![\"cool-season](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/cool-season-and-warm-season-grass-map.jpg\")
You spent a ton of money on landscaping but forgot to add a drainage system. If standing water is now causing problems, homeowners should look into a French drain. Why? Benefits of a French drain include that it prevents standing water, stops soil erosion, and protects your home’s foundation. In this article we’ll cover these […]
\n","content":"\nYou spent a ton of money on landscaping but forgot to add a drainage system. If standing water is now causing problems, homeowners should look into a French drain. Why? Benefits of a French drain include that it prevents standing water, stops soil erosion, and protects your home’s foundation.
\n\n\n\nIn this article we’ll cover these topics:
\n\n\n\nIt sounds a little ooh-la-la but a French drain is simply a trench dug into the ground for excess water to drain out of your yard. Built on a slight slope, a French drain can be 6 inches in diameter to a couple of feet, the wider the better. It functions a bit like the gutters on your house by forcing the water flow downhill and away from your home’s foundation.
\n\n\n\nMost French drains now have a perforated pipe in the trench, although the original drains simply used gravel or small rocks on top of a ditch. The rock element is used whether there is a pipe or not, as it’s permeable and water flows through.
\n\n\n\nThis underground drainage system works well for lawns with poor drainage.
\n\n\n\nExcess water from your yard flows through the French drain and into the street gutter or a dry well. And because a perforated pipe is used, water is collected throughout the entire drainage system.
\n\n\n\nIf your yard repeatedly floods or you experience basement flooding, a French drain may work for you. If there is always standing water in your yard after a good rain, this may be a good drainage solution. Even if you have a sump pump in your basement, an interior French drain can help by redirecting excess water to the sump, where it can then be pumped out.
\n\n\n\nIf you have a retaining wall or are building one on a hill or slope, a French drain system will keep water from pooling at the bottom of the wall or running toward your home. A French drain redirects surface water away from the retaining wall so it won’t undermine the structure.
\n\n\n\nHere are four benefits of installing a French drain in your yard.
\n\n\n\nA French drain:
\n\n\n\nPrevents Standing Water
\n\n\n\nMosquitoes love puddles. Standing water in your lawn becomes a breeding ground for the pesky and sometimes disease-carrying bugs.
\n\n\n\nExcess water encourages mold and fungus growth on your grass and even kills it and other plants by drowning them. That, in turn, creates mud that gets tracked into your house.
\n\n\n\nA French drain removes standing water by draining it downhill. It redirects the overflow to run through the trench, into the street gutter and down the storm drain.
\n\n\n\nStops Soil Erosion
\n\n\n\nHealthy soil is a must for a lush, green lawn. Too much surface water may cause soil erosion by washing away topsoil, the top layer that’s necessary for the growth of grass and plants. That may leave you with a muddy, grass-less mess. Adding a French drain to your yard keeps topsoil right where it needs to be, ensuring that your lawn and landscaping remain bright and healthy.
\n\n\n\nProtects Home’s Foundation
\n\n\n\nA huge benefit of a French drain is the protection it provides for your home’s foundation and basement.
\n\n\n\nWhen water builds up against foundations, the hydrostatic pressure (the constant force the water puts on your basement walls) can erode the concrete and threaten the structural integrity of the foundation. How to prevent this? A homeowner or builder might include a French drain system in the basement waterproofing.
\n\n\n\nWooden foundations and crawl spaces are also susceptible to damage from water pressure, as the wood can rot and crumble and concrete footings can crack.
\n\n\n\nFrench drains work particularly well in land with clay soil. This type of soil drains slowly, so adding a trench to the yard removes water before it can cause damage to your property.
\n\n\n\nThe same principle applies when building a retaining wall in your yard. A French drain removes hydrostatic pressure from the wall, keeping it stable and in place.
\n\n\n\nAdds Value
\n\n\n\nA French drain is beneficial beyond removing excess water from your yard; it can add value to your property by protecting your home’s foundation. Prospective buyers want to know that their home won’t be threatened by standing water and a French drain gives them that peace of mind.
\n\n\n\nDepending on how decorative you make the trench, a French drain also adds a pleasant hardscaping element to your lawn. You can use colored rocks instead of gravel, smooth or rough and different shapes and sizes. River rock, for example, gives the look of a dry creek bed.
\n\n\n\nSome homeowners use plants to camouflage the French drain. Flowers or other plants run the length of the trench, hiding the trench. You can also add borders around the French drain of concrete, pavers, or crushed quartz.
\n\n\n\nHere are some potential problems to be aware of if you’re considering a French drain for your yard.
\n\n\n\nClogs
\n\n\n\nA clogged drain is an inefficient drain and can even cause damage. Clogging is the biggest issue French drain owners face. Water often carries sediment through the pipe, creating mud that may cause blockages.
\n\n\n\nClogs are also caused by the roots of trees, grass, and scrubs encroaching on the pipe and trench. When a French drain is clogged, water isn’t properly redirected. This leads to leaks that may damage your home’s foundation or create standing water in other areas.
\n\n\n\nBackflow
\n\n\n\nBackflow is when groundwater seeps into the soil and the dry well fills up, leaving excess water with nowhere to go. This causes the water flow to go back up the drainage system and leave standing water in the basement or in the original problem area.
\n\n\n\nHomeowners with access to the city gutters and storm sewer system don’t usually have this problem. Those without that access may have to redirect the water somewhere else.
\n\n\n\nZoning Rules
\n\n\n\nIt’s key to know city zoning rules BEFORE you start a French drain installation, so check with your local zoning board to see if you need a permit.
\n\n\n\nIt’s imperative that homeowners not dig into utility lines. Call 811 and put in a utility line locator request before you lift that first shovel full of dirt.
\n\n\n\nThere’s quite a bit of digging involved but a French drain can be a DIY project. Factors on deciding whether to tackle it yourself include the length and depth of the ditch and what kind of hardscape you choose to surround it with.
\n\n\n\nAs a bonus, installing a French drain won’t cost you a fortune or take much time, and your yard won’t be wrecked as a result. You only need to consult a professional to ensure the French drain is being installed correctly.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Geograph | CC BY-SA 2.0
\n","title":"Benefits of a French Drain","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/1789c/rsz_untitled_design.jpg","srcSet":"/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/107df/rsz_untitled_design.jpg 320w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/293e9/rsz_untitled_design.jpg 500w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/f2cbb/rsz_untitled_design.jpg 800w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/1789c/rsz_untitled_design.jpg 960w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/c26c2/rsz_untitled_design.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/1dd6e/rsz_untitled_design.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/67b76/rsz_untitled_design.webp 320w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/8df11/rsz_untitled_design.webp 500w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/98a65/rsz_untitled_design.webp 800w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/1dd6e/rsz_untitled_design.webp 960w,\n/static/cdd804e86de3157b9aa63721696c5dbd/3cc96/rsz_untitled_design.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Benefits of a French Drain | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Benefits of a French drain include that it prevents standing water, stops soil erosion, and protects your home's foundation."}},"relatedPosts":[{"node":{"id":"53e3700b-c3ef-578e-9ab5-2cbee2ccab48","slug":"cool-season-grasses","path":"/blog/cool-season-grasses/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2023","excerpt":"Not all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing […]
\n","content":"\nNot all grass is the same. There are variations in grass types across the country, which can affect the best way to care for your lawn. If you live in the northern part of the U.S., you likely have a cool-season grass type growing in your yard. What does that mean? This cool-season grass growing guide will teach you about these grass types and the best ways to maintain them.
\n\n\n\nIn this guide:
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are grasses that grow mostly in the spring and fall in the northern regions of the U.S. These grasses include tall fescue, fine fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. They grow and thrive during cooler temperatures between 60 to 75 degrees, and they withstand extremely cold temperatures well.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses are perennials. Therefore, they will come back year after year if they are cared for properly. Although they thrive in cool regions, some of these grasses are also drought-tolerant and can thrive in hotter regions. However, when it is hot, they tend to become dormant until the weather cools. Sometimes, they develop lawn diseases in extreme heat and drought.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMost cool-season grasses are native to northern regions of the U.S. See the map below to find out if you live in the cool-season grass growing zone, the warm-season grass growing zone, or the transition zone, where both cool-season and warm-season grasses can thrive.
\n\n\nIllustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n\n\n\nHere are some states where you can expect cool-season grasses to grow:
\n\n\n\nIf you reside in one of these states, you most likely have cool-season grass growing in your yard. For more help identifying the grass your lawn is made of, you can contact your local Cooperative Extension Office.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you already know, cool-season grasses thrive in areas where the temperatures are much cooler throughout the year. Warm-season grasses, on the other hand, grow best in hot summer temperatures, so they tend to grow in the South.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses grow most actively in temperatures from 75 to 95 degrees. They become dormant below 55 degrees. Popular warm-season grasses include centipedegrass, Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Bahiagrass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe most popular cool-season grass types for lawns in the northern U.S. include:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Tall-Fescue-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nIf your grass is a medium to dark green color and grows out of the ground as a wide blade that ends at a point, like a ribbed sword, it is likely you have tall fescue grass growing in your yard. It is a very coarse grass that grows in bunches.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type can handle drought and foot traffic well, but it is a high-maintenance grass. While it may not need fertilizer and water as much as other cool-season grasses, it will require frequent mowing because it grows pretty fast.
\n\n\n\n![\"Close](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Fine-Fescue-Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aaron Patton / Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Program
\n\n\n\nWhen you have fine fescue growing on your lawn, you know it because it is a slender, green-bladed grass type that tends to wilt as it grows. It is not grass that sticks upward like tall fescue. Because it is much thinner, it has a low tolerance for foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nOn a brighter note, this grass can tolerate drought well, and you may see fine fescue in the transition zone. Another excellent quality is that this particular grass doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grasses. There are four common types of fine fescue, including creeping red fescue, Chewings fescue, hard fescue, and sheep fescue.
\n\n\n\n![\"Backyard](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/kentucky-bluegrass-yard.jpeg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\nWhen observing your grass, if you notice that it has a moderate to dark green hue and is a thin blade with a canoe shape, you probably have Kentucky bluegrass. This grass is sturdy and can grow well in the transition zone. But it will go dormant when temperatures rise above 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
\n\n\n\nThis type of grass can tolerate high foot traffic, making it great for recreational use. However, it is also high maintenance since it needs frequent mowing and lots of irrigation.
\n\n\n\n![\"closeup](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Perennial-Ryegrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nIf you have perennial ryegrass growing in your yard, it tends to be pale green in color and is slender in shape and pointed as it grows. One of its best qualities is that it can stand plenty of foot traffic. It is often combined with Kentucky bluegrass.
\n\n\n\nThis grass type will require lots of cutting and irrigation. It will also need plenty of sun.
\n\n\n\nSo, you’ve determined that you have one of the common cool-season grasses on your lawn. That’s a great first step in improving your lawn’s health! Knowing your grass type means you can tailor your lawn care practices to your grass’s specific needs.
\n\n\n\nHere are some ways to keep your cool-season grass healthy and ensure a green lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/24445181093_9f2de37aff_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen it comes to watering cool-season grasses, it is ideal to water less often for longer periods so that the water can penetrate the root system. Deep irrigation once a week, ensuring that the grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water, is ideal.
\n\n\n\nOnly water the grass when temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the chances of water freezing on the grass blades. Also, water the grass in the morning, preferably before 8 a.m., as watering in the middle of the day leads to excess evaporation, and evening watering may encourage the growth of lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nKeeping up with a proper lawn irrigation schedule – especially if you want to water the lawn early in the morning before you typically wake up – can be much easier if you install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system with an automatic timer.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/solar-panels-working-8-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: groveb / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nNature provides a majority of what cool-season grasses need to thrive. However, fertilizers can help make your lawn healthier and protect it. Not all fertilizers are the same, however. You must choose the right one for your cool-season grass.
\n\n\n\nIt is ideal to fertilize your lawn at least once a year, preferably in the fall. Overfertilizing your grass can damage it or even kill it, especially if you fertilize in the middle of summer when your cool-season grass is dormant.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/8704115339_808a6b275c_c-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Oregon State University / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen growing cool-season grasses, lawn aeration is also important. This is the process of taking a spike or plug aeration tool and sticking it into the soil to loosen up compacted soil. Aeration allows fresh air, nutrients, and water to penetrate deeper into your grass for better health and growth.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll only need aeration once a year, if that, and it should be done in the fall for cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dethatcher2-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Agri-Fab / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\nOver time, as you water, mow, and fertilize your grass, a small layer of dead and living organic matter called thatch will develop close to the soil. This can make it difficult for water and nutrients to penetrate through the soil to your grass’s roots and can also attract lawn pests.
\n\n\n\nIf this thatch buildup becomes more than one inch thick, it is time to dethatch your lawn using a dethatching rake or mechanical dethatching tool. Cool-season grasses should be dethatched in fall during their most active growth period.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Mowing.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Prasannanossam3 / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\nMowing will vary according to the type of cool-season grass you have in your yard or want to plant. Fine fescue doesn’t require mowing as often as other cool-season grass types. When mowing your grass, make sure that you avoid cutting more than one-third of its height at once.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grass will grow the fastest and need the most frequent mowing in spring and fall. In summer, it’s best to allow your cool-season grass to grow as long as you’re willing to. Longer grass means deeper roots, which means increased drought tolerance. Tall grass also shades the soil and helps it retain water, which is crucial for cool-season grasses in the summer heat.
\n\n\n\nFor best results, ensure that your mower’s blades are sharp to keep the grass from becoming vulnerable to disease and pests. Additionally, make sure the lawn mower blades are clean after previous clippings so that you won’t inadvertently spread disease around the yard from infected blades.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDiseases and pests are two destructive elements that can attack cool-season grasses. Keep in mind there isn’t a one-size fits all process for eliminating disease or pests from your grass. You must identify the specific pest or disease destroying your grass to ensure you use the right fungicide or insecticide. Otherwise, the treatment won’t be effective at all.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Hands](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/crabgrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sergii Petruk / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nAnother problem you may encounter is weeds. Unfortunately, they can compete with your cool-season grass for resources. Some of the most common lawn weeds affecting cool-season grasses include but are not limited to the following:
\n\n\n\nTo eliminate these weeds, you’ll have to make sure you treat them properly. Treatments include pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides will block weeds from growing in your yard. They prevent weeds from growing by interrupting the growth process at the start. Ideally, it’s good to use such herbicides when temperatures are between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Pre-emergent herbicides will do nothing to stop weeds that are already growing in your yard.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThese types of herbicides are used to treat weeds that are currently growing in your yard. They may be liquid or granular. It is critical that you use such herbicides when it is less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors. Following manufacturer guidelines for application is best.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDamage to your grass can be corrected when you overseed your lawn. This is the process of spreading grass in bare spots to encourage a healthier lawn.
\n\n\n\nIf you have recently had a disease on your lawn or you have damaged your grass with fertilizer, adding grass seed helps fill in the thinning grass. For cool-season grasses, overseed in fall at least 45 days before the first frost.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFind specific lawn care tips for every season in this cool-season lawn maintenance calendar.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses prefer the cooler regions of the Northern U.S. However, it is possible for cool-season grasses to grow in warmer climates in the transition zone.
Kentucky bluegrass is a cool-season grass that can grow in warmer regions. If it gets too hot for this grass to grow, dormancy will set in.
For cool-season grasses, the dormant period typically begins in winter when temperatures dip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the year. In northern regions, this can be in the fall.
Cool-season grasses may also go dormant in summer if the temperatures stay above about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If this happens, the grass will turn brown to conserve energy, but it will spring back to life come cooler weather.
The best time to plant cool-season grasses is in the early fall when temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
If maintaining grass isn’t your favorite thing to do, consider hiring a local lawn care pro who will help maintain a healthy lawn and keep it vibrant throughout the growing season. Local pros will know how to deal with all kinds of cool-season grasses, including the specific type in your yard.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: mccawleyphoto / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg","srcSet":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/107df/cool-season-grass.jpg 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/293e9/cool-season-grass.jpg 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/f2cbb/cool-season-grass.jpg 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1789c/cool-season-grass.jpg 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/c26c2/cool-season-grass.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/67b76/cool-season-grass.webp 320w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/8df11/cool-season-grass.webp 500w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/98a65/cool-season-grass.webp 800w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/1dd6e/cool-season-grass.webp 960w,\n/static/6bb53906aecae0b2f560fb01db951992/3cc96/cool-season-grass.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Cool-Season Grasses | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"If you live in the northern U.S., this guide to cool-season grasses can help you identify your grass type and take care of it properly."}}},{"node":{"id":"63adb127-ed71-5bd0-8659-5015876f0e14","slug":"warm-season-grasses-guide","path":"/blog/warm-season-grasses-guide/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Mel Childs","id":"5e563fe7-34e1-5dc2-bc00-a1e777e5dfd5","path":"/author/melisha-childslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8fb37d81bb775d323e0028ec06cb650f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"May 5th, 2023","excerpt":"Grass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy. In This Guide: What Are Warm-Season Grasses? Warm-season […]
\n","content":"\nGrass is just grass, right? Not hardly. If you live in southern U.S. states, you most likely have a warm-season grass for your lawn. This guide to warm-season grasses will explain why these are your best choices and detail how to keep your lawn green and healthy.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses thrive in the southern U.S., where temperatures pretty consistently remain between 75 and 95 degrees. Warm-season grasses tend to go dormant when the temperature drops below 55 degrees.
\n\n\n\nThe most common types of warm-season grasses are:
\n\n\n\nCertain grass types similarly are common in other regions of the country.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses: These grasses typically thrive well in cooler climates of the northern United States and can withstand colder temperatures better than warm-season grasses. Some cool-season grasses also have strong drought tolerance.
\n\n\n\nCool-season grasses include fine fescues, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses: If you live in a band across the middle of the U.S., also known as the transition zone, you can choose from warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses.
\n\n\n\nRule of thumb: Though you have a wider range of grass choices in the transition zone, homeowners in the northern part tend to choose a cool-season grass, and if your home is in the southern part you likely would choose a warm-season grass.
\n\n\n\nif you aren’t sure what type of grass you have, contact your local Cooperative Extension office to help you learn the type of grass you have in your yard.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses include bahiagrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass. Here’s what you need to know about each of these warm-season grasses:
\n\n\n\n![\"Bahiagrass](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Bahiagrass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Forest and Kim Starr / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBahiagrass is very drought tolerant, disease tolerant, and pest-tolerant, and it’s low maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bahiagrass: Blades form in a Y shape as they grow.
\n\n\n\nBahiagrass can handle a considerable amount of foot traffic but needs frequent mowing because of the seedheads that sprout from the grass. This tough flowering part of the grass can take a toll on mowers, so keep your blades sharp as possible when mowing this grass.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Bermudagrass-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pexels
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBermudagrass is sun loving, drought tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. The only downsides? This grass requires a lot of maintenance and treatments for some common lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have bermudagrass: Your grass blades are light- or dark-colored and resemble the foot of a bird. Bermudagrass spreads by rhizomes and stolons, and you may see them creeping out of your yard toward the sidewalk.
\n\n\n\n![\"beautiful](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Centipede_Grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: James Becwar JamesBecwar / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCentipedegrass is a low-maintenance grass that is not prone to many lawn diseases. The only downside? Centipedegrass doesn’t handle foot traffic well.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have centipedegrass: This grass has a light green color and rounded blade tip. Centipedegrass spreads by stolons and has a dense look and coarse texture. Its dense, fast growth helps naturally prevent weeds.
\n\n\n\n![\"Bubble](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Bubble-on-St.-Augustine-grass.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Jay Morgan / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSt. Augustinegrass looks gorgeous, stands up well to foot traffic, and is ideal in coastal areas because it handles the salty environment well. Downside? This grass will require moderate maintenance.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have St. Augustinegrass: This grass has a rich dark green color and coarse texture. St. Augustinegrass is spread by stolons.
\n\n\n\n![\"Green](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/zoysiagrass-4.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Russbach at the English Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZoysiagrass is very drought-tolerant and can handle a lot of foot traffic. Additionally, it is generally a low-maintenance grass option but will require frequent mowing. Unfortunately, this grass is susceptible to lots of lawn diseases, but it does naturally resist weeds.
\n\n\n\nHow to tell if you have Zoysia: This grass has pointy, narrow blades. This grass can look very fine, or it can appear to be very coarse, depending on the cultivar.
\n\n\n\nHere’s a an easy-to-skim comparison of warm-season grasses, highlighting their foot traffic tolerance, drought-heat tolerance, maintenance, and disease susceptibility:
| Bahiagrass | Bermudagrass | Centipedegrass | St.Augustinegrass | Zoysiagrass | |
| Foot Traffic Tolerance | Moderate | High | Low | Moderate | High |
| Drought/Heat Tolerance | Very High | High | Moderate | Moderate | High |
| Maintenance | Low | High | Low | Moderate | Low to Moderate |
| Disease Susceptibility | Low Develops leaf spot | High Develops spring dead spot, dollar spot, large patch, leaf spot, rust | Moderate Develops large patch (aka brown patch) | High Develops gray leaf spot, take-all root rot, pythium root rot, brown patch, fairy ring | Moderate Develops brown patch, rust, dollar spot, powdery mildew, fairy ring, pythium blight |
To keep your warm-season grasses healthy throughout the year you’ll need to:
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/rsz_4353671803_e0e987132b_c.jpg\")
Photo Credit: sean hobson / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMowing your lawn is one of the most important lawn care and maintenance tasks. Consistent mowing keeps pests and lawn diseases at bay.
\n\n\n\nBefore mowing season starts, sharpen your lawn mower’s blades – and keep them sharp. Here’s why: Cutting your grass with dull blades can put stress on your grass, making your lawn susceptible to pests and disease.
\n\n\n\nMowing Frequency: Most warn-season grasses need to be mowed weekly, but check the details above for your particular grass type. Mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nMowing Height: As the growing season progresses, you will lower and raise your lawn mower’s blades to various heights. In summer, keep a higher grass height to avoid scalping and allow for more moisture to remain in your grass.
\n\n\n\nRule of Thumb: Don’t cut more than ⅓ of the height of your warm-season grass. Additionally, mow your grass until late fall when dormancy starts to set in, and the grass stops growing.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: Keep your mower blades clean between cuttings, particularly if your grass has recently had a lawn disease. This will prevent the spread of disease to other parts of our grass.
\n\n\n\nIf this all seems like way too much work and you don’t want to push your lawn mower around your yard, hire a lawn care pro near you.
\n\n\n\n![\"Set](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Wikilawn-Sprinklers.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Aqua Mechanical / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEnsure that your warm-season grass gets about 1 to 1.5 inches of water from a combination of rain and your sprinkler system. Note and abide by any local watering restrictions.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Ideally, water your grass before 8 a.m. This will minimize the growth of disease and water from evaporating during warmer parts of the day before it penetrates the soil. Avoid watering in temperatures below 40 degrees, as this could damage the grass.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If you want your grass to have a strong root system, water for longer periods less frequently.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dollarweed](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Dollarweed-also-called-floating-pennywort-water-pennywort-Indian-pennywort-marsh-penny-thick-leaved-pennywort.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dariusz Kowalczyk / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWeeds are another problem that could spring up in your lawn. How weeds damage your lawn: Weeds compete for nutrients that your grass needs.
\n\n\n\nIdentifying the weed (or weeds) in your yard is the starting point for treatment.
\n\n\n\nWith warm-season grasses, you may come across warm-season weeds, which include the following:
\n\n\n\nYou will need to treat these and other types of warm-season weeds with either a pre-emergent herbicide or post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nPre-emergent herbicides attack weeds below ground before they germinate, blocking weeds from sprouting. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in spring when the soil temperature is around 55 degrees and in fall when temperatures are around 70 degrees.
\n\n\n\nPost-emergent herbicides are a spray-and-shoot option to get rid of weeds you see on your lawn. Apply post-emergent herbicides in summer (or whenever dandelions take up residence in your yard).
\n\n\n\nYou can also get rid of weeds by pulling them up by hand. Wear garden gloves to keep your hands from getting dirty.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Lawn-Fertilizer-Spreader.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Dion Hinchcliffe / Flickr / CC BY-SA 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nApply fertilizer to feed your grass by giving the soil the nutrients it needs to help grass grow and maintain a healthy green color.
\n\n\n\nSomething as simple as grass clippings can fertilize your grass, but you also may want to apply synthetic fertilizers for vibrant and healthy grass throughout the growing season.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Every four to six weeks and even longer between fertilizing if you use slow-release fertilizers.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: The most important thing is that you don’t over-fertilize your grass because this could kill it and leave patches throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\n![\"Lawn](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Lawn-Aeration-Tool.jpg\")
Photo Credit: allispossible.org.uk / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAeration minimizes soil compaction and is another way to ensure your grass and soil get all the needed nutrients, particularly air. How to aerate your soil: You can use an aeration tool, aeration shoes, or a spike to poke holes in the ground, loosening compacted soil and letting in more air.
\n\n\n\nTiming: For warm-season grasses, it’s best to aerate your lawn in summer.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: Aerate once a year for highly compacted soil types such as clay. However, if you have a sandy soil type, you may need to aerate your soil only every three years.
\n\n\n\n![\"dethatcher](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/hand-scarifiers-g35cd23e32_1920-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Pixabay
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf a small layer of dead and living organic matter builds up at the base of your grass, close to the soil, that is called thatch. This can make it hard for your grass to breathe.
\n\n\n\nWhat is dethatching? You must clear away this debris with a dethatching tool such as a rake or a mechanical tool.
\n\n\n\nFrequency: You should dethatch your grass at least every five years or when thatch gets thicker than 1 inch.
\n\n\n\nPro Tip: If your lawn is prone to thatching, check for thatch annually.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Brown_Patch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Scot Nelson / Wikimedia Commons / CC0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTwo of the most damaging threats to your grass are lawn pests and lawn diseases.
\n\n\n\nGrubs, for example, will feed on your grass until they become mature adults unless you treat them with pesticides. Grubs are the white larvae you see on your grass from beetles that may have infested your yard in the previous season.
\n\n\n\nYour grass also may be damaged by lawn diseases. Some lawn diseases attack the root, while others attack the leaf blades of your grass.
\n\n\n\nYou will need to identify the lawn disease before applying a fungicide to eliminate the problem. Otherwise, applying the wrong treatment could create even worse problems.
\n\n\n\n![\"Overseeding](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/rsz_2img_3650.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Brenda Ryan / Wikilawn
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOverseeding fills in patches and makes your lawn thicker and stronger. A patchy lawn can be the result of scalping or the result of some lawn disease or pest (armyworms, for example).
\n\n\n\nHow to overseed your lawn: It’s best to overseed warm-season grasses with a cool-season grass such as perennial ryegrass.
\n\n\n\nTiming: Overseed your warm-season grass in mid-October to mid-November. This ensures your overseeded grass remains moist. By the time spring comes around, your lawn’s patches should be slowly disappearing as overseeded areas start to bloom.
\n\n\n\nIn addition to pests, you may also start to see weeds more frequently in mid to late summer. As you see weeds, spot-treat them with a post-emergent herbicide.
\n\n\n\nYes. It is possible to plant warm-season grasses in cool regions. However, since they thrive in temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, they will go dormant and turn brown when it gets too cold for these grasses. Once it warms up again, they will turn green.
No. Both warm- and cool-season grasses are susceptible to lawn diseases. They just may succumb to lawn disease at different times of the year.
For example, cool-season grasses may develop lawn diseases in summer, while warm-season grasses develop lawn diseases in late all through early spring.
Yes. Warm-season grasses tend to be more drought-resistant than many of the cool-season grasses. Also, note that some warm-season grasses are more drought-resistant than others.
Not every homeowner has a green thumb when it comes to taking care of grass. There are many rules to abide by to keep your warm-season grass looking its best.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather not spend hours on yard work every week, turn over this task to a local lawn care pro who can regularly maintain your grass.
\n\n\n\nMain Photo Credit: Illustration by Juan Rodriguez
\n","title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.444043321299639,"src":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/107df/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/293e9/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/f2cbb/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1789c/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/c26c2/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/67b76/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 320w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/8df11/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 500w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/98a65/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 800w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/1dd6e/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 960w,\n/static/d035393a5e0918d7aa41475c6e778b2a/3cc96/Cool-Season-Warm-Season-Transition-Zone.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Guide to Warm-Season Grasses","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Warm-season grasses are best suited for the warmer climate across the southern U.S. We’ll show you how to care for Zoysia and other warm-season grasses."}}},{"node":{"id":"8b1ccec7-8674-5ebe-a821-930ad25bdf16","slug":"hydroseeding","path":"/blog/hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Starting a new lawn from scratch may seem daunting. Seeding takes effort and takes a while to show results; laying sod, on the other hand, is instant but expensive. Well, let us introduce you to a third option: hydroseeding, also called hydraulic mulch seeding. In this article: Hydroseeding Explained Hydroseeding is pretty straightforward: It’s just […]
\n","content":"\nStarting a new lawn from scratch may seem daunting. Seeding takes effort and takes a while to show results; laying sod, on the other hand, is instant but expensive. Well, let us introduce you to a third option: hydroseeding, also called hydraulic mulch seeding.
\n\n\n\nIn this article:
\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is pretty straightforward: It’s just the process of seeding an area using a slurry. This slurry is composed primarily of water, seeds, mulch, and fertilizer, but some hydroseed mixtures also include lawn-friendly dye and a tackifier. Here’s what each slurry component brings to the table.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWater is the main component and what makes the hydroseed mixture fluid enough to be a sprayable slurry (it’s also where the “hydro” comes from). When mixed with mulch, the slurry becomes denser, heavier, and sticky, helping the slurry stick to the soil. The abundant water also makes the seeds germinate and grow faster compared to those that were hand-seeded.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOne of the advantages of hydroseeding is that you can pick and choose what types of grass seeds you want to include in your hydroseed slurry. With sod, you can only typically use one type of turf.
\n\n\n\nWhile many hydroseeding slurries use grass seeds, you can also use the seeds of different types of plants. Some hydroseed projects use wildflower seeds, for example.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"image](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/mulch-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: christina rutz / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
\n\n\n\nWhen mixed with water, mulch helps seeds stick to the soil. It also has other functions, mainly protecting seeds from the elements like wind, sunlight, and temperature fluctuations. Mulch also nourishes the growing grass seedlings as it starts decomposing.
\n\n\n\nHydroseed slurries can use a variety of mulches with different levels of effectiveness. Here are some of them:
\n\n\n\nThe last crucial component of a hydroseed slurry is the fertilizer. It contains nutrients that will feed your new grass as it grows to become a healthy lawn. The fertilizer typically doesn’t last throughout the growing period, so it’s a good idea to fertilize your new lawn again later on.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor the best results, the hydroseed slurry should be sprayed evenly across bare soil. A lawn-friendly dye helps show where the slurry has already been sprayed to ensure even coverage. This component is optional, though.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs the area you’re hydroseeding prone to soil erosion and runoff? Your hydroseed mixture might need a tackifier, which is a binding agent that helps the slurry stick to the soil. Typically, flat lawns don’t need a tackifier, as there’s little erosion risk.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeded-lawn-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nSo what makes hydroseeding a great seeding method? Here are some benefits of hydroseeding and hydroseeded lawns:
\n\n\n\nHowever, hydroseeding is not perfect. Here are some disadvantages of hydroseeding:
\n\n\n\nThe most enticing aspect of sod is how it gives you a beautiful lawn very fast; after a short waiting period, you’ll be able to walk on your new lawn. Laying sod has a few disadvantages, though. It can look artificial, and it’s typically less hardy than a hydroseeded or traditionally-seeded lawn. It’s also more expensive to boot.
\n\n\n\nIf you can get past the wait time, hydroseeding seems like the better option, and not just because of the lower price tag. Although it takes a while to grow, seeded lawns (including hydroseeded lawns) are hardier and more disease-resistant than sod because they have stronger root systems. Hydroseed also offers more customization and looks more natural than sod.
\n\n\n\nHowever, hydroseeded lawns are more delicate while they’re growing. They need a lot of water and can’t be walked on for about 5 weeks. Since you’re growing grass from seed, you also can’t hydroseed outside of your turf’s growing season, while you can install sod at any time of year.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTraditional seeding is the cheapest seeding method and is as customizable as hydroseeding; however, it has a whole slew of disadvantages that may deter you from hand-seeding your lawn. Hand-seeding takes longer, and traditionally seeded lawns take longer to germinate. It may even grow patchy, requiring more work for your lawn to look uniform.
\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is more expensive and uses more water, but it’s more convenient. Hydroseeded lawns also sprout faster and tend to grow more uniformly than traditionally seeded lawns.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Hydroseeding-of-Lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe best time to hydroseed is the same as if you were hand-seeding; always hydroseed during the turf’s growing season. Warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass and Bahiagrass should be hydroseeded in late spring or early summer, while cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues should be hydroseeded in late summer or early fall.
\n\n\n\nLet’s compare hydroseeding in the spring, fall, and summer:
\n\n\n\nNow that you know the best time to hydroseed, it’s time to learn how the hydroseed process works. If you ever want to hydroseed your lawn DIY, here is a short step-by-step guide:
\n\n\n\nFor a more in-depth look at hydroseeding your own lawn, you can read our complete guide to DIY hydroseeding.
\n\n\n\nMaintaining your new hydroseed lawn is important in ensuring success. Here’s how to maintain your hydroseeded lawn:
\n\n\n\nThe cost of professional hydroseeding depends on many factors, such as the condition of your lawn and how big it is. However, homeowners can typically expect hydroseeding to cost an average of 8 to 20 cents per square foot. A 3,000 sq. ft. lawn would cost anywhere from $240 to $600 to be hydroseeded.
\n\n\n\nProfessionals will typically charge a discounted rate if you’re hydroseeding by the acre. Rates can also vary drastically depending on where you live in the US.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen watering your hydroseeded lawn, make sure not to run your sprinklers for more than 15 minutes. Otherwise, you might overwater your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWalking on your new hydroseeded lawn before it’s established can form bare spots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWait for at least 3 to 4 months before using weed control products on your hydroseed lawn. Make sure to get rid of weeds before starting your hydroseed project. In case you find any weeds, you can try hand-pulling them.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt’s generally not recommended to do so, but you can. It’s just not a good idea because the hydroseed slurry can kill your existing grass. Try overseeding instead if you want to fill out bare patches in your lawn.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding is a good option to consider if you want to grow a new lawn relatively quickly without breaking the bank. It’s more cost-effective than laying sod, more efficient than traditional seeding, and isn’t too difficult to DIY. But why risk hydroseeding your lawn yourself when you can hire a professional lawn care service instead?
Wikilawn can help you find a lawn care pro near you to help you with hydroseeding and your other lawn care needs, including regular maintenance.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n","title":"What is Hydroseeding?","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5544041450777202,"src":"/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/1789c/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg","srcSet":"/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/107df/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg 320w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/293e9/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg 500w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/f2cbb/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg 800w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/1789c/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg 960w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/c26c2/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/1dd6e/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/67b76/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp 320w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/8df11/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp 500w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/98a65/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp 800w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/1dd6e/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp 960w,\n/static/c13b0ccc5af8da1d6ec515c1f2800702/3cc96/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What is Hydroseeding? | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What’s a more cost-effective way to grow a new lawn without the hassle of hand-seeding? That would be hydroseeding. Find out more in this article."}}},{"node":{"id":"75e3c7b8-add3-5089-a595-32f9d21fd618","slug":"how-to-install-a-lawn-sprinkler-system","path":"/blog/how-to-install-a-lawn-sprinkler-system/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 10th, 2022","excerpt":"Learning how to install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system is nearly as easy as turning on the water. Home irrigation system kits now come with all the necessary components so you can install a multi-zone system in just two or three days. Expect to spend around $500 for each zone, depending on the features you […]
\n","content":"\nLearning how to install an in-ground lawn sprinkler system is nearly as easy as turning on the water. Home irrigation system kits now come with all the necessary components so you can install a multi-zone system in just two or three days.
\n\n\n\nExpect to spend around $500 for each zone, depending on the features you choose. Most yards will require 2 or 3 zones for complete coverage. A residential control system will cost between $175 and $200. So you can easily install a 2-zone system for about $1,500.
\n\n\n\nHere we’ll break down the 9-step process to help you install a lawn sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\nContents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"Prep](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_296-12530440930zpi.jpg\")
![\"Tech.](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_tech-sgt-mike-deangelo-a-facility-manager-from-the-129th-transportation-flight-63af96-1024.jpg\")
Most systems connect to an exterior water supply, much like connecting a garden hose to the valve at the side of the house. You may also be able to use a well or other water source. This can drastically cut down on the cost of running your irrigation system.
\n\n\n\nA programmable timer allows you to water your lawn regularly, applying the right amount of water at the right times. A watering schedule also keeps your lawn eco-friendly by conserving water, which helps save money.
\n\n\n\nYou can find the gallons per minute (GPM) average from your city, but for a more accurate measurement, you’ll want to do it yourself. Understanding the water pressure flowing through your system tells you how far each sprinkler head will reach and the amount of time you’ll need to run each zone.
\n\n\n\nAttach a pressure gauge to the outside spigot to measure the flow rate in pounds per square inch (PSI). For an accurate reading, all of the other faucets on your property should be turned off.
\n\n\n\nMost homes have a PSI between 40 and 80 PSI. Sprinkler system kits typically require between 30 and 50 PSI. Read the directions carefully to find the proper amount of water pressure for your system.
\n\n\n\nMany different in-ground lawn sprinkler systems are available, including smart systems that allow you to control everything from your phone via Wi-Fi. Research your options and choose the best fit for your yard, water pressure, climate, and lifestyle.
\n\n\n\nIf you have large areas to water, you may need to connect multiple zones. This isn’t any more complicated than just one zone. Consider an automatic sprinkler system that rotates through each zone regularly.
\n\n\n\nMultiple zones will help you care for areas that are shaded, get a lot of sun, are prone to puddling, or have recently been fertilized.
\n\n\n\nIn areas where it freezes in winter, you need to drain the system each autumn. This prevents freeze damage to the pipes, sprinklers, and valves. Winterizing can be a DIY job, but it might be best to hire a professional if this is your first in-ground sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\n1. What kind of piping should I use?
\n\n\n\nMost people use PVC pipes, but polyethylene is another option. Polyethylene pipes are flexible and well suited to colder climates with frequent freezes.
\n\n\n\n2. How do I know what size piping to use?
\n\n\n\nThe system’s piping must match the supply line. You can wrap a piece of string around the supply line to measure its size.
\n\n\n\n3. Do I need backflow prevention?
\n\n\n\nSome municipalities require backflow preventers, but it’s a good idea in all areas. Backflow prevention protects the main water supply from chemicals that may enter the system from your yard.
\n\n\n\n4. What do I do if a sprinkler head isn’t working?
\n\n\n\nFirst, check to see if the sprinkler head is clogged. If it’s free of debris, you might need to replace it. The good news is that it is pretty simple to replace a malfunctioning head.
\n\n\n\n5. Will a pop-up system work for my flower beds?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should consider adding a drip irrigation system around flower beds. This will provide a more consistent and gentle watering system than an in-ground sprinkler system.
\n\n\n\n
If installing a lawn sprinkler system is a bit over your head, we can help you find a landscaping professional.
Main photo credit: Brenda Stuart | Wikilawn
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\n","content":"\nAs the coronavirus pandemic progresses, a growing number of state governments are requiring people to stay at home and make only minimal trips to stores for necessities. Besides making sure their households have enough hand soap and sanitizer, people are also trying to lay in enough food, water, medicine, disinfectants, and other supplies to last for several weeks of self-isolation.
\n\n\n\nDuring uncertain times like these, it’s natural to wonder whether you could practice social distancing and simultaneously minimize your long-term dependency on the grocery store by growing food and natural remedies in your own backyard. The answer is yes — with plenty of planning, effort, and time (which, if you’re stuck at home, you’ll have more of than usual). Here are things to think about, plus tips for preparing, planting, and maintaining a garden that can help you survive an emergency.
\n\n\n\nYou don’t have to become a full-blown prepper or try to survive exclusively off the land. Think of it more like the victory gardens your grandparents or great-grandparents may have planted. You can grow some herbs and vegetables in pots on a balcony or convert a large portion of your yard to staple crops, or anything in between. Either way:
\n\n\n\nAnyone! Obviously, the space you have and the time you’re willing to spend will determine the scale. Few people can completely support themselves, especially right away — but anything you grow helps your budget and saves a trip to the store.
\n\n\n\nEspecially if you’re new to the gardening game, it can help to:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ajPU9FrhuAjKC-fQLjorDE1Vor0MHxPQqBa8Q9l0T-sG2jnvW9tG5b3pS30SEzuT-nwjcTJXJgAGF5p5JAmmpFgm--1oJFdPCXGymEU8A6Csz8DBImQLpd7cyF1LONqtRLpJ8uJZ\")
If you want good results, you can’t just start sticking plants in the ground. Gardening depends on a lot of factors, and you need to consider them first. (THEN you can start sticking plants in the ground!)
Think about:
\n\n\n\nThe country’s median garden size is about 96 square feet (8 feet by 12 feet). That’s very close to 100 square feet — the ideal size for a summer vegetable garden that can fill the needs of one person.
\n\n\n\nSo, how much food can a space like that yield? One gardener writing for Mother Earth News calculated her 100-square-foot plot’s annual yield at 77.5 pounds of tomatoes, 15.5 pounds of bell peppers, 14.3 pounds of lettuce, 2.5 pounds of basil, and 126 pounds of zucchini!
\n\n\n\nAlso pay attention to the amount of sun and shade your intended plot will get, so you can decide which plants should go where. Lots of gardening websites offer garden planners to help you visualize and design your plot.
\n\n\n\nA clean water supply is important, of course. Unless your area gets a lot of rainfall, you’ll probably be watering from your household water supply by hand, hose, or sprinkler. It’s easy to install a water filter to prevent chlorine, salts, and other chemicals from getting into your soil and your food — there are filters that screw right onto your garden hose!
\n\n\n\nYou’ll also need fertile soil that’s been tilled or loosened and is free of rocks and debris. If you’re converting a yard from turf, turning the soil for the first time will be one of the most time- and labor-intensive steps in the process. Prepare yourself now!
\n\n\n\nYou can learn things about your soil in the process, including its history of pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer use. You’ll also get to know the consistency of the soil texture — what proportions of sand, silt, clay, or loam it contains — plus how much rock you’ll need to remove.
\n\n\n\nA garden will take up as much time as you give it, but most sources seem to agree that once plants are in the ground and growing, you’ll devote at minimum 5-10 hours per week to planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc.
\n\n\n\nAlso, when starting a survival garden, you probably want the period from planting to harvest to take as little time as possible, so consider sowing some fast-growing plants in your first crop. (See 17 Fastest-Growing Backyard Crops, below, for suggestions.)
There are some basic tools every backyard gardener needs to begin with, including:
\n\n\n\nOnce your garden starts growing and you get a little deeper in, you also might need:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FCQrAn04mB_snbI5J9SjwmYuTLmEicgYhZF9N0T6y1cl_h2p4XyTEf-acUONsMvrIsACQPGYgYJ4s6K_if6UsVvKi3QNmBLrONRS3rdQp_N7JFdA-zW_2Mo9ThUqh4iTc4bWeAN2\")
When it comes to selecting crops for a survival garden, everybody has different needs and tastes. Here’s a basic example of the types of staple crops you can plant:
\n\n\n\nThese veggies have different growing seasons, which can allow you to start a few kinds of plants at a time and focus on establishing them before it’s time to get the next crop going. (Just make sure to plan your garden layout with enough room for everybody.) This also means there should be something new that’s ready to harvest throughout most of the year.
\n\n\n\nThere are plenty of different lenses to help you focus your plant choices. You can consider growing time; ease of cultivation; protein, calorie or vitamin content. Luckily, many plants show up on multiple lists and grow well in your area. If you like to eat them (and bonus: if your kids like to eat them), then give them a try in your victory garden!
\n\n\n\nRemember growing bean sprouts in school? There’s a reason kindergarten teachers everywhere choose them: The seeds sprout and turn in visible results in almost no time.
| Food | Average days from sowing to harvest |
| green onions | 20-30 days |
| radishes | 25 days |
| spinach | 30 days |
| arugula | 30 days |
| carrots | 30-50 days |
| lettuce | 30-45 days |
| summer squash/ zucchini | 35 days |
| bush beans | 60 days |
| bok choy | 45-60 days |
| cucumbers | 50 days |
| beets | greens: 30 days / roots: 50 days |
| okra | 50-55 days |
| kale | 50-65 days |
| snow peas | 60 days |
| broccoli | 60 days |
| turnips | greens: 40 days / roots: 60 days |
Start your first survival garden season with some of these fast-growing crops, and you could be harvesting dinner within a few months.
Some crops are just easier than others. First-timer? You might want to stick with the crops easiest to grow in your area. Got some dirt under your nails? Go for the more finicky varieties.
\n\n\n\n| Easier-to-grow crops | Harder-to-grow crops |
| cucumbers | arugula |
| garlic | bok choy |
| green beans | broccoli |
| kale | cauliflower |
| lettuce | eggplant |
| peas | mustard greens |
| potatoes | onions |
| radishes* | radishes* |
| summer squash/ zucchini | spinach |
*Wondering why radishes show up on both the easy-to-grow and hard-to-grow lists? Because it’s easy to get radishes sprouted and growing, but not always easy to keep this cool-weather plant from bolting (prematurely flowering and going to seed before producing food) in warm weather. The same is true for many on the hard-to-grow list.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/7Yq5PyMIaG19xvaGbAMWwzljZf_L_koSskCafJvn8meFWXnRMFxb0edNXNBihTTJW1xyEGBoMtLgMgnN88fiY6iGmKuroL_LpaSULhzy8WrKYPzC1Dz2pvOe9cD4-PU8MBa6s8Mn\")
If you’re trying to keep your family fed in a crisis situation, calories (boosting them, that is — not cutting them down!) may become more important than you ever thought possible. These are among the most calorie-dense crops you can plant.
| Food | Average calories |
| sunflower seeds | 700 kcals per cup (shelled) |
| avocado | 370 kcals per cup (puréed) |
| soybeans | 300 kcals per cup |
| potatoes | 260 kcals each (medium) |
| lima beans | 210 kcals per cup |
| corn | 130 kcals per ear |
| sweet potatoes | 130 kcals each (medium) |
| pinto beans | 80 kcals per cup |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Protein is also important for maintaining proper health. There are plenty of ways to get protein into your garden and onto your plate.
| Food | Average protein per cup |
| soybeans | 68 grams |
| pumpkin seeds | 36 grams |
| pinto beans | 28 grams |
| quinoa | 24 grams |
| buckwheat | 22 grams |
| peanuts | 16 grams |
| chickpeas | 14 grams |
| broccoli | 2.5 grams |
| Source: USDA Food Data Central |
Besides legumes and grains, many green veggies are high in protein — such as broccoli, which contains more protein per calorie than steak. (You’d just have to eat many more mouthfuls of greens to get the same number of calories as you’d get from the animal products.)
A smart way to reduce food waste and get more of the crops you already like to eat is to regrow food from cuttings. This also saves unnecessary trips to the store or garden center. If you’ve never done this before, now is a great time to start. Here are some foods you can regrow.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/foods-grow-from-cuttings-424x1024.png\")
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/y3g3ijCjNGPvHrh4BSQpVnskWjnV4j85j1X7lgbPoC-vgSwK_MwmBaOl4IP53eiGu8hBPZhcrGx_RW2KUFt1aGmOGdgsxLiV-GaYCIJbtpPFAPpQyyH8fM8kgdJ2rZlnDTlybKUp\")
Both in the soil and in your home, vegetables in your survival garden will be complemented by other plants. Medicinal herbs can replace store-bought supplements or pharmaceuticals in healing injury and relieving illnesses, and other plants can help you replace household items.
\n\n\n\nSelf-sufficiency is always a great feeling, but it’s of much greater importance during a crisis. If store-bought pharmaceuticals are unavailable, you might be able to harvest something from the garden to help relieve an injury or malady. These are some conditions that have been treated using medicinal herbs:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/medicinal-gardening-plants-515x1024.png\")
For centuries, people have made tea from the leaves of various plants to relieve certain ailments. Here are some plants that make herbal teas believed to offer health benefits:
\n\n\n\nBecause of their natural antiseptic and pain-relieving benefits, these plants can be made into topical applications — oils, ointments, washes, poultices, or salves — to relieve skin irritation, inflammation, or muscular pain, as well as heal cuts, scrapes, bruises, and burns.
\n\n\n\nSome medicinal plants look like other plants that can be toxic or even deadly, so make sure you pay attention. (And remember: This is by no means a comprehensive list!)
\n\n\n\nAlso, some plants have similar names. For example, don’t confuse black cohosh — used for easing menstrual cramps and hot flashes — with blue cohosh, which can cause miscarriage in pregnant women. The raw berries also can cause vomiting and diarrhea in children if ingested.
Hopefully, you won’t run out of toilet paper or any of the next-most-useful replacements like tissues, napkins, or paper towels. But if you get to the point of looking for rugged, old-school solutions, leaves are your best bet. Check your backyard. The following trees and plants are good candidates because of the size, softness, thickness, and durability of their leaves. As a bonus, they also generally don’t contain any skin-irritating chemicals.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/leaves-toilet-paper-530x1024.png\")
If you don’t already have access to any of these, it might not be a bad idea to plant a few — just in case. Mullein, mallow, lamb’s ear, and asters do well in gardens across the U.S. Corn lily and thimbleberry are mountainous and grow best at higher altitudes. (Remember: It’s important to make sure you know exactly what a plant is before you use it on any part of your body.)
Of course you’ve stocked plenty of rope among your supplies. But what happens if it gets lost, stolen, or somehow compromised? You make your own rope, of course — armed with know-how, plenty of time, immense patience, no small amount of labor, and any of these plants.
![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/plants-to-use-for-rope-792x1024.png\")
Some of these fibrous plants will work better than others in your garden. Milkweed complements mainstream garden life, encouraging butterflies that help with pollination. Conversely, because of their unfriendly properties, dogbane and stinging nettle require a more out-of-the-way spot.
The United States is immense, so there’s no single typical growing season or harvest period. Instead, the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture has designated “plant hardiness zones” to guide planting all across the country. The zones are determined by the lowest winter temperatures (historically averaged) as they occur across the geographic areas of the U.S.
![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/HQQYKeGK6GIU9sUn_w4EXbso5sQmYqCPfoOlFyo9Mrdbcdq9nkiAHy5FYKOjtyyqKW_7BIexOk_bETF1_Iz7Obdrki04UicfuEG07ykbCRvc2TgpT4-5lyMpf0C1Wxf8Nazx10r-\")
Hardiness zone maps are also accessible by state or by region. Using them to figure out the specific temperature range for your area can help you gauge which plants will grow best and last longest.
\n\n\n\nOnce you know your zone, you can begin to figure out a timetable that will work for gardening in your area. Several websites provide a planting and harvest calendar for each zone, as well as suggestions for vegetables and general planting advice.
\n\n\n\nOnce you’ve decided what to grow and planned where and when to grow it, it’s finally time for the how: Get your hands dirty and dig into the soil!
\n\n\n\nRaised beds
\n\n\n\nOne of the most common gardening methods, planting in raised beds involves turning the bed soil, then adding more soil and compost on top. Beds can be contained in boxes where the entire surface is raised, or soil can be formed into mounds or rows above the original surface. A raised-bed design can offer several advantages:
\n\n\n\nHills
\n\n\n\nYou’ve heard the expression “doesn’t amount to a hill of beans?” Yep, beans grow best in hills. Planting in hills (or mounds) works well for vining plants like beans, squash, cucumbers, and melons. Often they’re planted with a vertical frame for the vines to climb.
\n\n\n\nRows
\n\n\n\nTraditional gardens planted in rows can be especially useful for supporting large crops like corn, canning tomatoes, potatoes and other produce that takes up a lot of room.
\n\n\n\nWhen your food is coming from it, you want to make sure your soil is as clean, chemical-free, and nutritious as possible. If you or previous land occupants have used pesticides or herbicides in the bed soil, you’ll probably want to make raised beds and add organic soil and compost. After that, adding an annual layer of compost adds nutrients and continually improves the soil.
\n\n\n\nFertilizers From the Kitchen
\n\n\n\nYou’re also probably looking for a shorter timeline than it takes for a compost pile to “ripen” for use, so meanwhile, you can divert these classic compost ingredients directly into the soil as DIY fertilizers:
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/things-to-add-to-soil-compost.png\")
Vegetables and other plants vary in the forms they best grow from: seeds or seedlings. Here’s an overview of each type, plus some advice on getting them started:
\n\n\n\nTo grow some vegetables, you can just stick a seed in the ground, let it germinate, and cultivate it from there. Easier than cuttings, and cheaper than seedlings! These plants include:
\n\n\n\nThe basics of planting seeds, of course, are the much the same as for any type of planting:
\n\n\n\nCreative planting tip: Did you know you can sprout seeds in eggshells? Simply take several clean, empty shells, carefully poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each, then set into an egg carton. Fill each shell with some potting soil, sprinkle a few seeds of your choice, then lightly rake a little soil over them. Set in a sunny spot and keep moist with a mister until leaves sprout. Then, you can plant the entire thing into a pot, and the eggshell will fertilize the plant it helped sprout! This can also be done with hollowed-out citrus peels.
\n\n\n\nSome plants are notoriously hard to germinate from seeds and/or keep alive. Seedlings are more mature and stronger (as well as more pest-resistant) when they’re transplanted, so you’re less likely to lose plants at the beginning. Plants grown from seedlings also mature faster, getting you to harvest sooner.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/EvElFSghgX6CRJsBbzhdgW8IBwqB2VQdCWHX82pxMRbEMLUZ2xKkrbPyO2RRH-sP__hp1iw3HS_ZOS7aPx0QSCPsHKlOHY6dJsT5IZ8DMPUoLv0VOF574z4yYHiaZ6YAFFyAi6aU\")
Once they’re in the ground and doing their thing, your job is to keep watch over your plants and protect them from all the things that can cause them harm. Fortunately, there are several creative gardening hacks to help you tend your plants and help them grow. Here are just a few.
\n\n\n\nThese are the planting seasons for vegetables, some fruits, and herbs in different parts of the country.
\n\n\n\n| What and When to Plant in the U.S. | ||||
| Region | Spring (March-May) | Summer (June-Aug) | Fall (Sept-Nov) | Winter (Dec-Feb) |
Pacific Northwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | apples, artichokes, arugula, asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, blueberries, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, greens, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, onions, parsnips, peas, pears, pole beans, potatoes, pumpkins, raspberries, radishes, scallions, shallots, snap peas, snow peas, strawberries, spinach, sorrel | bush beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, eggplants, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, peppers, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, summer squash, tomatoes, turnips, winter squash, parsley, rhubarb | fava beans, garlic, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, chives | |
West Coast (USDA Hardiness Zones 4b-9a) | beans, beets, blackberries, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, green beans, kale, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, tomatoes, turnips, basil, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary | beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, corn, cucumbers, onions, peppers, radishes, squash, tomatoes | beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, peas, spinach, squash | |
South Central and Southwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3b-11a) | asparagus, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, cantaloupes, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, figs, garlic, cherry tomatoes, melons, okra, onions, peanuts, peas, peppers, potatoes, radishes, scallions, snap peas, spinach, tomatoes, watermelons, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley | beans, beets, cantaloupes, chard, collards, corn, cucumbers, gourds, kale, lettuce, melons, mustard greens, okra, peanuts, peas, tomatoes, tomatillos, turnips, beans, sweet peppers, hot peppers, watermelon, basil, cilantro, dill | arugula, beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, garlic, kale, leek, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsnips, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips, cilantro, dill, parsley | beets, bok choy, carrots, chard, collards, lettuce,snow peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley |
Midwest (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-7b) | apples, arugula, beans, beets, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, cantaloupe, cauliflower, carrots, chard, cherries, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, lima beans, parsnips, peaches, peas, pears, persimmons, potatoes, radishes, radicchio, scallions, spinach, squash (summer and winter), strawberries, turnips, watermelon, basil, chives, cilantro, fennel, parsley, sorrel, summer savory, witch hazel | arugula, beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, cucumber, edamame, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, okra, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, pumpkin, scallions, squash (summer and winter), turnips, watermelon, basil, cilantro, parsley, sorrel | arugula, broccoli, cabbage, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips | |
| Southeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 5b-11a) | broccoli, blackberries, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrots, chard, collards, corn, eggplant, figs, lettuce, okra, onions, peppers, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, strawberries, sweet potatoes, basil, cilantro, dill, lavender, oregano, thyme, witch hazel | beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, kale, lima beans, pole beans, tomatoes, watermelon, winter squash | chard, kale, onions, pumpkins, rosemary, turnips | |
| Northeast (USDA Hardiness Zones 3a-8a) | beets, broccoli, cantaloupe, carrots, corn, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, melons, sweet peppers, snap peas, squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, basil, chamomile, ginger, mint, parsley, witch hazel | beets, bok choy, broccoli, cantaloupe, cabbage, carrots, chard, corn, greens, cucumbers, lettuce, kale, kohlrabi, pole beans, snap beans, snap peas, snow peas, spinach, squash, summer squash, tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, arnica, basil, borage, chamomile, dill, fennel, marshmallow, oregano, parsley, purslane, skullcap, thyme | arugula, beets, broccoli, garlic, greens (mesclun, rapini, mache, frisee, etc.), kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, shallots, spinach, turnips,cilantro, chamomile, echinacea, holy basil, lemon balm, oregano, purslane, skullcap, sorrel, thyme | arugula, kale, lettuce, basil, cilantro, dill(start indoors in pots) |
Aerating – Loosening soil or compost to allow air to circulate
\n\n\n\nAnnuals – Varieties that complete their life cycle in one year or less, requiring sowing every year. Annual flower varieties often bloom profusely and over a long period of time.
\n\n\n\nBiennials – Varieties, both flowers and vegetables, that complete their life cycle in two years, usually just showing only leaf growth the first year, and flowers the next
\n\n\n\nCompanion planting – Planting different plants together that benefit one another. For example, sowing a plant that attracts pollinators next to a plant that requires pollination; corn, squash, and beans are common companions.
\n\n\n\nCutting – Developing a new plant by cutting a piece of leaf, stem, root, or bud from a parent plant, then inserting it into a growing medium (water or soil) to form roots
\n\n\n\nComposting – Using decomposed plant material to replenish soil nutrients while reducing landfill waste
\n\n\n\nFertilizing – Adding organic or synthetic material to soil or plant to improve the nutrient value and help plants grow stronger
\n\n\n\nGermination – The moment when a seed begins to grow
\n\n\n\nHydroponics – Growing plants in water instead of soil
\n\n\n\nPlanting/ sowing – Putting seeds in soil and allowing them to germinate and grow
\n\n\n\nPerennials – Varieties that grow and flower for two or more years. These can be evergreen or may die back to the ground but will grow again the following season.
\n\n\n\nPollination – The fertilization of a flower by wind, insect, birds, etc., resulting in a seed, sometimes surrounded by an edible fruit
\n\n\n\nSeedling – Tiny plant developing from a germinated seed, ready for planting
\n\n\n\nThinning – Reducing the number of seedlings so remaining plants are spaced properly to grow
\n\n\n\nTransplanting – Transferring a plant to a different growing space or medium
\n\n\n\nUSDA hardiness zones – Zones designated for planting as determined by the historical, average, lowest winter temperature in specified geographic areas of the U.S.
\n\n\n\nVariety – A species that has naturally formed a unique characteristic distinguishing it from similar plants (For example, kale and kohlrabi each adapted unique characteristics that differ from cabbage, the original species from which they came.)
\n\n\n\n\n","title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5086792452830189,"src":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg","srcSet":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/107df/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/293e9/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/f2cbb/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1789c/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/19c60/social-distancing-backyard.jpg 1999w","srcWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/67b76/social-distancing-backyard.webp 320w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/8df11/social-distancing-backyard.webp 500w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/98a65/social-distancing-backyard.webp 800w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/1dd6e/social-distancing-backyard.webp 960w,\n/static/4697d7c41b2492787ca191a3565dd6d1/acfdf/social-distancing-backyard.webp 1999w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Social Distancing in Your Backyard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"4ffe5de5-d22a-50e4-9c09-43d605c75e25","slug":"6-organizing-tips-to-tidy-up-your-yard","path":"/blog/landscaping/6-organizing-tips-to-tidy-up-your-yard/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"","name":"Wikilawn","id":"706a455e-0b9c-56ea-aeed-4f411c6c1973","path":"/author/wikilawn/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fd0301960c52ded452e0b5fc145cb264?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"June 5th, 2019","excerpt":"What is a backyard if not an extension of one’s soul? Okay, that may be a bit dramatic, but what’s the point of having that yard if you don’t maintain it well? Your lawn is a part of your property strangers can often look into without having to be welcomed into your home, so keeping […]
\n","content":"\nWhat is a backyard if not an extension of one’s soul? Okay, that may be a bit dramatic, but what’s the point of having that yard if you don’t maintain it well? Your lawn is a part of your property strangers can often look into without having to be welcomed into your home, so keeping it organized is crucial to maintaining the right appearances in your neighborhood. It is one of many ways to improve your all-important curb appeal. Though there is a lot of open space in the typical yard, keeping the rest well organized does take some effort and wise thinking. Try these tips to keep your backyard items well maintained and stored correctly.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/lawnmowers-yelloe.jpg\")
It’s possible to store most lawn care products and other backyard items without much maintenance. The main exception would be lawnmowers or other motorized lawn equipment. Drain any fuel or other fluids put inside these tools before they are stored long-term. In the winter, make sure to empty the fuel tank of the mower before putting it away in the garage or shed. If the items are stored outdoors, try to keep them above ground to prevent snow and water from getting to them.
\n\n\n\nRead more: Here Are the Best Push Lawn Mowers of 2019
\n\n\n\nOutdoor grills can get dirty during a busy summer, so cleaning a grill before putting it in storage is always wise. A grill brush can be a big help with the job. Weber Grills has a helpful guide on their site that helps walk through the steps owners of each kind of grill should take before storing their grills. Whatever grill you have, it can be stored indoors or outdoors during the winter, but a propane tank should always be stored outside. If you choose to store your grill outdoors, a grill cover can help protect its exterior from the elements.
\n\n\n\nMost items that kids love to play with at the pool are pretty low maintenance, but it always helps to break down these pool toys and accessories to their smallest components. That means disassembling the pool basketball hoop, deflating the floating pool toys, and folding all the towels.
\n\n\n\nThere’s always an item or two that can be removed to create extra space in any outdoor space. Many people don’t refresh their lawn decorations or leave some out far too long. Others keep broken or worn down lawn equipment, flower pots or watering instruments around as it can be difficult to throw them out.
\n\n\n\nThe shed or garage close to your outdoor space can often become the place where items to be sold, donated, or thrown out are put. It generally feels easier to move these items temporarily than it is actually to get rid of them. Determine a workflow to assess which of these seeming superfluous items are worth keeping, and figure out what to do with the rest (selling, donating, dumping) that makes the most sense.
\n\n\n\nDecluttering your backyard makes the outdoor living space more inviting and more functional for your friends and family… or neighbors. When you have too much stuff just lying around and taking up space in your yard, the point this summer should be to declutter it. The golden rule is the less you have, the less you need to store. Just like when you’re looking at renting a storage space or preparing for a long distance move, throwing away or donating items means fewer things for you to worry about.
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/4757379661_316dfa218f_z.jpg\")
Need more space to store things in and around your yard? There are a few convenient yard storage solutions. Add storage racks or buy shelves to go alongside the walls of the garage, and you’ll make more use out of the space right next to your yard. In the yard, a storage shed or deck box can make an unassuming place to put some items that belong in the yard but aren’t always being used. The deck box or shed can blend into a yard much like an ottomans blend into a living room. A wine rack as a holder for clean – rolled-up towels and a water-proof coat rack is a great solution for hanging wet towels to dry.
\n\n\n\nThe elements are always a concern in the yard, so patio and other outdoor furniture should have covers that can be put on them upon notice of inclement weather. Clearing debris from the lawn can help prevent damage in cases of inclement weather too; don’t let a strong breeze cause one of your items to be dented. Cleaning your metal yard equipment like lawnmowers, grills, and gardening tools will help keep them from rusting and help them maintain their top effectiveness. Having a landscape layout that’s fit for your home is often about yard maintenance. But the reward of a photogenic and welcoming exterior on your property is worth it.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: Flickr // Earthworm
\n","title":"Here Are 6 Organizing Tips to Tidy Up Your Yard","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1789c/backyard-clutter.jpg","srcSet":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/107df/backyard-clutter.jpg 320w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/293e9/backyard-clutter.jpg 500w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/f2cbb/backyard-clutter.jpg 800w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1789c/backyard-clutter.jpg 960w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/a2a79/backyard-clutter.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1dd6e/backyard-clutter.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/67b76/backyard-clutter.webp 320w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/8df11/backyard-clutter.webp 500w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/98a65/backyard-clutter.webp 800w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/1dd6e/backyard-clutter.webp 960w,\n/static/2dd8b8f1b972dfeb5e7d60568d96381f/7aa54/backyard-clutter.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"Here Are 6 Organizing Tips to Tidy Up Your Yard | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"dc9d69b9-4c83-5b51-a60d-e92c73f52fc7","slug":"when-to-overseed-a-lawn","path":"/blog/when-to-overseed-a-lawn/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Alison is a Midwesterner through and through, and loves to spend her time baking and reading. Always at home in the dirt, as a kid, Alison raised a vegetable garden with her dad, and flower gardens with her mom.","name":"Alison Hoover","id":"2d4efd75-80f4-58b0-b715-bcefffb32f2f","path":"/author/alison-hoover/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/54d52d00b8587655742aec8164f06427?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Overseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type. Experts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to […]
\n","content":"\nOverseeding is most effective when your lawn is growing most actively. Deciding when to overseed your lawn depends on whether your existing grass is a warm or cool-season type.
\n\n\n\nExperts recommend overseeding most lawns in the late summer or early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost. The rules change for when to overseed a lawn in southern areas where grass grows more actively in the spring.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll cover:
\n\n\n\nPopular in the northern states, cool-season grasses grow most actively in spring and fall. These grasses should be overseeded in late summer or early fall. This way the seeds will have time to germinate before your lawn comes out of dormancy in the spring. Most weeds have stopped growing by fall, so your new grass seed will have less competition.
\n\n\n\nIdeal conditions for growing cool-season grasses are when the soil is between 50 and 65 degrees. You can use a soil thermometer to check this out.
\n\n\n\nThere are many varieties of cool-season grasses, but the most common ones include:
\n\n\n\nAnother thing to consider when overseeding is when you expect the first frost. It’s important to overseed at least 45 days before the ground freezes so the new seeds have time to take root. Any closer to the first frost than that, and the grass seeds may die.
\n\n\n\nWarm-season grasses are most active in late spring and early summer and best for lawns in the southern United States. It’s best to overseed with warm-season grass seeds in the late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees. These types of grasses prefer prolonged temperatures around 75 degrees and lie dormant during winter.
\n\n\n\nThe most popular kinds of warm-season grasses are drought-tolerant. They include:
\n\n\n\nYou may want to overseed your warm-season grass with a cool-season variety such as ryegrass. This will help your lawn stay green longer into the winter season. If this is your goal, you need to overseed in the fall, ideally when the soil temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees.
\n\n\n\nAnnual ryegrass will provide winter color in the far South, while perennial ryegrass is better suited to lawns in the middle of the country. Perennial varieties will lie dormant through the summer and return next fall. The extreme temperatures in the South are not hospitable to perennial ryegrass, so you’ll want to overseed with annual ryegrass each autumn.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll want to consider blending grass types in states near the Mason-Dixon line. Summers tend to be too warm for cool-season grasses, but winters are too cold for warm ones.
\n\n\n\nHome supply stores typically sell grass seed mixes, especially for the transition zone. You’ll find overseeding with this mixture is a great way to keep your lawn green and healthy year-round.
\n\n\n\nTransition zone grasses should be overseeded in the first few weeks of spring when the existing lawn first turns green.You want to overseed when your lawn is at its most active, but you also want to be sure you have enough time to complete the process.
\n\n\n\nMost lawns will require overseeding every couple of years, but you may want to make it an annual chore if your lawn suffers from:
\n\n\n\nYou’ll find valuable information on the seed packaging specific to each type of grass. The labels will indicate how much seed to apply per square foot, as well as other tips for attaining a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\n1. How much grass seed should I use when overseeding?
\n\n\n\nApply 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet on bare soil. Using too little will leave bare spots and patches. Too much seed will force the grass to compete for water, light, and other nutrients. Read the directions on the seed package.
\n\n\n\n2. Should I mow the lawn before overseeding?
\n\n\n\nYes. Before overseeding, cut your grass shorter than usual and bag the clippings. It’s important to loosen the top layer of solid and remove any dead grass or thatch so the grass seed can easily take root and germinate.
\n\n\n\n3. Should I use a weed treatment while overseeding?
\n\n\n\nThis is a big no-no. Pre-emergents herbicides work by preventing germinating seeds from establishing roots. These products don’t know the difference between weed seeds and grass seeds. You also want to hold off on post-emergent weed treatments since they can kill young grass seed.
\n\n\n\n4. How long after overseeding will I see grass start to grow?
\n\n\n\nIt takes two to three weeks for germination to begin. With proper watering, you should see the grass sprout within four weeks. It will take about eight weeks to see a fully established lawn.
\n\n\n\n5. How soon and how often should I water the lawn after overseeding?
\n\n\n\nWater the overseeded area lightly right away, for about half an hour, to force the seed into the soil. A light spray is best so as not to wash away the grass seed. You’ll want to water two or three times a day for the first week, and then once a day for the next three weeks.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding is easy enough to do as a DIY project. But you might not want to spend your time checking soil temperatures, dethatching, and aerating. We can help you find a lawn care professional near you who will overseed your lawn and help it grow.
Main Photo Credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"When to Overseed a Lawn","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.3333333333333333,"src":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1789c/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/107df/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/293e9/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/f2cbb/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1789c/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/c26c2/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1dd6e/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/67b76/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/8df11/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/98a65/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/1dd6e/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/14a00db8eada2d05af2a1c088742cc8e/3cc96/rsz_landscape-grass-structure-lawn-sign-green-907017-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"When to Overseed a Lawn | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Description: Different grass types grow at different rates. We’ll look at when you should overseed your lawn with each grass type."}}},{"node":{"id":"9d989768-a2c1-5802-8281-1e1758592300","slug":"what-to-expect-when-working-with-a-landscape-architect-design-professional","path":"/blog/landscaping/what-to-expect-when-working-with-a-landscape-architect-design-professional/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"5bb57152-2e9b-5822-a133-bc84c122adab","name":"Landscaping","count":42,"path":"/category/blog/landscaping/"}],"date":"August 27th, 2019","excerpt":"If you have ever tried tackling your own landscape design you might have been overwhelmed by all the choices that need to be made. From plant selection to boulder placement; scheduling deliveries of bulk materials and of course the many hours required to actually install all of your beautiful new additions. With all the moving […]
\n","content":"\nIf you have ever tried tackling your own landscape design you might have been overwhelmed by all the choices that need to be made. From plant selection to boulder placement; scheduling deliveries of bulk materials and of course the many hours required to actually install all of your beautiful new additions. With all the moving pieces that come with home DIY projects, it can be easy to forget some pieces to the puzzle that will ultimately give you the most complete package.
\n\n\n\n\tOne simple solution to this problem is to enlist the services of a landscape design professional, either a licensed landscape architect or a landscape designer depending on the type of design work you are looking to include at your property. You might be thinking that a simple backyard makeover is too small for a project to need professional design advice. However, the long term benefits that come with the wide skill set of a professional designer far outweigh the seasons of replanting gardens and pulling up patios that just did not quite work.
\n\n\n\nIf you’ve made it this far, congratulations, you have made the smart choice to hire a professional to come alongside and guide you in the planning and design process. Maybe you have had some experience working with architects or interior designers and know what to expect or maybe this is your first time working with anyone in the design professions. The following article will give you a good idea of what to expect so you can best prepare for your first design meeting!
\n\n\n\n![\"\"/](\"https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/zHTXvYE5usmuYEYuXgAJ8rjbV9XvasPRmudLDs6uSVJO4WAxsoD-P86hwh7nJmKsqYCysMJpNZNQkQNxqmNbnGXZ-cO5yV38VObA0uGe59x0DhZpQY5VMTWneG2Fod5_P5gARDFKy4MO6J74ew\")
Landscape architects, and to some extent landscape designers, have years of formal training in subjects ranging from design theory, horticulture, art history, and psychology to name a few. Because of this extensive training, working with a landscape design professional will help kick-start your idea generation. The ability to be abundant with ideas and to spin one idea into a new and improved theory using past experience and industry expertise is a unique talent of design professionals.
\n\n\n\nEvery parcel or lot of land is unique in many ways, not just different shapes, sizes, and geographical locations, but also being part of a larger ecosystem, having challenging topographic qualities or just numerous utility and municipal setbacks that all require consideration. A professional landscape architect will have the skill to understand the macrocosm and microcosms that will dictate the broad-brush strokes of design. They will also have the refined talent to read the site-specific details, which define the unique elements of a single area of focus.
\n\n\n\nOnce there is a clear analysis of the project site, it is possible to come up with conceptual design ideas to contemplate. Every site has multiple solutions, but when the background research has been done thoroughly, a professional landscape designer will be able to narrow down the options to a concept that answers the needs, wants and wishes of the landowner while addressing the ecosystem characteristics presented in the existing landscape.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAs a landscape architect, I know that when I first meet with a client more than likely they have been giving a great deal of consideration to how they want their property to be designed. Time and experience have taught me, however, that just because a home or property owner has an idea about what they want the final design outcomes to be, doesn’t mean that idea is actually buildable or sustainable. We can dream up some pretty wild stuff after all! By working with a seasoned professional, you can be assured that what you develop together will have the ability to not only be built but also to be sustained creating a longterm successful space.
\n\n\n\nUnderstanding what things cost is very important. We are all quite familiar with how much any development project cost. The design processes require unhampered imagination and creativity in the beginning, but once the direction and aesthetic are defined it is necessary to bring the project into the reality of money. A professional landscape designer will be able to reasonably provide a project budget range or ballpark budget through experience or be able to guide you through the pricing/bidding process so that you can determine whether to build the project all at once or to phase it in over a few years.
\n\n\n\nIt is greatly important to draw the momentum you and your designer created from the design process into the construction phase. Some designers work with in house contracting operations – known as Design/Build while other designers work solo and have developed strong relationships with professional landscape contractors that they are confident in working with or recommending. These relationships are very useful to anyone planning to hire installers for the construction phase.
\n\n\n\nOne of the real benefits of working with a professional landscape designer in the design development process is in having this person stick with you through the construction phase. Every project will have the potential to be improved upon as it is being built. Additionally, almost every project will have some “unknown” pop up during construction and it will be important to have someone with your best interest in mind on-site to make informed decisions. Having your designer close at hand, or as your project manager, will ensure that you capitalize on opportunity and minimize any unforeseen pitfalls.
\n\n\n\nTop Photo: carexdesigngroup.com
\n","title":"What to Expect When Working with a Landscape Architect/Design Professional","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.7777777777777777,"src":"/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/1789c/landscape-architect.jpg","srcSet":"/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/107df/landscape-architect.jpg 320w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/293e9/landscape-architect.jpg 500w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/f2cbb/landscape-architect.jpg 800w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/1789c/landscape-architect.jpg 960w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/a2a79/landscape-architect.jpg 1024w","srcWebp":"/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/1dd6e/landscape-architect.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/67b76/landscape-architect.webp 320w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/8df11/landscape-architect.webp 500w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/98a65/landscape-architect.webp 800w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/1dd6e/landscape-architect.webp 960w,\n/static/ad659476662edc36fc81eede83036b3e/7aa54/landscape-architect.webp 1024w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What to Expect When Working with a Landscape Architect/Design Professional | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""}}},{"node":{"id":"c36cf902-2049-5bdf-8c75-e7da6e71504b","slug":"how-to-install-artificial-grass","path":"/blog/how-to-install-artificial-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Carmen Dexter is a freelance journalist and teacher who enjoys growing her own organic food and recycling as much as possible.","name":"Carmen Dexter","id":"f23ec685-a615-5004-a3fd-c0bfe6b2c9ec","path":"/author/carmen-dexter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/e37085a8a22d319f3383613d59d54c5f?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 2nd, 2022","excerpt":"Too much shade is one reason some homeowners turn to artificial turf to achieve a distinctive green lawn. You can save a lot of money if you know how to install artificial grass yourself. In this article, we’ll make it easy to DIY your new lawn by giving you the steps to install artificial grass, […]
\n","content":"\nToo much shade is one reason some homeowners turn to artificial turf to achieve a distinctive green lawn. You can save a lot of money if you know how to install artificial grass yourself.
\n\n\n\nIn this article, we’ll make it easy to DIY your new lawn by giving you the steps to install artificial grass, from base preparation, to installing to the finishing touches. We’ll also cover the numerous benefits.
\n\n\n\n5 Steps to install artificial grass:
\n\n\n\n1. How to prepare the area for artificial grass
2. Measure and lay out the artificial turf
3. Artificial grass installation
4. Secure edges and finish
5. Infill
6. Benefits of artificial grass
7. FAQ
Once you’ve decided to make artificial grass part of your landscape, decide exactly where it’s going. This type of synthetic turf requires a level and smooth surface. If your traditional lawn slopes, you can still install artificial grass, but the slope must be smooth. Find the right spot and begin the 5-step process of prepping the ground.
\n\n\n\n![\"Dig](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_8428609771_a5147870f4_c.jpg\")
You can’t throw a blanket of artificial turf over your lawn and call it a day. You must remove the natural lawn by digging about 4 inches into the soil. Renting a sod cutter will make this less of a hassle than using a shovel. If the ground is wet, wait for it to dry before you start.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t create an appropriate, level base before you lay artificial grass, holes may form, causing the grass to become uneven and pull away from the edges.
\n\n\n\n![\"Install](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_the-wonder-edge-2247.jpg\")
There’s one school of thought that synthetic grass doesn’t need a border, but if you want a natural lawn look that lasts, it’s best to install one. The vast majority of professional artificial grass installers will tell you it’s a necessity and has numerous benefits.
\n\n\n\n![\"lawn](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1grass-lawn-backyard-garden-channel-yard-979370-pxherecom.jpg\")
Properly installed artificial grass drains quite well, even better than real grass. The base actually acts as a drainage system. When that’s not enough, excess water may lead to lumpy grass, moss and algae, bacteria buildup, and expensive repairs or replacement.
\n\n\n\nTurf for sports fields, play areas, and heavy foot traffic comes with tiny drainage holes in the backing. This lets water pass through the grass, into the absorbent materials (aggregate) underneath. However, living in a wet climate may create the need for a bit more help, as does having soil that doesn’t drain well, like clay.
\n\n\n\nInstalling a drain or drainage grates at the lowest edge of the artificial grass is one way to give runoff somewhere to go. You can also dig a channel or French drain or install piped land drain.
\n\n\n\nThe last thing you want are weeds poking through. Put down a weed barrier. Sometimes called landscape fabric, it’s material with a mesh-like texture that’s thick enough to stop weeds from growing but porous enough to allow for runoff.
\n\n\n\nRoll the barrier out over the entire area and let the edges overlap. Keep it in place by putting in landscaping staples every 4 feet or so.
\n\n\n\nThis can be sand, gravel, or crushed stone and is a must under your synthetic grass. Choosing the wrong aggregate may cause wrinkling or buckling in your artificial lawn and prevent proper runoff.
\n\n\n\nThe best ground cover is called crushed miscellaneous base, or CMB, made of recycled concrete or asphalt with a sand-gravel mix of different sized pieces. Decomposed granite also makes an excellent base for installing artificial grass and handles runoff slightly better than CMB.
\n\n\n\nSpread the aggregate over the weed barrier, covering the entire surface, 3-4 inches deep. Dampen the area with water and start compacting the rock. Then use a vibratory plate compactor (you can rent one from a home improvement store) until the surface is smooth.
\n\n\n\nNow you’re ready to install the artificial grass. Let’s talk a bit about the type of grass you’ve chosen.
\n\n\n\nAn artificial lawn should look like natural turf; realistic with a soft texture that feels good. Dense blades of synthetic grass create a lush, natural lawn look that holds up under heavy foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nYour new synthetic turf is down and it’s time to make sure it stays put. Use 5 inch lawn spikes or non-galvanized turf nails. These are not coated with zinc, as a little rust actually helps the nail expand, and hold down the carpet. Hammer the nail firmly but not too hard to avoid creating dips in the turf.
\n\n\n\nFor the most natural look:
\n\n\n\nPlace the nails every 6-8 inches around the perimeter of the artificial lawn. Then, hammer a nail in the inside area of fake grass every 2 feet or so.
\n\n\n\nThe final step in laying artificial grass is adding infill. This is any type of material that goes between the blades of fake grass. Some sports teams, including several in the NFL, play on synthetic turf where ground up rubber is typically used as infill, but silica sand is considered the gold standard for homeowners.
\n\n\n\nSo how much infill do you need for your artificial lawn? The recommendation is 2 lbs. per square foot. That’s usually enough for a residential yard with average use.
\n\n\n\nFor best results follow these steps:
\n\n\n\nBe sure to use enough infill but not too much. You don’t want to see it sitting on top of your artificial lawn. Use a broom to remove any excess or spray with a garden hose. The goal is to make the infill as invisible as possible, even up close. Wait at least one night before using your new green lawn.
\n\n\n\nYour artificial lawn is practically maintenance-free. You don’t have to worry about mowing, fertilizer, weed killers, lawn diseases, common insects, or lawn munching rodents. It’s why is one of the best grass alternatives to consider. You can get rid of the sprinklers and say goodbye to high water bills.
\n\n\n\nYour new turf area is also pet-friendly. Many animal shelters use SYNLawn for their dog run areas because the turf is easy to hose off after the animals do their business.
\n\n\n\nLike the idea of a labor-free lawn, but don’t want to face the labor-intensive task of artificial grass installation? We can help you find a landscaping professional near you.
\n\n\n\nYou’ll soon have more time for you and your family to enjoy the new landscape design with some yard games (skip those that use sharp objects!). Then, say goodbye to the lawnmower and hello to the look of a traditional lawn without the upkeep.
\n\n\n\n1. What kind of maintenance does artificial grass require?
\n\n\n\nYou’ll need to use a blower regularly. A leaf blower does the trick to keep leaves, sticks and branches, and other debris off your artificial turf. And hose it down 2-3 times a month to get rid of smaller dust and dirt.
\n\n\n\nUse a stiff bristle broom and brush your synthetic lawn once a month. This keeps the blades standing upright and improves the appearance.
\n\n\n\n2. How much does an artificial lawn cost?
\n\n\n\nThe cost varies depending on the brand you choose to install and whether you DIY or hire professional installers. The average price is $12.33 a square foot with a 500-square-foot lawn costing between $3,000 and $7,300.
\n\n\n\n3. How long will my artificial lawn last?
\n\n\n\nThe lifespan of an artificial lawn is anywhere between 10 to 20 years, depending on how well you take care of it and the brand you choose. Some borders, especially timber, will have to be replaced every 10 years or sooner.
\n\n\n\nDon’t have the time or energy to install an artificial lawn? We can find a landscaping pro near you to install it for you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Wendy Aros-Routman | Unsplash
\n","title":"How to Install Artificial Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/1789c/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/107df/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/293e9/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/f2cbb/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/1789c/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/c26c2/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/1dd6e/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/67b76/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp 320w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/8df11/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp 500w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/98a65/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp 800w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/1dd6e/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp 960w,\n/static/0d5e99bf5b65f8f2fc32257cea970207/3cc96/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"How to Install Artificial Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Learn how to install artificial grass in about the time it takes you to mow, weed, and fertilize your lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"f725b102-82bb-57be-a1bc-8bf8c58376b0","slug":"best-grass-types-houston","path":"/lawn-care/tx/houston/best-grass-types-houston/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Emaley Baxter is an expert landscaper who loves writing in her free time. She enjoys research and exploring the great outdoors.","name":"Emaley Baxter","id":"c006aa66-4cfc-59dc-b3ce-5c07b0f83ff0","path":"/author/emaleybaxter/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/889dbc1c9ea88d564723019ac6c9b47b?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"656604f4-56e7-55ed-8540-cc48be40652a","name":"Houston","count":7,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/houston/"},{"id":"0f9826dc-fc31-550e-9967-1b3bf51f2bdb","name":"Texas","count":72,"path":"/category/lawn-care/tx/"}],"date":"July 29th, 2022","excerpt":"Want a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston: Bermudagrass Seashore Paspalum St. Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass 1. Bermudagrass Popular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has […]
\n","content":"\nWant a lush, green lawn that will last most of the year? The key is selecting the grass type that will grow best in our humid, subtropical climate. Here’s a list of the four best grass types for Houston:
\n\n\n\nPopular for its sun-loving, salt-tolerant makeup, Bermudagrass has a coarse to a medium-fine texture. Its wide leaf ranges in color from light green to dark green, depending on the cultivar (or type).
\n\n\n\nClassification: Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons (above-ground stems) and rhizomes (below-ground stems).
Shade tolerance: Bermudagrass prefers full sun at all times.
Drought tolerance: High. Regular rainfall should be enough to water it. This type will go dormant during extended dry periods.
Foot traffic tolerance: Its sturdiness withstands high levels of foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: High. Bermudagrass requires monthly fertilization during the summer. Water as needed to the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Thatch buildup is a threat.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 1 to 2 inches once or twice a week to keep up with its incessant growth rate.
Also resilient in saltwater environments is seashore paspalum. Great for waterfront properties, this type is low-growing and has pointy, medium-coarse blades and a blue-green hue.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Prefers full sun, but can withstand shade better than Bermudagrass.
Drought tolerance: Low. Seashore paspalum prefers very moist growing environments. Due to its high saline tolerance, you can use saltwater in irrigation.
Foot traffic tolerance: High. Seashore paspalum’s dense turf stands up well to heavy foot traffic.
Maintenance needs: Requires little fertilization throughout the growing season. Over-fertilizing can lead to scalping, which exposes the grass’s roots, opening it up to disease, stress, and stunted growth.
Recommended mowing height: For a well-manicured, dense lawn, mow to a height of 1 inch.
With its dark green color and curved, wide leaf, St. Augustinegrass is another favorite among Houstonians. This salt-resistant grass is one of the most selected options for lawns in the Houston area.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons.
Shade tolerance: Unlike most other warm-season types, St. Augustinegrass is able to thrive in shade.
Drought tolerance: Some degree of drought tolerance, but will begin to show stress during long periods of dryness.
Foot traffic tolerance: Light. Regular lawn foot traffic is no problem.
Maintenance needs: Fertilize every eight to 10 weeks and recycle grass clippings to help provide nutrients to this type of lawn. If rainfall isn’t enough, water to a soil depth of 6 inches when the grass is showing signs of dullness and stress. Over-watering and over-fertilizing can lead to thatch problems.
Recommended mowing height: Mow to a height of 2.5 inches.
Zoysiagrass is a popular choice because of its low-maintenance nature. There are many varieties, but Zoysia japonica is one of the best grass types for Houston Lawns. It has a high salt tolerance, pointy leaf blades, and a light- to medium-green color. It turns brown in early winter, going dormant soon after the first frost in November.
\n\n\n\nClassification: Warm-season grass.
Spreads by: Stolons and rhizomes.
Shade tolerance: Moderate shade won’t bother this turf, but it does grow best in full sun and temperatures of 80 degrees or hotter.
Drought tolerance: Zoysia can withstand periods of drought, but as a dry period lingers, it will go dormant and turn brown. Once watered, it will revert to its green color once again.
Foot traffic tolerance: Zoysiagrass grows well in high-traffic areas.
Maintenance needs: Low. Fertilize with about two pounds of nitrogen a year, and water about 1 inch a week during the growing season.
Recommended mowing height: Keep mower blades sharpened to tackle these stiff leaves, and cut to a height of 1 to 2 inches weekly.
1. When is the best time to plant grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nEarly March to late May, when the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees. This is the best time for warm-season grasses to germinate and become established in time for the first frost.
\n\n\n\n2. Can I plant a cool-season grass in Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, but you should wait until September when the ground is a bit cooler (about 50 degrees.) Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue will give you a greener lawn in the winter, but will not do well in the heat and humidity of the summer.
\n\n\n\n3. Is there such a thing as a no mow grass for Houston?
\n\n\n\nYes, buffalograss is one of the easiest grasses to care for. It’s one of the best grass types for Houston since It only needs occasional mowing and is extremely drought-tolerant.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have the time or energy to replant or reseed your lawn, we’ll find a local lawn care pro to get the job done for you.
\n","title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg","srcSet":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/107df/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/293e9/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/f2cbb/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1789c/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1ff5b/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.jpg 1290w","srcWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/67b76/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 320w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/8df11/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 500w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/98a65/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 800w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/1dd6e/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 960w,\n/static/54e8af60c1e796e0b283f6da408afff4/bdec4/houston-house-1290-pxfuel.webp 1290w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"4 Best Grass Types for Houston Lawns | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Want a gorgeous lawn that will stay lush and green most of the year. We list the four best grass types for your Houston lawn."}}},{"node":{"id":"bfc212b6-0318-5756-901f-7ff21b4f4b7d","slug":"what-is-no-mow-grass","path":"/blog/what-is-no-mow-grass/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"Janae Soules is a freelance writer with a newly discovered love of gardening with her kids. She enjoys spending time in nature hiking, biking, or playing sports.","name":"Janae Soules","id":"0def06f9-a4f4-58d5-891d-d423dde342f4","path":"/author/janae-souleslawnstarter-com/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/aab1931e793481d75c080c7271be7652?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"}],"date":"August 1st, 2022","excerpt":"You’re frustrated with fighting the lawn mower and sweating bullets in the hot sun. Maybe it’s time to plant a no-mow grass. Several no-mow grasses and low-maintenance grass types only need mowing once or twice a year. Some no-mow grasses are also drought-resistant, so you won’t have to water them either. We’ll start by touting […]
\n","content":"\nYou’re frustrated with fighting the lawn mower and sweating bullets in the hot sun. Maybe it’s time to plant a no-mow grass.
\n\n\n\nSeveral no-mow grasses and low-maintenance grass types only need mowing once or twice a year. Some no-mow grasses are also drought-resistant, so you won’t have to water them either. We’ll start by touting the benefits of a no-mow lawn, then walk you through the best no-mow grass alternatives for your lawn.
\n\n\n\nTable of contents:
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe term “no-mow grass” may actually be a misnomer. A low-maintenance lawn can also include low-mow grass varieties.
\n\n\n\nSometimes a grass blend will green up your yard without forcing you to spend your late spring and summer months pushing around a lawn mower. Some have the added bonus of needing little watering.
\n\n\n\nWhich of these grass types you choose will depend on your climate, soil type, and preferences.
\n\n\n\n![\"A](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_5840427371_ea66cae955_c.jpg\")
For colder climates or in transition zones, fine fescue is the most popular cool-season grass for a no-mow or low-mow lawn. A blend of fine and hard fescue, this grass type needs little maintenance and makes it easy to control weed growth.
\n\n\n\nFescue blends require little fertilizer or herbicides. The best part? With fine fescue, you’ll only have to mow your lawn once or twice a year. Fescues tend to perform better when you apply a lawn seed mix, allowing one to thrive if the other doesn’t.
\n\n\n\nNative to the Great Plains, from Montana to Mexico, Buffalograss is a low-growing, warm-season grass. It has individual leaf blades reaching 10 to 12 inches in length. However, the leaf blades fall over, giving it a short appearance.
\n\n\n\n![\"Zoysia](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_1024px-zoysia_tenuifolia_aspect.jpg\")
Zoysia tenuifolia only grows about 4 inches tall, making it a great no-mow option in hot and humid Southern states. It’s often called “petting grass” because of its fine blades and deep green color that form soft mounds.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are extremely versatile and grow in any climate, and each is unique in its growth pattern and color. Once you have a landscape design in mind, you’ll be better able to decide which ground cover is best for you. Most ground covers do best when planted in the spring.
\n\n\n\nGround covers are low-maintenance, but preparing the ground and planting them requires some work. You must eliminate all weeds before planting. Once the ground cover is established, add one to two inches of mulch to keep the soil moist and deter weeds.
\n\n\n\nSome popular ground covers are creeping Jenny, sedum, Asiatic Jasmine, creeping thyme, and moss.
\n\n\n\n![\"Artificial](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_wendy-aros-routman-omq9a7ayw98-unsplash.jpg\")
Schools, stadiums, and government agencies use artificial turf for a pristine look without the maintenance of a grass lawn. Artificial turf is the true definition of no-mow grass. It will never need mowing or fertilizing and can be installed anywhere. It will only need water if you’re cleaning it off or attempting to cool it down.
\n\n\n\nArtificial turf can be hot to the touch in the summer months. There has been a growing health concern about it due to granulated crumb rubber used as filler. The crumbs can be inhaled and are sometimes toxic.
\n\n\n\nIf you need an excuse to put away the mower, “No Mow May” provides it. It’s a month-long holiday to allow grass to grow, creating an inviting habitat for bees and other early-season pollinators. A conservationist group in the U.K. came up with the idea, and it’s growing faster than our lawns in the U.S.
\n\n\n\nThe biggest problem with this eco-friendly initiative is convincing cities and HOAs to relax their regulations for a month. Plant a no-mow grass, and the regulations and long grass fees are one less thing you’ll have to worry about.
\n\n\n\n1. Do I have to tear out my existing lawn and replace it to have a no-mow lawn?
\n\n\n\nYes. You’ll want to tear out your existing lawn before replacing it. Doing that will ensure you’re able to eliminate weeds for a fresh start.
\n\n\n\n2. When is the best time of year to replace my lawn with a no-mow variety?
\n\n\n\nSpring is the best time of year to plant most grass types, especially no-mow varieties. You won’t have to water as much, and planting in the spring allows roots to develop and grow deep into the soil before the first fall frost arrives.
\n\n\n\n3. Will a no-mow lawn be as attractive as a high-maintenance lawn?
\n\n\n\nA no-mow lawn is a different kind of attractive. It offers variety: You can have your traditional green look with a fescue blend, buffalo grass, Zoysia tenuifolia, or succulents or flowers with a ground cover.
\n\n\n\n4. Will no-mow grass types grow well in the shade?
\n\n\n\nChewings fescue, creeping red fescue, moss, and creeping thyme all grow well in the shade. Artificial turf will stay cooler in a shady area.
\n\n\n\n5. Are no-mow grasses good for sports fields?
\n\n\n\nArtificial turf is a good option for sports fields. However, some athletes prefer traditional grass because injuries are less severe, and synthetic turf temperatures can be much hotter. The commercial mix of no-mow grass tolerates a good amount of foot traffic.
\n\n\n\nOverseeding your lawn with no-mow grass seeds is an easy job for a DIY-er, but laying new sod may take a lot more time and expertise. We can help you to find a lawn care or landscaping pro near you.
\n\n\n\nMain photo credit: Pxhere
\n","title":"What is No-Mow Grass","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/1789c/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg","srcSet":"/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/107df/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg 320w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/293e9/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg 500w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/f2cbb/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg 800w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/1789c/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg 960w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/c26c2/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/1dd6e/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/67b76/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp 320w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/8df11/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp 500w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/98a65/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp 800w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/1dd6e/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp 960w,\n/static/9a37b9321e74014ab66917c50e48eba3/3cc96/rsz_work-grass-field-lawn-tool-summer-265026-pxherecom.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"What is No-Mow Grass | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"You’ll spend less time on lawn care and more time enjoying your yard with a no-mow grass. Your options depend on your climate, sun exposure, and soil type."}}},{"node":{"id":"f3cedee9-3f12-5780-b5e8-eb8974ca3926","slug":"diy-hydroseeding","path":"/blog/diy-hydroseeding/","status":"publish","template":"","format":"standard","author":{"description":"A writer by trade, Janine Caayao graduated from the University of the Philippines. She draws, plays video games, and snuggles with her cats during her free time.","name":"Janine Caayao","id":"eab2e0a9-2863-5dad-b98f-fe06c596c508","path":"/author/janine-caayao/","avatar_urls":{"wordpress_96":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4577dd58c063fcc8a254c30d035fc354?s=96&d=mm&r=g"}},"categories":[{"id":"c16818a6-3923-5fc7-a49b-191ac48bf4d2","name":"Blog","count":81,"path":"/category/blog/"},{"id":"205f24d4-c1e5-5728-bb28-8ba70eecbc7a","name":"Lawn Care","count":432,"path":"/category/lawn-care/"}],"date":"August 7th, 2023","excerpt":"Are you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY […]
\n","content":"\nAre you looking for a more efficient and cost-effective way to grow a new lawn? Hydroseeding is cheaper than laying sod and more convenient than hand-seeding; as a bonus, it grows faster, too! If you’re ready to get your hands a little dirty, you could hydroseed your own lawn instead of hiring a professional. DIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated. Let’s go over the steps.
\n\n\nAlso called hydraulic mulch seeding, hydroseeding is simply the process of seeding with a slurry mixture of seeds, water, mulch, and fertilizer. It has a slew of benefits, such as faster seed germination and a more uniform look.
\n\n\n\nThe slurry is sprayed with hydroseeding equipment or a pump. You can also buy a do-it-yourself hydroseeding kit that comes with the slurry ingredients and its own sprayer.
\n\n\nPhoto Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nYou need the following tools and materials for your hydroseeding project:
\n\n\n\n![\"Gardener](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/mulchy-copy-1.jpg\")
Photo Credit: artursfoto / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nThe very first step is planning out the specifics of your hydroseed slurry: the types of seeds you want to plant and the mulch that you’ll be using.
\n\n\n\nIt’s recommended to seed grass types that match your area’s climate: cool-season grasses for the North and warm-season grasses down South. With hydroseeding, you can plant multiple types of grass instead of just one. Some people blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue, for example.
\n\n\n\nThere are many types of mulch that homeowners can use in their hydroseed slurries. Each one has its own pros and cons. Here are some of these mulch types:
\n\n\n\nFinding out the condition of your soil before you plant new seeds is a good move; it will tell you if the soil needs any amendments to ensure the most optimal growing conditions for your new grass. A soil test — either from a lab or from a home testing kit — will tell you your soil’s pH level and what nutrients it has.
\n\n\n\nGrass grows best in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. You can add lime if your soil is too acidic; add sulfur if it’s too alkaline. Any number outside of this pH range can cause your grass to grow poorly or even die.
\n\n\n\nUsing the soil test results, you can also determine what fertilizer to add to your hydroseed slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNow it’s time to prepare your lawn for hydroseeding. The first step is clearing your lawn, as hydroseeding is most successful when applied to bare soil. Clear your lawn of existing grass (dead or alive), old plants, weeds, rocks, tools, toys, and other debris.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNext, you should mark any sprinkler heads around your lawn. This is especially important if you’re lugging around a heavy hydroseeding machine.
\n\n\n\nIf you don’t have a sprinkler system but want to install one, you should do it while you’re prepping your lawn and before spraying the slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"grading](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Grading-lawn.jpg\")
Photo Credit: JulNichols / Canva Pro / License
\n\n\n\nGrading the soil is simply the process of adjusting its slope to prevent rainwater and runoff from getting to your house and other structures. When grading soil, it also gets leveled.
\n\n\n\nTo prepare your lawn for hydroseeding, grade your soil 2 ½ to 3 inches below the final grade you want it to be. The final grade is how high you want your lawn to be. Afterward, fill in holes and level your lawn with a rake and/or a yard leveler.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe next step is adding your soil additives: topsoil, compost, and sulfur or lime (if needed). The first two components stimulate healthy grass growth mainly because they supply your growing grass with nutrients.
\n\n\n\nAdd enough topsoil and compost so that it adds about 3 inches to your lawn’s grade. Then, churn it into the existing soil.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nFinally, it’s time to re-grade and level your lawn to the final grade you want it to have. It’s now ready to be hydroseeded!
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDo you have a hydroseeder? Chances are that the average homeowner doesn’t have one. In that case, you have three options: renting a hydroseeder, making one yourself, or buying a hydroseeding kit in-store or online. Buying a hydroseeding kit is not a bad option if you need to seed a smaller area.
\n\n\n\nYou can rent a hydroseeding machine for covering large areas from equipment rental companies like United Rentals, Sunbelt Rentals, and MacAllister Rentals.
\n\n\n\nIf you’d rather make your own hydroseeder, this video tutorial will show you how:
\n\n\n\nOnce you have your hydroseeding equipment, it’s time to mix your slurry. If you have a DIY hydroseeding kit, you only need to read the instructions.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow much of each slurry component you need depends heavily on the size of the area you’ll be spraying. Typically, you’ll need 5 to 7 lbs of seed, 40 to 50 lbs of mulch, and 20 lbs of fertilizer for every 1,000 sq. ft. you’ll be hydroseeding. You’ll need enough water to fill your equipment about ¾ of the way. When in doubt, ask your materials supplier for guidance.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHydroseeding machines can vary in how they’re operated; always read the manual for specific instructions. However, you can expect this general process:
\n\n\n\nNow, it’s time to spray your lawn. It’s best to spray when it’s calm and cool outside, but it’s ok if it’s predicted to rain lightly that day. Wear your protective equipment before spraying, as you might be out in the sun for a while.
\n\n\n\nPlan your path ahead of time to prevent you from having to step on the areas you’ve just sprayed. Keep the nozzle at least 3 inches from the ground and spray slowly and evenly throughout your lawn.
\n\n\n\nYou might want to overlap your slurry a little bit while you spray. This ensures there aren’t any gaps that will result in bare patches later on. You can make this easier for yourself if you add lawn-friendly dye to your slurry.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"hydroseeded](\"https://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/84f6c9af-3c98-423b-98eb-fb3b0783d485.jpg\")
Photo Credit: Sue Thompson / Flickr / CC BY-ND 2.0
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCongratulations, you’ve now hydroseeded your lawn! However, this is only the beginning. You’ll need to maintain your new grass for it to grow into a healthy lawn.
\n\n\n\nHere are a few hydroseeded lawn maintenance tips:
\n\n\n\nJust like when you’re planting grass seeds the old-fashioned way, the best time to hydroseed is during your chosen grass type’s growing season.
\n\n\n\nFor Bermudagrass, Bahiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, you should hydroseed in late spring or early summer.
\n\n\n\nKentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses, and other cool-season grasses should be hydroseeded from late summer to early fall.
\n\n\n\nWhile you can hydroseed in the summer, it can be a bit more challenging as you must keep your new lawn moist for the first few weeks, and water tends to evaporate in the hot summer sun before it can soak into the soil and reach the grass’s roots.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you want to grow new grass in a larger area, then you should hydroseed. If you’re filling in bare patches, then it’s better to overseed the regular way. The hydroseed slurry can injure or kill your existing grass.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOn average, the cost of professional hydroseeding ranges from 8 to 20 cents per square foot. The rate will depend on many factors, including your lawn’s condition and how big it is.
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nDIY hydroseeding isn’t too complicated and can make for an interesting project to tackle. You could save money on labor, too. However, it can be more beneficial to hire a professional because they have the knowledge and the equipment to hydroseed your lawn already. Besides, a pro will usually be more successful at hydroseeding than the average homeowner.
Wikilawn can connect you with dependable lawn care pros that can hydroseed, fertilize, and mow your lawn for you. Hire a lawn maintenance pro near you today for a lush lawn without all the work.
\n\n\n\nMain Image Credit: BanksPhotos / Canva Pro / License
\n","title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps","featured_media":{"localFile":{"childImageSharp":{"fluid":{"aspectRatio":1.5,"src":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg","srcSet":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/107df/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/293e9/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/f2cbb/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1789c/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/c26c2/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.jpg 1200w","srcWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp","srcSetWebp":"/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/67b76/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 320w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/8df11/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 500w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/98a65/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 800w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/1dd6e/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 960w,\n/static/7fdd6619182dacdca0e5c8d06e7bb930/3cc96/Hydroseeding-lawn-1.webp 1200w","sizes":"(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px"}}}},"yoast_meta":{"yoast_wpseo_title":"DIY Hydroseeding: How to Hydroseed Your Own Lawn in 11 Steps | Wikilawn","yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Hydroseeding can give you the beautiful and lush lawn of your dreams. You can even do it yourself. Learn how with this DIY hydroseeding guide."}}}],"postCity":{}}}}![\"\"/](\"https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/22492C-6vC6pw5FZv27KHM9vvllX5M4PYCqzom3Yj1TFiZUkTSWBBl68x5kkO87QsNCIew2vgGczelJyrMRjQaWNDJhlfGI6C6_lEGPmp44ore9-Ym1u3jQUuZOQjOAQR0vnf5w5d-cIMwSaYA\")
![\"Buffalograss\"](\"http://wp.wikilawn.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/rsz_3125030368_e6ce260c77_c.jpg\")