer](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_14747617254_dd85aea258_c.jpg\")
Summer patch is a fungus that usually attacks Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, and annual bluegrasses. The fungus attacks the roots of the grass.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms:
\n\n\n\nTreatment:
\n\n\n\nYou can prevent a grass fungus from invading your lawn with a few lawn maintenance tips.
\n\n\n\n1. Will a lawn fungus go away on its own?
\n\n\n\nNo. The fungus will spread and get worse over time.
\n\n\n\n2. Are certain grass types more susceptible to lawn fungus than others?
\n\n\n\nYes. For example, Bermudagrass, bluegrasses, and Zoysiagrasses are vulnerable to various types of fungus. Planting a much more resistant species like creeping red fescue will help keep fungus at bay.
\n\n\n\n3. Will mowing the infected lawn spread the disease?
\n\n\n\nYes. The blades of your mower could spread the fungus throughout your yard. To minimize the spread of the pathogens to other parts of your yard via your lawn mower, clean and disinfect the mower blades before each mow.
\n\n\n\nNot sure how to treat the grass fungus invading your lawn? We’ll help you find a lawn care professional in your area.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Flickr/ Kris Lourd/CC BY 2.0
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\n","content":"\nSummer patch resembles drought-stressed grass, but this lawn disease needs more than water to cure it. In this article, we’ll cover what summer patch is and how you can stop this disease from destroying your lawn.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\nSummer patch is a root-destroying lawn disease that causes round patches of discolored grass. Summer patch can occur through the summer when soil temperatures rise above 65 degrees.
\n\n\n\nSymptoms of summer patch:
\n\n\n\nSummer patch thrives in warm, humid conditions, but these four factors make your lawn vulnerable to this fungus:
\n\n\n\nLow-cut grass makes your lawn susceptible to summer patch and other diseases. If you cut your grass blades more than one-third of their length when mowing, you risk “scalping” your lawn.
\n\n\n\nThatch is a tangled mass at the grass roots that makes it hard for the soil to get fresh air or sunlight. Thatch’s dark, moist conditions start to breed various types of fungi, one of which is Magnaporthe poae, which forms the disease summer patch.
\n\n\n\nToo much nitrogen fertilizer in your soil during the summer contributes to summer patch. Nitrogen fertilizer can burn and kill the grass. This partially dead grass makes the soil ripe for developing a pathogen like summer patch.
\n\n\n\nToo much water stresses your lawn, and the excess moisture can encourage the growth of summer patch.
\n\n\n\nWhile numerous stress factors lead to summer patch, sometimes the grass itself can be the problem. Summer patch is most common in Kentucky bluegrass, annual bluegrass, and fine fescues.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass and annual bluegrass are cool-season grasses. Planting them in warm regions makes them vulnerable to summer patch.
\n\n\n\nFine fescues are adaptable to many climates. These soft grasses are drought-resistant. Despite their versatility, they are susceptible to summer patch.
\n\n\n\nBrown patch is very similar to summer patch and sometimes mistaken for it. Summer patch attacks the roots of the grass, while brown patch attacks the leaf blades. Treatments for each are very different.
\n\n\n\nYou need to determine if your yard is suffering from summer patch, brown patch or some other lawn disease before beginning a treatment plan. Below is a chart of some of the most common lawn diseases and the patterns they create on your grass.
\n\n\n\n| Summer Patch | Brown Patch | Dollar Spot | Necrotic Ring Spot |
| Develops a circular formation on your lawn that’s yellow or orange. | Similar to summer patch but forms brown circular patches. | Develops circles that look like drops of bleach on your lawn. | Forms full ovals. |
If you can’t determine which pathogen is infecting your lawn, don’t resort to a spray and pray method. The wrong treatment won’t fix the disease and could make it worse.
\n\n\n\nInstead, send a sample of your grass to your county extension office to have them determine what disease is present, so you’ll know how to treat it.
\n\n\n\nLeft untreated, summer patch disease can destroy the root system of your entire lawn. Here are a few ways to eliminate this lawn fungus.
\n\n\n\nHere are some ways to prevent summer patch from infecting your lawn:
\n\n\n\nYes. Summer patch is much more common in regions with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees.
\n\n\n\nYes. Spraying a proper fungicide two to three times over the course of 28 days should eliminate the summer patch. Then you can refill the missing or dead areas of grass with fungus-resistant grass seed.
\n\n\n\nNo. In fact, adding a nitrogen-based fertilizer in the heat of summer will only encourage the summer patch to spread.
When you fertilize in September or October, use a phosphorus- and potassium-based fertilizer that will lower the pH level of your soil.
Not sure if your lawn is suffering from summer patch or another lawn disease? We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who can bring your grass back to life.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Scot Nelson | Flickr | Public Domain
\n","title":"What is Summer Patch?","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1789c/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/107df/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 320w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/293e9/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 500w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/f2cbb/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 800w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1789c/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 960w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/c26c2/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1dd6e/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/67b76/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 320w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/8df11/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 500w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/98a65/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 800w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/1dd6e/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 960w,\n/static/ad8bee816be4bd070f47833aca71b0d9/3cc96/rsz_14747617254_5bd18e730f_k.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What is Summer Patch? | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is summer patch? Those circular brown patches on your lawn could be summer patch. We’ll identify and get rid of this lawn disease."}}},{"node":{"id":"2aabb5c7-2f2c-5f83-b362-bdc7bbaf0dd5","slug":"the-25-top-pet-peeves-of-your-neighbors","path":"/blog/the-25-top-pet-peeves-of-your-neighbors/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Jackie Greene is a blogger, gardener, and nutrition enthusiast. She enjoys creating organic meals for family and friends using the fresh ingredients she produces from her backyard homestead.","name":"Jackie Greene","id":"fb5923e1-833b-5d9b-808e-ded0e62c0bc4","path":"/author/jackiegreene/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2c1121209a3ebfbe0a7e941d102b2971?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"April 22nd, 2019","excerpt":"All of us have or have had that annoying neighbor who drives them mad. From rowdy fraternities to the daybreak lawn mowers, some neighbors aren’t very neighborly. And while many of these offenses don’t warrant a call to the police, they may have us considering building higher fences or even putting our house on the […]
\n","content":"\nAll of us have or have had that annoying neighbor who drives them mad. From rowdy fraternities to the daybreak lawn mowers, some neighbors aren’t very neighborly. And while many of these offenses don’t warrant a call to the police, they may have us considering building higher fences or even putting our house on the market.
And while we know that we aren’t perfect when it comes to being the best neighbor ever, there are times when a neighbor just goes too far in annoying us. Some of these may not be high on your own list of pet peeves but these are the pet peeves that we have found are most common when it comes to less than neighborly neighbors. Let’s take a look at the worst offenders.
It’s tough not to notice a neighbor who doesn’t keep their lawn mowed on a regular basis. Without proper lawn maintenance, their overgrown lawn starts to look like a jungle and the weeds overtake the area and threaten your own sculpted yard. Those lawns are also a breeding ground for snakes. Cora bought her house next to a golf course thinking she’d always have a great view. But the golf course wasn’t controlled by the homeowners association and the outlying grass was more than a foot tall. She’s had to call a critter control expert several times to get rid of the rattlesnakes that creep into her backyard.
Who cares if their bark is worse than their bite if it’s the noise that’s keeping you up at night! It’s enough to encourage you to put up the “for sale” sign. Consider asking neighbors to bring their dog inside during certain hours of the day. Other options include asking them to use a bark collar in order to help curb the incessant barking.
Outdoor cats don’t know boundaries, so they invariably become neighborhood cats. They aren’t too bad until you notice that your yard or kid’s sandbox has become their litter box. Wildlife control officers suggest spraying a cat repellent around your property. You can also do things to deter cats from your yard like not petting them or having anything outdoors that they could eat or drink.
Having a friend or two over is fine….but a few hundred? Not so great, especially when parties become loud and obnoxious. Any outdoor party that goes past midnight can cause issues for the next door neighbors and anyone else in the neighborhood who wasn’t invited. If it’s a one-time party you may have to just grin and bear it. If it’s a constant pattern you may want to alert your homeowner’s association before calling the police.
Neighbors who seem to collect random items in their yard create an eyesore. Usually, those items are in some state of disrepair and end up staying much longer than originally intended. Most cities have ordinances regulating the state of a front yard. A simple call to code enforcement officer might do the trick.
Most of us have had to work on our car in the driveway. But having a broken down car in the driveway can create problems. Cars that are up on blocks and are always being worked on are an eyesore and create a lot of unwanted noise in a neighborhood. Once again, a call to the city’s code enforcement officer may be in order,
Your neighbor may mean well but living next to the Griswolds (from the movie “Christmas Vacation”) can get old really fast. Add to it those neighbors who keep their decorations up well past the holiday and you’ve got a big pet peeve for many homeowners. You may offer to lend your neighbor a helping hand after the holidays to help remove some of the decor.
Nosy neighbors who seem to know all of your business, as well as everyone else’s, can become quite annoying. Your best bet is to avoid gossiping about your neighbors with anyone. Kindly confront neighbors who have spread rumors about you and remember that sometimes the best way to stop nosy neighbors is to not engage them and give them the cold shoulder.
Having a few items around your trash cans can be normal but those neighbors who don’t pay for trash service can create quite a nuisance. Large amounts of trash not only smell bad, but they also attract animals that can easily create a problem. Sounds like another city code enforcement issue.
Everyone enjoys different kinds of music but it can be hard to live next to neighbors who are always blaring their own music for everyone else to hear. This includes neighbors who always have their windows open with the music on which can create a difficult situation for others. Most municipalities have noise ordinances but they don’t usually go into effect until after 10 p.m.
Those neighbors who use their front lawn as more of a used car lot can quickly get on people’s nerves. Cars can be either in working condition or in multiple stages of disarray and become an eyesore. Check the zoning in your neighborhood to see if your neighbor is breaking the law.
Peeling paint and falling gutters can be a time and money issue but those neighbors who have really let their house go can become wearisome for the neighborhood and lower property values. The addition of mold and overgrown vegetation can easily engulf a house as well. Consider checking your neighborhood zoning code to see if a neighbor is in violation.
Neighbors who always seem to be grumpy or just plain mean can be a pet peeve. These neighbors seem to always have something bad to say about your home, family members, or even yourself…and they aren’t shy about sharing their opinions. Consider killing a mean-spirited neighbor with kindness by getting to know them better or bringing them a plate of cookies. You never know what problems a neighbor can be facing until you ask.
We all enjoy talking to our neighbors from time to time, but there are those who always seem to be outside when you are and a cordial conversation turns into an hour-long saga about their best friend’s sisters’ cat recent visit to the vet. Consider coming up with some predetermined excuses on how to get out of a long conversation by saying you need to use the bathroom or even stating that you have something that could burn in the oven.
Even if you don’t have a dog, you may find your front lawn is being used as a dog relief area from neighbors who walk their dogs on a daily basis. Picking up someone else’s dog mess is just not okay. Place funny signs in your yard that are humorous, but also make a point, to remind neighbors about allowing their dog to use your lawn.
Those neighbors who smoke outside have every right to do so but it can become frustrating for those nearby who see the onslaught of cigarette butts on their property. Consider asking neighbors to refrain from leaving their cigarette butts on your lawn. If needed, try picking up the butts when they are outside as well to make a point.
The overtired mom next door may always send her kids outside which can make your own outside time much less enjoyable. Too many kids can mean a lot of noise, crying, and arguing that can get old really fast. Investing in a great pair of noise-canceling headphones can help keep those screams and cries out of earshot.
Nothing is worse than wanting to sleep in on a Saturday morning only to be woken up by the neighbor who is mowing his lawn or blowing a leaf blower at 6 am. Kindly ask a neighbor to wait to mow the lawn until an appropriate hour. Consider sharing certain aspects of your life, like a late night work shift or a newborn baby, in order to help neighbors understand your issue.
Those neighbors who always seem to be in some sort of marital spat can create an uncomfortable situation for neighbors who are slyly trying to make it from their car to the front door without being seen. Try to talk to neighbors who are having issues and remember that everyone can have a bad day sometimes.
Neighbors who are loud in the bedroom, even without their windows open, can create some uncomfortable situations for others, especially during the daytime. Use subtle hints with your overly vocal neighbors who may not realize that they can be heard from the street.
Flooding your property with safety lights may seem like a bright idea, but many homeowners enjoy the beauty of the night sky without the need for police-style floodlights on all of the time. Suggest motion detector light options that will help conserve energy as well as your sanity.
An occasional cup of sugar is one thing. When you find yourself lending out your lawnmower, chainsaw, hairdryer, vacuum cleaner, and kitchen chairs it starts to get old…especially when you have to repeatedly ask for the items to be returned. Make a habit to stop allowing neighbors to borrow items when they aren’t returned in a timely manner.
While many residents enjoy checking the mail there is always that one neighbor who seems to let the mail pile up and spill out of their mailbox or crowd their front door. Consider taking the neighbors mail to their door with a small note about how crowded their mailbox was to drop a hint.
Living next to a home with boarded-up windows or doors creates an eyesore and invites a level of danger to a neighborhood. Ask neighbors if you can help them with their property or possibly bring up the situation to the local zoning board as well.
Those neighbors who need their lawns in mint condition can easily become a pet peeve. Those who are always mentioning that one bush branch that keeps on creeping over the fence line or the leaves from your tree landing in their yard are the worst. Do your best to comply with your neighbor’s concerns but don’t kill yourself over every single leaf.
Keep in mind, there’s no such thing as a perfect neighborhood. So before you consider retaliating, calling the police or complaining to the neighbor in person, ask yourself “would I be happier living anywhere else?” Even a deserted island has loud wildlife that’s sure to keep you awake!
\n\n\n\nHappen to have questions about lawn care? Visit our lawn care page for more information.
\n","title":"The 25 Top Pet Peeves of Your Neighbors","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5005861664712778,"src":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1789c/human-3429797_1280.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/107df/human-3429797_1280.jpg 320w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/293e9/human-3429797_1280.jpg 500w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/f2cbb/human-3429797_1280.jpg 800w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1789c/human-3429797_1280.jpg 960w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/356ef/human-3429797_1280.jpg 1280w","srcWebp":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1dd6e/human-3429797_1280.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/67b76/human-3429797_1280.webp 320w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/8df11/human-3429797_1280.webp 500w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/98a65/human-3429797_1280.webp 800w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/1dd6e/human-3429797_1280.webp 960w,\n/static/d9d0440ef206fa319b563647b6623021/93f70/human-3429797_1280.webp 1280w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"The 25 Top Pet Peeves of Your Neighbors | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"4ffe5de5-d22a-50e4-9c09-43d605c75e25","slug":"6-organizing-tips-to-tidy-up-your-yard","path":"/blog/landscaping/6-organizing-tips-to-tidy-up-your-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"June 5th, 2019","excerpt":"What is a backyard if not an extension of one’s soul? Okay, that may be a bit dramatic, but what’s the point of having that yard if you don’t maintain it well? Your lawn is a part of your property strangers can often look into without having to be welcomed into your home, so keeping […]
\n","content":"\nWhat is a backyard if not an extension of one’s soul? Okay, that may be a bit dramatic, but what’s the point of having that yard if you don’t maintain it well? Your lawn is a part of your property strangers can often look into without having to be welcomed into your home, so keeping it organized is crucial to maintaining the right appearances in your neighborhood. It is one of many ways to improve your all-important curb appeal. Though there is a lot of open space in the typical yard, keeping the rest well organized does take some effort and wise thinking. Try these tips to keep your backyard items well maintained and stored correctly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/lawnmowers-yelloe.jpg\")
It’s possible to store most lawn care products and other backyard items without much maintenance. The main exception would be lawnmowers or other motorized lawn equipment. Drain any fuel or other fluids put inside these tools before they are stored long-term. In the winter, make sure to empty the fuel tank of the mower before putting it away in the garage or shed. If the items are stored outdoors, try to keep them above ground to prevent snow and water from getting to them.
\n\n\n\nRead more: Here Are the Best Push Lawn Mowers of 2019
\n\n\n\nOutdoor grills can get dirty during a busy summer, so cleaning a grill before putting it in storage is always wise. A grill brush can be a big help with the job. Weber Grills has a helpful guide on their site that helps walk through the steps owners of each kind of grill should take before storing their grills. Whatever grill you have, it can be stored indoors or outdoors during the winter, but a propane tank should always be stored outside. If you choose to store your grill outdoors, a grill cover can help protect its exterior from the elements.
\n\n\n\nMost items that kids love to play with at the pool are pretty low maintenance, but it always helps to break down these pool toys and accessories to their smallest components. That means disassembling the pool basketball hoop, deflating the floating pool toys, and folding all the towels.
\n\n\n\nThere’s always an item or two that can be removed to create extra space in any outdoor space. Many people don’t refresh their lawn decorations or leave some out far too long. Others keep broken or worn down lawn equipment, flower pots or watering instruments around as it can be difficult to throw them out.
\n\n\n\nThe shed or garage close to your outdoor space can often become the place where items to be sold, donated, or thrown out are put. It generally feels easier to move these items temporarily than it is actually to get rid of them. Determine a workflow to assess which of these seeming superfluous items are worth keeping, and figure out what to do with the rest (selling, donating, dumping) that makes the most sense.
\n\n\n\nDecluttering your backyard makes the outdoor living space more inviting and more functional for your friends and family… or neighbors. When you have too much stuff just lying around and taking up space in your yard, the point this summer should be to declutter it. The golden rule is the less you have, the less you need to store. Just like when you’re looking at renting a storage space or preparing for a long distance move, throwing away or donating items means fewer things for you to worry about.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/4757379661_316dfa218f_z.jpg\")
Need more space to store things in and around your yard? There are a few convenient yard storage solutions. Add storage racks or buy shelves to go alongside the walls of the garage, and you’ll make more use out of the space right next to your yard. In the yard, a storage shed or deck box can make an unassuming place to put some items that belong in the yard but aren’t always being used. The deck box or shed can blend into a yard much like an ottomans blend into a living room. A wine rack as a holder for clean – rolled-up towels and a water-proof coat rack is a great solution for hanging wet towels to dry.
\n\n\n\nThe elements are always a concern in the yard, so patio and other outdoor furniture should have covers that can be put on them upon notice of inclement weather. Clearing debris from the lawn can help prevent damage in cases of inclement weather too; don’t let a strong breeze cause one of your items to be dented. Cleaning your metal yard equipment like lawnmowers, grills, and gardening tools will help keep them from rusting and help them maintain their top effectiveness. Having a landscape layout that’s fit for your home is often about yard maintenance. But the reward of a photogenic and welcoming exterior on your property is worth it.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Earthworm
\n","title":"Here Are 6 Organizing Tips to Tidy Up Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1789c/backyard-clutter.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/107df/backyard-clutter.jpg 320w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/293e9/backyard-clutter.jpg 500w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/f2cbb/backyard-clutter.jpg 800w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1789c/backyard-clutter.jpg 960w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/a2a79/backyard-clutter.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1dd6e/backyard-clutter.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/67b76/backyard-clutter.webp 320w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/8df11/backyard-clutter.webp 500w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/98a65/backyard-clutter.webp 800w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1dd6e/backyard-clutter.webp 960w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/7aa54/backyard-clutter.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Here Are 6 Organizing Tips to Tidy Up Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"c27b03e6-fdd2-5ff3-abe2-fe3d9cdf3f61","slug":"how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass","path":"/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"LaShonda Tucker is a freelance writer, poet, and spoken word artist in Atlanta. She earned her masters from the University of Georgia and enjoys playing her violin.","name":"LaShonda Tucker","id":"f7fdb6d3-a89a-5295-963a-aac47afa7cee","path":"/author/lashonda-tucker/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ce61747b62dbfb82f56a8611f2835988?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Different people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of […]
\n","content":"\nDifferent people have different expectations and goals when it comes to lawn care products to get rid of weeds. Some prioritize getting the task done over any risks chemicals in products may cause. Others place safety over the convenience conventional lawn care products may provide. That is why we present how to get rid of weeds in grass using traditional, synthetic herbicides and safer methods like homemade recipes and manual tips.
\n\n\n\nWith so many ways to get rid of weeds, you do not have to let them confiscate your property.
\n\n\n\nThis article will also cover weed prevention. Keep reading to discover all the options you have for weed control on your lawn.
\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/5e95d48d-7801-4974-9206-35bbdb36b571.jpg\")
Photo Credit: PxFuel
\n\n\n\nWeeds are unwanted plants growing in lawns, gardens, and fields. They compete with wanted vegetation for nutrients. Like any other plant, they can be categorized by their life cycles and type. Weeds can be annuals, biennials, or perennials. These unwanted plants fall into three types: broadleaf, grassy, and grass-like.
\n\n\n\nBefore you can get rid of weeds, you have to identify what type they are so you can choose an effective control method. Not all herbicides or manual removal methods work for all weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLearn a weed’s life cycle to figure out the best time to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides to control that weed.
\n\n\n\nAnnual weeds live for less than a year and spread by seed. Summer annuals sprout in the spring. They grow in the summer and fall and die in the winter. Crabgrass and goosegrass are some examples. Winter annuals sprout in late summer and early fall. They die when it gets hotter out, in late spring or early summer. Some examples of winter annual weeds are chickweed and henbit.
\n\n\n\nBiennial weeds have a two-year life cycle and germinate by seed. They are not as common in lawns as annual and perennial weeds. Common burdock and wild carrot are two examples.
\n\n\n\nPerennial weeds are also spread by seed and by stolons, bulbs, and rhizomes. These weeds are harder to control than annual weeds because they keep coming back, year after year, unless you remove their entire system of growth, including roots, stolons, and rhizomes. Plantain, thistle, and dandelions are some examples.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSome chemical treatments are only effective for certain types of weeds or specific weeds within a category. So, you must be able to identify the weeds growing in your grass before you can choose a suitable herbicide.
\n\n\n\nBroadleaf weeds have broad and flat leaves that are not grass-like. Examples are perennials like thistle, plantain, chickweed, dandelions, and henbit.
\n\n\n\nGrassy weeds have blades that look like grass. Crabgrass, quackgrass, annual bluegrass, and foxtail are some common grassy weeds.
\n\n\n\nGrass-like weeds resemble grass but do not look as much like it as grassy weeds. The blades are triangular or tubular and shiny. Some examples are nutsedge, wild garlic, and wild onion.
\n\n\n\nOnce you have identified the type of weed in your yard, you can select the best organic herbicide, homemade weed killer recipe, synthetic herbicide, or manual removal method to control that specific weed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOrganic herbicides have ingredients that are safer than the toxic chemicals found in traditional synthetic herbicides. However, you typically will not find these organic herbicides in most kitchens, like you would the options listed in the homemade weed killer section.
\n\n\n\nOrganic weed control products with the following active ingredients can be purchased from stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, and other home and garden suppliers.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/4a16ada4-5ea8-4f9b-8641-f6c78f02e677.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Olga Kriger / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nCorn gluten meal acts as a weed and feed product. It kills weed seeds like a pre-emergent herbicide and contains nitrogen to feed the grass.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Corn gluten meal is only effective at preventing weeds and fertilizing grass when the soil is wet, so give the lawn a light spray of water after using this product unless rain is forecasted later in the day to do it for you.
\n\n\n\nApply it before weed seeds germinate – in early spring for summer annuals and early fall for winter annuals – because corn gluten meal does nothing to kill weeds that have already sprouted. The nitrogen it contains can actually promote the growth of existing weeds.
\n\n\n\nMonthly reapplication may be required for lasting control. Corn gluten meal can kill the seeds of weeds like dandelions, crabgrass, henbit, and more.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nVinegar is most effective at killing weeds when the vinegar is 20% acetic acid. The vinegar in your kitchen is only around 5% acetic acid, so you will need a special product called herbicidal vinegar to kill weeds. Herbicidal vinegar is a popular active ingredient in organic post-emergent herbicides. It can kill larger weeds and perennials, but multiple treatments are required.
\n\n\n\nThe acetic acid removes moisture from the plant’s foliage, breaking it down and killing the leaves. A natural surfactant, like yucca extract, is usually included in herbicides to help the vinegar solution stick to the weeds’ leaves.
\n\n\n\nHow to Use It: Herbicidal vinegar is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills all plants it comes into contact with, including grass. Never apply vinegar all over your lawn unless you’re trying to kill the existing grass so you can start a new lawn from scratch. Instead, spot-treat unwanted plants by placing the solution in a spray bottle and spraying weeds directly. Many commercial herbicides with vinegar come in a ready-to-spray bottle.
\n\n\n\nWarning: Herbicidal vinegar can burn the skin and cause severe eye injuries, such as blindness. Wear protective glasses and long sleeves when applying this product.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can also use ingredients already in your kitchen to make a homemade weed killer for your lawn. These DIY concoctions are safer for pets and humans than the chemicals in synthetic herbicides and much more affordable than organic herbicides you can buy at the store, but they may be less effective than either and may take multiple applications to produce results.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"apple](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/apple-cider-vinegar-next-to-apples-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: tylim / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nVinegar solutions are a commonly used DIY weed control method. The following are mixtures you can make using regular kitchen vinegar.
\n\n\n\nWhite Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 gallon of white vinegar
— 1 tablespoon of dish soap
— 1 cup of salt
Apple Cider Vinegar Solution:
\n\n\n\n— ½ gallon of apple cider vinegar
— ¼ cup of salt
— 1 teaspoon of dish soap
How to Apply: Mix the ingredients thoroughly and place the solution in a handheld spray bottle. Spray directly to weeds on a sunny day. The sun helps the acetic acid in the vinegar work.
\n\n\n\nThis non-selective DIY weed control will kill most broadleaf weeds and other plants, too, so be careful not to spray it directly on your grass. Solutions with 5% acetic acid may not kill dandelions and other plants with taproots. Use herbicidal vinegar for these types of stubborn weeds.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"table](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/table-salt-spilled-out-on-a-table.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sebalos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSalt can change the pH level of the soil, make it sterile, and hurt plants, including weeds. The downside is that salt will also hurt grass and other landscape plants, so apply it only on the soil around weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: You can start with a 3-to-1 water-to-salt ratio and increase the amount of salt daily until it kills the weeds. Learn more in our in-depth article about using salt to kill weeds.
\n\n\n\nIf preserving soil health is not a concern, apply a mixture with a 1:2 or 1:3 water-to-salt ratio. Add a small amount of liquid dish soap or white vinegar to make the weed killer stronger.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"rock](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rock-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BWFolsom / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nIf you live in a location with icy winters, you may have some rock salt on hand. This is the salt that eats away the ice. You can sprinkle some directly on the weeds or make a solution.
\n\n\n\nRock Salt Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 1 cup of rock salt
— 1 gallon of hot water
How to Apply: Mix until the salt is dissolved. Pour into a spray bottle. Spray weeds directly. Respray the weeds after five days. Reapply the spray after waiting another five days. Avoid saturating the roots, as this can damage the soil and nearby plants. To protect your grass and ornamentals, water nearby vegetation after applying the salt solution to dilute it.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBoil some water and pour it onto the weeds. This option, like all DIY weed killers, will damage your grass and other surrounding plants if it makes contact.
\n\n\n\nHow to Apply: It is best to place the hot water in a vessel with a spout, like a teapot. Allow it to soak into the plant roots. However, it may not kill the roots, which can result in weed regrowth.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRubbing alcohol kills weeds by draining moisture from the leaves. It will also drain moisture from grass blades and the foliage of other plants, so be sure to spray it directly onto the weeds, and do your best to avoid overspray.
\n\n\n\nRubbing Alcohol Solution:
\n\n\n\n— 2 tablespoons of alcohol
— 1 quart of water
How to Apply: Mix the solution in a spray bottle. Spray weeds individually, covering the leaves as much as possible with the solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lawn-Treatment-with-Herbicides.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Bouillante / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSynthetic herbicides come as pre-emergent, post-emergent, or as weed and feed products. These herbicides come with precautions as well as do’s and don’ts to be effective and not cause damage. Here are some examples:
\n\n\n\n— Be sure to use these at the right time of year and in the right temperature range. Pre-emergents and post-emergents work at different times, and if applied at the wrong time, they won’t do much at all.
— Synthetic herbicides can injure grass if applied during the wrong stage of your lawn’s growth. For example, pre-emergent products typically should only be applied to turfgrass that has been established for at least 12 months.
— Certain types of herbicides can only be used on certain grass types. Read product labels to find out which grass types it’s safe to use each product on.
— Not all chemicals kill all weeds. Some chemicals only work on broadleaf weeds, while others only work on grassy weeds. Some are even formulated to kill specific weed types. Read the product label carefully before purchasing a herbicide to make sure what you’re getting will actually work for the weeds on your lawn.
— Applying pre-emergents too soon after overseeding the lawn can prevent the new grass seeds from germinating.
Pre-emergent products must be applied before weed seeds start germinating. These herbicides kill weed seeds, but they do not kill grown weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are for preventing future weeds, not getting rid of existing ones.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: Administer in the spring for summer annual weeds, like crabgrass and goosegrass. Apply when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees Fahrenheit or above for about 2 days or more.
\n\n\n\nFor winter annual weeds, like annual bluegrass and chickweed, apply in the early fall. The best time is when the soil temperature is approximately 70 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 3 days.
\n\n\n\nA note on soil temperature: Applying pre-emergents at the right soil temperature is imperative to their success, so use a soil thermometer to get an accurate reading. A soil thermometer costs about $10 or less at a local gardening store or online.
\n\n\n\nSelective vs Non-selective: Most pre-emergent herbicides used for lawn weeds are selective herbicides, meaning they kill specific weed seeds without damaging other plants.
\n\n\n\nNon-selective herbicides, on the other hand, target all plants. To avoid eliminating wanted plants and grass, spot-treat unwanted vegetation by applying non-selective herbicides with a handheld sprayer. These herbicides will also prevent grass from growing, so do not use them when you have recently seeded the lawn or plan to seed the lawn in the near future.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides kill weeds that are sprouting. Weeds that are young and actively growing are the most susceptible to these types of herbicides.
\n\n\n\nWhen to Apply: For perennial weeds and many types of annual weeds, the best time to apply post-emergent products is in the fall or late spring. Treat stubborn perennial weeds with deep root systems in the early spring. Apply when the soil temperature is greater than 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the air temperature is less than 85 degrees.
\n\n\n\nContact vs Systemic: Like pre-emergent chemicals, post-emergents come as selective and non-selective. However, unlike pre-emergents, post-emergents destroy plant parts, such as stems and roots. They do this in different ways.
\n\n\n\nContact-based post-emergent herbicides kill only the plant parts they come into contact with. They destroy parts above the ground, like the leaves. Completely killing weeds with contact herbicides may take many treatments, and you’ll have to manually remove the roots to prevent the weeds from coming back.
\n\n\n\nSystemic post-emergents kill the entire plant regardless of contact with specific parts. The weed absorbs the chemicals, which travel through the vegetation and attack its vascular system. The leaves, stems, and root systems are destroyed.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Seed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/seed-spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed products are pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides that also include lawn fertilizer. If applied at the right time, weed and feed can improve your grass and promote a thriving, green lawn at the same time as removing weeds. A healthy lawn decreases the risk of weed growth in the future.
\n\n\n\nWeed and feed is somewhat controversial because it combines herbicides and fertilizer, two types of chemicals that have different requirements for application. For example, grass needs to be fertilized at specific times to be healthy. If the timing to apply the weed control portion is not the same as the timing for the fertilizer, you can damage the grass. Do not apply weed and feed more than two times a year. Always read the label to know when to apply.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor pre-emergent, post-emergent, and weed and feed chemicals, read the labels to determine if the herbicide controls the weeds you are looking to manage, can be used on your grass type, and at what stage your grass is safe from being damaged by the chemicals.
\n\n\n\nFor weed and feeds, make sure the time of year the herbicide should be used is the same as the time your grass requires fertilization.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPulling weeds by hand or using a tool may be a little more time-consuming than other DIY methods or using synthetic chemicals. It may take more effort, too. The benefit is that manual methods will not release substances that can harm you, your loved ones, or the environment or change the soil composition.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/weeds.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Artur Henryk Bialosiewicz / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThese methods are best when you have a few weeds, and they are young. Wear gloves when removing weeds manually.
\n\n\n\nHow to Pull Weeds By Hand or With a Tool: Water the area or wait until after it rains. The wet ground makes it easier to pull up roots. Dig around the weed with a pointed garden trowel or weeding tool to loosen the soil. Use your hand or tool to pull up as much of the root system as possible so the weed will not grow back.
\n\n\n\nFor some weeds, like crabgrass, only pull by hand or tool when the seed head is closed. If you pull when the head is open, the seeds will spread and replant.
\n\n\n\nFor nutsedge, pull it by hand if the plant has fewer than five leaves. If there are many of these weeds, use a dethatcher or hoe.
\n\n\n\nAs you can see, whether you are applying DIY mixtures, synthetic chemicals, or manual methods, it is important to be able to identify the types of weeds you have so that you use the best weed control solution.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis device is also called a flame weeder. It is a propane tank with a wand attached that allows you to burn weeds. The flame weeder kills leaves and stem cells but does not kill the roots. It may take multiple treatments to eliminate weeds.
\n\n\n\nObviously, since weed torches use an open flame to kill weeds, they can also harm your grass, or worse, you. Always wear protective clothing and a face covering when using a weed torch, and be very careful to keep the flame away from your grass and other plants you want to keep.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close-up](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Wallpaper Flare / License
\n\n\n\nThe best way to manage weeds is through prevention by practicing appropriate seasonal lawn care and maintenance. A dense and healthy lawn with grass at an adequate height can crowd out and prevent weed seeds from getting sufficient sun. Weeds will be less likely to sprout because they cannot get the water, nutrients, and space they need to grow.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of grass types: warm-season and cool-season grasses. Each type and the individual grasses within each type determine maintenance requirements, like mowing heights and the amount of fertilizer required. But here are some lawn maintenance practices that can be applied to grass in general for a weed-free lawn:
\n\n\n\nHow long does it take for a salt solution to kill weeds?
\n\n\n\nSalt usually kills weeds in about 10 days.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs herbicidal vinegar dangerous?
\n\n\n\nVinegar containing more than 11% acetic acid can burn your skin and cause eye injuries, including blindness. Wear gloves, goggles, and protective clothing when using herbicidal vinegar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAre there any chemicals that can be used on both cool and warm-season grass?
\n\n\n\nProdiamine is a pre-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on most warm and cool-season grass types. The post-emergent chemicals sulfentrazone and halosulfuron are safe for most types of grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFortunately, you have options to get rid of weeds in grass. The goal is not only to stop weeds before they sprout or kill them after sprouting but to have a healthy lawn that outcompetes weeds. For help keeping your lawn as thick and thriving as it can be, reach out to a local lawn care pro on WikiLawn and find out how much a regular lawn maintenance plan would cost for you.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: SchulteProductions / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"How to Get Rid of Weeds in Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1789c/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/107df/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 320w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/293e9/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 500w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/f2cbb/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 800w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1789c/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 960w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/c26c2/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1dd6e/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/67b76/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 320w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/8df11/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 500w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/98a65/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 800w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/1dd6e/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 960w,\n/static/2895b693b49a37546c989cf055d0de7a/3cc96/418f669d-6383-4ae4-8b73-754a6753b621.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Get Rid of Weeds in Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn how to use organic methods, homemade recipes, manual solutions, and commercial herbicides to get rid of weeds in grass."}}},{"node":{"id":"c8821141-6409-59b1-9d5a-5a8360c22227","slug":"how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil","path":"/blog/how-to-test-and-improve-your-soil/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"March 11th, 2023","excerpt":"A great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider. In this article, we’ll cover: Why You Need to Test and Improve Your Soil […]
\n","content":"\nA great-looking lawn begins with great soil. Testing the acidity and composition of your soil is an easy process. Let’s break down why and how to test and improve your soil, as well as the soil amendments you’ll want to consider.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPlant growth is impacted by the pH balance of the soil. Grass and plants can’t survive in soil that’s too acidic or has too much alkaline. The pH number ranges from 1 to 14. A level below 7 is considered acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. A measurement of 7 is neutral.
\n\n\n\nKnowing the pH of soil lets you decide what to plant and where. The results of a soil test will also indicate how you can improve plant quality. This includes adding fertilizers and other amendments.
\n\n\n\nYou can buy a soil test kit at any home improvement or lawn and garden store. Choose a kit based on what you want to learn about your soil. These kits will come with detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
\n\n\n\nAt-home testing kits are accurate enough for the casual gardener and lawn enthusiast. If you’re looking for something more specific, you should consider a full nutrient analysis. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with the soil testing kit and perform the analysis.
\n\n\n\nThe testing process will vary slightly depending on the kit you purchase, but the general process will be the same.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your sample has lots of earthworms wiggling about, this means your soil already has a strong composition of organic matter.
\n\n\n\nA soil amendment is anything added to the soil to improve nutrients, water retention, pH levels, air intake, and absorption. The goal of mixing amendments into your soil is to improve the environment for healthy root growth.
\n\n\n\nThere are two categories of soil amendments:
\n\n\n\nWhile mulch can be used to improve soil properties, it is not considered an amendment since it sits atop the soil.
\n\n\n\nThere are many options for amendments depending on what your soil test indicates. Cover crops and composted manure are great options, but not always necessary for home gardeners.
\n\n\n\nMost residential soils will benefit from one of the following common amendments:
\n\n\n\nSome gardens will require very specific adjustments and might require one of the following:
\n\n\n\nThere are three broad classifications of soil based on the rock particles it contains. Texture can be amended by adding organic matter such as compost or plant material.
\n\n\n\nGarden soil should be about 5% organic matter. Organic matter ensures the release of nitrogen is adequate to support your lawn and plants without additional fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nWhen should you add soil amendments?
\n\n\n\nAdd organic amendments in the fall, allowing earthworms to work it deeper into the ground by spring.
\n\n\n\nIf you need to amend in the spring, do so as soon as the soil is dry enough to work with.
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is the first step to healthy and lower maintenance gardens.
\n\n\n\nWhat elements should I keep in mind when amending my soil?
\n\n\n\nFrequent testing will help you determine if your amendments are working. Once you get the soil where you want it, you only need to test every couple of years.
\n\n\n\nSamples should come from near the plant roots. This could be a specific garden bed or a tree’s root system. To assess the soil quality in your lawn, take samples from different areas based on conditions.
\n\n\n\nPhosphorus: Promotes root growth, plant maturity, and winter hardiness.
\n\n\n\nPotassium: Disease resistance, drought tolerance, and plant strength.
\n\n\n\nCalcium: Improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
\n\n\n\nMagnesium: Improves plant growth and chlorophyll production.
\n\n\n\n
While testing the soil in your yard might not be an overwhelming task, amending it might. If you find yourself short on time, patience, or ideas, consider calling on a local lawn care professional. The pros know just what to do to keep your soil healthy and when to do it, allowing you to simply enjoy the outcome.
Main photo credit: Rawpixel | CC0 1.0
\n","title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.518987341772152,"src":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/107df/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/293e9/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/f2cbb/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1789c/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/c26c2/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/67b76/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 320w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/8df11/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 500w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/98a65/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 800w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/1dd6e/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 960w,\n/static/6ff1687d7c242a663bf398fbfcca52d9/3cc96/rsz_1screen_shot_2022-08-10_at_14109_pm.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Test and Improve Your Soil | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Healthy soil produces healthy plants and lawns. We’ll show you how to test and improve your soil for a greener lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"3516d946-dc36-5353-80f2-afa1b0cd82b8","slug":"pros-and-cons-of-clover-lawns","path":"/blog/pros-and-cons-of-clover-lawns/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Raven Wisdom is a screenwriter from West Texas and a proud mom of two in an autism family. Self-described as \"half-feral but mostly harmless\", Raven loves houseplants, a good laugh, and furry friends.","name":"Raven Wisdom","id":"4fb83156-96f1-58f1-8074-4a6c5c50eaaa","path":"/author/raven-wisdom/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2813f63a6af9d07a7a5bb212b5645db?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 17th, 2022","excerpt":"Think clover is just another pesky weed? People are rediscovering clover as a low-maintenance, environmentally-friendly addition to their lawns. Check out the pros and cons of a clover lawn to see if it’s a good fit for you. Pros of a Clover Lawn A lawn of only clover, or a grass and clover mix, has […]
\n","content":"\nThink clover is just another pesky weed? People are rediscovering clover as a low-maintenance, environmentally-friendly addition to their lawns. Check out the pros and cons of a clover lawn to see if it’s a good fit for you.
\n\n\n\nA lawn of only clover, or a grass and clover mix, has at least nine advantages over one with only turfgrass:
\n\n\n\nAlthough clover is a fantastic option for many homeowners in the U.S., it might not be the ideal choice for you. There are at least five drawbacks to clover lawns:
\n\n\n\nClover is a legume from the pea family that originated in Europe and arrived in North America in the late 1600s. Early settlers commonly used clover in their lawns until the 1950s, when turfgrass became the popular choice.
\n\n\n\nThe term “clover” refers to a group of around 300 plants in the genus Trifolium. You’ll see three varieties of clover commonly used as lawns in the United States:
\n\n\n\n![\"white](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_trifolium-repens-g5288fbabc_1280.jpg\")
Photo credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"red](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_clover-gd937f9480_1280.jpg\")
Photo credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Strawberry](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_trifoliumfragiferum2-1.jpg\")
Photo credit: Christian Fischer / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSome homeowners consider clover an unsightly weed, but before World War II, clover was a desired component of the seed mixes used on the finest lawns.
\n\n\n\nSo what happened to clover lawns? Chemical corporations promoted broadleaf herbicides as essential in the 1950s. Weed killers like 2,4-D, which also destroys chickweed and dandelions, wiped out the clover.
\n\n\n\nChemical makers identified clover as a weed, and buyers preferred the neat appearance of turfgrass over clover. So seed producers stopped marketing clover in their blends.
\n\n\n\nConsider clover if you’re looking for sustainable, eco-friendly alternatives to a turfgrass lawn. Review the pros and cons of clover above (or summarized below) to decide if it’s right for you.
\n\n\n\nKeep it: Clover helps your lawn grow healthier and more pest-resistant while using less fertilizer. It breaks up compacted soil and requires less frequent mowing. It is durable against pet urine and attracts pollinators like honeybees and other insects. (This last one is a downside if you’re allergic).
\n\n\n\nGet rid of it: Although clover can withstand periods of drought, prolonged dry spells will prevent it from spreading enough to cover a lawn. It is intrusive by nature, and in some shaded areas, it will grow, but the clover flowers will not bloom.
\n\n\n\nYes. Mow the lawn closely and remove any thatch before introducing clover as a grass alternative. This will ensure the seeds fall to the soil’s surface.
\n\n\n\nFour weeks is the average time it takes for clover seeds to mature after pollination. After you’ve seeded the clover in your yard, water it every day until it sprouts, and then every 2-3 weeks.
\n\n\n\nEarly spring or late summer into early fall are the best times to plant clover. It also works well for frost seeding just before the first heavy snow.
\n\n\n\nYes. Mow the clover low to prevent it from flowering. It’s the flowers that attract the bees and other pollinators.
\n\n\n\nWhether you opt for a clover lawn or you want to get rid of the clover in your yard, we can help you find a lawn care professional to reseed and weed your lawn.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Famartin / Wikimedia Commons / CC-BY-SA-4.0
\n","title":"Pros and Cons of Clover Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/1789c/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg","srcSet":"/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/107df/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg 320w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/293e9/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg 500w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/f2cbb/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg 800w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/1789c/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg 960w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/c26c2/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/1dd6e/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/67b76/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp 320w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/8df11/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp 500w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/98a65/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp 800w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/1dd6e/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp 960w,\n/static/f9fada756d3f7f0452c1162ff6d3c587/3cc96/rsz_a_large_patch_of_clover_in_a_lawn_along_virginia.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Pros and Cons of Clover Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"People are rediscovering clover as a beneficial addition to their lawns. Check out the pros and cons of clover lawns to see if it's a good fit for you."}}},{"node":{"id":"e401ec73-35b8-5c01-9cb8-e0f57b2a3fc2","slug":"lawnstarter-review","path":"/blog/lawnstarter-review/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Nick Crawford is a blog writer based in Philadelphia. He enjoys writing just as much as he enjoys reading a good book, cooking, and working out in his spare time.","name":"Nick Crawford","id":"5213edde-9943-5767-a5ae-163493ecfae5","path":"/author/nick-crawford/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7ce3281d49bd9eb99cb1c4f0200247d3?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"January 20th, 2023","excerpt":"LawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors. Interestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles. […]
\n","content":"\nLawnStarter has been called the Uber of lawn care, but is it legit? Short answer? Yes. Longer answer? You’ll find all you need to know in our LawnStarter review of its services, prices, customer reviews, and competitors.
\n\n\n\nInterestingly, LawnStarter’s co-founders don’t want to be likened to Uber, but that moniker has stuck in investment circles.
\n\n\n\n“So many people are trying to make an ‘Uber for X’. There’s only one Uber, and that’s Uber,” LawnStarter co-founder Ryan Farley says. “We’re not an on-demand, real-time company. It makes no sense for lawn care to be that way.”
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/zE1ChS6Og1vxg-VYYe-AZ1xQfxm_SCWMlJridVo3t3SbBRr0-DQ7fGQBOnXXrVIF_-fK13INDU1Eb7DBU4cipmMW9FYqoYrAVjzaIvLsQHn9amuSoHAirxtTuCR9DU0tjJH3713Fmn6txczEN89fuxBUW5_jJeGWs5QC8B8Ie5c362bNQFG9pjBEsnOlVg\")
Whether the company is Uber-like or not, it has become the largest, most popular way for homeowners to care for their lawn, and for good reason.
\n\n\n\nIn this Review:
\n\n\n\nWhy is Wikilawn reviewing LawnStarter? Wikilawn was created to compete with LawnStarter and similar sites, and our aim is to one day be better than all of them.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter connects you with lawn care and other outdoor services pros in your area.
\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2KG41896TuXxdLqF8YIT4jhawWKzzJNYCx2kqiPBDVpFnrTveSXyRTdPPIYcfUQ_ObuqYTDFB9orpDAe9SJQ3qXgvZYBnnnQZHMHPGjSW1-KIaQvbK7o5Isq1D7wSPADQBxddUStmD6kYKW4I0TsJHNU2Ws3QN5HhzXtqPh5nfUsk1a0OmI0yfxDChX8NA\")
How it works: You can get instant quotes for outdoor services by phone, the LawnStarter website, or by the startup’s app, which likely is how that whole “Uber of lawn care” comparison got started.
\n\n\n\nPayment is by credit card or debit card, and if your pro did a great job, you can even tip her or him via the app.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter history: LawnStarter started in Austin, Texas, in 2013, as a lawn care service provider. The company has grown and now operates in nearly every major metro across the U.S. and can connect you with pros for all sorts of outdoor services.
\n\n\n\nThe Uber of lawn care is now the Uber of all outdoor services.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f8VoxgybN4tQceQNQoMpGYckFpKkdxUWLtcfoSiYynu_uDWFceOjRfziA86avkp79KZdJflNCDueAyb2ZGBfbX2CjZ0WHfm2gdro3lL8BGxfgS7z5GRYNKPUkf-OD6sYgTTpuW4J1mwiEecbOyWrPciv1IFbvsEM5rNOnoojSHw5Fm2z_48Shewgf4spRg\")
LawnStarter uses local real estate records to calculate the size of your property and then generates a price quote. It often offers a $19 first-time mowing special for new customers. After that, mowing prices generally start at $29 per week. Price varies by the size of your yard.
\n\n\n\nA good range for an average, quarter-acre yard is $29 to $65. That includes edging and blowing grass clippings off patios and walkways. Generally, LawnStarter’s lawn care pros don’t bag clippings. They may if you request it, but expect to pay slightly more.
\n\n\n\nWorth Noting: If your grass is super long, say between 6 and 12 inches, LawnStarter tacks on an additional charge, which can be quite steep.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers 20-plus outdoor services. It’s nearly impossible here to quote an average price for each service because the cost varies somewhat depending upon the size of your home or property, the type of work you need done, the region in which you live, and other factors.
\n\n\n\nHowever, you can get free quotes for any kind of work within seconds on the LawnStarter website or on the app.
\n\n\n\nJust want your lawn mowed and kept in tip-top shape? Maybe you’ll decide that LawnStarter, with all of its various services, is a non-starter for you. After all, can one site do everything well?
\n\n\n\nTry us at Wikilawn. You simply choose the lawn care service you want, put in your address, and we put your job out to bid to local yard care professionals.
\n\n\n\nThe price quotes you get back will depend on the size of your yard and other factors, but we cast a really wide net through sites like Lawn Love, HomeAdvisor, and Networx to ensure you get the best price possible.
\n\n\n\nSo how do you use LawnStarter?
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/F_Wb07EsZcD87OnSk4go6mMlAV12fhHbrTCo_7hZK9SvfA8oRYI7TWPnv-b22O4pCksryWYZsTMmevIOsekIvXhyk4TM-DuFe0W_GuD8U8_kguJP4_3OY2aEJACul-qQZQjK2sflSXUzmSevEjq3lDMBax2rZozFQEWtZU2AqHsXdzfkYj5kWxKIP7-gRA\")
Visit LawnStarter or log onto the mobile app. Enter your address, name, and phone number into the search bar, and click the “Request Quote” button.
\n\n\n\nNote: LawnStarter’s app offers a more stripped-down menu of services. If you want to book lawn care services, the app works great. If you want other outdoor services, the LawnStarter website is your better option.
\n\n\n\nChoose one or more services from the menu. For lawn care, choose your frequency (weekly, bi-weekly, and monthly).
Click “Get Free Quotes” (after you ensure your contact information is correct, of course).
\n\n\n\nWhat’s next?
\n\n\n\nFor lawn care services: LawnStarter will match you with a lawn care provider near you and your first service will be scheduled.
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter offers more services than competitors Lawn Love and GreenPal, but here’s a closer look at how LawnStarter, Lawn Love, GreenPal, and Wikilawn compare.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ydc33opV1-rL95WHorZodYWXsTeFolKwfQalWcPCkWQx14IDTA0P1ssgldltjXteXKtu2rPtS4tPbsP7TpkkER-JXLek74kQv2Rkh5lOGW0ZeO6XOJ3it1i1XeNxlUK9x96rlQppEj5_DfrrZ5yhrU8-7xzoVvxHMuWr1TPc_ACDoJu8Y_TIDkywyy7Okg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 20+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.8 out of 5 |
| How it works | A LawnStarter pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website, phone, or mobile app |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $19. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Austin, Texas |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NdWBnc_CMKGsu53lEo6S3m8yjOmvI1qXfg1Gn9zQz-c12dlZ20o8SEhPgbhugL5XM8iLLNVTSXWtPRzmZMuSPdvIMGgEyYZNV7eabwPN0Q7RfY_hk3CVtXZpY8TES-Z7F8nmDFUDyK1EgrtxdG-auo9lhx9BF-wlJMtQ4E_qa8jsNiPn4AETl0PJHm1eAg\")
| Metro areas covered | 120+ |
| Services offered | 10+ |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.7 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | A Lawn Love pro near you mows your lawn at the frequency (weekly, biweekly, monthly) you choose. |
| Ways to book service | Website or phone |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and/or mowing frequency. By visiting the website, you may be offered your first mow for $24. |
| Year founded | 2014 |
| Based in | San Diego |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | Yes |
![](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/96aKsbY4azkOr7uppJEgLUvkVRI2hEJ-I8tb-X_d_Z8yqght8QC-DHOvipqesRRZXh6p4Tn1rHJ22MPjAUvSAe4nFw82tDfyONMhKrPzuCdn5CLPWP91VN58np0Y4jBaJJMyW9KIzNpZPkxeg8S_nnfS6tuRyo5v7iZ7YHQXZ8dTIh-Al5wMNog3govGew\")
| Metro areas covered | 100+ |
| Services offered | Lawn care, lawn maintenance, yard cleanups, snow removal |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | 4.6 out of 5 stars |
| How it works | Your lawn mowing is put out for bid to lawn care pros near you |
| Ways to book service | Website, app or phone |
| Basic price | You’ll get multiple lawn mowing quotes from $25 to $45 |
| Year founded | 2012 |
| Based in | Nashville |
| Better Business Bureau accredited? | No |
![\"Wikilawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/rsz_171e64b7d-5080-473b-9793-87d2629a1cca_4_5005_c.jpg\")
| Metro areas covered | Available in most U.S. metro |
| Services offered | Lawn care, gardening, and landscaping |
| Customer reviews (average as of the publishing date) | No ratings available online |
| How it works | You’ll get a quote in minutes from up to 4 professionals who can tackle your lawn care or other outdoor job. |
| Ways to book service | Website |
| Basic price | Depends on services requested and the service providers’ quotes. |
| Year founded | 2013 |
| Based in | Dallas |
No product or service is perfect. Here are what LawnStarter excels and where it needs improvement.
\n\n\n\nPros
\n\n\n\nCons
\n\n\n\nLawnStarter does get high marks from customers (as of this writing).
\n\n\n\nHere are a few of the customer reviews, both positive and negative:
\n\n\n\nWell Done and Thorough: “Good professional work on my large lawn (I am recovering from surgery and cannot push my own lawn machinery around for a number of weeks). Well done, thorough, completes the job. I feel I’ve contracted with a fine lawn service to fill in for me while I’m still unable to do it. … Much appreciated!” – Steve B.
\n\n\n\nSaved Me a Ton of Grief: “They have not failed to come out and do a good job for over 2 years. … (LawnStarter) has saved me a ton of grief for arranging services myself.” – Karl K.
\n\n\n\nFirst Time Wasn’t the Charm: “Our initial (LawnStarter) appointment was missed by the assigned person. After contacting the app, we were assigned a new company and are very happy with them. So far, any issues I have had have been promptly and without any hassle on my part.” – R. McCann
\n\n\n\nBroken Sprinkler Head: “I had my sprinkler head broken several times during my service. Both times I was given the option to have them replace the item or for me to be reimbursed. Both times I selected to have them replaced and both times was told they could not replace it, only offer me a small credit to replace the item.” – Justin
\n\n\n\nWe at Wikilawn make it easy to hire a lawn care pro to keep your grass green and healthy. It often will cost you less than LawnStarter and the other guys, too, because we cast the biggest net of lawn care pros.
\n\n\n\nSo before you go somewhere else, you’re already here.
\n\n\n\nLet Wikilawn find a lawn care pro near you to cut your grass and boost your home’s curb appeal.
\n\n\n\n![](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zYKvKOakIX9l8YnT-rPYa_hqJVssZWRFL9E45BMkrNsYuL8AYV5LgnRAEQYxv0fBZoAllKjSH5NkrS_mDVp5HmPmLfNfSv_Mrfez2OO2rEJlrw8CV05cL-gfLZPLsooafCqv9IBhmtq7DX1kfy7fS4WClSMjVbcgelnybnn1TpCWo5-STXbEo4ePqqP5Gw\")
But, circling back to the beginning of this review … Is the Uber of lawn care legit? We think so.
\n\n\n\nYou trust Uber to get you to the airport or to deliver dinner. Uber is ubiquitous. If you want a fancy app to book your lawn care service, sure, go with the so-called Uber of outdoor services – sorry, Mr. Farley.
\n\n\n\nOr you could just book your lawn care through Wikilawn. (Wink-wink, nudge-nudge.)
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\n","content":"\nYou’re ready to take on the beautiful weather, but your lawn is not. Why is it not green when you just applied fertilizer? A yellow lawn that does not green up or look lush and healthy after it has been fertilized can be a sign that it is time for a lime treatment. This article explores why, when, and how to lime your lawn.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nLime is a soil amendment that is made from ground limestone. Adding lime to a lawn raises the soil pH level, making it more alkaline and less acidic. The lawn is unable to absorb needed nutrients in acidic soil, which keeps the grass from thriving.
\n\n\n\nLime is made from calcium carbonate and other materials, like magnesium carbonate. There are two types of lime: dolomitic and calcitic.
\n\n\n\nCalcitic lime works well on soils that are not deficient in magnesium.
\n\n\n\nDolomitic lime is the most common type of lime used in lawns. It is made from calcium carbonate mixed with magnesium carbonate. Dolomitic lime is higher in magnesium than calcitic lime. If your soil is magnesium deficient, dolomitic lime is the best choice.
\n\n\n\nLime for lawns comes in liquid, powder, and pellet form. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Here are some things to consider for each form:
\n\n\n\nLiquid
\n\n\n\nPowder
\n\n\n\nPellet
\n\n\n\nA lawn growing in overly acidic soil will not get the nutrients it needs when it is fertilized. The grass will experience problems and stop growing. When you add lime to your lawn, you raise the soil’s pH level, making it less acidic. This allows the grass roots to absorb the nutrients your grass needs to grow healthy, like calcium, nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.
\n\n\n\nThe ideal pH for healthy grass is between 5.8 and 7.1. Your type of turfgrass determines where the soil pH level should fall in this range for optimal lawn growth. Warm-season grasses, like St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass, need a slightly lower pH. Cool-season grasses, like fescues and Kentucky bluegrass, require a moderately higher, more alkaline pH.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/4542559854_43a56a102d_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Ryo Chijiiwa / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiming your lawn does not need to be a regular practice. You should only lime a lawn if the soil is too acidic. A soil test will reveal your soil’s pH and nutrient deficiencies, which will tell you whether your lawn needs lime or not.
\n\n\n\nBut what are the tell-tale signs that a soil test is needed? These are indicators that a lawn might need lime:
\n\n\n\nThe ideal time for lime treatments is the fall and spring, with a preference for the fall. Conventional lime products can take months to break down and modify soil acidity. The changes in the weather from fall to spring help these products break down. If you apply lime in fall, it will be broken down by spring, and your soil will be ready for a new year of healthy growth.
\n\n\n\nSome more advanced lime agents start working immediately and can be applied any season.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou do not want to add too much lime too often. Soil that is too acidic should be tested annually until it is at the ideal pH level. Give the lime application time to work. If you added lime in the spring, test the soil again in the fall, and vice versa.
\n\n\n\nOnce the soil pH is balanced, test it every 1 to 2 years. Only apply lime again if the pH drops below the ideal range.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJust like there is an ideal time to lime your lawn, there are also times when you should avoid applying it. To make sure your lime treatment is effective, do not add lime in the following conditions:
\n\n\n\nThere are some things you will need to do to prepare your lawn for lime treatment. You will need to know your lawn’s size. Be sure to wear protective gear, like gloves and a mask.
\n\n\n\nHere are the preparatory and application steps to lime your lawn:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Soil](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Soil-Testing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: CSIRO / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBefore you lime your grass, always start with a soil pH test. Liming when you do not need to can harm your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYour soil type will determine the amount of lime you need to add to increase or decrease the soil pH. Homeowners should contact their local county extension office to inquire about receiving a soil test kit and sending in a soil sample. Although a kit can be purchased from a local garden center, the county extension service will provide a more accurate report.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab, Inc. / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf there is a significant layer of thatch between the grass and the soil, dethatch the lawn before aerating. Dethatching removes organic debris that could prevent lime from getting to the soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Grass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/f5363534-cb37-4d68-a32a-0b9c32dca178.jpg\")
Photo Credit: macniak / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUse a core aerator to loosen the soil before applying lime. Lawn aeration opens up small holes in compacted soil, allowing soil amendments like lime to break down more easily.
\n\n\n\nThe dethatching and aeration process does not have to immediately precede lime application. In the case of warm-season grasses, which should not be dethatched and aerated in the fall, it is okay to do so in late spring and add lime in the fall. You can also dethatch and aerate in the late spring and lime afterward.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses can be dethatched and aerated in the fall right before you add lime.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Lime-Pellets-for-Lawn-Care.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Imagesbybarbara / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe soil test results will typically recommend how many pounds of lime are needed per 1,000 square feet. If the grass needs between 50 and 100 pounds, apply it in two different applications. Administer the first half in the spring and the remaining amount in the fall. Never put more than 50 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet on the grass at one time.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPhoto Credit: Jon Rehg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLime Pellets. Use a drop spreader or rotary spreader and disseminate half of the lime by walking across your lawn in parallel lines, back and forth. After the first round of application, apply the remaining lime by walking in lines perpendicular to your first application. This will increase your chances of thorough coverage.
\n\n\n\nLiquid Lime. Read the product label to determine how much you will need to apply. Walk across your lawn in straight lines as you spray, just like with pellets. Spray side-to-side as you walk for uniform coverage.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Watering-Hose.jpg\")
Photo Credit: AnthonyRosenberg / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHelp the lime soak into the soil by watering the lawn. This will also keep lime from sitting on the grass blades and burning them. For liquid lime, follow the package instructions regarding how soon to water after application.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYes. A lawn with too much lime can change the pH of the soil to a level that prevents the grass from thriving. It can create overly alkaline soil, preventing grass blades from getting the nutrients they need. The grass can eventually turn yellow and die if too much lime continues to be added.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHomeowners should wear a mask when handling powder lime. Pellet lime may be attractive to pets and children, so be sure to keep them off the lawn while the pellets are still visible. Lime pellets are harmful if ingested and can irritate the skin and eyes.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRunoff from heavy rainfall can remove calcium from the soil. Calcium loss leads to a drop in pH and, eventually, acidic soil. If your area does not get heavy rain, calcium is not removed from runoff, and the grass can become overly alkaline. Maintaining your lawn appropriately, including watering and fertilizing it, will also eventually lower the pH level.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNo. If your lawn needs a lime application, that means it is too acidic and cannot properly absorb the nutrients from fertilizer. You’ll need to add the lime first and give it a few months to absorb into the soil. After a few months, test your soil again. If the soil pH is within the appropriate range, you can then fertilize the lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nLiming your lawn is an art and science. You need to know when to lime, what type of lime to use, the best time of year for lime treatments, and the best form of lime to apply. This is the science. The art is in the ability to produce a beautiful lawn for years to come.
\n\n\n\n
You do not have to deal with the intricacies of liming your lawn and other landscaping tasks on your own. From adding lime to controlling weeds to mowing the grass, WikiLawn can connect you with qualified lawn care pros in your area to handle all your lawn care needs.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/DsPkopj6RHtdHE9HXf7RqbO-yXYwD86hdHCc0tsrSi6xzCct--93MLshKTLLinUp9WEWX8F_Iu-L70jTEGFkcs2mB6MWgb-8NJzK0bLeyNtaXvNb3P5FE9OWVaUfyjlPAnTfa_bxLicAq9n3hw\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YmTKd0J57L8dY9g5QF2mSB1CxKB91eK2a--hUA-er__hTUSNFLx6uSZPHU1X2FMPfgDOqVnaUAOTYiVD4MuZDIZg_9MFyz0b5qtU6GeUO0HkktkJ508hYOGztv7DvW_KJ5s0i-yxUZgQYdWoXA\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jvjmWlU9qi9KgOf5g7dtsfdSWxfo8Uv2dyuFP89PYdD_fSP0fTG289tOhbu0PhQ722GWPo297sZoJn7OObm7I1h9wbD07tcFmTE2BYghR_siM3eOlmgV7eYX1VCI7OQ-7oYTMY09l1VUTLQK2w\")
![\"Dollar](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_15303286489_3f105d8145_c.jpg\")